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View Full Version : Can the heater hose be run through the engine block?



bcski175
07-30-2022, 01:35 PM
Can the heater hose run the engine block and be in between the engine block and the carb? Or is this too hot for the h5/8" heater hose.

170290

edwardb
07-30-2022, 04:16 PM
Kind of a judgment call. Probably would be OK. But I'd maybe avoid it. I suspect the heater hose itself could withstand the heat as long as it's not in direct contact with anything. But the hose itself gets quite hot when it's moving coolant.

Joel Hauser
07-30-2022, 05:59 PM
the 4.6L SOHC motor has a steel heater tube that runs under the front of the intake manifold and exits out the rear of the manifold. the rubber hose to the heater attaches at rear. you can see a picture of it here:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-engines/320058-broken-intake-manifold-inlet-hose-fitting.html

I'm sure you could fashion something out of steel pipe or tubing that works in your application.

Norm B
07-30-2022, 07:39 PM
Can the heater hose run the engine block and be in between the engine block and the carb? Or is this too hot for the h5/8" heater hose.

170290

Yes, without issue. The original 289 and 302 equipped ford cars ran the heater heater hoses this way and the supply hose actually clipped onto the electric choke. This let the choke know the engine was still warm after being shutdown for awhile. I ran mine as pictured. The aluminum block allows a small amount of coolant to circulate back to the return line so my temp gauge is accurate.

HTH

Norm

Derald Rice
07-30-2022, 08:47 PM
87-93 5.0 mustangs used metal tubes with rubber hoses at each end for both supply and return.

The metal hoses bolted to the top of the intake manifold, and ran between the passenger valve cover and the throttle body

They can be modified for carburetors. I have one on a 84 Mustang 302 with 600 DP carb (I had to eliminate one coolant nipple that was in the way and not needed).



https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9424BAK/mustang-50-resto-heater-tube-hose-kit-86-93

bcski175
07-30-2022, 11:14 PM
Yeah I think that'll be the best idea. I'd rather run it through the middle so the bay is less clustered. Thanks Joel

bcski175
07-30-2022, 11:16 PM
Your setup looks great! Is there any chance you have the measurement of the hole in the firewall for the heater cable? How far should it be from the heater housing? I guess it likely depends on the dash fitting but I don't plan to do that until next week.

Norm B
07-31-2022, 11:17 AM
Here's an old picture of the setup before I upgraded to the Sniper. I used polished aluminum tubes along the manifold. Had to change because I needed two accurate ECT sensor spots with the Sniper.

My recommendation for the heater control cable is to go straight out through the firewall behind your dash switch location and make any bends on the engine side of the firewall. The switch looks a little fragile and I don't think it would tolerate any extra force well.

HTH

Norm