Adjustable upper & lower links for 4-Link Suspension

[33fromSD]

Fine tuning my alignment and discovering no matter how I set the toe-in the car wants to track to the left which tells me the rear end is most likely not square however there is no way to adjust it since the upper & lower links that come with the kit are non-adjustable.

Has any found adjustable upper & lower links for the 4-Link suspension in the 33 HR? I tried the search feature and didn't find a lot. Sorry if there is a string out there discussing it and I missed it.

Jim

[TxMike64]

I believe you can use any foxbody adjustable control arms... UPR, MM, BMR... Look what LMR or CJPonyParts have. Another option is the Steinjager (https://steinjager.com/shop/1979-1998-Control-Arms-Rear-Upper-and-Lower-Double-Adjustable-Chrome-Moly-DOM-J0030515) arms. The downside is most adjustable links are going to have spherical or delrin bushings that, while good for performance, are terrible for a street car.

[33fromSD]

I believe you can use any foxbody adjustable control arms... UPR, MM, BMR... Look what LMR or CJPonyParts have. Another option is the Steinjager (https://steinjager.com/shop/1979-1998-Control-Arms-Rear-Upper-and-Lower-Double-Adjustable-Chrome-Moly-DOM-J0030515) arms. The downside is most adjustable links are going to have spherical or delrin bushings that, while good for performance, are terrible for a street car.

Ya, I thought about the downside of adjustable links too.

I'm going to get this thing up on the lift next week to change the rear differential cover anyway so once up on the lift I can measure how far off it is to see if it's even worth it.

Thanks for the info

Jim

[RoadRacer]

If you'd ever had a proper "laser" alignment you might see the rear specs that they measured. I had one done during go-kart stage and they gave me all sorts of data about the rear

[svassh]

I used these on my lowers on my Roadster and they are really well built and solid. I converted my uppers to 3 link which is another option you may consider.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/rod-end-rear-lower-control-arm-kit/

[GoDadGo]

For Lowers >>> Spohn Performance Has A Rugged Option:
https://www.spohn.net/shop/Factory-Five-Racing-MK3-MK4-Roadster/Adjustable-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-with-Del-Sphere-Pivot-Joints.html

For Four Link Uppers >>> QA1 Makes Some Really Nice Pieces
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-5255/make/ford/model/mustang

Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!

[RoadRacer]

I forgot to say, I bought some adjustable LCA from Gordon Levy and they also allow you to take out the "trapezoid" shape (you put the spacer on inside at one end, outside on the other).

[33fromSD]

If you'd ever had a proper "laser" alignment you might see the rear specs that they measured. I had one done during go-kart stage and they gave me all sorts of data about the rear


You're running 3-Link right James?

Jim

[RoadRacer]

You're running 3-Link right James?

Jim

Yes, 3link with vpm banana brace kit and levy LCA's

[33fromSD]

Here is an update. Turns out the rearend is square within a 1/32" so no adjustable UCA or LCAs are required.

I spend about 2 hours on this thing last night and after I measured and found out the rearend was square I went back to the front and got the car back up on my alignment plates. My alignment was off a bit with more caster on the drivers side which explains the pull to the left and the passenger side was slightly outside specs as well as my camber was way off on the passenger's side and slightly off on the driver's side

FFR's suggested specs w/ Manual Steering:
Camber = -.5*
Caster = +3.0 to 4.0*
Toe = Toe-in 1/16"


Measurements before readjusting:
Driver's Side:
Camber = -.3* (out of spec)
Caster = +3.15*
Toe = Toe-in 1/16"

Passenger Side:
Camber = -1.7* (out of spec)
Caster = +2.7* (out of spec)
Toe = Toe-in 1/16"

Measurements after readjusting:
Driver's Side:
Camber = -.5*
Caster = +3.65*
Toe = Toe-in 1/16"

Passenger Side:
Camber = -.5* (out of spec)
Caster = +3.7* (out of spec)
Toe = Toe-in 1/16"

The pull to the left is gone, if anything now there is a very gradual pull to the right but that is most likely a combination of the bigger 245/40R18s on the front and the crown in the new roads I was driving on. I need to tweak the steering wheel a bit (I'm a bit anal about straight steering wheels) but over all I'm pleased with the changes.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

I assume you don't mean total toe is 2/16"? If so, I'd move some out. I found about 30º turn of the steering arm adjusts 1/16", doesn't need much!

FWIW I run more camber (1.5º) and a little more caster (4.5º), but the biggest improvement in tramlining was when I added a lower heim join support on the last steering joint and tightened everything up.

[33fromSD]

I assume you don't mean total toe is 2/16"? If so, I'd move some out. I found about 30º turn of the steering arm adjusts 1/16", doesn't need much!

FWIW I run more camber (1.5º) and a little more caster (4.5º), but the biggest improvement in tramlining was when I added a lower heim join support on the last steering joint and tightened everything up.

Yes, total Toe-in is 1/16"

[wrp]

One of the vendors here sells an adjustable 4-Link kit with QA-1 double adjusted shocks. The advantage of the adjustable is it allows you to increase the wheelbase by 1-1.5 inches as well as giving you more control on the alignment process. I don’t argue that the kit isn’t overkill but I have had mine on for for years and enjoyed it immensely.


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[Just 1 More]

Ridetech "R" joints , You can special order lowers with the same "R" joints, so much smoother and better than the heims joints
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[cahlheim]

I know that this is a fairly old thread, but does anyone with a 4 link rear suspension and aftermarket upper & lower rear control arms have any issues with side-to-side play of the axle? Specifically upper/lower control arms with either the spherical rod end’s or similar (Spohn/Breeze/Levy/Steinjager)?

I have been doing a lot of reading and there seems to be a number of respected individuals that recommend against it since it allows for more movement in all directions, not just up and down. Looking to see what others that have actually done it have to say about it. I totally understand the theory, but interested in real world testimonials.

[Mastertech5]

I have a 4 link with adjustable uppers so I can adjust the pinion angle. They have spherical joints on the fronts and I put spherical joints instead of bushings on the diff. housing. I had a long talk with Mark Reynolds at Breeze Automotive about adding adjustable lowers that he sells. He highly advised against it. They are for 3 link only. You need the stability of the bushings on at least the lower arms for the triangulated 4 link to keep the differential from moving side to side. I haven't had any problems but I've only go-karted the car. It didn't seem squirrelly though. I asked him about adding a panhard bar to keep it straight but he said you would get too much bind in the suspension. Use silicone grease on the bushings. Regular grease will ruin them over time.

[Just 1 More]

I have a very similar 4 link set up on my 68 Camaro from Ridetech. It uses spherical style rod ends on all ends. I Auto-X it some and it handles way better than the drivers abilities. I have never noticed any side to side play.
My Hot Rod is still in the build stage but, For the '33 Hot Rod, I had Ridetech make me lower link bars with "R" joints and use their SN95 uppers aslo with "R" joints as well as BMR spherical bushings in the upper housing mounts. I have pushed, pulled and wiggled as hard as I can and I notice no side movement.
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[cahlheim]

I have a 4 link with adjustable uppers so I can adjust the pinion angle. They have spherical joints on the fronts and I put spherical joints instead of bushings on the diff. housing. I had a long talk with Mark Reynolds at Breeze Automotive about adding adjustable lowers that he sells. He highly advised against it. They are for 3 link only. You need the stability of the bushings on at least the lower arms for the triangulated 4 link to keep the differential from moving side to side. I haven't had any problems but I've only go-karted the car. It didn't seem squirrelly though. I asked him about adding a panhard bar to keep it straight but he said you would get too much bind in the suspension. Use silicone grease on the bushings. Regular grease will ruin them over time.

So your upper has spherical ends on both the frame and axle side? Would be curious how it handles when at its completed weight and with some reasonably spirited driving.



I have a very similar 4 link set up on my 68 Camaro from Ridetech. It uses spherical style rod ends on all ends. I Auto-X it some and it handles way better than the drivers abilities. I have never noticed any side to side play.
My Hot Rod is still in the build stage but, For the '33 Hot Rod, I had Ridetech make me lower link bars with "R" joints and use their SN95 uppers aslo with "R" joints as well as BMR spherical bushings in the upper housing mounts. I have pushed, pulled and wiggled as hard as I can and I notice no side movement.
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Doesn’t look like you have a panhard bar attached… very interesting. This is initially why I had asked the question. I have zero intention of drag racing or auto crossing the car, but I would like a better (good not great) handling car for street driving and I am really not interested in conversion to a true 3 link setup. As it stands now, handling is suspect to say the least.

[Mastertech5]

It's not complete or registered yet so I can't really say how it handles by just Go-Karting around my street some.