A Kennebunk Build: Painted and in Michigan!

[mmklaxer]

Hello All! I started an introduction thread in the general roadster section, but now that it's official, I'm kicking off my build thread.

Here's the plan:
Complete Kit
IRS
Coyote/TKX
Hydraulic Clutch
Power Steering
13" rear brakes
Powerstop front brakes
Wipers
Forgestar F14 satin black wheels 18x9, 18x11

I was unsure what to do about seats, but was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the vinyl seats. With that, I'm planning on rapper extreme for the dash to match the texture.

Living in Southern Maine, I made the trip to Wareham to pick up the kit. Everything BARELY fit in the Yukon and in the car. The pumpkin helped hold the windshield and gas tank in place for the trip back! If you haven't made it, absolutely worth the trip. Great people and great motivation every time I go and sit in the showcars.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/asset.php?fid=143294&uid=19862&d=1659009656

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/asset.php?fid=143293&uid=19862&d=1659009329

I completed the inventory this week and sent off my list of shortages. When i picked up my car, they said I was one of the first people to go through the "NEW" inventory sheet process. I have no comparison, as this is my first car. The inventory was pretty painless. Other than a couple nuts/bolts/washers, all was accounted for per the inventory by FF and the POL list. Only issue was I didn't receive 2 boxes of IRS parts and received an extra box of front spindles. Credit to FF, they're all over it and addressing the discrepancies.

Funny inventory story. So FF says this inventory process is much smoother than the last. I start with box #1. Item #1 on the page - 1/2 rollbar box. I look all over and cannot find 1/2 a rollbar. My confidence is a bit shaken given that i can't even find item 1 in box 1. quick email to FF clarified that 1/2 rollbar box is actually the box itself that it came in. ha! oh well!

With inventory complete, I removed the body and will start drilling some panels to get to powder coat. THIS IS AWESOME!!!

[mmklaxer]

OK, still working on photo inserting...

[John Ibele]

Congrats and welcome, Mike. I went back to your thread on the main forum just to see your 'hello' note ... looks like you've done plenty of reading and prep so you know what you're in for. I too have been new to every stage of the build, and while learning and doing things for the first time on your own build has its moments of frustration, its really a rewarding process overall. For what its worth in relation to your questions on brake lines and other items, I used the steel brake lines that came with the kit, figuring they're coated and not going to be very challenged by summer driving and winter storage in MN. But NiCop is a great choice and I could have easily one that route. I took the side pipes as part of the complete kit but they'll only get used for first start and go kart, unless my GasN pipes get here in time for that. I have the stock seats that came with the kit for now, but I too am constantly puzzling through alternatives, and at some point I'll try one out.

For me the most (and most rewarding) learning has been around how to fab metal vs. wood, which I had much more experience with. Its amazing how much you can get done with a few hand tools, plus a few key adds, plus some technique / practice.

Super exciting to actually have the kit in house - have fun. And good choice to do a build thread. You get free expert oversight and helpful commentary in case you've got anything wrong in your build. Cheers, John

[mmklaxer]

Working on the pedal box, and I found the two switches for the pedals themselves. I cannot find the switch that goes to the left of the clutch - the one that is depressed when the clutch pedal is engaged. Any idea which box that is found in? I searched the inventory sheets and cannot find it.

Side note, I’ve also found some discrepancies with the new inventory process. For example, there is no steering wheel listed on any inventory sheet. That one is fairly obvious, as I can’t sit in the seat and make VROOM VROOM noises. It could be that the clutch switch is another victim of the new inventory process growing pains….

[egchewy79]

Working on the pedal box, and I found the two switches for the pedals themselves. I cannot find the switch that goes to the left of the clutch - the one that is depressed when the clutch pedal is engaged. Any idea which box that is found in? I searched the inventory sheets and cannot find it.

Side note, I’ve also found some discrepancies with the new inventory process. For example, there is no steering wheel listed on any inventory sheet. That one is fairly obvious, as I can’t sit in the seat and make VROOM VROOM noises. It could be that the clutch switch is another victim of the new inventory process growing pains….

not sure what you mean...what do the 2 switches look like? they should be the same; black body w/ white plunger. One is your brake switch and the other is your clutch safetly switch. FYI, unless the manual has been updated, it shows the wrong wiring for the clutch switch. Needs to be reversed. I found this out when I noticed that I could start my car w/o the clutch depressed and couldn't start it when the clutch was depressed.

[mmklaxer]

not sure what you mean...what do the 2 switches look like? they should be the same; black body w/ white plunger. One is your brake switch and the other is your clutch safetly switch. FYI, unless the manual has been updated, it shows the wrong wiring for the clutch switch. Needs to be reversed. I found this out when I noticed that I could start my car w/o the clutch depressed and couldn't start it when the clutch was depressed.

Yes, both switches are the same black body with white plunger. I should have clarified that I'm using a coyote, and I thought I needed another switch on the outside of the pedal box. I have hardware to mount the other switch. The kit came with hardware as seen in the picture below.

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[smccoy]

Yes, both switches are the same black body with white plunger. I should have clarified that I'm using a coyote, and I thought I needed another switch on the outside of the pedal box. I have hardware to mount the other switch. The kit came with hardware as seen in the picture below.

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The clutch switch for the Coyote will come with the Coyote Controls Pack.

[mmklaxer]

The clutch switch for the Coyote will come with the Coyote Controls Pack.

OK great, thanks! Ordering the Coyote/TKX package from Forte later, so will look for it then.

[edwardb]

Yes, both switches are the same black body with white plunger. I should have clarified that I'm using a coyote, and I thought I needed another switch on the outside of the pedal box. I have hardware to mount the other switch. The kit came with hardware as seen in the picture below.

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With a Coyote setup, you only need one switch. The one that comes with the Coyote control pack and mounts up on top in those brackets you already have mounted. You don't use the lower plunger switch. Take it off. You also won't use the blue clutch wires from the Ron Francis harness. But that's not for a while yet.

[mmklaxer]

and "need" is a strong word.

In assembling the pedal box, I rattle can painted the switch mounts and the pedal box top support with self etching primer and black enamel.

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All in it took the better part of a day for it to dry. So the question is, what needs a protective covering to prevent rust/corrosion? For example, the front mounts for the body are certainly a carbon steel and would do well with some type of protection; however, the pedal box mounts look to be some kind of stainless. Is protection for those parts more belt/suspenders and/or personal preference?

I'm making a run to the powder coaters pretty soon with as many panels as I can and figured I would throw the steel in as well.

[mmklaxer]

With a Coyote setup, you only need one switch. The one that comes with the Coyote control pack and mounts up on top in those brackets you already have mounted. You don't use the lower plunger switch. Take it off. You also won't use the blue clutch wires from the Ron Francis harness. But that's not for a while yet.

Thanks Paul!

[Chopper]

All in it took the better part of a day for it to dry. So the question is, what needs a protective covering to prevent rust/corrosion? For example, the front mounts for the body are certainly a carbon steel and would do well with some type of protection; however, the pedal box mounts look to be some kind of stainless. Is protection for those parts more belt/suspenders and/or personal preference?

I'm making a run to the powder coaters pretty soon with as many panels as I can and figured I would throw the steel in as well.

I'm not sure about Wilwood pedal box mount, but in general most parts supplied directly by Factory Five are bare steel. These will develop a layer of surface rust very quickly if not coated or painted. For example, all of the parking brake parts except the handle shaft are bare steel. My preference would be to leave stainless parts bare if they are not seen, but perhaps others will confirm.

[JohnK]

Talk to your powder coater. Most have some sort of batch or set-up charge. The incremental cost of doing all the steel parts vs. just some of them is probably relatively small. I powder coated just about everything and am glad I did. There were some small brackets and whatnot that I made later on in the process. My power coater gave me a can of rattle can spray paint that matches my PC color, and I used that to paint a few small parts, and it matches exactly.

[mmklaxer]

Spent the day drilling as many panels as I could finish before getting tired/mentally not ready to think through the next 3-4 moves.

Completed the DS and PS footboxes, floor pans, F Panels. Cockpit rear sides are in position, but I called it quits before thinking through the rear trans tunnel covers and rear wall of the cockpit. The bends seemed not to line up perfectly, and I was hitting the point of making a mental mistake.

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My partner in crime came out to hang out at the end once all the heavy lifting was done....

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My oldest daughter of 3 (7,4,2) is very excited to help out. Once I get past the drilling and start hanging parts, she'll have a blast. She helped with some of the sub assemblies like installing the pedals.

I actually didn't mind the drilling. It was a good mix of planning though the layout, then head down and just making steady progress. Before I knew it, I had wrapped up the DS footbox and kept on trucking.

Will get the material over to the powder coater this week. I have most of the suspension components minus the Koni shocks and the flanged nuts to install UCAs and LCAs. Hopefully those arrive around the time the panels are done, so I can jump on that once the F Panels are installed.

[460.465USMC]

Fun stuff! I didn't mind the drilling either. With a sharp bit it went really well. If you're looking for a good source for Cobalt #10 and #30 drill bits, try Aircraft Spruce. They last a long time, and cheap shipping.

Good to have your partner-in-crime supervising--she'll keep you on the straight-and-narrow. :p

[mmklaxer]

All panels are drilled and off the frame. I just picked up the first batch of powder coated panels for the footboxes, F panels, and assorted steel bits. I'll have 1 more batch to send over there with a few more panels, breeze radiator shroud, breeze front battery box, etc. Then complete. No picture at this point as a frame is a frame is a frame...

I tried my hand at self etching primer and rattle can for a couple panels. The seat base bottoms (cant think of a better term for them, visual from underneath) and the rear cockpit wall as seen from the rear wheel well. It went OK and will not be a big visual eyesore compared to the powder coating. Obviously the powder coating looks amazing compared to the rattle can, mainly due to the etching process giving a texture, but it did save some money. Peanuts in the grand scheme of things, but I'm trying to be SOMEWHAT judicious in the overall cost. I tell my wife all the time - it's the $20 amazon "BUT IT NOW" expenses that destroy the monthly budget.

Powder coating was from Cobra Powder Coating in Lyman ME, for those of you in the area. Very happy with the product. I got the recommendation from Lidodrip here on the forum.

NEW Inventory Process

I was one of the first to go through the new inventory process; a few comments. I will start by saying FFR customer support is AMAZING and has been more than helpful throughout the process. My experience prior to this is only reading about the these builds on this forum

One of the changes FFR made (i assume) is to create "Fastener packs" which puts all the nuts/bolts/washers, etc in one box. BOX 1 on the inventory sheets included my "Fastener Pack, 1 EA". I checked it off my initial inventory and kept blazing through the other boxes. Each box includes some major components and the associated mounting hardware as appropriate. Here's where my challenge came in - My mistake is that i never OPENED the fastener pack. I just checked it off and kept going. So i got to the end of the inventory and found a couple discrepancies. Nothing too major, and FFR jumped right on it. Digging deeping as I starting planning the build, I realized I was missing (so I thought) a lot of nuts & bolts. Many emails back and forth with David Lindsey.

He keyed me into the fastener pack concept, and I opened the box to find a massive collection of bolts, nuts and whatnots needed for assembly. GREAT! This does, however, fly in the face of all the advice I have read on this forum about "Don't just put all the bolts on one big pile; keep it with the boxes they came in!" So now I have a box of bolts. Crap.

As I've been pouring over the manual made available at the time of purchase (rev 4V or something like that) most of the instructions say something along the line of "Install the UCA with associated hardware." Well in this new process there IS now associated hardware, so NOW what do i do? Pick the longest bolt? The strongest bolt?

A closer read of the PRINTED manual that came with the kit solved that problem. The latest version of the manual (Rev 5something) reads "Install the UCA with the 1/2"-20 1.75" bolt and lock nut" MUCH better instructions. Now I can filter through the parts to find the right fasteners to complete the task.

With all the above lessons learned (and changes from everything I've read here) I'm now ready to hit the ground running. Goal is to install the F panels, front suspension (a few backorder parts) and steering rack this weekend. Progress!!

[facultyofmusic]

Having inventory finally sorted out is a great feeling! Unfortunately the back ordered parts will always be somewhere in my head taking up space. haha. From your first post that you'll be running 18x9 in the front. Those are pretty big wheels and I wasn't able to find any mention of modified F panels to allow a wheel that big to turn lock to lock without rubbing. Here's a very recent thread talking about this exact issue: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?43628-Tire-hits-the-f-panel-when-turning-all-the-way

Just wanted to make sure you're aware of this potential clearance issue. Better now than later (or never)!

[Blitzboy54]

Love your wheel choice. Looking forward to seeing them on the car

[Chopper]

As I've been pouring over the manual made available at the time of purchase (rev 4V or something like that) most of the instructions say something along the line of "Install the UCA with associated hardware." Well in this new process there IS now associated hardware, so NOW what do i do? Pick the longest bolt? The strongest bolt?

I think that the fastener packs should have numbers on them, those should correspond to numbers on the inventory list. Sometimes the description on the list can be pretty brief, but after examining it a while there should be a hardware package number that goes with the control arm. Inventory is always a challenge, especially after one is build the car and occasionally a part is put here or there..."I swear it should be in this box....oh, it's on the tool chest..."

[mmklaxer]

Very productive day today! Finally getting cranking on this project.

Front suspension was first on the docket. Pretty straight forward, as the FFR build videos and the manual are pretty clear. It was a little tricky tightening the rear UCA bolt, as there was not enough room for my sockets or wrenches. I was able to wedge a screwdriver to prevent the nut from spinning and torqued it down. I still don't have the LCA lock nuts, so I'll have to circle back there once they come in. I left myself notes on what needs to be final torqued still.

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Next was the steering rack. I went with the Breeze offset bushings, and the instructions were spot on. I had to grind down the driver's side mount to make room to fit the rack in the mounting points, just like the instructions required. Once in, no interference between the rack and the frame. I don't have the tie rod ends, so I couldn't finalize the steering rack install. Notes left there as well.

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I preassembled the pedal box, and installed now that the panels are back from powder coat. For the time being I staggered the clutch pedal ~2" "higher" than the brake pedal, as per manual recommendation.

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I wrapped up today by installing the steering shaft. No issues there either. I was pleasantly surprised that the shaft fit with the bearing on the outside of the footbox. BARELY fit, but it fit. I followed edwardB's advice and bought slightly thicker spring washers for the upper steering shaft. Boy-o-boy is that shaft tight. It took quite a few taps with a hammer to get the shaft in the larger shaft. Getting the shaft apart should the need arise will be tricky...

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Back to the panels briefly - I went with Blackjack Satin powder coat from Cobra Powder Coating in Lymen, ME. They match the frame well, and look super sharp. Very impressed with how they turned out.

Speaking of panels, Any reason why I can't silicone/rivet the PS footbox at this point? I can't see why I would need to access that side for any reason. Plus I'll want them in position prior to running the fuel lines, so I know when I can turn vertical as I clear the footbox.

[460.465USMC]

I wrapped up today by installing the steering shaft. No issues there either. I was pleasantly surprised that the shaft fit with the bearing on the outside of the footbox. BARELY fit, but it fit. I followed edwardB's advice and bought slightly thicker spring washers for the upper steering shaft. Boy-o-boy is that shaft tight. It took quite a few taps with a hammer to get the shaft in the larger shaft. Getting the shaft apart should the need arise will be tricky...

Hi mmklaxer. It feels good to make some progress, doesn't it? Glad to read you found Edwardb. He's an indispensable source for a F5 build IMHO.

Regarding the tight steering shaft, just a note of caution in case you don't know. The upper shaft should slide into the mid-shaft fairly easily. Just a few light taps with a mallet at most. You will need to be able to adjust the steering wheel position (i.e. move forward or back depending upon what is comfortable to you) down the road in your build.

For example, I install the Russ Thompson turn signal setup, and needed to close a 3/4" gap between the hub and dash, i.e. push the upper shaft forward. In my setup even with the standard thickness wavy washer, it was like you described. So, I pulled it off and separated the upper shaft from the mid-shaft using a piece of rebar. Slid it in the bottom of the mid-shaft until it made contact with the upper, then a few good hits with a hammer and the upper shaft was freed. Once apart, I put some elbow grease into smoothing any burrs, and added a light coat of grease. This helped them slide together MUCH easier. The two sets of set screws with keep the shaft from sliding fore and aft, so no need to have the shaft super tight.

I don't recall the F5 manual making this aspect very clear--maybe I just missed it. Anyway, just some food for thought.

[mmklaxer]

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to head that route once the steering wheel arrives. I'll circle back to the shaft at that point using the steering wheel to center the rack, set the shafts so center has the steering wheel in the correct orientation, then disassemble/deburr/grease/ etc.

[egchewy79]

putting that steering bushing on the inside of the firewall will make it easier to remove/service the lower steering shaft in the future. You'll need to cut a bit off the top of the flange to clear the pedal box assembly, but easy enough to do.
in terms of your PS footbox, you can likely go ahead and rivet it in place. Do yourself a favor and make some cardboard templates of the walls/floors. If you plan on doing any adhesive soundproofing, the templates make it much easier to cut your pieces. You could also use the carpet pieces as a template, but I went ahead and traced onto pieces of cardboard at this stage.

[Lidodrip]

putting that steering bushing on the inside of the firewall will make it easier to remove/service the lower steering shaft in the future. You'll need to cut a bit off the top of the flange to clear the pedal box assembly, but easy enough to do.
in terms of your PS footbox, you can likely go ahead and rivet it in place. Do yourself a favor and make some cardboard templates of the walls/floors. If you plan on doing any adhesive soundproofing, the templates make it much easier to cut your pieces. You could also use the carpet pieces as a template, but I went ahead and traced onto pieces of cardboard at this stage.

I would echo those comments about the steering bushing. I had to unexpectedly replace a bad power steering rack (FFR was great about sending me a new rack BTW) and I appreciated having the bushing on the inside of the firewall.

[mmklaxer]

Thanks both. I'll put that on my "Steering shaft redo list!"

[mmklaxer]

I would echo those comments about the steering bushing. I had to unexpectedly replace a bad power steering rack (FFR was great about sending me a new rack BTW) and I appreciated having the bushing on the inside of the firewall.

I was surprised when I could get it all to fit together; I thought I had read that it WOULDN'T fit. Not that it will fit, but minimal wiggle room for downstream maintenance. Easy enough to flip it now...

[rhk118]

Great progress! I also used Cobra Powder Coating and they do a fantastic job. On the steering shaft I had the same problem on my Coupe. Mine was out of square, and took about 45 minutes of die grinding with an abrasive pad to get it to fit into the D sleeve (not talking about the flange bearing here). Would just do a little and test fit as obviously still wanted a snug fit and nothing loose, but had to mallet mine together initially and it just didn’t seem right, now it slides as it should, but still snug.

[mmklaxer]

I now have the necessary hardware to install the rear pumpkin and all IRS components minus the CV Axles. I'd like to hang that as far as I can to really start to clear out some boxes. My fuel filter is also arriving shortly, so I can run the fuel lines from the gas tank all the way to the regulator. So the question is: what do I want to do prior to installing the IRS & Gas tank to avoid (as best I can) installing and removing the tank multiple times. Here's my thought:

1. Rear quick jack coupler mod - done
2. Run rear brake lines (enough great threads out there to be confident in that prior to having suspension in)
3. Fuel filter and lines forward
4. pumpkin
5. IRS components
6. Fuel Tank

Is there anything else worth doing in advance? The harness seems easy enough to drape over the tank en route to its final location. Can't see anything else that would be easier with the big parts off the car.

Another random question - do the Rear IRS axle nuts come with the CV Axles? I don't see them listed on my inventory sheets (lots of activity on that front recently) but assume the axles come with nuts and dust covers.

[edwardb]

I now have the necessary hardware to install the rear pumpkin and all IRS components minus the CV Axles. I'd like to hang that as far as I can to really start to clear out some boxes. My fuel filter is also arriving shortly, so I can run the fuel lines from the gas tank all the way to the regulator. So the question is: what do I want to do prior to installing the IRS & Gas tank to avoid (as best I can) installing and removing the tank multiple times. Here's my thought:

1. Rear quick jack coupler mod - done
2. Run rear brake lines (enough great threads out there to be confident in that prior to having suspension in)
3. Fuel filter and lines forward
4. pumpkin
5. IRS components
6. Fuel Tank

Is there anything else worth doing in advance? The harness seems easy enough to drape over the tank en route to its final location. Can't see anything else that would be easier with the big parts off the car.

Another random question - do the Rear IRS axle nuts come with the CV Axles? I don't see them listed on my inventory sheets (lots of activity on that front recently) but assume the axles come with nuts and dust covers.

I install the IRS center section and balance of components first. Also at least mock up the fuel tank location. Since that stuff is fixed with no options to move. Then fit around that, e.g. brake lines, fuel lines, etc. The IRS stuff doesn't get in the way. You'll also want the fuel tank positioned so you can see where the harnesses go for that. Easy if you don't have the trunk aluminum installed yet.

Sorry, don't remember if the IRS nuts come with the axles or are separate. But no dust covers on the rear. Just the front.

[mmklaxer]

I install the IRS center section and balance of components first. Also at least mock up the fuel tank location. Since that stuff is fixed with no options to move. Then fit around that, e.g. brake lines, fuel lines, etc. The IRS stuff doesn't get in the way. You'll also want the fuel tank positioned so you can see where the harnesses go for that. Easy if you don't have the trunk aluminum installed yet.

Sorry, don't remember if the IRS nuts come with the axles or are separate. But no dust covers on the rear. Just the front.

Thanks as always!

[Railroad]

I mounted my fuel filter, where it was accessible with tire removed. Anywhere is fine, just think what will be involved if you need to replace it, ie hose clamps or quick disconnects accessible.
The front 2 gas tank strap bolts are a little aggravating to hold the nut and start the bolt. They are even worse if you have to take them loose. I used 2 fender nuts that clip on and require no other work to install the bolts.
I did have to grind the nose of the clips a little to get them to fit on the shelf.
Here is a link to show what I am discussing. You can get them at Auto Zone, Ace, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Motive-Fender-Bolts-Chrysler-Plymouth/dp/B07GNFC7CB
good luck,

[mmklaxer]

I had to step away from the build for a few weeks to help the MRS open her shop and the demo/reno the kitchen. Got all that to the point where I'm waiting on counter tops, so I had a chance to spend some time in the garage this weekend. Woohoo!

A fellow automotive enthusiast/former colleague came over to help with the IRS center section install and stuck around for the rest of the control arms. All went relatively smoothly. The pumpkin went in without too much drama. Put in the rear bolts, got 1 front bolt in but couldn't seat the other, backed out the rear bolts, got the fronts halfway installed, reinstalled the rears, tightened all. Given the stories I've read, I'll call it a success.
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Next were the control arms. All went together without drama except the toe arms. You can see them dangling in the below photo. If you look closely, they are missing 1 set of jam nuts. During the bench assembly of the toe arms, I couldn't get the jam nuts to thread onto the heim joint. After numerous attempts on both toe arms, I removed the joint that installs in the arm itself to confirm that both jam nuts were left hand thread instead of one right one left. the one onto the heim joint seems to require a right hand thread. I checked the inventory sheet, and it specifically calls out left hand thread jam nut. huh. well that won't work at all. Will need to pick up some right hand jam nuts and get them hooked up for good.
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I still have to connect the the ends of everything, but all in time. First I need to install the hub studs, then hub to knuckle, then it all goes together.

I received my front Koni shocks, so I could mostly wrap up the front suspension and mount the front brakes. I'm going with the kit included front brakes, but upgraded to the powerstop rotors/pads (thanks Fman!). Painted them with VHT Caliper Paint and baked them prior to install.
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I also installed the brake reservoirs. I had planned on going with a triple reservoir, but seeing the quality of the kit parts, I decided to go with them. Following the manual on splitting the brake reservoir for both front and rear brakes.
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Finally, wrapping up the brakes I installed the SS flex lines to the calipers. Read the instructions multiple times, read the posts here about the banjo bolts, and decided to follow the instructions exactly. Sure as heck, snapped the first banjo bolt before reaching 29 ft lbs torque. in examining the carnage, the crush washers had a good "crush" to them, but the bolt failed well before achieving torque. I double checked the torque wrench a few times before wrenching on it - I also started it off at 17 ft lbs - it failed before even reaching THAT torque. huh. For the other front branke, I eased up quite a bit on the effort and plan to just snug it up as necessary once I bleed the brakes to ensure it isn't leaking.
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Other than that setback, a very productive weekend! Oh, I also built the gas tank on the bench. Installed the Breeze 255lph in tank pump and fuel return kit. Said a bunch of curse words installing the pump as the sock wanted to keep falling off, but eventually got it to stay by tightening the metal fingers holding it in place.

[egchewy79]

I too had to adjust the metal clip holding the sock on my pump hanger b/c it kept popping off once I got it inside the sump.
you might not be able to get a few rivets in the front wall of your footbox with that reservoir being so close. I know from experience.

[mmklaxer]

I met up with a friend to drive in the rear hub studs, so the hub was ready to go on the knuckle, then knuckle onto rear control arms. All went together relatively smoothly. Torquing the hub to knuckle with a torque wrench instead of an impact driver got creative trying to hold everything from moving, but got the job done.
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With that wrapped up, I hung the gas tank and started running brake lines. Fronts are complete, rears complete minus the section of brake line running from the master cylinder to the rear. I'm using the kit supplied lines because 1. i paid for them, 2. it's only 1 additional union from running complete lines, 3. the car will see significantly less rain and junk than my other cars and those don't have brake lines falling off every time i look.
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Finally my steering wheel showed up, so I was able to install it and center the rack/shaft, etc so that the steering wheel is oriented properly when the rack is centered. I guessed wrong and set it up with the flats on the steering shaft up and down. When the steering wheel is installed and centered, the flats on the upper steering shaft are left and right, just in case anyone else is waiting on the wheel for a while.
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One minor lesson learned: Practice new skills on scrap material! I went to tap set screws into the 1" steering shaft - 8-32 screws. Google says I should use a #29 drill bit, but I didn't HAVE a #29. in my haste, I said "30 is pretty close, just 1 size off..." First hole was OK, but seemed to be a bit loose for the first thread or two. I had a hard time getting the tap to bite and start working in. The second hole, I thought I could fix that by applying more pressure on the tap to keep it from moving around while finding it's home. Both times I turned about 1/2 turn and backed off to give the chips a chance to break up. Well once the tip of the tap was into the void inside the steering shaft, it snapped off. Tried all the extraction methods I could find online to no avail. So now I have a shaft that looks nice and boogered up (even though no one would se it but me) but more impartantly I can't get the upper shaft into it. I'm writing this one up as "lesson learned" and ordering a new shaft. Not too expensive a lesson, plus I can practice on the one I have before the final exam. Oh, and I ordered the right drill bit/tap combo......

All in all a good day yesterday! I should have my last few pieces back from powder coat this week. Then I can wrap up the e-brake, front battery box, and start running the controls pack for the Coyote.

[mmklaxer]

I'm slowly making headway on a few fronts. Brake system is complete - installed the 13" rear rotors and ran the brake lines up to the front. Nothing overly wild there. Looking to source a pressure bleeder to aid in bleeding the brakes, then that system is checked off the list. Only thing I found odd is the 13" brake pads have a spring retention clip that rubs on the rough cast surface of the caliper in the middle (i don't have a great picture of it). anti-chatter clips only for the pad ends. Seems like that would induce hang up, but I'm likely overthinking it.
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Also in this picture you can see what I did for the large panels. the cockpit rear and floor pans received self etching primer and rattle can black where visible from the wheel well (and under the car for the floor pans). Saved a bunch on powder coating the largest pieces. with the wheel on and car on the ground, it won't be noticeable, and certainly less noticeable than shiny silver. ANyways, this was my solution. After spray painting those couple panels, I would not sign up to paint all the panels on a car...

Buttoned up the inside DS footbox and mounted the Coyote CPU. Mounted it where the panel fit best, which was slightly forward of where the manual states, but the contours of the panel fit better at the vertical post. Checked that this is further back than the reservoirs, so shouldn't be an issue with the hood hinge. If some other interference will pop up, please chime in!
173891

With the brake lines done, mounted the DS floor pan and rear transmission tunnel covers. I was waiting until the brakes were done, but then realized I didn't take advantage of the panel being out when running the lines. Consequently I installed the PS floor pan as well since I'll run the fuel lines the same way - laying on the ground to route the lines and drill...
173892

Before installing the PS floor, I sorted out the e-brake handle. I got it working before removing the panel in prep for lizard skin, but you can see here my take on the ebrake mod. Like others here, I found that the lokar clevis kit is no longer for sale. went to Ace, Home DEpot, Amazon looking for a comparable clevis with no luck. Oddly difficult to find something that would work, but then maybe it was my search. Either way, I ended up going with a 5/16 female rod end and a section of threaded rod that runs right into the lokar S-8070 wire clamp. glides under the carriage bolt head nicely, no binding.
173893

Up next is the PDB wiring and fuel lines. My fuel filter has been on backorder for quite some time, with current ship date of 10/25. Hoping to install weekend of Halloween. In the meantime I've gotten lots of good advice on what to do for the regulator (thanks Paul). Panicked there for a second as I misread his help and thought he was saying I bought the wrong regulator. Rather he was proposing an alternative solution for a fixed regulator that might fit better.

[KDubU]

Looking good! Let me know if you need a hand or two one a major building task as I just moved back to Kennebunkport so not far away.

[edwardb]

Up next is the PDB wiring and fuel lines. My fuel filter has been on backorder for quite some time, with current ship date of 10/25. Hoping to install weekend of Halloween. In the meantime I've gotten lots of good advice on what to do for the regulator (thanks Paul). Panicked there for a second as I misread his help and thought he was saying I bought the wrong regulator. Rather he was proposing an alternative solution for a fixed regulator that might fit better.

Either a typo or I'm just not explaining myself very well. I didn't suggest replacing the adjustable regulator you currently have. Only that another possible location is back by the tank. As many have done with the fixed regulator. Makes for a short return line and a single feed line to the front. That's what I did on my truck build and so far works fine. This is from the truck build. Didn't have the gauge on it at the time, but you get the idea. Yes, you have to crawl under there to adjust. Which for some will be a non-starter. But my experience is once set it doesn't need to be changed. My Coupe just finished it's third driving season and haven't touched the adjustable regulator since it was set.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_2555.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_2555.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_2562.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_2562.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

[mmklaxer]

Ahhhhh. That's misunderstanding is totally on me. really appreciate your input (and patience).

[mmklaxer]

Looking good! Let me know if you need a hand or two one a major building task as I just moved back to Kennebunkport so not far away.

Great to have you back! Absolutely I'd appreciate a second set of hands for the big tasks as well as maybe a second set of eyes as a sanity check. Will send a PM.

[mmklaxer]

After much debate I landed on the "standard" firewall location for the fuel pressure regulator. Installed it and ran the return line back to the tank. I'm going with Fragola PTFE lines the entire way. Weighed the pros and cons of tubing vs braided stainless and decided on this route. I'm still waiting on the fuel filter from summit. After numerous pushouts on the trick flow canister filter, I cancelled the order and ordered the Aeromotive version. already shipped!
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Also in the above photo I moved the final hose clamp from the horizontal trunk member to the diagonal one closer the the wheel well for maintenance and dropping of the trunk should that need to happen. The horizontal 1x1 tube was convenient to reach without the trunk aluminum installed but would be a nightmare later on if the hose routed up and over that.

In the photo above and the one below, you can see I ran the rear harness down the tunnel and to the rough locations for the rear electrical connections. I still have to clamp into place.
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I am about to install the trunk aluminum floor panels. Prior to that I want to secure the rear harness, fill the pumpkin with appropriate fluids, and finalize the fuel lines. Anything else I should do while it's relatively exposed back there?

[Lidodrip]

I used the Aeromotive fuel filter (12308) - nicely made and works well for the roadster.

James

[mmklaxer]

I've been checking off a bunch of minor items getting ready for lizard skin installation.

Fuel lines are all buttoned up. Aeromotive fuel filter installed; nice piece. As mentioned before, ran Fragola PTFE braided stainless the entire run from tank to regulator. a 20' roll of hose was just enough to complete the task, leaving enough to eventually run from the regulator to the motor.
174871

Filled the rear end with gear oil and friction modifier. I used a funnel and flex hose to route from the trunk area down to the pumpkin. Added a quart of gear oil, then the modifier (you ain't kidding that stuff stinks), then the remaining ~1/2 quart. There must have been some residual oil in the rear, as the oil spilled out earlier than i expected. Made a bit of a mess, as I didn't have a catch basin under the rear at the time. Bonehead move. Either way, it's full. After that, I installed the trunk aluminum. I hemmed and hawed on a drop trunk mod, but elected to go stock. Agree it's not much space, but that's what I have the SUV for. To each their own!
174874

Installed the Cobraheat seat heaters in the seats and ran the cables along the tranny tunnel corner to be buried under the lizard skin. I'm putting the switches in the tranny tunnel top, so that cable ran into the tunnel and along the two sides clamped in place. The remaining connections will be under the seat, leaving only the 2 wires running to the fuse panel. As I'm not running a heater, I will use that circuit. I used the aerosol can of weldwood landau contact cement, thinking 1 can would be enough for both seats and the dash. Wrong answer. 1 can completed 1 seat and installed the pads in the other seat. Ordered another can for the seat cover and the dash. Lesson learned - should have gone with the gallon. I liked the idea of spraying vs painting it on. oh well.
174876

Messed around with the cooling system. Installed the breeze radiator shroud and fan, then put that aside for the time being. I'll complete that system once the engine is in, as I understand I need the radiator out to drop the engine in. I also installed the kit provided overflow tank. Nice piece, matches the kit provided clutch and brake reservoirs. Question for the group: LOTS if not all builds here seem to go with a coolant setup that more closely mimics the OEM overflow set up. Is there anything of concern with following the build manual for this part of the build?
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Oh, put the battery box/battery in, so I can start running power lines.

At this point I'm about ready to start masking and spraying lizard skin. I'm planning to do that before running any electrical and drilling any holes in the firewall.

[460.465USMC]

My understanding is the stock setup will work fine as shown in the instructions. I've seen several builds go stock.

I liked the idea of the closed loop design by Ford, eliminating the issue of getting all of the air out. The icing on the cake for me is the Moroso aluminum tank added a little bling to my otherwise plain engine bay. I had zero issue with trapped air in filling my system. Unfortunately, I have to swap out the radiator (warranty) due to a leak, so will benefit twice from going with the Ford design. It certainly added cost (about $500 total for tank and hoses--plastic tank would be cheaper) and not a little extra time to make the tank supports. My suggestion is to proceed with the Ford design only if you really prefer it over the F5 stock design.

[mmklaxer]

Wheels showed up this week! Forgestar F14s satin black. 18x9, 18x11 with the same backspacing as the FF Halibrands. They look fantastic!

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I also received my Motive pressure bleeder, so I'll start bleeding the brakes over thanksgiving

[KDubU]

Nice wheels!

[460.465USMC]

Those wheels look gooooood! Very nice.

[rhk118]

Wheels showed up this week! Forgestar F14s satin black. 18x9, 18x11 with the same backspacing as the FF Halibrands. They look fantastic!

175203175204175205

I also received my Motive pressure bleeder, so I'll start bleeding the brakes over thanksgiving

Gorgeous! You know what type/size tires you'll be running here in New England?

[mmklaxer]

Gorgeous! You know what type/size tires you'll be running here in New England?

My brother sent this article as a good read on tires:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/track-tire-buyers-guide/

A couple of these tires do talk about first lap or cold temp performance. Realistically speaking, as the weather starts to drop control will be provided by the right foot from what I gather.

Either way, I'm thinking either the G-force Rival S 1.5 (currently out of stock) or the continental extremecontact Force. The NT01s are going to be a bit tacky for my driving that will likely be highway, town, and some autocross. A few track days, but likely not pushing it to the point of risking complete distruction. Maybe all that will change once I'm on the road....

[rhk118]

Great link, thanks! Agree with your assessments as well.

[mmklaxer]

Not much progress the last few weeks as I had gotten myself to the point where I needed to lay down the lizard skin prior to cluttering up the dash area with wires.

My experience was much like everyone else's, and there are some great posts out there that explain the process. Won't go too far down that road. Just follow the instructions and it goes fine. A couple bumps i ran into:

- I couldn't find a rental place around that had air compressors to rent. I have a pancake compressor that didn't meet the CFM requirements - it's only 2.6 CFM at 90 PSI. Those numbers are inversely proportional, so I thought to myself "This'll be fine, I'm running at a lower PSI, should drive the CFM higher. Plus I'd just take more breaks. Generally speaking it worked OK. I definitely had to stop frequently, and I struggled to get a "softball" sized pattern per the instructions. More like a small baseball. Still worked out alright, just way more back and forths. I didn't run into any issue with premature drying or anything like that. Sound Control was not a problem, but Ceramic Insulation was more problematic.

- I caulked the seams like most do, but "smudged" the caulk vs letting it cure can cutting it out. I would absolutely let it cure and cut it in areas where lizard skin is applied. I do NOT recommend that on inside corners in the engine bay on powder coat panels. It's really hard to get a razor in there to trim it out. Lots of elbow grease with denatured alcohol. In prep i asked you smart folks what to do, as well as called Lizard Skin. The answer from Lizard Skin was to sand and prime with a self etching primer.
Where I put a lot of focus, areas like the 4" round tubes, it worked out great. A couple areas like the firewall extension I didn't notice the caulk and didn't properly prep the area. The first coat of sound control didn't adhere to those areas. I peeled it off to the point of good adhesion, sanded, primed, and sprayed the second coat of sound and 2 coats of ceramic. All good after that.
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Here's the 4" tube (last coat of ceramic still drying). no pull away of the coating.
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I pulled the tape before everything completely dried, and it's still a bit wet in these pictures.
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I'll let this cure for a bit, and then it's time to start wiring. NOT looking forward to the next step. But 1 step at a time...

[toadster]

Not much progress the last few weeks as I had gotten myself to the point where I needed to lay down the lizard skin prior to cluttering up the dash area with wires.

My experience was much like everyone else's, and there are some great posts out there that explain the process. Won't go too far down that road. Just follow the instructions and it goes fine. A couple bumps i ran into:

- I couldn't find a rental place around that had air compressors to rent. I have a pancake compressor that didn't meet the CFM requirements - it's only 2.6 CFM at 90 PSI. Those numbers are inversely proportional, so I thought to myself "This'll be fine, I'm running at a lower PSI, should drive the CFM higher. Plus I'd just take more breaks. Generally speaking it worked OK. I definitely had to stop frequently, and I struggled to get a "softball" sized pattern per the instructions. More like a small baseball. Still worked out alright, just way more back and forths. I didn't run into any issue with premature drying or anything like that. Sound Control was not a problem, but Ceramic Insulation was more problematic.

- I caulked the seams like most do, but "smudged" the caulk vs letting it cure can cutting it out. I would absolutely let it cure and cut it in areas where lizard skin is applied. I do NOT recommend that on inside corners in the engine bay on powder coat panels. It's really hard to get a razor in there to trim it out. Lots of elbow grease with denatured alcohol. In prep i asked you smart folks what to do, as well as called Lizard Skin. The answer from Lizard Skin was to sand and prime with a self etching primer.
Where I put a lot of focus, areas like the 4" round tubes, it worked out great. A couple areas like the firewall extension I didn't notice the caulk and didn't properly prep the area. The first coat of sound control didn't adhere to those areas. I peeled it off to the point of good adhesion, sanded, primed, and sprayed the second coat of sound and 2 coats of ceramic. All good after that.
176389176390

Here's the 4" tube (last coat of ceramic still drying). no pull away of the coating.
176391

I pulled the tape before everything completely dried, and it's still a bit wet in these pictures.
176394176395

I'll let this cure for a bit, and then it's time to start wiring. NOT looking forward to the next step. But 1 step at a time...

fantastic job! that's pro quality right there! keep it up!

[mmklaxer]

I'm just starting to run the various harnesses, starting with the coyote controls pack harness. The wires running into the cockpit to the accelerator pedal and clutch pedal, the MAS harness leg, etc are all very long, and the convolute structure isn't ideal for our set up

For those of you that go through a "wire diet" process, does that involve merely rerouting the wires within the convolute to avoid zigzagging through the footbox, or do you actually shorten the wires?

I'm mainly asking as I'm not sure how I feel about having a bunch of butt connectors on each of the harness legs. I also don't want to get too far into wiring only to realize i ran out of room and need to rerun all of the harnesses.

I'll be scouring the build threads here, but just in case anyone has some sage advice in advance....

Thanks!

[JohnK]

Personally, I try to avoid butt connectors wherever possible. For the coyote harness, if I wasn't changing the terminations I didn't cut the harness. The only leg I cut was the MIL, since I went with a different LED in my dash. I just stripped all the convolute off of pretty much the entire harness, rerouted things where I needed them, and then rewrapped the harness. I picked up a couple of rolls of non-adhesive vinyl harness tape (https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Electrical-Adhesive-Harness-Friction/dp/B06Y2KDQRN) and was able to re-wrap the harness to look exactly as it came from Ford.

[mmklaxer]

Personally, I try to avoid butt connectors wherever possible. For the coyote harness, if I wasn't changing the terminations I didn't cut the harness. The only leg I cut was the MIL, since I went with a different LED in my dash. I just stripped all the convolute off of pretty much the entire harness, rerouted things where I needed them, and then rewrapped the harness. I picked up a couple of rolls of non-adhesive vinyl harness tape (https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Electrical-Adhesive-Harness-Friction/dp/B06Y2KDQRN) and was able to re-wrap the harness to look exactly as it came from Ford.

Thanks John. Good to hear. Like putting junction boxes all over your house, butt connectors feels like that many more gremlins to potentially chase later.

[edwardb]

My response is very similar to JohnK's. I don't try to adjust the length of the large harnesses that go into the PCM. I take their length into account when placing components, e.g. PCM and PDB, to try to keep things as neat and direct as possible. Also have been known to unwrap and rewrap as described. For the smaller harness legs, like sensors, MIL, bulkhead connector, etc., have adjusted their length as necessary. I'm also not a fan of the butt connectors included in the kit. Don't use them.

[Gizmosrcool]

yeah 1-2 butt connectors in an entire project is not likely bad. But a lot to shorten and diet is probably not a good idea for the long run. Increases the likelyhood of a short and possible fire. Shortening is not a bad idea as long as you use the orginal connector. It would require a few extra crimp tools and connector styles. You can get some nice cloth tape, or any type of wire loom, and rewrape your wires, and it should come out pretty nice.

[mmklaxer]

Thanks all! this all makes sense and lines up with my original plan. ordered some non-adhesive tape and will get after it soon

[mmklaxer]

When I started this journey, I was really looking forward to the big pieces (suspension, steering system, etc.) Big progress in short times. And i thoroughly enjoyed those parts of the build. But largely they are self explanatory - comprehensive instructions. Install part 12345, torque to X ftlbs, etc. done and done.

I was dreading the wiring having never done it and reading posts here about the pain and agony. I've found I actually enjoy it! For starters, I'm not as familiar with DC systems, so it was a bit different than wiring a house, plus all new processes. Soldering and shrink wrap replace wire nuts and the like. I've found it to be more cerebral than the rest of the car to date. I'm also dreading carpet, but cross that bridge when I get to it. All that being said....

I have most of the chassis harness complete and the controls pack portion that belongs behind the dash. I ended up leaving many of the harness arms full length instead of getting too deep into dieting as a novice. As I'm not straying too far from the base setup, I think I'll have plenty of room to fit everything behind the dash, as seen below in partial progress:
178679

In the above picture you can see where I mounted the Inertia switch. without lengthening the wires, the run if wire gets me to that location, which I can still reach up and reset based on where I'm putting undermount support panels. To the immediate right of the inertia switch I'm planning to install the ididit relay to go with the RT turn signal. Much like many others I plan to use the button on the end of the stalk for high/low and flash to pass headlight functionality. Wires on the relay and the RT set up should reach fine at that location.

To the right of the ididit relay I'll install a bus bar for the power wires. Power to the bus bar will come off the master disconnect. Then power will run to the starter leg of the chassis harness and another power wire will run to the alternator. That enables me to eliminate completely the starter and alternator legs of the chassis harness. For the Gen3 Coyote, the alternator control comes from the controls pack in the engine bay; same for the starter control.

I installed a center dash support cut from the transmission tunnel. The sides give a little vertical support. On the center dash support I have installed the headlight switch (because I find it to be a bit big/ugly), the wiper switch (don't plan to need it all that often) and a USB charger powered off the Radio wire (the ACC one, not the memory HAAT wire). Putting those below should clean up the visible dash.
178680

On to the dash. Pre hung the dash and tried moving it up, down, etc. Here's where I landed. I'm 1/4 below the top of the dash tubing in the middle, 3/16 above on the driver's side and 1/8 above on the PS. That makes the dash level with the car and provides enough room to install the speedometer without running into the bottom of the dash tube with the screw on attachment. Any higher and I would run into an interference installing the gauges.
178681

The dash will be fairly simple. Left to right: horn, ignition, hazard switch. MIL and high beam indicators above the steering wheel (need to dig into that). Seat heater controls will be on the tranny tunnel cover. That's about it from what I can think I need to have. Plus an Oh Sh!t handle on the PS.

So 2 dash questions:

1: Searched high and low on how to bend the dash ends. Don't want to overthink it, but is there a best practice? Only thing I could find was "bend it around a paint can" That tells me 2 things: 1. approximate radius and 2. Don't overthink it. Once I bend it, I can decide if I need to cut some off the ends or not. If anyone has a good close up of how best to tuck in the ends around the chassis mounts, etc, that would be helpful. It looks like I might have interference with the door hinge mounts, but maybe I'm just struggling to visualize it. might make sense once it's bent.

2: Does anyone have a link for a better replacement ignition switch trim ring? All the switches and gauges have a nice chrome/polished trim ring, and the ignition switch appears to be a galvanized material. Sticks out like a sore thumb.

[mmklaxer]

Aaaaannnnd one other thought/question. to remove the dash (hope I don't have to ever do that) I would have to remove the RT turn signal, so when I make those connections, I'm planning to create a weather pack type connection vs butt connectors or solder. I haven't really dug too much into the dash harness yet, so that's an open item. Once I finalize the dash configuration, I'll wrap the dash in rapper extreme vinyl plus 1/8" padding, install the gauges/switches, then sort out how to attach the add ons not described in the manual.

[edwardb]

So 2 dash questions:

1: Searched high and low on how to bend the dash ends. Don't want to overthink it, but is there a best practice? Only thing I could find was "bend it around a paint can" That tells me 2 things: 1. approximate radius and 2. Don't overthink it. Once I bend it, I can decide if I need to cut some off the ends or not. If anyone has a good close up of how best to tuck in the ends around the chassis mounts, etc, that would be helpful. It looks like I might have interference with the door hinge mounts, but maybe I'm just struggling to visualize it. might make sense once it's bent.

2: Does anyone have a link for a better replacement ignition switch trim ring? All the switches and gauges have a nice chrome/polished trim ring, and the ignition switch appears to be a galvanized material. Sticks out like a sore thumb.

1. Best practice? I don't know. I bent mine around one of the posts in my basement. It's really not critical or hard. The bend starts in the area where the dash narrows. Lots of pictures have been posted. This is the dash from my last Roadster build. Yes the ends are typically trimmed off. Just hook the bend around the door hinges as can be seen in the picture. They float under the body and it's fine. Some tie them down, but it's not necessary.

2. My truck kit also came with one of the "new" generic ignition switches. I agree. The appearance is underwhelming. I'm not aware of any replacement trim rings. I replaced it completely with a Pollak 31-180P Ignition Switch. Recommended by another builder. Around $25 on Amazon and looks decent.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/.highres/IMG_4021_zpsqo3mmkcg.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/.highres/IMG_4021_zpsqo3mmkcg.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Mike.Bray]

Searched high and low on how to bend the dash ends. Don't want to overthink it, but is there a best practice? Only thing I could find was "bend it around a paint can" That tells me 2 things: 1. approximate radius and 2. Don't overthink it. Once I bend it, I can decide if I need to cut some off the ends or not. If anyone has a good close up of how best to tuck in the ends around the chassis mounts, etc, that would be helpful. It looks like I might have interference with the door hinge mounts, but maybe I'm just struggling to visualize it. might make sense once it's bent.

You will definitely need to cut some off each end, more on the PS. Make sure it's tucked up behind and under the body when mounted so it doesn't hold the body too high. Don't ask me how I know. You can also check out the Budget LS build videos, there's one where he shows this.

I installed Weatherpack connectors on my RT turn signal unit, works great. Like you I wanted the option to remove the dash if I needed to.

[mmklaxer]

Picked up the Coyote package from Mike Forte today! His shop is something else - he's got it all! unloaded everything into the garage with plans to assemble next weekend. I think I have everything i need save a 14mm hex socket fro the oil nipple. will pick up this week, then get cranking with my dad when he arrives!
181387
with the plan to install the engine soon, I went ahead and ordered tires. Conti ExtremeContact Force. 275-35R18 up front, 315-30R18s out back. beefy. seeing themin person vs other peoples cars makes a difference...
181388181389
Other than that it's been pretty slow, mainly because the garage is pretty cold here in Maine. The wiring is largely done, save final install of the IDIDIT relay and the RT turn signal. I have been putting off that waiting on the dash to come back from the upholsters. I just need to order some weather packs for the connections. A few of the wires are large, maybe 8ga, so those might require a different connection. I can't seem to find weather packs that large.

As for the dash, I screwed up the rapper extreme vinyl when I glued it down. I used a spray adhesive and it bled through where I must have applied too heavy. Rather than continue to mess it up, burn time ripping it all off to start over (again) i went to a local upholsterer to have them wrap it. I'll use them for the center console as well if the quality is as good as advertised.

[Ducky2009]

178679

In the above picture you can see where I mounted the Inertia switch. without lengthening the wires, the run if wire gets me to that location, which I can still reach up and reset based on where I'm putting undermount support panels. To the immediate right of the inertia switch I'm planning to install the ididit relay to go with the RT turn signal. Much like many others I plan to use the button on the end of the stalk for high/low and flash to pass headlight functionality. Wires on the relay and the RT set up should reach fine at that location.

Question: If you hit a bump big enough to activate the Inertia Switch, can you reach it to reset it? Looks pretty high up into the dash, and there will be lots of wires that you don't want to disturb.

FYI... As others, I never cut the length of any wires. Not many were too long.

[JohnK]

Awesome! Congratulations on getting the engine and tires. It's always a big day when that stuff shows up.

just FYI - weatherpack connectors aren't rated for the kind of amperage that would call for 8 ga. wire, so this is why you don't see weatherpack terminals for that gauge. Also, weatherpacks are great, but kind of bulky and overkill behind the dash for most of the smaller wires. If you are afflicted with tool collection syndrome, consider picking up a Molex crimper. I used the Molex mini fit connectors for most of the connections behind the dash. They're much more compact. The crimper tool is definitely spendy but it's something I foresee getting a lot of use out of down the road on other projects.

[mmklaxer]

Question: If you hit a bump big enough to activate the Inertia Switch, can you reach it to reset it? Looks pretty high up into the dash, and there will be lots of wires that you don't want to disturb.

FYI... As others, I never cut the length of any wires. Not many were too long.

Very fair question. I keep checking it as I put more and more stuff behind the dash. Final check will be with dash installed - if I can't reach it I have room to move it, or extend some wires to put it somewhere more accessible. Good lookin' out!

[mmklaxer]

Awesome! Congratulations on getting the engine and tires. It's always a big day when that stuff shows up.

just FYI - weatherpack connectors aren't rated for the kind of amperage that would call for 8 ga. wire, so this is why you don't see weatherpack terminals for that gauge. Also, weatherpacks are great, but kind of bulky and overkill behind the dash for most of the smaller wires. If you are afflicted with tool collection syndrome, consider picking up a Molex crimper. I used the Molex mini fit connectors for most of the connections behind the dash. They're much more compact. The crimper tool is definitely spendy but it's something I foresee getting a lot of use out of down the road on other projects.

thanks John - I'll definitely take a look. What did you use for the larger IDIDIT wires?

[JohnK]

I positioned the Ididit relay next to my main power bus bar so I ran the main power feed to the Ididit relay directly to the bus bar. For the rest of the wires to the relay I used butt splice connectors because of the gauge of the wires. I'm not a big fan of butt connectors, but when I do have to use them, I use these (https://www.delcity.net/store/Lead!Free-Heat-Shrink,-Crimp-&-Solder-Jars/p_917546.h_824696) from Del City. They're crimp, solder and shrink connectors which is sort of a belt and suspenders (and another belt) approach. Because I'm OCD (and really hate butt connectors) I then put another layer of dual-wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing over the top of that. You can sort of see them in this photo if you follow the wires from the Ididit relay (top left corner of the dash next to the bus bar).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=155222&d=1635913126

[mmklaxer]

Next weekend I'm assembling the coyote and tkx transmission, making sure I have everything I need.

For greasing the throwout bearing and input shaft on the transmission, should I be using the red tacky stuff, or regular grease gun grease?

[mmklaxer]

Couldn't find anything in the spec sheets for the tremec, but decided to go with Sta-Plex red grease. seems to be good for a broad temperature band.

[edwardb]

Next weekend I'm assembling the coyote and tkx transmission, making sure I have everything I need.

For greasing the throwout bearing and input shaft on the transmission, should I be using the red tacky stuff, or regular grease gun grease?

Throwout bearings (if new) typically come pre-lubed. Shouldn't need to add anything. I little bit of grease on the fingers of the clutch arm around the TOB is good. The pivot point on the clutch arm typically has a blob of grease. But if it doesn't some there too. A light coat of grease on the input shaft is OK. But don't get carried away anywhere. You don't want grease slinging around in there.

[460.465USMC]

Picked up the Coyote package from Mike Forte today! His shop is something else - he's got it all!

Ditto on Forte's shop. And, congrats on getting your Gen 3 in the garage. That's a good feeling.

FWIW, I had trouble using Forte's lift bracket setup as shown in your picture. I couldn't get the drivetrain to tip downward (front to rear) with his brackets that attach to the sides of the block. The Coyote block has bosses to attach lift brackets on the left front and back right. Connecting brackets to these positions, along with a hoist leveler, allow it to tip down for the install. I picked up a lift bracket kit from eBay (made in USA) that matches the bosses on the block for around $40. Maybe you'll have a better results with Forte's bracket setup then me, but just wanted to pass it along in case it's helpful.

Here's a picture to illustrate.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166445&d=1652061147

[mmklaxer]

Ditto on Forte's shop. And, congrats on getting your Gen 3 in the garage. That's a good feeling.

FWIW, I had trouble using Forte's lift bracket setup as shown in your picture. I couldn't get the drivetrain to tip downward (front to rear) with his brackets that attach to the sides of the block. The Coyote block has bosses to attach lift brackets on the left front and back right. Connecting brackets to these positions, along with a hoist leveler, allow it to tip down for the install. I picked up a lift bracket kit from eBay (made in USA) that matches the bosses on the block for around $40. Maybe you'll have a better results with Forte's bracket setup then me, but just wanted to pass it along in case it's helpful.

Here's a picture to illustrate.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166445&d=1652061147

Appreciate the tip. I was leaning this way as well. Forte's set up hooks onto the header studs, which means I'd have to leave them in place until the engine is installed. With all the threads about installing the DS header bolts, I wasn't looking forward to trying to get a socket in there to extract the studs in the engine bay...

Will likely follow your path, thanks!

[mmklaxer]

it's been a while since I updated this, and a lot has happened!

Dash complete. I wrapped the dash in rapper extreme vinyl, which matches the seats fairly well. I tried to minimize the clutter on the dash, opting to hide a few of the dashes on the hidden center support. Traditional layout with horn, key, and hazard switch visible on top. I mounted a grab handle on the passenger side and tied it into the 2x2 cross bar for support. I used the MIL light that came with the coyote controls pack centered above the steering wheel. Added the RT turn signal and wired it for the high beam activation with the momentary switch. Under the dash is the headlight switch, wipers (shouldn't need that one too much) and a USB port.
183487183488

Engine Install. Engine is in! boy that is a beast. It took all of 5 of us to wrangle it into place. Hindsight being 20/20, most of my struggles came from the PS being slightly lower than the DS due to chain positioning. That caused the oil pan to kick out to the DS and the PS head to kick out to the right, making it even wider. I had to take off the expansion tank and remove the hydraulic clutch reservoir to get it all to fit. Otherwise, no issues. I waited until the engine was fully installed to mount the headers. Tight quarters, for sure, but they all got 30mm bolts with some ultra copper RTV to help hold them in place. I'm sure they're all torqued exactly to spec too....hahahaha!
183489183490

Odds and Ends. I ran all the electrical hookups to the engine save the purple tach wire and the alternator power wire (just need an 8ga ring terminal). Hooked the fuel line up, mounted the radiator. As I was planning on using the kit provided coolant system, I didn't buy any additional hoses. Well, I don't see how that expansion tank will fit in there now that the engine is in, so I'll be going the Moroso expansion tank route. Ordered the requisite hoses and will wrap that up shortly.
183491

dropped it on the floor for the first time. MAN this thing is low! after having it on a dolly and jack stands for almost a year, it's shocking how low it is.

One challenge I'm still working through - Driveshaft bolts. I can't seem to get a hex socket and torque wrench on it. I had previously installed 3/4" spacers on the transmission mount as it sounds like darn close to everyone needs it. Might as well do it before install was the logic! well, I think I need to remove them to have the drive shaft angle more to create space to get a wrench on the bolts. Then I can reinstall after as necessary to get the proper pinion angles. Does that make sense?

[460.465USMC]

Engine Install. Engine is in! boy that is a beast. It took all of 5 of us to wrangle it into place.

Doesn't look like it will fit, does it? But then somehow, ever so slowly and carefully it nestles into place. Congrats! Well done, sir.


dropped it on the floor for the first time. MAN this thing is low! after having it on a dolly and jack stands for almost a year, it's shocking how low it is.

Pretty sure that was my exact words as well when I had mine on the ground for the first time.


One challenge I'm still working through - Driveshaft bolts. I can't seem to get a hex socket and torque wrench on it. I had previously installed 3/4" spacers on the transmission mount as it sounds like darn close to everyone needs it. Might as well do it before install was the logic! well, I think I need to remove them to have the drive shaft angle more to create space to get a wrench on the bolts. Then I can reinstall after as necessary to get the proper pinion angles. Does that make sense?

I used a Hex drive bit socket like this with an extension and narrow headed ratchet: https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/862411-dewalt-8-mm-3-8-drive-hex-bit-socket.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3a2iBhCFARIsAD4jQB3ocoBgdkwasd26LJyT vV_dEK-2fUGA7wYi8GBLqzGeiOzIBmHxMIsaAs0vEALw_wcB. I also have three Forte 1/4" transmission spacers installed. Is this what you're using? The clearance was really tight, but I was able to get the hex drive far enough into the head of the socket head bolt to tighten. Also, my Pinion Angle is within the recommended range with the above Forte spacers. Hopefully, yours will be as well.

[mmklaxer]

I used a Hex drive bit socket like this with an extension and narrow headed ratchet: https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/862411-dewalt-8-mm-3-8-drive-hex-bit-socket.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3a2iBhCFARIsAD4jQB3ocoBgdkwasd26LJyT vV_dEK-2fUGA7wYi8GBLqzGeiOzIBmHxMIsaAs0vEALw_wcB. I also have three Forte 1/4" transmission spacers installed. Is this what you're using? The clearance was really tight, but I was able to get the hex drive far enough into the head of the socket head bolt to tighten. Also, my Pinion Angle is within the recommended range with the above Forte spacers. Hopefully, yours will be as well.

I have a similar hex head. I think I have to raise the car up and try torquing from below vs above.

Yes, using 3 of the forte 1/4” spacers. I should have checked the IRS pinion angle before installing the drive shaft, as the adapter seems to be a nice flat surface, but maybe I’ll find another way to measure. Else the bolts come back out…

[460.465USMC]

I have a similar hex head. I think I have to raise the car up and try torquing from below vs above.

Yes, using 3 of the forte 1/4” spacers. I should have checked the IRS pinion angle before installing the drive shaft, as the adapter seems to be a nice flat surface, but maybe I’ll find another way to measure. Else the bolts come back out…

I should have mentioned I tightened the driveshaft bolts from below. I rotated the driveshaft so the bolt I was tightening was at the position that gave me the best clearance. Hope this works for you.

[mmklaxer]

I should have mentioned I tightened the driveshaft bolts from below. I rotated the driveshaft so the bolt I was tightening was at the position that gave me the best clearance. Hope this works for you.

Bingo! thanks.

Also took the time to validate pinion angle. with 3 spacers I'm spot on.

[mmklaxer]

After installing the engine, I took a couple weeks away for road trips and vacation. Spent some time today getting the final punch list knocked out.

Wrapped up power steering lines and cooler. ended up witht he cooler on the passenger F panel, and used the kit-provided hoses to go from KRC pump to rack and rack to cooler. then added a 13.5" pre-fabbed hose from the cooler back to the KRC pump. Ready to bleed.
184762

Moroso Expansion tank is in, along with most coolant lines. I need to order the 1/4" NPT x 3/8" hose barb, then the last hose will be in and I can fill the coolant system. No major issues with the hoses once I had the right ones. Just measure 6 times, cut once. Actually cut twice 'cause I got scared and didn't cut enough off the first time...
184763

After that I knocked off a bunch of small items on the punch list:
- wired the fan to the orange wire from the controls pack and ground the black wire
- bled the hydraulic clutch. I have ~1 1/8" travel on the slave with full throw on the clutch pedal.
- engine is full of oil, transmission is full of fluid

Next Up:
- Review the "First Start Punch list." I think there's one in the manual, if not I'm sure the forum has one.
- Put some gas in the tank
- Set the fuel pressure and check for leaks.
- Check all the electronics. I haven't checked any so far, so here's hoping I wired it all correctly....
- Let 'er rip

Anything particular to check besides the above before first start, any major "DO THIS FIRST" advice?

[460.465USMC]

Nice work on the Moroso coolant tank. Making up the brackets to mount it were a bit tricky for me, especially the bottom bracket. You're cruising right along.

For some (including me) First Start with the Gen 3 Coyote seems to take quite a few iterations of turning the motor over for a few seconds. Stop. Repeat. In my case, the PCM just didn't provide the fuel pump voltage to fire it even with the ignition sending the Start voltage to the PCM. But I kept at it (changing nothing), and it eventually fired up. Of course, watch for the MIL light. Looking forward to hearing yours come to life.

In case it's useful, here's the link to the summary from my experience: Coyote's First Howl! (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36627-460-465USMC-s-MK4-Build-9890-Lund-Racing-Tune-is-1-300&p=495683&viewfull=1#post495683)

[mmklaxer]

Nice work on the Moroso coolant tank. Making up the brackets to mount it were a bit tricky for me, especially the bottom bracket. You're cruising right along.

For some (including me) First Start with the Gen 3 Coyote seems to take quite a few iterations of turning the motor over for a few seconds. Stop. Repeat. In my case, the PCM just didn't provide the fuel pump voltage to fire it even with the ignition sending the Start voltage to the PCM. But I kept at it (changing nothing), and it eventually fired up. Of course, watch for the MIL light. Looking forward to hearing yours come to life.

In case it's useful, here's the link to the summary from my experience: Coyote's First Howl! (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36627-460-465USMC-s-MK4-Build-9890-Lund-Racing-Tune-is-1-300&p=495683&viewfull=1#post495683)

Thanks - I'm about to post, but I think my experience is going to be the same. Just hooked up battery power and started checking things. With the key in the on position, and specifically listening for it, the fuel pump didn't fire up for the 1-2 seconds others have said to expect. further, the fuel pressure on the regulator reads 0. Will be following your technique.

[mmklaxer]

Last few things before attempting to start. Filled the coolant with 3 gallons of Dex-Cool. I have another gallon mixed that I'll use to top off the expansion tank as I go. I put dielectric grease on all the grounds. Put gas in the tank (1 gallon-ish?). I then hooked up the positive terminal for the first time and immediately heard a clicking noise and pulled the cable back off. weird. couldn't figure it out without the battery terminal attached and walking around so, i did just that. got around to the dash to see the hazards blinking. I had installed the switch upside down to what I thought and I had the hazards "on." Funny after the fact, but going through it when I've never done this before it's a bit nerve racking. I'll flip the switch so that down is off.

Otherwise, the dash lights up nicely. Clock started keeping time, though I'll need to set it. I calibrated the tach (500 rpms) and the fuel gauge (7/8 tank) per the responses I've found on here for the fuel level sender in the kit and the gen3 coyote.

When the key turns to the run position, I can hear the throttle body activate. I do NOT hear the fuel pump for the first second or so. Confirmed I have 0 PSI on the regulator dial. I've read numerous threads with great info on this. I BELIEVE I have everything wired correctly, and the more I see, there seem to be a number of gen3's that won't pump until the engine attempts to start. I'll be checking my wiring and will post some pictures if I really can't figure it out. I blipped the key to start for just a second to see if that would be enough to activate the relay for the fuel pump. nope. More work to do here, or just try to start it a few times like Chris (460.465USMC) did for a successful first start. Not much else I checked at this point, I want to wire the lights soon to check those harnesses, especially the tail lights with the trailer connection.

I did try to hit the horn, and nothing. That's a fairly simple electrical setup, and I didn't do anything too wild. hooked it up per the instructions. I switched the horn button out with a different one. it has 4 connections on the back and came with no instructions. I suspect I hooked up to the wrong ones. easy enough to check.

No fuel pump and no horn. a little frustrating, but trying to be patient. Also, this is the first time I energized the system, so I'm not entirely surprised that everything didn't work perfectly first go.
184999

[460.465USMC]

I know the feeling. Hang in there. My guess is you'll be there soon.

It's likely the clicking noises you heard when connecting the battery for the first time are coming from the Coyote PDB (fuse panel). This is normal, and I believe it's relays energizing. It's only heard when reconnecting the battery. Otherwise, you'll (eventually) just hear the fuel pump charge the system for 1-2 seconds when turning the key to the Run position.

If you determine more troubleshooting is needed, here are a couple No Start threads where Edwardb lists the critical items that must be connected and functioning for the Gen 3 Coyote to start.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40195-Coyote-gen-3-no-start&p=461613&viewfull=1#post461613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41944-Coyote-F5-wiring-harness-connections&p=480742&viewfull=1#post480742

[JohnK]

I seem to recall a few other posts recently reporting no fuel pump prime on newer gen 3 coyotes prior to first start. If I recall how those eventually played out, when they actually tried to start the engine, the fuel pump started and after first start the fuel pump will prime momentarily at key on as expected. I think it's a quirk of the newer gen 3 coyotes that it doesn't always prime at key on prior to the first engine start.

[mmklaxer]

I know the feeling. Hang in there. My guess is you'll be there soon.

It's likely the clicking noises you heard when connecting the battery for the first time are coming from the Coyote PDB (fuse panel). This is normal, and I believe it's relays energizing. It's only heard when reconnecting the battery. Otherwise, you'll (eventually) just hear the fuel pump charge the system for 1-2 seconds when turning the key to the Run position.

If you determine more troubleshooting is needed, here are a couple No Start threads where Edwardb lists the critical items that must be connected and functioning for the Gen 3 Coyote to start.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?40195-Coyote-gen-3-no-start&p=461613&viewfull=1#post461613

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41944-Coyote-F5-wiring-harness-connections&p=480742&viewfull=1#post480742

Thanks for these links. I’m away for the week, but I’m wired just like Paul describes in the first link. Excited to get back and try again next Sunday!

[mmklaxer]

I seem to recall a few other posts recently reporting no fuel pump prime on newer gen 3 coyotes prior to first start. If I recall how those eventually played out, when they actually tried to start the engine, the fuel pump started and after first start the fuel pump will prime momentarily at key on as expected. I think it's a quirk of the newer gen 3 coyotes that it doesn't always prime at key on prior to the first engine start.

I’m hoping this is the case. No I just have to wait patiently until I can get back to the build… ugh

[mmklaxer]

I need to figure out how to upload videos, cause no video=didn't happen. Having said that...

...It fired up! And sounded gloriously loud without side pipes for the first go.

A couple friends came over to help with the event. After a coaching session on what to look for and where to focus, I started cranking the motor. Much like others have described with recent gen3 Coyotes, it took quite a few cranks to get the fuel pressure up. My "fuel pressure regulator assistant" told me that with each crank the fuel pressure climbed and climbed, so the fuel pump was working, and just getting the system primed and lines full of fuel.

It definitely took a number of cranks before it started. Even knowing that would be the case, we looked at each other and discussed a few potential things it could be, but then it finally fired up. Ran smooth from the moment it fired up. No fuel leaks (Woohoo!!). I only ran it for about a minute 1-2 times, as shortly thereafter I had to run and pick up the eldest from a birthday party.

A couple things to check:
- The water temp gauge never got off 0, which isn't shocking, as the gauge won't even begin to read until it's above 140 (60*C is at the lot end of the gauge). I need to run it for a bit to check that.
- Oil pressure never got off 0. The MIL light never came on, and no codes were thrown, so I assume the issue is in the wiring of the gauge and not an actual oil pressure issue.
- Fuel Gauge is still at 0. I only put about a gallon in, so that could just be that I didn't put enough in to "move the needle."
- Horn button is messed up (technical term). I bought an aftermarket horn momentary switch referenced on this forum https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CYRSCRR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. the rear of the horn has 4 screws: 2 + and 2 -. When wired "appropriately" nothing happens. I have power running on the hot wire, so that's good.. I tried all combinations of the 4 connections and no luck. what I DID find is that if I hook up the wires to 2 specific connectors (one + and one neg), the horn sounds without touching the button, so something's definitely not right. I'm going to try the kit provided horn button just to make sure the system is functioning, then calling the manufacturer.

SO happy for a successful first go!

[mmklaxer]

quick update - I connected the kit-provided horn button, and it also honked as I completed the circuit without depressing the button. Any thoughts?

I am running the wiring as defined in the instructions. Horn is just 2 wires from the dash harness that run through the front harness to the horns. The instructions read to just hook either power and ground wires to either blade connection on the horns, with a pigtail to the second horn. relatively straight forward all things considered - not sure what I could have boogered up there....

[Lidodrip]

Congratulations on the first start, a very exciting milestone! One word of advice I learned from the school of hard knocks, make sure you re-tighten the hose clamps on your cooling system after it gets warm for the first time. We dumped all our coolant on the garage floor after a clamp came loose, the dog ran away, and my wife called us to come in for dinner. I spent an hour looking for the dog, my son cleaned up the coolant and we both had cold dinner. Still had smiles on our face though...

James

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! You made it. Congrats. Such a great feeling. Looking forward to seeing and HEARING the rumble when you get your video uploaded.

[Junbug]

Awesome! Really excited to hear and read your progress. Can't wait to see the video with sound!

[edwardb]

Congratulations on the first start. That's interesting Ford apparently changed the calibration on the engine computer to not run the pump until started. No more couple seconds when the key is first turned on. No wonder guys are having to crank the engine so much on first starts. Two things: First, I'd recommend putting more fuel in the tank. 1 gallon isn't much. It will run out and/or starve pretty quickly. I'd put at least several in. If you're worried about it getting old while you complete you build, just add some Stabil and move on. Mine sits for 6 months during the winter with Stabil and no issues at spring start-up and run. Second, get that oil pressure gauge sorted out. Granted it may have thrown a code with low oil pressure. But personally I'd have shut it off almost immediately with no indication on the gauge. Very unlikely you did any harm and almost for sure it's fine. But no oil pressure is catastrophic very quickly.

[mmklaxer]

Congratulations on the first start. That's interesting Ford apparently changed the calibration on the engine computer to not run the pump until started. No more couple seconds when the key is first turned on. No wonder guys are having to crank the engine so much on first starts. Two things: First, I'd recommend putting more fuel in the tank. 1 gallon isn't much. It will run out and/or starve pretty quickly. I'd put at least several in. If you're worried about it getting old while you complete you build, just add some Stabil and move on. Mine sits for 6 months during the winter with Stabil and no issues at spring start-up and run. Second, get that oil pressure gauge sorted out. Granted it may have thrown a code with low oil pressure. But personally I'd have shut it off almost immediately with no indication on the gauge. Very unlikely you did any harm and almost for sure it's fine. But no oil pressure is catastrophic very quickly.

Thanks for the heads up - should the oil pressure gauge read on just "Run?"

[edwardb]

Thanks for the heads up - should the oil pressure gauge read on just "Run?"

I see from your pictures you have the Ron Francis harness and Speedhut gauges. Gauges are off the "ACC FED" portion of the RF panel. So are powered with the key in Run but not in Start. Also in Accessory, but not used much in my experience. When you turn the key to the Run position, normal to see all the gauges bump a little or even sweep depending on where they were when last powered off. You should also see the GPS speedo display power up and show "acquiring" or whatever. The gauges will zero when the key is in start, but come right back when you let go of the key. You mention oil pressure, water temp, and fuel all registering zero. If you don't see any movement in them at all, likely a gauge power issue. Unlikely all would fail. Check the brown gauge power wire in the dash harness. Should be connected to the gauge power daisy chain and should have +12V with the ignition in run. Check the fuse if not. If OK, check the wiring at the ignition switch. Accessory gets it's power from there and only other circuits are wiper, heater, and radio. So if accessory isn't powered, you may not have noticed it yet.

Again, don't take my concern about no indicated oil pressure as alarmist. The Coyote has a crankshaft driven oil pump and for a brand new engine extremely unlikely it's not doing its thing. But oil pressure is one of the primary signs of engine health (or not...) so get the gauge working. Good luck.

[mmklaxer]

I see from your pictures you have the Ron Francis harness and Speedhut gauges. Gauges are off the "ACC FED" portion of the RF panel. So are powered with the key in Run but not in Start. Also in Accessory, but not used much in my experience. When you turn the key to the Run position, normal to see all the gauges bump a little or even sweep depending on where they were when last powered off. You should also see the GPS speedo display power up and show "acquiring" or whatever. The gauges will zero when the key is in start, but come right back when you let go of the key. You mention oil pressure, water temp, and fuel all registering zero. If you don't see any movement in them at all, likely a gauge power issue. Unlikely all would fail. Check the brown gauge power wire in the dash harness. Should be connected to the gauge power daisy chain and should have +12V with the ignition in run. Check the fuse if not. If OK, check the wiring at the ignition switch. Accessory gets it's power from there and only other circuits are wiper, heater, and radio. So if accessory isn't powered, you may not have noticed it yet.

Again, don't take my concern about no indicated oil pressure as alarmist. The Coyote has a crankshaft driven oil pump and for a brand new engine extremely unlikely it's not doing its thing. But oil pressure is one of the primary signs of engine health (or not...) so get the gauge working. Good luck.

This is very helpful, thank you. I've read quite a few oil pressure gauge threads recently, and between that, and your advice above, I have the semblance of a plan.

1. check the brown gauge power wire wire for power. if not, check fuze.
2. Double check speedo - I think it read "aquiring" but want to double check
3. tach definitely registered RPMs at idle. Feels like power is running to the gauges.
4. Put 5 gal of gas in the tank to validate THAT gauge is reading properly.
5. Focus on the oil pressure sensor connection at the sensor. I followed the manual and cut the sensor connections off the harness to connect them to the RF harness rather than running the speedhut harnesses into the engine bay. Hindsight, that would have been easier, but I'm down the path of the RF harness and getting power properly hooked up to the 3-wire sensor using the oil pressure power and the oil temp wires along with ground. I'd like to make those work, and I very likely could have flip flopped the connections. Given the directions aren't expressly clear (to me) I came to the forum to find others that connected the wires to know which connects to which. Worst case I can always call speedhut and get replacement harnesses and run those in lieu of the sending unit harness.

[mmklaxer]

Over the past few posts, Paul helped me determine a trouble shooting path for my oil pressure gauge not responding at start up. I think I found my forehead-smacking cause, but i still need a solution.

- I believe I have power to the gauges through the brown feed wire. tach is powered, speedo reads 000000, oil pressure and water temp "blip" up when the key turns to run.
- I went the route of following the instructions for using the RF sending unit harness instead of running the gauge provided harness to the sensor. That means I cut the end off the gauge harness and attached the sensor attachment to the RF sending unit harness (power, ground, and oil temp power wires) as it requires 3 wires.
- "FOREHEAD SMACK" moment - on the gauge side of the RF sending unit harness, I attached the oil pressure connector (two wire) to the speedhut gauge connector (three wire. so the oil temp power wire I used at the sensor connects to nothing on the gauge side of the harness. the oil temp wire is still attached to the oil temp gauge connector (2-wire) that's hanging out in space because I don't have an oil temp gauge.

Unfortunately I no longer have the speedhut gauge harness, else I would just repeat the process of attaching the speedhut connector to the same 3 wires that I used on the other end of the RF sending unit harness at the sensor. I see 2 solutions:
- find a way to insert the oil temp power wire into the RF connector that connects to the Oil pressure gauge (has anyone done that? how the heck do I keep it in place?)
- push the easy button - call speedhut and get a replacement oil pressure gauge harness and use that in lieu of the sending unit harness.

Thoughts?

[mmklaxer]

Here are a couple videos of the first start.

The REAL first start. The video isn't great, as I only had 2 others with me, and I wanted them to focus on looking for leaks at the regulator and the fuel filter/tank.
https://youtube.com/shorts/8whOye1YKPg

When the Mrs got home, she wanted to see it fire up as well, so here's a better view of the day:
https://youtube.com/shorts/ed68GUCeMr4

Given that it took quite a few cranks to get the fuel pressure up, we were able to check for leaks in advance of the actual start. We still looked again after the video stopped, but none found. Marked the AN fittings to keep an eye on movement over time.

Regarding the oil pressure harness, I ended up ordering a new one from speedhut, as that seemed like the easier path than to find a way to break into the sending unit harness to add the 3rd wire on the gauge side. I had thrown away the wire after cutting off the sensor connector end. So I currently have 3 wires running from the sensor through the sending unit harness, but only 2 of them are in the kit-provided connector that attaches to the gauge that has 3 wires. the 3rd wire is still attached to the oil temp connector.

I also spent some time installing the lights on the body today. once the gauges are all sorted out, I'll put the body on for the first time to check for fit/windshield & wipers, etc. Then back off for undercoat.

[KDubU]

Great milestone Mike and she sounds nice….with only headers.

[mmklaxer]

Spoke with Ron Francis this AM regarding the disconnect between the sending unit connectors and the gauge connectors. I need to get some Ron Francis revision numbers to them and some pictures to validate the connectors I need, but they'll help me work through a solution. It sounds like it is difficult to get the wires out of the connectors without risk of damaging them, so might have some new connectors coming.

My kit has gauges with the wires in slots 1&3, and the fuel & water temp has them in slots 1&2.

[mmklaxer]

After speaking with Ron Francis and ordering a set of connector removal tools, I was able to get the wires lined up in the appropriate connector slots. First test was the fuel gauge - turn the key to run, and the fuel gauge came to life. Nice. Fired up the engine, and the Oil pressure jumped to 100 before settling in at the 40ish range once at temp. after a bit the water temp started to climb as it warmed up as well. I need to run it for a bit longer to make sure the fan comes on, but for now, I'm satisfied that the gauges are running properly. I did notice a very slight leak from the coolant system at the water temp sensor. snugged up the fitting a bit to see if that'll do. otherwise I'll need to remove and add some more rounds of teflon tape or pipe dope. Hoping not to need that, but we'll see.

I also installed the stock horn button for the time being. works as expected, so the problem definitely resides within the switch i bought.

Overall very excited to find out that so far, the wiring glitches were not due to misassembly, but rather issues with the hardware that I could correct.

Hoping to swing by the powder coaters to pick up my ceramic coated side pipes this week. then - Go Cart Time!!!

Thanks to Kyle (KDubU) for swinging by to give it the once-over. Nothing major identified, and good to swap stories with another builder. Only thing we both agreed on is that the brakes aren't as firm as I'd like. I'll go back to bleed again to see if there are some trapped bubbles in there somewhere.

For now, the car is back on the ground, looking low and lean, ready to run.

[KDubU]

It was great to meet you Mike and see your build. It looks great, nice and clean and you are o so close to being done. Makes me so miss my roadster and I was out on BAT looking at ones up for sale…would like to build my own again but alas timing is not good for me right now. If I ever see mine up for sale, I will buy it in a heartbeat. Below is mine in Viking Blue but your colour combo will look awesome!

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[Nigel Allen]

It was great to meet you Mike and see your build. It looks great, nice and clean and you are o so close to being done. Makes me so miss my roadster and I was out on BAT looking at ones up for sale…would like to build my own again but alas timing is not good for me right now. If I ever see mine up for sale, I will buy it in a heartbeat. Below is mine in Viking Blue but your colour combo will look awesome!

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Man, that sure is a poster car! I see why you would want it back.

[mmklaxer]

I have some time this week to spend on the body, so I took it down from it's position above the tractor and started cleaning. two rounds of wax & degreaser with scotchbrite pads, alternating between scrubbing and picking wax with a dental pick. I think I'm in pretty good shape, but will reassess again later. I didn't get much wax gumming up on the body itself. Rather it just turned chalky and wiped up with paper towels.

Afterwards I washed it down with dish detergent and warm water. I found a couple areas that I needed to really dig to clear out the wax beneath the surface. Namely behind the doors. I assume these are common, as both sides were similar. 186866186867I also had a nice void back on the DS side by the truck opening.186868

With all those cleaned up and scrubbed with more wax/degreaser and scotchbrite, final wash to clean everything up.186869

I flipped the body over to work on the wheel wells. Shooting for 1/4" lip on the wheel wells, I ended up taking off about 1/4" from the fronts, and really just cleaned up the rears to a uniform reveal. I started getting tired and called it before making a mistake. WIll head back out with a fresh head to make sure there are no waves in the wheel wells before backfilling with everglass.

One question - Should I clean up the hood hold edge in the body? the overhand by the DS footbox is 1/4", and everywhere else is closer to 1/2". I can't tell if tha'ts deliberate, or just a product of the mold.
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[Daral]

quick update - I connected the kit-provided horn button, and it also honked as I completed the circuit without depressing the button. Any thoughts?

I am running the wiring as defined in the instructions. Horn is just 2 wires from the dash harness that run through the front harness to the horns. The instructions read to just hook either power and ground wires to either blade connection on the horns, with a pigtail to the second horn. relatively straight forward all things considered - not sure what I could have boogered up there....

It didn't look like anyone responded to your horn button question. I had the same problem. The horns honked as soon as I attached the battery cables. I tracked it down to a bad button. It was the FFR supplied one that is about $4.00 on their website. I bought a different one from Iowa80 https://www.iowa80.com/pd/chrome-horn-button/346848/ Nicer looking and hopefully it will work when it arrives next week.

[Lidodrip]

One question - Should I clean up the hood hold edge in the body? the overhand by the DS footbox is 1/4", and everywhere else is closer to 1/2". I can't tell if tha'ts deliberate, or just a product of the mold.
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The variation in the hood body edge is there on purpose - it is done because of how the top of the driver's foot box comes close to the edge in that spot. I ended up making my edge a uniform 1/4" all around - I prefer the symmetrical look.

James

[mmklaxer]

The variation in the hood body edge is there on purpose - it is done because of how the top of the driver's foot box comes close to the edge in that spot. I ended up making my edge a uniform 1/4" all around - I prefer the symmetrical look.

James

Thanks James. I found Paul's opening-by-opening guide to how best to trim the various areas. He did the same.

[mmklaxer]

It's been a hectic fall, and I was woefully negligent in posting here. Having said that - IT'S LEGAL!! Registered& Titled this week as a **1965** Shelby Cobra Replica! It was a long goofy process getting the paperwork to the BMV to obtain a VIN, but the people involved were fantastic. Insured, registered, and now off to the painter next week! Unfortunately it is now too cold to really run it around here in Maine, but it'll be back in my possession early spring in it's new liveries and ready to rock! Plus it frees up a garage space for the winter... I should remind the painter "Take your time, no rush, if I don't have it back before the salt is washed away, I'll be ok with that......
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Body work was relatively straight forward. Followed all the online advice for body positioning, all went together without issue.

A few items to still work on. I hand stitched the shifter boot just in case it had to look finished for the inspection. I'll send that to the upholsterer for a more professional look. Door sills I'll get powder coated, as I plan to carpet the flat bottom but leave the vertical exposed. I need to chop up the Gen1 Coyote cover to fit over the hoses. Then when it comes back I need to take it for a professional alignment. I got pretty darn close with a Fasttrax & string, but I want to be doubly sure it's exact at the right ride height. Other than that, just some cosmetic items to finalize, replace the kit headlights with lucas 3-bar/LEDs, door cards, etc.

Moving to Michigan

On 2/1 I'm moving to the Lansing area with work, with my family following in the Summer once school ends. Are there are groups/owners in the area? Car should be ready around 4/1, and I plan to have it trucked out to Michigan with me. I can also to some searching on the site, but with the pending move and the holiday season, life here is a bit hectic.

Hope everyone has a great Holiday!

[KDubU]

Congrats Mike! It’s another big milestone getting her legal. Who did you go with for paint after all? Are you still planning the same paint scheme? Moving to Lansing? That will be a bit different and hope all goes well for you there. I guess I won’t see much of your roadster around.

[mmklaxer]

Congrats Mike! It’s another big milestone getting her legal. Who did you go with for paint after all? Are you still planning the same paint scheme? Moving to Lansing? That will be a bit different and hope all goes well for you there. I guess I won’t see much of your roadster around.

I ended up going with Peter Arnberg with Baker Pond Hot Rods for paint, and still planning the gray with ghost stripes. If you DO see it around this spring, I’ll be giving my wife the whatfor and why!

Yes we have a plant in Lansing that I was asked to lead. I’ve heard great things about the area, and I look forward to the experience. My family is sticking around through the end of school, so I’ll be flying back and forth. I’ll text ya and swing by!

[edwardb]

Moving to Michigan

On 2/1 I'm moving to the Lansing area with work, with my family following in the Summer once school ends. Are there are groups/owners in the area? Car should be ready around 4/1, and I plan to have it trucked out to Michigan with me. I can also to some searching on the site, but with the pending move and the holiday season, life here is a bit hectic.

Welcome to sunny Michigan. ;) Having done a couple job related moves myself back in the day, I have a pretty good idea how hectic it can be. Good luck with all the details and getting the family settled.

I don't know about groups or owners in the Lansing area specifically. But a little over an hour away in the metro Detroit area is the Great Lakes Cobra Club. https://greatlakescobraclub.com/. You'd maybe be too far to participate in everything. But we have members from all over the state plus Ohio. The overall hobby car scene in SE Michigan is crazy. Lots to see and do when the season comes.

[cnutting]

I ended up going with Peter Arnberg with Baker Pond Hot Rods

Peter painted my 289 way back when. He was great to work with!

[mmklaxer]

Just picked up the car from paint Friday before Memorial Day, trailered to my new home in Haslett, MI yesterday.

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Last few items to finalize (door sills, engine cover, etc) before graduation. SOOO pumped!

[Jim1855]

Mike,
Welcome to MI.
Your car looks great, I like the colors.
Not sure about the Lansing car scene but the Grand Rapids area is fairly active.
I occasionally have a Saturday coffee at my home in SE Grand Rapids (I96 & 28th St). You'd certainly be welcome. PM for more.
Jim

[Lidodrip]

Looks great! Sorry to see you leave Maine, have a great time in Michigan. Enjoy the rides!

James

[kirby]

I love the color and subtle stripes. Looks great

[Traveller]

Welcome to MI, Mike! Beatiful car.



Not sure about the Lansing car scene but the Grand Rapids area is fairly active...
Jim

It will be even more active when mine gets back from paint...

-Jason