Put in LED brake Bulbs! Surprised by the improvement.

[skidd]

I was honestly surprised at how much better LED bulbs are in the rear tail-light of my car.
I expect something, but not as much as it is!

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/albums/Shanes%20Cobra/SelfCancelingTurnSignal/PXL_20220724_145655214.MP.jpg

I used these from Amazon (ordered a pair of yellow for the fronts too)
iBrightstar 1157LED Red
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY4T4BU/

And yes, I already have a solid-state flasher.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24625-DIY-SolidState-Arduino-Self-Canceling-Turn-Signals/

I also use a universal trailer tail-light controller to manage my running/brake/turn signals.
Similar to one of these - https://www.amazon.com/CARROFIX-Powered-2-Wire-Converter-Connector/dp/B07W8J2CKY/
With this, it lets me use the top lights for turn flashers. And all 4 lights for brakes and running.
The LEDs work far better with this module too. It used to take a little longer than I wanted for the old incandescent bulbs to light up going through this module.
Now, they turn on instantly.

Finally, the reflective backing inside the tailights appeared to be starting to bubble and flake right above where the old bulbs sit.
I'm going to assume the heat of the old-school incandescent is the cause. The LED bulbs put out a fraction of the heat.
Which I"m hoping will stop the flaking. As it Is I think I"m going to have to do something about the reflective flaking anyway.

[Ian G]

Is there much of a difference in brightness between the tail lights and brake/signals (dim to bright)? I have seen some leds that the difference was barely noticeable.

[skidd]

Yes.. there was a big difference actually!!
I was also a little worried about the "running" lights being so bright as to reduce the contract to the brake lights, but it was a huge jump up when I pressed the brakes.
I should have take that photo too.
Here's with the running lights, and the brake lights .

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/zp-core/i.php?a=Shanes%20Cobra/SelfCancelingTurnSignal&i=PXL_20220725_002832540.MP.jpg&s=595&cw=0&ch=0&q=85&wmk=%21&check=dfce0c45d6e639355b2fbbcb95f0e8f2d4ee0b60

https://www.ludicrous-speed.com/zp/zp-core/i.php?a=Shanes%20Cobra/SelfCancelingTurnSignal&i=PXL_20220725_002835578.jpg&s=595&cw=0&ch=0&q=85&wmk=%21&check=dfce0c45d6e639355b2fbbcb95f0e8f2d4ee0b60

[nucjd19]

Looks great skid!!! Thanks to Fman and his awesome tutorial I swapped out my turn signals with yellow LEDs and then put on clear lenses. I am super stoked with the look and like you said are ridiculously bright. They are clear when off but yellow when used so staying within code. Now every light on my Roadster are LED.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=169975&d=1658707632

[skidd]

I'm planning to find a nice LED headlight combo too. Leaning to the Hella housing, and a set of H4 LED bulbs.

That said.. a quick update.
I'm in love with how bright the brake and turn indicators are now.
But.. the running lights are now a little too bright for night. (rear only)
I have mine wired so the "dim" output on ALL the bulbs is used for the running lights.
The bright output on all bulbs is the brakes, and the top bright is for the turn signals.
The all-dim running might be a bit much. I was over compensating for the low output of the incandescent bulbs.
Might have to do "something" to lower the running light brightness.
Since I only have to really affect a single wire, I might just toss one of these inline.
https://www.amazon.com/Dimming-Trailer-Fixture-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B09M9TF3SQ/
Not totally sure yet what I'll do.

[seagull81]

skidd, this is what I have for LED headlights. Much brighter than the candles I had before. https://vintagecarleds.com/product-category/7-inch/

[Fman]

If you want a little more breaking light you can also go with a Custom Dynamics 8" plasma rod, you cant even see it when off and they are really bright when lit up. Cheap insurance to help avoid a rear end collision. They do sell them in 14" lengths as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Dynamics-GEN-MPLASMA-RED-Plasma-Single/dp/B0068ER6R2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Custom+dynamics+plasma+rod&qid=1658754552&sr=8-3

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148265&d=1621627448

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=148264&d=1621627440

[RJD]

Some info on the Hella H4s.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?318-What-did-you-do-on-your-roadster-today&p=472829&viewfull=1#post472829

[Chopper]

You may also want to look at Holly Retrobrights for headlights. First 7" round LED setup I've seen that has an option to have a traditional warm light colour (3000k colour, like Halogens/Sealed Beams). It also appears to be a fanless design, I think because the lens enclosure has a large heat sink on the back. I have no experience with these, but when I saw them I was interested...considering getting a pair.

[jrcuz]

I looked at the Holley Retrobrights but the $199.00 each $398.00 for 2 made me change my mind.
JR

[Chopper]

I looked at the Holley Retrobrights but the $199.00 each $398.00 for 2 made me change my mind.
JR

I agree, the pricing is absurd. The first time I saw it, I thought $200 was for the pair! That's keeping my hand off the trigger so far...
Also, they have a proprietary bulb so, if Holley discontinues them...that'll be it. I have Hella H4s with fan driven LEDs right now. I don't personally love the blue colour of the light, but they work very well.

[MikeHolt]

Breeze also sells an LED conversion kit.

https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/led-exterior-lighting-kit/

[Cutter 54]

Gentlemen, a few comments and questions; My FFR MK4 kit front directionals/running lights with 1157 bulbs are giving me some issues and I think it is due to old and oxidized looking wires on the bulb socket/pigtail. Even with pristine new pins in the Weatherpack connectors I lose power to the light if I flex or wiggle the wiring a little. I already have LED rectangular LED tail lights so I thought of upgrading the front directionals/running lights to LEDs. So a few questions;
1- Can I simply plug in LED's in the light assembly without any relay or other device to accommodate the LED bulbs?
2- Nucjd19 can you direct me to where to buy those clear running lights you pictured? You referenced Fman. Very sharp looking. Also, the headlights in the photo look familiar but I don't recall who makes them. A reference please.
3-Seagull81, On those Vintage Car LED headlights, I'm not clear on the difference between the VC4000 and VC3500 units and also the difference in the lenses; Is it just cosmetic or do some lenses cast a better light pattern?

Thanks in advance for any help. Ed Klein

[Andrew Davis]

After replacing bulbs on my bike, I ordered leds for the roadster license plate light too. Had to buy ten, but not too spendy, and gave a few to a fellow builder. Should draw less current and be more vibration tolerant.

[Chopper]

Gentlemen, a few comments and questions; My FFR MK4 kit front directionals/running lights with 1157 bulbs are giving me some issues and I think it is due to old and oxidized looking wires on the bulb socket/pigtail. Even with pristine new pins in the Weatherpack connectors I lose power to the light if I flex or wiggle the wiring a little. I already have LED rectangular LED tail lights so I thought of upgrading the front directionals/running lights to LEDs. So a few questions;
1- Can I simply plug in LED's in the light assembly without any relay or other device to accommodate the LED bulbs?


For the turn signals/flashes you will need to replace the mechanical blinker and flasher relay with one to support LEDs. The ones I got in the Breeze kit required a dedicated ground, but no big deal, otherwise just plug them in to the fuse panel. For the brake lights, head lights and license plate lights, nothing additional is needed.

[Cutter 54]

Thanks Chopper. Will look into it.