Scott's 65 Coupe Build - First Start Birthday Present

[slarson]

I GOT THE CALL FROM STEWART! Delivery July 24th-26th, so I figured it was time to start a build thread.

A little history...I've had dreams of building a Cobra replica since before college. A dream that had been pushed aside and put on the very back burner many years ago. Then about a year into the pandemic I got COVID. Stuck at home for three weeks I found the Factory Five Forum and well, here we are...

The deciding factor was that my son had graduated college the previous summer and we were lucky enough that he got a job locally. However, he had plans to move to Colorado in a few years. So looking at lead times for kits, I place my order 11/19/2021. Thinking we would have about a year to work on it together before he started seriously looking for a job in Colorado. Well, as luck would have it he sent out a few resumes this past spring, got a job offer he couldn't refuse and moved in April. Such is life, I am very happy for him, and now he has a reason to come home more often to help work on the car! I am also lucky in that I have a reason to go to Colorado, I just got back from my first visit out there and it is indescribably gorgeous.

I also attended the London Cobra show this year, I figured I should see a completed kit in person before I get my kit. It was an amazing experience, met some great people and all the cars were gorgeous. It was incredible to see cars in person whose build threads I had followed. Also met and talked with Dave Smith, a few days after the show he personally took and sent me a few pics of my kit ready to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=169750&d=1658365988

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=169751&d=1658365988

[slarson]

My plan is a street car that will see the track occasionally. The build details so far:

Complete Kit Order:

Gen 3 powder coated black
Body Cut-outs
A/C kit
Floormats
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder kit
Independent Rear Suspension
Front swaybar
Leather Steering wheel
Power Steering
Wilwood Brakes


Vendor Parts:

Levy Racing - QA1 Double Adjustable shocks with 600/350# springs
Boig - Cool Tubes
Breeze Automotive - Fan Shroud, Offset rack mounts, Locking Gas Cap
Russ Thompson - Steering column, pontoon covers, Nose radiator panel
GAS-N - Coupe Headers


Drivetrain:

Gen 3 Coyote
T-56
Quick Time bell housing
Tilton hydraulic slave cylinder
3.73 Torsen Rear Diff


MIsc:

Corbeau Evolution X seats with heat and lumbar
Digital Guard Dawg iKey Push Button Start/Alarm
Custom wiring harness
Rearview mirror camera
Aeromotive fuel system components with Fragola fittings and hoses
Lots of sound deadening and insulation


Unknowns:

Wheels (leaning towards Forgestar CF5V) and tires
Exhaust (probably GAS-N)
Paint color
Aluminum panel finish
Fire suppression?
Engine pre oil system


Considering attempting power windows. I have some mechanical engineer friends at work the might like a challenge:)

[Chopper]

Awesome! Very nice build list. Just wait until that Stewart truck rolls up!

Do you have any particular model in mind for the rear view mirror camera at this point? I have been tuning my Type 65 build list and looking at potentially doing the same thing. I figured I wouldn't really know until I could look at the configuration in person.

[Namrups]

Scott, I received my coupe 28 days ago. we have similar build details. (and the same first name!!) Look forward to following your build. Seeing that truck pull up is a life moment you will always remember. Good luck and have fun with your build.

Scott

[65BYBYE]

Scott, I remember the awesome feeling when the truck rolls up with all the good stuff! Enjoy the build.

[slarson]

Awesome! Very nice build list. Just wait until that Stewart truck rolls up!

Do you have any particular model in mind for the rear view mirror camera at this point? I have been tuning my Type 65 build list and looking at potentially doing the same thing. I figured I wouldn't really know until I could look at the configuration in person.

Thanks. I haven't researched rearview cameras much. Rsnake on here used the Autovox T9 and was happy so I will look at that one first.
There's a few other recommendations here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36638-Rear-view-mirror-camera&highlight=rearview

[slarson]

Scott, I received my coupe 28 days ago. we have similar build details. (and the same first name!!) Look forward to following your build. Seeing that truck pull up is a life moment you will always remember. Good luck and have fun with your build.

Scott

Hi Scott, I have been following your story and now build. I'm sure you'll make faster progress than me but it will be fun since I won't be terribly far behind at the start at least.

[Namrups]

Hi Scott, I have been following your story and now build. I'm sure you'll make faster progress than me but it will be fun since I won't be terribly far behind at the start at least.

Glad to have you along for the ride.

[slarson]

Yesterday morning I got a text from Scott (aka Honey Badger) letting me know he would be delivering my kit about 5:00pm. Yay, an excuse to leave work early!!!
He pulled up right on time and within an hour everything was unloaded and he was on his way to Alabama for the next delivery. Of course we were delayed by a few folks that saw the truck and had to stop by to see what was going on.

Scott was great and I couldn't have asked for anything more as far as the delivery.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170096&d=1658888438

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170095&d=1658888438

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170094&d=1658888438

Now to complete the inventory, so far I've gone through four boxes. As everyone has stated, this does take a while but well worth the time investment to learn what parts are where!

[Bob Brandle]

Slarson,

Welcome to the Coupe build journey. Looks like a very familiar build to mine.

I'm installing the Autovox T9 rear view mirror-camera in my Type 65 Coupe. I decided long ago that the narrow-slit view of a pure mechanical rear view mirror wouldn't do it for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170113&d=1658944518

I decided to mount the square camera in a fabricated opening in the ducktail rear spoiler as a compromise in height location. A license plate height location would be too low for anything beyond a backup camera and trying to mount the camera at the top of the roof or inside the rear hatch window wasn't as good and had their own fit and view problems.
With a custom attachment bracket (still TBD) this placement will allow for proper horizontal mounting of the camera.
Luckily, the width of the camera housing and its opening that I've cut in the ducktail is just slightly larger than the typical space between the Shelby dual racing stripes. For the location of the dual racing stripes on the ducktail and rearmost of the body, during painting, they will be set to match the camera opening. With my plans for a medium blue body paint with dual white stripes, the black camera should have some stealthy characteristics. The ducktail will be attached via button head bolts to maintain mounting and accessibility to the camera that's inside.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170114&d=1658944530

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170115&d=1658944542

I'll have an On/Off switch for the AutoVox mirror's power to be able to power it On/Off as desired. As I understand, with power off it still serves marginally with reflective rear viewing, much like a night mirror angle setting. OK for possible power or camera issues.

Bob

[cnutting]

Congrats Scott! Double bonus, leave work early and a new project. Don't forget to photocopy the parts list. Put each page in a sheet protector taped to each box.Makes finding things easier.

[slarson]

Thanks, great idea to put the inventory sheets on the boxes.

With the new printer scanner I just purchased I was able to scan the inventory sheets and create a scannable pdf, I think that will help too.

Just six boxes left and inventory will be complete!

[cnutting]

One other thing that came to mind is you might want to consider getting a thread checker, just to make sure you have the right fastener at each step.

[slarson]

I decided to mount the square camera in a fabricated opening in the ducktail rear spoiler as a compromise in height location. A license plate height location would be too low for anything beyond a backup camera and trying to mount the camera at the top of the roof or inside the rear hatch window wasn't as good and had their own fit and view problems.


Bob, that' a great idea to mount the camera in the spoiler. I've been thinking about a location to mount the camera. I was thinking below the body would be much to low and I don't want any kind of wart on the roof!

[slarson]

Not much build progress over the weekend but a lot of preparation and studying!
Inventory is complete, a few minor additions to the POL for items that were marked as shipped but I could not find.

I am missing a whole box, I have an inventory sheet for box 20 (Front Spindles, hubs and hardware), showing everything checked. However my Loading and Receiving document does not show the my box 20 was loaded on the truck.

Spent a lot of time studying and crawling around the car to familiarize myself with it. Also made some templates to show clearance between the frame and hood.

[rhk118]

Welcome Scott! We have very similar builds, just getting a chance to catch up. Following along. Where did you find a 3.73? I'm considering going with that rather than the 3.55 I picked up.

I had looked at that same rear-view camera that Bob posted and wondering if the camera can be mounted high up inside the rear glass somehow. Sure there will be some distortion but I only care about someone coming up on me quickly and into the blind spot, and hoping to find one of these mirrors that is actually a mirror if the screen isn't on...although that spoiler mount for the camera is pretty slick.

[slarson]

Welcome Scott! We have very similar builds, just getting a chance to catch up. Following along. Where did you find a 3.73? I'm considering going with that rather than the 3.55 I picked up.

Thanks! I got the 3.73 from Midway Mustang. Obviously used, but only 5k miles. It was out of a GT500.

[slarson]

Some progress over the weekend. Although a lot of time is still spend figuring out what I still need and placing orders. Case in point, received windshield wipers from Specialty Power Windows, some rivnuts and fasteners from McMaster-Carr and some raw aluminum pieces from OnlineMetals.

Also, borrowed a radiator pressure test kit from Advance Auto Parts, tested my radiator and all is good, no leaks.

The power steering rack and Breeze offset bushings and three of the four front control arms installed, one of the lowers is missing the metal bushing sleeves.
Also still waiting on my QA1 coilovers.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170719&d=1659913910

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170718&d=1659913910

The 3.73 diff is installed (and snuck out in the garage after dinner and torqued the bolts)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170721&d=1659913910

Got the rear spindles cut and spent some time cleaning up the casting marks, now ready for POR-15.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170720&d=1659913910

[rhk118]

Looking good Scott.

[slarson]

Awesome surprise from the nice FedEx driver today!
Super fast turn around by Russ Thompson for turn signal system and pontoon panels.
And BRAKES!!! I wasn't expecting those for months based on other's posts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171090&d=1660499465

[slarson]

Decided to color match all the suspension pieces, and have a slight contrast from the matte black frame so they are gloss black. The POR-15 process is not fast but I am very happy with the final result.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171167&d=1660616731

The IRS is complete and torqued, now I just need my coil-overs. Gordon Levy said they should ship out this week!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171169&d=1660616731

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=171168&d=1660616731

And I my brakes that arrived yesterday were actually only the fronts, and front spindles were one of the missing items from my kit. Oh well, on to the pedal box, fuel and brake lines.

[slarson]

No build progress for the last three weeks. Two weekends out of town and the long holiday weekend was spent inside not feeling well:(
I have still been doing lots of planning, looking over the car and of course ordering parts.

Spent a weekend at our condo in Sugar Mountain, NC.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172256&d=1662731831

Then a weekend camping in the RV down in the Keys.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172255&d=1662731831

But now I have three days to work on the car and the wife is out of town!:cool::)

[slarson]

Last week I received my coil overs from Levy and rear brakes from Wilwood so I thought I could complete the rear suspension. But the spacers need to be trimmed down for the QA1s. At least they are in place.
Also finally gave me the opportunity to learn safety wiring. One thing I learned was the second twists to end the wire are done counter clockwise to keep the wire from wanting to come up over the bolt head.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172388&d=1663029809

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172387&d=1663029809

Also started fuel system work by mounting the regulator and learning how to assemble braided hoses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172390&d=1663029865

And finally prepped and painted the fuel tank with POR-15 and installed the sending unit and pump.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172386&d=1663029809

[rhk118]

Very clean Scott. Fuel system looking great, like that install. Question on the Aeromotive fuel pump (looks like the 340 liter which is what I am using)...do you use a -6 AN straight cut connector with o-ring on the in and out ports? And do you use thread sealer for the connections to the pump itself?

I am running my front QA1 shocks upright, and my rears will be upside down per rsnake's recommendations for ease of access to the R/C knobs. At least up front with shock upright the spacers needed to be exactly 1/2 inch each (I just cut down the kit ones) and for the bottom mount they needed to be exactly 1/4 inch each (again cut down from the kit ones). Rears aren't installed yet as was waiting on axles from FFR that I now have but need paint.

Did you torque down your front lower control arms yet and if so did you experience any binding?

Hank

[slarson]

Hi Hank,

Very clean Scott. Fuel system looking great, like that install. Question on the Aeromotive fuel pump (looks like the 340 liter which is what I am using)...do you use a -6 AN straight cut connector with o-ring on the in and out ports? And do you use thread sealer for the connections to the pump itself?


I am using 90 degree swivel fittings on the fuel pump in and out (O-ring to 6AN). Fragola part number 499206-BL. I haven't installed them yet(that's the plan for this weekend) but everything looks like it will work.



I am running my front QA1 shocks upright, and my rears will be upside down per rsnake's recommendations for ease of access to the R/C knobs. At least up front with shock upright the spacers needed to be exactly 1/2 inch each (I just cut down the kit ones) and for the bottom mount they needed to be exactly 1/4 inch each (again cut down from the kit ones). Rears aren't installed yet as was waiting on axles from FFR that I now have but need paint.

Thanks for the dimensions, I haven't cut mine down yet. I was asking a mechanical engineer friend at work and he suggested to use a lathe like rsnake used. Good thing I have access to one at work:)
And mine are mounted the same as you describe.



Did you torque down your front lower control arms yet and if so did you experience any binding?

Hank
I have not torqued my front lower control arms. One of them is missing the steel sleeves from the bushings so I am waiting on those.

Scott

[slarson]

Tackled the fuel lines last weekend. I knew it was going to be a challenge, but after a slow start it went pretty smooth. I tried Paul B's method of using 3/8 copper tube to make patterns that were then used to bend the stainless steel lines. I will say I don't see how I would've ever got this done going straight to the stainless lines. I actually ended up cutting the copper into three sections and piecing the run together, marking where the copper overlapped then using that to make one continuous run in the stainless. Once the copper pattern was done bending the stainless went pretty smooth, then it only needed some minor tweaks once in the car.

Pattern and resulting final piece:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172939&d=1663896926

I also finished up the drop trunk. I took a slightly different approach than some. The trunk will be bigger than the opening so there will be a slightly hidden or cave portion on the left side. I wanted to hatch to be centered and symmetrical. This also give a space to put tools, etc out of sight. Of course I came up with this idea after buying material so I decided to piece it together with what I had.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172940&d=1663896926

Hard lines running through the transmission tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172943&d=1663896926

Hard line to fuel filter and return line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172942&d=1663896926

Finished product, I'm happy with how this all turned out considering I've never fabricated anything out of sheet metal or ran brake lines before.
Also had to weld in a piece of steel to support the left side of the hatch floor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172941&d=1663896926

[rhk118]

I like your different approach to the storage box Scott. I definitely see the wisdom in getting some 3/8 copper tubing as well...I've had a difficult time finding 3/8 annealed SS tubing, but found some on Summit with +/- reviews, won't be flaring it so hopefully it at least bends as well as yours appears to have.

[slarson]

I bought my SS tube from Summit, made by Classic Tube. It took effort to bend but still easier than I thought it would be. I used the Eastwood Triple Head 180 degree Tubing Bender, also sprayed WD-40 on the tube before bending to hopefully reduce friction. Not sure if that helped but I am happy with the results.

[slarson]

100+ Day Update

This week it occurred to me that I should be coming up on the 100 day mark after receiving my kit. Well I missed it a little, 116 days actually, but I've been out of town the last two weekends so that puts it about right.
Putting in hours on the build, working lots of different things.

Brake hard lines are complete, as well as the pedal box and reservoirs. However I'm still waiting on front spindles and hubs so I can't install or bleed the front brakes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175076&d=1668797713

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175081&d=1668797878

The Coyote accelerator pedal wasn't quite solid enough with just two mounting points so I fabricated a bracket that pics ups a mounting point on the right side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175082&d=1668797878

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175079&d=1668797713

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175092&d=1668800833

Mounted the battery holder.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175075&d=1668797713

Have spent a lot of time drilling holes. Just the Rear Hatch Floor piece is left for the interior.
Finally received my box of Packaged Aluminum pieces and low and behold, it's missing one of the Radiator Duct Side pieces.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=175080&d=1668797878

And yes, just ordered another pack of 100 Clecos!

[Bob Brandle]

Some nice fitments you've done.
One thought on your custom Coyote accelerator pedal mounting. Make sure that you add lock washers or Loctite or nylock nuts to the securement. You don't want any of the nuts & bolts coming lose during the life of the car and once the sheet metal goes in, you'll not likely have access to tighten up some of them.

[slarson]

Some nice fitments you've done.
One thought on your custom Coyote accelerator pedal mounting. Make sure that you add lock washers or Loctite or nylock nuts to the securement. You don't want any of the nuts & bolts coming lose during the life of the car and once the sheet metal goes in, you'll not likely have access to tighten up some of them.

Thanks Bob! Yes, all of those have Loctite and torqued.

[burchfieldb]

Tackled the fuel lines last weekend. I knew it was going to be a challenge, but after a slow start it went pretty smooth. I tried Paul B's method of using 3/8 copper tube to make patterns that were then used to bend the stainless steel lines. I will say I don't see how I would've ever got this done going straight to the stainless lines. I actually ended up cutting the copper into three sections and piecing the run together, marking where the copper overlapped then using that to make one continuous run in the stainless. Once the copper pattern was done bending the stainless went pretty smooth, then it only needed some minor tweaks once in the car.

Pattern and resulting final piece:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172939&d=1663896926

I also finished up the drop trunk. I took a slightly different approach than some. The trunk will be bigger than the opening so there will be a slightly hidden or cave portion on the left side. I wanted to hatch to be centered and symmetrical. This also give a space to put tools, etc out of sight. Of course I came up with this idea after buying material so I decided to piece it together with what I had.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172940&d=1663896926

Hard lines running through the transmission tunnel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172943&d=1663896926

Hard line to fuel filter and return line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172942&d=1663896926

Finished product, I'm happy with how this all turned out considering I've never fabricated anything out of sheet metal or ran brake lines before.
Also had to weld in a piece of steel to support the left side of the hatch floor.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=172941&d=1663896926

Looking nice! What are you using for your stainless hardline fittings?

[slarson]

Looking nice! What are you using for your stainless hardline fittings?

Thanks, I used Fragola AN to Tube Adapter Fittings 892006-BL(male AN fitting) and 893006-BL(female AN fitting).

[rhk118]

Looking great Scott!

[slarson]

End of the Year Update. Finished Strong after receiving some POL parts

My son is home for Christmas from Colorado so I have some good help. He is excited to work on the car, this is the first time he has seen it in person.
It's amazing how much faster things go with a second pair of capable hands!

I finally received my spindles and hubs from FFR, those were the major POL items I was waiting on.
Since I am still missing the bushing sleeves from one of the lower control arms I decided to order the Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit from Breeze. They are slightly longer than the FFR supplied ones. The rear one is long enough so that the added washer is not required. The ends are also knurled so they can be firmly gripped by the frame tabs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177503&d=1672581132

Lower control arms, spindles and brakes installed:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177504&d=1672581132

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177508&d=1672581200

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177506&d=1672581200

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177502&d=1672581132

[slarson]

Cutting coil over spacers to length

Since I am using the QA1 coil overs, the spacers needed to be shorter than if using the Koni shocks. My original plan was to used a lathe at work, however I never got around to it and didn't want to go in now since I'm on vacation for the last two weeks of the year. So I came up with a plan B using what I have at home. I decided to try drilling a hole in a piece of wood with a Forstner drill bit that was as deep as the final length. Then cut the spacer a little proud of the wood with a cutoff wheel in the grinder, and finally ground it smooth. This method worked out well. All the pieces ended up within 0.015 of the desired length. A little time consuming but what isn't with these builds:D
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177500&d=1672581132

After cutting before grinding smooth:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177507&d=1672581200

The shorter pieces needed a new hole for each one since the heat from cutting and grinding would char the hole and the next one wouldn't fit tightly. For the longer spacers I was able to clamp them in place with a C-clamp.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177501&d=1672581132

[Namrups]

[QUOTE=slarson;513026]End of the Year Update. Finished Strong after receiving some POL parts

My son is home for Christmas from Colorado so I have some good help. He is excited to work on the car, this is the first time he has seen it in person.
It's amazing how much faster things go with a second pair of capable hands!

I finally received my spindles and hubs from FFR, those were the major POL items I was waiting on.
Since I am still missing the bushing sleeves from one of the lower control arms I decided to order the Lower Control Arm Bushing Kit from Breeze. They are slightly longer than the FFR supplied ones. The rear one is long enough so that the added washer is not required. The ends are also knurled so they can be firmly gripped by the frame tabs.

If I'm seeing right the front bolts on the lower control arms have been put in so that the nut is towards the back. If that is indeed the case you might want to reverse them. Once the radiator aluminum is attached you will not be able to remove the bolts with out removing the aluminum also.

[slarson]

If I'm seeing right the front bolts on the lower control arms have been put in so that the nut is towards the back. If that is indeed the case you might want to reverse them. Once the radiator aluminum is attached you will not be able to remove the bolts with out removing the aluminum also.

Hi Scott, thanks for checking. Those bolts just aren't tightened/torqued yet. The nuts are facing forwards.

[slarson]

It's a roller with an engine!

My son and I made a tremendous amount of progress over the last week (at least we think we did:o) Especially considering we both worked full weeks. It was his last week here so we did spend all our free time out in the garage!
We started prepping the Coyote, nothing new to the forum but it was all new to us. All pretty straight forward and no major stumbling blocks.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177901&d=1673319321

Up next was bellhousing alignment, clutch, hydraulic throw out bearing and transmission. Cutting the bottom of the Quicktime bellhousing was straight forward too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177902&d=1673319321

Once again, major kudos to Paul B for his write up on installing the Coyote in the Gen 3 coupe. Again, the first time either one of us had dropped an engine into a car. The only issue we had was initially assembling one of the engine mounts upside down. That didn't take long to figure out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177900&d=1673319321

And for the first time the body is now off the chassis.

Then it was simply bolting the wheels on, take it off the jack stands and roughly setting the ride height and alignment (so it at least looks kind of straight ;))

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177899&d=1673319321

And for an anti-climactic finish we made one of the radiator tunnel side pieces since I only received one and got that aluminum drilled.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177898&d=1673319321

[Nigel Allen]

G'day Scott,

that's some really nice work.

Cheers,

Nige

[slarson]

Foot boxes and a few weekends away

With the body off I was able to get the footboxes drilled.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179352&d=1675651132

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179353&d=1675651132

Also got the radiator and Boig Cool tubes mocked up and tunnel aluminum drilled
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178151&d=1673807171

Then was out of town the last two weekends. A weekend skiiing up in North Carolina.

Last weekend was camping at the ROLEX 24 in Daytona, we've been going for quite a few years now. To make it a special weekend, my son flew in from Colorado just for the race!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179365&d=1675652311

[slarson]

Coyote Coolant Expansion Tank

I've been struggling to find a spot I liked for the Moroso coolant expansion tank. I was originally going to place it in the same location as Paul. But one fitting seemed to be in the way of the frame in front, and it also seemed to interfere with the air filter and intake.
After quite some time moving it around and evaluating fitting and hose routing this seemed to be the best place, although not the easiest to implement.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179351&d=1675651132

This location would require welding new mounting tabs on the sides of the tank, cutting off a mount on the bottom and fabricating a mounting bracket to pick up a third point on the tank.

So into the scrap metal bin I went and came up with a plan. I've had the TIG welder for almost a year now, it was finally time to put it to real use as opposed to practicing. Not the prettiest welds but they are mostly hidden and will do the job.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179361&d=1675651304

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179360&d=1675651304

I'm very pleased with how it turned out and it is very solid. With plenty of clearance for the steering shaft and hoses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179362&d=1675651304

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179350&d=1675651132

[slarson]

Engine Bay Panels and the start of wiringIt's been a busy spring with work being crazy (but the OT helps pay for car parts:cool:). And the annual trip to the Gatornationals that my son came home from Denver for, I think this was our 24th year in a row.

Since the last update the focus has been on developing a plan for wiring and final placement of all things in the engine bay. I decided to mount the Coyote computer on the back firewall, so that meant the engine harness had to be reworked so it would reach the computer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184437&d=1683990097

Had to extend about 20 wires, not as bad as I thought it might be. Just time consuming and tedious.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184438&d=1683990097

Next up was fabricating some additional aluminum panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184434&d=1683990097

Mounted the Coyote fuse box up front by the battery. This makes more work(I seem to be good at doing that) but it just seemed to be a logical place to put it close to the battery. I also ended up choosing a remote battery disconnect that is cable actuated so it could be close to the battery.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184436&d=1683990097

Also got the heater and AC hoses mocked up and cut to length, nothing crimped yet though. To solve the issue of the AC bulkhead fittings not lining up with the evaporator fittings was to remove the bracket that holds the two bulkhead fittings together. I cut D shaped holes in the panel, placing them as close together as possible. Everything seems to line up ok. Also chose to mount the heater valve inside the footbox, still need to fabricate a mounting bracket for that.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184461&d=1683994127

So far I'm happy how things are turning out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184459&d=1683990459

[slarson]

The other London...
Not build related, but an incredible experience for my wife and I was a trip to the U.K. last month. The primary purpose was to run the London Marathon. All I can say is what an experience!!! We have run the major marathons here in the US and the crowds in London were over the top! We have now both completed four of the six Major Marathons in the world, just Tokyo and Berlin remain (and we are scheduled for Berlin this fall).

A small sample of the incredible places we experienced.

Westminster Abbey and the clock tower where Big Ben lives (Big Ben is the nickname of the bell)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184457&d=1683990459

Windsor castle, the lower portion built in 11th century
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184460&d=1683990459

Also visited Edinburgh for a few days
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184452&d=1683990459

Now back to the build!

[460.465USMC]

Hi Scott. Just read through your build. I think you're making great progress, and not a little ingenuity along the way. Your build looks really clean, and professional. Keep up the good work. I'm subscribed and looking forward to your next progress update.

P.S. my wife and I are just finishing up The Crown series on Netflix. Probably about as close to London as we'll get. So cool you and your wife saw it in person, and checked off another big marathon. Impressive.

[Indy Shu]

Scott,
Your build is looking good. A couple of thoughts looking at your updates.
1. I also put the heater valve inside the footbox. It's a tight fit and with hoses coming out both sides I didn't see the need to mount it to anything as it seems very secure.
2. With regard to the oil cooler location, I can tell you just from a few heat cycles in the driveway, when the fan comes on that air is HOT! Would be nice to mount the cooler in front or in a different spot, but not a lot of options. Maybe the concentration of heat won't be as bad while driving down the road. I put a small steering fluid cooler on the engine side of that panel.

My 27 yr old son who lives in Boulder is also a runner. Has run Chicago and Boston, among a few smaller ones. I think he's shooting for Berlin sometime soon. Has one in Ogden Utah this Saturday.

[slarson]

Thanks Chris, some friends we traveled to London with mentioned the Crown series. I wish I would've know about that before our trip, they said it helped provide a lot of history about the things we were seeing. We also couldn't help but notice just how nice everyone was!


Scott,
1. I also put the heater valve inside the footbox. It's a tight fit and with hoses coming out both sides I didn't see the need to mount it to anything as it seems very secure.
2. With regard to the oil cooler location, I can tell you just from a few heat cycles in the driveway, when the fan comes on that air is HOT! Would be nice to mount the cooler in front or in a different spot, but not a lot of options. Maybe the concentration of heat won't be as bad while driving down the road. I put a small steering fluid cooler on the engine side of that panel.

My 27 yr old son who lives in Boulder is also a runner. Has run Chicago and Boston, among a few smaller ones. I think he's shooting for Berlin sometime soon. Has one in Ogden Utah this Saturday.

John, thanks for the input. I looking at the heater control valve over the weekend, trying to determine how best to fabricate a bracket to hold it and came to the same conclusion.
I was concerned about location of the PS cooler and the hot air coming out of the radiator. Obviously I'm committed so we'll see how it works, worst case I can always fabricate some ducts to bring cool air to it :)
And congrats to your son, and definitely have him add the London Marathon to his list!

[burchfieldb]

Your build is looking super nice! I also put the bypass switch inside, but pushed out the footbox to get it tucked in, and also to be able to close it off to try to keep the heat out of the footbox. I was able to use the supplied bracket, but ended up bending the top mounting tab in 180 degrees, put in rivnuts, and put screws in from the outside.

184732
184733

[slarson]

Your build is looking super nice! I also put the bypass switch inside, but pushed out the footbox to get it tucked in, and also to be able to close it off to try to keep the heat out of the footbox. I was able to use the supplied bracket, but ended up bending the top mounting tab in 180 degrees, put in rivnuts, and put screws in from the outside.

184732
184733

Thank you! I didn't think about modifying the footbox, great idea. I plan on putting insulation on the heater hoses inside the footbox to cut down on the radiated heat.

[slarson]

Radiator and Condenser mounting
Finished the final details of mounting the radiator and Condenser. I am using the same condenser that Paul and others have used, Vintage Air part number 03263-VUC.
To start, I wasn't wild about the skinny brackets and slit fuel hose that the radiator is supposed to rest on. I decided to form and weld in some some 0.040 sheet metal U shaped pieces for the radiator to sit in. Those are then lined with Radiator Rubber Mounting pads from Summit (part number SUM-380666).
Also welded in some 1/4" think metal bar to protect the bottom of the radiator, thanks to Rsnake for this idea!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184453&d=1683990459

Painted with POR-15 and rubber pads installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184454&d=1683990459

Didn't like the idea of a button head screw possibly banging into the radiator so I decided to use flat head screws for the condenser straps.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184455&d=1683990459

Using the same rubber pads under the strap that holds the top of the radiator. To account for the added thickness I had to make some shims to go under the strap.
Left side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184697&d=1684460854

Right side was a little different, I didn't like the angle the strap had coming down to the frame:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184696&d=1684460854

Now the strap runs down along the side of the radiator. From inside the radiator tunnel:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184698&d=1684460854

Finally, I didn't like the plastic spacers for mounting the evaporator so I purchased a 1/2" x 5/8" aluminum bar. Four holes and I like it much better:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184768&d=1684719699

[slarson]

Finally back at it
After an unexpected year off from the build(for good reasons), I'm back at it!
In June of last year my wife decided she was tired of the beachside barrier island area where we lived due mainly to traffic and noise, not to mention ridiculous insurance rates. We found a newer house on almost 3 acres about 20 miles south in an equestrian community, and as a major bonus it had a 1500 square foot building!
So began the scramble of buying, selling and then the moving. We've been in the new house 11 months, after getting settled into the house a lot of time was spent moving into the shop and making it useable. I'm not done (probably never will be) but it's at a point where I can spend time on the Coupe again. The last few months have been spent getting reacquainted with the car and figuring out where I left off.

The back yard:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202738&d=1723512994

The shop, started with just an empty metal building and only 6 outlets, and no 220V drops. So added four 220V outlets, two additional circuits of 120V outlets, Plywood on the walls, made and installed cabinets, bought more cabinets, made shelving and this is the current state:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202739&d=1723512994

More to come about the progress that has been made on the kit. The major accomplishment was the engine bay aluminum went out and is back from powder coating!

[460.465USMC]

Welcome back, Scott. I can't believe it's been over a year since your last build update. I really enjoyed following your build last year. Will be taking some notes since my Coupe build is now underway.

I hear you on the house move. I did the same thing. Been in my "new" (built in 1907) place for 10 months. I also inherited a metal building. It was an empty shell. So, spent the entire winter getting it up to speed. It's much smaller than my last garage, so every square inch has a purpose.

Looking forward to seeing your build progress. Just received my Gen 4 Coyote. Trying to figure out how to get it off the pallet using my HF engine hoist. The pallet is too wide for the hoist legs. Will probably cut down the pallet with my Sawzall in order to slide the hoist into position.

[slarson]

Thanks Chris, it surprised me how long it took to get a new shop space organized and functional! Mine is bigger than my previous garage, I can't imagine having to go from large to smaller. That would be no easy task!

My Gen 3 Coyote was mounted to a small metal stand that was mounted to the pallet. If I remember right I was able to unbolt it and slide the engine towards the corner of the pallet and the engine hoist straddled that corner and was able to pick it up. Then I cut down the pallet so it would fit between the engine hoist, put casters on it and used that to store the engine until it went in the car.

[460.465USMC]

Good idea to slide it toward a corner. Didn't think of that. Not sure it would have made a difference in my case, as that would take some serious muscle!

It was Sawzall to the rescue. Was able to narrow the pallet so the hoist could straddle it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203149&d=1724680897


Good to have it off the pallet. I like your idea of putting it on casters. As I mentioned my new garage space is much smaller (half the square feet). Easily moving it around would be big help. Thanks for the idea!

This Gen 4 looks an awful lot like a Gen 3. Really can't see any difference so far, besides the reported header flange bolt pattern difference on the left side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203150&d=1724680897

Sorry to hi-jack your build thread for a minute. I'll be quiet now. Happy building!

[slarson]

Making Progress, working towards first start
I've been hard at it, but I am way behind in updates.

Engine compartment panels are back from powder coat (post on how I filled unwanted holes to come)
Footbox and engine compartment aluminum panels are installed
Brakes are bled
Fuel lines and regulator are back in and double checked to be tight
Engine and transmission are in for the final time
Engine PCM is mounted and wired
Fuse box is in and wiring is at least separated and routed to front, rear and dash



Fuel Regulator and fire suppression lines
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204980&d=1728263491


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205002&d=1728264149

I choose not use the standard Ron Francis wiring harness, mainly because I wanted extra circuits for various functins I wanted to add. After much searching I decided to go with the KwikWire 22 circuit harness.
So far I am happy with that decision. Once the fuse box was mounted I struggled with how to route the various groups of wires as they were grouped out of the box. I finally came to the realization that this is not a typical installation so their grouping/routing wasn't going to work for me. Once I cut all the zip ties and had just a mess of wires, the sorting, organization and routing became much easier.

Fuse Box Mounted and drip cover
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204983&d=1728263491

Wires from fuse box back into car. Top view of fuse box drip guard
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204989&d=1728263615

The first electrical connections
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204982&d=1728263491

Just A few wires to go
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204984&d=1728263491

[slarson]

Filling unwanted panel holes
Most, if not all of the FFR sheet metal screw holes used to mount the panels for shipping didn't line up with my rivet spacing. So I quickly gave in to the fact that I would need to fill the unwanted holes and moved on with drilling and fitting panels. I searched for solutions and found many that some claimed to work but none that sounded like they were guaranteed, other than TIG welding which I attempted but am nowhere near good enough. So I choose to fill the holes with Low Temperature Aluminum Welding Rods from Harbor Freight.

First I used my hold deburring countersink tool to create a bevel/countersink on each side of the panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205008&d=1728265103

Then using a propane torch, heated up the panel until the rod flowed into the hole, kind of like soldering, heat is slowly until the metal is hot enough to melt the filler. This took a few practice runs but was quick once I got the hang of it.
Top side after adding filler:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205007&d=1728265103

Bottom side after adding filler:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205010&d=1728265103

Then sand the filler down with 50 grit followed by 120 grit sanding disks in a 4.5" angle grinder. This is where is pays to go slow and remove a little at time.
This was one of the trial runs, my technique got better as I went.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205009&d=1728265103

Final result and I can't find any of the repairs in my coated panels. There was a filled hole just right of the top center rivet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204981&d=1728263491

I'm sure the textured powder coat helps hide some imperfections.

[JimStone]

Filling unwanted panel holes
Most, if not all of the FFR sheet metal screw holes used to mount the panels for shipping didn't line up with my rivet spacing. So I quickly gave in to the fact that I would need to fill the unwanted holes and moved on with drilling and fitting panels. I searched for solutions and found many that some claimed to work but none that sounded like they were guaranteed, other than TIG welding which I attempted but am nowhere near good enough. So I choose to fill the holes with Low Temperature Aluminum Welding Rods from Harbor Freight.

First I used my hold deburring countersink tool to create a bevel/countersink on each side of the panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205008&d=1728265103

Then using a propane torch, heated up the panel until the rod flowed into the hole, kind of like soldering, heat is slowly until the metal is hot enough to melt the filler. This took a few practice runs but was quick once I got the hang of it.
Top side after adding filler:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205007&d=1728265103

Bottom side after adding filler:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205010&d=1728265103

Then sand the filler down with 50 grit followed by 120 grit sanding disks in a 4.5" angle grinder. This is where is pays to go slow and remove a little at time.
This was one of the trial runs, my technique got better as I went.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205009&d=1728265103

Final result and I can't find any of the repairs in my coated panels. There was a filled hole just right of the top center rivet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204981&d=1728263491

I'm sure the textured powder coat helps hide some imperfections.

That's pretty cool.

Those self tapping screw holes from the factory really irritated me. I wish they'd just tape the panels, or leave them off the body, instead of having to deal with of their haphazard holes everywhere

I might try your method

[burchfieldb]

Glad to see this worked. This was also the plan I had to try to fill the holes, but had not got around to it yet.

[slarson]

Glad to see this worked. This was also the plan I had to try to fill the holes, but had not got around to it yet.

Yes, it was actually quicker and easier than I thought it would be. Just have to go slow with the grinder and practice a few time on scraps before attempting a real panel.
I can't see a single patch in my panels, although I did go with a textured powder coat so that helps hide imperfections.

[slarson]

Saving partially used Silkaflex caulking tubes
I stuck a nail in a partially used tube of Silkaflex a few months ago, hoping I would be able to use it later.... Well, I tried to get the nail out and it wouldn't budge. So I had the thought of slicing the tip length wise to see if the nail and dried up caulking would come out. Sure enough it worked like a charm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204987&d=1728263615

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204986&d=1728263615

The to fix the tip I just put on two pieces of heat shrink tubing, worked like a charm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204985&d=1728263615

[slarson]

Protecting Braided Sleeving when installing Heat Shrink tubing
The braided expandable sleeve I'm using to cover some hoses and wiring seems to have a low melting temperature. I've noticed it start to melt when shrinking a piece of heat shrink to finish off the end.
I had a few small pieces of Thermo-Tec Express Sleeve left over so I tried using that as a shield around the braided sleeving. Worked like a charm!

The Express Sleeve is a velcro closure so super easy to put on and take off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204994&d=1728263782

[slarson]

Horn Mount Bracket
There seemed to be a nice empty space behind my battery to mount the horns, just needed to fabricate a bracket from some scrap metal lying around.

A piece of 3/4" angle iron and a two short pieces of 1.5" x 1/8" flat bar.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204996&d=1728263782

Horns mounted
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204997&d=1728263782

And two 1/4" rivnuts into the frame triangluation bars and good to go.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205001&d=1728263874

[slarson]

First Start Birthday Present!!!
My son has been home for a few weeks and we've been cleaning up loose ends in prepping for the first start.
After a few setbacks and trouble shooting the first start occurred Monday and it just happened to be my birthday:o:cool:


https://youtu.be/IgzVThOJRto

Now all that's left is everything else!

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Congrats, Scott! And, happy birthday! Very cool it all worked out to fire it off while your son was there.