Basic fabrication tools

[Alec]

Hey guys - I was wondering what the basic toolset is for simple fabrication work; making things like mounting brackets out of aluminum or alloy or steel (i.e. to mount the remote triple reservoir or e-stopp actuator to frame tubing). I don't have much extra space for power tools in my garage, and I don't want to have any more than I really need. I do want to feel like I made some of the parts on my build, and I want those parts/brackets to look good and function well.

I was thinking that the minimum necessary would be:
Cutting: 1. angle grinder with a 3" cutting wheel; 2. tin snips. (already have). I'm hoping to not have to get a metal band saw.
Smoothing rough cuts/rounding: bench-top 1" x30" belt/ 5"disk sander ($85 at harbor freight)
Drilling bolt holes: 8" or 10" bench-top drill press with a vice ($90-$160) (or a hand drill which I have)

If I need to bend sheet metal I can use a form and a soft hammer. 90 degree bends in a vice over some longer angle stock. For bending 1/8" aluminum or similar - just buy angle instead???

[rthomas98]

Depends on what you are making. A harbor freight sheetmetal brake is only $45 and doesn't take a lot of room.
For the tin snips make sure you have the red/yellow/green ones. Helps with angle cuts. Larger cuts just know the measurements a lot of places will do it for a nominal fee if you don't want to get a band saw. I used Alro for some of my larger cuts particularly in thicker metals.
Drilling holes I went back and forth between drill press and handheld drill. Windshield frame I used the drill press. But my brake reservoir bracket I used a hand drill.

[Alec]

What are some examples of parts I might need/want to fab from sheet metal? I was mostly thinking about 1/8" stock for mounting brackets.
I just discovered that I have a metal supplier that does custom cuts of anything for walk-in customers, just 5 miles from home (initials are M.S.). Score!

[edwardb]

The tools you list will work for simple stuff. Especially made from aluminum. Steel is more difficult with just hand tools. I have a Milwaukee Portaband on a table that I use all the time instead of a hack saw. But didn't have it for some of my early builds. With some decent files and a bench vise, you can clean up most anything.

.040 aluminum bends quite easily and nicely with the mentioned H-F brake. Often parts don't need any thicker material than that, e.g. panels, boxes, etc. Used one of those for a while too until I broke down a bought a real box brake. Thicker aluminum is a little harder to bend, but have done my share clamped between angle iron in a bench vise.

I'm not a big tin snips guy. But I know many use them.

[J R Jones]

You will be buying tools from start to finish, sometimes similar but larger tools, sometimes basic, sometimes powered.
You may feel guilty in the early stages but justification can and will be rationalized. (I wish I had bought this earlier)
jim

[Chopper]

Another tool that may be of use is a jig saw. I don't think I would buy one just for an FFR build, but if you have one laying around, getting a fine metal blade also helps to work aluminum parts.

[Alan_C]

If you have a metal supplier local to you, you can likely get metal bent to shape. As said, I have and used the HF bending brake to bend a few aluminum panels to a 90 degree angle.
When making brackets from thicker steel, like angle, I used a sawzall to make the cuts and then cleaned them up on a grinder.
A good 6" vise is highly recommended, a smaller one might do but later you will wish you had a bigger one.
A hand nibbler or electric metal sheers make quick work of shaping aluminum or steel sheet metal panels.
Invest in a good brake flaring tool set like the one Eastwood makes. Good flares are needed for leak free connections. A good hand held tubing bender will be needed to to bend your brake lines to shape.
A good cordless drill motor like from DeWalt or others will go a long way to drilling all those holes. I found a 90 degree drill comes in handy in tight areas.
Buy good #30, one size larger than 1/8", drill bits as you will go through a bunch. Having good 3/16" bits is good too, not just as many.
When you get to wiring the car, a good digital multimeter will come in handy for doing continuity checks and measuring voltage. If you buy something good like a Fluke will last a lifetime.
Depending on how you plan to work under the vehicle, a good set of four jack stands with a light weight jack will be necessary. Some have used the scissor lifts, it is up to the builder. I am using a MaxJax lift now on another build, I could not do what I am doing without it.
When buying tools, if they are going to get used a lot, buy good ones. For limited use, some of the HF stuff is OK.
Buy as you go as it is hard to predict all the tools you will feel you need.

[Jacob McCrea]

Bench top disk sanders are nice to have, and compliment a bench grinder nicely. I have a metal chop saw, rather than a band saw. It does everything a band saw does, and probably more, but makes a mess. Bench top drill presses are nice, and allow for more precise drilling with an accompanying vise. But whatever else you do, I suggest you buy the biggest bench-mounted manual hand shear you can find. For $130 or so they are incredibly useful. I have a stomp shear for sheet metal, but the hand shear is really nice for thicker metal, and would be acceptable for thin stuff too.

[Mike.Bray]

You will use a vice more then anything. But don't buy a cheap HF one, I've actually seen them break in half. Buy a good quality one like a Wilton. Splurge, you won't regret it. I have a 4" Wilton machinist vice that I took the serrated jaws to a machine shop and had them grind them smooth so they don't mark my parts.

[Nigel Allen]

X2 on Mike's recommendation for a good vice. Add soft jaws to the list.
Also, good marking out tools:
-fine point sharpies
-digital vernier
- quality ruler 6 and 12 inch
- scriber
- adjustable combination engineers square.
- centre punch
-quality bright lighting over bench.

Built my car including a lot of fabrication requirements for right-hand drive and to meet stringent requirements in Australia, with a quality battery electric drill, so do not see a need for a drill press, unless you really want one. Whilst a belt sander/ disc sander is another nice thing to have it is not a requirement if you have a decent set of files. Same goes for the bench grinder which you can't use for aluminium anyway. I could afford to buy these items but didn't because I just don't have the space.
I consider a good quality vacuum cleaner a must, especially for small workshop areas where you are doing dirty work such as drilling, on the same bench that you also need to do clean work I.e. assembling brake components for example. Swarf and filings go everywhere and are best cleaned up straight away, so the vacuum cleaner was always plugged in and ready to go.

[Rdone585]

An alternative to machining the jaws on a vice are to have a pair of aluminum angle pieces (e.g. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2") the length of the jaws. Hang them connected together by a chain and near the vice when not in use. Then when you don't' want to mar the pieces your working with just lay the angle over each of the jaws.
Unless you have Popeye arms, you might enjoy using a battery powered rivet gun. I really like the M12 Milwaukee, but there are others. I just wish they were around when I first built mine. When I first started riveting, I went to sleep many nights with sore arms.
You will wear out many of the drill bits for rivets (1/8" or #30 as mentioned above). As soon as they start getting dull, toss it to the side and use a new one. Either resharpen or just toss.

[Chopper]

. I really like the M12 Milwaukee, but there are others. I just wish they were around when I first built mine. When I first started riveting, I went to sleep many nights with sore arms.

That's a pretty good tip. I used a air powered rivet gun in my build...did the job, but battery powered would keep you from listening to the compressor refill endlessly...

A rivet spacing tool is also pretty helpful. Factory Five gives you a basic version with the kit, but better ones can be had. It's absolute not necessary...but if you're sort of OCD like I am, it may help with that :)

A rivnut tool is also useful, but again not mandatory by any stretch.

-Brandon

[Jim Stabe]

You will use a vice more then anything. But don't buy a cheap HF one, I've actually seen them break in half. Buy a good quality one like a Wilton. Splurge, you won't regret it. I have a 4" Wilton machinist vice that I took the serrated jaws to a machine shop and had them grind them smooth so they don't mark my parts.

HF does have some very good vises but you will spend more money than the cheapos cost. I got this one with a discount coupon after breaking a cheaper vise in half and am very impressed with it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-swivel-vise-with-anvil-and-pipe-jaws-57738.html

[Hacksaw84]

I suggest adding a rotary tool (like a Dremel) especially with the flexible extension.

[Rdone585]

Another tool if you don't already have them, are clecos. They let you temporarily hold a panel in place while you drill more holes or fit another panel. I'd suggest a dozen or more.

[Mike.Bray]

For drill bits be sure and get split point as they drill better and stay centered. I pay a little more for TIN coating but for these cars probably not really necessary. Look at McMaster Carr #2416A15

I have a pneumatic rivet gun and have used it once, on the 3/16" stainless rivets on the Breeze battery box. FFR supplies all aluminum rivets and either I have "Popeye arms" or they're just easy to pull as I don't strain at all with my hand gun. And it's not like you're pulling a thousand rivets at a time. FWIW

Covering your vice jaws with aluminum angle pieces will work and I've done it, and absolutely hated it. It seems like you spend half your time fiddling with the angle pieces as you do doing the work. I ground my vice jaws smooth over 30 years ago and can't think of a single time I wish I hadn't.

[Rdone585]

Mike, good to know your experience with the angle. I use them at a friends house who regularly changes his race cars, but he rarely works with pieces that he cares about how they look. I now see the wisdom in what you have chosen to do since most of the parts we make for our cars will have much more visibility.

[Otee453]

I’ll be different…. Don’t buy anything for fab work until you need it, with a couple exceptions. Bench vise & tin snips. You’ll need those for the build. You could end up buying a bunch of stuff you could’ve got by without or you could’ve bought the part cheaper than making it.
If you’re just excited to outfit your shop, then go for it. That’s fun to do too

[emac]

I built my MKIV ten years ago with just basic tools. I think clecos, rivnuts, and tubing flare tool were some of the tools I did not have prior to the build. Oh, I also used weather pack connectors so I bought the crimp tool for them.

My advice is to search the forum prior to the next step you are about to start. It will really help you to understand what you are getting ready to do, and how you may want to deviate from the manual for a custom feature.

[facultyofmusic]

+1 on getting a good vise. I have a broken/bent vise sitting in the shack in the shame corner.

On angle grinders: I've spent so much time changing between my cutting and flapping wheel that I honestly wish I got two grinders. A wired for high power continuous use; a battery powered one for actually grinding things on the car or just for general convenience.

I'm aware there's this x-lock quick change system, but that requires special wheels and I really don't feel like locking myself into some proprietary wheel design.