'33 Gen1 clutch master cylinder replacement without removing the body?

[FF33rod]

Is this possible? has anyone done it?

So taking the '33 to the first out of town car show, has just over 1500 miles and has been on the road for just over a year. Got on and off the ferry okay but 15 minutes into the drive to the city and bam the clutch goes to the floor. Long story short, it's the wilwood master cylinder that's failed. Didn't make it to the car show and I have a shop that's going to try to replace the cylinder tomorrow. But here's what I'm wondering.....

Access to the cylinder is an absolute bear but I think undoing all the lines and the mounting nuts is possible. That said, is there enough room to push the cylinder towards the dash to clear the mounting studs and get the cylinder out. I have a bad feeling the 90 degree elbow that the hydraulic line is attached to is going to hit the dash before the mounts clear the peddle box studs. I'm home now and the car isn't so I can't go check. Might as well not have the shop waste their time if the process is impossible with the body on. (As I mentioned, this is gen 1, the dash is not removable)

Steve

[svassh]

I just installed my wilwood pedals (clutch cable though) it was tedious but not impossible. I had to drop the steering column on mine, I assume you would have to also to drop the pedal set. What made mine a bit easier was I have a large gauge cluster in the center of the dash that is not installed yet so easy access to the top.

[RoadRacer]

If you haven't cut the center of the dash out and made it removable, that would help a lot.

Not being facetious, but that improvement to the gen2 dash makes this much easier. I was lucky to waste so much time saving for stage 2 that I got a Gen2 body on my gen 1 frame. Sure glad I waited!

[FF33rod]

I just installed my wilwood pedals (clutch cable though) it was tedious but not impossible. I had to drop the steering column on mine, I assume you would have to also to drop the pedal set. What made mine a bit easier was I have a large gauge cluster in the center of the dash that is not installed yet so easy access to the top.

I do have the hole cut in the cowl for access to the top of the pedal box, so between that and coming from underneath I think it's covered. I'm more concerned about the space between the end of the master cylinder and the back of the dash - if it's smaller than the length of the mounting studs for the cylinder I'm dead in the water....

[FF33rod]

Well I just got a call from the shop doing the work and as I suspected NO DICE. The cylinder moved about 3/8 inch and then hits the dash. It needs to move about another 3/8 to clear the studs..... Guess I'm going to have to come up with a cool looking dash plaque to cover the hole - cool suggestions are welcome.....

Steve

[Brave Salmon]

easy fix, have the shop remove the 4 bolts holding the pedal box to the frame and slide it forward enough to get the cylinder out. All that is easy if the cowl is cut and i did it numerous times on my gen 1.

[FF33rod]

easy fix, have the shop remove the 4 bolts holding the pedal box to the frame and slide it forward enough to get the cylinder out. All that is easy if the cowl is cut and i did it numerous times on my gen 1.

Excellent! will look at that. Shortly after posting the update above, they informed me that they managed to get it out without cutting - the AC vent was close enough to be able to wiggle things around and use that hole to help with the clearance so I think I'm good for now. However, this is excellent info for future!! Thank you

Steve