Junbug's Colorado Mk IV Coyote/TKX Build Thread: Registered and a VIN! [Archive]

Junbug

07-18-2022, 07:29 PM

So I finally pulled the trigger and ordered my Mk IV complete kit. This is a build i'm doing with my son to build a cruiser/driver not a track car. He just turned 16 and loves cars so we're both looking forward to getting our hands dirty and building this together. Below are a few of the basic details of the kit and other pieces I plan to order. As I'm relatively amateur I'm open to questions, suggestions and recommendations.

Ordered 6/30/2022, Estimated Ship Date 1/14/2023
Mk IV complete Kit, Powdercoated Chassis, and body cutouts
Coyote Full Length Ball Headers Assembly
31 Spline IRS 10.50' Driveshaft
Black Vinyl Seats
2015 IRS Parts Kit
FFR GPS Gauge Set
Wind Wings
Sun Visors
Wiper Kit
CF Dash w/ Glove Box
Right Side Rollbar
14" Leather Steering Wheel
Trunk Gas Strut Kit
Gen 3 Coyote Install Kit
2018 IRS 3.55 Center Section and Spindles
Wildwood Front and Back Brakes
Gen 3 Coyote, EFI from Mike Forte with a TKX 5 speed manual transmission
Also plan on buying my own wheels/tires. I really like the look of the 25th Anniversary wheels so any suggestions on where to buy similar wheels that fit over the Wildwood brakes would be appreciated.

Additions:
Russ Thompson turn indicator
Drop Trunk
Pipes (Gas-n Touring, eventually)
Breeze: Front battery mount, all of the radiator mounting parts, storage cubby panel
Seat Heaters
Removable Hard top (eventually)

So what am i missing? I appreciate the expertise on this forum (been lurking for about a year, and have read/re-read numerous build threads) and hope to correct any errors or add additional parts before my January 2023 ship date!

John Ibele

07-19-2022, 01:26 PM

Oh man, you deserve a way better welcome to the madness than this. Welcome and congratulations!! You've picked a great adventure, and it's really cool that you've got another car guy to go along on the journey with you. I took my two sons to build school years ago and it was a memorable experience for all of us. My boys helped with the build here and there, but to be honest, I slowed them down, and years later they help out whenever I ask as I continue to plug away with the time I have available.

Your choices already show that you've done plenty of reading, and the things you've selected seem to line up well with the cruiser / driver objectives you stated at the top. Others have stressed the value of having these cars match what we have in our daily drivers as much as possible, both for safety but also for enjoyment. You've got a number of those things in your list. For driveability I think the first thing most builders look at is power steering, and you have that in your list. From everything I've read, a good choice, and hard to see anything you're giving up in the process, unless you've alway had a secret desire for Popeye forearms, or breaking into a sweat as you turn your steering wheel in a parking lot. Two big plusses: easier turning, but perhaps as important, the ability to run with higher caster and therefore better tracking and stability at cruising speeds. All in line with the 'make it drive like your daily driver' idea. With the Coyote as your engine choice, you really don't have to choose between cruiser / driver or performance / Autox ... you get it all in one package. Just get your right foot gradually further into it, and your well-mannered cruiser will feel, sound and act like something very different. I didn't go that route, perferring to stick with a 302-heritage pushrod engine, but it's a great choice and again no way to see anything to question there. If I were to start over (egads...) I might go that direction myself.

To your other questions:

Drop trunk: Can't go wrong with Russ's offering. I don't weld and I don't modify the frame, and so his kit worked very well for me. I wouldn't skip getting the extra space no matter what choice you make.
Seat Heaters: CobraHeat is one manufacturer many, including me, have used. I've installed, wired and tested mine and so far I feel they're a quality piece, but others have more experience.
Head Rests: You'll find lots of threads on seat choice and the relative importance of high back vs. low back seats. Many look at this as a vehicle which doesn't fit the safety profile of a daily driver no matter what you do: limited envelope of a small / low car, no advanced warning / sensor devices, no air bags, etc ... and the low back seat is just one example of among many. So, many end up preferring the looks and good use of limited space that comes with the FFR lowback seats. Others get high back or low back alternatives depending on their focus on safety or legroom. But ... you can find head rest options that tie into the rollbars, FWIW.

That's the stuff I can help with, but I expect others will chime in. As you already know, you've got plenty of expertise happy to answer any questions you have right here on the forum. Cheers! -- John

PS ... and since you put this note in the 'Build Threads' section, I'm assuming it's the first post in your build thread. Good for you. I'd recommend doing one ... every builder likes looking at the forum for ideas, and everyone contributes something. For a first time builder or for those with limited experience, there are helpful folks willing to point out anything that doesn't look right as you share your progress.

CaptB

07-19-2022, 01:30 PM

Forte's has seat heaters.

Chopper

07-19-2022, 02:17 PM

460.465USMC

07-19-2022, 06:52 PM

Welcome aboard, Junbug! Always fun to see another builder join the fun. You have a very similar build list to mine in terms of drivetrain, rear suspension, and brakes. I also bought my drivetrain (TKO600 at the time) from Forte, but bought my power steering from F5.

I guess the silver lining for the long wait is you get to plan and change your mind a-plenty on options before your kit arrives. Congrats on your purchase!

nucjd19

07-19-2022, 07:27 PM

Hello and welcome. Looks like you're off to a good start with a very well optioned roadster.

I would recommend looking into a driveshaft loop (Forte sells one that fits the MKIV), or many other options (Summit, Jegs, etc), and also a SFI steel bellhousing. I believe Forte will cut them down to clear the frame rails (otherwise they hang below), or you can source separately and cut yourself with a metal bandsaw, angle grinder, etc.

One other thing to note is you will have to modify the glovebox on the dash in order for the heater to fit, or locate the heater differently than factory five's default location.

Agree about the driveshaft loop. I picked up a metco loop and installed on my rig. The idea of the driveshaft spinning right beside my lateral hip as well as the passenger unnerves me a bit. Really good folks here. I consider many my friends and they really want you to succeed.

edwardb

07-20-2022, 04:50 AM

Welcome and congratulations on your kit order. You're in for an excellent adventure. The build is a blast (at least it is for me...) and the final result isn't bad either. :cool: Not much to add for your configuration. Highly optioned and will be a very nice result. You questioned the power steering from Factory Five. For the Coyote, they sell the KRC setup made specifically for the Coyote. It's a high quality product. I've used it on a couple builds and have been very happy with it. Hopefully you've seen several posts where it's described to put the lowest rated flow valve on the pump. The default one that comes with it is a little overboosted for these. Nothing required from Forte. I haven't purchased power steering from him. But last I saw he was providing an OE style pump with an adapter plate. KRC is a better setup than that. Although admittedly more expensive. (What else is new.) I've used the Cobraheat seat heaters several times. Available direct or through multiple channels including Forte. Also assuming you've read enough Gen 3 Coyote builds to know it will need a custom tune once you're ready for daily driving. It will start and run on the stock tune. But won't be suitable beyond that. Good luck with your build and have fun.

Junbug

07-24-2022, 04:58 PM

edwardb

07-24-2022, 07:46 PM

edwardb- Thanks for the feedback and recommendations. I'll have to look into the KRC PS setup vs Forte's. Regarding the custom tune on Gen 3 Coyote builds is that just a function of the difference between stock settings and a tune more specific to a lighter/smaller car? I'll need to dig into other posts to read more about them so thanks for the tip-off. Regardless I'll stick with the EFI as I don't want to deal with carbs/tuning in the mountains with 3k-4k elevation changes!

Confused a little by your response. You have "Coyote Power Steering Complete Kit" listed as part of your order from Factory Five. That is the KRC setup. You questioned whether needed w/ Mike Forte's Gen 3 Coyote. My response was to confirm you needed nothing from Forte for power steering since you picked the option from Factory Five. The Coyote crate motor comes without power steering. So Forte would leave it stock and you would install the setup from Factory Five (KRC) along with the power steering rack they provide as part of the option, and you're done.

Your response about the Coyote and tuning is a little confusing too. The Coyote is an EFI engine out of the box. Actually has two systems. Fuel rail injection and direct injection. There's no option to run it without EFI. Well unless you get into crazy mods, replace the intake, etc. I'm sure that's not in your plan. Forte will deliver with the stock EFI setup. I assume you're using the Ford Performance control pack with the Coyote. By far the most common setup. It comes with a PCM calibrated by Ford Performance for a standard Mustang air box. There isn't room in these builds for that. Only a relatively small and simple 90 degree adapter, MAF tube, and air filter. As a result, the MAF calibration is way off and has to be adjusted in a custom tune. Additionally, for whatever reason, Ford's standard calibration also runs excessively rich. The engine will throw error codes (and run very poorly) until both of these are adjusted by a custom tune. Plus whatever else the tuner chooses to optimize. The lighter/smaller car isn't really a factor. At least not for the major issues I've described.

By all means do as much research on these topics as you like. I will only add this is solid information based on actual experience with multiple builds including two with Coyotes. My current Gen 3 Coyote powered Coupe is awesome. After it was tuned and sorted out. (Build thread in my sig line below.) My experience has been repeated by multiple builders.

Junbug

08-11-2022, 05:40 PM

Thanks for clarifying edwardb! I misread your original message and now completely understand what you were saying. Thank you for clarifying and I really appreciate the details on why the Coyote will need a tune, very helpful. I actually just attended the FFR Roadster build class last weekend, which was very worthwhile.

Papa

08-11-2022, 07:44 PM

Welcome! You've got a great build spec'd and will have a blast building the car. We've got a lot of builders in Colorado. What part of the state are you in? I'm near Parker.

Dave

Junbug

08-12-2022, 09:25 AM

Welcome! You've got a great build spec'd and will have a blast building the car. We've got a lot of builders in Colorado. What part of the state are you in? I'm near Parker.

Dave

Dave,
Thanks! I'm in Lafayette and looking forward to the build! Estimated ship date of 14 January so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'd love to either stop by and check out your build and pick your brain a bit or link up a local Cars and Coffee.

Papa

08-12-2022, 09:55 AM

Dave,
Thanks! I'm in Lafayette and looking forward to the build! Estimated ship date of 14 January so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'd love to either stop by and check out your build and pick your brain a bit or link up a local Cars and Coffee.

I'm always eager to meet new builders and chat. I've done so at my place many times. PM me if you would like to work out a good time to come by.

Dave

Junbug

01-23-2023, 06:31 PM

So my Mk4 complete kit finally arrived 1/20/23! Considering the weather and snow covered roads/streets in CO, Eric from Stewart Transportation did an excellent and efficient job of delivering everything.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178517&d=1674515331
Inventory, with the help of my son, went relatively quickly though there were a few components missing that I'm sure would have made it a bit more laborious. MIK included chassis wiring harness, rivet package, IRS fasteners, Coyote Fitment kit and the Roadster Fastener Pack, and about 25 other odds and ends. One of the roll bars had a scratch... is this something worth asking about?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178522&d=1674515369
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178525&d=1674515369
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178524&d=1674515369
Once we completed the inventory, we took the doors and trunk off the body and lifted it to the garage ceiling via some rope/pulleys.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178536&d=1674516382
And now she's naked and ready for us to start working with her!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178526&d=1674515369

edwardb

01-24-2023, 06:03 AM

Congrats on your delivery. Let the fun begin! Just a clarification on terms, which hopefully is the case.

MIK = Missing in Kit. Meaning Factory Five checked off the item as shipped but is unaccounted for during your inventory. Or missing completely, e.g. should have been part of your kit delivery but unaccounted for anywhere. That's happened to me a few times in the past but was relatively rare. Seems to be more of an issue now with their new system. In either case, you need to report to FF as soon as possible as they would have no record of the missing items.

POL = Parts Order List. Factory Five speak for your backorder list. Indicated by zero delivered on your inventory list and in the past anyway was a separate listing in all the paperwork provided at time of delivery. Factory Five has these in their system and will provide them as available. But still should be followed up as necessary. I'm guessing (hoping) the major items you list (chassis wiring harness, rivet package, IRS fasteners, Coyote Fitment kit and the Roadster Fastener Pack, and about 25 other odds and ends) are POL not MIK. That would be a lot of unaccounted for and missing items.

Roll bar scratches, unfortunate. Could be touched up and probably unnoticeable. But I'd still report it and they should address it. Worst case, unlike chrome plating, powder coating can be somewhat easily stripped and redone. But hopefully doesn't come to that. Good luck with your build. Enjoy the journey, and the end result is worth the effort.

Junbug

01-24-2023, 11:50 AM

JeffP

01-24-2023, 12:45 PM

Thanks for clarifying EdwardB! 27 of the parts are POL and another 7 are MIK. Key parts MIK are the roadster fastener pack and accelerator pedal. The remaining POL are odds and ends fasteners and a side view mirror. Can’t wait to get started!

The accelerator pedal would come with your Coyote - its part of the Controls Pack - M-6017-M50B GEN III COYOTE ECU

mmklaxer

01-24-2023, 02:58 PM

Such a great feeling when the kit arrives! Congrats!!

danmas

01-24-2023, 05:27 PM

Hi! I am about 4 months behind you (May of 23) and I look forward to following your build. I am also right up the street in Mead. Pretty exciting day for you!

Junbug

01-28-2023, 10:12 PM

Made some more progress this week. Assembled the Wilwood rotors and hats with help from my son, as well as completed the saftey wire. The safety wire is tedious but not hard once you get the hang of it. Plus saftey wire pliers are fun to use!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178742&d=1674955043
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178743&d=1674955043
Installed the upper and lower control arms today as well. One question, for the lower control arms, the manual just says "use large shim washers provided to take up the extra space. I used two shim washers, on the drivers side, one on either side of the bushing, though I could only fit one shim on the passenger side. Is that OK?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178744&d=1674955043
It was also challenging to tighten the upper control arm rear locknut (green arrow) as you couldn't fit a wrench or socket on the back (only on the drivers side). I used a tip from someone else on the forum and wedged a flat tip screwdriver in between the nut and the bolt. In an other post I asked a when to tighten and what torque the nuts on each end of the UCA (red arrows) should be, as I couldn't find that anywhere in the manual.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178745&d=1674955043
We also drilled the F-panels for rivets and made a few minor adjustments to fit properly. I was thinking about getting the FFMetal F-Panels since I'll have 18" wheels, but have heard rubbing isn't really an issues since the updates made to the chassis/body for the 25th Anniversary builds. I understand the improvements that went into the 25th Anniversary model were implemented on all following builds. I'm open to hearing other opinions/thoughts as well, paticularly if you have hands/wheels on experience.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=178754&d=1674961869

Junbug

02-05-2023, 01:58 PM

So we made a lot of progress in the last week or so. Installed the steering rack, drilled 95% of the DS, PS footboxes as well as drilled the front of the transmission tunnels. Finished torquing down the front suspension and spindle hub. Rented a monster torque wrench for the spindle hub nuts from Auto Zone. Great tool rental program as I didn't see the need to invest in a huge torque wrench. The loctite like orange/red stuff on the spindle hub nuts is apparently there to help. It seemed to really gum up the threads but everything tightened down nicely and left a trail of grey/green debris on the spindle threads after torquing down the big nut. Others also commented that these spindle hub nuts are a single use nut so once you tighten it up all the, if you subsequently loosen it or remove it you need to get another nut. Glad to get that tip before I torqued.
We also installed our Wilwood front brake rotors and calipers. Pretty straight forward process. We used a digital caliper to estimate the thickness of the shims and after a few adjustments found stacking shims to about 2.15mm put the rotor right in the middle of our brake pads.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179325&d=1675622654
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179326&d=1675625193https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179327&d=1675625193
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179330&d=1675625193https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179328&d=1675625193
Next step is to get all the aluminum panels and select steel brackets out for powder coat. In my rough estimating I calculate about 50 sq/ft of metal to get powder coated. I'm only PCing aluminum that's visible in the engine bay (not getting the trans tunnel/DS&PS under seat done) though I'm still working out whether I get the engine bay side of the front splash guards PC'ed or not.

scrubs

02-05-2023, 09:32 PM

Good progress, Junbug.

Junbug

02-05-2023, 11:51 PM

Also decided to trim the rear spindles as I had time and the inclination. Used a sawzall with a 14 tpi 6" blade. Took about 7-8 mins to cut through, but it was easier than using a hacksaw!
Starting mount
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179366&d=1675658542
I shifted the whole drill press to the ground as it was vibrating around my benchtop. First one cut filed smooth (roughly).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179367&d=1675658542
Second one cut, filed smooth (roughly) and a lot of shop vac useage to clean up all the dust!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179368&d=1675658542
I also removed the metric lugs from the rear hubs. Not to difficult but I made sure to support the hub when knocking them out with a dead blow hammer. It sure is uncomfortable swinging a hammer at a brand new part! I just took my time and made sure to aim each blow. Plan to get some "donor" sacrificial lug nuts and use the greased washer method after putting the lug bolts in the freezer (or my Colorado garage) for a few days!

Junbug

02-13-2023, 08:20 PM

We made some slow but steady progress on our build over the last week. Busy with work, travel and school, but we try to put in an hour or two every night, if not building/assembling then we're finalizing orders for other equipment.
First bit of progress was finishing drilling all the cockpit aluminum. I highly recommend picking up some of the cobalt #30 bits from Aircraft Tool Supply. It was a night and day difference change from my stock dewalt drill bits. Once everything was drilled and fitted with Cleco's we pulled everything off to get a picture to help the powder coaters with estimates. Anticipate dropping the aluminum off this week or next.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179903&d=1676335693
Next we worked on pulling the new lugs into the hubs. After reading numerous posts and searching many threads I thought I'd give it the old college try before investing in a new tool. After about 2 hours, I'd successfully pulled one lug into place and stripped another lug shaft using the oversize washer, deep well socket and a long ratchet. I then drove up the road to a local box store and purchased a Dewalt 1/2" impact drill that uses the same battery packs I have for all my other tools. It took me approximately 10 minutes to pull the remaining 8 lugs through without issue. Money/time well spent!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179905&d=1676335693
Next, my son and I assembled the pedals and did a temporary fitting to mark holes to drill for the support bracket. We didn't start assembling the hydraulics yet as I don't want to have something break before we get our aluminum back from powder coat. I need the face of the DS footbox in place before I tighten up the 4 bolts to hold the pedal assembly in place as well as hold the upper steering column bearing collar.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179906&d=1676335693
Likewise, we also assembled and installed the steering shaft and u-joints. That was relatively easy following along with the build manual. As many others have done we needed to put the upper collar bearing on the inside of the footbox to avoid the upper drive shaft from biding the upper most u-joint. We also discovered that when putting this bearing on the inside of the DS footbox, it interferes with the pedal assembly. Some quick work with the angle grinder on the bearing housing cleaned up the interference. They overlapped by about 1/4 of an inch. Additionally, I received some sage advice about taking my time and gently sanding, filing and polishing the upper drive shaft to ensure it slides into the D-shaft smoothly, about an inch past the divit for the second spring washer. Just enough resistance to be able to pull it apart and avoid binding. I just used 150 grit sand paper, 220 grit sand paper and a green scotch-brite pad. Great tip... when you insert the upper shaft into the lower d-shaft and it binds, point it at a bright light like its a hunting scope and you'll see light around it where it fits, and darkness where it binds. Just gently sand down the binding locations until the slide together with the amount of friction you're comfortable with.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179902&d=1676335693
Lastly I've been messaging experts on the forum for advice and drafts of my fuel system build. I appreciate all their advice and candor. Below is our current plan.
Pro-M hanger with the 3/8" feed and return 6AN fittings https://www.promracing.com/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html
Walbro GSS340BX electric in tank fuel pump https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gss340bx
Trick Flow fuel filter, 20' of Fragola PTFE stainless braided 3/8" fuel line, numerous Fragola 6AN fittings and an Aeromotive 13130 regulator.
Ensuring I have all the right fittings in the right sex has been giving me headaches but youtube and experts here have been very helpful.
And a nice pic of the frame without her lingerie. Disregard all the junk in her trunk...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179904&d=1676335693

scrubs

02-13-2023, 08:38 PM

Solid progress. After my rear brakes/e brake lines, doing steering - need to remember to do the sanding of the shaft. Gracias.

j

Junbug

02-23-2023, 11:19 PM

Busy last week or two with work and a long ski trip over Presidents Day weekend....
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180530&d=1677212223
But upon return this week I got a big surprise delivery from my friend Mike Forte.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180527&d=1677211402
Once unpacked and unwrapped this motor/trans looks clean and amazing...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180529&d=1677211402
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180528&d=1677211402
We still have a lot to do before we put this in, but Mike was running a great deal at the end of 2022 and I thought having to look at this engine every time I went to work on the car I'd be motivated to keep working!
Dropping aluminum off this weekend for powder coating, and if the weather holds I plan to run my brake lines. We've had highs in the single digits the last few days but this weekend promises to be 50 degrees!
Started getting a trickle of POL parts from Factory Five... bolts, nuts and accessories. Still waiting for the IRS bolt kit but i got a FedEx delivery from FFR coming Saturday or Sunday that weighs 40 lbs, so I'm hoping its my wiring harness and a bunch of bolts for the IRS and IRS suspension!

460.465USMC

02-24-2023, 08:36 PM

Congrats on the Gen3/TKX delivery, Bryan. I agree it will be motivating to eye-ball it when you're working on the build. I looked at mine for a while (long while!) before installing it.

P.S. just in case you aren't aware, Forte sells a modified earlier version of the Coyote engine cover that looks better than the Gen3 flying saucer IMHO. Here's what it looks like on my motor. I'm planning to add some body color to it when I get the body painted.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167644&d=1654367385

Junbug

02-25-2023, 11:00 PM

Junbug

02-25-2023, 11:14 PM

So today I got the front end hard brake lines installed... my first time using a tubing bender and first time installing hard brake lines... Pics below and please point out my errors/mistakes. Of note, the pedal box is only temporarily installed as I need to get my DS footbox aluminum PC'ed and all those bolts go through the black steel and aluminum for final tightening.
My initial concerns were avoiding having to do any unions, so I made the best use of each 60" pre-fabbed line from FFR. I understand there is some alternate opinions on the brake lines going vertical at the master cylinder joint, but it seems 50/50 so I went with what the manual showed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180803&d=1677383916
All of the unions/joints are just set in place and not tightened... I didn't want to put any pressure on the brass fittings... yet. I made sure the hard line clears the steering shaft, I'm just hoping that installing the Coyote doesn't interfere with that DS line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180804&d=1677383916
Across the front was one of the easier bends...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180805&d=1677383916
Passenger side hard line to flex line mount. The lines tend to get a bit scratched up when bending and fitting them through the frame.... does this matter? Is it best to coat/paint/seal the hard lines again before final installation?
Also if you think I need to add additional cushioned brackets please let me know.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180806&d=1677383916
Tomorrow is on to drilling the trunk and making the modifications for Russ's drop trunk. I don't have any of my rivets from FFR, or any of my IRS fasteners so I'm kind of stuck running lines and drilling what I can.
Also I ordered my fuel system components and they should all arrive early next week, along with a mysterious 40lb box from FFR...maybe a large portion of my POL, or at least my IRS fasteners!

Railroad

02-26-2023, 08:32 AM

Not an error, but having the hard line higher than the master cylinder is an opportunity for air to occupy.
Many have done as you and bleed the brakes successfully.
My point, it will be better to run the line lower or parallel from the master cylinder, same as entering wheel cylinders.
No need to have a coil of line higher than connection point to either location.
Good fabrication!

460.465USMC

02-26-2023, 11:13 AM

Hi Bryan. Congrats on the brake lines. I, too, was a first timer and found it a pretty challenging task using the kit supplied lines. Way to go.

Regarding your question about the brake line junction above the steering shaft, yes, it will likely be in the way when you stab in the Coyote. So, you may choose not to bleed the front lines until you have the motor in. Unless you want extra practice bleeding the fronts. :p

scrubs

02-26-2023, 12:04 PM

Junbug

02-26-2023, 10:39 PM

Junbug

03-05-2023, 12:16 AM

So I was traveling for work most of this week but received a number of shipments of parts while I was gone including a number of key POL items, but not all of them (rivets? really?). One of the most important ones at this point was the IRS fastener pack. So today I spent most of the day drilling and cleco'ing the trunk, drop trunk and remainder of the aft end aluminum. Then of course spending a bit of time cleaning up all the shavings. Once everything was cleco'ed in place I added the drop trunk and drilled an cleco'ed that in place. Learned a few lessons on the best way to use a jig saw to cut through aluminum in straight lines, but everything worked itself out without any issue.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181100&d=1677992583
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181101&d=1677992583
After cleanup and moving "most" of the aluminum panels to storage I prepared the frame for mounting the IRS center section tomorrow, as well as assembling the rear UCA, LCA and toe arms.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181102&d=1677992583
I'll drop another update tomorrow after my son and I install the IRS center section as well as the rest of the IRS suspension. Still waiting on some POL spacers to install the rear shocks, but the rest of the parts are on hand.

Junbug

03-05-2023, 11:55 PM

So we had a productive day today. Drilled out the IRS center section, both spindles and prepared everything for install. IRS center section went in pretty smoothly with just my son and I wrestling it together. I'd say it took us about 15-20 min of install time after looking at it and strategizing for probably the same amount of time. We lifted it up vertically and put it on our floor jack. We then wrapped a singe tie down strap around the front mounts and over the 1" & 2" trunk support steel bars. As we started to slowly jack it up we also leaned it forward into the trans tunnel area and adjusted the tie down strap to take the weight. Once the rear mounts cleared the rear bushings, we leveled it out and re-positioned the jack under the center of the center section and slowly started to lower it using the tie down strap to gently lower the front. Once the front mounts were aligned with the front bushings, we inserted the front bolts with little problem (a few taps from a rubber mallet). Next we continued to lower the rear until the rear mounts were aligned with the rear bushings. We then similarly gently tapped the bolts until they we could start the threads. Then went to the front and finger tightened the locking nuts and torqued everything to spec.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181146&d=1678076905
Next we moved on to the rear suspension. Toe arms, lower control arm and upper control arms. Everything went in smoothly and only required a few gentle rubber mallet taps to seat through the far side of the frame mounts. I used a zip tie to secure the toe arm to the UCA as I don't want it dragging on the garage floor as I'm moving the chassis around.
Drivers Side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181144&d=1678076905
Passenger Side
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181145&d=1678076905
That 5/8" "chase" bit is no joke. I managed to secure the spindle/hub assembly to my tabletop drill press, adjusted to the lowest speed to drill out the spindle per the manual. There was no way the center section would fit on my tabletop drill press (believe me I tried) so I had to use my hand drill to slooowwwwly, drill out the center section front mounts. That took about twice as long as it took to mount the center section! And I'm sure my wrist will be sore for a few days as even drilling very slowly, it would catch and kick back.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181147&d=1678076905
Also, the four bolts securing the hub to the spindle assembly were quite a challenge to get torqued down to spec. There isn't really a good way to secure the hub/spindle assembly in a vise that can handle the 98 fl/lbs of torque needed. I managed to get all 8 bolts torqued to spec after trying a few ways to secure the spindle in a vise so I could grab one of the spindle arms and push/pull the opposite direction of my torque wrench. Other option suggested was to mount the spindle/hub assembly to the rear suspension, torque everything then take it back off to insert the CV axles. I'd hit my point of diminishing returns by that time and called it for the day.
Tasks for this week are to install the CV axles, mount the spindle/hub assemblies mount the rear brakes, install rear hard lines (more challenging at this point with the center section in, but oh well). I also received my fuel system, lines, fittings and pump so there is plenty to do there to keep me busy on weeknights.

Junbug

03-10-2023, 08:00 PM

So these showed up this week! Getting excited to continue making progress! Custom order from Forgestar with the exact spec's from the 25th Anniversary edition 18" wheels. Forgestar was great and made everything very easy and straightforward. Love how they glow in the sunshine and are dark in the shade.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181393&d=1678496088
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181391&d=1678496061
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181392&d=1678496061

Junbug

03-12-2023, 11:07 PM

Steady progress this weekend. Started with flattening out the bends in the fuel tank and dry fitting the fuel pump hanger as well as the fuel level sending unit. No issues there and helpful advice from the forum! Next we started by inserting the CV axles and then mounting the spindles to the IRS suspension components. CV axles went in without much fuss. Just had to make sure they were pressed in place, straight and a few blows to the CV Axle nut and they tapped right in. I just kept an eye on how far they were in and once I could see the retention clip was depressed I could let off and just tap the rest of the way in. A quick tug confirmed they were seated in place. Bolting up the rest of the IRS suspension parts to the spindles was relatively straight forward. A few of the suspension pieces needed to be stretched a bit, but a 5' long 1/2" threaded rod with a couple of nuts allowed me to stretch the joints open enough. Once the bolts/nuts tightened up to torque everything fit as expected.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181491&d=1678678382
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181489&d=1678678382
Next my son and I fit, adjusted and installed the rear brake rotors, calipers and parking brakes. This was actually pretty relaxing as everything fit well, and taking everything on and off to add shims really gets your hands on the gear and allows you to get to know how everything works. Once done we torqued everything to spec, added loc-tite where required and admired the final product.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181490&d=1678678382
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181488&d=1678678382
Next we attacked doing a dry run on installing the fuel tank. Once I understood that I needed to lift the tank into place (with a floor jack) before running the hanger straps around the tank it went in much easier. Many others on the forum have mentioned the need to flatten out the factory bends in the tank in order for it to sit right. I didn't understand the need, but followed the guidance regardless. Upon using my floor jack to lift the tank into place, it all became quickly evident. The 3/4" inch down-tubes that you install the plastic cushions into to keep the metal tank from touching the metal frame are precisely where the now "flattened" sections of the tank rest. The hanger straps won't reach their bolts unless you flatten out those bends in the tank. I didn't need to "adjust" either of my 1" down-tubes as everything fit nicely as is.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181492&d=1678678382
Still waiting for my cockpit aluminum to come back from powder coating. I also dropped my headers off to get ceramic coating this week though I won't need them for quite some time. I skipped getting my exhaust pipes ceramic coated as I haven't decided if I stick with the Factory Five standard exhaust pipes or switch to the Gas-N "quieter" pipes. I'll see how the FFR pipes sound and then make may decision before I take the body for paint.

Next major step is fuel line routing and finishing the rear hard brake lines.... then on to wiring!

JohnK

03-12-2023, 11:17 PM

Nice progress Bryan. Looks great!

One tip - if you haven't heard of the "Kleiner mod" yet, you may want to look into it. Here's one post (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38622-Kleiner-Mod&p=443224&viewfull=1#post443224) about it, but several folks have written about it over the years. It's basically adding 7/16-14 couplers where the factory mounts on the rear of the car would normally go. This makes final body install infinitely easier later on.

Junbug

03-19-2023, 11:36 PM

Relatively slow day on physical progress, but a lot going on in the background getting ready for future assembly. I finished bending and installing the rear hard brake line today. Went in a bit easier than I thought. There was a lot of second guessing and estimating but once I decided on the location of the hard-to-flexible tab locations it went quick. Just waiting for my rivet package from FFR before I start putting together the DS footbox, which will then allow me to finish the hard line to the rear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181822&d=1679286440
Also spent a lot of time ordering additional components and mapping out what comes next. I've also started about 5-6 small projects and haven't finished any of them (adding seat heaters, fuel pump installation into fuel pump hanger, SS flexible PTFE fuel lines and fittings, fuel pressure regulator, trunk struts mods to the cubby wall, mapping out my CF dash layout) and ordering a bunch of parts to help fabricate components (Kleiner trunk mod, hydraulic reservoir bracket, seat spacers & sliders).

JohnK

03-19-2023, 11:57 PM

Hey Bryan. FWIW - I opted to use Summit "ultimate rivets" on my build instead of the FFR-provided rivets. They have a larger grip range and they also have a version that has a larger head and they're available in colors. There's nothing wrong with the kit rivets - I'm just mentioning this in case you're getting antsy and want to move forward with riveting panels, they're worth a look.

These are the ones I used:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-abs4246lurr1

There's also a version with a smaller head, as well as 3/16" long and short rivets.

Junbug

03-25-2023, 02:51 PM

Spent the last week tinkering and building my fuel lines. I posted separately a few questions I had but once I got the hang of what to do things went smoothly. Installed the fuel level sending unit, the fuel tank vent and temporarily fit the fuel pump hanger. I also received the first batch of my powder coating back. I dry fitted and cleco'ed everything in place as I finalize a few other details. I was surprised at how everything went back together quite well. Just a bit of bending, pressing and paying attention to the joints so I know what order to assemble things when caulking and riveting. Next steps will be to caulk and rivet the panels in place. I'm really glad I went with the matte black PC, I think it looks great. I'm just trying to decide if I go with the aluminum rivets as a contrasting color or buy black rivets that John suggests above.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182060&d=1679773463

Junbug

04-09-2023, 11:10 PM

I've been busy with life but got plenty of work done over the last few weeks. Completed my fuel lines and tested them successfully. Received a few more POL/MIK parts from FFR and finally received my certificate of origin and serial number plate.
As of this weekend I was able to caulk and rivet the PS footbox as well as most of the DS footbox (bottom, engine side and front). I'm leaving the top and side off the drivers side to allow access as needed in the future. Additionally I was able to complete the seat heater installation into my seats. I used the DAP Weldwood contact cement and it went well. Just make sure you allow it to sit for a while ~15 mins before you stick things together. I also stacked a few heavy boxes on them once complete to keep everything in place while I worked on other things.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182759&d=1681099174
Also finished caulking and riveting the firewall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182760&d=1681099174
This is feeling more like a car again!
Next steps will be to finish the hard rear brake line (I went through the inside of the DS footbox, right behind the Coyote accelerator pedal mount), and mount the fuel lines. Once these are complete I'll close up the cockpit and trans-tunnel sides. Then on to wiring. Not something I'm looking forward to but I started laying things out and it appears pretty straight forward (famous last words!).
I find myself getting caught up in one task then forgetting what other task I actually started. Building my own spreadsheet with as many tasks as I can find, and working to keep myself on track!

Junbug

04-22-2023, 11:43 PM

Its been a few weeks of travel for work and family. Finished up adding the fuel pump to the fuel tank as well as mounting the fuel filler pipe. All went in relatively straightforward though the fuel filter on the end of the fuel pump popped off a few times resulting in some fun methods of fishing it out. Please let me know if anything looks awry! I took the pic through the fuel filler hole, which not having it installed/mounted was very helpful.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183310&d=1682224404
I also trimmed each of the master cylinders by about 1/2" and remounted them with no problem. Additionally I pulled out my RT turn signal, then marked and drilled for its mounting. No issues there, but I'd appreciate any advice if something seems out of place. I also used the temporary mounting of the steering shaft to measure and mark the holes I need to cut in my CF dash. Might do that tomorrow, but its been snowing and cold again here in CO and I don't really want to cut the CF outside if its windy.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183311&d=1682224404
Also looking for some advice regarding mounting of the radiator with the breeze upper, lower and fan shroud. I believe both of the 1"x1" tabs need to be cut off? Can anyone confirm that?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183312&d=1682224404
Lastly, I pulled the trigger and got the gear and materials to powder coat small pieces. Special thanks to those that have also done it themselves, Jessie, AKA Blitzboy54, was very helpful. I did a few test pieces and so far I have no complaints. Its pretty straight forward and something easy to have going on in the background while working on other elements of the car.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183313&d=1682224404

460.465USMC

04-23-2023, 11:10 AM

Hi Bryan. Welcome to powder coating. It's so handy to be able to do the small pieces in your own garage. Looking good.

Yes, those 3/4" brackets need to be removed for the Breeze upper radiator mount.

Junbug

04-23-2023, 10:39 PM

Another busy day today alternating between powder coating parts and working on the car. Got around to installing the E-brake cables on the rear wilwoods. Pretty straight forward, and I forgot to take a pic. Otherwise I was busy drilling and tapping holes for the fuel line mounts. I like how they ended up. They aren't fixed and the lines can move but the clamps stay firmly in place. I'm still waiting for my fuel filter from Summit, and it's shipped and should arrive in the next few days. Fuel line routing pics below. Let me know if you see any egregious mistakes.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183359&d=1682307124
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183360&d=1682307124
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183361&d=1682307124
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183362&d=1682307124
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183358&d=1682307124
I have a few more of the hose clamps and will add one to the PS footbox once I mount the pressure regulator on the firewall.

Blitzboy54

04-24-2023, 06:14 AM

Great job on the PC! It’s really rewarding. I needed up PC all kinds of stuff that didn’t need it just because it was fun. Like tools and thing laying around the house.

I really like the black panels with the silver rivets. The contrast looks great.

Junbug

04-30-2023, 10:04 PM

Got caught up on a lot of small things this week and made some good progress. Started with finalizing the routing for my rear hard brake lines through the DS footbox. Similar route others have taken in the past, no need for more grainy pictures. I did add grommets to each of the 1/2" holes I drilled to both center the brake line as well as keep it away from rubbing the steel and aluminum edges. In addition to finishing the routing, I started riveting in the cushioned mounts to keep the brake line in place. Once i finished that, i started to connect all the brake fittings. Starting at the master cylinders and working to the wheels, I replaced the cleco's holding my cushioned clamps in place with rivets. Once at the wheels I connected the stainless steel flex lines to the wilwood hard/soft adapters and snugged everything up. As others recommended i put just a dab of brake fluid at each of the joints to help the flares seat together. If something looks off, please point it out (aside from my rear springs that have the FFR writing upside down). BTW I didn't connect both the front DS and PS side brake lines as others have mentioned the way I have them bent may interfere when I drop the engine in. So bleeding the brakes may be a bit of a wait.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183838&d=1682908341
Next I installed the emergency/parking brake lines. That was pretty straightforward and I got to mount a few of the pieces I powder coated last weekend. As far as the routing of the e-brake cables, are the good to just lay where they are, or do some lift them up and hold them off the rear diff with cushioned clamps? Maybe where I have the yellow arrows pointing? Just a thought but I haven't seen other options...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183843&d=1682908447
Now that I've installed both my fuel lines and my rear brake lines, I decided I could complete the cockpit aluminum. I installed both the passenger side as well as the drivers side. Installation was pretty straightforward. I dry fit a few times, made a few minor adjustments then put down my clear silicone, dropped in the aluminum and then cleco'ed in a a few places as I riveted everything in place. I plan to do something others have done with the top of the transmission tunnel, but I haven't' decided yet...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183839&d=1682908341

460.465USMC

05-01-2023, 10:59 AM

As far as the routing of the e-brake cables, are the good to just lay where they are, or do some lift them up and hold them off the rear diff with cushioned clamps? Maybe where I have the yellow arrows pointing? Just a thought but I haven't seen other options...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=183843&d=1682908447

Hi Bryan,

I didn't want the e-brake cables loose, so I secured them close to the area you noted above, but down a bit on the diagonal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150719&d=1626051635

Junbug

05-01-2023, 10:43 PM

Thanks Chris! I appreciate the feedback and the picture. I didn’t like how they just flop around. A few nice cushioned clamps like you used will be helpful. Thanks again
-Bryan

Junbug

06-19-2023, 11:07 PM

So its been a few weeks of work and family travel but I've been making slow and steady progress on my punch list of minor things that needed to be addressed. The first thing was that the coyote accelerator pedal was touching the side of the cockpit aluminum. I pulled the pedal off and as recommended on a few other threads made a small channel and did a bit of sanding that moved the top right hand side of the accelerator pedal away from the cockpit wall by about 1/2".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186063&d=1687229732
Next was designing and cutting out all the holes for my gauges. This took the better part of an afternoon, but templates, blue painters tape and a dremmel with a cutoff wheel and a sanding drum made things pretty easy. I just went slow, with plenty of protective gear (respirator, eye protection and long sleeves/pants). I prefer this layout, and regardless of whether i like it in the long run or not, its what I've got!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186058&d=1687229698
I also finished powder coating a bunch of other small parts, and was able to mount the hydraulic reservoirs for my brakes. The tops of the reservoirs sit about level with the 3/4" bar, so they should clear the hood no problem.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186061&d=1687229698
I also modified the bracket that came with my aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. The bracket is a 90 degree bend and bolts to the bottom of the regulator. I took it off and gently used a hammer and bent the piece flat. Once mounted to the bottom side of the 2"x2" at the base of the upper firewall, it stands off the firewall and leaves a 1.5" gap that allows the coyote engine wiring harness to run over to the PS footbox and on into the PS engine compartment. Many variations of the similar modifications out there. The fuel lines are just hooked up so I know how much slack I have. I won't hook them up completely until the engine is in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186062&d=1687229698
Lastly I realized that FF sent me the accessories for a hydraulic clutch, where I am using a cable. Thus the part to actuate the coyote clutch safety switch wouldn't work, as delivered. I ended up taking what they sent and modifying it to fit my needs. Just a bit of trimming and sanding (wish I had a bench grinder) and I think I solved the problem. Plenty of adjusting still needed on the clutch safety switch's final location but its adjustable and I won't touch it again until the engine and clutch cable is installed. Based on others recommendations I plan to get a genuine Ford clutch cable. I understand its a "must do" for both ease of use and reliability.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=186064&d=1687229732
Next big steps are wrapping up everything in the trunk area so I can install the drop trunk, trunk aluminum and then the rear cockpit wall. Once done with that, I'll be moving on to lots of prep work to spray the Lizardskin heat and sound insulation. I plan to spray both in the cockpit and only the sound insulation in the interior trunk area.

Junbug

07-22-2023, 06:40 PM

So its been about a month but I've been busy and took some vacation time in Europe. While there we took advantage of being able to tour a few car museums, and stopped by Porsche and Mercedes in Stuttgart as well as BMW in Munich. Got a lot of inspiration from some of the colors out there... a few select pics below before I get into the latest project on my Cobra.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187534&d=1690068450
One of the first BMW coupes... I like the matte grey color.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187535&d=1690068450
A bit more modern BMW... Formula E car. The wheels are surprisingly thin (not very wide adds efficiency)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187533&d=1690068450
Outside the Porsche factory... why not put cars on huge piece of artwork!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187539&d=1690068477
Porsche 918 Spyder study one of one. I really like this grey color...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187532&d=1690068450
Next Gen all electric Porsche race car... That said, Porsche does have a stated mission to save the internal combustion engine!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187537&d=1690068477
Pretty sweet toy hauler! Also liking this grey color....
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187538&d=1690068477
I really like this matte grey color.... not sure how it will look on a cobra, but I haven't seen many Matte Grey's out there...

Junbug

07-22-2023, 06:50 PM

And now to the work on the Cobra. Spent a few days prepping for LizardSkin (LS) sound and heat insulation. Lots of tidying things up and about a day of prepping with tape, paper (save the paper that comes from FFR with all your parts!). I'd say I spent probably another half-day prepping the aluminum and exposed powder coated surfaces getting them ready for the LS. I ended up using a combination of my cordless power drill with a wire brush, and a circular disc sander that mounts on to my same cordless power drill. As you can see, I didn't put the drop trunk and lower trunk in yet. I plan to add those later, and I wanted to be able to access the rear harness after I complete the LS spraying. I know I'll have to drop the fuel tank, which you have to regardless, when you're installing the drop trunk. I plan to install those and spray again with the LS sound insulation (no heat insulation needed in the trunk).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187536&d=1690068450
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187527&d=1690068411
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187528&d=1690068411
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187530&d=1690068411
You'll probably see some of the Dynaflex Extreme latex I used to fill gaps... No problem with the LS not sticking to it as they're both latex.

Junbug

07-22-2023, 06:55 PM

And after pics.... I just sprayed the LS sound insulation. Man is that stuff thick. I ended up having to mix it each time I had to refill the spray cup otherwise it was coming out in large splatters and not smooth.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187523&d=1690068363
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187524&d=1690068363
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187525&d=1690068363
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187526&d=1690068363
On to the ceramic insulation tomorrow afternoon, giving the sound insulation 24 hrs to cure/dry per the instructions. Per advice from the others that have also sprayed the LS... In a few places I placed two pieces of tape, that I plan to pull off in between sound and heat insulation. Advice is that with both sprayed on, its too heavy/thick and the tape doesn't come off easy.

460.465USMC

07-23-2023, 02:53 PM

Thanks for the cool pictures from your BMW/Porsche tour, Bryan. Looked like a great time.

I bet you'll be happy with your LS choice. Looks like a quality product. Congrats on being almost done with it...lots of work in the prep and application.

JohnK

07-24-2023, 02:01 AM

Thanks for the photos from the BMW/Porsche/Mercedes museums. That's pretty cool that you were able to visit them! Definitely on my bucket list.

Nice work on the LS. It turned out great. It's a lot of work to prep and spray but I agree with Chris, you'll be happy with the final outcome. It's a good product.

Junbug

08-06-2023, 12:30 AM

Spent the last few weeks working on laying out the wiring/power system as well as catching up on small details here and there. Below is a pic of the latest progress.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188372&d=1691298398
Battery/power wiring is 90% done, cuttoff and PDB fuse is in with 4 gauge connections. All the FFR and Coyote harnesses are installed, excluding the engine harness as that is connected to the engine. Going from left to right across the dash: Alternator and Starter harness (part of the main harness behind the dash), Coyote harness (the line running left goes to the main Coyote computer, below that you can see the power cutoff switch (wired like EdwardB and JohnK), next to the cutoff is the main PDB fuse, above that is the Coyote fuse box (PDB), to the right of that is the rear harness, sending unit harness and the 4 gauge lead that will go to my power bus bar in the cockpit.

The other side of the dash looks like this.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188368&d=1691298248
Lots still to do! I have the rear harness hooked up, the sending unit installed as is (may add the Coyote provided oil pressures and water temp wires to that harness).
You can see the 4 gauge lead just hanging out until I get my power bus bar installed.
I'm still working on final locations for the Headlight switch, ignition (key) and the inertia switch.
I have a self imposed deadline to get my engine in before my son heads off to school at the end of this month. Next few steps are focused on prepping to accomplish that goal.
1. Get tires installed on wheels, and get them on the car so the car can be mobile (ie. off the dolly)
2. Get wiring completed enough to install engine
3. Install PS system on engine
4. Install starter on engine
5. Install oil temp and water temp senders on engine

I'm hoping those will be all I need to do before dropping the engine in. Then I'll have about 9 weeks before my son is back to continue electrical, install the cooling system, bleed and test the brake system, and hopefully fuel up (only a few gallons) for a first start before the end of October!

Junbug

08-12-2023, 11:10 PM

So we made a good amount of progress getting ready to install the engine in the last week.
We installed the KRC PS pump, belt and tank. No issues to report... pretty straight forward and the instructions are spot on. We also pulled all of the header pins to get ready for installing the headers. Many will fit as is, but many location are too tight to use the pins.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188725&d=1691898385
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188727&d=1691898385
Next we worked on installing the oil temp and water temp senders. Also fairly straight forward, but also a bit unnerving tightening brass into brass and brass into the engine. Some of the angles needed for the sensors make "one more" turn to get it oriented at the right angle so they don't interfere with one another had our nerves on edge. In the pic below it looks like they will interfere with one another but its just an odd angle. They clear one another, and the sending cable easily.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188726&d=1691898385
We also learned that with Mike Forte's engine stand, there isn't room to install the starter. We added it to the very short list of things to do once the engine is in the air... or once its installed... Any tips/advice would be appreciated. You can see where the legs of the engine stand interfere with where the starter needs to be.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188373&d=1691300652
Additionally in the photo above you can see Mike Forte's engine lift brackets. As many have pointed out, they are fine for moving the engine around but will interfere with installing the headers while you're installing the engine. So we ordered coyote engine lift brackets from TD Motion. Below is a pic of them installed with arrows pointing to them.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188730&d=1691898419
Also, i finally pulled the trigger on buying tires. Got them installed today! Stacked and ready to mount later this week. I also purchased some wheel dollys to help move the car when installing the engine. Most likely for both the front and back wheels, but I'll likely have the back end higher in the air on jack stands to get the transmission in at the right angle. We'll see how it goes!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188729&d=1691898385
They really look good in the sun, unfortunately it wasn't sunny out today but here they are outside.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188728&d=1691898385

460.465USMC

08-13-2023, 11:38 AM

We also learned that with Mike Forte's engine stand, there isn't room to install the starter. We added it to the very short list of things to do once the engine is in the air... or once its installed... Any tips/advice would be appreciated. You can see where the legs of the engine stand interfere with where the starter needs to be.

Additionally in the photo above you can see Mike Forte's engine lift brackets. As many have pointed out, they are fine for moving the engine around but will interfere with installing the headers while you're installing the engine. So we ordered coyote engine lift brackets from TD Motion. Below is a pic of them installed with arrows pointing to them.

Things are coming together, Bryan. Looking good.

I had the same issue with getting the starter installed with Forte's "engine stand". Inspired by Edwardb, I made this in lieu of an engine stand (I don't have one), so I could install the starter, etc. And, X2 on replacing Forte's engine lift brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=162822&d=1645322950

JohnK

08-13-2023, 11:50 AM

Hey Bryan. Nice progress! JFYI - there's plenty of room to install the starter once the engine is installed. The passenger side of the engine has a plenty of space. It's only the drivers side that's super-cramped.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=152418&d=1629478844

Junbug

08-13-2023, 10:48 PM

And today we mounted the wheels and got her on the ground, well on to wheel dollies so we can move her around!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188776&d=1691984817

Junbug

08-20-2023, 12:26 AM

Today was engine install day! Everything went relatively smooth and installing the coyote was pretty much as expected. A local Colorado builder lent me a 2T lift and engine leveler. (danmas). And Papa offered his as well, though Dan was a bit closer.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189088&d=1692508247
The overall process was pretty straight forward. One key, as shared by mmklaxer, make sure your engine (coyote) is level. Whether you're using chains, an engine leveler, or rubber bands... make sure its level (horizontally from side to side). This becomes key as you're lowering the engine into its final position. If you start tilted to the DS or PS side, it will make it very difficult to get the engine to drop into its final position evenly. Thanks to all others that shared tips, the entire engine install process took my 17 year old son and I about 2.5 hours, including bolting on the headers. The headers themselves took us around 1.5 hrs. We took our time as this was our first time putting any engine in.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189090&d=1692508247

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189092&d=1692508247
Installing the headers wasn't fun, but it wasn't impossible either. We have the FFR coyote headers and I purchased socket head screws based on the advice of others and it went relatively smoothly. Like I said above, it took us about 1.5 hrs to get the gasket and all header bolts installed and torqued. When I say torqued, about 4-5 per side are accessible with a torque wrench/extension combo. The others were torqued via my "calibrated" right arm.
There are likely more details to share, but it went much smoother than I thought, being my first time. Of course our pup needed to get into the pics as she likes to be around us when we're wrenching in the garage, and I stuck a few of Mike Forte's head stickers on her for show...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189096&d=1692508273

Junbug

08-20-2023, 12:31 AM

Just for fun I took a few pics of the "clearance" on the DS and PS of the engine bay with the coyote installed. As you can see below, the passenger side has a massive 1" of space between the top of the head and the PS footbox. It does get wider as you go down the head/footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189094&d=1692508273
And here you can see the gap on the DS. This pic is looking from front to back at the gap between the head and the DS footbox. My ruler is pressed against the front of the DS footbox.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189093&d=1692508273

460.465USMC

08-21-2023, 05:24 PM

Congrats, Bryan. Great work! As you experienced first hand, it is a tight fit indeed. This first timer looked in disbelief beforehand thinking there's no way it's going to fit. Then looked in disbelief afterward and amazed at the shoehorn fit.

How many young men your son's age can say they installed a motor? Not your average Saturday afternoon. I'm excited for you guys. Thanks for sharing the pics.

Junbug

08-27-2023, 09:57 PM

So we got a bit more done this weekend. Started connecting all the vacuum tubes, vents and plugs on the front of the engine. That culminated in a test placement of the air filter, MAF sensor body and throttle body intake. It was a tight fit, and I was surprised at how far you have to push the air filter over the aluminum tube that holds the MAF sensor... I guess it fits with about 2"-3" of the air filter sliding over the aluminum MAF tube.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189438&d=1693190833

Also followed the instructions for installing the heater bypass hose/tube along with the flow reducer. Seems pretty straight forward but I may place a hose clamp over the outside of the reducer to make sure it stays in place. My finger is pointing at the location of the reducer in the second pic.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189439&d=1693190833
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189442&d=1693190833
I also finished up my power, at least from my master cutoff to the battery, including the starter and engine ground. Gave me some fits and starts but in the end it worked out fine. I may still move a few of the ground cables around but they all have good solid connections to the frame (with he PC removed and dielectric grease on all contacts).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189440&d=1693190833
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189441&d=1693190833

Junbug

09-10-2023, 12:14 AM

Slow and steady progress toward first start. I've been making small steps on both dash and main harness electrical. Largely identifying and marking everything, identifying differences between the manual and the coyote guide and routing everything 3 or 4 times before deciding on a final (for now) location. Assembled the radiator, fan and Breeze fan shroud today. I didn't like how the fan shroud just sat on the radiator, specifically along the vertical edges. I happened to have a few extra feet of 1/4" rubber u-shaped edging that I bought to use on my radiator cover edges. I ended up putting it on the vertical edges of the fan shroud and i'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189917&d=1694322078
I also started working on my coolant expansion tank location. I ironed out most of the routing and spacing for the coolant hoses and ended up in this location. It's been done by many others on the forum so nothing exciting or groundbreaking here.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189918&d=1694322215
It was fun fabricating the mounting bracket, which took much longer than I anticipated, but in the end is one of the rewarding things of doing these builds. Its hidden and won't ever be seen by anyone but me, but it was enjoyable to fabricate, shape and finish something. The height also seems to be on par with others. I ended up going with the UPR tank based on Frank's (i.e. 427) recent positive experience with one. It's a very high quality build, comes with a nice radiator cap and is a good amount cheaper than the Moroso tank available. I can't compare the two side by side, but it is high quality and identical in dimensions and connections/outlets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189919&d=1694322215
Here is a pic of both the radiator and the expansion tank mocked up where they'll get mounted for final later (after I finish my power steering lines). Right now its mocked up at 51 degrees off vertical and I plan to use the FFR provided radiator surrounds. I will install the Breeze lower radiator mount tomorrow.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189920&d=1694322215
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189922&d=1694322215

Junbug

09-10-2023, 08:43 PM

So today I finished up the expansion tank bracket as well as the support bracket that will be fixed between the radiator fan shroud and the bottom of the expansion tank.
View from the bottom. Secured in place with 4 3/16th rivets... the bracket is made from .090" aluminum that I had on hand. Very sturdy and I didn't see any cracks or fissures where I was bending it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189952&d=1694396210
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189953&d=1694396210
Here is the small tab I created. 1/8" by 3/4" steel that I elected to spray paint with a rustoleum black. Its drying now for final fitment once I iron out my power steering cable routing.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189946&d=1694396187
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189947&d=1694396187
As you may be able to see, I tapped the two holes with 8/32" threads that will secure to the u-shaped bracket in the bottom of the expansion tank. The four holes on the other end will secure the bracket to the top of the breeze radiator shroud. It fits very securely.
One note. If/as you do this, be aware of how both the bracket holding up the tank fits at the front of the 3/4" cross bar. If you leave it to long, or if you raise the breeze hinge to high, the bracket can stick out and bind the breeze hinge. You just need to drop the hinge a bit, look from the side/back to ensure it can rotate freely. This could cause problems later as you angle your radiator.

Junbug

09-18-2023, 10:49 AM

So I had a busy few weeks but I've been able to dedicate a good 1/2 day every weekend to the car. Still have a goal of the first start in mid-October.

For starters, I learned that I don't need this speed sensor connector coming off the rear harness. As I have the Vintage gauges and they're fed by the GPS antenna, I cut the wires, taped them off, put shrink wrap on them and tucked them back into the loom.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190138&d=1694839693
I also made some solid progress on the cooling system. In my last post you can see the coolant expansion tank, the two brackets I created and then installed. Next I installed the Breeze upper, lower radiator mounts and the radiator shroud. All pretty straight forward though with many temp installs and adjustments to make sure all the brackets fit well and I could maintain the 51 degree radiator angle. Its starting to look like a car! Or at least has all the pieces visible that together make a car!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190168&d=1694971425
Here are a few more detailed photos of the radiator and expansion tank hose connections. I ended up buying the Mishimoto silicone ancillary coolant hose kit. Everything fit perfectly on the expansion tank and to both the engine and the radiator. Kit comes with three hoses: one to connect the bottom of the expansion tank to the engine, one connecting the steam overflow from the engine to the top of the expansion tank, and one connecting the top right (DS) of the radiator to the expansion tank (including the built in reducer). All hoses come with hose clamps as well. Great kit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190217&d=1695049598
For the lower radiator hose, I used the kit provided hose and cut about 1" off the top where it connects to the lower coolant output on the engine. I trimmed just enough to make sure it cleared the steering shaft and my brake line. I searched a lot of threads and asked fellow builders about the best routing for this lower hose, and through trial and error, I ended up finding it fit best, with fewest kinks or twisting of the hose, running it over the X-brace and down the front of the PS rack.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190213&d=1695049598
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190211&d=1695049560
I plan to purchase the Gates power grip hose clamps for the two large hoses, the others I'll use the Mishimoto provided hose clamps. Those should all go on in the next week or so.
For the top hose, I purchased a Motorcraft (KM5114) hose from Amazon. I understand this hose is for a ford F-150, but works perfect for this application. The end connecting to the coyote has a Ford designed wire snap connector designed to mate to the Coyote. One adjustment many others have also made is to cut another small notch in the outer ring, allowing you to rotate the hose and hard plastic upper joint about 15-20 degrees away from the PS belt. Very simple to do and the hose locks in place perfectly. Disregard my PS pressure lines... they're in place but I"m still fabricating a bracket to hold them in place away from the fan shroud and the radiator hoses.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190212&d=1695049560
Below is a top down pic of all the hoses connected, but no clamps tightened.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190218&d=1695049625

Junbug

09-18-2023, 10:56 AM

I also discovered this connector on the Tremec TKX isn't needed/necessary. Not sure what its intended for, but others have recommended to just leave it along for the ride...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190219&d=1695049625
Additionally I spent some time daisy chaining my dash gauges together and getting a successful test done! Unfortunately, neither FFR or Speedhut send the daisy chain connecting wires that the instructions say to use. I took some liberties with figuring out the best way to wire the gauges, but it works for now!
The gauge dash wiring isn't finished, or secured but the Molex Mini-Fit connectors were great for getting this done. There is a learning curve to getting the wires and pins connected. I do recommend getting (or borrowing) a Molex connector crimping tool. They are very pricey but its even better when a neighbor has one they're willing to loan out!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190209&d=1695049560
Disregard the blue painters tape that makes the gauges look purple... I'm trying to keep the chrome bezels from getting scratched as I work on the dash and gauges :)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190208&d=1695049560

Jryasko

09-18-2023, 10:13 PM

Junbug

10-02-2023, 10:00 PM

Nice work. Couple of suggestions, that lower rad hose connected to the engine will swell when you run it and it gets hot and be up against that steering shaft, might have to trim off more where it connects to the engine. Not sure why all the washers on bellhousing bolts, you may want to get correct length bolts to install. Turn that MAF adapter tube so the sensor faces the front of the car. Just a couple things I have run into on my build.

Thanks for the tips! The bellhousing bolts came like that from Mike Forte. I trust he did it for a reason, and now its buried inside the car... I"ll leave it for now. I'll take a bit more off the lower radiator hose... it clears the steering shaft by a finger but I'll trust your experience regarding the swelling. The MAF adapter tube should be facing the right directions, per the build manual and others... I've often been confused as to what way the sensor should face.
Thanks!

JohnK

10-02-2023, 10:13 PM

The MAF adapter tube should be facing the right directions, per the build manual and others... I've often been confused as to what way the sensor should face.
Thanks!

One reason that MAF orientation can be confusing is because it is different for the Gen 2 vs Gen 3 coyote. For the Gen 2 engine the MAF should be pointed away from the engine whereas on the Gen3 it should be pointed toward the engine like you have it.

edwardb

10-03-2023, 04:45 AM

One reason that MAF orientation can be confusing is because it is different for the Gen 2 vs Gen 3 coyote. For the Gen 2 engine the MAF should be pointed away from the engine whereas on the Gen3 it should be pointed toward the engine like you have it.

Sure about that? I've done both Gen 2 and Gen 3 Coyote builds and in my experience they're both the same. In both cases (no reason for them to be different) the sensor responds to the amount of air flowing through the intake tube and into the throttle body. The open end of the sensor (the part that is in the airflow) must be pointed toward the air cleaner. The engine will typically start but almost immediately shut back off if the MAF is backwards and the PCM doesn't get the proper MAF signal.

JohnK

10-03-2023, 09:41 AM

I'm only as sure as the FFR instructions, which to say, not very sure. :p However, the FFR Gen 2 coyote install instructions state on page 56 (https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Coyote-Fitment-roadster-rev-2B.pdf):

"Adjust the Mass air meter so that the mass air plug is on the far side as the Ford Performance instructions recommend."

Whereas the FFR Gen 3 coyote install instructions state on page 71 (https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Coyote-Gen-3-Fitment-roadster-rev-1H.pdf):

"Adjust the Mass air meter so that the mass air plug is on the side close to the engine as the Ford Performance instructions recommend."

All that said, I agree with you that the important thing is for the opening of the MAF to be pointed toward the air cleaner. I'm not sure why or if clocking of the MAF relative to the engine makes any difference at all, but I figured someone went to the trouble to write this so probably better to follow it. The fact that it's different between Gen 2 to Gen 3 does make it all seem a bit more suspect, but back to Bryan's point it does also add quite a bit of confusion on the proper way to install it.

edwardb

10-03-2023, 02:57 PM

Blitzboy54

10-03-2023, 03:07 PM

I also discovered this connector on the Tremec TKX isn't needed/necessary. Not sure what its intended for, but others have recommended to just leave it along for the ride...

I believe that is your reverse switch. If you are using backup lights you would run it through that switch so the lights turned on when the transmission was in reverse. I have a T5 and mine is a little different but its the same 2 pin round connector.

Junbug

10-03-2023, 06:31 PM

I think what those instructions are referring to is it's generally considered best practice to have the MAF sensor on the outside curve of the air tube going into the throttle body. Not the actual direction of the MAF sensor in the MAF tube. It will only work one way as previously described.

Paul, John,
I appreciate the discussion and confirms that there is not clarity in the instructions. Both of your inputs are helpful and hopefully help future builders. Mine is installed with the sensor facing the air intake, pointing away from the engine...
-Bryan

Junbug

10-03-2023, 06:39 PM

So I've been working on a bunch of small details at this point prepping for my first start in the next few weeks. Finished installing the fan, and completed the wiring using a weatherpack connector in the event I need to remove or pull the fan in the future. I still need to secure the wiring properly but I did create a ground pigtail to the frame as the Coyote Fan blunt cut wire didn't have one. Pretty easy location to find a solid spot.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190813&d=1696375717

Also installed the horns. Pretty straight forward, and I need to add the second screw to hold them in place. Wiring was also pretty straightforward.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190812&d=1696375717

I also attached the Lokar clevis to the stainless steel bolt I'm using for my E-Brake. Additionally I trimmed down the brake cables so they would fit through the Lokar piece. May need to adjust things a bit more later but the e-brake keeps the wheels from turning. No movement at all once I pull the handle, which only goes one or two clicks up (I do depress the button on the end since I hear the teeth can get worn out if you just pull the handle).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=190815&d=1696375717

Junbug

10-03-2023, 06:43 PM

Next big steps are fluids. Fill the engine with oil, radiator with coolant, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, and brake fluid. Also install a battery! Then once my son is back from school for a few weeks we'll test all the systems, bleed the brakes and go for our first start!
I have a growing list of things to do after first start and before go-cart but focus now is getting things ready for first start!

Junbug

10-09-2023, 11:04 PM

Some additional incremental progress. Finished up the cooling system. Installed the upper and lower radiator hoses with the Gates Power Grip clamps (sold as AllStar Performance at Summit). I also trimmed about 3/4" off the engine side of the lower radiator hose connection to the engine as recommended by Jryasko since the coolant tubes can swell a bit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191010&d=1696910208

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191011&d=1696910208
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191012&d=1696910208

I also have figured out almost all the dash wiring. I'm only completing the connections required for first start. Then I'll finish drilling holes for the remaining switches and levers on the dash. No need to complicate first start... It does look like a mess, but I took this pic in the midst of organizing my wiring...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191013&d=1696910208

Aiming for fluid fills this weekend on the Trans, Engine oil, coolant and brakes. Brakes will be the last to fill/test, only because they shouldn't be needed for the first start and can be done later if I run into a time crunch.

Junbug

10-13-2023, 03:38 PM

Latest updates to the dash... got the dash pieced together enough for the first start.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191128&d=1697229134

Behind the dash is still a mess, but I plan to keep everything relatively loose in the event I need to troubleshoot. Once the rest of my switches and indicators are in place i'll tighten up the wiring harness and snug everything up.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191129&d=1697229134

Lastly is a pic of my power bus. The arrows point to specific lines.
Blue Arrow points at the main power coming off my cutoff switch.
Red Arrow points to the line going direct to my alternator.
Yellow Arrow points to the line that powers the main FFR fuse box via the provided harness.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191127&d=1697229134

Let me know if you have any observations? Have all fluids on hand so I'll be filling things this weekend. PS reservior, Radiator/overflow, engine oil, transmission. Plan to leave the brake system until after first start.
-Bryan

Souleman

10-13-2023, 09:38 PM

maclonchas

10-14-2023, 05:01 AM

Bryan,

I am also getting an engine from Mike Forte, albeit a Boss 347 W/Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI and am looking forward to the install. Can you tell me what engine leveler you used?

Thanks

Bill

Mike.Bray

10-14-2023, 11:29 AM

Bryan,

I am also getting an engine from Mike Forte, albeit a Boss 347 W/Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI and am looking forward to the install. Can you tell me what engine leveler you used?

Thanks

Bill

I can tell you I tried one from Northern Tool and it was terrible. This one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W41036) worked really well, worth the money 100%. With it I was able to remove and reinstall the engine/trans by myself.

danmas

10-14-2023, 12:04 PM

I lent Junbug mine.

This one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LXQUPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Junbug

10-16-2023, 10:43 PM

Bryan, the E-brake mod looks great! I've read Lokar no longer makes the clevis set EdwardB used, so what parts did you end up using? I'm about to tackle the E-brake set up and don't like the idea of routing the cable under the 4". I'm actually shocked FFR still does it. If you don't mind, what pulleys/bolt and clevis set up did you use and where did you get them? I gather you probably used the pulleys from McMaster, #3434T24, but the rest is becoming more interesting to find. I'd appreciate any insight you can provide.

Thanks. I bought the clevis from Summit. The remainder of the parts I bought from my local Ace hardware... Stainless steel bolt and nuts. For the pulleys, yes, #3434T24 is the two I ordered. The bolt that runs through it I also got in stainless from Ace. I don't recall the sizing but I always try to bring in the parts and fit the nuts/bolts in store before I buy. You'll need to cut the ends of the e-brake cables off and thread them through the lokar clevis but it tightens up really well. No movement at all, so far.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-WCA8070

Junbug

10-16-2023, 10:44 PM

Bryan,

I am also getting an engine from Mike Forte, albeit a Boss 347 W/Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI and am looking forward to the install. Can you tell me what engine leveler you used?

Thanks

Bill

See Danmas post for the link. He was kind enough to share his lift and leveler with me. Worked great. Key is to ensure your engine is level when you start. It will get a bit crooked when tilting it with the type Danmas shared, but once you get it back to level, it dropped it perfectly into the engine mounts.

Junbug

10-16-2023, 10:48 PM

Also, Big news! We had our first start today! Video link below. I had a brain fart yesterday when i didn't have power to my ignition. A single question on the forum and a couple of quick answer from some experts here and they straitened me out. I had "dieted" the ignition leg of my harness a bit too much. Once I looked at the wire diagram again I realized I had taken out the IGN->COL cable. Once I dug it out of my box-o-unused/cut cables, everything worked exactly as planned...
https://youtube.com/shorts/E-yKEphqwVU?si=fx6O24YqbQ28fJCC

Junbug

11-16-2023, 09:34 PM

Its been a bit of time since I last updated but since the first start I've slowed down a bit, spent more time with family and went to two weddings, two weekends in a row. Oh, and had a leak in the bathroom that resulted in a full gut and replacement of the shower pan.
I've completed a handful of small tasks, installed a OEM Ford clutch cable, that is so much smoother than the FFR provided one. Along with the clutch cable I installed a firewall cable adjuster. All of that was pretty straight forward. I also installed my Gasn exhaust pipes and tightened up the ball flanges. They're essentially just hanging off the headers/ball flanges right now but I don't plan to do much go-carting until the spring, and aside from testing my brakes she will stay in the garage all winter (we are already having many nights below freezing).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192379&d=1700187997
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=192380&d=1700187997

I'm slowly building my list of sequential tasks to accomplish, and putting thought into how I want to finish my dash wiring, dash mounts, seat sliders, etc.

Junbug

01-21-2024, 10:12 PM

So its been a few weeks, but we've been slowly making some progress... Bled the brakes two weeks ago and after a few boneheaded mistakes got everything snugged up and no leaks. We used a combination of using the Motive pressure bleeder then followed the wilwood bleeding video instructions. The brakes feel solid all around and I plan to bleed them once more before first go cart. We didn't fill the Motive pressure tank with fluid, we just filled the reservoirs (front brakes/rear brakes) and pressurized each system until very few to no bubbles were coming out the bleed lines. I would stop periodically to ensure that the reservoir didn't run out of fluid.
One tip, go around to all of your brake line joints and unions and verify each is tight. I thought I did this at least two times, but I happened to miss one line that was just finger tight (flexible line from hard line to caliper)... which caused me to believe it was leaking. So I drained the entire front system, then when I went to take the flexible line off, I realized it was barely finger tight! So I suggest checking all the joints/unions more than once! Anyway, I tightened it up, filled the reservoir and pressure bled that system again. No issues once it was tightened up!

Junbug

01-21-2024, 10:15 PM

I also tested out a new rivnut tool i bought on my fuel system covers in the trunk area. Per some great guidance from someone on the site, they recommended I expand the hole covering the fuel pump connection. Just in case I ever need to get in there, having a bigger hole will make it much easier. I just used part of the piece I cut out of the trunk floor to add the drop trunk to make the new cover. Additionally I decided to make use of some of the spare/extra decorative screws I bought to hold my dash to the frame. I'm not sure if I plan to keep them or not, but I'll see how it looks once the carpet is installed. I also plan to spray the lower trunk area with additional sound insulation, once the weather warms up in the spring... it's been pretty cold the last few weeks in CO!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194766&d=1705892493

Junbug

01-28-2024, 10:04 PM

More incremental progress this weekend. Finally finished putting the glovebox together. I thought it was very tedious and a bit frustrating but in the end it seems fine. I’ll be pulling the locking tab and catch out again to powder coat them but other than that it seems done. I also plan to look into a different locking mechanism on then glovebox door. Opening it can be a bit finicky as your only leverage to pull the door open is using the key. Something with a finger hold or bull tab would be much more convenient.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195095&d=1706496455
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195096&d=1706496455

Junbug

01-28-2024, 10:17 PM

Also plan to finalize my dash switch locations. Laid things out as you can see in the pics below. Plan to drill and mount things this week. Still working on final locations for my headlight switch as the four-way hazard switch. Somewhere above the lower dash area is the plan.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195094&d=1706496455

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195101&d=1706498153

Junbug

02-04-2024, 10:25 PM

A little more progress today on the dash. Drilled the final holes for gauge/buttons and switches. Only holes left to drill are for the dash mounts (I plan on having two roughly equal from center.)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195318&d=1707103174
At first I didn't like the contrast between the black plastic and the chrome, but its grown on me, and the amount of work to hand file all the small notches for each is dissuading me from changing them now :)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195319&d=1707103174
The pic above is from my drivers perspective.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195317&d=1707103174
I plan to put the two holes for mounting the dash near where the dark blue painters tape is with the small gold sharpie marker. Not final on the location yet, but its close to those locations where it won't interfere with the glovebox or any of the dash gauges.

Junbug

02-05-2024, 10:23 PM

Here are the brackets I made to go under the top dash rail and the rivnuts, screws and washers that will hold the dash in place. I also have a grab handle under the glovebox with 1/4 inch steel support bars and three different under dash supports (DS, PS, middle) that will help keep the dash in place. I still haven't determined how I plan to secure these tabs to the top rail, but likely either rivets or rivnuts...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195352&d=1707189297

Junbug

02-17-2024, 11:33 PM

So today I finished wiring all the headlights, brakes, taillights and turn signals. Surprisingly, everything worked on the first try. Only things I needed to fix was swap the poles on the 4-way hazards so the switch worked opposite and swap the high beam/low beam wires in the weatherpack connectors to my headlights as I guessed. The wires on the Hellas lights with LED bulbs from Breeze didn't say which was high beam. Pretty quick fix and everything is working perfect. On my RT turn signal i wired up the button on the end of the stalk for hi/low beam and flash to pass. I'm actually very happy all of that is done, and that it went right the first time.
The IDIDIT relay was easy to wire and I found a nice snug spot where it fit just perfectly.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195737&d=1708230982
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195736&d=1708230982
Special thanks to Fman and Ted G, as well as Edward B and Papa for their previous posts and guidance on wiring the RT turn signal... The image below was referenced numerous times through the process.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195735&d=1708230982
Tomorrow, I'll be finishing out wiring the courtesy lights on the interior of the cockpit, driver and passenger side, along with adding the FFR provided LED lights to the trunk. I added a wire to the license plate light when I was finalizing the taillight wiring. I'm hoping it works with the courtesy lights.

Junbug

02-25-2024, 11:57 PM

So lots of incremental progress and I finally got around to powder coating again. Did about 3 batches/cycles and caught up on a lot of parts I've been wanting to install but needed them to be PC'ed first. One was the LeMans fuel filler cap. I dis-assembled it into its separate individual moving parts and powder coated the parts individually. Also I got a locking fuel cap from Breeze that resulted in some modification to the filler neck as it gets replaced. The part I'm holding in my had here I cut off, unceremoniously with a hack saw.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196075&d=1708922983
Then the remaining inner hole needed to be expanded a bit to accommodate the new locking filler cap. I did that with a hand router, very slowly and gently.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196076&d=1708922983
Once that was done, I started re-assembling everything.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196077&d=1708922983
View from the bottom with the new locking filler cap installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196079&d=1708923023
View from the top.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196078&d=1708923023
Final view of everything assembled.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196080&d=1708923023

Junbug

02-26-2024, 12:07 AM

I also finally finished assembling and mounting the dash.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196068&d=1708922950

Here is a picture of my under dash support for the passenger grab handle. All powder coated 1/8"x1/2" steel with stainless steel hardware. I set rivnuts into the 2"x2" square dash bar that the setup is bolted into. Rock solid.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196069&d=1708922950

Here is my under dash, center console bracket. It's primary function is to hold the courtesy light as well as my gauge adjustment buttons. Made from the original trunk aluminum I cut to install the drop trunk.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196070&d=1708922950

I also installed support brackets on the end of each side of the CF dash, each with a small LED tied to the courtesy light circuit. This one is on the passenger side and you can see a little more of the grab handle supports. You can also see the U-Brackets i put on each support. I plan to drill through the bottom of the dash and put hardware through to keep the dash more secure. That will be later once the dash goes in for "good".
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196071&d=1708922950
And drivers side:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196072&d=1708922950

Only remaining tasks on the dash are to drill holes thr

mmklaxer

02-26-2024, 06:35 AM

lookin' good!

Junbug

03-05-2024, 09:43 PM

Last weekend I worked a bunch of small but time consuming tasks. I decided to install the trunk struts. Since I installed the Breeze Cubby, i needed to drill or cut through the cubby wall. That wasn't too hard, but I did spend some time ensuring the struts would clear the roll bars. The struts aren't perfectly straight, they have a slight cant toward the inside of the car but the struts function fine and clear while the trunk arms are at both the open and closed positions.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196496&d=1709692555

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196495&d=1709692555

I ended up using a 1-1/2 inch hole saw and drilled small pilot holes first.

Here you can see the final location of the DR front pin for the strut. There is about 3/4" clearance between the strut and the roll bar.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196497&d=1709692581

Junbug

03-05-2024, 09:48 PM

The next project was final placement of the wiper motor and wiper motor wiring.
Here's the final location for my wiper motor. There is just enough room for the wiring to clear the top of the motor and stay below the 3/4" bar. Likewise, on the bottom there is enough room for my coyote harness to fit under the motor, and stay snug up against the firewall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196498&d=1709692581

I used the factory cutout on the PS side of the firewall for the location of the wiper wiring to penetrate. Pretty straight forward.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196499&d=1709692581

Junbug

03-05-2024, 09:50 PM

Lastly I started securing some of the wiring harnesses as well as riveting in the F-panels.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196492&d=1709692555

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196494&d=1709692555

This last pic is the headlight harness running under the radiator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196493&d=1709692555

460.465USMC

03-07-2024, 10:50 PM

I like what you're doing, Bryan. Really looks like a quality build. A number of custom touches.

Junbug

03-31-2024, 04:31 PM

We put the wheels on her, gave her a rough alignment (with strings and following Jeff Kleiner's recommendations on the upper control arms) fired her up and took her out for the first go-cart ride. Both my son and wife came along (at different times)... She ran great, and only one minor issue, considering all that could have gone wrong!
https://youtu.be/QqAKTAfHerI

https://youtube.com/shorts/uv2vQP024FU?si=LaM5pIQSPQHK2-nG

Lots of big smiles!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197523&d=1711920841

Junbug

03-31-2024, 04:39 PM

So, post first drive we went around and checked all joints, unions and connections for leaks, looseness and drips. Nothing to speak of except the coolant expansion tank. I found that there appears to be a small crack or bad weld on the bottom of the tank, where the overpressure release eyelet from the fill cap goes through the tank and comes out the bottom. I verified it wasn't coolant leaking through that eyelet, but rather forming a drip and coming through a small crack/gap in the weld. See point of arrow in pic below. I've reached out to the manufacturer to see what they plan to do. Worst case I'll need to take it to a local aluminum/fab shop and see if they can fix it. I'm not an expert at welding or aluminum welding so I'll go with asking the pro's for advice on this.

One more disappointing part will be taking off the gates power grip clamps and having to buy new ones...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197522&d=1711920841

460.465USMC

04-05-2024, 09:18 AM

We put the wheels on her, gave her a rough alignment (with strings and following Jeff Kleiner's recommendations on the upper control arms) fired her up and took her out for the first go-cart ride. Both my son and wife came along (at different times)... She ran great, and only one minor issue, considering all that could have gone wrong!

Lots of big smiles!

Congrats, Bryan! Huge milestone with great success.

Junbug

04-06-2024, 08:17 PM

So the company I ordered the expansion tank ended up shipping a new one. Couldn't get a hold of them via phone, or an email response for a few days, but miraculously got a shipping confirmation on Wednesday... The replacement expansion tank should arrive on Monday. So I spend the day draining what fluid I could from the leaking tank, removing the power grip clamps and taking the tank off. Went relatively smoothly, though it was painful cutting the clamps off as they're single use. Ordering more replacements tonight.
Additionally I took the time to cut/fit my radiator protector/cover. Tip of the hat to JohnK, as he did the same solution and it seems easy, straight forward and simple. Plus I think it looks great. I may also change out the upper breeze hinge bolts as they contrast with the other stainless bolts, but that's something that can come later.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197918&d=1712452406

Junbug

06-03-2024, 09:10 PM

So life has been busy but I've been knocking out some small tasks here and there. My son graduated from high school and is working this summer getting ready for college in the fall. Some of the small tasks were buttoning up the wiring harness, securing it in place, replaced the coolant expansion tank as it was leaking (new one isn't leaking on test runs!), working on adjusting the brake balance bar, assembling the seat bases and test fitting the seats.

This past weekend we took the body down from the ceiling lift to prep and spray the inside with Raptor UPR liner. First we sanded the inside by hand, to rough up the surface and knock down any stray fibers or "extra" clumps of epoxy. Then I spent about 4 hrs taping off everything i thought needed. Next was the first spray coat of the UPR Raptor bed liner. I have a big 25 gallon compressor and I never had any issues. Set the regulator at 50 psi UPR (recommends between 40-60 PSI). I bought the kit that came with a spray gun. This first coat I focused on getting even coverage across the entire underbody. It took 2 of the 4 quarts I purchased to get even coverage everywhere.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200278&d=1717466159
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200279&d=1717466159

I let it sit for 60 mins, as recommended then started on a second coat. For the second coat I focused on getting extra coverage on the underside of the wheel wells. I used the 3rd quart to cover all these areas in detail. I kept one quart in reserve as I haven't decided how to coat the drop trunk and lower trunk area. Since I don't really need heat insulation back there I'll probably spray it with the UPR Raptor rather than the remaining LizardSkin I still have. Also the UPR Raptor cleans up much easier than the Lizardskin.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200280&d=1717466159
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200281&d=1717466159

Once done with spraying I let it sit for about 45 mins then started to peel off the tape/paper. Came out clean and looking great. Main focus was to avoid future starring of the paint if a rock hits the underside of the body. I also plan to add the wheel-well liners later this summer.

Next weekend will be test mounting the body for the first time! Wish me luck!

Junbug

06-09-2024, 09:28 PM

So we test fit the body today for the first time. Nerve racking, but in the end, it fit quite nice. I'll be linking a separate post asking questions about where/what I need to trim and adjust. Overall it went quite well... For prep, I removed the roll bars, removed the steering wheel, put the tires on (though this isn't necessary). Other preparation was to add 3/4" blocks at the intersection of the horizontal square bars along the engine compartment, and the cross bar that holds the upper radiator. Those help keep the body at the right height, making it easier to put your quick jack bolts through the body holes. Also, I didn't have any foam, or bulb seal anywhere... I don't want to tear that up on the first fitment.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200564&d=1717985293

The back end is pushed all the way forward, and just slightly touches the back end of the vertical trunk supports, and rests on the peak of the breeze cubby wall (I may trim that by 1/4" or so). The rear quickjack bolts line up almost perfectly with the Kleiner Trunk mod so I think the back end seems good.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200557&d=1717985246

This is the DS outrigger which I know will need to move about 1/2" toward the passenger side. I believe this will help the engine compartment hole line up more evenly between the two hood hinge support brackets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200550&d=1717985221

This is the PS outrigger which I'll likely move about 1/4" to the passenger side, for the same reason above. Likewise I'll make sure the space between the two outriggers stays the same, per the advice on the forum
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200551&d=1717985221

The engine compartment hole seems OK. I believe the key fitment here is even spacing between each of the hood hinge mounting brackets. You want the same overhang (1/4"-1/2") on each side.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200549&d=1717985221

I know I'll need to do some trimming on the dash rolled edge, especially on the DS. I will first take the body off and adjust the outriggers, then re-fit the body to see what shifts around before measuring and taking any material off the dash rolled edge. The PS seems to have a bit of a gap, but overall fitting quite well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200555&d=1717985246
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=200556&d=1717985246

Jeff Kleiner

06-09-2024, 10:05 PM

You really need to have the bulb seal on. Don't try to center the hood opening on the tubes around the engine bay---the hood opening is in the center of the body. You center the nose by measuring from the shock tower to the outer edge of the wheel opening.

Jeff

Junbug

06-10-2024, 03:04 PM

Will do. Thanks Jeff!

Junbug

06-30-2024, 12:37 AM

Second body fitment and things seem to be lining up well. Added bulb seal and the 1/4" foam on the 3/4" square engine bay bars. Lots of pics below with notes.
Fit is similar. Body sits about 1/4"-1/2" in front of the door striker plates, trimmed dash roll is now spaced from the dash.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201169&d=1719724970

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201170&d=1719724970

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201157&d=1719724892

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201159&d=1719724892

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201158&d=1719724892

The body also seems centered... I "adjusted" the front outriggers a bit toward the PS, and now I get about 17-1/4" inches measured from the top of the front shock pillar (same place on both sides)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201171&d=1719724970

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201172&d=1719724991

Trunk bulb seal is pretty tightly squeezed and everything else seems to be aligned.

Mike.Bray

06-30-2024, 08:53 AM

Looking good!

Junbug

06-30-2024, 09:09 PM

Stayed busy this weekend and added the fuel filler and Le Mans cap. Seems I keep finding small screws and bolts I need to powder coat!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201226&d=1719799629

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201227&d=1719799629

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201228&d=1719799629

Junbug

06-30-2024, 10:09 PM

I also added the weather-strip and fit the trunk... not final but good enough to move forward with other tasks. I also don't want to do too much as Kleiner will be doing the body. I just want to be able to drive this summer!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=201231&d=1719803188

Junbug

07-20-2024, 12:35 PM

So I've been slowly making progress on the final body fitment and added the trunk and hood. Hood was a bear to get mounted but pretty easy to adjust once mounted.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202063&d=1721496084
Inside with struts...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202064&d=1721496084
Added the trunk light and license plate holder.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202065&d=1721496084

Dave108

08-12-2024, 09:24 PM

Junbug

08-18-2024, 02:56 PM

I think i've done the same thing and 1 year later. I have no power at the ignition (Batt. terminal). So how did you fix it? Run a wire from the 12v buss bar to the ignition Batt terminal?

Dave,
Sorry for the delayed response. I had "dieted" out the actual power cable to the ignition/key. I hadn't cut it off yet, but it was just flopping around behind the dash. Once I connected it up, verified with the wiring diagram, she started right up, well after turning over a few times she did!
-Bryan

Junbug

08-18-2024, 02:58 PM

I made some incremental progress over the last few weeks. Added the front quick jacks after the grommets arrived. I had to shape the body holes a bit which took some time, but I think they look great. I'll likely cut the tips off the bolts so the end cap acorn nuts cover the shiny bolt head. I'll PC those and the washers when the weather cools off a bit. i can't PC the nylon lock nuts but I have some matching spray paint that should keep them muted..
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202894&d=1724010778

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=202895&d=1724010778

Jeff Kleiner

08-18-2024, 04:03 PM

Pro tip: if you change the quick jack tubes to 3/4" O.D. they'll fit the grommets.

Jeff

Blitzboy54

08-18-2024, 06:20 PM

Pro tip: if you change the quick jack tubes to 3/4" O.D. they'll fit the grommets.

Jeff

Good to know

Jim1855

08-18-2024, 09:58 PM

Looks good, I like the black.
You could use cap or acorn nuts. These provide a clean look.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/cap-nuts-2~/
Jim

Junbug

10-20-2024, 09:12 PM

I've been busy with small things on the car, putting the trunk back on, trunk shocks, license plate light wiring through the trunk. One relatively big job was final hanging of the side pipes and adding some recommended exhaust hangers at the 1 into 4 headers. Pics below. I may follow JohnK's lead an see about putting a binding around the outside diameter of the rubber. Seems to be stretching a lot.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205486&d=1729476036
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205488&d=1729476036
I also finished drilling and mounting the under-body exhaust hangers. Learned a tough lesson about stainless steel bolts and nuts. Bottom line, use anti-seize.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205487&d=1729476036
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205489&d=1729476036

Mike.Bray

10-21-2024, 07:53 AM

I wrapped these around my rubber supports, seem to work well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GFT3HJD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Jeff Kleiner

10-21-2024, 08:36 AM

Junbug

10-26-2024, 01:25 PM

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205489&d=1729476036

That's gonna dig into the body. You really need to loosen at the ball flange and swing the rear of the pipe outward then reposition the hanger.

Jeff
Jeff,
How far off the body should the hanger bracket be? I see how it could dig in as is, just curious how much I need to shift the hanger connector away from the body? I also assume I’ll need to drill new holes for the inward bolt of the hanger?
Thanks,
-Bryan

Jeff Kleiner

10-26-2024, 02:05 PM

Jeff,
How far off the body should the hanger bracket be? I see how it could dig in as is, just curious how much I need to shift the hanger connector away from the body? I also assume I’ll need to drill new holes for the inward bolt of the hanger?
Thanks,
-Bryan

It's all a process. The hangers get positioned after the pipes have been matched to the body but that isn't determined until after the body is in it's final position which is done when fitting and adjusting the doors. By the looks of your photo it doesn't appear that you have attached the body to the chassis at the rocker panel. To get the body reasonably close, on the driver's side push it in as far as possible in front of the door and attach the rocker panel to the chassis. Just ahead of the rear wheel pull it outward about 3/4" and attach it. On the passenger side push it in as far as possible in front of the door and attach then attach it ahead of the rear wheel where it sits without pushing in or pulling out. With that done adjust the side pipes so that they are parallel to the body and let that be your guide for locating the hangers.

Jeff

Junbug

12-15-2024, 10:47 PM

So I've been busy with a lot of small details and started the process for registration, title, state inspection and license plates.

First step was visiting the DMV... Fun! At my first appointment I had all my paperwork on hand, but didn't have the insurance active, as I was waiting for the day the temp tags would be provided. Turns out they needed it, and wouldn't wait for my insurance to email me. Second appointment later the same week, and everything went relatively smooth. Brought in my FFR provided order/invoice list and my invoice from Mike Forte on the engine/transmission. Once they got their pound of flesh for taxes, and provided a list of additional paperwork to bring back, I was out the door with a Temp tag.

Next step was an alignment. I'd previously called a number of local shops and they all pointed me to Steve's Automotive in Longmont. Good opportunity to get some miles on the car on the way there. Long story about that day posted as a question on the forum, but the alignment went well and the specs were as close to others I've seen posted here. I'll provide a pic of the specs below.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207584&d=1734320803

Also added the wind wings, sun visors, bled the brakes again.

Tuesday I have the State Patrol inspection, and I believe I'm all set for that, as long as the weather holds out.... forecast to be 52 that day...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207583&d=1734320511

460.465USMC

12-17-2024, 03:01 PM

Congrats, Bryan! Looking really good. Hope the rest of the licensing process goes smoothly.

Blitzboy54

12-17-2024, 08:40 PM

She looks real sharp. How long are you going to drive it before paint? Love the wheels

danmas

12-17-2024, 10:32 PM

Fabulous! Congratulations!

Junbug

12-22-2024, 05:13 PM

She looks real sharp. How long are you going to drive it before paint? Love the wheels

Plan to "drive" in paint until it heads to Jeff Kleiner this spring. I say drive, but with the temps and road conditions in CO, I doubt I'll get many miles...

Junbug

12-22-2024, 05:23 PM

So I have been pretty stressed about the drive to the CO State Patrol for the VIN Inspection, roadworthy inspection. Considering weather, having not gone through this before and general uneasiness about shakeout drives I was concerned I wouldn't get there or it wouldn't pass for some oversight on my part.

So after about a 45 day wait (appointments are only scheduled 60 days in advance and book up that day) I finally made it to Golden at the State Patrol Headquarters ahead of my appointment. In summary I was baffled at how quick and basic the inspection was. He asked for the paperwork from the DMV registration office, that included my temp tag/registration, looked at my insurance card, and asked me to start the car. Then asked to hear the horn, turn on the headlights, actuate right and left turn indicators, walked around to the back of the car, asked me to pump the brakes, actuate turn signals then turn the car off. That was it.... He then went inside, got some more paperwork for me and said 8-10 weeks I'd get a letter from the state and a call from him to come back down and get the CO Vehicle ID (aka VIN) attached to the car. Took my $53 check and said that was it....

The drive home was a relief, and I actually felt great. Big confidence builder to finally get that "pass" and nod that I'd done everything right, at least in the eyes of the State of CO. I know I need more shakedown drives, I still need to bleed the brakes again as they're soft, but functional. I have a short 10-15 item punch list to work over the winter but overall I'm feeling very good about the car...

And it was so sweet to put some miles on it, albeit very cold (40 degrees, with 35-40 mph cross winds).

gbranham

12-22-2024, 05:33 PM

Congrats! That's a huge milestone.

Greg

danmas

12-22-2024, 09:48 PM

Rian_Colorado

12-24-2024, 11:50 AM

Bummer I hadn't connected with you prior!
When I registered my Coupe (granted, it's in WELD county) - the fine folks at the counter only looked at my invoice from FFR, and only taxed me on that alone!

Also, there's a state patrol office in Gunbarrel (quite a bit closer to you I think!) - Then again, shorter drive = not as much fun driving the car! I too had built up the inspection to be quite more that it was. Pretty easy. Also - when they get around to attaching the VIN plate, they usually come to you (at least they did with mine and a few others I know).

The guy at Steve's alignment did mine and several others. He know's what he's doing at this point for sure! He's at a lot of the cars and coffee stuff, so he'll likely tell everyone that he aligned your car... lol.

I'm Jealous that your car is off to Kleiner! I need to find out how far out he is and get on the list.....

Congratulations! Car looks great

Rian

Junbug

12-26-2024, 05:00 PM

We had a nice day earlier this week and with my son home from college, armed with a new camera and lens for Christmas, we took a short drive and he took some great shots.... All credit to him, all I did was drive (which was the fun part if you ask me)!
Lots of small things to still do on the car and of course tweaks and adjustments now that I'm getting a few miles on the car...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208090&d=1735249858

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208088&d=1735249822

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208092&d=1735249858

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208091&d=1735249858

Blitzboy54

12-26-2024, 05:29 PM

Those are great looking pics. Your son did a nice job. It’s so fun having a driveable toy.

Nigel Allen

12-26-2024, 07:43 PM

Top quality photos, I particularly like the last one. Great day out by the look of it.

Rebostar

12-27-2024, 03:10 PM

Great looking pics. The car will look fantastic when you get it painted. What colors do you have in mind?

cv2065

12-27-2024, 05:26 PM

Great shots! Lighting is everything. Car is looking stellar. Love the wheels!

Junbug

12-29-2024, 10:03 PM

Great looking pics. The car will look fantastic when you get it painted. What colors do you have in mind?
I’m leaning toward a dark metallic grey, black stripes and a thin pinstripe on the outside of the stripes as close to the bronze wheel color as possible.

Blitzboy54

12-30-2024, 09:41 AM

I’m leaning toward a dark metallic grey, black stripes and a thin pinstripe on the outside of the stripes as close to the bronze wheel color as possible.

Yeah, that will really pop. I love a 3 color scheme.

Junbug

05-25-2025, 04:01 PM

So after a 5 month wait I got the call from the CO state patrol that my VIN was ready to be installed. He came by my house last Thursday afternoon and installed the CO VIN plate (pictured below). So this Monday I took all my paperwork to the County DMV and walked out the door with my title, registration, temporary tags and license plates ordered. It only took 45 mins or so... and a lot of me helping them with what needed to happen next. Boulder County isn't very practiced at this specific process. This weekend its been raining/misty/foggy so far so I took some time and created small trim pieces to keep rocks/sand from flying into the cockpit from the rear tires. I just riveted them in as I'm not sure if they need to come off when the body does for paint.
Next steps are to ship the car off to Jeff Kleiner, once he gives me the heads up he's ready. I'll be shipping it enclosed both directions, and my plan is to install carpet once the paint/body is done this fall.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214313&d=1748206157

I also ordered a shift boot. Great recommendation from Jessie. I also ordered a trans tunnel cover piece that matches the shift boot. I"m ordering some 1/8" closed cell foam and Weldwood Landau High Heat adhesive to secure it. I'll do the foam first, then once dry, I'll add the leather top.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214312&d=1748206157