Wiring double check

[sittonb]

Would like to run my wiring by everyone to ensure I didn't mess it up.

Blueprint 347 with sniper is my setup

So RF harness to post on starter
RF wire to alternator (red)
Red/Blk wires from Sniper directly to battery
Pink wire from sniper to ignition switch, sharing post with orange wire
yellow sniper wire to - on the coil
green/purple wire pair from sniper tied up
Other wire harness from snipe all tied up except blue wire which replaced green wire from RF harness at lower fan connection
Also ran a wire from the EFI/COIL orange wire (RF harness) to the + of coil

Only thing left is the sniper blue fuel pump wire, not exactly sure how I'll do that yet, have to check wiring diagrams.

I think I've got everything ok, only part not 100% sure of is the location of the pink wire


On another note, went to install the water temp sensor behind the thermostat in the manifold but the hole was way to big, assuming I need an bigger adapter, before I go kill myself trying to spec it out, anyone know what part I need?

Thanks!!!!!!

[Papa]

The pink wire on the Sniper is 12v switched power. I'm not sure I'd go directly to the ignition switch. Are you using the electric choke wire for anything? That would be a good option.

For the fuel pump, the blue Sniper wire can power the pump directly. I de-pinned the fuel pump power wire from the connector on the rear harness and made the connection there.

For any unused wires on the Sniper harness, I recommend de-pinning them and using the plugs that Holley recommends. They sell a de-pinning kit for this exact purpose. The reason you want to remove the unused wires it to avoid EMI from loose wires.

Not sure what you described regarding the fan control wire. This wire can simply be connected to either of the two green thermo control wires in the RF harness. Those wires go to the ground pin for the fan relay. The Sniper simply completes the ground and that's what completes the circuit to run the fan.

Holley EFI Metripack And Gt De-Pinning Tool-150/280 https://a.co/d/bdhlxef

The hole in the manifold for the heater hose is 1/2 NPT. The CTS could be either 1/8 NTP or 1/4 NPT. You can buy fittings at Home Depot. Don't forget thread sealant.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168565&d=1656109920

Dave

[sittonb]

The pink wire on the Sniper is 12v switched power. I'm not sure I'd go directly to the ignition switch. Are you using the electric choke wire for anything? That would be a good option.

For the fuel pump, the blue Sniper wire can power the pump directly. I de-pinned the fuel pump power wire from the connector on the rear harness and made the connection there.

For any unused wires on the Sniper harness, I recommend de-pinning them and using the plugs that Holley recommends. They sell a de-pinning kit for this exact purpose. The reason you want to remove the unused wires it to avoid EMI from loose wires.

Not sure what you described regarding the fan control wire. This wire can simply be connected to either of the two green thermo control wires in the RF harness. Those wires go to the ground pin for the fan relay. The Sniper simply completes the ground and that's what completes the circuit to run the fan.

Holley EFI Metripack And Gt De-Pinning Tool-150/280 https://a.co/d/bdhlxef

The hole in the manifold for the heater hose is 1/2 NPT. The CTS could be either 1/8 NTP or 1/4 NPT. You can buy fittings at Home Depot. Don't forget thread sealant.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=168565&d=1656109920

Dave

Thanks Papa, ordered the de-pinner, (didn't plan on leaving the wires all wrapped up but this is a much better solution then anything I would have come up with. I ran up to Home Depot and grabbed an adapter, looks like it'll work great, 1/2 x 1/9 btw. I'll move the pink wire to the choke wire, didn't think it was right.

The fuel pump..... Forgive me, you de-pinned the rear harness correct, so it doesn't run through the fuse box anymore? Can't wrap my head around that......

[Papa]

Thanks Papa, ordered the de-pinner, (didn't plan on leaving the wires all wrapped up but this is a much better solution then anything I would have come up with. I ran up to Home Depot and grabbed an adapter, looks like it'll work great, 1/2 x 1/9 btw. I'll move the pink wire to the choke wire, didn't think it was right.

The fuel pump..... Forgive me, you de-pinned the rear harness correct, so it doesn't run through the fuse box anymore? Can't wrap my head around that......

The fuel pump wire (blue wire) on the Sniper is fused and relay controlled in the Sniper harness:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=169487&d=1658027176

It's designed to allow you to run directly to the fuel pump.

If you take the wire out of the Weatherpack connector where the rear harness mates to the main dash harness, you can just tie the Sniper's blue wire to the tan RF fuel pump wire. I added a single-wire Weatherpack connector to keep it clean. If I ever want to revert the harness, I just move the tan wire back to the original connector.

Dave

[sittonb]

Ahh, ok got it, so the fuse box fuel pump fuse is "bypassed", ok makes sense and now that's the fuse I'd pull on pre-start process.
Thanks again

[sittonb]

OK, Papa, as a follow up, looking at my water pump and figuring out what to do with the outlet, how to block it off. Found in older posts, and your build thread that at one time you used a preformed hose (or part of it) and connected to what looks like the same location we were talking about in this thread. I think maybe you used a breeze connector that is now no longer made. So if your water temp sensor is now in that forward manifold location, what did you do with the water pump outlet? Or did you add a heater?

[Papa]

I simply capped the water pump port.

Dorman 02251 Coolant Bypass Caps - EPDM 3/4in, 2 Pack https://a.co/d/8quiB8g

I originally set up the same bypass hose you see in my build thread, but the stack linkage rubbed on the hose, which would eventually wear through.

[jab351w]

I simply capped the water pump port.

Dorman 02251 Coolant Bypass Caps - EPDM 3/4in, 2 Pack https://a.co/d/8quiB8g

I originally set up the same bypass hose you see in my build thread, but the stack linkage rubbed on the hose, which would eventually wear through.

Note that those Dorman hose caps aren't really intended for much heat/pressure and tend to crack pretty quickly when used on the cooling system. So if using one keep an eye on it.

Before replacing my water pump with one that has pipe plugs for the heater ports I used one of these silicone caps:

https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/products/hps-5-8-inch-16mm-high-temp-reinforced-silicone-coolant-cap-bypass-heater

Note that this one is 5/8" which will work for most SBF water pumps, but some may have a 3/4" port instead.

[Papa]

Note that those Dorman hose caps aren't really intended for much heat/pressure and tend to crack pretty quickly when used on the cooling system. So if using one keep an eye on it.

Before replacing my water pump with one that has pipe plugs for the heater ports I used one of these silicone caps:

https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/products/hps-5-8-inch-16mm-high-temp-reinforced-silicone-coolant-cap-bypass-heater

Note that this one is 5/8" which will work for most SBF water pumps, but some may have a 3/4" port instead.

Thank you! I'll be replacing the Dorman with one of these.

Dave

[sittonb]

The fuel pump wire (blue wire) on the Sniper is fused and relay controlled in the Sniper harness:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=169487&d=1658027176

It's designed to allow you to run directly to the fuel pump.

If you take the wire out of the Weatherpack connector where the rear harness mates to the main dash harness, you can just tie the Sniper's blue wire to the tan RF fuel pump wire. I added a single-wire Weatherpack connector to keep it clean. If I ever want to revert the harness, I just move the tan wire back to the original connector.

Dave


OK, so think I've got it all, but what about the green/purple combo? Initially thought it isn't used, can't find any references, but now second guessing myself

[Papa]

OK, so think I've got it all, but what about the green/purple combo? Initially thought it isn't used, can't find any references, but now second guessing myself

Those are for a magnetic pickup distributor. Look at you specific ignition setup to determine what you need.

[sittonb]

Those are for a magnetic pickup distributor. Look at you specific ignition setup to determine what you need.

Thanks, running a Blueprint 347 EFI, so don't need it. Just had a moment...

[JJK]

...

For the fuel pump, the blue Sniper wire can power the pump directly. I de-pinned the fuel pump power wire from the connector on the rear harness and made the connection there....
Dave

While I was an engineer once, I wasn't 'that' type of engineer and counting electrons was never my strongest suit. I understand to connect the blue Sniper fuel pump wire to the tan fuel pump wire in the RF rear harness (eventually going to the red capped fuel pump connector). In doing this, would it best practice to also cut and seal off the orange power wire for the fuel pump relay in the RF fuse block? Seems like I would not want that relay activated for no reason. Then, can I use that relay for something else if needed by also cutting the tan output wire at the relay?
JJ

[Papa]

I didn't do anything with the fuel pump circuit, but you could use it as-is for another purpose that needs relay provided power with the key on. You could actually use it to power your coil, for example.

[JJK]

Thank you, one more question (at least for now), by tapping the blue Sniper fuel pump wire into the tan fuel pump wire in the rear harness, we are letting the EFI control the fuel pump. But, how should the inertia switch then be rerouted? If I run it in series between the blue Sniper wire and the tan RF harness wire, I am concerned about the current running through the switch, which is currently only shorting out the ground for the RF fuel pump relay. Not sure of its current rating, but seems like it may be too much there.