Hydraulic Clutch Braided Line - Specs?

[32J]

Hi - Does anyone have a recommended part number and supplier for a braided hydraulic clutch line? The Wilwood master cylinder already has the female brass fitting for a 3/8-24 male inverted flare (such as used on the 3/16" brake lines). And I 'think' the Tilton throwout bearing has an AN-03 female connection. I think I need a total length of 36" to route from the pedal box, across the 2" tube on the dash, and out the firewall and down to the bell housing. Rather than try and piece a bunch of fittings together, I was hoping there's already something off the shelf.

Thanks!

32J

[edwardb]

The Tilton 60-6104 I have in my Coupe is -4 AN fittings. Suspect yours is the same. Although check your Tilton instructions and specs. The size is listed there. This length may not work for you. But from my build notes, FWIW these are the parts I used on my Coupe. I suspect a longer version is available:

(1) Fragola Performance Systems 412-1-2-24-BL Hose, PTFE Lined, Braided Stainless Steel, Black Covered, 24" Length, -4 AN Fittings, Female Threads
(1) Fragola Performance Systems Union 581504, straight, -4 AN Male to -4 AN Male, Steel, Zinc Plated (to connect 24" Fragola hose to the Tilton hydraulic line)
(1) Wilwood Brake Line Adapter 220-9075, Straight, Steel, Zinc Finish, 1/8-27 in. NPT Male Threads, -4 AN Male Threads (to connect 24" to clutch MC)

[JJK]

Anyone have any further advice on hydraulic clutch plumbing from Wilwood pedal box to Tilton ITOB, like the TKX now supplied with BPE engines.

[mladen]

I just went through it today. Same setup. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45305-Clutch-line-fittings

And this is the fitting I used to go from npt to an on the wilwood https://a.co/d/cqV9Idi

The braided line I linked to in the other thread is perfect length for routing it out the side of the ds footbox. Getting it bled is a bit of a pain though. They explain it here https://youtu.be/wgc7ApCMTGA Keep in mind you literally have to submerge that whole fitting assembly into the fluid. I made a giant mess in the garage

[JohnK]

Getting it bled is a bit of a pain though. They explain it here https://youtu.be/wgc7ApCMTGA Keep in mind you literally have to submerge that whole fitting assembly into the fluid. I made a giant mess in the garage

A little brake fluid on the threads of that bleeder fitting will "seal" the threads (temporarily, at least) and you can then just put a rubber tube on the end of the fitting and into a container of brake fluid to bleed the clutch. No need to submerge the whole fitting. For next-level easy, use a pressure bleeder cap on the reservoir and you can then bleed it yourself without needing a second person to pump the pedal.

[mladen]

Wish I knew that beforehand. Though I did manage on my own from the side of the car.

[MB750]

I use this place for all my recent brake and clutch line and fitting shenanigans (and for what FFR stiffed me on...)

https://www.kartek.com/parts-categories/fittings-hoses.html

Fast shipping too. Not much -4AN though. I don't see why the TOB is using -4an.

[JJK]

I just went through it today. Same setup. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?45305-Clutch-line-fittings

And this is the fitting I used to go from npt to an on the wilwood https://a.co/d/cqV9Idi

The braided line I linked to in the other thread is perfect length for routing it out the side of the ds footbox. Getting it bled is a bit of a pain though. They explain it here https://youtu.be/wgc7ApCMTGA Keep in mind you literally have to submerge that whole fitting assembly into the fluid. I made a giant mess in the garage

Perfect, thank you
JJ