Repairing a leaking TKO mid shift plate

[rsbrillhart]

Just finished my build and like many others with a TKO, I noticed a leak on the floor after driving. I went with the mid shift conversion from the factory. I finally figured out my leak is coming from the plate under the shifter. I was hoping I could just pull the shifter plate up and reseal it. My problem is the 4 hex nuts are not budging at all. I've put almost 100 ft-lbs torque on it and afraid any more and I'll strip the nut. I'm assuming they used some type of Loctite. I've read that applying heat (solder iron) can break down the bond, typically near 500F. I know the nuts are not in direct contact with the fluid, but knowing that transmission fluid can have a flash point as low as 300F, I'm not comfortable with that.

Anyone else run into this issue? As always, I appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.

[Railroad]

If possible check the fluid level on the trans, verifying you are using the correct fill plug.
This could be the reason for the leak. If everything checks out, I would use the soldering iron on the nut and get it hot.
Be sure to use a 6 sided socket. An impact might be better at loosening the nuts than continuous tq like a pull handle.
I doubt you will reach any temps creating a haz with flash points with an electric soldering iron.
good luck,

[rsbrillhart]

Thanks RR, appreciate the advice. I was able to get it removed, and believe I figured out the cause of the leak. When Tremec did the mid shift conversion, they tapped holes to attach the shifter plate to the base plate as they should. However, it appears the bolts they used were too long and went through the shifter plate and dug into the housing (see photos). This almost certainly prevented the two pieces from seating properly, but it also has now created inclusions with raised lips where each of the bolts dug into the housing. I can file them down and reseal, but I'm not certain that the inclusions are going to continue to cause fluid seepage. I plan to call Tremec tomorrow but thought I'd share this issue with the forum for mid-shift conversions.

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[Railroad]

Glad you got everything sorted out. Should not have a sealing issue. Plenty of meat left on the lip.
Tremec should ship or pick up the tab for bolts and sealer.
good luck

[coyobra]

Thanks RR, appreciate the advice. I was able to get it removed, and believe I figured out the cause of the leak. When Tremec did the mid shift conversion, they tapped holes to attach the shifter plate to the base plate as they should. However, it appears the bolts they used were too long and went through the shifter plate and dug into the housing (see photos). This almost certainly prevented the two pieces from seating properly, but it also has now created inclusions with raised lips where each of the bolts dug into the housing. I can file them down and reseal, but I'm not certain that the inclusions are going to continue to cause fluid seepage. I plan to call Tremec tomorrow but thought I'd share this issue with the forum for mid-shift conversions.

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I had the exact same issue with the mid shift leak on my TKO 600. Tremec did not do the mid shift conversion. I was sent the mid shift kit and did it myself. I ended up bringing the car to a shop experienced in Factory Five to see if they could determine the cause of the leak. They found what you referenced above - the supplied bolts were too long. Luckily, I built in a removable transmission tunnel cover for easy access to the top of the tranny. I removed the cover before taking it to the shop, otherwise they would have had to drop the transmission to access bolts. The shop straightened out the "bent" plate and used the correct length bolts then sealed it up. No issues for about 3000 miles.

[rsbrillhart]

Yep, turns out Blueprint did the mid shift conversion on mine, not Tremec. BP seemed surprised by my thoughts that the bolts were too long, as they say they've been using those 1" bolts for many years. But the the evidence is pretty clear. I didn't consider that the plate may be "bent" now, ugh. I'm going to file down the inclusion lips, clean it up, seal it with some Permatex anaerobic, close it with 3/4" bolts, and keep my fingers crossed.

[Avalanche325]

What did they use to put the bolts in? A NASCAR impact wrench?

I was curious, so I looked the kit up. The instructions say:

Clean mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply RTV
sealant to mating surface of the shift tower
assembly and rear extension. Install new shift
tower assembly. Torque the four (4) new bolts
included in kit to 18-22 ft-lb. Install shift boot

Ironically, the picture shows an impact wrench. Its hard to imagine 22ft-lbs causing what you picture shows. I'm sure you will be fine. But that kind of stuff annoys me. A professional can't tell when a bolt bottoms out?