Windshield Install Question

[StewPididiot]

We recently installed the body on our MKIV. The attached photo shows the passenger side windshield cutout and an obstruction below it caused by the dash extension which sits directly underneath. It's just sheet metal with some weather stripping on top of it, so it's flexible. Should we bend the sheet metal to accommodate the windshield, or is this a sign that the body needs to be moved forward to align things properly?

168766

[JeffP]

Very common to have to clearance this piece - i cut a notch in mine to accomdate the windshield. You'll likely have to open that body cut out as well, the windshield brackets tend to angle in a little bit so the slot ends up more like a \ rather than |

[egchewy79]

the firewall has a notch in it at that location that I did not recognize when I first put on the bulb seal. you'll need to cut the bulb seal at that notch and while you're at it, extend the notch inferiorly about 3/4" to avoid the post rubbing on it.

[Alan_C]

Don't forget to shim the windshield posts near where they bolt to the frame. Any gap left between post and the frame will result in stress on the windshield and the dreaded overnight window crack. Properly shimmed, the windows do not crack other than from road hazards.

[StewPididiot]

thanks guys!

[rich grsc]

Not sure how you can install that piece without seeing it's slotted for the windshield?

[StewPididiot]

Not sure how you can install that piece without seeing it's slotted for the windshield?

Wow. Thanks Rich. That was super helpful. LOL

[rich grsc]

welcome

[Tbev]

Alan_C mentioned shimming the posts. I believe with the newer MKIV's you do not need to use shims. I recently installed mine and there was no gap to shim.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Alan_C mentioned shimming the posts. I believe with the newer MKIV's you do not need to use shims. I recently installed mine and there was no gap to shim.

Some do, some don’t. That’s always been the case. Verify and don’t assume:

Jeff

[StewPididiot]

Some do, some don’t. That’s always been the case. Verify and don’t assume:

Jeff

so...washers?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Washers will work but I use body shims—-the open end makes them easier to get into place.

Jeff

[JeffP]

so...washers?

I used washers. taped them to the windshield bracket and cut out holes in the tape. works great for holding them in place until you can get the bolt through. I think I only had to use 1 on each side.

[emac]

Just in case you haven't read this before, be careful with the visor bolts cracking the windshield. I think I shortened them a little and used shims on the mounts like others have suggested, to make certain the windshield was not stressed. Ten years later and windshield is still good. Knock on wood!!

Heres an old thread that may be worth reading:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33025-MK4-Windshield-Installation-Tips-Myths-and-Realities

[StewPididiot]

Just in case you haven't read this before, be careful with the visor bolts cracking the windshield. I think I shortened them a little and used shims on the mounts like others have suggested, to make certain the windshield was not stressed. Ten years later and windshield is still good. Knock on wood!!

Heres an old thread that may be worth reading:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?33025-MK4-Windshield-Installation-Tips-Myths-and-Realities

This is really helpful. Thanks very much!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Just in case you haven't read this before, be careful with the visor bolts cracking the windshield...

As emac said some have found that the screws for the little tabs will touch (and crack) the glass if they are the least bit too long. Here's what I do now when I have customers who want visors---Use square 6-32 nuts in the top channel which can be inserted through the wide gap in the center then use 3/8" long flat head phillips screws to attach the tabs as shown here:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75759&d=1508694046


Put your visors on like this and use a piece of black vacuum hose or screen spline to fill the channel and hide the hardware.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75760&d=1508694047

Easy peasy and no risk of a tap or the visor screws contacting the glass.

Cheers,
Jeff

[StewPididiot]

As emac said some have found that the screws for the little tabs will touch (and crack) the glass if they are the least bit too long. Here's what I do now when I have customers who want visors---Use square 6-32 nuts in the top channel which can be inserted through the wide gap in the center then use 3/8" long flat head phillips screws to attach the tabs as shown here:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75759&d=1508694046


Put your visors on like this and use a piece of black vacuum hose or screen spline to fill the channel and hide the hardware.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=75760&d=1508694047

Easy peasy and no risk of a tap or the visor screws contacting the glass.

Cheers,
Jeff

Brilliant. We will definitely do it this way. Thanks so much for sharing this!

[egchewy79]

168808

+1. Made a rear view mirror bracket that sits in that channel as well.

[nuhale]

I used body shims during build and gel coat driving. For my particular situation my DS was flush and 1/8" on PS. Teardown for paint I installed a 1/8" permanent aluminum spacer bar on the PS so I wouldn't have to deal with washers or shims in a tight space if I had to remove windshield. I recently had to and was happy I did it.

[richtersand]

I used body shims during build and gel coat driving. For my particular situation my DS was flush and 1/8" on PS. Teardown for paint I installed a 1/8" permanent aluminum spacer bar on the PS so I wouldn't have to deal with washers or shims in a tight space if I had to remove windshield. I recently had to and was happy I did it.

Pro tip! How did you attach the spacer?

[nuhale]

Wish I took a picture of it. The 1/8 permanent shim was the width of the frame mount and cut 2 holes to line up with frame for mounting bolts. I drilled and countersunk at the 4 corners and fastened to frame. I put a nice radius to allow for the windshield upright to slide easy. This with tapping the brass windshield uprights makes getting the shield in/out east and is a 1 person job.

[OSU Cowboy]

I utilized the "Kleiner Method" on visor attachment - works very well.

Thanks Jeff!

[JohnK]

FWIW, the windshield side posts are made of brass and are relatively easy to straighten out so that no shims are needed. I installed my windshield with quick-release brackets, and straightened out the posts so that they slide in and out easily with no tension on them. Details here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Picking-up-the-chassis)&p=487896&viewfull=1#post487896), here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Picking-up-the-chassis)&p=487898&viewfull=1#post487898) and here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31167-Greek-Guys-Garage-Roadster-Build-9509-(Picking-up-the-chassis)&p=488263&viewfull=1#post488263). Most of that is not applicable if installing the windshield the "normal" way, but you can see how I straightened out the side posts.

[Alan_C]

I used a standard feeler gauge to get a estimate on the gap widths. I then went to McMaster Carr and bought the slotted open end style shims mentioned by Jeff K. with enough variety that I could dial in the thickness. I used gasket maker type silicone to glue the individual shims together for an easier install. Mark them as to LH and RH for reference should you have to remove the windshield later down the road.
I learned the hard way and had two windshields crack in 3 years of driving. The cracked windshield club has an entry fee. You can always consider a Lexan replacement, but there is another expense there too.

https://www.mcmaster.com/shims/slotted-shims-7/