Rivets vs screws - What, where, how?

[Gizmosrcool]

Hi Everyone.

I have been using the waiting game time to reach out to folks such as Russ Thompson, Breeze, Mike Forte, and others, to work on ordering and getting in the queue for a variety of addons and parts. They have been great getting back to me and a few called. Which is cool because few people call now a days (guilty). I am a bit confused on rivets vs the type of screws and like to get a variety of these sourced.


For anything that is hidden, not seen, and not likely to be removed, I will use rivets.
For the engine compartment, call me nuts, but I think I am going to use a lot of button head screws for a bit of it. So it looks polished and slick. Unless I can find uber cool rivets.
For anything that may need to be removeable, or I want it to look polished, I will use button head screws.


I am looking for recommendations on stainless steel button head screws, recommended sizes, and where to purchase. Also how do I install? Do I drill a certain size? Then tap? This will help me obtain the screws, taps, and plenty of drill bits.

I think most rivets are 1/8? Correct? I drill 1/8? Do I use stainless steel rivets? Or regular cheapola ones? There is a larger one as well. What/when/where do I use that? again help me obtain the right rivets and drill bits.

Lots of questions and appreciate advice and recommendations. Thx, Tom

[mmklaxer]

for the rivets, get some #10 and #30 bits for the 1/8 and 3/16 rivets. McMaster has painted rivets that I plan on matching as best possible for my powder coated engine bay panels.

[txboiler]

McMaster carr and ace hardware have a good selection of pan head and button head stainless hardware. I would order stock for McMaster in 1/4-20 and 10-24 diameters in several lengths 3/8”, 1/2” and 5/8”. Also order some rivnuts and taps in similar size.

Ace hardware has a great selection of hardware that you can get in single quantities.

Stainless is prone to gaul in dissimilar metals so you may want to use a dab of anti seize.

[Gizmosrcool]

Thx MMKLAXER. I'll be on the look out for some #10/#30 bits. I plan on doing the same and try to color cordinate the rivets with the powder coated panels. Thank You. Tom

[Gizmosrcool]

Thx TXBOILER. Do you use regular 18-8 stainless? or the better 316 SS? The 316 is about 2X the 18-18. I do not know if 316 is worth it. Although the car will be in FL and there is alot of humidity here. I'll try and get the better stuff.

Thank You. Tom

[Gizmosrcool]

Anyone know how thick the panels are? I am guessing the thinner nutserts will do the trick but want to verify.

[Namrups]

The panels are .040" aluminum

[Gizmosrcool]

The panels are .040" aluminum

That is helpful. Thx Namrups.

[Gizmosrcool]

I can't believe I have so many questions on rivet nuts. of the 10-32 vs 1/4-20, which size is used the most? I am trying to figure out how many to order of each.

[Papa]

This topic comes up quite a bit. When I built my car, I was one that wanted to ensure easy removal of certain panels (splash guards, for example). So, I went through the effort of installing nut-certs and fighting with alignment and galling of threads before coming to the realization that in most cases, rivets are the easiest method to both assemble AND remove panels like splash guards. It takes about a second to drill out a rivet. There are appropriate places for nut-certs, like the trim ring on the shifter, dash screws, access covers for battery, etc. My point is, if rivets can be easily drilled, and it's for a panel that isn't removed and replaced regularly or where a screw is "required", use rivets.

[mkassab]

This is a great place for any/all fasteners... https://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwh-CVBhB8EiwAjFEPGQWz_KdvSw20ZUqtOSxJk108mxLW9nvvZ0p3 KPd6UnGSpqtBuCYmBBoCWBoQAvD_BwE

[Gizmosrcool]

This topic comes up quite a bit. When I built my car, I was one that wanted to ensure easy removal of certain panels (splash guards, for example). So, I went through the effort of installing nut-certs and fighting with alignment and galling of threads before coming to the realization that in most cases, rivets are the easiest method to both assemble AND remove panels like splash guards. It takes about a second to drill out a rivet. There are appropriate places for nut-certs, like the trim ring on the shifter, dash screws, access covers for battery, etc. My point is, if rivets can be easily drilled, and it's for a panel that isn't removed and replaced regularly or where a screw is "required", use rivets.

Papa. I plan on using rivets for as much as I can. If the rivets that come with the build are the regular cheapola ones, i'll likely upgrade to stainless. Use them as much where I can where they are hidden. For exposed, I am going to use a colored one to accent or blend with the panel color. Some type of silver. For bling in some spots i'll use button head screws. Kinda a pain like you said with the nutserts, a lot of extra work, but if I have time, then I think the extra effort will help with the quality. The nutserts I will use for panels I fabricate or stuff that needs regular removing.

I read your build thread again yesterday and great job. Yours is one of the book marked ones I have for reference and it is very helpful. Thx for all the time you put into into the build thread. It is great for newbies.

Thx, Tom