Oil pan replacement

[cnutting]

Getting ready to replace the oil pan with a lower profile unit. Looking to address some nagging drips while I'm there. Last time I did this was in high school on my old 66 Mustang with a 200 straight six. I like to think that I've learned a thing or two on proper planning since then, so I've been putting together my task and materials list ahead of time.

Looking to gather some tips/tricks and traps to avoid as part of this (i.e. leak check the pan beforehand, check rail flatness and raised edges on mounting holes, etc.). Engine is a 1965 289 block, new pan is from Aviaid. If you have any suggestions, please chime in.

Thanks!
Chris

[Bob Cowan]

On the front cover and on the rear block, there is a square hole on each side. The gasket has square tabs in those areas, to fit in the square holes. They are there to help retain the gasket while you're tightening them down.
- Make sure those holes are very clean - no oil or dirt; and especially no silicone. I use a small screwdriver to clean them out.
- Trime the tabs in the gaskets just a smidgen. A little shorter, and the sides at about 60*.
- Place a small blob of silicone in the holes. You don't need much.

I have had the best luck with a Fel-Pro one piece gasket with the steel inserts. You don't need to apply silicone to the whole gasket. I apply some to the block surface to hold the gasket in place while I get the pan up there.

If you can, use the plastic "studs" that come with the gasket. Makes your life a lot easier. If you can't, make some guide studs out of 1/4" x1" bolts.

[Otee453]

Oil Pickup... is it in the right place for the type of pan you chose? (i.e., front vs rear of pan)

Proper spacing from bottom of the pan once mounted. I don't use clay, I use an adjustable square measuring from the block to the bottom of the pickup, then measure from the pan flange (don't forget about the thickness of the gasket) to the bottom of the pan where the pickup will reside. I shoot for ~.375" spacing.

Ive found that the fel-pro one piece gaskets don't always work well with some aftermarket/specialty pans. I wish they did because they are usually easier. Because of that, I still use the old fashioned 4 piece from fel-pro. I use Gaskinich gasket glue to hold the fiber strips on the block and then black rtv in the journal corners. Never had a leak.

[jab351w]

I have the same combo (60s 289 block w/ Aviaid front sump pan) and used the FelPro one-piece gasket which fits fine with no leaks. Bob's instructions above are spot on for a leak-free install.

Note that there are two versions of the FelPro one-piece gasket for the 289/302 blocks: OS34508R and OS13260T. The "R" version has a cutout for the dipstick in the block, while the "T" version doesn't. They're otherwise the same. With an early block without the dipstick you can use either one, as the cutout doesn't interfere with sealing.

[cnutting]

Thanks for all the tips so far. Any tips on breaking the pan free from the block? Looks like black RTV... Or is this a multi-hour slog with a putty knife?

[CraigS]

Since you are replacing the pan I'd just do the hammer and putty knife deal. There is one other possible problem I have run into. Some of the block plates bulge forward just under the pan making it hard to remove the pan since it doesn't want to clear the bulge. If you run into this loosen the trans to block bolts, and the rear trans mount bolts and pry the trans back from the block. It only needs to move maybe 3/16 inch then the pan will come out.

[johnnybgoode]

Since you are replacing the pan I'd just do the hammer and putty knife deal. There is one other possible problem I have run into. Some of the block plates bulge forward just under the pan making it hard to remove the pan since it doesn't want to clear the bulge. If you run into this loosen the trans to block bolts, and the rear trans mount bolts and pry the trans back from the block. It only needs to move maybe 3/16 inch then the pan will come out.

I've done as Craig suggests and it works great. Much easier to get the pan back on without disturbing the gasket. Great Trick! Scott

[cnutting]

Thanks for all the tips!

I broke it down into a couple 1-2 hour sessions and the pan is off. Once I got a good spot open with the knife, I tapped in a couple plastic toilet shims. Made just enough space to attack the next section with the putty knife from a couple angles. Got things mostly clean, gotta get the square holes next weekend, then put the studs in and start reassembly. The Aviaid pan came with a new pickup, but I'll double check clearance. Trust but verify...

[CraigS]

Your plastic toilet shims is a brilliant idea. Dang, I will remember this for sure.