Narly1's Speedstar build [Archive]

narly1

07-02-2022, 08:53 AM

Domino Effect

So I've been off on holidays this past week and took it upon myself to work on cleaning/organizing/decluttering my 2-car garage. In the process I've come to the conclusion that I need a garden shed so all of the GARDENING stuff can gracefully exit the garage which is supposed to be for CAR stuff LOL.

At least 1/3 of 1 bay is occupied by these items. An additional third is stuff that needs to go one way or another.

So all in all I'll easily get 2/3 of a bay back by doing this.

I will say that I re-found a couple of things that will come in handy for the build:

4 wheels and tires that I can use as part of a "body buck on stilts". This will allow me to roll the body in and out of the garage while I work on the the chassis.

and

A bunch of pool noodles to use as frame protection.

narly1

07-08-2022, 02:59 PM

It's never too early to order that vanity plate. We wouldn't want somebody else to scoop it on us would we now?

169199

33fromSD

07-08-2022, 03:04 PM

It's never too early to order that vanity plate. We wouldn't want somebody else to scoop it on us would we now?

169199

Nice....

Ontario must have different rules. In SoDak I can't order a vanity plate for an unregistered car. I could order it for an existing car and then transfer the plate to the other car once it's registered.

Jim

narly1

02-08-2023, 08:58 PM

It's been a long time since I last updated this thread and for good reason. I've been patiently saving up my $$$ to fund this dream project. A few weeks ago I ordered the completion parts from Valins (albeit minus the brakes for now as the USD/CAD exchange rate is so poor) and in the past few days I paid for my kit in full. You need a paid in full invoice from FFR so you can apply for and have the necessary Transport Canada importation documentation when bringing the kit into Canada. Apparently they are running about 2 months to process these requests.

Since putting down my deposit last June the past 8 months have seemed like an eternity.

To say that I'm excited is an understatement!

The plan is to make the trip down to pick up late March/early April, so only another 1-1/2 - 2 months left to wait!

Earl

FF33rod

02-09-2023, 10:55 AM

That's great Earl!!! Looking forward to seeing this build start!

Steve

narly1

02-09-2023, 12:07 PM

That's great Earl!!! Looking forward to seeing this build start!

Steve

LOL I was more expecting you to say "It's about time!" LOL

Thanks for being patient with me.....I've got lot's of ideas on my mind and hopefully enough tricks up my sleeves to make them reality.

Earl

narly1

03-03-2023, 09:13 PM

Transport Canada has gotten back to me in record time by all accounts. Their letter of importation authorization came today after submitting my application only 6 working days ago!

Here's hoping that March begins the trend of "going out like a lamb" sooner than later....it's not looking like it tonight here in southern Ontario Canada...we're supposed to get 15-25 cm of snow overnight!

Earl

FF33rod

03-04-2023, 02:08 PM

We had a snow blitz a week ago as well, hope it's the last of it!

That IS darn fast for Transport Canada. Mine was pretty quick back in 2018 but if I remember correctly it was about 2 weeks....

So, you've been farting around with some stuff related to your build over the last couple of years, better get that info into this thread ASAP!!! ;)

narly1

03-04-2023, 10:46 PM

OK, so at Steve's request here are links to what I've done so far and the parts I've amassed for my build:

302 engine, 1st time build project for me (it runs!): https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34272-Is-a-basically-stock-302-too-little-motor-Subsequent-build-ITS-ALIVE-SEE-VIDEO

I built a stand to run the engine on: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?39201-DIY-Engine-Run-up-Stand

AOD transmission: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42025-Some-AOD-upgrades-to-keep-myself-busy

Going with IRS option, hub carriers and new bearings: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38256-Mustang-rear-IRS-hub-bearing-assembly-Which-brand-to-use

Bought a Lentech 2200-2400 stall torque converter

Got a 3.55 limited slip diff with only 100 km on it.

Kootenai rear trunk reinforcement/lift kit: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?5560-Kootenai-Valley-Customs-Build-Page&highlight=kootenai

The only "special" tools that I've bought so far were a shop press (already used it to push out the wheel bearing studs) and bag of 50 clecos + pliers.

Earl

progmgr1

03-04-2023, 11:14 PM

narly1

03-04-2023, 11:36 PM

FWIW: You might want to talk to the torque converter manufacturer about this...

Keith HR #894

That's exactly what I did Keith. I dealt with Chris at Lentech and ordered a torque converter for my specific 302 build and AOD transmission combination.

Based on the torque/hp dyno results from an almost identical build and predicted vehicle weight of 2200-2400 lbs he suggested their 7902-CONV-11SS which is 11.25", 2200-2400 stall speed, coupled spline unit.

$800 CAD later I hope Lentech knows what they're doing.

Earl

Brave Salmon

03-05-2023, 01:55 AM

FWIW: Other auto-trans using builders (including Alan_C and Svtfreak) have strongly recommended using a torque converter with 3400 - 3600 - 3800 stall speed. The Hot Rod is so light that a lower stall is less driver friendly for street use. You might want to talk to the torque converter manufacturer about this.

Keith HR #894

Hey Keith, I followed that same suggestion for a 3500 stall converter on my 347/AOD build. I was extremely disappointed with the darn thing. It was like an old time burned up clutch trying to leave the line. I had a local guy build me one set at 2400rpm and could not have been happier. I believe that the 36-3800 range is probably a good range for a racing/drag strip setup but it is lousy for the street. my opinion, of course, is subject to interpretation based on how the car is used.

progmgr1

03-05-2023, 02:51 AM

OK, I'll anxiously wait for you to get it on the street and see how it works. I'm tearing down my car to have the chassis powder coated soon, so I have some time until I have to order my torque converter.

Keith HR #894

FF33rod

03-05-2023, 05:25 PM

Tools....
Hey Earl, as far as tools go....
- buy a "gaggle" of 1/8" drill bits, tons of drilling to be done. You have a cordless drill?
- I have no idea what FFR is shipping for a rivet gun these days but I didn't like the one that came in my kit. I bought a Stanley with swivel head. I also bought an air powered one but wouldn't say it was really needed. Drilling the holes are more of a pain in the butt than setting the rivets themselves.
- Also bought a much better nutsert tool, https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01JBNNJ3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheers
Steve

narly1

03-05-2023, 09:02 PM

Tools....

For sure if there's one thing I hate more than dull drill bits, it's cheap *** ones that break or go dull if you even look at them wrong LOL. I need to make a trip down to Aircraft Spruce to get some glass microspheres for my DIY Lizard Skin paint so will grab a dozen or so #30 cobalt bits while I'm there.

Earl

Dgc333

03-06-2023, 08:29 AM

For sure if there's one thing I hate more than dull drill bits, it's cheap *** ones that break or go dull if you even look at them wrong LOL. I need to make a trip down to Aircraft Spruce to get some glass microspheres for my DIY Lizard Skin paint so will grab a dozen or so #30 cobalt bits while I'm there.

Earl
Earl, why #30 drills verse 1/8?

Also, regarding tools.

I used a battery powered drill for about 90% of the holes I drilled. The other 10% the drill wouldn't fit. I wound up getting a very compact 90 degree pneumatic angle drill from HF for those holes and still needed to cut down the drill bit to get into a few tight places.

Most of my riveting was done with a two handle tool but you will still need to use the one hand tool like the one supplied in the kit for the tight places.

Namrups

03-06-2023, 09:08 AM

#30 bits are a hair larger than the 1/8" bits. Makes it easier to insert the pop rivet. Use a #10 for the 3/16" rivets.

Dgc333

03-06-2023, 11:55 AM

#30 bits are a hair larger than the 1/8" bits. Makes it easier to insert the pop rivet. Use a #10 for the 3/16" rivets.

I realize that the #30 is .0035" larger, I thought there may have been some technical reason to use the larger drill. I had no issues installing my rivets with 1/8 or 3/16 drill bits.

narly1

03-06-2023, 12:05 PM

I realize that the #30 is .0035" larger, I thought there may have been some technical reason to use the larger drill. I had no issues installing my rivets with 1/8 or 3/16 drill bits.

Ya, you're probably right. Given that the rivet heads are aluminum going into steel they probably just yield to fit LOL. And they're a lot easier to come by at retail.

Once again I'm overthinking things LOL.

Earl

TxMike64

03-06-2023, 02:56 PM

You can get 6-packs of #11 and #30 drill bits fairly easily and fairly inexpensively, from places like Grainger, or that jungle website, or even aircraft spruce or aircraft tool supply.

narly1

03-30-2023, 04:22 AM

Well the day has (almost) finally come. Today we set out on our trip to Wareham. I'm picking my kit up at 9 am tomorrow morning then high-tailing it home.

Wish us a safe and uneventful journey!

Earl

Nigel Allen

03-30-2023, 06:15 AM

Happy travels bringing the baby home.

Cheers, Nige

Mastertech5

03-30-2023, 09:33 AM

Ask for a tour while you're there if they can. I got one when I picked up my kit. It was the day before last June's Open House. Seeing the cars in the showroom is awesome! May you have a great and uneventful trip except while your there of coarse!

narly1

04-01-2023, 07:28 AM

OK so back home after what was probably the longest day of driving in my entire life.

Friday started off with a 2 hr drive from our hotel to FFR. Then after loading up and leaving Wareham at about 10:45 it took us until just about midnight to get home. That included the usual fuel/bio break stops as well as pulling in off of the interstate for a proper sit down dinner in Rochester. The last 1/2 hr of the drive was slow due to very foggy conditions.

Some random thoughts:

RickyBobbie and the shipping dock crew were helpful beyond belief. They have seen everything in terms of loading for these kits and their experience is INVALUABLE! To that end my load made the long journey home without any shifting at all. The 6'x16' landscaper trailer and extended cab F150 was the perfect size for the load. We ended up standing the hood up vertically and strapping it securely to the beavertail ramp which worked out great. Hood sides got strapped crossways to the inside of front wall with just a bit of overhang.

The kindness and hospitality shown by everybody at FFR is another thing that sets this company apart.

Fellow FFR Speedstar builder DGC33 made the effort to come out and meet me at the plant which was very special. Thank you for that Dave!

I finally got to sit in the completed Speedstar and can confirm that this 6'3", 36" inseam builder fits in it.

Clearing Canada Customs was a breeze. Understanding the importation process and being able to confidently explain it to the customers officer really helps. So the moral of the story is have your documentation together and know what you're doing when you get there.

Having a great navigator and travelling companion along for the trip really helped. Thank you to my wife Monique for your support and help with this part of my journey.

Finally I slept more soundly last night than I have in a long time, so exhausted!

Next step unpacking and inventory!

Earl

Namrups

04-01-2023, 07:46 AM

You thought you were excited during the pick-up phase of your journey ..... It gets better!!

Mastertech5

04-01-2023, 09:28 AM

Congratulations on a successful journey! So far so good. Inventory is a blast, haha! Let us know how the new system FFR uses works out. How long is your POL list? Hopefully shorter than the 1 1/2 pages of mine and that was just for the Stage 1 Hot Rod kit. 3 weeks till Stage 2. It's only a 50 mile trip for me.

narly1

04-02-2023, 10:37 AM

OK so everything has been inventoried and short of a few wrong/missing items everything that I was supposed to be bringing home is here.

The POL list is also very short, just missing a few of the items currently known to be on backorder: steering column, steering shaft flange bearing 15.08" DD steering shaft, driveshaft/diff adapter, cockpit rear trim panel, floor foam core inserts, hood/trunk prop rods, door handle fastener pack, some push on trim, and the E-brake cable clevis.

Happily all of my IRS mounting hardware was there.

So here we go!

Earl

narly1

04-03-2023, 06:37 AM

Digging further than the documentation it seems I am missing more items beyond what the POL list + missing parts I found during inventory + Canadian completion kit items would account for.

E.g. I thought I would likely find the firewall sheet metal taped to the body/frame floor as they are bigger pieces but they were not there. Similarly the fuel tank stored in the trunk....also not there.

What I did find were 2 L-shaped fibreglass pieces. I have no idea what they're for, I've never seen them in any previous build posts/pictures. So guessing they are Speedstar specific.

And then it dawned on me that I don't have a build manual to refer to other than an e-copy of the generic 33HR one that I purchased a couple of years back!

Earl

Mastertech5

04-03-2023, 10:51 PM

When I got mine the firewall was in its own box along with a tube with all the fuel and brake lines. I had to wait for a couple months for the footbox pieces.

narly1

04-04-2023, 04:39 PM

OK so I think we have it figured out that the Canadian completion kit includes a lot more items than what is shown on the list at https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/hot-rod-parts-required-canada.pdf

So standing down regarding my POL/MIK lists until the completion kit shows up.

I can still do a few things but not much, LOL.

Earl

narly1

04-04-2023, 08:54 PM

Proof that you can always find something to do with the parts that you've already received while you wait for your POL items. I'm making it my goal to try and make some progress, however little, every day.

Tonight I ground down the heads on the rear wheel studs to clear the seals on the IRS hub bearings and pressed them into place.

Earl

narly1

04-06-2023, 09:05 PM

Between yesterday and this evening I managed to cut the IRS knuckles down and install a new set of SKF bearing hubs into them. I didn't have a sawzall so I used my angle grinder....messy but got the job done. Used my belt sander to dress the cut surface, happy with the results. The 98 ft-lbs torque required for the bearing hub bolts was just about all I could muster with my breaker bar. Between that and the red Loctite they're not going anywhere. I went with new bearing hubs as I had no history on the ones that came with the knuckles. Replacing them is cheap insurance IMO.

182644

narly1

04-12-2023, 03:44 PM

I just received word that the Canadian completion kit for my order will be here early next week.

What's even more amazing is that the POL associated with it is only 1 item!

Earl

narly1

04-17-2023, 09:58 PM

So POL and MIK bits have been trickling in over the past few days. U-shaped pad that goes on top of the waterfall, steering shaft bearing (still missing one), a few lock nuts and a biggie today, steering column, name plate and CoE documents.

So all of that has been inventoried and sorted as appropriate into the right box #'s.

Tomorrow is a big day, a skid with 350 lbs worth of Canadian completion kit items are being delivered!

Once I get that all inventoried it will be interesting to see what all is still missing.

Earl

Mastertech5

04-18-2023, 11:23 AM

Did you get the power steering? You only need one steering shaft bearing for PS. The motor mounts to where the other bearing would go.

narly1

04-18-2023, 12:43 PM

Did you get the power steering? You only need one steering shaft bearing for PS. The motor mounts to where the other bearing would go.

No, I did not order power steering with the kit. I will likely be going a different route.

And thanks for the heads-up.

Earl

narly1

04-18-2023, 11:23 PM

So the completion kit came today. It's all been inventoried with only 1 POL item, that being the fuel tank vent gasket.

There does seem to be a mix up though in terms of what was sent for engine/transmission mounts & driveshaft vs what I need for my 302/AOD combination.

I'm sure we'll get that sorted out in short order.

Earl

33fromSD

04-19-2023, 08:25 AM

TxMike64

04-19-2023, 02:49 PM

There does seem to be a mix up though in terms of what was sent for engine/transmission mounts & driveshaft vs what I need for my 302/AOD combination.

I'm having an issue getting my 302/AOD mounts, brackets, hardware as well. Also J-pipes... I've also been told that the shorty headers are on backorder.

FF33rod

04-19-2023, 06:45 PM

For the 302 block, these are the BBK headers you want
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bbk-15150

Steve

TxMike64

04-20-2023, 08:52 AM

For the 302 block, these are the BBK headers you want
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bbk-15150

Steve

Yeah, I've got those on my Summit Wishlist, but I paid for a complete install kit.....

narly1

04-22-2023, 09:29 AM

Prepping suspension parts for powdercoating this morning. Polishing the sharp edges and weld spatter out of the unpainted pieces with the exception of the front lower arms which after disassembly are sitting in solvent to wash out the grease in them first.

I feel bad about undoing somebody's work, but it has to be done. All of the rear pieces came powdercoated black with their bushings, sleeves and zerk fittings installed. They will be getting the paint strip & polish treatment as well.

Earl

narly1

05-12-2023, 11:02 AM

I separated the body from the frame and made this raised table on wheels for it to sit on. That way I can store it over top of the frame and wheel it out of the way when I need to work.

184408

narly1

05-12-2023, 11:09 AM

I ordered my fame bare as I wanted something different than black.

So I've taken it upon myself to clean up any sharp edges and weld spatter as the first step before powdercoating.

One positive outcome of this is that I'm getting a good understanding of the frame layout and a real appreciation for the workmanship that goes into them.

Beautiful.

184409

Apologies for the surface rust, an unavoidable consequence of the long, wet drive home and monsoon season here in southern Ontario.

Note that I've been using what are known as "surface conditioning" discs for the clean-up. If you never used them, they're like scotchbrite pads on steroids.

Earl

narly1

05-12-2023, 11:26 AM

I should also give you an update on my POL situation.

Parts have been dribbling in every so often over the past month. I have almost everything now except for the correct driveshaft and motor mount parts (got the wrong ones in error).

My takeaway from this is that FFR's new inventory management system is making a difference. These parts delays are nothing compared to what I went through when I was building my engine.

Earl

TxMike64

05-12-2023, 06:00 PM

184408

I think that's the first time I've seen the Speedstar body in the raw. I didn't know the entire cowl was different! I though just the cowl where it meets the windshield frame. Which means the back edge of the hood and side covers is different too. this body will probably not look good without side covers.

Guess I need to go look at the Speedstar gallery again...

narly1

06-05-2023, 08:53 AM

Sometimes not working on the car is working on the car if you know what I mean.

This past weekend's activity was a garage clean-out and yard sale. As a result I now have the extra space needed to move all of the parts boxes from inside the house into the 2nd garage bay, plus some stuff cramping my workspace in the 1st bay where the frame is.

My car wanted its garage back, LOL!

Earl

narly1

06-05-2023, 02:16 PM

This past weekend's activity....

I'll openly admit that I should have had this done long before the kit ever showed up, but building the new garden shed (that was also part of the garage clear-out/clean-up task) consumed all of my free time last summer/fall.

At least I can say that I'm getting it done, there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Earl

narly1

06-23-2023, 12:17 PM

Center section and C-hubs got a wash and coating of Nyalic.

My first time using this stuff and I really like the results.

Earl

186240

TxMike64

06-23-2023, 01:11 PM

Center section and C-hubs got a wash and coating of Nyalic.

My first time using this stuff and I really like the results.

Earl
186240

Looks very similar to Sharkhide, similar price too. I heard about Sharkhide through a youtube channel I watch and was going to use it similar to you.

narly1

06-23-2023, 01:47 PM

Looks very similar to Sharkhide, similar price too. I heard about Sharkhide through a youtube channel I watch and was going to use it similar to you.

Sharkhide seems to be a bit harder to come by up here in Canada. I found this stuff in a discussion somewhere about Sharkhide alternatives and it was given high praise so between that and the fact that a fairly local farm implement dealer carried it, I pulled the trigger.

It's a bit on the runny side, like thinned out polyurethane, so you have to watch for drips on the underside of parts. Nyalic also sells a cleaner for their coating, not sure how critical it is that you use it, but I did after giving everything a good wipe-down with lacquer thinners as a degreaser.

I really like the way it coats ferrous parts that would otherwise start rusting if not protected.

Earl

Dgc333

06-24-2023, 05:40 AM

I think that's the first time I've seen the Speedstar body in the raw. I didn't know the entire cowl was different! I though just the cowl where it meets the windshield frame. Which means the back edge of the hood and side covers is different too. this body will probably not look good without side covers.

Guess I need to go look at the Speedstar gallery again...

Here is my Speedstar.

186261

narly1

07-04-2023, 01:07 PM

"Date with the Devil": prepping the frame for powdercoating

I say this because:

1. The devil is in the details.

2. Some of those welds (and there are a ton of them) are the devil to get at.

3. I somehow managed to mess up my back and it hurts like the devil.

Nonetheless I'm pressing on, I added a few vacation days onto the long holiday weekend and have made some great progress cleaning up weld spatter (surprisingly little), sharp/rough edges & welds, and the little laser cutter lead-in/lead out pips left behind on the plate steel parts.

I'm hoping to be at the point where I can flip the frame upside down on the weekend to catch the last little bit.....then it's off to the powder painter's shop.

Earl

narly1

07-15-2023, 09:54 PM

Still working on the daily grind. This back pain thing is really slowing my progress. I'm at the point where I do what I can when I can. Getting close to being able to flip the frame over though.

In other news I managed to score a used air rivet gun in almost new condition for $40.

Earl

progmgr1

07-16-2023, 03:59 AM

I can sympathize with your back pain issue. I had 3 surgeries during my (still ongoing) build and am now fully fused from L2 to S1. I hope yours doesn't come to that.

Keith HR #894

narly1

07-16-2023, 06:12 AM

I can sympathize with your back pain issue. I had 3 surgeries during my (still ongoing) build and am now fully fused from L2 to S1. I hope yours doesn't come to that.

Keith HR #894

I've been doing physio and getting great immediate (after visit) and encouraging between visit results. Part of the issue I'm having goes back to when I broke my femur. Scar tissue. Everything relates to everything, the human body is a finely balanced machine.

Earl

progmgr1

07-16-2023, 04:43 PM

Yup. Everything is connected and there are always unintended consequences. Now that my back is fully fused, I'm having trouble with my sacroiliac and hip joints. I just succeeded in moving the problem to another area. That's why I suggest continuing with PT and exercise as long as you can.

Keith HR #894

33fromSD

07-17-2023, 05:05 AM

Yup, my back doctor tells me some time in the next 5-10 years I'm going to need surgery for L3-L4 pinched nerve issues (lose complete feeling in my right leg down to the knee which is kind of scary). We've figured out if I can get an epidural injection every 4-6 months in that L3-L4 area and then continue on with daily exercises me and my PT worked on I can prolong the "S" word for a few years, maybe longer. Been almost a year now (just got another injection the other day) but eventually they tell me injections/PT just won't do it any more.

Keith & Earl, I feel your pain (excuse the pun), we do what we can do, when we can do it, sometimes our bodies just don't cooperate anymore.

Jim

narly1

08-27-2023, 08:02 PM

progmgr1

08-28-2023, 03:49 PM

I also went with the bare chassis, since I planned to do a lot of customization that would require welding and structural modifications. However, I recently recognized that I went too far down assembly road before tearing everything off for powder coat. Stuff gets much more complicated when you make it to be removeable and easily reassembled. Also, I found that it could be difficult to get all the rivet holes to line up if I had to mount panels several times, so I recommend that you not pre-drill the rivet holes.

I suggest that you make a detailed plan of the chassis mods you want to make and make those a priority - then get the chassis powder coated as soon as you can fit it in the budget. Life will be easier and you won't have as much to do twice.

Have fun with your build!

Keith HR #894

narly1

08-28-2023, 08:06 PM

TxMike64

09-07-2023, 05:44 PM

Disappointed and a bit embarrassed that I've made almost zero progress since my last update due to the back pain thing. Almost 2 whole months lost! No joke. The good news is that I'm starting to feel more like my old self again. The frame is flipped upside down at the moment so I can get at the last of the welds and clean them up. While it's in this attitude I'm going to drill the outer floor panels. I've decided to delay powder coating the frame until much later in the build process.

Earl

I know how you feel - I'm just now getting back to work on mine after about 3 or 4 months... But I don't have any health excuses. It's been hotter than hell this year and I couldn't manage. Work and kids/family are my main excuse. But I'm happier to be back working on it.

Glad to hear you're back at it as well!

narly1

07-22-2024, 10:45 PM

I haven't posted in awhile as there wasn't much to add. Ended up busy over the winter finishing up a rec room reno that I started back before I hurt myself. Glad that's done LOL. Then over the past few months I've been finishing up the frame prep for powdercoat.

I just got the frame back last week, here's the result. It looks blue-ish as it's partly in the shade:

202131

progmgr1

07-22-2024, 11:27 PM

I'm hoping to soon be at the powder coating step. Did you also have the various suspension bits done? What about your aluminum sheet metal panels? I'm still weighing all the options while I finish up some other tasks...

Keith HR #894

narly1

07-22-2024, 11:42 PM

Yes I had the suspension parts done as well. Pictures coming soon.

For the sheet aluminum I am taking a couple of different approaches. For the surfaces facing the road a coat or two of self etching aluminum primer followed by Rhino. Engine bay side of firewall will be powdercoated. Inner surfaces of exterior facing panels will get a coat or two of homemade Lizard Skin (the same aluminum primer with glass microspheres and calcium carbonate mixed in).

Earl

narly1

07-23-2024, 07:01 AM

I built up the front lower arms last night. Still need to load the ball joints with new grease as I had to wash out what was in them before powder coating. Going to Lucas Red & Tacky. Just waiting on some colour matched touch up paint to arrive now. I need to fix up some missed places due to masking error.

202147

progmgr1

07-23-2024, 02:01 PM

I couldn't get the link to work(?)
Keith HR #894

narly1

07-23-2024, 02:13 PM

Try now.

progmgr1

07-24-2024, 03:50 AM

yes, working now.

Are those parts silver / gray? What powder did you use?

Keith HR #894

narly1

07-24-2024, 06:05 AM

The colour is Tiger Drylac Anodized Silver code 138/91021.

There is quite a variety of silver hues out there ranging from the whiter side to the blue/black.

This particular one is supposed to be one of their most common/popular and toughest formulations.

Earl

narly1

07-24-2024, 10:40 AM

Built up these pieces last night.

The big snap rings for the upper ball joints tested the limits of my pliers but I got the job done.

I think I'm going to apply a coat of Nyalic to the exposed portions of the ball joints before installing them.

202159

Earl

FF33rod

07-24-2024, 01:47 PM

For powder coating smaller parts, highly recommend the Eastwood kit...
This is a newer version of the one I got about 5 yrs ago. Super easy
(I might have done a larger part or two in the home oven when the Admiral wasn't home)
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-hotcoatr-pcs-250-and-benchtop-oven-kit.html

Prismatic Powders was an excellent source of a wide array of colours and coatings...
Steve

narly1

07-24-2024, 02:07 PM

narly1

07-24-2024, 09:34 PM

Not a lot of free time tonight as I had to pick up my one son after he dropped his car off for service.

I did manage to get the shocks built up though. The set screw threads in one of the collars were a little messed up so that took a little extra time time with a tap and oil.

Another thing I've taken to doing is to snip the corner(s) of the corresponding page(s) in the manual off once each task is completed.

Hopefully that way I won't overlook something.

202178

Earl

narly1

07-30-2024, 08:11 AM

Over the past few days I've managed to clip the corners off of a few more pages in the assembly manual. Upper/lower arms and shocks installed.

Both loving and hating my powdercoater at the same time. That thick coat of beautiful silver he laid down made fitting these pieces a bigger job than I was anticipating. Pretty much had to spread everything a bit with threaded rod and nuts to get it altogether.

Earl

202303

narly1

07-30-2024, 09:21 PM

So this is what I ended up doing to tighten down the lower ball joint nuts. There wasn't enough room to get my torque wrench in there.

You add some sort of extension that will fit onto the end of your torque wrench. Torque is nothing more than force times distance, so if you increase the distance the torque read at the wrench's indicator is less,. In this case the torque wrench was ~ 565 mm long and the combination wrench that I used as an extension was 295 mm long. So the indicated torque was 565/ (565 + 295) or 65% of the true torque,. The spec is 80-110 ft-lbs so I used 70 ft lbs so as to be somewhere in the middle.

202318

narly1

08-01-2024, 06:10 AM

Who needs a gym membership when you have a hot rod LOL. Quite the workout this evening tightening down almost all of the front suspension components. Still have to double check the ball joint spindle nuts and put cotter pins through them before I'm finished. Don't want to look out the side window only to see a wheel passing me LOL.

Earl

202356

33fromSD

08-01-2024, 08:55 AM

Looks great, but I'm almost afraid to tell you this.

Normally (for any vehicle, not just the 33) you should not fully tighten/torque any of the suspension (front or rear) until the vehicle is fully built and the car is resting at full weight on it's wheels (no jack or jack stands). You could potentially (not always) get binding in the suspension.

I personally also like to roll the vehicle back and forth a few times and push up and down on all the corners a few times before doing final tightening / torqueing.

Jim

narly1

08-01-2024, 09:11 AM

Looks great, but I'm almost afraid to tell you this.

Jim

Thanks for the heads-up. I think I'll leave things as they are for now. My worst fear is that I'll forget to properly torque something down and end up with a safety issue. That and I can always revisit this closer to the end of the build, at the same time I'm doing my crude wheel alignment.

Remind me again when that time comes LOL.

Earl

Dgc333

08-02-2024, 06:31 AM

Binding of the suspension is associated with vehicles that have rubber bushings. Rubber bushings are bonded to the inner and outer shells and suspension motion actually twists and deforms the rubber. By waiting until the vehicle is at ride height to tighten the suspension avoids having the bushing deformed at ride height which avoids binding and premature failure.

The 33 has poly bushings at all points of motion. They rotate on the inner sleeve which avoids binding. They all have grease fittings that lubricate this interface. There is no issue with torquing the suspension while it is unloaded.

narly1

08-02-2024, 07:15 AM

The sum total of last night's activity was the assembly of these 6 suspension arm components in preparation for their installation onto the chassis.
Between finding the documentation to be a bit lacking and having to search for some of the parts that ended up being in another box than expected I had my work cut out for me.

Earl

202375

narly1

08-06-2024, 10:01 PM

Rear axle and suspension install finished.

202623

narly1

08-17-2024, 08:06 PM

Firewall and foot boxes installed using 1/4" button head fasteners. Steering rack and tie rods in. Pedal box and steering column partly done, waiting on EPAS kit and a different remote brake fluid reservoir. The panels will eventually be coming back out to be powder coated the same colour as the frame.

Earl

202842202843202844

j33ptj

08-22-2024, 01:16 AM

You can always dab a little marker paint on the bolt/nut that you torqued up... visual aide de memoire

narly1

08-22-2024, 06:40 AM

You can always dab a little marker paint on the bolt/nut that you torqued up... visual aide de memoire

That's a great idea as it serves as a visual indication that the fastener has been torqued!

And also that it's not loosening after the fact.

Earl

narly1

08-22-2024, 03:10 PM

A start to my mini-review of the EPAS system I ordered straight from China off of Alibaba.
The lowest price I could find for a kit here in Canada was about $779 (~$573 US) before tax & shipping.
This unit cost me about $565 (~$415 US). The kit is pretty bare bones, just the motor, control box and wiring harness. It comes with mounting bolts for both units and a few crimp connectors that I'll probably toss. No instructions or warranty card, etc. So I guess I'm on my own LOL.
Otherwise it looks exactly the same as all of the 220W units available domestically. The box cast backing shows the same "IDK" marking the ones here have. Note that there is no mounting tab so I might have to make something up out of strip stock depending on where I end up mounting that.
A quick check of the motor splines reveals that it is a 11/16-36. Ordered a couple of mating U-joints to connect to the kit supplied 3/4" double D shafts. These were $70 (~$52US).
The only other issue that I can foresee coming into play is the length of the cables from the motor, they are only about 18" long, but should be easy to extend.
P.S. Before flaming me on going cheap on a steering component recognize that the worst thing that can happen is that the unit stops working leaving me with just the "armstrong" steering I started out with. (The shafts on the motor are bigger than the ones on the steering rack, LOL.)

Earl

203012

progmgr1

08-22-2024, 06:52 PM

That's a great idea as it serves as a visual indication that the fastener has been torqued!

And also that it's not loosening after the fact.

Earl

There's a product available in the US called "Cross-Check Torque Seal" that is specifically designed for this purpose. I got it from McMaster-Carr ("Tamper and Vibration Detection Paint" on their website). However, the MM-C site says that they cannot sell it outside the US due to "local VOC regulations". IIRC, this joint loosening detection technique is used everywhere, so I expect you can find a similar paint from a local supplier.

Keith HR #894

narly1

08-22-2024, 11:26 PM

There's a product available in the US......

Keith HR #894

Thinking a regular paint (not ink) marker pen like this would work just fine:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-inkzall-paint-marker-in-white/1001099367

Earl

progmgr1

08-23-2024, 02:45 AM

The Torque Seal sticks well to most materials and becomes very brittle when it dries, so it visibly cracks whenever a joint is disturbed. I have seen ordinary paint stick to one side of a joint and lift off from the other side without cracking - so it can be hard to detect loosening. Ordinary paint might work for this purpose, but then it may not. Seemed like a cheap investment to me.

Keith HR #894

narly1

09-09-2024, 06:44 AM

A start to my mini-review of the EPAS system I ordered straight from China off of Alibaba.

UPDATE: Finally got the correct spline pattern U-joints and got everything installed. Pretty straightforward other than I had to shorten the shaft between the firewall and assist motor U-joints.

Once I got that sorted out I hooked it up to 12V and it works as it should.

Earl

narly1

09-13-2024, 08:44 PM

So did I mount my remote reservoir too high up?

The top surface of the cap sits below the firewall top edge.

204123

Earl

Dgc333

09-14-2024, 06:26 AM

So did I mount my remote reservoir too high up?
The top surface of the cap sits below the firewall top edge.
204123

Earl

Yes, there is a feature on the hood that sits down in front of the firewall. With the reservoir that high it will interfere with the hood closing.

narly1

09-14-2024, 07:32 AM

Yes, there is a feature on the hood that sits down in front of the firewall. With the reservoir that high it will interfere with the hood closing.

Thanks. I guess I'll leave it as is for now and fix it later when the time comes to fit the hood.

Earl

narly1

01-31-2025, 09:44 PM

After a long wait my brake kits finally showed up. Thanks Gordon Levy Racing for setting me up.

I guess I know what I'm doing the next little bit.

209873

Earl

narly1

08-25-2025, 04:15 PM

I'm openly admitting that I'm pathetic when it comes to build updates.

The brakes went together OK but ended up with a slight leak in the rear. As it turned out I had the hose adapter cross threaded into the tee fitting back there. So got that sorted out and we're all good now.

Got my tires and rims together. Foose Legends and Nitto 555's. 20 x10 wheels on the rear 18 x 8.5 on the front. Ended up adding 1/2" spacers on the front and 2" ones on the back due to the positive offset on these rims.

Fuel lines plumbed an pump/filters installed. Road facing sides of the sheetmetal pieces got a coat of Raptor bed liner an are temporarily in place for now.

More significantly is now that my build is to this stage I can switch the chassis and engine between garage bays. This will allow me to do a bit more pre-install work on the engine. Hopefully I can get it into the chassis before winter.

217986

217987

narly1

11-04-2025, 08:26 PM

I've been struggling of late with the engine not wanting to start after sitting unused since I put it together a while back.

After much troubleshooting it turns out that all 8 injectors were plugged with verdigris, caused by the remnants of old dead gas in the fuel rails.
After cleaning them out the engine roared to life on the first try.

Next step is to sort out an (IMO) excessive vibration condition before marrying it up to the transmission and installing the pair into the chassis.