Val Finally Builds a Roadster

[Mister Val]

Hello forum! I've been lurking for a while, dreaming of a Cobra for about the last 25 years... and I finally ordered my complete kit a couple of weeks ago! I should receive it in early March, and I cannot wait to get started. I've got a pretty good idea of what I want to build (below) as well as some initial questions (farther below)...

But first, it seems traditional to include a bit about myself. I live in Rhode Island, only about 45 minutes down the road from Factory Five (so picking up the kit myself is a no-brainer). I told myself years ago that I'd build a Cobra by the time I turned 40. That will be next month, so at least I got the kit ordered in time. Anyway, I divide my time between being a stay-at-home dad / "house-spouse," and working freelance contracts in 3D animation. I've had a pretty fruitful year and am starting a 1+ year contract soon, and so it was time to visit FFR and get my order started. I've done a bit of automotive maintenance over the years, but would say that I have a LOT to learn as I go through the process of building this car. Browsing the forum has been spectacularly useful so far, and I'm sure I will be peppering all of you with questions once I get started. The goal for this car is 100% to be a street car. I don't intend to ever race it, and I am not particularly bothered about keeping it period-correct. I'd rather have it be comfortable and useable so that I drive it more.

Ok, back to the build. I ordered the MK4 complete kit with the following options:
- Powder coated chassis
- IRS
- GPS gauges
- 17" Halibrand replica wheels
- Wind wings
- Wipers
- Chrome roll bars (both sides)
- Coyote installation kit
- IRS 3.55 center section and spindles

I'm planning to use Gas-N headers and touring pipes, so I deleted the exhaust components from the FFR order.

For engine and transmission, I'm planning on a Coyote + TKX. I am tempted to order through FFR and have them assemble them for the extra $750. However, I haven't comparison shopped yet. I keep reading that Mike Forte is the man to buy an engine from, so I should check if he has a similar package, and how the prices compare. I have time -- I don't want to order the engine right away in order to maximize my warranty time.

I've got a bunch of notes about other upgrades that I plan to integrate:
- Headrests - I saw a thread where someone used Audi A4 headrests, and they looked quite good.
- LED headlight conversion
- Possibly a different set of gauges
- Footbox vents and tranny tunnel vents
- Power steering, maybe? It's costly and I am already way over projected budget.
- Hydro boost brakes, maybe? I'll probably do this if I go ahead with power steering. Consensus seems to be that it isn't necessary, though.
- Russ Thompson pedals and drop trunk
- Breeze heavy-duty door latch, seat mount, cabin cubby, and forward battery box
- Modular dash
- Seat heaters

Regarding mods, I have a couple of initial questions:
1 - I keep reading about the Breeze radiator mount, but can't figure out what the benefit is. Can someone explain?
2 - I'd like to maximize footbox space on both sides. It seems like the factory design has changed a bunch, so the forum threads aren't super consistent. Is this needed, or possible, with a Coyote on a current kit?
3 - Having trouble deciding on seats. I like the look of the diamond-stitched leather seats, but comfort is the most important factor for me. I'm also thinking that I might try to reupholster them in saddle-colored leather. Any suggestions? I wonder if FFR will let me sit in all of the seats if I go back for a visit...

[edwardb]

Congratulations on your kit order. Welcome to the madness. Some comments on your list:


My thought is always if you can build the car you can mate the clutch and transmission. It's pretty straightforward. Lots of us have done it and can help if questions. Not saying where to buy the engine/trans, but personally I wouldn't make a decision based on whether it's assembled or not. But that's just me.
If you've read the forums much, you know I'm a big proponent of power steering. Won't do my usual speech other than to say for a 100% street driven car, you will not regret it for a second. Don't make the decision based on steering effort. Make it based on the increased caster that PS allows and makes the car much easier and nicer to drive. For the Coyote, the KRC kit that Factory Five sells is expensive. But it's a high quality setup and a relatively easy bolt-on. I've done a couple.
Power brakes is another decision that you'll also get a lot of opinions about. I've done both power and manual. No complaints about power. But I've found once I got used to the somewhat heavier pedal of the manual brakes, they were fine. Note adding power brakes to the standard Wilwood pedal box means moving the master cylinders out of the footbox and onto the front, a mod to the Wilwood box, and losing the front-rear bias adjustment capability of the Wilwood setup. I've done hydroboost, and it works well. But the units aren't cheap and if you use SS flex tubing and connectors, it adds up. All-in-all, a relatively expensive upgrade. Vacuum is a more economical approach.
Just a few days ago, Dave Smith announced a new in-house developed door latch that replaces the apparently impossible to obtain vintage style latches. At it's core, it's a 2-step bear claw latch. Same thing as Breeze (Mark) has in his. I'm assuming these new FF latches will be standard in kits going forward. So wouldn't seem necessary to buy the Breeze ones. (Sorry Mark)
The Breeze radiator mounts address what most of us agree is a somewhat weak design from Factory Five. I'm especially a fan of the bottom mount. It provides a solid mount for the radiator when first installed and from there forward. The FF design has you hang the radiator on the upper mount, and ultimately attach the bottom to the nose sheet metal that gets installed when the body is placed for the final time. The Breeze upper mount is basically a piano hinge that replaces the upper mount designed by FF. You have to cut off their mounts and replace with the new mount. Lots of guys use them. I haven't found it's necessary. But again that's me.
The sheet metal for the footboxes has been maximized for all engines, including the Coyote, for some time. There are a few minor mods that guys do to gain a little here and there. But unless you have a specific need or situation, I'd leave it as is. Agreed, there's a lot of dated information on this topic.

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard, Mister Val. Congrats on your kit order! You're in for a real treat on this build adventure. The further I get into my build, the more I enjoy it.

I'm a first time builder, and my mechanical skills are novice at best. I also have the Coyote/TKO600 (now TKX) drivetrain, and ordered from Forte. At the time I made that decision based upon how much of a challenge I thought the build would be for me. Given his competitive drivetrain combo with packaging, etc., I went that route. In hindsight, now that I have a little bit of experience, and more importantly my confidence has grown, I would not hesitate to mate the trans to the motor myself (as Edwardb notes above). In your case, doing that might get you closer to power steering...see, I'm already helping you spent YOUR money. :p Either way, you're in for some fun. Glad you started a build thread, as I look forward to following along.

[rthomas98]

Welcome to the fun!! I was in the same boat as yourself wanting to build one by the time I was 40. On your list looks great but one thing to add. Patience!!! Make sure you are taking the build in small steps not one big gulp. Very easy to get overwhelmed. Also this forum does a great job talking you off cliffs as well when the frustration mounts and mount it will.

But as far as your questions. I agree on all with Paul said.

- I would say the Breeze lower radiator mount is one of the more important mods. Elsewise you will be doing your first go kart with zip ties! (yes F5 has you do it that way in the manual)
- On the foot box space this was a huge concern for me as well. I have a size 13 shoe. But I have driven it with the way F5 wants you to build it and there is plenty of room. The only comment I have is consider wearing something thinner in shoes when driving it. Piloti and Puma both make some nice driving shoes. Helps a lot. But given you are using a coyote engine really limits what you can do due to its width. If you were going SBF there is a kleiner mod that gets you little more space. But I ended up not doing it and seem to be fine. Talk to me in a couple of months and I can let you know I frustrated I get with it.

R.J.

[Gizmosrcool]

Hi Mister Val. Congratulations. We have a bit in common. Both wanting to do this for a number of years and recently ordered and expecting in March. Your build list is very nice and will turn out a great roadster. I look forward to following your build.

Tom

[Mister Val]

Congratulations on your kit order. Welcome to the madness. Some comments on your list:


My thought is always if you can build the car you can mate the clutch and transmission. It's pretty straightforward. Lots of us have done it and can help if questions. Not saying where to buy the engine/trans, but personally I wouldn't make a decision based on whether it's assembled or not. But that's just me.
If you've read the forums much, you know I'm a big proponent of power steering. Won't do my usual speech other than to say for a 100% street driven car, you will not regret it for a second. Don't make the decision based on steering effort. Make it based on the increased caster that PS allows and makes the car much easier and nicer to drive. For the Coyote, the KRC kit that Factory Five sells is expensive. But it's a high quality setup and a relatively easy bolt-on. I've done a couple.
Power brakes is another decision that you'll also get a lot of opinions about. I've done both power and manual. No complaints about power. But I've found once I got used to the somewhat heavier pedal of the manual brakes, they were fine. Note adding power brakes to the standard Wilwood pedal box means moving the master cylinders out of the footbox and onto the front, a mod to the Wilwood box, and losing the front-rear bias adjustment capability of the Wilwood setup. I've done hydroboost, and it works well. But the units aren't cheap and if you use SS flex tubing and connectors, it adds up. All-in-all, a relatively expensive upgrade. Vacuum is a more economical approach.
Just a few days ago, Dave Smith announced a new in-house developed door latch that replaces the apparently impossible to obtain vintage style latches. At it's core, it's a 2-step bear claw latch. Same thing as Breeze (Mark) has in his. I'm assuming these new FF latches will be standard in kits going forward. So wouldn't seem necessary to buy the Breeze ones. (Sorry Mark)
The Breeze radiator mounts address what most of us agree is a somewhat weak design from Factory Five. I'm especially a fan of the bottom mount. It provides a solid mount for the radiator when first installed and from there forward. The FF design has you hang the radiator on the upper mount, and ultimately attach the bottom to the nose sheet metal that gets installed when the body is placed for the final time. The Breeze upper mount is basically a piano hinge that replaces the upper mount designed by FF. You have to cut off their mounts and replace with the new mount. Lots of guys use them. I haven't found it's necessary. But again that's me.
The sheet metal for the footboxes has been maximized for all engines, including the Coyote, for some time. There are a few minor mods that guys do to gain a little here and there. But unless you have a specific need or situation, I'd leave it as is. Agreed, there's a lot of dated information on this topic.


edwardb, thanks for the feedback! I think you've talked me out of the hydro brakes, and into the radiator mount. Very interesting to hear about the redesigned door latches. I guess I should wait to see what my kit comes with.

[Mister Val]

Welcome aboard, Mister Val. Congrats on your kit order! You're in for a real treat on this build adventure. The further I get into my build, the more I enjoy it.

I'm a first time builder, and my mechanical skills are novice at best. I also have the Coyote/TKO600 (now TKX) drivetrain, and ordered from Forte. At the time I made that decision based upon how much of a challenge I thought the build would be for me. Given his competitive drivetrain combo with packaging, etc., I went that route. In hindsight, now that I have a little bit of experience, and more importantly my confidence has grown, I would not hesitate to mate the trans to the motor myself (as Edwardb notes above). In your case, doing that might get you closer to power steering...see, I'm already helping you spent YOUR money. :p Either way, you're in for some fun. Glad you started a build thread, as I look forward to following along.

Thanks, Chris. I'm not super intimidated by mating the motor and transmission... but everybody's confidence on here does make me feel better about it. Still undecided on which way to go, but I don't intend to order the motor until the kit is in my hands anyway.

[Mister Val]

Hi Mister Val. Congratulations. We have a bit in common. Both wanting to do this for a number of years and recently ordered and expecting in March. Your build list is very nice and will turn out a great roadster. I look forward to following your build.

Tom

Thanks Tom! I'll have to check out your thread as well. Best of luck with your build!

[Mister Val]

Welcome to the fun!! I was in the same boat as yourself wanting to build one by the time I was 40. On your list looks great but one thing to add. Patience!!! Make sure you are taking the build in small steps not one big gulp. Very easy to get overwhelmed. Also this forum does a great job talking you off cliffs as well when the frustration mounts and mount it will.

But as far as your questions. I agree on all with Paul said.

- I would say the Breeze lower radiator mount is one of the more important mods. Elsewise you will be doing your first go kart with zip ties! (yes F5 has you do it that way in the manual)
- On the foot box space this was a huge concern for me as well. I have a size 13 shoe. But I have driven it with the way F5 wants you to build it and there is plenty of room. The only comment I have is consider wearing something thinner in shoes when driving it. Piloti and Puma both make some nice driving shoes. Helps a lot. But given you are using a coyote engine really limits what you can do due to its width. If you were going SBF there is a kleiner mod that gets you little more space. But I ended up not doing it and seem to be fine. Talk to me in a couple of months and I can let you know I frustrated I get with it.

R.J.

Thanks RJ! Did you get your roadster done by the "deadline?" My shoes are only size 9, so it sounds like I will have plenty of space.

[JeffP]

Definitely talk to Mike. He can sell his packages either way and I think you'll find him to be very competitive and if you need post sales support his is second to none. He can also give you an idea of lead times - specifically for the control packs. I understand they've gotten better but it still took me 7 months to get mine, at a minimum if you decide to get a Coyote from him, you can order the control pack now and the engine later so you're not stuck waiting. I believe, and he can verify too, there are options on when the warranty 'starts' - in other words, Ford doesn't expect you to be driving it day one.

[Mister Val]

Hello all! I finally picked up my Roadster last week. I rented a 20' UHaul truck and drove down to the factory. It's a pretty short trip for me. Pick up was very smooth -- the staff at Factory Five were very helpful, and they had my kit ready to go in the back parking lot before I arrived. They had told me to get a 16' truck at least, but I was glad that I got the 20'. There wasn't a lot of room to spare. Plus, it was the same cost.

I completed my inventory this weekend, and removed all of the aluminum panels from the chassis last night. Inventory was not too bad overall, except for one box... but it seems that the fastener pack for front suspension is on backorder. So, I guess I'll be starting with the rear IRS. Assuming that's the right move?

I would post photos of the process thus far, but my account does not have permission to create an album. I have a message out to support now, so hopefully I will add photos later.

EDIT: I can finally post pictures! Here are a few photos from pick-up day.
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[Ted G]

Congrats! What is your chassis number?

[Blitzboy54]

Welcome aboard and congratulations

[Fman]

Congratulations, subscribed and looking forward to watching your car come together. About the only other item I would recommend is the Russ Thompson turn signal bezel, a nice upgrade. Have fun with the build.

[Mister Val]

Congrats! What is your chassis number?

Looks like F5R1010626RD.

[Mister Val]

Looks like F5R1010626RD.

Or maybe it's 155090... Should I be looking at the plaque on my chassis, or the number that was taped to the body when i picked up the kit?

[Mister Val]

Couple of build updates, but also and update on my lack of photos. I finally read the new-members thread and realized that until I have 20 posts, I'm not permitted to create albums. So, I'm going to carry on like this, and then add photos when I'm allowed.

Build progress: I'm missing the fasteners for front suspension, so decided to start on the IRS. Progress has been slow, as I've had a sick toddler in the house, so my wife and I are working odd hours and watching the kiddo. I drilled out the 5/8" holes and cut the ears off of the knuckles. Slightly scary cutting those pieces off with a reciprocating saw, but I got it done. Next, I knocked the studs out of the wheel hubs, and installed the new studs. My experience was similar to edwardb's -- impossible to install the new studs without the use of a pneumatic driver and torque extension.

Next up is to "chase" the holes on the center section, and then assemble it all. Can anyone tell me what "chasing" means here? Am I just enlarging the existing hole with a 5/8 bit? Sorry if it's a dumb question, but I am learning as I go!

EDIT: Photos!
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[Mister Val]

Welcome aboard and congratulations

Thanks, Blitzboy54!

[Mister Val]

Congratulations, subscribed and looking forward to watching your car come together. About the only other item I would recommend is the Russ Thompson turn signal bezel, a nice upgrade. Have fun with the build.

Good call -- I actually do intend to add the turn signal from Russ. Just forgot about it!

[Ted G]

Looks like F5R1010626RD.

That is your chassis number...... You are 10626 Congrats! I'm 10333

[Namrups]

Yes, chasing the holes means making them bigger. Just make sure that the piece is secured in place well and that you have a solid hold on the drill. IT WILL CATCH and try to twist you up into a knot! Using a 5/8" reamer is better but most people don't have reamers and just go with the drill.

[Mister Val]

That is your chassis number...... You are 10626 Congrats! I'm 10333

Ah, perfect. Thanks for confirming that... and congrats to you as well!

[Mister Val]

Yes, chasing the holes means making them bigger. Just make sure that the piece is secured in place well and that you have a solid hold on the drill. IT WILL CATCH and try to twist you up into a knot! Using a 5/8" reamer is better but most people don't have reamers and just go with the drill.

Thanks for confirming. I did a bit of research online, and it looks like an "impact reamer" or "bridge / construction reamer" is the way to go. Not sure if I want to buy a tool just for a couple of holes, so I will be careful with the drill.

[Mister Val]

This weekend I got started on the actual IRS components. The control arms are all assembled and ready to be attached. The center section is drilled out (you guys weren't kidding about the drill grabbing!) and is in place on the chassis. HOWEVER - I think that I received the wrong size bolts to attach the center section. The manual isn't very clear (it just says use the long bolts and nuts for the front, but doesn't specify what sizes to use)... so maybe you guys can tell me if I'm crazy?

I only had two 5/8 bolts from the IRS fasteners kit, and those fit into the holes on the front of the center section, but at 4" long, they did not even reach to the end of the bushings. Certainly not long enough to attach nuts. So I went to Ace and picked up some grade-8 bolts at 5" long. They seem perfect, but I'm not torquing them down yet. Hopefully somebody can confirm that this looks right.

182137182138182139

For the back of the center section, it seems like M14 bolts are what fit in the holes, and I have two of those from the IRS fastener kit. These are also short, leaving about 1/4" of thread unused on the center section. None of the provided nuts fit the M14s, so I assume they are just supposed to grab the threads on the center section itself. Right? Again, I'm not torquing yet and hopefully I can get confirmation that this is correct.

182140

[edwardb]

Can't explain the too short bolts for the front mounts on your center section. A whole bunch of threads talking about errors with the IRS hardware. Looks like you're another one. The M14 bolts for the rear mounts are fine. They aren't intended to go all the way through or have a nut on the other side. To have gotten this far, you've had to already enlarged the front mount holes to 5/8". For the record, I agree a 5/8" twist drill bit grabs like crazy. Been there and done that too. Agree also 5/8" reamers are expensive to buy for just a couple holes. For my last build, I used a step drill bit. Most don't have a long enough section at the 5/8" size to go all the way through. But if you go in as far as possible from both sides, it leaves just a small amount to finish with a twist drill bit a little to no grabbing. I've found the H-F step drills to be surprisingly decent for no more than they cost.

[Mister Val]

Can't explain the too short bolts for the front mounts on your center section. A whole bunch of threads talking about errors with the IRS hardware. Looks like you're another one. The M14 bolts for the rear mounts are fine. They aren't intended to go all the way through or have a nut on the other side. To have gotten this far, you've had to already enlarged the front mount holes to 5/8". For the record, I agree a 5/8" twist drill bit grabs like crazy. Been there and done that too. Agree also 5/8" reamers are expensive to buy for just a couple holes. For my last build, I used a step drill bit. Most don't have a long enough section at the 5/8" size to go all the way through. But if you go in as far as possible from both sides, it leaves just a small amount to finish with a twist drill bit a little to no grabbing. I've round the H-F step drills to be surprisingly decent for no more than they cost.

Thanks -- I appreciate the confirmation on these bolts! I did start with a step bit for the 5/8 holes, but it was a pretty shallow one that I already had on hand. It only got me about 1/4" deep. I figured that if nothing else, it would help me keep the twist bit straight. Didn't even think of checking HF for a longer step bit.

[Mike.Bray]

This was in a thread a couple of months ago. I hope Factory Five works on updating their manuals to better call out fastener information.

The Differential calls for the following:
2 - M14-2mm x 100mm flange head bolts
2 - M16-2mm x 130mm flange head bolts
4 - M16-2mm deformed thread flanged lock nuts

Upper control arms:
2 - 5/8"-11 x 4 1/4" bolts
2 - 5/8"-11 lock nuts
2 - 5/8" washers
4 - M16-2mm x 110mm flanged head bolts
4 - M16-2mm deformed thread flanged lock nuts

Lower control arm:
2 - M16-2mm x 90mm flanged head bolts
4 - M16-2mm x 110mm flanged head bolts
6 - M16-2mm deformed thread flanged lock nuts

Toe arms:
2 - 5/8"-11 x 2 1/4" bolts
2 - 5/8"-11 lock nuts
2 - M14-2mm x 80mm bolts
2 - M14-2mm lock nuts

IRS Shocks
2 - 1/2"-13 x 3 1/4" bolts
2 - 1/2"-13 x 4" bolts
4 - 1/2"-13 nylon lock nuts

[Mister Val]

This was in a thread a couple of months ago. I hope Factory Five works on updating their manuals to better call out fastener information.

The Differential calls for the following:
2 - M14-2mm x 100mm flange head bolts
2 - M16-2mm x 130mm flange head bolts
4 - M16-2mm deformed thread flanged lock nuts

Upper control arms:
2 - 5/8"-11 x 4 1/4" bolts
2 - 5/8"-11 lock nuts
2 - 5/8" washers
4 - M16-2mm x 110mm flanged head bolts
4 - M16-2mm deformed thread flanged lock nuts

Lower control arm:
2 - M16-2mm x 90mm flanged head bolts
4 - M16-2mm x 110mm flanged head bolts
6 - M16-2mm deformed thread flanged lock nuts

Toe arms:
2 - 5/8"-11 x 2 1/4" bolts
2 - 5/8"-11 lock nuts
2 - M14-2mm x 80mm bolts
2 - M14-2mm lock nuts

IRS Shocks
2 - 1/2"-13 x 3 1/4" bolts
2 - 1/2"-13 x 4" bolts
4 - 1/2"-13 nylon lock nuts

Ohh interesting... so for the front diff mounts, should I be using M16 x 130mm flange head bolts? The ones that I bought were 5/8" x 5" hex head, and there are two provided nuts which fit. The nuts are not flange-headed either (see image).
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[Mister Val]

I had a pretty productive day yesterday. First, got the center section nuts and bolts sorted out. Mike's breakdown was invaluable there. Thanks, Mike!

Then, I got all of the rear control arms, toe adjustment arms, spindles, hubs, and shocks installed.
182246182247182248

Pretty straightforward overall, but I do have a couple of questions.

1 - The manual didn't have me adjust the shocks at all -- just assemble and bolt on. Couldn't find a step later in the manual, either. When does this get done?
2 - I had some parts left over from the IRS fastener box. Any idea where these get used?
182249

It was nice to get a good amount done, and to get rid of several boxes. Unfortunately, I'm waiting on my rear brakes, front suspension fasteners, and pedal box... so I think I'm at a bit of a standstill until parts start to come in.

[edwardb]

Pretty straightforward overall, but I do have a couple of questions.

1 - The manual didn't have me adjust the shocks at all -- just assemble and bolt on. Couldn't find a step later in the manual, either. When does this get done?
2 - I had some parts left over from the IRS fastener box. Any idea where these get used?
182249

1. With the coilovers assembled and the shocks all the way out, turn the adjustment collars until they're just touching the springs and hold them without movement. That's your first setting. You'll adjust them further when it's time to set ride height. Likely that initial setting will be a little tight (ride height high) and you'll need to loosen. But the right place to start.

2. Those LH nuts might be extras because from your pictures looks like you have jam nuts installed and rear suspension is the only place LH nuts like that are used. As I recall... The ten 25mm socket heads (I think) are for your driveshaft adapter and driveshaft. The other four I don't know.

One hint. I see from your pictures, you have at least one of the IRS adjustments all the way to one end. That's not going to work well when you try to do the alignment. You need to have the adjustments centered with equal threads on each side. Can only be corrected by taking apart. But easier now than later. Wish this was better documented in the instructions.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/.highres/IMG_0153_zpsshxrqbwz.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/.highres/IMG_0153_zpsshxrqbwz.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/.highres/IMG_0152_zpsixzfry84.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/.highres/IMG_0152_zpsixzfry84.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[Mister Val]

1. With the coilovers assembled and the shocks all the way out, turn the adjustment collars until they're just touching the springs and hold them without movement. That's your first setting. You'll adjust them further when it's time to set ride height. Likely that initial setting will be a little tight (ride height high) and you'll need to loosen. But the right place to start.

2. Those LH nuts might be extras because from your pictures looks like you have jam nuts installed and rear suspension is the only place LH nuts like that are used. As I recall... The ten 25mm socket heads (I think) are for your driveshaft adapter and driveshaft. The other four I don't know.

One hint. I see from your pictures, you have at least one of the IRS adjustments all the way to one end. That's not going to work well when you try to do the alignment. You need to have the adjustments centered with equal threads on each side. Can only be corrected by taking apart. But easier now than later. Wish this was better documented in the instructions.


Thanks for that info! Are you sure the IRS adjustments can't be adjusted in place? I know that you know what you're talking about... but I thought that's what they were made to do. Anyway I'll have a crack at it this weekend most likely.

[edwardb]

Thanks for that info! Are you sure the IRS adjustments can't be adjusted in place? I know that you know what you're talking about... but I thought that's what they were made to do. Anyway I'll have a crack at it this weekend most likely.

You're missing my point. Absolutely the rear alignment is done without taking anything apart. One of the many advantages of the newer 2015+ design. Only loosening the jam nuts and turning the adjusters as needed. But if you don't start with the adjusters centered during assembly (as I pictured) there's a chance you could run out of adjustment later during alignment. Looks like you have at least one at the end of the available adjustment, e.g. screwed all the way in. If that's the case, requires disassembly now (unfortunately) but should be once and done.

Slightly more explanation if required. Not meaning to insult if this is obvious. The upper control arm has an adjuster for camber. The toe arm has an adjuster for toe-in. Each has an adjuster with RH and LH threads. With the jam nut loosened, turning the adjuster moves one end in and the other out because the threads are opposite. Like a turnbuckle. If either end is at the end of the adjustment, and you need to go further in that direction, it wouldn't be possible. So you need to start with the maximum amount available each direction. On a side note, the two that I've done didn't require a ton of adjustment from there for the alignment to be in spec.

[Mister Val]

You're missing my point. Absolutely the rear alignment is done without taking anything apart. One of the many advantages of the newer 2015+ design. Only loosening the jam nuts and turning the adjusters as needed. But if you don't start with the adjusters centered during assembly (as I pictured) there's a chance you could run out of adjustment later during alignment. Looks like you have at least one at the end of the available adjustment, e.g. screwed all the way in. If that's the case, requires disassembly now (unfortunately) but should be once and done.

Slightly more explanation if required. Not meaning to insult if this is obvious. The upper control arm has an adjuster for camber. The toe arm has an adjuster for toe-in. Each has an adjuster with RH and LH threads. With the jam nut loosened, turning the adjuster moves one end in and the other out because the threads are opposite. Like a turnbuckle. If either end is at the end of the adjustment, and you need to go further in that direction, it wouldn't be possible. So you need to start with the maximum amount available each direction. On a side note, the two that I've done didn't require a ton of adjustment from there for the alignment to be in spec.

Got it! Extra explanation is ALWAYS welcome here, no insult taken.

[Mister Val]

Alright, I sorted out those IRS adjustments. Big thanks to Paul for pointing out my error -- it makes perfect sense now. In case anybody else stumbles across this, here's what went wrong:

When initially assembling the control arms and toe adjustment arms, I screwed the adjustments in all the way, and set the initial length per the manual just using the rod ends. I had a brain-fart, and thought that I could turn the center to "slide" it from one end to the other... effectively adjusting nothing. The correct way to assemble these is with equal amounts of thread exposed on either side of the center. When turned it either draws the two ends of the part together, or pushes them apart.

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[jvfitz]

Do you have a drawing of the dolly you put the chassis on? I have my kit coming in a month and would like to be ready for it.

[Mister Val]

I'm at a standstill until I receive some parts from Factory Five. Looking forward at the next steps, I have a couple of questions about pedals and pedal boxes.

1 - The manual says that the front panel of the pedalbox which ships attached to the chassis is for the OEM Mustang parts, and that a Wilwood pedalbox is packaged in the kit (one of my missing parts). I'm building a complete kit... so I should be using the Wilwood panel, right?

2 - I don't love the appearance of the accelerator pedal that came with the kit, and I can't find the brake and clutch pedals (honestly can't remember if they were missing or not). I'm thinking about ordering the Russ Thompson throttle pedal and the MK3 matching clutch and brake pedal covers. Just want to verify before ordering - are these compatible with current Mk4 kits and Coyote setups?

3 - Looks like FFR does not offer the Wilwood pedal upgrade when ordering the kit currently, but they are still available on factoryfiveparts. It's much more expensive, but this is another option. Still compatible?

[Mister Val]

Do you have a drawing of the dolly you put the chassis on? I have my kit coming in a month and would like to be ready for it.

Sure -- here you go. I omitted a couple of the diagonal braces because I got lazy, but it's plenty sturdy as-is.
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[edwardb]

I'm at a standstill until I receive some parts from Factory Five. Looking forward at the next steps, I have a couple of questions about pedals and pedal boxes.

1 - The manual says that the front panel of the pedalbox which ships attached to the chassis is for the OEM Mustang parts, and that a Wilwood pedalbox is packaged in the kit (one of my missing parts). I'm building a complete kit... so I should be using the Wilwood panel, right?

2 - I don't love the appearance of the accelerator pedal that came with the kit, and I can't find the brake and clutch pedals (honestly can't remember if they were missing or not). I'm thinking about ordering the Russ Thompson throttle pedal and the MK3 matching clutch and brake pedal covers. Just want to verify before ordering - are these compatible with current Mk4 kits and Coyote setups?

3 - Looks like FFR does not offer the Wilwood pedal upgrade when ordering the kit currently, but they are still available on factoryfiveparts. It's much more expensive, but this is another option. Still compatible?

1. Yes, use the Wilwood specific front panel.

2. With a Coyote you already have an accelerator pedal you have to use. You can dress it up if you want. But you have to use the module. Don’t get the RT one.

3. The Wilwood pedals come in the box with the pedal box. I wouldn’t rush to replace them. They have the advantage of being adjustable side-to-side. Which can help with your setup.

[Mister Val]

1. Yes, use the Wilwood specific front panel.

2. With a Coyote you already have an accelerator pedal you have to use. You can dress it up if you want. But you have to use the module. Don’t get the RT one.

3. The Wilwood pedals come in the box with the pedal box. I wouldn’t rush to replace them. They have the advantage of being adjustable side-to-side. Which can help with your setup.

Perfect -- thanks for that info, Paul. I like the look of the Wilwood pedals, so I'll try to figure a way to dress up the Coyote accelerator.

[Mister Val]

Got most of the front suspension done the other day, and then realized that I need to trim my upper control arms (I'm doing power steering, and couldn't get the rears down to 7.375). Plus, I am thinking that I did not fully install the ball joints in my upper control arms... So, I ordered the nice Howe ball joints, and I'll be disassembling to take care of those items. Pics when it's done.

I do have a couple of questions before I go any further than that, though.

1 - The manual doesn't mention swapping the studs like I did for the rear hubs. Do I just leave the studs as they came?

2 - Anybody know which fasteners to use for the steering arms? I can probably match them visually, but would hate to find out I used the wrong ones later.

[Namrups]

No need to swap the front studs. The lug nuts that come with the FF wheels fit the front lugs but not the rear. The reason to swap the rear is to match what you have in the front.

[edwardb]

No need to swap the front studs. The lug nuts that come with the FF wheels fit the front lugs but not the rear. The reason to swap the rear is to match what you have in the front.

Correct. The front hubs are Mustang SN-95 parts which are 1/2x20 inch threads. Which Ford was using at the time. The IRS hubs are from 2015+ Mustangs which are M14 x 1.5 metric. Mostly metric everything on later Ford products. The replacement studs for the IRS hubs are to make the build 1/2x20 on all four corners.

A note with this explanation in the manual would be helpful. The need or reason to change the IRS studs seems to come up a lot.

[Mister Val]

This week I disassembled the control arms and trim the rear adjusters. Ended up using a hacksaw with a miter box for the sleeves, and just clamping the bolts to a bench and sawing them. Reassembled with some anti-seize. I think it turned out alright. It hits the specified measurements now, at any rate.

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After that, I pulled out the old ball joints. I had installed them with loctite, but couldn't get them all the way in... so ordered the Howe joints. They'll arrive later today. Getting the old ones out was a chore. Wondering if I need to clean out the threads on the control arm before installing the new ones?

Next I got started on the rear brakes. I ordered the 13" IRS brake kit from FFR. Got the pads seated in the calipers (surprisingly difficult!), and then quickly realized that I am missing two of the adapter plates. Sent out an e-mail to FFR last night, so hopefully they can ship those over soon.

Not too many pics this time because everything is sort of half-assembled. I'll show more next time!

PS - Thanks to Scott and Paul for confirmation on the front studs! You guys are so helpful.

[Mike.Bray]

Wondering if I need to clean out the threads on the control arm before installing the new ones?

I would. A Dremel with a wire brush makes short work of it.

[Mister Val]

My Howe ball joints arrived yesterday, so today I was able to finish off the front suspension. Took Mike's advice and cleaned out the upper control arms with a wire wheel. Holy crap what a difference the Howe joints make. They threaded all the way in by hand with no resistance. Took them out, added some loctite, rethreaded and gave a good tug on the bench vise. I could not fit a socket onto the nuts for the upper ball joints, so just torqued by feel with a wrench. I assume that with the cotter pin in place, torque isn't crucial for those particular nuts.

I noticed that the FFR video for front suspension uses washers for the shocks, even though the manual doesn't. So, I went ahead and used them on the front, and also added them to the rear suspension. Just realized while typing this that I only used washers on the top mounting points... so I guess I'll add them to the lower points tomorrow.

Steering arms and wheel hubs went on easily, and we're done for the day!

Ohh yeah, also gave the F-Panels a brushing, treated with sharkhide, and mounted them. The factory alignment of these panels was terrible. If I had used their original holes I wouldn't have even been able to attach to some of the framing members. Hopefully the rest of the panels are better.

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[edwardb]

Ohh yeah, also gave the F-Panels a brushing, treated with sharkhide, and mounted them. The factory alignment of these panels was terrible. If I had used their original holes I wouldn't have even been able to attach to some of the framing members. Hopefully the rest of the panels are better.

Has been mentioned on the forum a number of times -- the panels FF mounts are for shipping and may/may not be properly aligned for actual assembly. They are attached to the frame when the kit is staged for shipping. Take their mounting as suggestions only and align as necessary for best fit.

[Mister Val]

The front brakes were really uneventful (read: easy)... Not a lot to say except that the manual says to use the provided grease on the pins, and I could not find it anywhere. Probably threw it in the trash without paying attention.

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[Mister Val]

1. Yes, use the Wilwood specific front panel.

Update for future readers: I spoke with Factory Five yesterday, and we no longer need to swap the aluminum panel on the front of the driver's footbox. It seems they've started shipping with the correct panel attached to the chassis. Very confusing, because the manual still says to swap it.

[Mister Val]

Got most of the pedal box put together today. I have a hydraulic clutch kit on order from Forte which I expect to arrive tomorrow. From what I can tell, the Coyote engine comes with a pedal which I should use instead of the one that came from Factory Five. Should have that next month.

Anyway, what I did accomplish with the pedal box was very satisfying. Probably the most fun I've had with this kit so far. Once I got the two brake MCs bolted down, I noticed that the clevises were too far apart along the balance bar. Wilwood specifies that the gaps between the clevises and the center section should be 0.2-0.25" total. Mine were somewhere around 0.45". So, I had to pull one of the MCs back off in order to thread the clevis farther onto the balance bar. Now it's sitting at almost exactly 0.2" total.

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[Gizmosrcool]

The front brakes were really uneventful (read: easy)... Not a lot to say except that the manual says to use the provided grease on the pins, and I could not find it anywhere. Probably threw it in the trash without paying attention.

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Hey Mr Val. You do need some grease on the pins. The rubber thing it slides into holds a little bit. Without it the calipers will not slide very well.

[Mister Val]

Thanks for pointing that out. I actually did grease them -- just forgot to mention so. Never did find the supplied grease, so I picked some up from a nearby shop.

[mosh1999]

I think your steering arms are on the wrong sides, hard to tell from the pics.

[Gizmosrcool]

Mr. Val.

1 = No. The front hub is good to go

2 = See if this picture is helpful. Normal bolt with flange nut.

Tom

[Gizmosrcool]

Oops. I think I was a little slow on this reply.

[Mister Val]

I think your steering arms are on the wrong sides, hard to tell from the pics.

Ooh, interesting. Here's a clearer photo. Should I flip them? Tried to match the pictures from the assembly manual, but Gizmosrcool's photo looks different.
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[Mister Val]

Mr. Val.

1 = No. The front hub is good to go

2 = See if this picture is helpful. Normal bolt with flange nut.

Tom

Hey Tom, not exactly sure what you are showing me here... Can you explain?

Thanks!

[Gizmosrcool]

From post #40. I didn’t see the 2nd page and replied. I realized my mistake, but no way to delete, sorry for the confusion. You have cruised past it and should be good to go.

[mosh1999]

Just make sure the larger hole is towards the ground so the outer tie rod can be mounted from the bottom.

[egchewy79]

Just make sure the larger hole is towards the ground so the outer tie rod can be mounted from the bottom.

+1
taper on the steering arms needs to have the larger hole on the bottom to allow the tie rod to connect from below. very easy to miss as it's a subtle difference.

[Mister Val]

From post #40. I didn’t see the 2nd page and replied. I realized my mistake, but no way to delete, sorry for the confusion. You have cruised past it and should be good to go.

Got it. Thank you for showing anyway!

[Mister Val]

Just make sure the larger hole is towards the ground so the outer tie rod can be mounted from the bottom.

Interesting. So I need to switch my steering arms now, which looks like it means removing the hubs. Hopefully that is straightforward! If anybody has any advice, let it fly!

EDIT: That wasn't too bad, actually. The worst part was removing the dust caps!

[Mister Val]

Got the power steering rack installed without much trouble, although I have some questions below. At first I was confused by the pre-installed rubber bushings and sleeves, but then read somewhere on the forum that those should be replaced with the ones that come with the kit. I don't have a press or a gear puller, so decided that this would be a good time to introduce myself to the neighbor with a large lift in his garage (we moved here pretty recently, so haven't met everybody yet). That turned out to be a good call -- he had a press and we got the bushings out in no time. Plus he's a cool guy with LOTS of tools. After that I had a devil of a time finding the new bushings. They were in Box 1 with my steering shaft, rather than box 25 with the power steering components.

Got everything bolted on easily. I do still have to go through the process of centering the rack. However, I set the initial spacing of the steering arms to 53 1/16", making sure to turn the tie rod ends an equal number of times on each side. I measured from the castle nuts, and my wheels look like they have a large negative toe. What gives?

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Next I installed the steering shaft. It looks like I will need to flip around the footbox flange bearing because my lower shaft is a bit long.

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I also put the rear brakes on the car and routed e-brake cables. I'm a bit confused about when to route the brake lines. The manual mentions connecting them after installing rear brakes, but then it doesn't actually cover running the lines until much later (if at all?).

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Lastly, I installed the clutch master cylinder. I got it from Forte, but no instructions... do they exist somewhere online?

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[Mister Val]

Once again it's been a while since my last update. I just hate to post things that are half-finished.

First of all, I picked up my coyote package! Forte's store is about an hour away, so I borrowed a neighbor's truck and drove up there. That place is WILD. Mike gave me a tour of the whole facility, helped load everything onto the truck, and away I went. The engine just barely fit into the bed of the Tacoma.

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The other update is that I got some of the cockpit aluminum done -- namely the passenger footbox and floor.

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I'm working on the Coyote accelerator pedal now. Was planning to follow Edwardb's method, but it looks like Factory Five have updated some things? The instructions now have us flip the Coyote pad around upside down, and re-mount it to the arm, and I think that the trimming instructions are different. That said, I can't figure out how it is supposed to wedge into place once the bracket is installed. Has anyone done a recent kit and come up with any tips?