3D Printing

[Namrups]

My 16 year old daughter has started to teach herself how to 3D model using Autodesk Fusion 360. They have a couple of 3D printers in her school and she has really amazed me on how well she is doing. I have been somewhat interested in 3D printing for my HO railroad but have never pursued it. Wanting to support her interest and maybe learn something myself I have purchased a 3D printer. For my first trick I had her help me design a clip to hold 2 3/8" fuel lines. We managed to design something and have been able to save it in the format that the printer will recognize and are in the process of printing it. I'm using the PLA plastic that came with the printer just to see if this piece is close to being usable or if it needs to be adjusted.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167525&d=1654121840

Will post the finished piece when its done.

[RoadRacer]

I've often thought about getting into it, because there are always little pieces to make on these cars. I guess it's way past mainstream now, so I'm probably late majority or even a laggard :D

So I'd love to hear some recommendations.. I'm deep into software engineering but know zero on this subject so bring it on.

[Namrups]

Printing is complete. Took 1 hr and 49 mins. A little touch up sanding and here is the finished piece.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167530&d=1654126390
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167529&d=1654126390
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167528&d=1654126390
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167527&d=1654126390
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=167526&d=1654126390

Pleased with the process. 3D printing may be very useful.

[Skuzzy]

Just be mindful of the low melting point for PLA (transition temperature between 140 and 150 F). While ABS has a lower tensile strength, it has a much higher melting point. The higher melting point makes ABS a natural for car stuff. Just keep the ABS clear of any hydrocarbons.

[Namrups]

Just be mindful of the low melting point for PLA (transition temperature between 140 and 150 F). While ABS has a lower tensile strength, it has a much higher melting point. The higher melting point makes ABS a natural for car stuff. Just keep the ABS clear of any hydrocarbons.

Your right. The printer came with a small roll of the PLA so that is what I used in this "proof of concept" piece.

[Windsor]

For indoor gadgets and prototyping, PLA is great — easy to print and can be done on a sub-$200 printer.

For useable automotive parts (ABS or ASA), expect to spend $500+ in the printer or upgrading the cheap one you bought to “test the waters.”

PETG can be done on the cheaper printers and has excellent chemical resistance, but it is annoying to print and may not like the elevated temps under the hood or here in the South.

On the note of “testing the waters”, Ender 3 Pro printers can be had for $100 with a Micro Center coupon, provided you have one nearby. They are of cheap quality and may break in random ways but replacement parts are cheap (Amazon) and fixing a broken car(ahem)printer is a great way to learn.

[john42]

I have been somewhat interested in 3D printing for my HO railroad but have never pursued it. Wanting to support her interest and maybe learn something myself I have purchased a 3D printer.

Shout out for Model Railroading! I'm 2 Rail O gauge myself. Santa Fe transition era / Raton Pass. I just bought a 3d Resin printer. Haven't made anything successfully ... yet..

[dukegrad98]

I play with 3D printing on occasion. I've never been into model railroading, but that caught my eye in your post -- because one of the primary applications for my 3D printer is building Lego Duplo train tracks for my young son! I can make them much more cheaply than I can buy them, and I can make parts that Lego does not offer. I've done basic straight and curved tracks, bridges, tunnels, and even a couple of locomotive engines (with small DC motors and AA battery packs) and railcars for them to tow.

I have found PLA to be too brittle, and the low melting point is an issue. PLA+ is only slightly better in my experience. As someone mentioned above, those are good materials for prototyping and proof of concept, but I don't think they're actually useful for much more than a toy or model. I would say that 90% of my printing is with PETG. It can be a little stringy, and even when you have your print settings dialed in pretty well you will likely have to trim or clean up prints when they are done. On the positive side, it has a higher melting point and is much more durable. It will bend long before it breaks, and it doesn't have the tendency to shatter or splinter that I have seen with PLA. PETG needs to be printed more slowly, on a hot bed.

Thingiverse has lots of models you can download and play with -- I haven't searched, but I bet there is a TON of HO-scale stuff already up there, free for the taking. As you have discovered, you can also use software to design your own parts from scratch, or to modify a design someone has already created. For people who do not have (and may not want to learn) Fusion, I have found that TinkerCAD is a very easy-to-use online option for basic modeling or modification of designs.

I would not be inclined to make parts that are even vaguely structural for a car, but that's just me. I prefer fuel and brake line clips made from billet aluminum, and I know they aren't going to break, melt, delaminate, break down from chemical exposure, etc. For interior items, gadgets, etc., the plastic parts might be a better option.

Cheers, John

[Namrups]

Lots of interesting information! Learning as I go. Thanks!