Coupe Heat Management Questions

[drewr]

I have a few questions to those who have tread this path before me:

1. Does the fan shroud make a significant difference? On one hand I can imagine that it improves the action of the fan, but on the other hand it seems it would impede air flow driven by the motion of the car through the front intake.

2. Many of the original Daytona Coupes had a rectangular opening in the rear of the hood near the windshield, maybe 4"x10". It seem that earlier Generations of the Type 65 had this as well. Is this an intake for carbs? Release for heat? Important? Does anyone have the dimensions, the correct location, or have recommendations for a particular aftermarket vent?

3. Does it make a difference to wrap headers? Once again, just for looks?

4. Is there a favorite footwell/cockpit heat/noise solution? There seems to be many adhesive material solutions, coatings, etc. Any recommendations?

I'm running a SBF 347 with a Holley 4 barrel and Boig Quiet Pipes/headers.

Thanks for the input.
Drew

[Ltngdrvr]

I have a few questions to those who have tread this path before me:

1. Does the fan shroud make a significant difference? On one hand I can imagine that it improves the action of the fan, but on the other hand it seems it would impede air flow driven by the motion of the car through the front intake.

2. Many of the original Daytona Coupes had a rectangular opening in the rear of the hood near the windshield, maybe 4"x10". It seem that earlier Generations of the Type 65 had this as well. Is this an intake for carbs? Release for heat? Important? Does anyone have the dimensions, the correct location, or have recommendations for a particular aftermarket vent?

3. Does it make a difference to wrap headers? Once again, just for looks?

4. Is there a favorite footwell/cockpit heat/noise solution? There seems to be many adhesive material solutions, coatings, etc. Any recommendations?

I'm running a SBF 347 with a Holley 4 barrel and Boig Quiet Pipes/headers.

Thanks for the input.
Drew

Fan shroud is really only advantageous at low speeds, but shouldn't affect high speed cooling as the air will continue to flow through the fan opening.

The opening at the back edge of the hood was for air intake for the cars with the air box pan around the weber carbs, it uses the high pressure area at the base of the windshield to force air into the opening, sort of like the cowl induction hood scoop on the original Z/28's.

Header wraps can definitely make a difference in underhood temps, keeps the heat in the header pipes, and this also has the affect of keeping the exhaust velocity higher in the tubes as well.

Many many heat insulation types and everyone has their own way of doing it. The more insulation you can work in, the happier you will be when driving the car.

[Gbeck]

In addition to the usual stuff I found Dynamat's DynaDeck product to be especially effective against heat on the interior side of the firewall, tunnel and floor.

[edwardb]

My take, based on my Gen 3 with a Gen 3 Coyote and Gas-N headers and side pipes.

1. I have a shroud on mine and engine cooling is well controlled. Low and high speed. The Coyote is a generally cool running engine anyway. But no downside to using the shroud IMO. I recommend it.

2. No knowledge about that.

3. I haven't used wrapped headers on any of my builds including the Coupe. And haven't felt the need. No reason to question other reports that it lowers underhood temperature and apparently does provide a performance boost by keeping the exhaust temp high. But the potential for developing corrosion beneath the wrap, including mild steel and SS headers to some degree, is the major downside frequently mentioned. For my street driving purposes, I don't need the extra power (however much it is...) and I don't have any heat issues in the cockpit so not concerned about reducing the underhood temps. I don't have it on my SS headers, but apparently ceramic coating will reduce underhood temps as well, although maybe not as much as wrap.

4. Lots of good products. My build has a double layer of Dynamat heat and Second Skin Damplifier Pro sound on the firewall and footboxes. Then the sound and heat spray of Lizard Skin on the balance. Plus the kit provided carpet everywhere. I have zero heat issues. One thing to add on this point is to emphasize it's not just about insulation. It's also critical to make sure there are no air intrusions. Even a small amount of hot air from the engine compartment will feel like the heater is on all the time.

[drewr]

Thanks for the input. Those ideas are helpful.

If anyone knows the dimensions of the rear hood opening I refer to in the original post, I'd appreciate seeing them. I think I want to cut an opening like that in my hood.

Thanks,
Drew

[Ltngdrvr]

I think you're on your own as far as the hood opening.
Plus, I think there is bracing built into the rear edge of the Type 65 hood, probably better off not slicing into that, it wasn't designed for the opening you want.

[Chopper]

Probably a little more than you're looking for, but I saw this on the Factory Five website the other day. Not sure how the hood was reinforced in this case.

167482
167483

You can also see the inside of the bulge in a racing video, found here:
https://fb.watch/cbG8MBMgM2/

(source link: https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/factory-fives-racing-in-europe/)

[Rsnake]

The biggest issue I have with heat is that greenhouse size rear hatch glass. I broke mine and have been driving it without rear glass for about 6 weeks and notice a huge difference in heat. With the glass I couldn't touch anything in car as it was hot as hell after baking in sun for a few hours, not so bad without glass. I am going to install some the the ceramic window tint in the new glass and hear it should make a huge difference.

[David Williamson]

I had the hatch glass tinted and it does help, still hot but it is better
David W

[Rsnake]

David, That is what I was hoping to hear. Did you go with the new ceramic tint which is claimed to block a lot of the heat?

[dstelter]

Hey guys. I did mine with the ceramic tint. biggest problem is finding someone who can apply the tint with the complex curves and has the tint in a wide enough roll. Mine Coupe is not on the road yet so cant tell you how much it helps. My second options is to partition the rear off. but will wait to see if its needed or not. probably so living in south TX. Doug

[David Williamson]

yes it is the ceramic tint and it also looks good plus sort of hides items in the back from view
David W

[Rsnake]

Thanks David. I ordered some and once it arrives going to try it myself. How hard could it be?

[drewr]

Probably a little more than you're looking for, but I saw this on the Factory Five website the other day. Not sure how the hood was reinforced in this case.

167482
167483

You can also see the inside of the bulge in a racing video, found here:
https://fb.watch/cbG8MBMgM2/

(source link: https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/factory-fives-racing-in-europe/)

That's cool, but, no, I am just hoping to cut an 8" x 3" rectangle at the back of the hood bulge.

[drewr]

Thanks David. I ordered some and once it arrives going to try it myself. How hard could it be?

I put an Xpel clear bra on a Lotus Elise once. It's easy to get it 90-95%. Hard to get it perfect.

[Ron J]

I have a few questions to those who have tread this path before me:

1. Does the fan shroud make a significant difference? On one hand I can imagine that it improves the action of the fan, but on the other hand it seems it would impede air flow driven by the motion of the car through the front intake.

2. Many of the original Daytona Coupes had a rectangular opening in the rear of the hood near the windshield, maybe 4"x10". It seem that earlier Generations of the Type 65 had this as well. Is this an intake for carbs? Release for heat? Important? Does anyone have the dimensions, the correct location, or have recommendations for a particular aftermarket vent?

3. Does it make a difference to wrap headers? Once again, just for looks?

4. Is there a favorite footwell/cockpit heat/noise solution? There seems to be many adhesive material solutions, coatings, etc. Any recommendations?

I'm running a SBF 347 with a Holley 4 barrel and Boig Quiet Pipes/headers.

Thanks for the input.
Drew

I am running a Gen 2 Coupe with a SBF 347, Atomic EFI, power steering and air conditioning. After performing the following I have driven my Coupe in August in Sacramento, CA and have had it set in a parking lot during 100°F days. While it got toasty in the car, there was no surface, including the dashboard, that was too hot to touch.


Radiator Shroud: I have AC in my Gen 2 Coupe and found that installing a fan shroud is a must. Based on the cross sectional area of the radiator (353 sq in) and a 16”θ fan (201 sq in) only 57% of the radiator has air flow across the core when the car is stopped in traffic. The shroud forces air to flow across the entire core.
Radiator Fan: I installed a Flex-Wave Model 238 fan (3000 cfm) to increase air flow. I noted the air coming out of the fan was getting “jammed” up in the outlet ducting “trough”. Therefore, I ended up punching 13 ea 1⅝”θ holes in the ducting to relieve this back pressure. The addition of these holes also enabled air flow to enter the engine bay which I believe helps cooling somewhat. I installed a pair of air extractors in the hood as well.
Sound: Noico 80 mil 36 sq ft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening. I applied this product to all interior aluminum surfaces (footboxes, cabin, hatch area, etc.)
Heat: Noico Green 170 mil 18 sq ft Car Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material. I applied this product on top of the sound deadening mat in the foot box, side walls of cabin and the ceiling of cabin. All surfaces were then carpeted. I also used carpet for a headliner instead of the FFR supplied headliner.
According to Noico tech support, the Noico Green 170 mil Heat and Cool Liner should be used in conjunction with the Noico 80 mil Sound Deadening Mat for total heat and sound protection. The Noico 80 mil Sound Deadening Mat is applied to the substrate first, and then the Noico Green 170 mil Heat and Cool Liner is applied on top of the Sound Deadening Mat.
Ceramic Window FiIm: I had professional installation of Xpel Prime Plus ceramic tint applied to the windshield and hatch glass. Windshield had 70% tint and hatch glass 5% tint. The % refers to the amount of light allowed to pass through the glass. The hatch glass tint is so dark that it provides enough “security” to prevent looky-loos from sneaking a peek into the hatch area. The windshield tint is not enough to hinder visibility. The beauty of ceramic tint is its ability to block infrared and ultraviolet rays regardless of the amount of tint. That means 70% tint on the windshield blocks the same amount as the 5% limousine tint on the hatch glass.
Header Radiant Heat Shields: Fabricate aluminum radiant shields and wrap the surface that faces the header with Thermo-Tec Heat Barrier. The reflective surface of the barrier is capable of withstanding radiant temperatures up to 2000°F. The adhesive backed side handles direct and continuous temperatures up to 300ºF. I fabricated the shields for each header from 0.040” Aluminum. The shields were mounted to the headers using common muffler clamps. It is amazing how much radiant heat an aluminum panel will block.


Ron

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[Fbird]

What about cutting two vents into the rear trunk and letting them vent under the body. I think it would pull air through the cockpit and at least keep it circulating instead of sitting trapped under the rear hatch? I might try this with mine.

[John Dol]

In addition you can make heat shields for the foot boxes. This will help keeping them cooler.

John

[BigShooter]

I have a layer of kilmat on the inside of my footboxes, plus the FFR carpet. Is there a good product that could be added to the outside front of the footboxes (by the headers) to help block some of the heat?

[JohnMac]

[attach=config]172547
Here’s a photo of the first coupe at Simeon’s museum. The cutout in the rear of the spoiler helps to pull some of the hot air out of the cockpit. I’ve done some hot weather driving with our gen2 car without much cockpit insulation and I can tell you it’s like an oven!
It’s currently being painted so the body’s off the frame. Still trying to find the best solution.

[Chopper]

Not speaking from experience, but of what I've read of the coupe, due to the aerodynamic design you can't get much airflow through the cab without air deflectors on the A pillars to force the air in the windows instead of letting it naturally flow around the car.