Uh oh!

[ChicagoS]

While installing the IRS axle, we punctured the rubber. How big of a mistake did we make? Do we need to order a new one?

167264167265

[narly1]

Those rubber boots are what keeps the grease in and the water and dirt out, so yes.

Earl

[Ltngdrvr]

Yup, get a new one installed before going further.

[Jim1855]

They make a mess. Spinning at a few thousand RPM, the rotation will force the grease out, it goes places you couldn't imagine.
But most of us get a few miles in before a boot goes bad. Welcome to the club.
Jim

[edwardb]

Ford sells a boot repair kit. There's one for the LH side and one for the RH side. Ask me how I know... Includes two boots, straps, etc. required to replace them on one CV axle.

[Ltngdrvr]

Ford sells a boot repair kit. There's one for the LH side and one for the RH side. Ask me how I know... Includes two boots, straps, etc. required to replace them on one CV axle.

Most auto parts stores have them as well.
Stay away from the "Quick Boots" they're not for a permanent repair.

[ChicagoS]

Ford sells a boot repair kit. There's one for the LH side and one for the RH side. Ask me how I know... Includes two boots, straps, etc. required to replace them on one CV axle.

Thank you all for responding!

Edwardb, do you have a link or model number for the ford boots?

Also, is there a trick for removing the axle?

-Steve

[edwardb]

Thank you all for responding!

Edwardb, do you have a link or model number for the ford boots?

Also, is there a trick for removing the axle?

-Steve

My search shows Boot Kit - Passenger Side (RH) - Ford (FR3Z-3A331-C), Boot Kit - Driver's Side (LH) - Ford (FR3Z-3A331-D). Don't remember which one I had to buy. But it worked perfectly.

To remove the CV axle, remove the axle nut. Then take the knuckle/UCA/LCA apart enough to get the wheel end of the axle free. Then put a pry bar between the diff housing the CV joint. It should pop loose with minimal leveraging.

[Dave Tabor]

Please post how you change the boot/take the CV joint apart.

I have a cut boot after extended driving at 110+ mph.

Thanks,
Dave
Gen III #17

[edwardb]

Please post how you change the boot/take the CV joint apart.

I have a cut boot after extended driving at 110+ mph.

Thanks,
Dave
Gen III #17

Hopefully you need to replace the outer one? It's the easiest and the one I did. Remove the CV axle from the rear suspension, per my previous post. Cut the bands and the boot to remove. The outer joint is held in place on splines and a C-clip just like the inner end of the axle into the diff. With the axle in a vise, knock the joint off the axle with (ideally) a brass punch and hammer hitting on the inner race. Mine came off pretty easily. Then back together with the new boot. Lots of YouTube videos.

I have zero experience with them and don't even know if they're a good option. But there are aftermarket boots with a split joint and can be applied without taking the axle apart.

[Dave Tabor]

Hopefully you need to replace the outer one?

I have zero experience with them and don't even know if they're a good option. But there are aftermarket boots with a split joint and can be applied without taking the axle apart.

Hi Paul,

Yes, it it an outer boot- it appears to have rubbed against the coil-over spring, maybe as it ballooned out under rpm.

I had zip-tied around the inner boots on both sides but not the outers (I don't know why I did not do the outers)- I was going to put a GoPro on them to see what is actually happening as I did have some concern that the zip-tie edges may eventually cut into the boots as the boot flexes.

I did buy this and it came today:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-614-700-Drying-Adhesive-Select/dp/B07HQYVFH8

...and will try it as I have a HPDE track day planned in a week. I'll report back on how it works.

As I've got the open road rally bug recently, I'm planning on changing my IRS differential to a 3.15 ratio (swap the diff). When I do that, I plan to replace all the rear suspendsion rod-ends (got some play in a couple already and replaced one upper), maybe even new knuckles and I'll do the CV joint boots at that time.

I did find a YouTube video as you said- hammer the joint off the splines.

Why do we not hear of 2015+ Mustangs ripping up CV boots? It's such a bummer that these shafts are non-OEM or I'd just but a new pair.

Thanks!
Dave
Gen III #17

[edwardb]

...Why do we not hear of 2015+ Mustangs ripping up CV boots? It's such a bummer that these shafts are non-OEM or I'd just but a new pair.

Based on two builds with FF supplied CV axles, I've noticed the joints themselves are Ford parts. They have a Ford part number engraved into them. I'm assuming the same ones used on the Mustang? Can't confirm though. But the FF shafts are shorter. I had a complete Mustang IRS takeout on my Roadster build so an easy compare. So OEM axles -- or the many aftermarket possibilities -- aren't a direct fit.

[Dave Tabor]

I'm happy to report that the split boot linked below held up to a track day with max speeds at ~110 mph.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080DLLIY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I would not consider this a long-term fix but...in a pinch I'd run it (as I did).

The narrow end of the boot could have had one more 'step' in it that could be cut to make a slightly larger opening for the axle but it worked well enough. The big end was spot on.

I did not use the Dorman boot that I linked earlier- just a choice I made when I had them both sitting here.

I ordered all 4 new OEM boots from Tasca and I'll do them all or at least the outers- I need to replace all of my rear rod ends anyway.

I know that the FFR shaft lengths are non-OEM. This is too bad as new shafts are cheap...like OEM radiators which also would have been nice and I'm already doing that.

Dave
Gen III Coupe#17
13,750+ miles

[Skuzzy]

That is the one downside to the IRS choice. Those boots seem to need to be replaced every 10K to 20K miles. It is a shame FFR could not have used the stock axles.

[edwardb]

That is the one downside to the IRS choice. Those boots seem to need to be replaced every 10K to 20K miles. It is a shame FFR could not have used the stock axles.

Curious why these statements. (1) The boots are stock Ford OE parts. No reason they shouldn't last the same as production vehicles. Subject to the usual damage possibilities, etc. But they aren't inherently weak in my experience. Any more than they are on a Mustang or wherever used. (2) Stock axles would be much too wide for the FFR models where IRS is used. Combination of the dimensions of the vehicles and the wide wheels we use.

FWIW, FFR as offered IRS for many years now. The latest version for 7+ years. It was introduced with the 20th Anniversary Roadster, of which I had serial number 3. I drove it a bunch before selling it. My current Coupe with IRS only has 4,300+ miles, but no signs of any issues. Torn IRS boots are rarely discussed here. I can only remember a couple times, and often is self-inflicted. Like the one I had to replace. Completely my fault.

[Skuzzy]

Just call it my rotten luck. It is not from wear that they need to be replaced.

The axle length comment was just that. If the car had been designed to use the stock axle length it would be much wider.

[Dave Tabor]

Ya, and if FFR had used stock axle lengths, we all could have used modern-offset wheels, and forgo the hunt for deep-dish wheels and spacers. Ok, so we'd need longer control arms too- fine.

Next time I'm at the track I'll put a GoPro on a cv boot. I think that they balloon and rub against the springs- maybe they still balloon on Mustangs but there's nothing to rub- no idea, really.

Brass hammer is ordered, lol- I'll be getting good at boot changes.

Dave
Gen III #17

[Bob Cowan]

I used to tear mine up pretty often at the race track. Then, I learned some tricks.

1. Place a couple of zip ties around the boot. Gives it support, and keeps it from ballooning.

2. Only use half the grease that comes with the boot kit. All of the grease is too heavy.

3. Do not install the clamp on the small end. At high speed, the boot tends to twist, and then tear.

[lewma]

Ford sells a boot repair kit. There's one for the LH side and one for the RH side. Ask me how I know... Includes two boots, straps, etc. required to replace them on one CV axle.

Paul. Do you know what the difference is between the left hand and right hand sides? Boots look exactly the same to me

Thanks!
Mark

[edwardb]

Paul. Do you know what the difference is between the left hand and right hand sides? Boots look exactly the same to me

Thanks!
Mark

No, I don't know the difference. I don't think there is any, to be honest. Ford still lists the FR3Z-3A331-C (RH) FR3Z-3A331-D (LH) but based on pictures the boots look the same. Maybe there's a difference in the retaining rings or whatever? Honestly, I don't know. If you're replacing a boot and the new one looks like the old one I think you're safe. Can't add any more than that.

[lewma]

I looked at the part numbers stamped on all the boots and they're all the same. Rings and retainers also look the same. The only difference is I see is the amount of grease. I think the LH version had packets of grease, the RH version had plastic containers of grease.

[Dmac800]

Because I plan on running in the Silver State Classic when I get my Coupe built and some have had their CV boots rip, I decided to replace my boots before I put the axles in the car. I tried a few different Ford boots, that didn't fit, before I contacted The Driveshaft Shop. I finally got them rebuilt last night and the boots fit my axles.
I have attached the invoice from my order for reference.

214604