Accelerator Pedal and Throttle Cable

[ChicagoS]

I am trying to install the accelerator pedal and throttle cable but am running into a few problems.

First, the manual is inconsistent. Different pictures show the pedal assembled in opposite directions. Picture 1 has the Upper Arm on the left hand side of the Pivot Point. Whereas, Picture 2 has the Upper Arm to the right of the Pivot Point. Which is the correct setup?

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Second, where exactly should I mount the pedal to the frame? If I follow the manual the Upper Arm of the pedal assembly will interfere with the steering column.

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Third, the picture of the firewall in the manual is different from the panel that came on my car. There is no pre-drilled hole for the throttle cable. So I am afraid that if I mount the pedal in the wrong spot the throttle cable will rub against the steering column. Do I need to drill my own hole? If so, where?

I am pretty sure the picture in the manual is of the roadster build and not the coupe.

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[David Williamson]

It is tight but it will fit and you will have to drill new mounting holes for the pedal and cable. Some trial and error to get it to work. I think the frame mount is drilled for the coyote fly by wire pedal.
I used a linkage from Forte not a cable but the cable will fit.
David W

[ChicagoS]

Thanks David. Do you have a picture? I am trying to figure out some of the orientation. Also, did you put the steering column in place before you installed the pedal to make sure it fit?

[David Williamson]

Sorry no good pictures during the build, but yes put the steering shaft in and then fit the pedal. Mine was an early kit so things may have been changed but I ended up with the pedal mounted high.
You will find one of the key things with these builds is to locate the stuff that has a fixed location first and then fit the other minor items around them. Think a few steps ahead.

David W

[Dave Tabor]

To be clear: I would never tell anyone what/how to do anything on these cars.

But attached are some pics of what I did and it works well for me.

You can disassemble the pedal arm pivot and arrange the arms how you like.
You can also 'clock' the arms relative to each other.

I wanted maximum throttle pedal throw to allow the best chance of finely modulating the throttle (cable to carb).
I also wanted pedal heights of brake and throttle to allow heal-toe and that will be a personal preference.
So, I clocked the arms accordingly. The trick is to get the cable throw you need to achieve WOT at carb.

All of that said, I added a slight dog-leg bend to the upper pedal arm.
I also mounted the firewall pass-though ferrule to the steel around the steering shaft- I'd say that this is a must. Drilled my own hole and mocked the whole thing up with the steering bearing and shaft in place. I also had a mock (plastic) 302 block with the manifold and carb installed during the mock-up.

I did not use the FFR-supplied cable set but instead used a Lokar unit that has a clevis that makes a straight vs. offset throttle cable pull.

For what it's worth, my carb is also mounted backwards to minimize the curves of the throttle cable and housing.

I'd advise a heat shield tube/wrap for the throttle cable housing - twice I melted a housing at the track which resulted in a stuck open throttle. Good times.

This has worked perfectly for me for ~13,000 miles of hard driving but was one of the most painstaking steps for me in building this car.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.


Dave
Gen III Coupe #17
FRPP 302, Quickfuel annular booster carb'd, TKO600, 3.55 IRS

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[ChicagoS]

Extrememly helpful, thank you so much!