Hood Gas Struts and Door lubrication

[Blitzboy54]

I have my car back from paint. I will be updating my build thread later this week. One of the things Ron was fairly insistent on was NOT using the gas struts for the hood. He says it will create a bulge mid hood over time. Has anyone had this issue? Is this real or something that has maybe been corrected with the MK4? I prefer the look and function of the strut vs a prop rod but would not want my hood malformed either.

I would appreciate hearing others experience.

The other thing is the door latch. What do folks use as a lubricant in the latch assembly if any.


Thank you

Jesse

[edwardb]

The hinge geometry of the Mk4 hinge pushes straight back when closed. Not up. So I'd put that in the category of a myth. At least for the Mk4 I'm familiar with. The only caution is to make sure the strut isn't hitting against its limit when closed. Confirm the location of the ball attachment on the hood leaves some slack.

I recommend white lithium grease for the door latch. Doesn't need a lot. Probably other choices. But that's what I use.

[Blitzboy54]

Thank you Paul!

[Jeff Kleiner]

As Paul said the geometry makes it impossible for the struts to bow the hood with one caveat---if the hood brackets for the ball stud end of the strut are not located correctly the strut can bottom out and when the hood is latched it will indeed bow. Again, this is NOT due to the gas pressure. I always move the brackets about 1/2"-3/4" farther rearward to prevent this from happening. As for the door latches I lube them with dry graphite (and also remove the little coil spring but retain the plunger spring).

Jeff

[CraigS]

White lithium is fine. Just about any grease will work such as wheel bearing, silicone like SilGlyde, etc.
166809
The plunger (red arrow) is what needs lube so look inside the housing and put grease in and around the plunger. Also see the spring (black arrow) remove it. I trash them but you could hold onto it if you want to. The spring inside the housing is plenty to work the latch properly, especially after it has been greased. Having just the one spring will make the door close and latch much easier and it will make opening it by pulling on the lever much nicer also. These things can be a pain to get adjusted right but stick with it. You can spend 2 hours getting each one to work well but it will be worth it in the long run.

[edwardb]

...if the hood brackets for the ball stud end of the strut are not located correctly the strut can bottom out and when the hood is latched it will indeed bow. Again, this is NOT due to the gas pressure. I always move the brackets about 1/2"-3/4" farther rearward to prevent this from happening...
Jeff

What I was trying to describe in my post. But you did a much better job. :o

[j.miller]

Mk 2s& 3s , the stud plate on the hood needs to be 21.5 in from leading edge of hood to center of ball stud. Mk4 needs to be 22.5. and yes the problem is the hood closing the last few inches on a fully compressed shock...da Bat