HELP_ Informed opinion / input needed on a few questions

[mkassab]

I'm strongly considering the 35 Hot Rod Truck build. I've done kits and restomods before. I'm retired and considering the 35 truck as a replacement for my 2020 Ford Limited F150.... depending on the input I receive from all the "experts" here on this forum. We also own a 2021 Tiffin Phaeton motorcoach and I tow the F150 with four tires down on the payment behind the coach. My plan would be a Coyote 5.0 engine with Manual Tremec 6 speed.

1. I'm concerned with leg room. I live in Western NC 30 min's south of Asheville, NC. Does anyone know of a 35 Hot Rod Truck within ~100 +/- miles I could see and set in one? Maybe a ride in one? Any input and advice would be most welcome.

2. So I can still pick up "stuff" and minor hauling, I have a 1000lb hauling capacity utility trailer.... therefore, I'd like to install a towing hitch to the 35 truck.... tongue weight only a few hundred pounds and pulling =/< 1000 lbs for around town only (i.e., short trips to dump, Lowe's, etc). Anyone install a hitch? Any drawings or pictures

3. So I can tow 35 truck behind motor coach, I'd need to build some sort of tow bar attachment lice pictures below. 1st pic shows a complete connected tow bar and the 2nd pic shows 2 connectors (base plates) that the towed vehicle would need installed to be towed by the motorcoach. They detach when not in use. I think this would be pretty easy to install.


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[edwardb]

I'm 80-90% complete on a 35 Hot Rod Truck. Build thread linked in my sig line below. Can't help you with two of your questions. But this FWIW. How tall are you? Kind of standard thought is much over 5'10" is tight. Fortunately, I'm inside that height. Plus, pretty much like every build, seats make a difference. I'm having custom buckets built that sit up pretty high. It's a more comfortable position and helps with the legroom. There's plenty of headroom. Also, I chose to do automatic with mine. Partly because that fit my build plan and intended use. Plus the space for your feet is really tight. Not having a clutch pedal helps a bunch. With an accelerator, brake, and clutch pedal, the width of the footbox in the pedal area is basically filled. I love the Coyote. Have done two builds with them. But I assume you know that the Coyote in the truck (and Hot Rod...) is very tight and takes some special mods, like a different alternator, CMCV delete, etc. I chose to go LS3 partly for that reason, even though I know many don't agree with that choice. It fits comfortably.

[McGuyver]

I still have a ways to go prior to completion but I can assure you it won’t be near as comfortable as your F150. I agree with Paul, seats are important, I am squeezing in a set from a Miata. My son is 6’2” so I elected to cut and extend the cab 4”. Trailer hitch could be done but there is not a lot of structure back there to tie into. Plus the roll pan would need to be modified. Looking at mine I think 100 lbs tongue and 750 lbs max. Probably easier to just go rent a truck on occasion! The 33 hot rod is more roomy and I have seen folks fab some light duty trailer hitches.
I don’t think I have ever seen one flat towed. Most put on car hauler trailer.
Like Paul I am a big fan of the LS3.

[mkassab]

I'm 80-90% complete on a 35 Hot Rod Truck. Build thread linked in my sig line below. Can't help you with two of your questions. But this FWIW. How tall are you? Kind of standard thought is much over 5'10" is tight. Fortunately, I'm inside that height. Plus, pretty much like every build, seats make a difference. I'm having custom buckets built that sit up pretty high. It's a more comfortable position and helps with the legroom. There's plenty of headroom. Also, I chose to do automatic with mine. Partly because that fit my build plan and intended use. Plus the space for your feet is really tight. Not having a clutch pedal helps a bunch. With an accelerator, brake, and clutch pedal, the width of the footbox in the pedal area is basically filled. I love the Coyote. Have done two builds with them. But I assume you know that the Coyote in the truck (and Hot Rod...) is very tight and takes some special mods, like a different alternator, CMCV delete, etc. I chose to go LS3 partly for that reason, even though I know many don't agree with that choice. It fits comfortably.

Thanks for your response. I've been following your build tread. I'm 5'10", 190lb and inseam 32".... I do understand the 3 vs 2 pedal foot space. The kit I build before was a Unique Motorcar's 427 S/C cobra.... here's by build link: https://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?68-Mark-s-Build What's the impact of CMCV delete?

Thx again, Mark

[mkassab]

I still have a ways to go prior to completion but I can assure you it won’t be near as comfortable as your F150. I agree with Paul, seats are important, I am squeezing in a set from a Miata. My son is 6’2” so I elected to cut and extend the cab 4”. Trailer hitch could be done but there is not a lot of structure back there to tie into. Plus the roll pan would need to be modified. Looking at mine I think 100 lbs tongue and 750 lbs max. Probably easier to just go rent a truck on occasion! The 33 hot rod is more roomy and I have seen folks fab some light duty trailer hitches.
I don’t think I have ever seen one flat towed. Most put on car hauler trailer.
Like Paul I am a big fan of the LS3.

Flat tow is the only way to go with a motorcoach and not having to deal with trailer parking as camp sites.

Thanks for your response. Mark

[edwardb]

What's the impact of CMCV delete?

No big deal really. I haven't personally done it but witnessed many who have. Remove the vacuum motors, lock down the runners with widely available plates, and then adjustment to the tune so it doesn't throw codes when they're commanded and don't respond. For obvious reasons. A Coyote needs a custom tune anyway, so just a word to your tuner and should be simple. The performance difference in these builds is apparently minor if nonexistent. But just something to be aware of so that's why I mentioned it.

[NAZ]

I suggest you look closely at the truck chassis to determine how you'd build a tow hitch and an even greater challenge, attaching a tow bar. But your whole idea of flat towing a manual trans is not very practical. Unlike your F150 4X4, there is no transfer case to put in neutral. Flat towing a manual trans can cause damage from lack of lubrication unless you disconnect the driveshaft at the rear end and strap it up out of the way. Not very practical and at my age, that idea would be discarded immediately.

Better to trailer the truck.

https://tremec-blog.com/how-to-prevent-manual-transmission-damage-while-flat-towing/

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yep, as NAZ said, you can't flat tow a T-56 (or any Tremec equipped vehicle without a transfer case) with the driveshaft connected. Spinning only the output will not circulate lubrication.

Jeff

[mkassab]

I suggest you look closely at the truck chassis to determine how you'd build a tow hitch and an even greater challenge, attaching a tow bar. But your whole idea of flat towing a manual trans is not very practical. Unlike your F150 4X4, there is no transfer case to put in neutral. Flat towing a manual trans can cause damage from lack of lubrication unless you disconnect the driveshaft at the rear end and strap it up out of the way. Not very practical and at my age, that idea would be discarded immediately.

Better to trailer the truck.

https://tremec-blog.com/how-to-prevent-manual-transmission-damage-while-flat-towing/

Naz... thanks for your input.... as I wasn't aware the Tremec couldn't be put into neutral and towed. However, while reading the info from the link you provided, Tremec had a link (i.e., https://www.remcodsc.com/coupling/ ) that you can buy a drive shaft coupler that can be engaged/disengaged from inside the vehicle.... so problem solved.

Mark