Under carpet insulation/sound barrier

[emac]

My MKIV complete kit build is progressing faster than I had expected (so far). I have been very impressed with the manual, especially the photos. Only a couple of head scratchers and wtf moments. Only a couple of bolts I couldnt locate....brake resovoir mounts and master cylinder hose clamp to pedal box. My biggest fear, bending brake lines, turned out to be not so bad. After I kinked the first line! Otherwise everything has fit pretty darn well.

As I am waiting on my IRS, engine stuff to come in, I started looking a bit ahead. I have been researching various sound barrier and insulation for the interior. Hush mat, quiet ride (precut package, and several others. I cant touch and feel the stuff over the net and wanted to hear some first hand experiences of what worked well for folks. Thanks!

ernest

[Cameron Autosports]

I use Extreme Dynamat on all my builds. It will take two boxes. Cost about $450.00 to do all the cockpit, back of firewall and rear bulkhead. It will stop all noise and heat.

[AC Bill]

A couple of threads on this from this forum. There are tons more suggestions on the other site, regarding insulation.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?3825-Whats-the-best-way-to-insulate-your-your-engine-bay&highlight=insulation

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?2973-Insulation-for-sound-and-heat&highlight=insulation

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?581-Re-build-progress&highlight=insulation

[emac]

Thanks,I have read those threads, but I haven't checked the other site.

[luvaz]

Ernest, I retro-fitted this in my Mark 3 last year. One of the single biggest improvements in driving comfort! The 4' X 6' roll did most, not all of the interior. I pulled the seats and carpeting up from the trans tunnel & footboxes on both sides. There wasn't quite enough to go behind the seats, but I consider that a non-issue as the real heat transfer comes through the footboxes & trans tunnel. W/A coupon it was around $35!

http://www.jcwhitney.com/heat/sound-insulation/p2010475.jcwx?filterid=u0j1

HTH,
Will

[emac]

Jc whitney.....havent ordered from them in years. I used to love to sit and flip thru that catalog! I'll check them out.

[3kcarbon]

I just did mine but since the body is still off I can't say how much better it is. Its a no brainer, ya gotta do it. Don't get any product that is too thick. It will be harder to use and in some places you don't have much room to spare. I drove mine in Gelcoat during the summer with bare aluminum.You gotta do it...

[emac]

Ordered some from jc whitney, if i dont like it i may use it in my boat. Sounds like it will work fine, and the price is right. Thanks Will. My plan is to undercoat the panels under the car (not in the engine or heat areas), then sound/heat insulation under the carpet. Then maybe something thin and heat reflective on the outer foot boxes. Looking hard at the wheel wells sold by one of the vendors, but I have alot to do before I make some of those decisions.

Ernest

[Dennis C]

Check out Quadmat™, it is a 4 layer butyl sound deadener with closed cell nitrile foam insulation. Send me a PM or email from the web site and I will send you a sample to take a look at.

Dennis

[gwnorth]

I used Eastwood's thermocoustic insulation. It seems durable and I found it easy enough to install. One box just about does the interior.

[ksamson]

Hello, great post. Did you use any aluminum tape? I am about to purchase 2 4 X 6' sheets for my base kit. Any hints/suggestions is most appreciated.

[ehansen007]

Yeah, you could use the aluminum tape to seal the gaps but not sure it's needed. When you lay that stuff down side by side it does squish together. I had some from Home Depot that worked well. I can only imagine the markup on the dynamat tape! I used dynamat on the interior and hushmat for exterior parts I forgot to do. Hushmat is all black and works well in under the car areas like the trunk. Either way it totally works.

[buildit]

I used Lizardskin, both the sound and the heat barrier.

I liked it.

[Joe]

A $150 worth of FatMat off of eBay has worked fine for the last 20K miles and two years for me.

[willy]

Like Joe I got the fatmat off E-Bay was not that expensive, easy to work with doing a coupe so used more than the roadster but I put it everywere I could

[AC Bill]

In addition to the insulation, I added some 1/2" Dynaliner to the floor areas ahead of the seats. Makes the carpet a little more plush feeling, as well as reducing sound, and heat. It also lets the carpeting give a little when climbing in and out of the car, with less chance of tearing open a seam.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplayPopup?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&productId=763879&itemId=672950&langId=-1&showValue=1

[riebelt]

Check out Quadmat™, it is a 4 layer butyl sound deadener with closed cell nitrile foam insulation. Send me a PM or email from the web site and I will send you a sample to take a look at.

Dennis

Use the Quadmat! It great stuff! I used it on a Coupe I recently built. Easy to install. The sound deadner layer eliminates that step.

[FFinisher]

I use Extreme Dynamat on all my builds. It will take two boxes. Cost about $450.00 to do all the cockpit, back of firewall and rear bulkhead. It will stop all noise and heat.

This stuff is wicked expensive. it is really nice, but big bucks. I have sworn by FatMat for 6 cars and it is what I have in My own car.

If you have tons of money use the Dyna mat, If you are on a budget, Fat Mat works just fine too.

Fat mat will cost you about$160 for the whole car, cockpit, trunk, firewall with some extra.

[AC Bill]

Here's another thought for you..wish I had thought of it when building my interior..
You may want to add some padding to the tranny tunnel, under the carpet. I find my right knee rests against that area, and it can get a little uncomfortable after a time.