View Full Version : Bottom of bonnet (hood) well out of alignment
daxtojeiro
03-26-2022, 12:46 PM
Hi all,
the bottom section of my bonnet is sticking out quite a lot, I don't think it will sand down and I can't really build up the upper part.
Does anyone have any suggestions, do you cut it, move it in and re-fibreglass it?
164567
164568
thanks
Phil
cob427sc
03-26-2022, 01:55 PM
I think you will have to build it out on the low side to meet the contour. Is it like this on both sides? maybe the pieces shifted when it was bonded together.
daxtojeiro
03-26-2022, 03:34 PM
Hi,
thanks for the reply.
I think its too far out to build up anything without it looking really bad.
Its only out one side, but its 5 - 6mm at least.
Funny that no one thinks I should cut it, to me that's the easiest solution, but as no one has suggested it maybe I'm overlooking something.
This is the part thats sticking out too far, it starts just under the headlight and slowly gets worse,
164574
thanks
Phil
klawrence
03-26-2022, 03:39 PM
I cut my hood on the back of the hood below the latches to make it line up better...lil fiberglass resin, marine filler and mesh...all good. I used the west marine 105,205 and 404 . I think that is better then piling on the filler.
J R Jones
03-26-2022, 06:23 PM
Phil, That is a quality/workmanship defect hard to excuse. Yes cosmetically you are better fixing the lower section than blending the (proper) top section.
Build-up the inner surface adequately with mat/resin and grind down the outer surface. Getting the contour acceptable will be tough, but better below than above.
The FRP surface pores and exposed fiber will be a PIA. Luck to you.
jim
edwardb
03-26-2022, 08:02 PM
I think you will have to build it out on the low side to meet the contour. Is it like this on both sides? maybe the pieces shifted when it was bonded together.
They're not separate pieces bonded together. Amazing how often this comes up and people think that. It's a one piece layup. The difference is misalignment of the mold pieces. Obviously, could/should be a lot better. Mine was similar, although maybe not quite as bad. Also similar misalignment around the quarter windows behind the doors. Really bad there. My body shop fixed both with resin build-up then the usual body filler. Turned out perfect, but they did rack up the hours. :eek:
J R Jones
03-26-2022, 08:30 PM
They're not separate pieces bonded together. Amazing how often this comes up and people think that. It's a one piece layup. The difference is misalignment of the mold pieces. Obviously, could/should be a lot better. Mine was similar, although maybe not quite as bad. Also similar misalignment around the quarter windows behind the doors. Really bad there. My body shop fixed both with resin build-up then the usual body filler. Turned out perfect, but they did rack up the hours. :eek:
This demonstrates a basic difference between the Coupe and 818. 818 panels are cast from simple draft open one piece molds that task the builder with making 11(?) body parts fit together.
The Coupe uses a compound mold of several segments fastened together for lay-up and disassembled to release the part. SOP in other industries is to dowel pin or bolt mold segments together and fine tune joints if necessary while release waxing and applying release compound. Perhaps there is more than one set of coupe molds, and the segments get mixed between sets to create surface miss-match. Like with the 818, tooling issues complicate the assembly and finishing. Perhaps tool segments are damaged and the replacement tool segments are not duplicated properly. There is a reason for Que Cee.
jim
GoDadGo
03-26-2022, 09:08 PM
You can build it up with Fibertech and float over it with Rage Gold body filler.
Shown below is a really good proper use description video of all Evercoat Fillers:
https://youtu.be/tY3E0ztz8SY
Good Luck!
daxtojeiro
03-27-2022, 03:02 AM
Thanks for all the replies, I have a better understanding of it now.
I'm still confused as to why no one has suggested cutting it? At least the contour and the surface would still remain in tact if I did that?
In my head I'm thinking about this procedure:
1 - Cutting it along the join
2 - Clamping it where it should be
3 - Fibreglass it from behind using matt and resin
4 - FibreTech, etc to fill in the cuts
5 - Gold to finish it off
What do you all think? If it won't work then I will have to grind it down as suggested,
thanks again
Phil
edwardb
03-27-2022, 05:29 AM
Thanks for all the replies, I have a better understanding of it now.
I'm still confused as to why no one has suggested cutting it? At least the contour and the surface would still remain in tact if I did that?
In my head I'm thinking about this procedure:
1 - Cutting it along the join
2 - Clamping it where it should be
3 - Fibreglass it from behind using matt and resin
4 - FibreTech, etc to fill in the cuts
5 - Gold to finish it off
What do you all think? If it won't work then I will have to grind it down as suggested,
thanks again
Phil
You could. Your choice. Just have to decide what's easier. Fix in place or cut, repair, and still have to fill and shape to some degree. If left as is, you would grind down to some degree. But obviously have to watch the thickness. Mainly you would build up the other side to match. I guarantee you couldn't find where that existed on mine and nothing was cut.
J R Jones
03-27-2022, 08:21 AM
Thanks for all the replies, I have a better understanding of it now.
I'm still confused as to why no one has suggested cutting it? At least the contour and the surface would still remain in tact if I did that?
In my head I'm thinking about this procedure:
1 - Cutting it along the join
2 - Clamping it where it should be
3 - Fibreglass it from behind using matt and resin
4 - FibreTech, etc to fill in the cuts
5 - Gold to finish it off
What do you all think? If it won't work then I will have to grind it down as suggested,
thanks again
Phil
Phil, That is a solution, especially if the step is not large and/or long. The cut could be made with a high speed rotary disc.
A potential problem is that the panel forced into position will have a spring load, trying to get back to miss-alignment. Over time that spring load could result in a crack at the joint.
Judgement call for you to make.
If you do that I recommend fiberglass cloth on top of the mat at the repair for strength. I use epoxy exclusively for it's stronger physical properties, but a specific
"expert author" here disagrees.
jim
edwardb
03-27-2022, 08:58 AM
...but a specific "expert author" here disagrees.
jim
If that's meant for me, (1) I'm far from an expert. Just sharing my experience with this exact issue on my Gen 3 Coupe build. As I said. Which is what this forum is about. I'm actually very careful that I only post on things I've had direct experience with. Right or wrong. (2) Yes, I said what I did. But in my most recent post I said it was his choice. Whichever way he thought was easier. The builder always gets to make the final choice. (3) The quotes infer sarcasm. What's up with that?
If not meant for me, then ignore. :p
Jacob McCrea
03-27-2022, 09:30 AM
"I'm still confused as to why no one has suggested cutting it?"
Having done a good bit of fiberglass repairs on semis, cutting it would be my last choice. I would grind the outside down a bit, reinforce the back side as needed with 3M HSRF or other material compatible with vinylester, and split the difference, so to speak, with 3M HSRF or resin, then body filler on the outside - even if it involves re-countouring the arch of the fender lip a little. I would not cut a kerf in the body, because I doubt any repair would be as strong as the body is now. Of course it's not a structural part of the car but I don't like the risk of leaving it weaker.
J R Jones
03-27-2022, 01:20 PM
If that's meant for me, (1) I'm far from an expert. Just sharing my experience with this exact issue on my Gen 3 Coupe build. As I said. Which is what this forum is about. I'm actually very careful that I only post on things I've had direct experience with. Right or wrong. (2) Yes, I said what I did. But in my most recent post I said it was his choice. Whichever way he thought was easier. The builder always gets to make the final choice. (3) The quotes infer sarcasm. What's up with that?
If not meant for me, then ignore. :p
Paul, No not you. In a previous dialogue with extensive technical data supporting my recommendation, I was vanquished by the member that claimed to have "written the book" on that subject. As I have done before when faced with overwhelming wisdom(?), I deleted my comments and repaired to my closet to suck my thumb.
My earlier comment is in step with your recommendation.
jim
daxtojeiro
03-27-2022, 02:38 PM
Hi all,
thanks for all the answers, I decided to cut it. ;)
I'm glad I did as it sits where it should be without any force, so I think it will be OK as long as I can get enough strength in it.
I've put 4 layers of matt on it and have ordered some cloth to see if that can help, but right now it looks 100% better than it did.
thanks again for all your help!
164622164623164624
edwardb
03-27-2022, 05:31 PM
Paul, No not you. In a previous dialogue with extensive technical data supporting my recommendation, I was vanquished by the member that claimed to have "written the book" on that subject. As I have done before when faced with overwhelming wisdom(?), I deleted my comments and repaired to my closet to suck my thumb.
My earlier comment is in step with your recommendation.
jim
OK, thanks.