Remote Fuel Press Gauge?

[Theshandman]

Fellows, given a typical firewall installation location for a fuel pressure regulator, the pressure gauge directly attached to the regulator will assumedly be well under the body that overhangs the firewall thus making reading the gauge a bit tedious (I'm guessing). If so, is there any practical reason the gauge can't or shouldn't be remoted to facilitate reading it? Or, should the whole shebang simply be installed away from under the body? TIA.
Art

[OSU Cowboy]

I made a regulator bracket and secured it to the frame rail that runs along the edge of the hood on the passenger side such that the pressure gauge can be read there. Got three lines into the regulator - in from fuel tank; back to fuel tank; and into carb feed. As you know the gas lines are routed from the tank along the main frame rail on the passenger side, so they just come right up into the regulator on that side of the car.

Did similar mounting the brake / clutch fluid reservoirs on the drivers side - didn't want them buried up under the body cowl right off the firewall.

[ADI]

Honestly I believe this is a one time setup tool and an "very" rare checking point. not worth the additional connections IMHO. But if you really into it, I would add a sensor and a gauge or monitor by some electronic means.

[Jim1855]

An electronic gauge is easy, sensor in the regulator, wires to the dash/gauge.

A mechanical gauge uses a diaphragm and then anti-freeze to the dash/gauge. You don't really want fuel plumbed to the interior.

I run a mechanical gauge on the regulator and do check it when tuning or adjusting the carb. Fuel pressure may be of more concern with EFI.

Jim

[NAZ]

It's OK to locate a fuel pressure gauge remotely where it's easier to read and still within reach of the regulator. You can use hard line or my preference is SS braided hose and AN fittings. Fuel gauges on the regulator(s) are a must have to set the pressure. If you have an electric fuel pump, you must set the pressure with the battery charged and engine running as voltage changes affect pump output and pressure. Pumps don't create pressure, they create flow. Pressure comes from resistance to flow so you want the pump flow at the normal operating rate and that means that the voltage at the pump must be the same as normal running state.

But sometimes there is also a need for a fuel pressure gauge on the dash in addition to on the regulator.

On my drag racer I run fuel pressure gauges on the carb regulator and the nitrous system fuel regulator that I use for initial set-up & tuning. And I run a pressure transducer style electronic fuel gauge in the cockpit with a low pressure warning light and nitrous cutoff when the fuel pressure drops or AFR goes lean. On a run, the only two gauges I watch are the AFR & fuel pressure, these are what will hurt an engine faster than even low oil pressure. But I also have a low oil pressure warning light and ignition cutoff for a fail-safe.

But on my desert racer, I only run a pressure gauge on the regulator same as I do on similarly equipped street cars. The ECU monitors AFR and boost and will fault if the EFI can't maintain the fuel mapping and revert to limp mode and set a DTC, which is a fail safe. No need to monitor fuel pressure and my programmer is constantly monitoring fuel pressure and boost (among other variables) and recording them so I can check to ensure fuel pressure is modulating with boost as programmed.

But as mentioned above, if you need a fuel pressure gauge in the cockpit make sure it's not directly coupled to the fuel system at the gauge. You don't want fuel directed into the driver's compartment. An electronic gauge and transducer (sender) is the way to go on most cars.