Jim65 Gen 3 Coupe Build

[jim65]

After much deliberation (and getting my boat sold) I placed the order order for the 65 coupe 2 weeks ago (March 12). Went with the complete kit with the Coyote engine and IRS. I was planning to go with a TKX transmission but now considering a T56. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The shipping date is Nov 18, 2022 so I'm using that time to re-fresh my tools, organize my side of the garage, and look for places to store all the loose bits. I've been on the phone with the NY DMV several times over the last few months figuring out a plan for registering in NY so we'll see how that goes. You know what they say about plans.....

Jim

[edwardb]

I have the T56 in my Gen 3 Coupe with a Coyote. Like it very much. Positives? Easily fits the Gen 3 chassis. Nothing like putting a T56 in a Roadster. Shifts very nicely, although to be fair the upgraded shifting in the TKX is likely similar. I like having the two overdrive gears a lot. Probably one of the nicest features. With the TKX, which was similar to the TKO, you have to choose between .68 or .81. The .68 is nice for highway cruising. But not too much else, and a pretty big gap from 4th. The .81 is much nicer for in between cruising (50 - 65 mph), but engine revs start getting a little high for highway cruising. With the T56 you get both. Finally, I really like the reverse lockout of the T56. I have a speed sensitive module on mine that only allows reverse when stopped. Once moving, the shifter won't go into the reverse gate. Negatives? The T56 is about 15 pounds heavier, costs about $500 more, and for a Coyote, the only bell housing is a somewhat pricey QuickTime RM-8080. Pretty sure a cheaper aluminum bell is available for the TKX/Coyote combination. Obviously not a negative if you're planning a steel bell in either case. Good luck with your decision and build. Either is a good choice.

[jim65]

Thanks for the response on my transmission question Edward. This is exactly the feedback I'm looking for especially with the ratio selection the TKX forces you to make. The T56 is looking better and better.

[jim65]

My 65 coupe is still due from FFR in November 2022 and I've been continuing to prepare my half of the garage for the build. I'm planning to use a TKX transmission but having second thoughts about going with a hydraulic throwout bearing. Any opinions on cable or hydraulic out there?

[edwardb]

My 65 coupe is still due from FFR in November 2022 and I've been continuing to prepare my half of the garage for the build. I'm planning to use a TKX transmission but having second thoughts about going with a hydraulic throwout bearing. Any opinions on cable or hydraulic out there?

I’ve done all three and driven each extensively. My response FWIW.

Cable -- Simplest and cheapest. With smooth routing, and kept well away from heat (one of cable's big enemies) works fine. Early versions of the FF mod to the Wilwood pedal box for cable (now several years ago) had issues. The current one is fine. If you go this way, highly recommend replacing the generic cable FF provides with a genuine Ford clutch cable. Makes a difference. Needs adjusting as the clutch wears. Once per driving season or so.

External hydraulic -- Works OK and is the most common hydraulic setup. Most would agree, as do I, slightly smoother and a bit lighter pedal than a cable. Eliminates the issue of cable routing, which with some engines and header combinations, can be challenging. With the right combination of master and slave cylinders, can match the pedal throw to the available space in the footbox. IMO, a bit expensive for what it is. Like a cable setup, needs adjusting as the clutch wears.

Internal hydraulic TOB -- Have a Tilton branded unit in my Gen 3 Coupe. In its third driving season. Easy to install, cheaper than external hydraulic, by far the lightest pedal. Self-adjusting (like disk brakes) which is a really nice plus. I like it a lot and wouldn't hesitate to use again. They've been standard on production vehicles for years for several reasons. Having said that, I know many are hesitant because service and/or failure means dropping the trans for access. I get it. A risk. So far not an issue with mine. Time will tell. Assuming all is normal, the trans needs to be dropped eventually for clutch servicing. If it lasts at least that long, nothing lost.

What are your second thoughts about the internal hydraulic TOB?

[David Williamson]

I you go cable absolutely get a Ford cable the difference is huge.
David W

[freds]

I you go cable absolutely get a Ford cable the difference is huge.
David W


Agreed:
The long ''nipple" part of pass through of the FFR supplied cable broke off and jammed the cable so I was stuck on the road. Got towed home and replaced the cable with Ford OEM. I also added an adjustable firewall pass-through to eliminate having to get under the car to adjust the clutch. No problem since then.
fred

[David Williamson]

unless they changed the design from my early car the firewall adjuster does not fit the Gen 3 frame so you have to use the adjuster at the clutch under the car.
David W

[jim65]

I finally received my kit on Dec 15. I'll provide more details on my build config and inventory check later, but I have a question on the upper control arm dimensions. The manual calls out a starting dimension of 7.35" for the rear adjusting sleeve. The adjustment on mine is bottoming out a solid 1/2" longer than that dimension. I saw some posts from the MK group about cutting down the rear sleeve and the threaded rod. Just wondering if this is necessary.

[slarson]

I saw some posts from the MK group about cutting down the rear sleeve and the threaded rod. Just wondering if this is necessary.

I cut mine down as others have done. This also allows some adjustment if they need to be slightly shorter than the 7.35"

Scott

[edwardb]

I finally received my kit on Dec 15. I'll provide more details on my build config and inventory check later, but I have a question on the upper control arm dimensions. The manual calls out a starting dimension of 7.35" for the rear adjusting sleeve. The adjustment on mine is bottoming out a solid 1/2" longer than that dimension. I saw some posts from the MK group about cutting down the rear sleeve and the threaded rod. Just wondering if this is necessary.

I didn't trim the adjuster bolts on my Gen 3 Coupe build and was able to get the full PS caster alignment spec. Keep in mind those manual dimensions are just to get you into the ballpark until you're at ride height and get the actual alignment completed. Certainly nothing wrong with trimming them beforehand if you want. But my feeling is you have to loosen everything to do the alignment, so if you run out of adjustment, not hard to go ahead and remove and trim as needed. Not everyone will agree with that, I realize. And probably influenced by the fact I do my own alignment. But has worked for me.

[jim65]

I'm getting ready to install the center section and the rear suspension but I have a question on one of the aluminum panels for the forum. Is there an easy way to remove panel #17, which is part of the rear deck just behind the seats? I don't see any way to get it out of there without bending the crap out of it.

[Namrups]

You have to bend the crap out of it. The manual explains it well. You can bend the aluminum more than you think without damaging it.

[David Williamson]

the "T-6" hardened aluminum is like a spring and the hardest part with that piece of aluminum is getting it out without scratching the powder coating.
David W

[jim65]

Thanks Scott and David. I'll to get it out of there without destroying the powder coating on the frame.

[michael everson]

I cut it in half from front to back and make a connector to put it back together.
Mike

[Skuzzy]

I cut it in half from front to back and make a connector to put it back together.
Mike

That is what I am doing as well.

[jim65]

I installed the left CV axle this afternoon and discovered I tore the inner boot. Anyone have a part number and source for getting replacement boots? I've never replaced a CV boot before so any suggestions on fixing it would be helpful.

[edwardb]

Ford part numbers:

FR3Z-3A331-C Boot Kit - Passenger Side (RH)

FR3Z-3A331-D Boot Kit - Driver's Side (LH)

These OE kits include both boots (inner and outer), clamps, C-clips, and grease. I purchased one (RH) to repair a torn outer boot and it was pretty straightforward. The outer CV joints are splined and have C-clips. Just drive them off. The inner as a little more assembly and also splined with C-clips. Lots of YouTube videos. I've heard of repair style boots that don't require disassembly. But no experience with those.

[jim65]

Thanks edwardb. I came across those part numbers during my research but wasn't certain they were the correct ones, thanks for the confirmation. Got a left hand kit on order. I'm planning to install the right side of the irs today and this time I'm not going to tear any boots!!

[jim65]

For my coupe build, I'm using the standard issue front brakes and calipers from FFR. The manual does not call this out but should I be using loctite on the bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the spindle?

[jim65]

I'm knee deep into the chassis wiring of my coupe build with a gen3 coyote and I'm looking for input on the following question. Are there any drawbacks or issues with combining the alternator cable and the sending unit harness into one harness?