View Full Version : Input about my order, please!
I'm working on refining my MKiV order that's due for delivery in December. The order is currently for a complete kit with wheels, IRS, and a couple other things. To be honest, at that time I wasn't completely sure about all of the details. After a bunch of research (thanks in large part to this forum), I think I'm narrowing things down. A few notes:
My plan is a street build with maybe an occasional autox.
I'll be going with the Coyote/TKX drivetrain
This is not a budget build, but I'm constraining the initial FFR order to $25K, recognizing incremental costs along the way -- some very significant.
I have experience with smaller builds, but this is will be the largest and most involved thus far.
Here's what I'm thinking now, and I would really appreciate input. I'd like to minimize how many times I bug the FFR guys with order update requests. I'm leaning towards the Base Kit with new parts (no donor). I can appreciate why the complete kit is typically recommended, but this approach seems to meet my objectives. Plus I really enjoy hunting down parts and making choices. All this said, I'd appreciate input -- otherwise I wouldn't be posting this ;-).
Item
Base Kit
Complete Kit
Kit
14990
20990
Body Cut Outs
149
149
Tubular Front LCA
550
0
IRS
3199
2799
Coyote Headers
799
799
Coyote Power Steering Kit
1299
1199
Vintage Gauges
450
450
Vinyl Dash w/ Glove Box
280
280
Passenger roll bar
299
299
Roll bar grommets (2)
188
188
Electrical system completion kit
649
0
14850 2 pc spindle set
699
0
60175 drive shaft
410
0
16919 Wilwood pedal box assy
609
0
Coyote installation kit
599
599
Coyote engine mounts
200
0
25369
27752
I would still need the following core items, some of which would otherwise come with the complete kit.
Brakes (thinking Cobra brakes)
Rear diff, spindles, hubs
Power steering
Hydraulic clutch
Cooling system
Fuel system
Wheels / tires - both my college sons work for DT :-)
Chassis coating (doing this locally; I have a good shop)
Paint (seems like a lifetime away)
What do you think? What am I missing (besides my mind)?
I would recommend the FFR radiator as the foundation of your cooling system.
edwardb
03-20-2022, 05:40 PM
Not saying it's the wrong choice, but lots of guys have done the base kit non-donor build cost to the complete kit cost. Including posting very detailed spreadsheets. At the end of the day, it's typically a wash cost-wise. So I'd suggest there are probably parts missing from your list that are included with the complete kit. Reasons for going the base kit non-donor approach (I've done it twice) usually center around wanting different parts versus saving money. If that's you, then a good reason. Otherwise, I'd recommend the complete kit. Now that Factory Five is more willing to delete parts for credit (they weren't very flexible about this in the past) another option is to go complete kit and delete for credit the parts you know you don't want. Lots of choices... Good luck.
Not saying it's the wrong choice, but lots of guys have done the base kit non-donor build cost to the complete kit cost. Including posting very detailed spreadsheets. At the end of the day, it's typically a wash cost-wise. So I'd suggest there are probably parts missing from your list that are included with the complete kit. Reasons for going the base kit non-donor approach (I've done it twice) usually center around wanting different parts versus saving money. If that's you, then a good reason. Otherwise, I'd recommend the complete kit. Now that Factory Five is more willing to delete parts for credit (they weren't very flexible about this in the past) another option is to go complete kit and delete for credit the parts you know you don't want. Lots of choices... Good luck.
Thanks -- I've been keeping a list of things I'd probably want to delete from the complete kit, so it's good to know they're pretty flexible with that. I also realize that there are probably many complete kit items that aren't explicitly listed anywhere (except perhaps at FFR internally). That's actually one of my concerns... getting into the project and realizing that this bolt, nut, bushing, grommet, etc. would have been at my fingertips if I had ordered the complete kit. And of course that typically happens on a Sunday morning when nothing is open. I know there's more to it than just the core parts (calipers, etc.).
MB750
03-20-2022, 06:43 PM
One thing I'll add, after I got my build confirmation from F5 I asked them when I should fire off my changes. They asked me to wait until 6 weeks before build, so now I keep a list going on my computer of everything I want to change.
One thing I'll add, after I got my build confirmation from F5 I asked them when I should fire off my changes. They asked me to wait until 6 weeks before build, so now I keep a list going on my computer of everything I want to change.
Lol, they've probably learned that any change made earlier than that is bound to change again... and again...
You may want to try and find a built car that you can go see. It may be helpful to see various parts and pieces installed to see what you like or don't like. As I got into my build (complete kit) I found stuff from vendors that I liked better than the FFR stuff. Like the handbrake, battery box, metal coolant hoses, etc. I didnt end up changing many expensive things, but I do have a box of leftover stuff!
I cant imagine many first time builders not making a lot of changes during the build.
Jeff Kleiner
03-20-2022, 08:11 PM
I went through this exercise about 3 years ago with a Coupe build for a customer and the ONLY reason we were able to make the base kit + options work was because FFR was doing a 50% off sale on options at the time. When you actually start putting hard numbers to your list of what you’re calling additional “core items” I think you’ll be shocked to see that the monetary benefit has pretty much evaporated. You need to be looking at it all…for example when you say “brakes” that’s going to entail more than just calipers and rotors; you’re going to need all of the hardware, pads, hoses, banjo bolts and washers as well as a parking brake handle and cables plus a way to make it all work starting with a pedal box and master cylinder (or cylinders if you opt for a Wilwood box). Another is “fuel system”. That’s not just the tank; it’s also the cover, the straps, the fill tube and it’s grommet, the vent/rollover valve and grommet, the pump hanger and pump, gauge sender and lock rings, even the nuts and bolts to hang the whole works into the chassis. Nickels and dimes turn into real money real easily! That’s all stuff that is included with the complete kit. Don’t want to discourage you, just be sure that you’re looking at the big picture and all of the details that make it up.
Good luck whichever way you decide to go!
Jeff FFR
And all of those little nuts and bolts you will need to source will require shipping, which isnt cheap these days!
CraigS
03-21-2022, 06:26 AM
You can get your rear brakes for free if you use a salvage yard IRS and are sure to get one w/ the OE brakes.
MB750
03-21-2022, 08:19 AM
I went through this exercise about 3 years ago with a Coupe build for a customer and the ONLY reason we were able to make thevase kit + options work was because FFR was doing a 50% off sale on options at the time. When you actually start putting hard numbers to your list of what you’re calling additional “core items” I think you’ll be shocked to see that the monetary benefit has pretty much evaporated. You need to be looking at it all…for example when you say brakes that’s going to entail more than just calipers and rotors; you’re going to need all of the hardware, pads, hoses, banjo bolts and washers as well as a parking brake handle and cables plus a way to make it all work starting with a pedal box and master cylinder (or cylinders if you opt for a Wilwood box). It’s all stuff that is included with the complete kit. Don’t want to discourage you, just be sure that you’re looking at the big picture and all of the details that make it up.
Good luck whichever way you decide to go!
Jeff FFR
That's an extremely good point. Back when I worked for a generator vendor I dealt with a lot of major electrical contractors. While the EC's were masters at pinching pennies, they also favored the "one throat to choke" philosophy when it came to buying a stand-by power system. We would often lump many ancillary items up into our bid in order to make it more convenient to the EC so they only had to go to one location with their related issues. I did the same thing (only in the other direction) with my Roadster order in the form of a complete kit. Yes I spent more, and I had a 95 Mustang GT donor, but most of the 95 went back to the scrap yard since a lot of it was in bad condition, nor did I want to refurbish many of the necessary components for a base kit. As well as having to source many of the ancillary items like you mentioned on my own. I wanted as much NEW as I could get, as conveniently as possible.
Thanks everyone for taking time to respond and provide helpful input -- there are a few points I hadn't really thought of. I'm definitely not a penny-wise-pound-foolish person, so I may need to reconsider my options. Fortunately I have time to do that.
Blitzboy54
03-21-2022, 11:40 AM
You have a delta of $3,117 of parts that come with the complete kit that you are planning on an outright purchase. For the other stuff that you still need.
I would still need the following core items, some of which would otherwise come with the complete kit.
Brakes (thinking Cobra brakes) - Comes with the kit (depending on what you do $1800)
Rear diff, spindles, hubs
Power steering
Hydraulic clutch
Cooling system - Comes with the kit ($800)
Fuel system - Comes with the kit ($1200)
Wheels / tires - both my college sons work for DT :-)
Chassis coating (doing this locally; I have a good shop)
Paint (seems like a lifetime away)
That's a difference of just under 7k
By my back of the napkin math you are actually better off buying the complete kit then selling any parts off you don't ultimately use. This doesn't include all the little nuts and bolts as well as things like the hood hinges and what not. Even if you plan to make changes I think you are better off with the full kit.
That being said I look forward to following your build either way!
You have a delta of $3,117 of parts that come with the complete kit that you are planning on an outright purchase. For the other stuff that you still need.
I would still need the following core items, some of which would otherwise come with the complete kit.
Brakes (thinking Cobra brakes) - Comes with the kit (depending on what you do $1800)
Rear diff, spindles, hubs
Power steering
Hydraulic clutch
Cooling system - Comes with the kit ($800)
Fuel system - Comes with the kit ($1200)
Wheels / tires - both my college sons work for DT :-)
Chassis coating (doing this locally; I have a good shop)
Paint (seems like a lifetime away)
That's a difference of just under 7k
By my back of the napkin math you are actually better off buying the complete kit then selling any parts off you don't ultimately use. This doesn't include all the little nuts and bolts as well as things like the hood hinges and what not. Even if you plan to make changes I think you are better off with the full kit.
That being said I look forward to following your build either way!
Those are probably pretty accurate numbers, thanks. BTW, I've been following your build and can't wait to see the end result! Nice work.
JeffP
03-21-2022, 04:28 PM
I realize ff suggests waiting until 6wks out but also consider any changes you make today will be locked in at todays prices. Changes you make in November are likely going to cost more.
I realize ff suggests waiting until 6wks out but also consider any changes you make today will be locked in at todays prices. Changes you make in November are likely going to cost more.
Oh great point!