Ted G's 427 Cobra Build #10333 - 5000 Miles In

[Ted G]

Click Here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?42435-Ted-G-s-427-Cobra-Build-10333-Aluminum-Spats&p=563319&viewfull=1#post563319) for my latest post "5,000 Mile Upate"


Well, with about 2 weeks out from delivery of my roadster, I decided to finally start my build thread.

I have been watching, dreaming, persuading and planning this build in my mind for over 15 years. Why didn't I pull the trigger 15, 10 or 5 years ago? Divorce, kid's college funds (3), career changes, etc, etc .... But on September 11, 2021, I pulled the trigger and sent in my down payment. As an Army Veteran, it just seemed timely to place my dream order on this day, 20 years after 9/11. Although waiting 7 months has been tough, I am actually grateful for the wait; it has given me time to really think about the decisions about for this car and what I really want. I have made some significant changes to the order, received tons of tips, and have had time to prep my "garage" and sort out a build plan.

My first order had almost every upgrade from FFR you could think of. But with the supply channels affected by several factors in the world, I found myself constantly changing my order, upgrading some parts, and purchasing early to avoid a plethora of backordered parts. I already started working on some items I outsourced for the past few months with things like Wilwood brakes, my IRS rear end, and of course the "Crib" she'll be built in for the next year or so... some of you call that a garage.

I have never built a car, but have always worked on, tinkered with and been a car lover. My current everyday driver is a well upgraded Jeep JK Rubicon; yes, I do the Jeep wave all the time. I did all the modifications to my Jeep, but never built something like this. I have been lurking in this forum for the past 8 months waiting on my car with much anticipation. Thank you to all the great guys (and girls) who provide so much knowledge and help all the time. I also am part of a great bunch of Cobra guys (CSX, FFR, Superformance, Backdraft) here in the Sacramento area and we attend Cars & Coffee almost every Saturday morning. The Factory Five community, as well as the Cobra community, is why I decided on a Factory Five Roadster.

Enough about me, here is my build specs so far: (updates in red)

Factory Five Final Order:

MKIV Complete Kit
Body Cut outs
IRS w/Complete Kit
Battery Cut Off
Heater/Defroster (no defroster)
Black Leather Seats
Trunk Gas Strut Kit
Carbon Fiber Dash w/Glovebox
Uncoated Chassis (went with Ford Blue)
Deletion of Headers
Deletion of Side Pipes
Deletion of Gauges
Deletion of Manual Steering Rack
Military Discount - $500


Aftermarket Orders:

FF Metal - Trans cover (in leather) & Forward Firewall
Breeze - Cubby
Breeze - Radiator Shroud & Lower Radiator Mount
Breeze - Upper Hinged Radiator Mount
Breeze - Seat Adjuster
Breeze - Offset rack & spacers
Breeze - 1.75 Roll Bar
Russ Thompson - Turn Signal Kit
Russ Thompson - adjustable gas pedal
Russ Thompson - Drop Trunk and Roll Bar Grommets
Finish Line - Side louvers, emblems, center cap, grommets, vent screens,
Gas-N - Side pipe in brushed nickel
Gas-n - Headers for 351w bare
Forte - Mechanical Throttle linkage
Forte - Wilwood Brakes 12.88" - Red
Forte - IRS Center section and spindles
Forte - Front Sway Bar
Metco - Driveshaft Safety Loop
NRG - Carbon fiber steering wheel quick release
Speedhut - Custom colored gauges (to match body color & stripe)
ESR - 18" wheels CS-11
Summit - Helix Power Steering Rack
Various other parts from Summit, Amazon, Herb's, e-bay


Engine, Transmission & Paint:

Motor - 351w stroked to 427 Elliot Franklin, Grass Valley, CA
Motor - CVF front end, polished
Motor - CVF custom valve covers
Trans - TKX - Elliot Franklin
Body work - Ken's Custom Auto Body
Paint - Ken's Custom Auto Body
Powder coat - some panels and chassis
Color??? Who Knows (going with Porsche Night Blue Metallic and GT Silver Metallic stripes)


I'll be doing all the normal things and upgrades that most do, including sound/heat insulation, powder coating some things; polishing others, brake cable upgrade, Kliener mod, heater mod, etc. I do plan on doing a unique gauge layout, unique chassis color and a few "me" mods.

I'm also thanking everyone in advance for all the help I know you'll provide. I promise to pay it forward down the line.

Here is my obligatory cradle pic:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163944&d=1647302212

Ted Greenman
Build #103?? I'm guessing #10327 (I was close, #10333)

[Mark K]

Congrats on the new thread, brother. Looking forward to it.

164105

[Vspeeds]

Looking forward to following your journey. Give us a shout if you ever need anything.
Eddie

[JohnK]

Hey Ted. Congratulations on the impending delivery. What an exciting time! I'm sure the anticipation must be killing you. Sounds like you have a great build plan.

I'm a little ways away from you in Los Gatos, but I have a free body buck available if you're interested.

Can't wait to see your build updates.

-John

[Fman]

Congrats Ted, you are in for one awesome journey. If you ever need anything please reach out. We are all looking forward to watching your build progress.

And thank you for your service to our country, we all greatly appreciate it!

Travis

[Ted G]

Hey Ted. Congratulations on the impending delivery. What an exciting time! I'm sure the anticipation must be killing you. Sounds like you have a great build plan.

I'm a little ways away from you in Los Gatos, but I have a free body buck available if you're interested.

Can't wait to see your build updates.

-John

Thanks John for the offer of a body buck. I received one from from a friend (Dave) in this area about a month ago.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Ted. Congrats on your upcoming kit arrival. You have an impressive build list. It should be one sweet build! Glad to hear you are already so connected with the local Cobra crew, and here on the forum as well.

[Ted G]

Thanks Chris! I have been following your build and it looks impressive!

[CaptB]

You may want to include Forte's throttle linkage, didn't see it in your list but I may have missed something. Welcome to the circle of trust for 427 builders!

[toadster]

woo! exciting times!!

[Ted G]

You may want to include Forte's throttle linkage, didn't see it in your list but I may have missed something. Welcome to the circle of trust for 427 builders!

Yes, I missed that but already in my inventory. Thanks

[Ted G]

8 months of waiting for delivery has let me prep, organize and plan the garage layout. I started with prepping the floor and laying down an epoxy coating. Then paint, extra shelving, and a plethora of banners, signs and flag for decoration. My daughters helped paint the stripes on the wall and the chassis dolly. I also added electrical outlets and ample lighting. I also have a Jeep and I can take the top off with a lift... I'll use this lift to store the body until I'm ready to take it to Ken Pike for body work and paint.

I also added a 2,000 lb winch that will allow me to raise up the chassis and work under when I need to during assembly.

Here is a little video I did and pictures below: https://youtu.be/HrMUBIAu8-o

Adding electrical:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164231&d=1647733422

Epoxy coating the floor:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164233&d=1647733422

Almost ready:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164234&d=1647733688

The winch and more electrical and lighting:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164238&d=1647734472

My daughter's birthday card to me.... Yea, she thinks I'm old.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164229&d=1647733422


Ted

[ydousurf]

Ted,

Looks like you have a really great build planned! I think if one can get a preliminary sense of your future success, then we only need to look at your garage preparations. Nicely done!

I'm a Jeeper and always a appreciate a fellow - {Peace Sign}.

The card was really cool and sweet of your daughter. It will be extra special having family involved to help build your dream together.

Anyway, make sure to video tape the delivery day. That was such a magical moment for me and the entire neighborhood for that matter. All the best on you build journey. I'll be following along...

Doug

[Ted G]

Build before the build....

During the past few months, I worked on my garage and strategically ordered some items that kept showing up on back-order in other's build threads. Wilwood brakes seem to be months out all the time along with IRS parts, Front UCA's and a few other things. Thanks to Mike Forte, I was able to pick up my set early and at least get the safety wire completed pre-delivery of my kit. I also had Forte deliver my IRS center and spindles.
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I completed the wilwood hats on all four corners with the safety wire:
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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163475&d=1646584908

I also applied POR-15 to the center section as well as smoothed out the mold lines from the rear knuckles for a clean look. I personally love the Ford Blue with Silver:
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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163431&d=1646506370

I have Elliot Franklin building my Motor (427 Dart), but I am dressing it my way. Here are my valve covers from CVF that I had to customize with a 427 badge. Some of the older CSX's had this badge on the covers:
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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163446&d=1646507361

This was just my start before delivery.

Ted

[460.465USMC]

Hi Ted. Isn't POR-15 amazing stuff? Messy, but seems to me to be a very high quality coating. You raised the bar with the Ford Blue. Nice!

Nice bling with the valve covers!

[Ted G]

Hi Ted. Isn't POR-15 amazing stuff? Messy, but seems to me to be a very high quality coating. You raised the bar with the Ford Blue. Nice!

Nice bling with the valve covers!

Yes, POR-15 is great and I love the way it spreads evenly. I was very skeptical about brushing paint onto metal.... but no brush strokes. Thanks for the compliments Chris, and thank you for your service!!

[JB in NOVA]

Wow Ted, your set up is impressive, and your project seems very well planned. I'm looking forward to watching your build!

[Ted G]

Wow Ted, your set up is impressive, and your project seems very well planned. I'm looking forward to watching your build!

Thank you sir!

[Ted G]

Well, Stewart Transport pushed me back again. I guess I'm the second to last on the truck and they think this coming Saturday I'll have delivery. Not complaining about Stewart, just so anxious to get started. A couple of things happened last week. I finally ordered my custom gauges from Speed Hut and had a very interesting/strange interaction with them. So, now I'm just going to wait and see how the final product looks before I either praise them or not. The selection of my gauges has solidified the general paint scheme of my build which is really such a relief. I'll be going with some sort of very dark Blue with some sort of Silver stripes with pinstripes. Suggestions are welcomed!!

Not sure who owns this, but I love this color scheme:
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I've also received my wheels. Although I love the Halibrands, I just wanted a different look and went with these ESR CS11's. They are 18x10.5 and 18x8.5.
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This past weekend, I played around with a dash template that someone from my C&C group gave me. Although I am going with a Carbon Fiber dash, this helped me get an idea of how I want my layout. I'm going a little unconventional... I ordered a larger 4 1/2" tach (instead of the 4") and the water and oil temp gauges are 2 5/8" rather than the 2 1/16" standard. They are custom color and I centered the speedo in dead center of dash along with volt, fuel and oil psi. The gauges will closely match my color scheme with the silver stripe in two of them. I printed the gauges to actual size and placed them in position. Obviously I'll have some switches, turn indicators, start key, etc. but you get the idea:
164695

Saturday seems so far away !

Ted

[Ted G]

Call from Stewart Transport

Delivery day is tomorrow afternoon! It has been a long 7 months! I'm sure I'll get little sleep tonight and go figure; I have a huge meeting tomorrow morning.


Wait, am I being "punked"? Tomorrow is April Fool's Day. :confused:

[JB in NOVA]

Call from Stewart Transport

Delivery day is tomorrow afternoon! It has been a long 7 months! I'm sure I'll get little sleep tonight and go figure; I have a huge meeting tomorrow morning.


Wait, am I being "punked"? Tomorrow is April Fool's Day. :confused:

That would be too cruel for an April fool's joke! Good luck!

[CABulldog]

I am guessing yours was the El Dorado Hills kit I saw on the truck while he delivered mine this morning. Have fun building.

James

[Ted G]

I am guessing yours was the El Dorado Hills kit I saw on the truck while he delivered mine this morning. Have fun building.

James

Yes, I'm guessing yours was the San Jose Kit..... Enjoy!

[Ted G]

Delivery on April Fool's Day

Chassis number 10333 was dropped off today. Months and months of waiting, prepping, buying, and changing decisions finally comes home. Chassis # 10333 is here!

Mark from Stewart was a delight and worked hard to get the truck in front of my house. The small streets were just another challenge.
164899
164900164901164902164903

Found the manual:
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and the chassis number:
164905

I already started working through the inventory. POL is pretty big, but no real major stuff that I can see at this point. Big items on POL were dashboard, windshield, gas tank and various bolts, and thing I may not need for a while.

Ted

[CABulldog]

Yes, I'm guessing yours was the San Jose Kit..... Enjoy!

Yes that was me, Mark was awesome, I honestly did not think it was possible to get an 18 wheeler on my street. It requires a blind side reverse in off a busy street. I held traffic for him and he made it look easy. Mine is build number 10323. Still have not decided if I am going to do a build thread here or not, I am not very good at keeping up with them :). Ironically I was originally due to be in the Elk Grove area yesterday/this weekend but other stuff ended that one, which turned out perfectly. Once these cars are both done we should arrange a meet at a cars and coffee.

164914164915

[WIS89]

Ted-

Congratulations on the delivery! I remember getting my roadster like it was yesterday -- although I won't tell you how long ago it was...

I also have been meaning to tell you that I love the garage layout you have; the racing stripes really help! I may have to steal that idea when my garage gets done.

Congrats again, and I look forward to following along! Also, so happy that it wasn't a nasty April Fool joke!!

Regards,

Steve

[Ted G]

Yes that was me, Mark was awesome, I honestly did not think it was possible to get an 18 wheeler on my street. It requires a blind side reverse in off a busy street. I held traffic for him and he made it look easy. Mine is build number 10323. Still have not decided if I am going to do a build thread here or not, I am not very good at keeping up with them :). Ironically I was originally due to be in the Elk Grove area yesterday/this weekend but other stuff ended that one, which turned out perfectly. Once these cars are both done we should arrange a meet at a cars and coffee.

164914164915

Hey James,

We are 10 cars apart. I have another friend who go his car two weeks ago and is #10327. Weird he got his before yours. Yes, we should get together after build if not before. We have a great group out here in the Sacramento area.

Ted

[Ted G]

Ted-

Congratulations on the delivery! I remember getting my roadster like it was yesterday -- although I won't tell you how long ago it was...

I also have been meaning to tell you that I love the garage layout you have; the racing stripes really help! I may have to steal that idea when my garage gets done.

Congrats again, and I look forward to following along! Also, so happy that it wasn't a nasty April Fool joke!!

Regards,

Steve

Hey Steve,

Thanks for the compliment... that was my two daughter's idea. It was a great April Fool's day!!

[Ted G]

Day three since delivery.

I worked on getting the body off and maybe some aluminum. Thank you to my daughter Capri and the neighbors who helped me remove the body. I think they are excited as I am... well almost.

Here are the first pics with the body removed:
165009165008165010


Then I tackled the aluminum and even drilled out some of the panels around the footboxes.
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This was way easier than I thought and really gave me a good sense of what my plans for the chassis will be. I plan on doing a few minor modifications to the frame before paint. Mainly in the rear for the battery and the drop box mods and of course cutting off the extra tubes where the Breeze radiator mount will reside.

Overall, a pretty productive weekend... To bad work will get in the way this coming week.

Ted

[Ted G]

A pretty productive weekend on #10333.

The bare chassis came in pretty dirty and needed a lot of prep for coating. Oils used for cutting and drilling and all the shaving from grinding, welding, etc. needed to be cleaned up quite a bit. I also did a few minor mods to the trunk area where I am putting Russ Thompson's drop trunk. I am also making room for a battery box just behind the RT drop box in front of the IRS center section. Here are a couple of pictures of that mod at this point. Mind you, I will be customizing some panels for the battery box and drop box that I'll show later during the build. You can see that I cut the cross members, but reinforced the trunk area with more tubing.
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I started with a pressure wash with a degreaser. That definitely took off about 90% of all the grime. Then I started to wipe everything down with degreaser... after two are three wipe downs, I felt it was a clean as it could get. I then used POR's metal prep to essentially etch the metal prior to paint. I know I may get some slack from this, but I am painting my chassis a custom color rather than having FFR powder coat it black. I also heard several stories of so much weld splatter, that I wanted to avoid that. But honestly, FFR did a great job getting most of the splatter off. A local shop quoted me $2,000 to powder coat it so I opted to paint my chassis. Here are some pics of the primer coat. I used Self-Etching primer as I have had great luck with my Jeep using this process.
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I love my version of a poor man's lift. I can easily get under or just tilt to get a better weld... my upside down welding technique isn't the greatest and it can hurt/burn.
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Primer completed:
165343


This week I hope to have the chassis completed in Ford Blue and start my build next week. Aluminum panels (about 75%) are currently at the powder coater; I'll have them in Silver Vein.


Ted

[Ted G]

Factory Five created a piece of artwork with this frame:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165333&d=1649702966

[toadster]

great job Ted! looking good! what primer/paint are you using?

[Ted G]

great job Ted! looking good! what primer/paint are you using?

Self etching primer rattle can..... For the top coat, it'll be Farm/Implement paint in Ford Blue with a little combination of POR15. Just got word that my powder coater is done with the aluminum panels and I'll pick up tomorrow. I can't wait to officially start building.

[Fman]

Nice work Ted on the drop trunk mod, that will be much cleaner and more functional not having that cross member. You can probably also squeeze in an extra pair of socks with that now!:cool:

[Ted G]

Thanks Travis, I think the battery location mod will be pretty cool too. Just a personal preference on having it in the trunk with little, if any loss of trunk space. My welding technique was not as rusty as I thought.

[Ted G]

Good weekend with some fabrication in the trunk area for the Russ Thompson drop box and redesigned battery box. The reason I'm doing this before chassis paint, is that fabricating this box requires a lot of manipulation with the aluminum panels and I wanted to avoid scratching the final paint. Both the drop box and battery box are now completed and I pulled it all out for later installation after chassis paint. I'm a bit delayed on some POL parts, including a few bushings for the IRS and fuel tank, so I'll have to work on other things like fuel lines, etc. My plan is to get as much of the build done with as little aluminum panels installed as possible.

I've already posted a couple of these pics, but thought I'd include them all with the finished product.

Here is the chassis reconfiguration in the trunk:
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Then, I moved onto redesigning the RT drop trunk back wall to include the battery box:
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I will likely add a hinged door to cover the battery, but here is the final product:
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Also, very excited to get a delivery from Speedhut this past week!!!! I had a very strange interaction with them and was very worried what they would end up looking like... but in the end, I think they are beautiful! Now if I can just get my CF dashboard (on POL). This may give you some insight to what my final paint will look like (some sort of dark blue with silver stripes):

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Chassis paint should be next in this thread. Meanwhile, I'll work on pre-drilling some of the panels that just came back from powder coat, and polishing the engine bay panels.

Ted - #10333

[CaptB]

Like the guages. Speedhut is awesome.

[Ted G]

CaptB, yes they are awesome, but my experience with them was really weird.

The sales person was so unhelpful and said I could not do what I wanted to do (color of the gauges). She said I could only have a "logo" on them and had to use their colors on the background (even though the software allows you to add your color as a jpg). Then, she said that I could not do stripes on the speedo or fuel level either. When I said that they had stripes as an example on their website, she claimed it was a mistake and they could not do that anymore. I asked if I could speak with the person in the art department, she said we don't let them speak with the public. This was just so strange!! So I agreed with their color background and doing just logos.

Finally, in the end, the person in the art department sent me my proofs. We had a to make a little change and then I asked the art person if I could do a navy blue background... and she said no problem. Then, I asked if I could add stripes and I have the artwork for them... She promptly sent me back with proofs with everything I wanted!! What the heck?

Seems the sales person didn't know much, but the art person was friendly, accommodating and gave me complete customer satisfaction. I am very happy with my gauges after all that.

[AgileYeti]

Ted, I am not sure which is better, your trunk mod or them gauges! Both are stellar for sure. Having that extra trunk space and removing the cross bracing is going to be awesome for storage; I'm jealous. You are making this car your own and it is coming out great so far! I received my first POL box yesterday so I bet you will have some goodies arriving soon too.

[zee]

Ted, I am not sure which is better, your trunk mod or them gauges! Both are stellar for sure. Having that extra trunk space and removing the cross bracing is going to be awesome for storage; I'm jealous. You are making this car your own and it is coming out great so far! I received my first POL box yesterday so I bet you will have some goodies arriving soon too.

I am not speaking from the place of knowledge, so this is merely a curiosity: is there a downside to removing the crossbar? If FFR added them, I suspect there was a reason? To help with rear end collision perhaps?

I am just wondering if there's a downside to removing them.

[JohnK]

Speaking from personal experience, that rear frame section is not the most rigid structure to begin with. Removing the diagonal braces is going to make it far less rigid. However, from the photos posted above what I'm more concerned with is the bracing that was added to the forward fuel tank supports. Those are designed to be able to yield forward in the event of a minor rear-end collision. By adding rigidity to those posts you've made it so that a rear-end collision will crush the fuel tank rather than allow those posts to yield and allow the tank to shift forward.

[CABulldog]

I am not speaking from the place of knowledge, so this is merely a curiosity: is there a downside to removing the crossbar? If FFR added them, I suspect there was a reason? To help with rear end collision perhaps?

I am just wondering if there's a downside to removing them.

I doubt those bars will help much with collision, I was planing on the same mod on my frame as well. The best I can figure out is those bars provide the rear of the frame with strength to avoid flex. I would think that what Ted did would do the same thing.

I have 1 box for missing in kit items and 2 boxes of POL items arriving this week. I might also find some time to start a build thread here as well.

[Ted G]

Ted, I am not sure which is better, your trunk mod or them gauges! Both are stellar for sure. Having that extra trunk space and removing the cross bracing is going to be awesome for storage; I'm jealous. You are making this car your own and it is coming out great so far! I received my first POL box yesterday so I bet you will have some goodies arriving soon too.

Thanks AgileYety, I would love to know what you got in your POL delivery! I could really use the front upper control arms and some IRS part... maybe the gas tank as well.

[sam_sturdy]

We had the same completion date and I received the UCAs in my first POL delivery. No tank yet.

[Ted G]

Speaking from personal experience, that rear frame section is not the most rigid structure to begin with. Removing the diagonal braces is going to make it far less rigid. However, from the photos posted above what I'm more concerned with is the bracing that was added to the forward fuel tank supports. Those are designed to be able to yield forward in the event of a minor rear-end collision. By adding rigidity to those posts you've made it so that a rear-end collision will crush the fuel tank rather than allow those posts to yield and allow the tank to shift forward.

Hi John,

Yes, I thought a lot about the strength of the rear end doing this mod. Might be hard to see, but those supports are only welded together with cross bars at one point each for battery support and not connected to any other part of the frame. The battery support is actually above the IRS supports, so it will move forward beyond the IRS area in the event of a crash. This will still move forward very easily. Also, you can see that I added some extra supports in the frame to add rigidity to the rear end.

[Ted G]

We had the same completion date and I received the UCAs in my first POL delivery. No tank yet.

Thanks Sam, that is good to know.

[Ted G]

I doubt those bars will help much with collision, I was planing on the same mod on my frame as well. The best I can figure out is those bars provide the rear of the frame with strength to avoid flex. I would think that what Ted did would do the same thing.

I have 1 box for missing in kit items and 2 boxes of POL items arriving this week. I might also find some time to start a build thread here as well.

CABulldog, I am pretty confident that the frame is just as strong or stronger. I did have a concern with the fuel tank, but think my design alleviated that problem. I in the event of a minor rear end, the batter box would move with the fuel tank.

Did FFR inform you of your pending POL delivery? Nothing yet for me. And you really should do a build thread.

Ted

[CABulldog]

Did FFR inform you of your pending POL delivery? Nothing yet for me. And you really should do a build thread.

Ted

No I get alerts whenever anything fedex is sent to me so I got emails showing that Fedex has picked up with the information, FFR uses the references so I have 2 boxes that show POL items

[zee]

I doubt those bars will help much with collision, I was planing on the same mod on my frame as well. The best I can figure out is those bars provide the rear of the frame with strength to avoid flex. I would think that what Ted did would do the same thing.

Thanks. I'll likely add the Ted-mod to my list of mods :-)

[Ted G]

Another fun weekend finishing up the chassis with paint. This color is Ford Blue and is done in Farm & implement paint. This paint is much more durable and thicker than most. Although it is not as tough as powder coating, I think it will last years. I did the frame in four steps. 1st it was primed with self etching primer:

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After sanding primer and prepping for paint, I did everything but the 4" round tubes and round cross members. I had to protect them from overspray as I really wanted them to shine. Here is a few photos to completion. I think it turned out really nice.

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One of the big issues with this paint, is you have to wait at least 48 hours to repaint or the paint will bleed or bubble up. Learned that the hard way. I also had to paint that beautiful Factory Five logo on the IRS a different color... although nobody will ever see it, I know it looks pretty!! Also, I decided not to paint over the Chassis number other than with a clear coat.

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I also got my 25 aluminum panels back from the powder coater and polished several others, pics will be coming soon. Looking to actually start building this coming week. I just wish I had a complete rear end or front end to start with. I'm thinking about running some of the brake lines and fuel line before any aluminum goes in. Thoughts?

Ted

[Fman]

Looking great Ted! Nice work, that is not an easy task you just completed. I personally would hold off on brake lines until at least the pedal box was installed with your MC’s mounted. I would also make sure F panels were mounted. This way you can get exact measurement of your line lengths and connecting the lines up to the MCs. For fuel lines are you running hard lines to braided or full length PTFE braided lines?

[Ted G]

Looking great Ted! Nice work, that is not an easy task you just completed. I personally would hold off on brake lines until at least the pedal box was installed with your MC’s mounted. I would also make sure F panels were mounted. This way you can get exact measurement of your line lengths and connecting the lines up to the MCs. For fuel lines are you running hard lines to braided or full length PTFE braided lines?

Thanks for the advise on the brake lines and pedal box Travis. Omg, so many nooks and crannies on that frame. F panels will be installed next for sure. I'm not sure, but was thinking just running hard lines to braided. I think you did full length braided.... Comments and suggestions are welcomed. I may sneak a peek at your build thread and a couple of others. This is where the rubber meets the road, the build actually starts.

Just wish I could complete something right off the bat... POR list is not that long, but there are some key missing items in both front end, rear end, fuel system, etc.

Ted

[CABulldog]

I have been told by several people to not rivet in any of the panels for as long as possible that way you can remove them to install fuel/brake lines for wiring. This is the route I am going, I am drilling and cleco'ing all my panels, then I will make my frame mods, and have the frame painted, reinstall the panels with cleco's and start building from there.

[Ted G]

I have been told by several people to not rivet in any of the panels for as long as possible that way you can remove them to install fuel/brake lines for wiring. This is the route I am going, I am drilling and cleco'ing all my panels, then I will make my frame mods, and have the frame painted, reinstall the panels with cleco's and start building from there.

Yes, I think that is a good idea. Thanks,

[Fman]

Thanks for the advise on the brake lines and pedal box Travis. Omg, so many nooks and crannies on that frame. F panels will be installed next for sure. I'm not sure, but was thinking just running hard lines to braided. I think you did full length braided.... Comments and suggestions are welcomed. I may sneak a peek at your build thread and a couple of others. This is where the rubber meets the road, the build actually starts.

Just wish I could complete something right off the bat... POR list is not that long, but there are some key missing items in both front end, rear end, fuel system, etc.

Ted

Ted, I chose to run Fragola PTFE for both supply and return lines. So far they have been good with no issues. I did not see any reason to run a hard line but just my preference, plenty of builders using hard lines to braided. It would be tough to run full length braided lines without your fuel pump and pressure regulator mounted.

I agree with CABulldog use cleco’s when possible before permanently riveting any panels.

Sounds like you might be stalled out with front and rear suspension components? Can you work on pedal box?

[JeffP]

Yes, I think that is a good idea. Thanks,

This is good advice and wish I had followed it a little more closely. In addition to it, Make sure that you don't complete a step that might prevent you from getting that rivet puller in there either. More than once i've been staring a cleco thinking how on earth am I going to get that rivet. I've found cleco everything and leave it until you absolutely know you have to get the rivet in to move forward otherwise you won't be able to get to it.

[Ted G]

Ted, I chose to run Fragola PTFE for both supply and return lines. So far they have been good with no issues. I did not see any reason to run a hard line but just my preference, plenty of builders using hard lines to braided. It would be tough to run full length braided lines without your fuel pump and pressure regulator mounted.

I agree with CABulldog use cleco’s when possible before permanently riveting any panels.

Sounds like you might be stalled out with front and rear suspension components? Can you work on pedal box?

Travis, I think I'm going hard lines to braided for now. Yes.... my plan is to not use a single rivet until I need to. I'm probably going to start the front suspension (without UCA's) this weekend and maybe tackle the pedal box too!. I worked a few hours yesterday getting some of the cockpit aluminum in with clecko's so I can make some decisions on routing the brake cables etc. I like the way your ran your front's up above the headers. Maybe I can pick your brain on that.

ted

[Russwood]

I used clecos to temp all my panels on until I'm 100% sure of where every screw/hanger/etc. is going. I've had mine on and off a few times in places.

I also recommend getting all the hard lines routed/mounted before panels go on where possible. Again, easier to install without the panels in the way. In my build, there's a couple places where the panels need to be in final position before the lines because the line routes against the panel (under the foot boxes in my case). I'm not to coating my frame yet, so everything I've done so far is temporarily fastened.

You probably already know this but keep your brake lines to as much hard line as possible. Ideally, only use the high-pressure flex lines at the calipers, and use the lines that come with the Wilwood kits (or the FFR lines if you didn't upgrade). Run hard lines right off the master cylinders all the way to each corner. Too much length of flex lines in your brake system will create a soft pedal. I used 1/4" (-4AN) stainless hard lines on mine. Also make sure you use steel fittings and not aluminum on the brake system. Some say aluminum is ok, but I don't trust my safety to a soft metal where brakes are concerned. Even with manual brakes, the pressures are pretty high.

On the fuel lines, I opted to run hard lines as well, somewhat for looks but also for better resistance to damage. I ordered the EFI option, so I used the high pressure AN hose that came with that between the hard lines and the fuel filter/tank end and at the fuel pressure regulator (running a Coyote). I had to buy a few fittings to make the hoses custom lengths, but I'm happy with the result. Aluminum fittings are fine on the fuel lines.

[Ted G]

I used clecos to temp all my panels on until I'm 100% sure of where every screw/hanger/etc. is going. I've had mine on and off a few times in places.

I also recommend getting all the hard lines routed/mounted before panels go on where possible. Again, easier to install without the panels in the way. In my build, there's a couple places where the panels need to be in final position before the lines because the line routes against the panel (under the foot boxes in my case). I'm not to coating my frame yet, so everything I've done so far is temporarily fastened.

You probably already know this but keep your brake lines to as much hard line as possible. Ideally, only use the high-pressure flex lines at the calipers, and use the lines that come with the Wilwood kits (or the FFR lines if you didn't upgrade). Run hard lines right off the master cylinders all the way to each corner. Too much length of flex lines in your brake system will create a soft pedal. I used 1/4" (-4AN) stainless hard lines on mine. Also make sure you use steel fittings and not aluminum on the brake system. Some say aluminum is ok, but I don't trust my safety to a soft metal where brakes are concerned. Even with manual brakes, the pressures are pretty high.

On the fuel lines, I opted to run hard lines as well, somewhat for looks but also for better resistance to damage. I ordered the EFI option, so I used the high pressure AN hose that came with that between the hard lines and the fuel filter/tank end and at the fuel pressure regulator (running a Coyote). I had to buy a few fittings to make the hoses custom lengths, but I'm happy with the result. Aluminum fittings are fine on the fuel lines.

Thanks Russel, that's all great info. Yes, my plan is to run hard brake lines to each corner for sure. The last few days I drilled and fitted most of the cockpit and footbox panels so I know where I can and cannot run lines. All are off today and hopefully this weekend I'll get some line run.

Ted

[AgileYeti]

Ted! You're making great progress. Sorry for the delay on the POL list. It wasn't our UCA just yet, but it was my 3-link bracket, springs for rear shock, some bushings and toggles. I've been filling my free time with house projects and trying to get my garage in a fraction of the shape of yours. Your chassis looks awesome in blue! I sent mine off to get coated last week so just waiting to jump in once its back home. Keep up the awesome work

[Ted G]

Well, since I am missing multiple parts for the rear suspension, fuel tank, and front suspension, I decided to do just a little on the front end and the pedal box this weekend. I have been doing some polishing of the engine bay aluminum and adding some heat shields (mainly on the passenger side). A few months go, I did a video on the benefits of adding extra aluminum around the foot boxes where you can; I will add some around the driver's side, but it will be more limited than the passenger side. Here is that video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9YgrlhVaDs

I installed all the heat shields with rivnuts attached from the inside of the pedal box. This allows the rivnut to be give the gap between the heat shield and the footbox (about 3/8") and helps the carpet have a smooth transition inside the footbox. Here is a few pictures of my heat shield plan:

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I also started working on the pedal box today, but ran into a HUGE problem. My pedal box main bracket was angled way off...like 20 degrees off. I had to adjust it and if you know that bracket, it is stainless steel and about 1/8" thick.... no easy task. Those pics will come this week; bending it to the correct angle caused some big scratches in the bracket..... so I decided to coat the brackets and will install this week.

I was very excited to start my front suspension and put together the KONI shocks. Although I am missing a few items from the front, I decided I could move forward. Upper ball joints and UCA's are what I'm missing. I also had a rough time getting the bolts to line up in the LCA's. I had to "manipulate" the holes as they just didn't line up very well. Not sure if that is a production issue in the framing or in making the LCA's. But it was very frustrating. I installed my front KONI's with the body up.... any benefits of installing it down?
Here are a few pics of the what I have completed on the front end thus far:

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I am also starting to contemplate running the brake and fuel lines this week. Big Huge shout out to Travis (FMAN) for giving me the great idea of using backer rod for routing the brake lines and helping me to figure out how long of a line I need.

166095

Overall a great weekend on #10333 with a little frustration on fitting of a couple of items.

This week will include running brake lines, completing the pedal box and polishing aluminum.


Ted
#10333

[Springsyeti]

Looking awesome! We are going to steal some of you ideas and suggestions from others. Our front LCA's mounting bolts needed a little love from a dead blow mallet but went in pretty smooth.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I installed my front KONI's with the body up.... any benefits of installing it down?

Ted
#10333

The red body 30 Series Konis can be oriented with the body up or down so long as clearance isn't an issue. You realize that you'll have to take them loose to install the UCAs, right?

Looking good, carry on!

Jeff

[Ted G]

The red body 30 Series Konis can be oriented with the body up or down so long as clearance isn't an issue. You realize that you'll have to take them loose to install the UCAs, right?

Looking good, carry on!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, yes I figured that, but just wanted to have something look somewhat completed.

[toadster]

those heat shields are awesome! I remember watching your video testing the temps -are you going to add any other padding in between like Thermotec?

[CaptB]

Nice colors.

[Ted G]

those heat shields are awesome! I remember watching your video testing the temps -are you going to add any other padding in between like Thermotec?

Hey Todd! Yes, I'll be adding thermotec in the footbox as well as Heatshield product behind the heat shields. As you can see, I made them removable in case of any fitment issues.

[Fman]

Ted, maybe Jeff or someone can answer this but does it make a difference with the adjustment collar up or down for easier adjustment? I put my shocks so the collar was on the down (bottom) side because it "looked" like it would be easier to adjust the ride height than having to do it on the top side of the spring. I had to adjust my ride height multiple times to get it all dialed in.

[JB in NOVA]

I installed all the heat shields with rivnuts attached from the inside of the pedal box. This allows the rivnut to be give the gap between the heat shield and the footbox (about 3/8") and helps the carpet have a smooth transition inside the footbox. Here is a few pictures of my heat shield plan:

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Ted, love the Ford Blue chassis! And the heat shields are sweet. One thing I discovered during my shakedown cruises is that the heat not only comes through and around (mainly around) the footbox, but also through the transmission tunnel. I was really surprised how hot the transmission tunnel got during normal driving. I insulated not only the upper panels of the tunnel, but also the entire tunnel from below, which really cut down on the heat coming into the cockpit. It made an immediate difference.


Another thing I did is line the entire tunnel (both above and underneath) with thermal insulation:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147633&d=1620694648

This really cuts down the amount of heat transmitted through the tunnel aluminum. I noticed the difference right away once I installed it. With the insulation installed, it only gets slightly warm to the touch even after vigorous driving, as opposed to ACTUALLY HOT without the insulation.



Just an FYI. Your build is looking great!

[Ted G]

Ted, love the Ford Blue chassis! And the heat shields are sweet. One thing I discovered during my shakedown cruises is that the heat not only comes through and around (mainly around) the footbox, but also through the transmission tunnel. I was really surprised how hot the transmission tunnel got during normal driving. I insulated not only the upper panels of the tunnel, but also the entire tunnel from below, which really cut down on the heat coming into the cockpit. It made an immediate difference.



Just an FYI. Your build is looking great!

Thanks JB, yes, I plan on using something there too. Thanks for the tip and the compliments. Tonight I installed my pedal box... that was fun! Pics coming soon.

[Ted G]

Well, I got a lot done this weekend but it doesn't seem like a lot. Waiting on the POL deliveries is not joke. My first delivery was my windshield.... definitely don't need that for a while. I have another three boxes coming, but not sure what they are but I heard from Yeti (10331) that it should be the Front UCA's. It would be great to get those, some missing IRS parts, and the fuel tank.

Anyway, I did get some tedious things done this weekend and I'm so thankful to some of you who reached out to give advice.

For starters, I tackled several tedious things this past week. 1) pedal box 2) running brake lines 3) polishing of engine bay aluminum 4) e-brake 5) blast gate ventilation

Pedal box was a challenge as my pedal box bracket was angled at 90*. I had to adjust it about 15* just to get it to fit. My bending brake was way too small for that task, so I used a little old school bending techniques... My Jeep... Wish I would have took pictures, but it turned out perfect after a few sledge hammer blows. I also had to paint it to get some of the scratches off and I wish I took some pictures of the process.
166509

Then I moved onto the running my front and rear brake lines. I really had no idea how much I would enjoy this task.
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I also worked on polishing the engine bay aluminum. I used 600 and 800 grit sandpaper (wet) and then moved onto my polisher. Each panel took about 15 minutes, but I think it looks great!
166514166515

Since I'm limited to 10 photos, I'll have to post the rest in the next post..


Ted #10333

[Ted G]

Next I tackled the e-brake system. This was a challenge from the get go, but BrewCityCobra along with several others helped me out with good ideas that I think will work. The mounting brackets are actually bent just enough to tilt the whole assembly a bit further into the passenger side so that it does not rub (or grind) against the transmission wall aluminum. This worked out great as best I can see with minimal removal of aluminum. I also replaced the rear mounting bolt with a button head bolt that was placed on the bottom to help clear the clevis assembly that I purchased from Wilwood. Great thing is that the handle only protrude when engaged and is even more out of the way when disengaged. I think you can see the bent mounting brackets and the sharpie shows about half of what I actually removed.
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Finally, I moved to the blast gates for the ventilation system. This is something that I am pretty concerned about as it gets pretty hot here in the Sacramento area and I feel any ventilation is good ventilation. I took a few notes from some others for my placement of the gates. I wanted the PS to be as far over as possible, so I had to do a little fabrication on that one... you can see in the pics.
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Ted #10333

[JeffP]

I'm not sure what your engine/header combo will be but it'll be pretty tight on that drivers side blast gate.

[Ted G]

I'm not sure what your engine/header combo will be but it'll be pretty tight on that drivers side blast gate.

Thanks Jeff, but it is pretty high up and I saw someone else do it right at the "bend" there. We'll see I guess.

[Fman]

I'm not sure what your engine/header combo will be but it'll be pretty tight on that drivers side blast gate.

I have mine mounted in the same place, he should have no issues with clearance.

[Railroad]

I would change rear carriage bolt on e-brake to enter from the bottom. You will see why when the cables come into play.
Nice work.

[Ted G]

I would change rear carriage bolt on e-brake to enter from the bottom. You will see why when the cables come into play.
Nice work.

Yes indeed! I actually changed it to a button head just so I could hold it as it would turn in the round hole.

[460.465USMC]

Great progress, Ted! I bet your panels are going to look great with the polishing treatment you described!

The part I liked about installing break lines was finishing. :p Figuring out some of the three dimensional bends hurt my head!

[Ted G]

Another great and fun weekend it the garage!

I re-tackled the e-brake and yes... this is an issue and by far not a perfect set up. FFR should re-think this IMO. My previous post about this system was pre-mature and I realized I needed more innovation here. I took a little bit of good stuff a few mods and I think I have a well functioning, good looking modification of the FFR e-brake. Thanks to F-man, Brew City and several other who had good plans.

Bending the brackets were definitely key to the success of this mod. Adding the pulley system is also a must do. I wanted lower pulley so that it would not "rub" against the bottom bolt. I've seen a custom bracket to lower the pulleys and I've seen extensions on the lever it self. Both great ideas, but seems it's still not perfect. I decided to do both... a custom bracket to lower the pulleys and a very small extension of the levers.

Here is my plan for the bracket. I am using a 1/4" aluminum stock that is 3" with a 1/2" angle. I riv-nutted it to the frame with another bolt running through the e-brake bracket.

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Then I drilled the holes for the pulleys and decided to have options with placement. I purchased the Wilwood Parking brake kit (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G39K0A?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) to get all the parts (clevis, block, cables) - Quality stuff! You may also notice that I extended the tail of the brake handle, but only by about 5/8 of an inch, but it worked out perfect!

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I completely clear the rear bolt on the bracket, I clear the 4" tube (except if I use the lower rear whole on the custom bracket), and the handle completely clears rubbing the transmission side wall aluminum.


Ted #10333

[Ted G]

I also completed all my brake lines this weekend, installed the PS Rack and started on the IRS Control arms. I'm missing my bushings for the center section, so that will have to wait. Oh, I also received my rear tires.... SEXY!!

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=166861&d=1652678388

Hope everyone has a great week!

Now Go Build Something
Ted #10333

[460.465USMC]

Hi Ted. Hope your POL is moving in the right direction. You've been making great progress despite the delays.

A while back I read your comment about not yet receiving your Gas-N side exhaust, and you ordered them in Nov. Have you received them yet? I'm curious, as I ordered mine in Dec. and still haven't received them. I've been in contact with Georgie a few times over the last couple months, and he keeps saying they're on the way. I'll feel a bit better for both of us if you tell me yours arrived.

[Ted G]

Hi Ted. Hope your POL is moving in the right direction. You've been making great progress despite the delays.

A while back I read your comment about not yet receiving your Gas-N side exhaust, and you ordered them in Nov. Have you received them yet? I'm curious, as I ordered mine in Dec. and still haven't received them. I've been in contact with Georgie a few times over the last couple months, and he keeps saying they're on the way. I'll feel a bit better for both of us if you tell me yours arrived.

Unfortunately, my side pipes have not arrived and he has ghosted my over the past few weeks. Hope he is still in business. In regards to the POL, I am getting deliveries, but not exactly the parts I need. I am still missing bushing for my IRS and a few items for the front suspension. I also have no gas tank. I am working on my fuel lines this weekend and going to start the carbon fiber dash.

Ted

[Ted G]

Tomorrow will be exactly two months since I got delivery from FFR.

Been a busy few weeks with graduations, new job, and life in general. My POL list is slowing me down a bit, but I'm finding things to do when I have the time. The past few weeks I've focused on brake lines, fuel lines and some permanent aluminum. I also installed my steering rack, front sway bar, and custom e-brake mod.

Here are a few pictures of the Fuel lines run; I went with 5/16" and decided to run a return line in the same size:
167501 167502 167503

I also ran my brake lines to the front and rear:
167504 167505 167506 167507


I also did this little video of everything up till now:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJCKuZWX8lU

I am looking forward to starting the dash and my reservoirs soon while I wait on POL parts. I am currently waiting on parts for front suspension, rear suspension, steering parts, gas tank, etc. Having a blast even though the waiting game seems never ending.

[JeffP]

If you get tired of waiting for the gas tank, not the most expensive part I decided to source else where so I could keep moving. Not sure why these are POL (I still haven't received mine either) it seems to be a pretty common part and readily available from a lot of sources.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IZ9R06/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[sam_sturdy]

They have the gas tanks but are waiting until the covers come in to ship out all together in June

[Springsyeti]

Send a message to FF. They sent rear bushings last week and I was able to get things moving there. We are still waiting on the fuel tank also and a pillow bearing for the steering. We have been ordering fasteners from McMaster car or at the hardware store to keep moving. Looking good though!
m

[Mike.Bray]

We are still waiting on the fuel tank also and a pillow bearing for the steering.

I'm using this pillow block bearing, fit perfect and pretty much the same as what FFR supplies.

https://www.mcmaster.com/2353K32/

[Ted G]

Work and POL are getting in the way of progress!

Anyway, I completed my triple reservoirs this past weekend. I used the FFR reservoirs and I think they turned out pretty good. I started with a max of 11" guideline and "stepped" the brackets. I wanted to insure that they would be level and I fabricated a custom bracket from 1/8" x 3" 6063 Aluminum. The blue line is my level mark on the chassis; that'll be my guide.

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I also made two small brackets for my blast gate cables and did a little custom fabrication on the blast gates and added stainless 90* tubes. I lightly polished all brackets.

167801 167802 167803

Here is the final Triple Reservoirs:

167804 167805

Lastly, I started the Dynomat heat shields and sound barrier in the footboxes. Pics to come later.



Ted
Go Build Something

[zee]

I cannot wait to see what the engine bay looks like with the engine in and body on. That blue frame, my goodness, will look insanely amazing! Can't wait to see it.

[Ted G]

I cannot wait to see what the engine bay looks like with the engine in and body on. That blue frame, my goodness, will look insanely amazing! Can't wait to see it.

Thank you. Yes, I envisioned a colored frame for quite some time and settled on the "old" Ford blue color. The Anniversary editions are what got me thinking about other than black.

[zee]

Thank you. Yes, I envisioned a colored frame for quite some time and settled on the "old" Ford blue color. The Anniversary editions are what got me thinking about other than black.

I too want a coloured frame. I just can't figure out what colour. So I am eagerly waiting to see what yours look like :-).

Otherwise I'll just go with silver or something.

What will your engine look like?

[Ted G]

I too want a coloured frame. I just can't figure out what colour. So I am eagerly waiting to see what yours look like :-).

Otherwise I'll just go with silver or something.

What will your engine look like?

I went with a shade that would compliment my body color. I am going a very, very dark blue. I also thought about silver, but I am having a lot of polished aluminum on my engine and wanted a contrast. Engine will be a stroked 351w to 427.

[AgileYeti]

Looking great, Ted! I love that 90* stainless for your blast gate. It looks really sharp and like a great idea! ...might have to swipe that one :cool: The fuel lines are rockin with that guard on too. Keep it up and you are going to be driving by fall

[Ted G]

Looking great, Ted! I love that 90* stainless for your blast gate. It looks really sharp and like a great idea! ...might have to swipe that one :cool: The fuel lines are rockin with that guard on too. Keep it up and you are going to be driving by fall

Yes, I thought they were a good idea and looked really sharp. I did have to manipulate the blast gates a bit (belt sander) to get these to fit. Here is where I got them:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081PQPF37?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Ted

[PNWTim]

CaptB, yes they are awesome, but my experience with them was really weird.

The sales person was so unhelpful and said I could not do what I wanted to do (color of the gauges). She said I could only have a "logo" on them and had to use their colors on the background (even though the software allows you to add your color as a jpg). Then, she said that I could not do stripes on the speedo or fuel level either. When I said that they had stripes as an example on their website, she claimed it was a mistake and they could not do that anymore. I asked if I could speak with the person in the art department, she said we don't let them speak with the public. This was just so strange!! So I agreed with their color background and doing just logos.

Finally, in the end, the person in the art department sent me my proofs. We had a to make a little change and then I asked the art person if I could do a navy blue background... and she said no problem. Then, I asked if I could add stripes and I have the artwork for them... She promptly sent me back with proofs with everything I wanted!! What the heck?

Seems the sales person didn't know much, but the art person was friendly, accommodating and gave me complete customer satisfaction. I am very happy with my gauges after all that.

It's interesting as I have had a very similar experience with them for my 69 Camaro. I am assuming the "she" was the same individual I dealt with about a year ago. Same thing - "we can't do that" then did it, etc. I love my gauges but the buying experience left a lot to be desired. Go figure.

[Ted G]

Happy Father's Day!! My gift from my kids was a full day in the garage... what could be better than that?

Had a great weekend with my amazing girlfriend and our kids... Today was all about being in the garage working on 10333. The past few weeks have been difficult to work on her because I started a new job and have been literally drinking from a fire hose!! However, I was able to work a little bit here and there. But today was very productive!

I really wanted to finish the front end, so I purchased a few of the backordered items so I could move forward. I set up my Wilwood disc brakes months ago as I anticipated backorders on them. Thank you to Mike Forte for getting them sent out in a timely manner and even saving me a few dollars. I event was able to put my wheels on!! Wow, this just puts everything into different perspective! Here are a few pictures of my completed front end, brakes and wheels (although I am still waiting on my recently ordered Moog tie-rod ends):

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I also have been working on the dash for a while now. Measuring, making adjustments, re-measuring, making adjustments, etc. The Carbon fiber dash is so sleek, but so unforgiving. I cut each hole about 1/8" to 1/4" too small and then barrel sanded them to where I needed them. Dust, Dust, Dust!!!! I think it turned out great, but I still need to add indicator signals, start switch, and the lower bar of switches. I am also adding a condensed version of the Whitby box below...details will be figured out over time. I am very happy with my custom gauges from Speedhut and I think they'll look great after the body is painted to match. My decision on the dash was to "center" the striped speedo and striped fuel gauge. I went with oversized tach (4 1/2"), Oil Temp and Water Temp (2 5/8"). Here are some shots:

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Hope you all had a great Father's Day!


Ted

[Ted G]

Well, after a few weeks of my job taking over, I'm back to the build. Although I did squeeze in a few hours here and there after work a few times.

I enjoy electrical work, but it does take some time to really plan out everything. Starting on the electrical really made me re-think my lower dash/console options. I decided to run the rear harness through the transmission cover along with the seat heater wires and a couple other circuits as I really want the engine bay to have a super clean look. I also wanted my trans cover to be removable.... hmmmm can I accomplish this?

I decided to cut the trans cover and have the most forward part of the trans cover permanently attached. The console will also be completely removable and all switches will be able to be "unplugged" when removed. My dash will be set up to also be completely removable and "unplugged" if needed. My reasoning for this is to resolve any future problems back there with ease. Here are few fabrication pictures:

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My transmission tunnel and this console will be eventually covered in black leather. This is roughly what the finish look of the lower dash/console will look like:

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More pictures to come as I modify, improve on, and complete the rough electrical. I am also adding a few new circuits for seat heaters, extra lighting, and my footbox fans.


Ted

[toadster]

looks awesome Ted! Great idea with the rear harness!

[Ted G]

Well, after 3 1/2 months of waiting, I finally received my IRS Bushings and toe linkage adjuster.

169311

Now I can finish the rear end and move forward. I purchased and received the center section, spindles and hubs from Mike Forte months ago. I prepped with POR 15 in the sharp Ford Blue Engine enamel and painted the spindles with Eastwood's 2X cast aluminum silver. I was just waiting on the front center section bushings and the linkage adjuster to complete it all. Now I get to put it all together.

I figured I needed a second pair of hands for this job, but I was so excited to get it together, that I attempted a self install of the center section. With help from my ceiling lift, floor jack and some tie-downs, I was able to get it in. Three bolts went in like a charm, but that last one took some manipulating and a bunch of cursing! Here is a few pictures from the center section install:

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On to the axles, spindles and hubs:

169336 169337

Then, I started on the brakes! Unfortunately, I over torqued the one of the bolts that mount the caliper and could stripped the nut. Basically had to remove the whole stud with an easy-out but luckily I was able to source both the nut and stud from Summit Racing and that arrived really quickly. Love those guys!



In the next post, I'll post pics of the brakes and wheels mounted!


Ted

[Ted G]

Finally, got the rear end completed with just one mistake on over torquing one of the caliper nuts..... Note to self, "make sure you are reading the correct torque specs. Aluminum nuts on a steel stud do not torque to 77 lbs", basically I read 77 and not the 30lbs of torque. Here is the result of my mistake:

169341

Fortunately, I was able to fix this problem fairly quickly thanks to Summit, a broken easy-out, and a pair of vise grips.

Moving on, I finished the brakes and even got the ebrake completed with a slight modification of the custom bracket I made. I need the bracket to be cut back so that the clevis or cables would not rub up against them. Here was my original design:

169342

And the new design:

169343

Brake cables and fluid lines complete! I may need to re-address the fluid line. I think an 90 degree bend from the caliper will be a better scenario than this 45 degree bend. I'll wait to see what it looks like once weight is on the wheels. Any input is well received!!

169344

I just had to put the wheels on to see the stout stance #10333 will have:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=169333&d=1657639468


Next up, more electrical and fuel tank.


Ted #10333

[toadster]

awesome job Ted! Glad you figured out your caliper item - I know that's frustrating!

also, that ebrake bracket looks awesome! all the hidden artwork on these cars! :)

[Ted G]

Work has been crazy, but I've been able to finish/start a few items. I was happy to get all my brakes bled last weekend and I added oil to the IRS center section. Now I can start on the fuel tank this weekend. I've decided to ditch my hard lines and run flexible lines instead.

I have also really been focusing on the electrical system and trying to get the majority of it buttoned up behind the dash and lower dash. Here are some shots of my custom Witby box I re-fabricated:

170217 170216
You can see the original Witby box and how I wanted it to cover the front of the trans tunnel. With that thought, I decided to cut the trans tunnel and make part of it permanent with the rear harness and a few other circuits coming up from below. This console will be completely removable and all circuits will have the ability to disconnect.

170218 170219 170220
I made a modification to the Witby box and lowered the center portion so the harness would have a little better access as this box is fairly close to the 2x2 cross member. You can see the wiring on the back. These switches will be for footbox lights, cubby lights, under hood lights and a future. The center switch is for ignition cut off. I also have USB, 12v outlet and seat heater switches.

170221 170222
Finally, I found a great looking dash vinyl wrap that very closely matches the carbon fiber dash. This took a while and two tries to get the wrap just perfect. I think it turned out pretty good. I temporarily put it in place, but the final install will go just before I'm ready to install the dash.

Next up... Fuel tank, filter, hoses (supply and return) and fuel regulator. And more dash work.

[CaptB]

I like them red switches, where did you get them?

[Ted G]

I like them red switches, where did you get them?

Thanks CaptB! yes, they are much sturdier than the FFR ones and they are sharp. They come in black or red and I got them on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHXQFBW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

[Blitzboy54]

Looking Sharp! Do you have any idea what the body color will be? Really curious what your going to marry that blue frame to.

[CaptB]

170483
Here's mine (the will be completely straight when finished), sure would like to find those in Green as that will be my color.

Great work though.

[Blitzboy54]

170483
Here's mine (the will be completely straight when finished), sure would like to find those in Green as that will be my color.

Great work though.

Like these?

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Automative-Illuminated-Waterproof-ASW-07DGGMZ/dp/B07VMDSW29/ref=asc_df_B07VMDSW29/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416726750802&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7398996512664165319&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026201&hvtargid=pla-1063388191832&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=96944448434&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416726750802&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7398996512664165319&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026201&hvtargid=pla-1063388191832

[CaptB]

Like these?

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Automative-Illuminated-Waterproof-ASW-07DGGMZ/dp/B07VMDSW29/ref=asc_df_B07VMDSW29/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416726750802&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7398996512664165319&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026201&hvtargid=pla-1063388191832&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=96944448434&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416726750802&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7398996512664165319&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026201&hvtargid=pla-1063388191832

Those are maybe a little too green! :-)

[Tim B]

Hey Ted,

I've been enjoying reading your thread, and living vicariously through your impressive build. I know it has been hot in EDH but wanted to send you some encouragement...looking forward seeing to your next move!

[Ted G]

I've been slow to post, but I have a lot accomplished in the past month as I am patiently waiting on my engine build. The problem has been getting the block.

I buttoned up many loose ends over the past few weeks including the custom heater box I fabricated. I read about several builds where the heater would draw in hot air from the engine compartment even when the heater was off. Here in Northern California, bringing in any amount of heat when not wanted is not good. I saw someone build a heater box (sorry, I can't remember who) and I thought that was a good idea and thought maybe I can improve on the look a bit. I've also hear of some just wrapping the heater in the Summer with a swim cap... not for me.

So, my plan is to encase the heater with aluminum and draw air only from the passenger footbox. I figure this will keep out engine heat during the Summer from just creeping in through the heater.

First, I pulled out the sheet metal brake to make my version of the heater box.
172052 172051 172050 172049

Then I had to open make sure the heater would actually fit.
172057 172056 172055

Lastly, I made my openings for the electrical and the vent coming from the passenger footbox. I scratched my head over this for some time as I wanted it to look sharp but be very functional and have good air flow.
172059 172058


Overall, I am happy with the somewhat crude design, but I think not only will it be functional, I think it will look pretty cool.

Ted

[toadster]

wow Ted that looks awesome!!

[Blitzboy54]

That is so cool. It's hard to innovate something totally new. Really well done.

[Ted G]

Another update to my build over the past two weeks. I finished up the trunk area and the Breeze cubby wall.
This was my customization of the frame I did a few months back:
172242

I finally got to the point where I could install the aluminum panels in this area (I was waiting for rear end and fuel tank). Here are a few shots of the trunk area with the customized/modified BREEZE drop trunk box that included an area for the battery with easy access. You can also see my battery posts on the left for charging/jumping. On the right, I have my latching switch for the trunk and battery area lighting.
172235 172239 172240 172241

Here is the cubby area. I notched the wall for the trunk struts and I also moved the struts over just a bit to clear the roll bar as it is a 1.75" roll bar. Notice the Breeze wall is covered with a carbon fiber sheet. Even though this will be hard to see, I think it'll give a touch of that cool factor once completed and will match my dash and lower dash. Of course, this will all be covered in Dynamat and carpet (except the carbon fiber wall).

172236 172237 172243

Lastly, I am thinking about just having the hoop for my roll bar. Still contemplating that idea.

172238

Ted

[460.465USMC]

Nice custom touches, Ted. I'm looking for ideas for trunk lighting. Sorry if you posted earlier and I missed, but would you mind sharing the source for your LED string across the trunk hoop (shown above)?

[Gizmosrcool]

Very nice on the LED and the carbon fiber sheet in the trunk. Can u share the product used to cover the wall? Thank You. Tom.

[Ted G]

Nice custom touches, Ted. I'm looking for ideas for trunk lighting. Sorry if you posted earlier and I missed, but would you mind sharing the source for your LED string across the trunk hoop (shown above)?

Hey Chris, thanks for the nice words. I got the lighting from Amazon and am very happy with the lighting, waterproof strip and the stickiness of the adhesive on the back. Good stuff at a good price. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GWXZWGG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

And here is the switch I purchased... it's a nice all aluminum 30mm button:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095PJJKGC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Ted

[Ted G]

Very nice on the LED and the carbon fiber sheet in the trunk. Can u share the product used to cover the wall? Thank You. Tom.


Thanks Gismosrcool! Yes, I like this stuff and it matches almost perfect with my cf dashboard. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NQFT298?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


Ted

[BornWestUSA]

Great build thread,
My Mk4 has a 427w also, but in 2012 the drivers footbox sheet metal did not accommodate this well. (As in zero spark plug access and headers are a nightmare) Do you have any pics of the footbox sheetmetal engine side and top side (master cylinders looking down) for me to compare? I know it was changed, I just have not seen pictures.

[Ted G]

Well, it's been a while since I posted. New job, family stuff and just plain old life. But, I have been advancing the build of #10333 to some extent. Last weekend I fitted the body for the first time since the build and yes, I had some issues like everyone else. The Breeze Cubby was almost an inch too high and kept the body too high. I also had an issue with one end of the Forward Firewall and the FFR firewall extension. Low and behold, a little trimming did the job. I am very happy with the dash placement and how everything is coming together. Body will be going to my painter (Ken Pike) next week for initial body work. My motor is almost complete (Elliot Franklin of Mustang Corral) and I should be picking that up in the next few weeks. I cannot wait to go-kart this thing and I am hoping that'll happen by the end of the year.

Here is a few pics of the problems:

174472 174473 174474

Here is a few pics of the fitting:

174466 174467 174468 174469

and the undercoating of the body:
174470 174471


Ted
#10333

[460.465USMC]

Hi Ted. Good to see an update on your build. Congrats on the new job! That's exciting you will get the body off to your body/paint guy soon.

I have the Breeze cubby as well. I suspect I will have the same issue with it raising the body. What tool did you use to trim the Breeze cubby with it in place? (In hindsight, I wish I would have thought to fit the body before installing it permanently. Not going to remove it now with the ThermoTec and carpet).

[Ted G]

Yes, I too installed the cubby wall and then the body.... ugh. I used a few things to cut it down. The corners next to the frame was the hardest. But I used my Hilti nibbler for the most part and used my Hilti die grinder with an amazing grinding bit to get those corners. Then I took my grinder to clean it up a bit (yes, Hilti). (shameful plug for Hilti tools). All good now.

Ted
Hilti sales employee

[toadster]

looks so good Ted -was great to see it in person today! :) keep rockin!

[Ted G]

looks so good Ted -was great to see it in person today! :) keep rockin!

Yes and thank you for bringing over the hoist. Also, thank for looking into the 3D printer for my wheel center caps. Also, thanks to FMan for lending out his hoist to Toadster and me.... and probably a few others.

[Ted G]

Had a visit with my engine builder today. Elliot Franklin of Mustang Corral if anyone wants a great builder in Northern California. Waiting on just a couple of parts that are supposed to be in today or tomorrow to complete the motor. I am planning on picking it up on Thursday of next week. Here is a few pictures thus far:

174795 174796

Then a few of the short block assembly:

174797 174798 174799

[Mike.Bray]

Love that Dart 427W Ted! Of course it's no secret I like SBF's in a Cobra. That's going to be outstanding in your car.

What are the specs and details?

[Ted G]

Love that Dart 427W Ted! Of course it's no secret I like SBF's in a Cobra. That's going to be outstanding in your car.

What are the specs and details?

This will be a pretty mild 427 with just over 500hp. Here are some of the details:

Skat forged rotating assembly.
AFR heads
Comp Cam (no specs as of yet)
Comp roller rockers
Aviad oil pan
Edelbrock performer RPM intake
Cloyes timing set double roller
Milodon water pump
Melling oil pump

Etc., etc., etc.
TKX trans

[Ted G]

Well, it has been a productive week or so. On Thursday, I dropped of the body at Ken Pike... The Nor Cal guru for Cobra paint and body.

175309

Then, from Yuba City, I drove the one hour drive to Grass Valley to pick up my motor and transmission from Elliot Franklin of "Mustang Corral". Great Ford Engine builder and many put their trust in him with their classic cars. It was a pleasure to see a few GT 350's, 500's, a Pantera and a CSX there. I picked up my 427 from him and couldn't be happier.

175310 175311

Over the weekend, I was able to put together my clutch, bellhousing and transmission. This was a bit of a challenge for me, but everything went together without a hitch. I am looking forward to have some of the Sacramento Cobra guys helping me this Saturday installing this bad boy.

175312 175313 175314 175315
175316 175317 175318

Today, I received my starter, coil, carburetor and a few other part to get this puppy installed. And guess what???? It's a slow week at work so that means more time in the garage!!!

Ted

[Ted G]

Last weekend was one of those milestones for sure. The Sacramento Cobra group showed up in full force and we got the motor installed into #10333. What a day of fun and camaraderie. We had one big challenge in that my custom heater box and the heater core inlet was just too close with the addition of the Forward Firewall from FF Metal. So, that'll be another post soon on how I will tackle that. So far, I just have the heater box and blower removed with the pipes cut. Here was the problem:

176242

With that causing the normally quick install to be a bit longer (a few hours), we powered through the issue with donuts and coffee and we were successful. #10333 was waiting for her mate:

176243 176244

With the TRX attached and headers removed, we delicately placed her into her home. Thanks to the Sacramento Factory Five Cobra group for all your help, advice, and hard work. Here are a few shots of the team and the install:

176245

176246

176247

176248

What a day I'll remember for years to come!

Ted

[Fman]

Congrats again Ted, thanks for inviting us all out... I can't wait to hear that Elliott Franklin built 427 come to life!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Ted. What a day! Very cool you had so many other builders there for the big day. Your motor is looking really good. And, your Ford blue chassis is really growing on me. Thanks for posting the pictures.

[John Ibele]

What a great way to get an engine in. Congrats. Also, great to see you work with a local builder on the engine, not the cheapest way to go but a very satisfying process for me at least, and you end up with one more thing that makes your build unique. Yours is looking great. Thanks for sharing the updates!

[Ted G]

Pretty productive weekend in the garage working on #10333. While I am waiting a few parts to trickle in from various vendors, I decided to tackle my ignition switch. Like others, I wasn't really happy with the provided FFR ignition switch and tiny little key. I decided to purchase an ignition switch from CJ Pony Parts for a 1965 mustang. I am using the left side of the dash position for the switch. Here is the original FFR supplied switch and the Mustang switch difference:

176968 176969 176976

Because of the much smaller wires, I was worried about running the heavy amperage through the Mustang switch so I ran two separate relays for the Ignition and ACC feeds. I also have a "Ignition Switch" on my lower dash that is a kill switch for the ignition. Here is the wiring diagram (please excuse the handwritten diagram) and the relays after install:

176970 176975

Cutting into the carbon fiber dash is a bit tricky, specially with the small anti-rotation notches.

176972 176971

Overall, I'm very happy with the switch. I actually had to cut the spring on the switch as it was just too tight and made the key pretty hard to turn. Now, back to the motor!!


Ted

[Ted G]

After tackling some behind the dash wiring for the ignition switch and changing the changing the clutch safety switch wires to the neutral safety switch, I moved on to the motor. I knew these headers were going to be a task getting them in with such tight tolerances between the bolts and the header tubes. I purchased the headers and sidepipes from GasN and I love them. I actually had two bolts I couldn't even get into the holes. The instructions from Georgie state that the header tube might have to be "manipulated" with a hammer. WHAT???? Well, it wasn't that bad after all.

After a little manipulation and a lot of cursing... the headers were in! I did manage to cross-thread one of the bolts, but corrected that pretty quick. The driver side was the hardest by far, but I found if you take off the valve cover, you have much more room to get your hands and tools in there.

176977 176978

Next, I moved onto the front end parts. Pulleys, brackets, alternator and power steering pump were next. I purchased my front end components from CVS Racing (https://www.cvfracing.com/ford/ford-289-302-351w-small-block/) and I am very happy with their products. I also looked at March Performance, but the cost difference was huge and I really wanted a v-belt system rather than a serpentine belts. I chose a billet Ford Power steering pump and a 100 amp chrome alternator.

Of coarse, nothing goes in perfectly and the power steering pump bracket was the culprit this time. The bracket (and possibly the pulley) was about 1/16" away from the steering column shaft. With the torque of the engine, this was a "it's not going to work" moment. UGH! I decided it would be ok to cut the bracket down as there are three bolts holding the pump onto the bracket and cutting through one of the "slides" was not going to affect anything. I just need to make sure I get a good tight-sized v-belt for adjustment purposes.

Here is the problem, and the fix:

176979 176980

After that was done, I completed the rest... I think it looks pretty good.

176981

Next up will be adding v-belts, coil, radiator, throttle linkage and fuel to carb.



Ted
#10333

[Ted G]

Hope everyone has had a wonderful Christmas season and Happy New Year!!

I was able to get some good progress over the holiday and getting closer and closer to the first start! However, I did come across a few issues that'll have to be dealt with before that day. But before the issues, I was able to install and set up the carburetor, fuel attachment and throttle linkage. I made my own fuel log and did the final attachment of Forte's throttle linkage.... Btw, I just love the feel of the pedal with this linkage! I also cleaned up the engine wiring and covered the plastic wire looms with a great product called "TechFlex". It's a braided nylon wrap that just cleans up the look IMHO. I also was able to install the GasN side pipes and hangers! This is just temporary for now, but will aid in lowering the sound in my "hood" on the day of first start. These are the "brushed nickel" pipes from Georgie. I love the look.

177568 177569 177570

Power Steering Issue:
Following up on my power steering issue, I realized that the old Ford Style pump will not work with my CVF set up as the steering shaft is just too close. Even if I got a belt that was very tight, I wouldn't have clearance for the rear connection as I am very close the the DS head. Here is a couple of pictures of the issue:

177571 177572

Now, I'll be going to a GM style PS set up.

Heater Box Issue:
Next, I tackled the heater relocation as during the engine install and the fact that I had a Forward Firewall made that original location too close to the valve cover and covered up one of the bolts. I am enclosing my heater and only pulling air from the passenger footbox instead of the engine compartment. Just a personal preference as I didnt' want that constant flow through the heater from the engine bay that several have complained about.

177573 177574

Valve Cover Bolt Issue:
I had to remove my valve covers to get better access to the headers for installation. Well, low and behold, I had one bolt snap in the head and removal was only partial. More on that to come on how I fix this issue. Looks like I'm going to used a keyed insert after drilling out the head but I'll take other recommendations. The threads are shot, so just tapping won't work.

177575 177576 177577


Happy Building!!

[Windsor]

Valve Cover Bolt Issue:
I had to remove my valve covers to get better access to the headers for installation. Well, low and behold, I had one bolt snap in the head and removal was only partial. More on that to come on how I fix this issue. Looks like I'm going to used a keyed insert after drilling out the head but I'll take other recommendations. The threads are shot, so just tapping won't work.


Aluminum heads on the engine?

[cc2Arider]

Lookin' good Ted G!

I learned about the TechFlex wiring loom split-wrap in the FFR build class and planned to use it for my MkIV Roadster build...but 1st, I want to use it on the simple wiring for my newly bolted-together small trailer :)

Which "flavor" did you get? I plan to get the Flexo F6 split-wrap...

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Valve Cover Bolt Issue:
I had to remove my valve covers to get better access to the headers for installation. Well, low and behold, I had one bolt snap in the head and removal was only partial. More on that to come on how I fix this issue. Looks like I'm going to used a keyed insert after drilling out the head but I'll take other recommendations. The threads are shot, so just tapping won't work.

177575 177576 177577

I prefer Helicoil (https://www.helicoil.in/) thread inserts. You can get them at Amazon or McMaster.

[mladen]

I prefer Helicoil (https://www.helicoil.in/) thread inserts. You can get them at Amazon or McMaster.

+1. Great review of some of the options here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jknMrFOGMOQ&t=12s&ab_channel=ProjectFarm

[Ted G]

Aluminum heads on the engine?

yes. Aluminum AFR heads

[Ted G]

Lookin' good Ted G!

I learned about the TechFlex wiring loom split-wrap in the FFR build class and planned to use it for my MkIV Roadster build...but 1st, I want to use it on the simple wiring for my newly bolted-together small trailer :)

Which "flavor" did you get? I plan to get the Flexo F6 split-wrap...

Craig C

F6 woven split wrap! I love this stuff

[Ted G]

Well, it happens. Just happy it wasn't something more serious. My last post I wrote about the broken valve cover bolt that snapped in the head and I was successful in only getting out about 1/4" of the snapped bolt with my easy out set. In doing so, the previously cross-threaded threads were shot and I'm sure I added to the problem and decided on doing a repair on the head.

Here is the bolt that snapped:

177885

After plenty of research, I decided on a "keyed insert". I understand there are other good forms of repair, but for the tiny little space I had to the edge of the head, I thought this might be the best. Here is the keyed insert I used:

177886

These bolts are typically a 1/4-20 thread pattern and I wanted to keep it that way so I used a 3/8" insert that had 1/4-20 internal threads. The bolts that came with my valve covers had a thinner shaft than your typical bolt that was 1/4-20 and just seemed to be a cheap bolt. I replaced them all with a grade 5 bolt. I prepped the area like it was surgery as I didn't want any chards of aluminum getting into the oil. Here are some pictures from the repair:

Step 1: Drill out head with a "Q" sized bit
177887
Step 2: Tap hole with 3/8" tap
177888
Step 3: Insert keyed insert
177889 177890
Step 4: Hammer down keys with special keyed insert tool
177891
Completed and probably stronger than before.
177892

[CABulldog]

Hi Ted,

#10333 sister (I was the delivery before Ted's) is coming on so much slower than you are. But again some great ideas I will be happy to steal for myself, that flex wrap looks good I think I will be taking that, I may also use a variation of you heater box idea as well. She is looking great looking forward to more progress.

James

[Ted G]

Thank you! What is your chassis number again?

[CABulldog]

Mine is #10323

[Ted G]

Well, we did it!

Thank you to the Sacramento Factory Five Group who came out this past weekend and not only supported, but helped in my first start. We needed a little timing help and adjustment of the idle but in the end, she ran beautifully! My girlfriend even got us a bottle of champagne with a great banner and sign to commemorate the day! Love you babe! My daughter (Capri) was the very first passenger the next day after I got a few of the bugs worked out.

Here are a few pics from the day:

178554 178555 178556

and the link to the first start video:
https://youtu.be/II5LnCplyZk

First good start that lasted more than 4 seconds:
https://youtu.be/Yw9HYElCjno

First Go-Kart:
https://youtube.com/shorts/zpSuud5a4Jk

Capri's first ride:
https://youtube.com/shorts/QpegoFIkZcM


Now, I just hope that the neighbors are ok with the bit of noise (especially my next door neighbors who are new to the hood and have a newborn baby).

Ted

[460.465USMC]

Wahoo! Congrats, Ted. First Start and go-kart at the same time. Well done. Thanks for posting the pics and videos.

[JohnK]

Congratulations Ted! That's awesome.

[cc2Arider]

What a great support Team you have ! Congratulations :)

Craig C

[CABulldog]

Congrats Ted must be a great feeling to get to that stage

[John Ibele]

Way to go, Ted! The engine sounds great, and you’re lucky to have such a fine support crew joining in. Big milestone achieved, congrats.

[Railroad]

Great fun!
Are those tires directional?

[Ted G]

Great fun!
Are those tires directional?

No, just have an inside/outside

[Ted G]

Thanks to John from our Sacramento Factory Five group who put this video on YouTube. That was a fun day full of good guys getting together with some Fire, troubleshooting, and champagne.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUMLv7EQTu0&t=2s

[460.465USMC]

Great video, John. Thanks for posting, Ted. At first was wondering what you meant by Fire...now I know. :p Great success, and looks like a really good group of guys there to support and fun was had!

[Ted G]

So, I really like the new door latches that FFR has obtained. I think they are probably better, less problematic and more durable with a better latching system. If you were like me, and got caught between the old latches and the new latches and did not receive and updated frame (probably between March 2021 and October 2021, you probably received the new latches but got a chassis with the old, shorter tabs that may or may not work with the new latches.

Factory Five has come up with a solution, but it is less than desirable. Since the new latches need a tab that is anywhere from 1/8" to 3/8" longer than the old style, many have to utilize the frame modification that FFR will provide if you ask. This mod is a little "Mickey Mouse" in my opinion, but it will work. This was a big bummer for me, because it was just another modification that I really didn't want to do... But in the end, I am happy with the results. I wanted something a little more custom, so this is what I came up with:


I decided to just cut off the existing tabs on the frame and come up with my own design that: 1). worked well and was sturdy 2). looked like it was meant to be from the start 3). was adjustable

So, I cut the tabs:
179533 179534

Ground down the frame:
179535

I decided on not welding a new tab on, but rather bolting on a tab instead. I decided to use 1/4" aluminum plate; mainly for strength and a sturdy look, plus this would be polishable. So, from a stock piece of aluminum, I cut the tabs, ground them down, drilled, countersunk and polished them. Since these weren't exactly the same on each side, I stamped them PS and DS for the future.
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Mounting them was a little challenge, but I decided to use two countersunk screws that went all the way through the 3/4" frame tube. I also used one that was just tapped into the frame (just to give a little more strength).
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This is the final look. These feel very, very strong, look good and have some adjustability.
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Let me know what you think.



Ted

[CABulldog]

Well I had better go check mine and fabricate new latches because I am likely in the same boat.

[Blitzboy54]

Looks really sharp. Nicely done

[toadster]

This is the final look. These feel very, very strong, look good and have some adjustability.
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Let me know what you think.
Ted

so awesome Ted! the polished look continues!

[Nigel Allen]

G'day Ted,

Great display of craftmanship that you get to look at every time you open the door.

Cheers,

Nige

[Ted G]

After almost 11 months with #10333, she is off to Ken's for body work and eventually paint. I feel I just dropped off my first born at college. Huge thanks to Travis (FMan) for helping me get this to Ken's in Yuba City. Travis' trailer is so nice! We parked her next to a beautiful Porsche 356 replica.

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Although my body was parked at Ken's for the past few months, he didn't start work on it until I brought the chassis to him. Ken texted me this picture of the very first work done on the body.... Now she is ready for fitment to the chassis.

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So, I think I have decided on the color.... I knew for the past several months that it was going to be some sort of a very dark blue. I consulted with many, but my girlfriend owns a Porsche, I have owned 3 and I have a left handed ignition key, and she loves this blue as do I!

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So, we are going with Porsche's Night Blue Metallic with Porsche GT Silver Metallic stripes and pins.


This week, I ordered a few things like a hide of leather (door panels & trans cover) and carpet (going with a grey instead of black) to keep me busy over the next few weeks.


Ted
#10333

[Ted G]

Ken is doing his magic on #10333. Pre-body work is done, 10333 is now in her own bay at Ken's Custom Auto Body, and fitment has started. Ken is one of the famous Cobra painters out there and can't wait to see the final result.

Body and Chassis meet again after 6 months:

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Breeze's 1/75" roll bar cut and installed. Ken tacked this and welded it. I'll have it finished after I pick up chassis before paint. I am hoping to find a shop who can do a quality brushed nickel finish.

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Next week Ken will trim and fit doors, hood and trunk! Hoping to get her back soon!

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Once I get the chassis back from Ken, I'll have a pretty good punch list that'll keep me busy for several weeks while I wait for Ken to finish his magic. Carpet, Trans cover, Battery box cover, Roll bar, Drive shaft safety loop, Vents, trunk lighting, and ride height and alignment are just some of punch list items. I'm sure I'll find much more to do. It's been quiet in the garage for the past 4 weeks.... looking forward to getting back in there. I had shoulder surgery (total shoulder replacement) just over three weeks ago and the weather in Northern California has been crazy! I timed my surgery for these weeks without the Cobra so I could heal and the bad weather cooperated with this timing too! Can't wait for Spring!!

Looking to get back in there very soon!!

[Ted G]

I have to admit, I am excited beyond belief to see the body with no red gel coat! Tomorrow is exactly one year ago that Stewart Transport pulled up to my house and delivered my dream project. Yesterday, Ken from Ken's Custom Auto Body sent me the pictures of my body with primer on it.

Not without any challenges, Ken did a great job on fitting the doors, hood and trunk with perfect gaps. You can see in this picture that the gap on the driver side door was about a 1/2". Ken had to add material to get the gap right.

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Then he moved onto the trunk and hood and then sat the body out in the sunshine for a few days. That is the Breeze 1.75" Roll Bar that I will be finishing in a brushed nickel finish to match the side pipes. Ken also did the weld for me as that was the easiest way to fit the body and roll bar. I'm looking for the smooth look weld, so I'll be grinding, polishing and finishing while I wait. This roll bar sits a few inches lower than the FFR roll bar and is 1/4" thicker.

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To my suprise, Ken sent me over these pictures yesterday with the primer on. My God she looks beautiful in primer grey!!!

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My understanding is #10333 will sit in the sun for a bit and then the real magic starts. Cannot wait to see her finished!

[Ted G]

Hello and Happy good driving weather!! While I've been waiting on Ken to complete the body work and paint, I've made some good progress and even attended my first Cars & Coffee. Here is a few pictures and a link to someone who posted a video of my car. No idea who it was, but I appreciated it! Oh yea, my illegal drive there was flanked by Fman, another Cobra and a Daytona coupe to try and make this look legal.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MUagKtDEtFc

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I had a few things I had to figure out, one of them was my tiny carburetor leak. This was coming from the back of the carb near the secondary bowl. I figured I did something wrong, with my plumbing or fuel level of the bowl. I checked fuel pressure, float level, needle seat, etc., etc., etc. Finally, I decided to pull the carb and check the gaskets of the carburetor. Low and behold, Holley sent me a brand new carburetor with a missing bowl bolt gasket. WTF? How could this get through QC? You can see the bolt with the missing black gasket below. Anyway, I bought all new gaskets for the bolts (Moroso) and bowls as the front bowl gasket was also slightly torn. Put it all back together and whala! no leaks!!!

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Then, I buttoned up some electrical lines under the rear end that fed my reverse light and trunk lights. While I was doing this, I just had to take a picture of the beautiful IRS center section. Yep, I POR'd it and did a little detail on the "5" in red. These are the details that no one will ever see but me.

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Then I started on carpet and installing the footbox sides. I must say, this is extremely tedious work, but fun too! I finished the cockpit and cubby area. I used the Factory Five included carpet as templates as I wanted to go with a different color. I went with 20lb Midnight Star Gray from Bass Boat Carpets. I just love this color. https://www.bassboatseats.com/collections/bass-boat-carpet/products/deckmate-20oz-bass-boat-carpet

I like the contrast and I did a little customization in the cubby area... Let me know what ya think?

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I've been trying to get my roll bar to closely match the GasN side pipes that are finished in brushed nickel without breaking the bank on a $400 finish. I got a brushed finish with brillow pad and put a couple coats of clear satin on it. This is what I have so far.

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Next up is some punch list items to complete before Ken is ready to mate the painted body to the chassis.

battery box cover in trunk
Vent hoses to footboxes (fresh air)
Seat restraints
Finish trunk carpet
Speaker install
I'm sure something else I can't think of right now

[Ted G]

Well, now that I am waiting on Ken Pike's magic spray gun. I am buttoning up a few finish items. This weekend I worked on a few things including logging a few miles in go-kart stage. I tackled the transmission cover details along with my personal mod to the shifter handle. I have the new TKX transmission and I am using the middle shifter position as it just feels perfect for me. With that position, I felt the Factory Five supplied shifter handle was just too long for me and first, third and fifth gear brought my knuckles a little to close to the dash. I found this great shifter at Summit Racing (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CPO-TRA-000-411) and decided it was perfect... A retro look and a nice, short throw.

You can see the difference in lengths are significant. But I didn't like how vertical the new shifter is.

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So, another mod to complete. A bracket to tilt the new shifter about 30 degrees made from a scrap piece of 1/4" aluminium was the answer. Three holes and some longer bolts were needed, so a trip to Ace Hardware for the exact thread pitch bolts. I think it looks pretty good (although no one will ever see it) and the position of the shifter is PERFECT!

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I then moved onto installing leather over the trans cover. No pictures, but I used 1/8" foam padding underneath the leather for a plush look and feel. I also covered the rear part of the trans cover with the same leather. This is the same leather that Herb did my door panels with. Finally, I finished off the cover with a custom made shifter boot from Redline Goods (https://www.redlinegoods.com/); I also have the same stitching for the brake boot from Redline.

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I ordered a shifter knob from Carroll Shelby Racing that should be here in a few weeks (dark blue with silver stripes and the CS logo on the side)


Ken is doing final primer coat this week and expects to start color in two weeks.

[cc2Arider]

Nice! :)

Craig C

[Ted G]

Thought I'd add one more pic with Shifter Ball. I ordered this from NiftyShifters.com. Great service and they even changed out the insert as the new shifter was 1/2" x 20. They just charged me $6.00 for shipping. Great company to work with if you want a custom shifter ball.

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[Ted G]

I really wanted a removable steering wheel for several reasons. Honestly, the main reason was just the cool factor; however, I am continually convinced that one day, when I need to change a brake reservoir or work on my fuse panel, this will be a God-send. I also have the Breeze seat racks that will help me remove the seat in a minute or two.

Anyway, I bought this NRG release about six months ago and was not really looking forward to the modification. Drilling into my new steering wheel and the beautiful FFR steering wheel boss was a little scary. Anyway, I'm thankful for my drill press and a good set of drill bits! I will say, that drilling through the steering wheel boss, reminded me of the afternoon I spent with Russ Thompson in his garage while he did his work on this boss for the RT Turn Signal mod. He will surely be missed by this community.

After about 2 hours, and a lot of centering, checking, double and triple checking, it all came together. I did have to do some further manipulation on the piece that attaches to the steering wheel as it was a little too proud. My bench belt sander took care of that in just a few minutes. I used NRG's Thin Quick Release (https://getnrg.com/products/srk-400?variant=37067024040086). Here's a few pics of the final. Sorry I didn't take any of the process.

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Then I moved onto the floormats I got from CoverKing.com (https://coverking.com/products/1965-shelby-factory-five-replica-mk-iv-floor-mats?variant=40427937530018&sub=All&main=floor-mats-premium-plush). I gotta say, although I would have liked a logo, these things fit perfectly and are super plush. CoverKing makes custom made for all Factory Five models and likely some others too. The only thing, is they came with only one grommet for the mats; the kind you have to "clip" in. I'd prefer a lock down clip. So, I decided to modify these floor mats with a lock down clip at the top portion of the mat and also the lower portion of the mat just after the step down portion of the footbox. I used these clips I found on Amazon:

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I am happy with the final results. Mats are tight, easily removed and I like the two tone against the carpet color. You can also see that I put a piece of angle aluminum at the corner of the step down. I think this will help in keeping everything tidy down the line.

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Next up: Custom Roll bar finish.... Not Chrome, not powder coated, not painted.

[Ted G]

The last few weeks I've been playing the waiting game for getting the body finished. I found the Silver Lining in all of this as it gave me time to fine tune a few things on the Cobra.



-First up was my roll bar and quick jacks. I have the Breeze 1.75" roll bar that was welded and I put on a brushed nickel look to closely match my side pipes from GasN. I also decided to make the quick jacks the same color/finish as the sidepipes. These are both sanded at 120 grit and then satin clear coated. I finished them off with a polish from my TORQ polisher.

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-Then I was able to finalize the transmission tunnel cover. I decided to not have an visible screws/bolts down the side of the tunnel. Instead I decided to make the four screws for the shifter ring bite into either the frame or strategically placed aluminum to secure the trans tunnel. I love how tight it is and the seamless leather on the sides. I was also able to install my fire extinguisher and mount as well.

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-I also attacked a few little punch list items like the door straps (Vinagroon), trunk mounted subwoofer and my Noco Genius built in trickle charger port. I wanted to be able to put the battery on a trickle charger without opening the trunk or hood. Lastly, I had a tiny little oil leak from my valve covers that I took care of with some high-end Felpro gaskets. While I had the covers off, I went ahead and turned my distributor around 180 degrees and removed the unused vacuum port for a cleaner look.

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-Next up will be other little punch list items like calibrating the speedo, making better access to installing (and uninstalling) the windshield, little touch up things etc. Hopefully soon, I'll get the call from Ken that the body is ready to mate up once again with the chassis. At this point I'm about 98% done with this car. The 2% left is after body is on. What's the saying? Let's Go Brand... (er Ken)!

[Ted G]

Well, after weeks of waiting, reconsidering my color choices, agonizing over it all, we finally have color!!!!

Here is the final primer shot:

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I chose a very dark blue for the body; Porsche's Night Blue Metallic
For the stripes, I chose Porsche's GT Silver Metallic

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Ken started with the stripes first. Stripes will continue under the hood and trunk. Stripes will be with same color 1/4" pins.

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Next was masking and then the body color:

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Tomorrow, the clear will go on which should make the colors pop quite a bit. Then, polishing etc.

I must say, like many on here, the color choice was the hardest decision to make on this build. Thanks goes out to my girlfriend Cristiana for helping with this decision; a woman's touch is always appreciated!! I am so excited to be on the verge of completing this build. This is my dream coming true!

[CABulldog]

Those colors look amazing it is going to be awesome.

[Ted G]

Paid a visit to Ken's Custom Auto Body to see her in person. Wow, looks perfect and hasn't even wet sanded/polished the final coat. Chassis goes up to Ken on Tuesday and I should have it back by next Friday! Dream coming true for sure!

Here's a few pics of Kens work:
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[JohnK]

Wow Ted, that looks spectacular! You must be thrilled. Can't wait to see it all put together.

[cc2Arider]

Those outside shots really look great!

Craig C

[John Ibele]

Yeah Ted, that color combo is classic and yet pretty darn fantastic. Nice job and congratulations. Gotta feel good to see it turn out so well.

[Ted G]

Well, I got her back from Ken's (Ken's Custom Auto Body) and started on the final assembly. Ride height has to be adjusted still and new door latches needed adjusting but now work perfectly. Roll bar grommets installed (That was a b****). I still need to install lighting, front aluminum panels, under door trim, finish carpet in trunk and adjust side pipes to hold position.

I did take her out for her first drive with body on. What a blast to drive her with a windshield, doors and a hood! I love the work that Ken and his team did on this paint. In case you were wondering, it is Porsche Night Blue Metallic and Porsche GT Silver Metallic. She even got her first wipe down with a detailer after the drive. Here's some pics:


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[toadster]

look SOOOO good!! :) congrats again!

here's the video I took of you getting out of the trailer - no sidepipes :cool:


https://youtu.be/e0Q8p40Wcwc

[cc2Arider]

Lookin' good Ted! :cool:

I just noticed your dash layout -- it looks like the Competition layout, but your "center" gauges really look centered on the car instead of being slightly offset to the Driver's position (like I've seen in other Builder's pictures). I like the symmetry -- nice touch :)

How do you like the gauge layout now that you've driven it some?

Craig C

[ydousurf]

Ted, your build is killer! The blue, as always, is such a winner! So many cool little touches and additions you did to take it over the top! Brilliantly bluetiful! Enjoy the miles of smiles you will no doubt get! Have fun and may safe roads always find you...

Oh, on a side note, I can't wait to see yours and Todd's cars in a pic together! :D

Doug

[Ted G]

Lookin' good Ted! :cool:

I just noticed your dash layout -- it looks like the Competition layout, but your "center" gauges really look centered on the car instead of being slightly offset to the Driver's position (like I've seen in other Builder's pictures). I like the symmetry -- nice touch :)

How do you like the gauge layout now that you've driven it some?

Craig C

Hi Craig,

I actually love the dash layout. Very easy to read and I just wanted the dash gauges to be symmetrical with the stripes as the gauges have stripes too.

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[cc2Arider]

Nice touch! I missed that in the 1st look :)

Craig C

[460.465USMC]

Hi Ted. I just saw John's video of your build at a recent cars and coffee. Congratulations! Sounds and looks absolutely fantastic! The Clecos are a nice touch. :p All kidding aside, I think you did a bang up job on your build, and so cool you're out driving it already. Enjoy, and thanks for taking us along throughout.

[Ted G]

Hi Ted. I just saw John's video of your build at a recent cars and coffee. Congratulations! Sounds and looks absolutely fantastic! The Clecos are a nice touch. :p All kidding aside, I think you did a bang up job on your build, and so cool you're out driving it already. Enjoy, and thanks for taking us along throughout.

Wow, thanks for the nice compliments Chris. Yea, the clecos under the door is my latest project I just finished and still finishing a few more things like radiator aluminum and cooler, trunk carpet and few more items. Just about to put up some more pics.

[Ted G]

The past 15 months of my build are quickly coming to a close. Not ready for graduation just yet, but making progress to completion!


This week I started off with lighting so I could get to the local Cars & Coffee somewhat legally. I am using the Lucas turn signals as I couldn't get my amber turn signal bezel to stay on without silicone. I also went with the Lucas Tri Bar headlights (replica) with LED bulbs. The vent covers are from Finish Line Accessories. I will eventually connect these to my footbox fans.

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The under door sills was a challenge to make them look good. I didn't want it carpeted, and I didn't want it to look too industrial. I found some aluminum stair bullnose at Home Depot that seems to work well. I powder coated it black and I think it blends in well. The Factory Five supplied aluminum I had powder coated about a year ago in Silver Vein. :

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Then I moved onto the trunk lid cover that I of course polished but kept a matching stripe line... then powder coated clear.

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I didn't want to pay $400 to have the quick jacks chromed or brushed nickle, so I did it myself (brushed steel with a clear powder coat) and she got her first official fill up at the gas station:

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Lastly, since the body has been on the chassis, I am finding harder to get my floor jack under the car at the right spot. Plus I have to be really careful not to let the body come down onto the floor jack. I bought these floor ramps for a whopping $64 online and they raise the front end (or rear) by about 3" and this is just perfect for me to get the jack underneath the car easier. I got them from Coilover Depot.

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Ted

[Ted G]

Yep, she got her first exposure to Cars & Coffee this past Saturday (well, with the body on anyway). She was at one other C&C in go-kart mode a few months back. Here a shot of that:

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But this time was with her almost completed. Were about 98% complete. Here are a few shots from the C&C Folsom this past Saturday:

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Next items for completion is radiator aluminum and oil cooler (power steering), trunk carpet (with stripes), and small adjustments to door hinges, idle mixture, and seat restraints. Thats it!

Ted

[JohnK]

Very nice Ted! Congratulations. Looks awesome.

[facultyofmusic]

Hey Ted nicely done on the door sills. I'm doing mine now and I might just use yours as a reference :P.

[cc2Arider]

Agree on the door sill treatment! Somewhat related, here's a powdercoat sample comparison I am thinking thru right now:186498

I also like the big vein "hammered" look and am considering this for all my Al panels :cool:

Craig C

Edit: uploaded the wrong picture -- Doh!!!

[Blitzboy54]

Great job, she's beautiful.

Welcome to the club

[Ted G]

A few more final tasks completed this weekend with a little more to go.

First, I tackled the front end aluminum. I am going to utilize an oil cooler but instead of using it for my engine oil, it will be for my power steering fluid. No real need for an engine oil cooler on this 351 block (stroked to a 427). One tip that Ken Pike gave me just before I was about to drill out the front of the body, "DONT DRILL INTO THE BODY"!!! The manual suggests riveting this aluminum in, but instead, use a bulb seal to seal that front lower piece in. It holds very well, and you keep the clean lines on the body without having rivets in there. Much cleaner look IMO. You may need to trim the aluminum just a bit. Always a much easier task with the right tools. Perfect cut in less than 30 seconds with this tool. Oil cooler will go in today. Here is a few shots:

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Last night, I tackled the rest of the trunk carpet. In hindsight, I should have done this before the body went on as getting into the corners is a tough task for sure! But, after a few hours of painstaking bending over, cutting, re-cutting, and glueing, it all came together. I am happy to say that my trunk is completed! The black carpet is factory five supplied and the striped carpet came from BassBoatseats.com and is Midnight Star grey. That is what I used in the cockpit of my car.

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On another note, I had a pretty easy day at the DMV on Thursday as I walked in with zero paperwork just to see if I could get a one day movement of vehicle pass. I walked out with a two month permit. So, I am officially legal to drive.

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I finally got my Carroll Shelby knob in the mail last week and installed it.... Pretty much the exact same as my last one, but with the logo on the side.

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[Ted G]

Yep, 427 side emblems went on today! I am officially done with my build. Yes, I know that we are never really done but this is the day I can say I don't have any more FFR boxes in my garage other than the spare parts box. I've accumulated about 300 miles on her between go-kart stage and now. I'm very happy with the way this build turned out and excited to put a bunch of miles on her over the years.

I'm proud to say that she was ordered on September 11, 2021.... 20 years after 9/11. I'm even more proud that she is graduating on the 4th of July!

Here's a few shots from today; Independence Day!

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Last two items installed.... Herb's panel; The pouch came from my leather jacket from the early 90's. And, of course, the 427 side emblem:

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Happy Fourth of July everyone!!

[maclonchas]

Ted,

You car looks great and the details you made to the car look amazing. Job well done!!!!!. Quick question for you on tires, what size and manufacturer?

Thanks

Bill

[Fman]

Ted,

Great job on your car! You really have put together an exceptional car with some really nice custom touches. I can't wait to see it up close, planning on hitting C&C this Saturday... hope you will be able to make it out.

[Mike.Bray]

Your car turned out amazing Ted. I wish I was as crafty as you! Great job!

[Ted G]

Ted,

You car looks great and the details you made to the car look amazing. Job well done!!!!!. Quick question for you on tires, what size and manufacturer?

Thanks

Bill

Hi Bill, these are Toyo R888 tires. Rears are 315/30-18 and fronts are 255/35-18. Thanks for the compliment!

[Ted G]

Ted,

Great job on your car! You really have put together an exceptional car with some really nice custom touches. I can't wait to see it up close, planning on hitting C&C this Saturday... hope you will be able to make it out.

Travis,

See you on Saturday. Maybe we can meet up and drive in together.

[Ted G]

Your car turned out amazing Ted. I wish I was as crafty as you! Great job!

Thanks Mike.... Uh, I think you are even more crafty! I've seen your build.

[cc2Arider]

A great build Ted! Thanks for sharing your build story and the helpful comments along the way :)

Craig C

[Ted G]

Well, I've racked up 700 miles as of last night's beautiful drive. I honestly cannot believe I've put that many miles on #10333... I don't even have plates yet!

I do, however, have a two month temporary permit here in California. California, believe it or not, is a very friendly process for these cars. SB100 (Senate Bill 100) allows 500 cars a year to be built, registered and can have a smog exemption if they are replicas of a pre 1974 vehicle. My sequence number is 103, so that means there is 397 spots left for 2023. California DMV requires three steps to the process. Brake and Light inspection, CHP (California Highway Patrol) VIN assignment, and BAR (Bureau of Automotive Repair) smog certification inspection. I am now just waiting for the BAR; this is where they certify a few things and attache the smog exemption sticker in the engine bay. I should soon have plates and will order my personalized plates at that point.

Driving this car has been wonderful thus far and I cannot wait to drive it again (tonight). I love all the waves, thumbs up and questions about the car I get. I've even had a few race challenges that I just laughed at... Mostly from Subaru guys! I drove this car without an alignment for about 400 miles; 200 of those miles was in go-kart stage just around my neighborhood and one Cars & Coffee event. I think I did a pretty good alignment from the Factory Five manual and although it was a little twitchy, it drove nice. However, now that I got a professional alignment, the car seems so much more stable, specially at highway speeds. I've gone to a few Cars & Coffee shows and probably doing my first car show in August. Here is a picture of at a local Cars & Coffee, I am proud to be parked next to a real CSX 289 with a real Carroll Shelby signature on the dash.
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I have a 427w with some pretty good upgrades to the motor - roughly 520 hp. I wanted to do an early oil change just to check things out during the break-in period. So, I did an oil change right around 150 miles and replaced the filter and oil with the same break-in oil (Comp Cams). During this change, I notices a very small oil leak on the passenger side of the oil pan. I am very confident that this is an oil pan leak, not a rear main seal leak. This weekend, I am going to change the oil and oil pan gasket and investigate a little further. I've decided to go with Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Oil with high zinc 10w-30. My engine builder recommended this as did Fman.

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Just a few issues have come up in the first 700 miles:

Of course the small oil pan leak is an issue that'll be dealt with this weekend
I also had a small leak in coolant line where it attached to the water neck. Changed the clamp and all was good.
I had some pretty good rattles in the door latches (new style). Some padding to prevent the handle from rubbing on the outer box fixed that.
Seems as if my doors sagged a bit after Ken completed the body. I adjusted and everything looks great.
I still have a little rattle behind the dash, so I will track that down at some point.
I originally thought my hydraulic clutch wasn't adjusted correctly because I had a very slight grind going into reverse. Searching the forum, I realized that this is somewhat normal in the Tremec transmissions. Going into first gear first or holding down the clutch for an additional second remedies that issue.
Side pipe sag. I think I fixed that with two metal zip ties around the rubber thingy.


Latest or Pending upgrades:

I love driving with my daughter, but he kept putting her hands on the paint to close the door. So I added leather handles to Herb's panels and problem solved. I also secured the panels with 4 rivnuts as they came loose a couple of times. See below pic.
I added 1" wheel spacers and I love the new stance! However, I did rub just a bit on the driver side, so I put a 3/4" spacer on that side and no more rubbing. For some reason, the driver side was about 1/4" further out than the passenger side. See pic below.
Thompson Performance Power Blast Plate install. This plate claims to atomize the fuel better during initial acceleration. We'll see. See pic below
Hood Rivets. Fman just did this and I love the look. I'll probably wait a bit for the paint to fully cure first.
I currently have my Koni (red) shocks set in the #2 adjustable setting. I love the stiff ride but on poorly maintained roads, it is a bumpy ride. Thinking about going to the #1 setting.


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Love my leather door handles, classic look too!

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This is the Thompson performance plates.

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Here is the before and after wheel spacers. I love the stance now!

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Just a couple more pictures in my driveway. Ride height was slightly adjusted (up in rear, down in front) just before alignment.

Building was sure a fun thing, but driving her is even better!!

[proeagles]

Beautiful car. When I went to the build school I noticed that car didn't sit centered on the chassis either and I've heard lots of discussion about that. Must just a little manufacturing issue and the offset wheel spacers was a good idea.

[GoDadGo]

Bravo & Well Done!

Be careful because these cars are a handful & snakes do bite.

[Windsor]

I originally thought my hydraulic clutch wasn't adjusted correctly because I had a very slight grind going into reverse. Searching the forum, I realized that this is somewhat normal in the Tremec transmissions. Going into first gear first or holding down the clutch for an additional second remedies that issue.


It wasn't until 80s (90s?) that transmissions even had a synchro on reverse. Sounds like Tremec (and predecessor) sorta made an attempt at making it work. Or, alternatively, us drivers are just trying to do it too fast.

Either way, I've developed a habit of dropping it into 2nd first and then "R" when driving manual gearboxes. 1st->R would also work fine.

[BornWestUSA]

Question on your SB100 experience. You did not have a "virtual" appointment with the BAR? Just an appointment for an "in person" appointment?? I'll be doing it in SoCal soon enough, just wondering.

[cv2065]

Just catching up on your build Ted. Outstanding job!! I'm installing roughly the same engine/trans combo. I didn't see any pics around the TKX mod where you reversed the shifter. Any issues hitting any cross members or tips on the switch?

[Ted G]

Question on your SB100 experience. You did not have a "virtual" appointment with the BAR? Just an appointment for an "in person" appointment?? I'll be doing it in SoCal soon enough, just wondering.

I did have the virtual one. If you make sure you have good pictures, you should be fine. It took me about 3 months for the in person appointment, but that was easy peasy. Got my plates the same day!

[Ted G]

Hey cv2065,

Thanks for the kind words. I think i do have the mod to my shifter. I went with a short shifter that ********** sells and made a bracket that leaned the shifter more forward. Below is a few pics. I did not have to cut the cross members for the shifter, but I did for the cup holders.

You can see in this first picture how the shifter is too straight upward.
190913

Then I made the bracket to tilt it forward.
190911 190912

Final look:
190914

Ted

[Ted G]

Well, after technically finishing the car on the 4th of July, 2023; I realized that we are really never done. As of yesterday, I officially hit 2000 miles.
190932

Another important milestone was getting through the California BAR appointments. The biggest hurdle was just waiting for the DMV to send me my SB100 certificate (3 months). I received it on a Monday and got my in-person visit to the BAR two days later. Then, I proceeded to the local DMV and got my plates the same day.... By the way, this was my birthday of all days!!
190927 190929

Very strange to have all my milestones on a special day or holiday. I ordered my kit on September 11, 2021 (20th anniversary of 9/11). I took delivery of my kit from Stewart Transport on April Fool's day (yea, I know) of 2022. My technical completion of #10333 was on the Fourth of July, 2023.... that is the day I put on the emblems. Lastly, my birthday was when I got my final BAR inspection and license plates!

Since the build was completed, I've a a few minor issues. First was an oil leak, that I fixed, but I still have oil seeping from my grommets on the valve covers. I am going to add an oil catch can and I purchased some Earl's breathers and PCV that I think will help with this problem.

I have also been trying to fine tune the carburetor in regards to the squirters and cam for the power valve. I found this much easier when using a vacuum gauge. So, instead of hooking up a vacuum gauge everytime i went to tune this, I'd just add one under the hood. I also wanted a mechanical Oil pressure gauge under the hood as my electronic one on the dash seemed a bit inaccurate. Moving this a bit further, I read up on adding a Air/Fuel mixture gauge could also help. I decided this was better utilized in the cockpit of the car instead of under the hood. Here is a few pics of the gauges:
190926 190925

Overall, I am having a blast driving this car (a lot)! I've since changed the oil, re-checked most all torque specs, scared myself twice, and left a mark or two on the pavement!! Not to mention a lot of Cars & Coffees, a few shows, and a few Cobra cruises with the local Sacramento group. I swear, I feel like a rock star everytime I drive this car.
190928 190931 190933

Ted

[maclonchas]

Pretty productive weekend in the garage working on #10333. While I am waiting a few parts to trickle in from various vendors, I decided to tackle my ignition switch. Like others, I wasn't really happy with the provided FFR ignition switch and tiny little key. I decided to purchase an ignition switch from CJ Pony Parts for a 1965 mustang. I am using the left side of the dash position for the switch. Here is the original FFR supplied switch and the Mustang switch difference:

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Because of the much smaller wires, I was worried about running the heavy amperage through the Mustang switch so I ran two separate relays for the Ignition and ACC feeds. I also have a "Ignition Switch" on my lower dash that is a kill switch for the ignition. Here is the wiring diagram (please excuse the handwritten diagram) and the relays after install:

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Cutting into the carbon fiber dash is a bit tricky, specially with the small anti-rotation notches.

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Overall, I'm very happy with the switch. I actually had to cut the spring on the switch as it was just too tight and made the key pretty hard to turn. Now, back to the motor!!


Ted

Ted,

I was going back through your build after seeing your post on your 2000 mile review. Still impressed with many of the mods you took on and your persistence with the overall build. A couple of questions on your ignition switch modification. I was looking at your diagram and wanted to make sure of a couple items on your diagram:
1) The ignition Switch is a SPST going to your Ignition Relay pin 86 (Correct?)
2) You do not use a master disconnect switch
3) The Fuse Box is the RF Fuse Box
4) What size hole is the ignition switch
5) Do you have a picture of the switch after the cutdown of the spring or how much of the spring did you cut down

Thanks for the help.

Bill

[Ted G]

Ted,

I was going back through your build after seeing your post on your 2000 mile review. Still impressed with many of the mods you took on and your persistence with the overall build. A couple of questions on your ignition switch modification. I was looking at your diagram and wanted to make sure of a couple items on your diagram:
1) The ignition Switch is a SPST going to your Ignition Relay pin 86 (Correct?)
2) You do not use a master disconnect switch
3) The Fuse Box is the RF Fuse Box
4) What size hole is the ignition switch
5) Do you have a picture of the switch after the cutdown of the spring or how much of the spring did you cut down

Thanks for the help.

Bill


Hey Bill, I hope I can answer your questions.

1) The ignition Switch is a SPST going to your Ignition Relay pin 86 (Correct?)Yes, nothing really changed in the diagram from the original switch that I can remember.
2) You do not use a master disconnect switch I have two master disconrect switches. The first is the battery disconnect switch (under my dash). The second is an ignition/fuel pump disconnect switch on my lower dash. Basically, this ignition switch cut off has the IGN wire going to it before the mustang key switch. The motor will crank, and everything will work when the key is in the ON or in the ACC position but won't start.
3) The Fuse Box is the RF Fuse Box Yes indeed
4) What size hole is the ignition switch hard question to answer. Simple answer is roughly an inch, but there are two small notches that keep the switch from rotating when you turn the key. I actually used a little JB weld back there to help if from turning
5) Do you have a picture of the switch after the cutdown of the spring or how much of the spring did you cut down. I don't have a picture of it that I can find, but I only cut down about a half of a circle in the spring.

Hope that helps

[Jpruss221]

Hi Ted,
Nice build very impressive! I haven't spent much time on the forum site but ran across your build then realized we are in the same area of Northern Ca. I lived in Folsom and El Dorado Hills for many years but moved to Fiddletown outside of Plymouth, you probably know of the area since your into wine. I started my build about a year ago (Mk4 #10387) and now finishing up trunk/panel work and electrical, hoping to install engine trans within the next couple weeks. Hope to meet you at Cars and Coffee in the near future.

Jeff R

[maclonchas]

Ted,

One other question for you on relay usage. I see you used relays for both the ACC and IGN circuits to the Ron Francis Fuse Box. Was the relay for the ACC circuit required or a safety factor for you?

Thanks

Bill

[Ted G]

Hi Ted,
Nice build very impressive! I haven't spent much time on the forum site but ran across your build then realized we are in the same area of Northern Ca. I lived in Folsom and El Dorado Hills for many years but moved to Fiddletown outside of Plymouth, you probably know of the area since your into wine. I started my build about a year ago (Mk4 #10387) and now finishing up trunk/panel work and electrical, hoping to install engine trans within the next couple weeks. Hope to meet you at Cars and Coffee in the near future.

Jeff R

Hi Jeff,

Good to hear that you are close by. You may want to join our Facebook group called: Sacramento Factory Five Builder's Group (https://www.facebook.com/messages/t/3884444508349296). It's a great group of guys who just love these cars. We just did a great drive up to Apple Hill this past weekend along with 12 of us. Yes, I know your area well. I'm at the Cars and Coffee in EDH often. Stop and say hello.

Ted

[Ted G]

Ted,

One other question for you on relay usage. I see you used relays for both the ACC and IGN circuits to the Ron Francis Fuse Box. Was the relay for the ACC circuit required or a safety factor for you?

Thanks

Bill

Hi Bill,

Yes, I used relays because the wires on the Ford Mustang switch are a much smaller gauge and I was afraid of burning them up under load.

[460.465USMC]

Hi Ted. Congrats on getting through the CA licensing process! You're not messing around with 2K+ miles already. Awesome. I love it. Thanks for posting the updates and the fresh pics.

[Ted G]

Well, I just hit 2600 miles over the weekend. I love driving this car when the weather is brisk. I had my brother and his family out for the Thanksgiving week and yes, I actually let him drive the car; first anyone else has driven it. I will admit, I was a bit scared and with the cold here in Nor Cal, the roads were a bit slippery. All went well though and he enjoyed the drive.

192667

I am contemplating a few things over the winter months #10333. Factory Five was kind enough to ship me out a new radiator at no charge as the original radiator sprung a small leak where the core meets the tank. First, I thought the leak was from a radiator hose on the bottom of the radiator. I replaced the hose and used the Gates Power Grip heat shrink clamps that I love so much. Much to my chagrin and after further inspection, I realized the leak was coming from the Rad. I checked for electrolysis as this could be the cause of a failed radiator, but no electricity running through the coolant. All my readings were less than .03 volts. Here's a couple of pics of the leak(s). I remember during my build, FFR was having some issues getting the radiators and may have used another supplier. This will be my priority project over the winter and I am also going to change out the radiator fan and have it switched. This fan is a little too loud for my taste and I would like to be able to shut it off when driving into a show or a cars & coffee.

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This past weekend, I was putting up Christmas lights on my house and I had to pull my car out of the garage to get to the lights. While I was on the roof, I noticed how cool my car looked in the driveway; So I took this picture and I'm thinking of having it blown up and framed! I just love it!

192670

Finally, just another shot of her sitting in the garage ready for the next chilly drive. Some projects I am contemplating are "hood pins", new oil pan gasket as I still have a very minor leak on the front seal, and upgrading my leather on the trans tunnel; the leather piece I used has a slight imperfection and it just bugs me. I also may have some stitching done on the edges.

192671

[Ted G]

Well, I got a few things done over the holidays and just a few more to go for the "Winter Projects". First thing I did was change out the leaking FFR radiator with a new one from FFR. They were gracious enough to send me another. While at it, I also put in another fan as the FFR one was just too loud for my taste, although worked great! I had a fan delivered from Flex-a-lite that was supposed to be quieter. Well, the first one delivered had a broken blade, and the second one had a weird "grind" once it was turned off; is was also about the same noise level as the FFR so I decided to try another brand. I went with a pretty generic brand that had about 300 less CFM. This fan was also $60 cheaper and I'll say, it is much quieter than both the Flex-a-lite and the FFR fan. I guess I'll see if it holds up and if the CFM changes anything. But honestly, my coolant NEVER got above 190* even on the hottest days. So I think having about 1500 CFM may just work out fine. I also made it much easier to remove just the fan without the shroud in the event I have to change it out.

194240 194239

Then I moved onto a small leak I had in my Aviaid oil pan. This leak was coming from the gasket near the rear and front seal. This is my second time in attempting this problem. I was told by Aviaid to use a 4 piece gasket, but a single piece would work too. They just recommend the 4 piece. Well, after the first failed, I tried a second 4 piece.... With that failing too, in the same spots, i decided to go with a single piece Fel-Pro gasket. Fingers crossed! I also change from the standard oil pan bolts to oil pan studs. This made it much easier to replace the gasket and pan from below. I made sure I used RTV in those problem areas.

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Next project is cleaning up the sidepipes and realigning them just a bit more with gaskets, spacers and wedges. I am also planning on putting the lower hood button heads like FMan did here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818-14-quot-Leather-steering-wheel&p=519115&viewfull=1#post519115

I have a few more tasks to do over the Winter like a good undercarriage and engine compartment cleaning, some adjustments on the interior and a double check of all critical torque specs. Since completed the car in July and finally getting it registered in October, I have driven it about 2500 miles (includes go-kart and pre registration miles) and have loved every minute of it.

Ted #10333

[Fman]

Sorry that Flex a lite did not work out for you, so far I have had really good results with the 3000 CFM wave flex a lite. The wave was so quiet I had to add a fan light on my dash to let me know it was coming on. Nice work on all the mods, fingers crossed for you on the oil pan keep us posted!

Was this the flex a lite you ordered?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-105390?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPpi9FMG-gPHHZYq8_EGQ_Ld3ev3yZ8gxigHiOWMHzoJ_QRYQR3hDtRoCKa cQAvD_BwE

[egchewy79]

you probably figured it out already, but put a dollop of RTV on both sides of the oil pan gasket at the front and rear rounded corners where the flat part meets the round part.

[Ted G]

Sorry that Flex a lite did not work out for you, so far I have had really good results with the 3000 CFM wave flex a lite. The wave was so quiet I had to add a fan light on my dash to let me know it was coming on. Nice work on all the mods, fingers crossed for you on the oil pan keep us posted!

Was this the flex a lite you ordered?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-105390?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1-6sBhAoEiwArqlGPpi9FMG-gPHHZYq8_EGQ_Ld3ev3yZ8gxigHiOWMHzoJ_QRYQR3hDtRoCKa cQAvD_BwE

I ordered the 236 which was the 2600 CFM fan. I figured the less CFM, the quieter. Anyhow, the FFR won was only 2150 CFM and worked perfect... just too loud for my taste.

[Ted G]

you probably figured it out already, but put a dollop of RTV on both sides of the oil pan gasket at the front and rear rounded corners where the flat part meets the round part.

Yes I did, thank you.

[Ted G]

Well, this is something I always thought about doing and after FMan did it here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818-14-quot-Leather-steering-wheel&p=519115&viewfull=1#post519115), I thought I'd tackle putting the button heads onto my hood. Instead of rivets, I decided to use stainless steel button head screws instead as they can be easily replaced and less likely they'll damage the paint. They'll also match the screws on the hood scoop.

I ordered the button heads and two carbon drill bits from McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/). Along with some blue tape, a ruler and a general diagram, I tackled this project.
194726

Carefully placing the tape onto the hood and measuring several layouts. Apparently, the FFR Hood is a bit narrower than what my schematic could handle. I also wanted it to look symmetrical within the stripes. I played around with different layouts including 14, 15 and 16 counts, but ended up using the 16 count as it seemed to layout the best. One thing I did notice was that the stripes were just a smidge more to the passenger side by about 3/16" which made me have to adjust the spaces in between on the bottom row just by about a 16th of an inch.

Here is my final layout before drilling into my perfect, beautiful paint:
194724 194725

I gotta tell you, drilling into my hood might have been the scariest thing I've done to this car. Was it going to chip, peel, or crack? What if my measurements were off? Anyway, I measured about 40 times to be sure. Adjusted here and there, but was happy with my placements. I started with a 1/16" pilot hole and then moved to the 5/32" bit.
194722 194728

After drilling, the real scary part was pulling the tape off. Next to doing the layout, this was likely my next slowest task. But, after careful removal, all holes were perfectly intact without any chipping or peeling of the paint.
194723

The screws went in perfectly. No need for a tap as the screws just tapped themselves into the fiberglass for a good, snug fit. These are also laid out in a manner where they don't protrude under the hood as they are with channel here:
194731

This project was actually a lot easier than I thought, just a little scary to drill into Ken's beautiful paint job! Here is the final product:
194727

[Mike.Bray]

That looks cool Ted. No way on earth I would have the nerve to do that on my painted car!

Funny story, been thinking about the screws and nuts holding the hood scoop on and my open stacks right under them. Today I went to the Borla website to order a set of "Bug Dome" screens that are "useful for keeping rocks and small animals from entering your engine" according to Borla. About $20 each so fair enough. The least expensive shipping option is $104! WTH?? I'm going to call them tomorrow and get that cut down.

[Ted G]

First of all, I will say I love my carburetor. This is a Holley 4160, 750 cfm with a vacuum secondary and electric choke. I know a bunch of you EFI guys will say "why don't you just go EFI?". I have no problem with EFI on these cars, it was just a personal choice to have a carb setup on my 427w. Plus I love the challenge of tuning it to perfection. I just crossed over the 3,000 mile mark on my car and I will say, the carburetor has been tuned perfectly with the addition of an underhood vacuum gauge and a AFR sensor and gauge under the dash.

Recently with the cold weather we have been having in Northern California, I was noticing the electric choke would just stay on for a bit too long and would come on or stick open during my drives. I adjusted, tuned and did a bunch of research on the electric choke. My research led me to a bunch of guys who just dumped the electric choke in lieu of an old fashioned manual choke for various reasons and so that is my plan. This project could have been done without pulling the carb, but I wanted to also check the setting of the butterfly valves and clean up the manifold and carb a bit and this gave me the access. Also the manual choke is a little finicky getting it all together and mounted, so removing the carb just made it much easier.

Manifold is cleaned up and waiting for the carb:

196569

The plastic cam on the e-choke was getting a bit marred and this may have been part of the reason is was sticking. You can see in this picture the cam wasn't even riding perfectly on the cam (arrow), but more on the edge of the cam. Likely the reason it was getting chewed up.

196565

Needless to say, I am excited about going manual and getting this carbed tuned with the new choke. I also reset all the mixture screws, curb idle screw, and the secondary screw so that I can reset the tuning for this carb. I also prefer the "look" of this set up and I will eliminate those two ugly wires that lead to the vacuum choke.

196566

e-choke removed and manual choke installed:

196567 196568

Here is a little video I did showing the action of the new manual choke:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qS2i9QZThA

I would not recommend going manual choke on a vehicle that multiple people drive, as each person will have to "learn" how to start the vehicle. However, this car is only driven by me and if anyone ever drives it, it'll be with me in the passenger seat. I will follow up after I get everything put back together, tuned and have a few miles on the new set up.

[Railroad]

I have no issues with a manual choke, having driven cars and equipment with it as standard equipment, but,,,,
It looks like your fast idle screw on the choke may have been off center on the fast idle cam, or the end of the screw had a sharp tip.
The fast idle cam does need to fall free when the screw is lifted off by throttle movement and the heated coil has reached temp. Many tuners put the screw tip too close to the cam on the off setting.
Good job!

[Ted G]

Well, last week I decided to remove the Holley electric choke (see above post). I just had trouble with it coming down off high idle and if I shut the engine down for 20 minutes and then restarted, the electric choke would kick back on.

Nevertheless, I finally got it all back together, retuned the carb and set up the manual choke to get just enough richness and fast idle to have great starts. Low and behold, this is the best!! I have full control of the fast idle with the knob and full control when to push the choke back in. Although it took some fine tuning to get it just perfect, it was pretty easy conversion overall.

My first start after fine tuning the cable was a perfect start on a cold day and I slowly pushed the choke back off. Today, I started it with a little warmer temperature and started perfectly again.

The hardest part was where to place the cable. I like to start my Cobra without getting into the seat, that is why I put a left hand key in. This was the best place to put the cable without changing my dash set up:

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I purchased three, yea three cables as I wanted to see what would work best in this area. I ended up using a choke cable made for a Toro riding lawn mower of all things. It had the perfect hard bend that I needed to get to the other side of the motor:

196869

Here is the final product with the clutch open, then shut. You can see that in the shut position, I had to leave just a small gap to allow the air flow without totally choking the motor:

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Lastly, just a shot of the engine bay with the firewall lights on:

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Overall, very happy with this Carburetor modification and having the ability to fine tune my starts and when the fast idle goes off.

[Ted G]

Having aluminum spats is one modification I have wanted to ever since I started seriously thinking about purchasing my Factory Five. The problem was I couldn't find anyone who made these spats for the Mark IV Factory Five body. Then I saw a post from Martin (magicmarto) who had them for sale on Facebook. At first, I thought he was just another scammer trying to take advantage of someone. Low and behold, a few well knowns of the FFR community vouched for him and I made the purchase and a few days later, I received them in the mail. Martin told me they were about 90% ready but would definitely need some more manipulation and trimming as every FFR body is a little bit different. Once I received them and did a test fit, I realized I still needed an English Wheel to make it fit perfectly.

I purchased an english wheel off of Amazon for $99. Yes, it's a cheap one but with a little manipulation and practice, it worked pretty darn good for finishing these spats. The spats definitely needed more curve, especially near the bottom outer edge. With a little more bend and some trimming, I think they look pretty good.

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Initial fitment shows a pretty large gap between the inner edge of the spat and the body wall (arrow pointing to this). After initial trimming and a little english wheel work at the outside edge and near the bottom, I felt it was a pretty good fit, but still not perfect.

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More manipulation with the English wheel and some fine trimming, I felt the fit was good. You may be able to see in the picture of the driver side spat (left), some markings from the wheel (even after polishing). Those marking need to be removed for sure.

197487

So, I started out with hand sanding with some 240 grit, then sanding with an electric sander with medium scotch brite pads and moving back to wet sanding on to 800, 1000, 1500 grit sandpaper. This took some time to get the marking out.

197488 197479 197480

After sanding, and polishing, the spats needing a bit more manipulation. I think the heat from polishing distorted them a little bit. A little more on the English Wheel, more sanding and polishing was needed. Once I thought it was as good as I could get, I added some 3M HVB double sided tape (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G63579Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) to the back side. I made sure the tape went right to the edge so that debris from the road would not be able to enter the small gap between the paint and the spat.

197481

Finally, I mounted the spat with a few (lots) of clamping. I protected the polished side with plenty of blue tape so not to mar up the polish and that worked pretty good. I used a heat gun to warm up the paint and spat a bit as I believe the bond would be better with a little heat added. I kept the clamps on for about 24 hours as advised. I was prepared to add a rivet or two if needed near the bottom; however, the tape seems to be holding really well thus far.

197482

Overall, I'm very happy with the results. It's been raining a lot here in Nor Cal recently, so I haven't seen this in the sun just yet, but here is a picture in my garage of the finished product.

197483

[Windsor]

Nicely done.

[toadster]

looks awesome Ted!

[cv2065]

Looks great Ted!

[Ted G]

I haven't posted in a while, but thought I would post a few cool pics of me enjoying what I created. I'm just over a year from completion of the build and I've already completed over 5,000 miles. I guess you can say that I'm driving her.

These were from a car show supporting cancer research:
203949 203948

4th of July Parade put on by the City of Folsom, California:
203951 203950


I've had a few issues, including oil leaks I had to chase down, a clutch slave cylinder blow out, leaky radiator (that FFR took care of), and a few little things here and there. Most recent problem was the float falling off of my fuel sending unit inside the tank. I love tinkering with the carburetor and I've done some tweaks and I feel that she's running perfect!

I really enjoyed this build, but I am loving owning a completed car! My girlfriend is happy to have me back too!

[cc2Arider]

Hi Ted,

I noticed in your 3rd picture what looks like your inner fender liner "doubling" as a road debris flap on the bottom. Was this a VRaptorWorks liner like the one Travis used?

Did you have to trim in a certain way for that or just move into that optimum position?

Craig C

[Ted G]

Hi Ted,

I noticed in your 3rd picture what looks like your inner fender liner "doubling" as a road debris flap on the bottom. Was this a VRaptorWorks liner like the one Travis used?

Did you have to trim in a certain way for that or just move into that optimum position?

Craig C

Good eye Craig,

Yes but I made those myself with a some moldable plastic sheets. I have them riveted to the aluminum and cut/molded them to fit. Very un-noticable and I think they help the debris from getting all over the paint and side pipes.