Just another LS in a Roadster. Final assembly after paint

[Jim Frahm]

:cool:Hello ALL!

I've been dreaming about building a roadster since the introduction of the MK II. I finally pulled the trigger in July and my kit arrives early next month. A little about myself. Degree in electronic engineering, followed by 20 years in the Air Force as an aircraft electrical and environmental systems craftsman. I retired in 2008 at the age of 44. I was always interested in machining work so I took a part time job at a local machine shop 5 years ago and I've been doing that ever since. I really enjoy building stuff and I can't believe they pay me to make parts.

Anyway, here's my planned build so far:

MK 4 complete kit
Body cutouts
IRS rear end
Powder coated chassis
LS 1 5.3L all aluminum engine with FiTech FI system
Tremec TKX 5 speed with a Quick Time bellhousing
Power steering
Hydraulic clutch
Brakes "????"
Wheels and tires "????"

I'm not looking to recreate a cobra. I want to build a hotrod that just happens to look like a cobra. I'm blacking out all the chrome and going with non-traditional wheels.

I purchased a complete rear end from a 2019 Mustang GT and that provided all the non kit items for the back end of the car including stock GT brakes and rotors. I purchased a motor from a local builder that specializes in GM motors and I ordered the trans, clutch, bellhousing from Forte's parts connection.

The photos will show you my progress so far. The first motor pick is how I received it from the builder and the rest show the changes I made. Upgraded the valve covers and creakoted them burnt bronze. The accessory drive system was cerakoted black to go with the blackout theme.

A big thanks to everyone that has posted their build, the info is very beneficial to all of us first time builders.

Jim

[Jim Frahm]

I haven't picked a color or scheme yet but I'm leaning towards the new Mustang Mach 1 color scheme. The wheels will be mat or burnt bronze. It'll have a single stripe with a bronze pin-stripe. However, all of this is subject to change once I'm actually ready to paint.

[Its Bruce]

Looks like a solid plan. Have you ironed out your header solution?

[GoDadGo]

Welcome Aboard Fellow Dark Sider!

The LS platform is a fantastic starting point, but you already knew that.
Consider putting your battery up front since that all aluminum LS is so light.
Remember that these cars have a rearward weight bias much like the Porsche 911 RWD.
Also consider upgrading the front brakes to the Cobra Style brakes from the earlier generation.

Again, Welcome Aboard!

Possible Front Brake Option For Cobra OE Style 13" System:
https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2300KB/1994-04-Mustang-Black-SVE-13-Cobra-Style-Front-Brake-Kit

[Qballz]

Congrats on your upcoming build. I too decided to go with an LS engine. My kit is scheduled to arrive some time in Oct '22. BPE LS3 530/495 with TKX should arrive around July '22. Currently sourcing wheels and all the miscellaneous items I plan on including. Look forward to watching your build progress.

[460.465USMC]

Hey Jim! Great to see you started a build thread. Subscribed! Also, really good to have another F5 builder in the neighborhood. You’re building what I wish I had the skill and cojones to pull off. Awesome!

Give me a ring when your delivery arrives. I’m happy to come over and help you unload everything.

[Hoooper]

What are the specs inside the engine? Id be a little bit weary of an engine builder that paints aluminum blocks to make them look more aluminum, hopefully your guy just does that for kicks

[Blitzboy54]

The engine is sexy, looks awesome. My build plan was very similar in terms of fit and finish. Welcome aboard

[Jim Frahm]

Looks like a solid plan. Have you ironed out your header solution?

I believe the full kit includes LS headers.

[Jim Frahm]

Welcome Aboard Fellow Dark Sider!

The LS platform is a fantastic starting point, but you already knew that.
Consider putting your battery up front since that all aluminum LS is so light.
Remember that these cars have a rearward weight bias much like the Porsche 911 RWD.
Also consider upgrading the front brakes to the Cobra Style brakes from the earlier generation.

Again, Welcome Aboard!

Possible Front Brake Option For Cobra OE Style 13" System:
https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2300KB/1994-04-Mustang-Black-SVE-13-Cobra-Style-Front-Brake-Kit


I will relocate the battery up front for weight and ease of wiring. I have a set of four piston calipers for the front that came off a Mustang GT but I’m not sure they will fit. I’ll look into it once the car is here. I haven’t ruled out the Willwood option because I really like the look but not so much the price and I think it’s over kill for a car that light.

Thanks for the link!

[Jim Frahm]

Hey Jim! Great to see you started a build thread. Subscribed! Also, really good to have another F5 builder in the neighborhood. You’re building what I wish I had the skill and cojones to pull off. Awesome!

Give me a ring when your delivery arrives. I’m happy to come over and help you unload everything.

Your on! You have about two weeks to change your number!

[Jim Frahm]

What are the specs inside the engine? Id be a little bit weary of an engine builder that paints aluminum blocks to make them look more aluminum, hopefully your guy just does that for kicks

The paint was a no cost option and I have the complete build sheet. Adding paint could be a mistake if it starts to peel and chip off. Time will tell.

[Hoooper]

The paint was a no cost option and I have the complete build sheet. Adding paint could be a mistake if it starts to peel and chip off. Time will tell.

Yeah sorry I was most curious about the build specs since that intake is going to want to be paired with a serious cam and headwork for high rpm so I was curious what kind of animal you had assembled there.

[Jim Frahm]

Yeah sorry I was most curious about the build specs since that intake is going to want to be paired with a serious cam and headwork for high rpm so I was curious what kind of animal you had assembled there.

The shop I bought the engine from “The Hot Rod Company” has been building engines for years and they ship them all over the US and Europe. They do all there own machine work. They port and polish heads with a five axis CNC machine and they balance and blue print each engine. They even balanced my crank with the flywheel. I told them what I wanted and they built it. I on the other hand haven’t built an engine in the last 28 years and then it was a 327 SBC. I’m relying on them to get it right. However, if there is an issue they are just on the other side of town. :D

I’ll post the spec sheet when I get a chance.

So far the most disappointing part of this journey has been the fact that a lot of the bits and pieces I purchased for this build come from China. Even brand name parts like AC Delco and GM. Do we make anything in this country anymore?

I got a call from Stewart Transport and they told me to call them March 1st for an update on my delivery.

[Jim Frahm]

I don’t know if this will be a build thread or a place to consolidate all my pleas for help? Either way, I will post some progress shots from time to time and post anything that seems unusual from other builds. Oh, and the kit arrives tomorrow morning.

[red.barchetta]

Picked my kit up yesterday in Montana and the Stewart driver (awesome guy!) left at 815am heading towards you!

[Jim Frahm]

Picked my kit up yesterday in Montana and the Stewart driver (awesome guy!) left at 815am heading towards you!

Awesome! Enjoy your build. I have my first two boxes inventoried, on to the next 23.

[Jim Frahm]

Let the inventory begin.

[red.barchetta]

Awesome to see others in this community into giant scale RC as well!

Congrats and good luck with the inventory. I am starting that today

[Jim Frahm]

Awesome to see others in this community into giant scale RC as well!

Congrats and good luck with the inventory. I am starting that today

That’s a Wilga that I built for a friend. I’m currently working on a 165” Hanger 9 Carbon Cub FX3 for myself. That plane is a monster.

I’ve noticed a lot of build thread photos with RC planes in the background. It’s a common theme amongst kit car builders.

My inventory is done. I have a few items missing and a few extra items that I’ll need to return, i.e. Wilwood peddle assembly. I guess they thought I wanted the passenger to have a set of peddles too.

[Jim Frahm]

The build is underway. Like many other's, I have a page and a half of POL items, so I'm working on five or six different things at once. Work until you need a missing part and then start on something else.

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I was able to borrow a body buck from another local builder and I added two shelves below the body to store the aluminum. This helps out a lot when working in a smallish garage.

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I spent some extra time deburring all the holes in the aluminum and body before installing the panels. I'm using a Noga deburring tool which makes quick work of it.

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I've read a number of threads that mentioned shortening the aft upper turnbuckle on the front upper control arms. I decided to do this as well. I took an 1/8" off each end and I didn't need to cut the rod ends, they didn't bottom out. I used my mini bench lathe and took minor cuts each pass.

I'm installing a hydraulic clutch and I haven't found any info on the install of the master cylinder. I assume it's just like the brake cylinders? Remove 5/8" from the threaded rod and install?

On to the next page!

[Jim Frahm]

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When installing the drive shaft adaptor I had two bolts that needed to go on a diet. A quick turn on the lathe and they fit perfectly.

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I finally found a good use for this pole that sit's in front of the air handler in my garage. I made a vise mount out of a tube that fit over the existing tube. It works great and didn't take up any bench space.

[460.465USMC]

Hey Jim. The attachments in your second post today (#22) don't go anywhere. May need to double check your links.

[Jim Frahm]

Getting the fuel system and brakes sorted out. The front brake lines are in and the fuel tank and fuel filter/regulator are in. I went with a in tank fuel pump from Aeromotive and the fuel pressure regulator is from a corvette. I will also run the proper fuel filter near the engine. 164698164699

The front brakes were easy enough. As you can see I used a standard brake t-fitting versus the one supplied with the kit. This way the brake lines lay closer to the f panel. I will do the same thing in the back. I also plan on using a one piece brake line from the master cylinder to the t-fitting in the back.

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I’m missing a lot of parts so I can’t finish the front or rear suspension or the steering so I’m going to install the motor and trans next so i can sort out the wiring and cooling system. I’ll pull the motor/trans once the wiring and cooling are sorted and then install the drivers side, inside panel, clutch and brake reservoirs, and the remaining engine bay items.

[460.465USMC]

Jim, you’re clicking right along, making good progress. Nice choice on the T-fitting — it really snugs the break line in close.

If you can use a grunt to push/pull on your drivetrain install, don’t hesitate to give me a call.

[Jim Frahm]

After making lifting brackets that mount on the exhaust ports and making spreader bars for the load leveler chains, the engine install was nice and easy for a one man show.

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Now I can work out the trans mount and then onto the forward firewall from FFMetal followed by the wiring harness (my favorite part).

[460.465USMC]

Really nice setup you made on the spreader bars and leveler chains! Wow. You’re making this look too easy.

P.S. Anyone who looks forward to the wiring task should consider a psychological evaluation. :p Just kidding. All in all I enjoyed the wiring as well…but was glad when it was over (well, almost over).

[Its Bruce]

What motor mounts are you using? Have any close up photos of them?

[Jim Frahm]

What motor mounts are you using? Have any close up photos of them?

They were supplied with the kit for an LS motor. They include a spacer/adaptor plate and the mount itself.

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[Jim Frahm]

Really nice setup you made on the spreader bars and leveler chains! Wow. You’re making this look too easy.

P.S. Anyone who looks forward to the wiring task should consider a psychological evaluation. :p Just kidding. All in all I enjoyed the wiring as well…but was glad when it was over (well, almost over).

Psychologist are standing by! The wiring will be easy, the integration of the FiTech EFI with the FFR harness maybe another story. Lots of reading to do.

[mosh1999]

I would love a pic from above to see the clearance from the FFR LS header to the driver's footbox.

[Jim Frahm]

I would love a pic from above to see the clearance from the FFR LS header to the driver's footbox.

Here you go. Here’s the drivers and passengers sides.

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[mosh1999]

Thanks!

[Its Bruce]

They were supplied with the kit for an LS motor. They include a spacer/adaptor plate and the mount itself.

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Thanks. Do the headers include an O2 bung?

[Jim Frahm]

Thanks. Do the headers include an O2 bung?

Yes, on both sides. I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the box and saw them already installed. Thank you FFR!

[Jim Frahm]

It's time to tackle the wiring. Having been an aircraft electrician in the Air Force, the wiring doesn’t scare me, however, that doesn’t mean I know what I’m doing this go around. The combination of a modern engine with EFI does complicate things a bit mainly because you have two ways of doing some tasks with the engine. After doing some reading it seams like the smart choice is to have the engine ECU handle the fan, fuel pump, and some system monitoring while the car harness handles the lighting, starting, and other engine monitoring. With that in mind, I decided to open up the harness and remove everything that’s not needed and also replace all the plastic wire loam with the split mess loam. I’m also replacing all or most of the bulky plugs with terminal blocks.

Power for the fuel pump will come from the EFI control system but the ground will still run through the inertia switch.

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[Fman]

I see your in the Spokane area, my uncle lives up in Spokane and my wife works in Redmond, WA. I spend quite a bit of time up there... summers are the best in WA and what a great area to have a roadster would be a blast to drive there.

Nice looking build! keep up the nice work.:cool: really enjoying following your journey.

[460.465USMC]

Next time you visit your uncle in Spokane feel free to give me a call, Travis. I would be happy to buy you a cup of coffee, or your favorite adult beverage. Even better, if you have time, I’d love to have you come by and give me some tips on my build.

[Fman]

Next time you visit your uncle in Spokane feel free to give me a call, Travis. I would be happy to buy you a cup of coffee, or your favorite adult beverage. Even better, if you have time, I’d love to have you come by and give me some tips on my build.

Will definitely let you know when I’m up there!

[1Down5up]

Newbie here. Kit is on order and I have about 8 months to get my engine/trans/diff sorted.
Nice build progress and excellent pics. What oil pan in on your LS and would you have any pics of the fitment around the pan?
Thanks in advance.
1

[Hoooper]

Newbie here. Kit is on order and I have about 8 months to get my engine/trans/diff sorted.
Nice build progress and excellent pics. What oil pan in on your LS and would you have any pics of the fitment around the pan?
Thanks in advance.
1

Not the OP, but there is a ton of space around the oil pan. The frame rails are 24" center to center so any normal car pan will fit fine, front or rear sump (though you should use rear). The only pans that may not fit would be the deep truck pans due to the depth, and the C5 batwing pans due to their outside width being 20.5". What pan do you have in mind?

[Jim Frahm]

Newbie here. Kit is on order and I have about 8 months to get my engine/trans/diff sorted.
Nice build progress and excellent pics. What oil pan in on your LS and would you have any pics of the fitment around the pan?
Thanks in advance.
1

Contact FFR and ask them for the LS install documents. They list the oil pan requirements. My original pan was too deep and I replaced it with a specific corvette pan they recommended. I also had to replace the power steering pump and brackets because it was interfering with the steering linkage. What engine are you planning to use? I can help you pick the correct accessory drive if needed.

If you don’t hear from FFR then send me your email address and I’ll send you a copy of the LS documents.

[1Down5up]

Thanks a bunch guys. I already have an LQ4 drop out that I plan on using. I'll be freshening it up and adding some goodies too. It came out of a Hummer H2 and I believe it has the deep truck pan.
I reached out to Dan at FFR for the LS instructions. Surprised I didn't see the LS download on the instructions page???

[Hoooper]

Thanks a bunch guys. I already have an LQ4 drop out that I plan on using. I'll be freshening it up and adding some goodies too. It came out of a Hummer H2 and I believe it has the deep truck pan.
I reached out to Dan at FFR for the LS instructions. Surprised I didn't see the LS download on the instructions page???

If you have the pan already you might as well just wait until its installed to make the decision. It is pretty easy to replace with the engine in the car, so you can take a look at how deep it hangs and make a decision.

[Jim Frahm]

I’m continuing with more dashboard wiring. I decided to use the Fuel Injection computer to run the fuel pump which freed up the car harness fuel pump relay for use as a Hi/Low beam control versus using the switch provided in the kit. In fact, I switched out all the kit supplied switches for push button switches that light up when pressed. I removed all the bulky harness plugs in favor of hard wiring and my dash will be a plug and play setup so it’s easy to remove if needed. I had to draw out all my wiring changes just to make sure I didn’t wire something wrong or muck it up. Anyway, here’s some in process shots. I should have it wrapped up early next week.

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[mcannon12]

What oil pan are you using? Thanks
-Matthew

[Jim Frahm]

What oil pan are you using? Thanks
-Matthew

Here's the pan, windage tray, and oil pickup that I ordered.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12558189
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12624497
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12624617

This is the pan that FFR recommends.

[Jim Frahm]

Here's the accessory drive setup I used. This is engine type and water pump specific so make sure you select the right one.

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https://www.ictbillet.com/ls-turnbuckle-alternator-relocation-bracket-with-ls1-camaro-power-steering-pump.html

[mcannon12]

Well shoot, is my stock truck accessory setup going to work in the Roadster? And if there is an LS instruction guide from FFR, that is news to me. Please send, or post a link to it. Thanks. -Matthew
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[Jim Frahm]

The dash wiring is coming along. I have most of the hard wired connections made but I’m leaving the wire loam off until after I function check everything. That may take some time because I’m still waiting on the light switch and head lights. I’m also going with a keyless push button start system which will get installed next. Here’s what it looks like so far.

[Jim Frahm]

Well shoot, is my stock truck accessory setup going to work in the Roadster? And if there is an LS instruction guide from FFR, that is news to me. Please send, or post a link to it. Thanks. -Matthew
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It looks like the alternator and power steering pump will be in the way of the steering linkage. The LS instructions don’t mention anything about the accessory drive, you have to work that out yourself. If you buy a LS engine from Blue Print motors I’m sure they have the correct setup. However, they don’t make it easy for those of use going the DIY LS route.

[mcannon12]

Weeeee! Spend it!
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[1Down5up]

Thanks Jim F for the accessory drive info.
I'll also be replacing the OEM truck intake and water pump next due to expected hood clearance issues and overall looks. What NA intake setup are you guys using, i.e. intake, throttle body, injectors?

[Hoooper]

Well shoot, is my stock truck accessory setup going to work in the Roadster? And if there is an LS instruction guide from FFR, that is news to me. Please send, or post a link to it. Thanks. -Matthew
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If FFR put their mounts anywhere near where I put mine you should be fine.

https://i.postimg.cc/RV9pcWpq/20210420-204050-1.jpg

[Jim Frahm]

Well shoot, is my stock truck accessory setup going to work in the Roadster? And if there is an LS instruction guide from FFR, that is news to me. Please send, or post a link to it. Thanks. -Matthew
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Just to be clear, I’m not sure if your setup will fit or not. You’ll know once you install the engine.

[Jim Frahm]

Thanks Jim F for the accessory drive info.
I'll also be replacing the OEM truck intake and water pump next due to expected hood clearance issues and overall looks. What NA intake setup are you guys using, i.e. intake, throttle body, injectors?

I’m using a FiTech system.

[Hoooper]

Thanks Jim F for the accessory drive info.
I'll also be replacing the OEM truck intake and water pump next due to expected hood clearance issues and overall looks. What NA intake setup are you guys using, i.e. intake, throttle body, injectors?

Shouldnt need to. There oughta be plenty of clearance for the truck intake if you want to use it, especially if you are planning to have a hood scoop. This intake is about the same height as a truck intake and it fits without a scoop. Though I really should get some info on where FFR decided to locate the engine since my mounts are custom and could potentially be lower than where FFR put it.

https://i.postimg.cc/MHzGkNJ7/20220106-223943-1.jpg

[Jim Frahm]

I see your in the Spokane area, my uncle lives up in Spokane and my wife works in Redmond, WA. I spend quite a bit of time up there... summers are the best in WA and what a great area to have a roadster would be a blast to drive there.

Nice looking build! keep up the nice work.:cool: really enjoying following your journey.


Next time you visit your uncle in Spokane feel free to give me a call, Travis. I would be happy to buy you a cup of coffee, or your favorite adult beverage. Even better, if you have time, I’d love to have you come by and give me some tips on my build.


Will definitely let you know when I’m up there!

This sounds like a Cobra and coffee meetup! It’s always appreciated when a fellow builder gives advice or a pat on the back,,,,, thanks!

[Jim Frahm]

Here’s the FI system I’m using.

https://fitechefi.com/product/ultimate-ls1-ls2-ls6-500hp-kit/

I have no experience with FiTech; this is what the engine builder chose for my application, but so far I’m happy with the quality of the fit and finish. I just hope it runs as good as it looks.

If you’re looking for recommendations then seek out experience builders and users. I don’t want you to spend your money based on my limited experience.

Good luck!

[Jim Frahm]

After helping Chris with his Coyote install, putting the LS in was a piece of cake. I’m still working on the ECU harness but it’s getting close.
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I’ve been getting POL items in from time to time but they have managed to ship the wrong drive shaft and rear springs so I’m waiting on those items again. I’m also waiting on my MIK items which includes the rear upper rod end. :( So, not a lot of progress on the rear end. I did finish up all the hard lines for the brakes and clutch. As soon as my rear brakes show up I’ll get those systems bled.

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On the upside, I did manage to get the correct oil pan installed. Also, the bell housing has a lip the runs the full diameter of the housing, that needed to be cut off on the bottom because it was well below the 4” chassis rails.

I’m not sure what to do about controlling the electric radiator fan? I can use the thermal switch or the ECU, or both. I already need a water temperature sending unit for the ECU and one for the temp gauge. If I also use the thermal switch then I need to find another location to install it.

Anyway, the more you do, the more you realize there’s more to do.

On to the next step!

[460.465USMC]

After helping Chris with his Coyote install, putting the LS in was a piece of cake.

Jim, did you at least tie one hand behind your back, and add a 15 min. penalty to make it fair? :p

[Jim Frahm]

All the engine wiring is complete, just some tidying up to do after the first start. I added some heat shield/insulation to the outside of both foot boxes. I really wanted to protect and or cover the brake line that runs to the rear brakes. I noticed others have run that on the inside of the foot box but because I used a single piece of SS brake line to run to the back, I took the easy way out and ran it on the outside. I ended up going with the Tilton 3 chamber reservoirs versus the FFR reservoirs. I like the fact that you can see the fluid level from the outside and all three reservoirs are in one location. The last couple of things I need to do is make the power steering lines and the cooling lines. 167917167916167915167914167918

Getting close!:cool:

[Jim Frahm]

Bolting parts to the chassis is the quick and easy part of building this car. It’s the little things that take up so much time.

I’m on my second dipstick and tube. The LS motor mounts used a spacer between the mount and engine. This puts it in the way of a normal dipstick. I had to bend the second one like a horse shoe to get it to fit. I may revisit this before the body goes on.

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I wanted to add a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. Instead of ordering one I decided to machine the AN fitting that was already there.

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Time to tackle the throttle cable next.

[Jim Frahm]

The factory five throttle cable wouldn’t work for my setup so I ordered a throttle cable with a clevis on the pedal end and a barrel on the throttle body end. However, the barrel was the wrong size so I had to machine that part as well.

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The cooling system is next.

[460.465USMC]

So much for a bolt-together kit, eh? Nice machine work, Jim!

[Jim Frahm]

So much for a bolt-together kit, eh? Nice machine work, Jim!

These are definitely not puzzle piece kits, but that’s also what makes them fun.

When are you going to push the start button Chris?

[460.465USMC]

I'm whittling away at the Before-Start-To-Do list and it's getting smaller. I don't think I'll make it by the holiday, but maybe later next month.

[Jim Frahm]

After spending several days trying to figure out why I wasn’t getting any spark or fuel, I contacted FiTech and we went over everything I had done up to that point. It was decided to return the ECU. I just learned that they reset the software and everything is working as it should and they are shipping it back to me. In addition to that, I also just received the last of my POL and MIK items,,,, ��! I’m currently working on installing the 5 wire to 4 wire adapter. I received that after I already hardwire the harness by removing all the connectors. Now I get to cut into the harness and install the adaptor.

I also received the wheels I ordered 9 weeks ago.
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There’s a lot of things I could do but I find myself at a standstill until I get the engine running. Hopefully that’s the next big hurdle to get over.

[460.465USMC]

Good news on the ECU, Jim! Looking forward to first start.

[Jim Frahm]

Good news on the ECU, Jim! Looking forward to first start.

The weather has been so nice that I needed to buy a convertible so I could enjoy it. I’ll pick it up tomorrow and then plan a trip to your place. 171691171692

The wheels will be the first thing to go.

[460.465USMC]

Saweeeet, Jim! You know I share your affinity for Bowties, and a Vette to boot! Can't wait to see it. Please bring it over at your first convenience.

P.S. I washed the SS this afternoon. It had been way too long, because, er, I've been busy in the garage with something else. :p

[Jim Frahm]

https://youtu.be/yf2z2Fd47wI



Finally got it running. Turns out the ECU programming needed to be saved for each change you make on the screen. I was changing several items on the screen and then saving it. :p Durning this short run I noticed number 5 cylinder was not firing so I still have some work to do but at least it runs.

[460.465USMC]

Awesome! Congrats, Jim! I think the sweet engine rumble was rumbling your phone. Either that, or it was just as happy as you to hear it come to life! Way to go.

[Blitzboy54]

Yeah Man! Nothing like that first start.


Congrats on a major milestone.

[John Ibele]

Nice work, and nice to still see a fist pump from someone who's clearly done this a time or two.

Dang, those first starts with bare headers inside a garage. I'll use the excuse that I've got the 4 into 4 headers, which means I have to have the side pipes on for the O2 sensor. :)

Congrats, Jim!

[Jim Frahm]

Nice work, and nice to still see a fist pump from someone who's clearly done this a time or two.

Dang, those first starts with bare headers inside a garage. I'll use the excuse that I've got the 4 into 4 headers, which means I have to have the side pipes on for the O2 sensor. :)

Congrats, Jim!

Open headers isn’t the smartest way to go but I couldn’t wait any longer. I’m still waiting on my Gas-n-pipes. They are in ceramic coating right now and should be shipped soon. �� In the mean time, there’s lots to do to get ready for the first go-cart.

[BRRT]

Congratulations on the first start! Sounds great! it's unfortunate that you had issues with the ECU, but it's good it was taken care of.

Could you get a couple pics of the cooling hose routing? Did you plumb the steam lines from the heads?

Thanks!

----------------------------

Jeff

[Jim Frahm]

Congratulations on the first start! Sounds great! it's unfortunate that you had issues with the ECU, but it's good it was taken care of.

Could you get a couple pics of the cooling hose routing? Did you plumb the steam lines from the heads?

Thanks!

----------------------------

Jeff

The issues with the ECU was actually user error I’m afraid. When I was updating the initial engine settings you have to save to ECU for each line item and I was doing it by the page. :o

I have steam lines ran in the back between each head and between the two at the front of the heads and that is also plumbed into the radiator. The way you run the radiator hoses will depend a lot on which water pump you use.


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[BRRT]

The issues with the ECU was actually user error I’m afraid. When I was updating the initial engine settings you have to save to ECU for each line item and I was doing it by the page. :o

I have steam lines ran in the back between each head and between the two at the front of the heads and that is also plumbed into the radiator. The way you run the radiator hoses will depend a lot on which water pump you use.


171868171869171870171871171872

Thanks for the pics. Beautiful work!


-----------------------
Jeff

[red.barchetta]

Sorry didn’t see your reply!

I’ve been flying mainly aerobatic stuff for the last few years (120-200cc) but have slowly been getting into the bigger warbirds. I have a Ziroli Spitfire lined up once the roadster is done.

Build is looking awesome!

[Jim Frahm]

The car was delivered in March, first start in August, and ready for the first test drive in November. However, it’ll have to wait until the weather changes a bit. Not a record setting build but still pretty quick for a first time builder I think! It hasn’t been without issues like leaking brake lines, leaking power steering rack fittings, etc, but all in all not too bad. It would have been quicker if I’d stop making changes to the build. I’m sure none of you guys do that.

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I have all the wiring done with the exception of some minor tidying up and I decided to go with an electric emergency brake so that’ll have to be installed and wired in as well. Currently I’m installing the light switch, LED dimmer switch, and turn signal switch below the dash. I like the looks of a clean dash but I can always relocate them if I find it annoying. The four push button switches on the lower center dash are for the Horn, High Beam, Fan (manual control), and E Brake.

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[Jim Frahm]

Now that I’m waiting on the weather for my test drive, I can finish installing the sound mat followed by the carpet and then the seats. It looks like all the body work will have to wait until next year.

Here’s a quick shot of the E brake I’m going with.

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Tell next time!

[Its Bruce]

I can't tell from the photos; does the crank pulley sit above the 4" cross tube? Or would it, if the pulley OD extended toward the front of the car? The accessory kit with my crate engine extends much further than the crank pulley, but I haven't installed the engine yet.

[460.465USMC]

Wow, it's changed a lot since I last saw it, Jim. You are making good progress, indeed. Looking good.

[Mike.Bray]

Here’s a quick shot of the E brake I’m going with.

174762

I installed one of those, you can see it in my build thread, and love it. It comes with a loud and very annoying buzzer for when it is actuating. If you don't like it as I didn't you can just snip the wires.

[Jim Frahm]

I can't tell from the photos; does the crank pulley sit above the 4" cross tube? Or would it, if the pulley OD extended toward the front of the car? The accessory kit with my crate engine extends much further than the crank pulley, but I haven't installed the engine yet.

174809174810

I ended up raising my engine about an 1/8” for bell housing clearance. I added washers behind the spacer provided with the kit. That may or may not be needed with your build.

[Jim Frahm]

I installed one of those, you can see it in my build thread, and love it. It comes with a loud and very annoying buzzer for when it is actuating. If you don't like it as I didn't you can just snip the wires.

Mike,

Thanks for the link to your build. That’s given me some more options for the E Stopp location. Initially I was planning to mount it on the transmission mount but now I’ll have to look into the trunk area as you did. I’m running an IRS so I don’t know if that gives me more or less room.

Thanks again,
Jim

[maclonchas]

Jim,

I know this post is a little old, but am interested in your wiring changes made and how you split between the LS engine and the RF harness. If you don't mind, could you post the wiring diagrams you did for this build. I am just looking at them for reference and like the idea of getting rid of the plugs wherever possible.
Thanks

Bill

[Jim Frahm]

Jim,

I know this post is a little old, but am interested in your wiring changes made and how you split between the LS engine and the RF harness. If you don't mind, could you post the wiring diagrams you did for this build. I am just looking at them for reference and like the idea of getting rid of the plugs wherever possible.
Thanks

Bill

Hello Bill,

There’s not a lot of integration between the engine harness and the car harness. The engine harness is pretty much stand alone as is the car harness. You have options as to which harness will run the fuel pump; I choose the engine harness for this task, and you of course use the car harness for engine start, lights, etc. Depending on the gauges you use will determine which parts of the harness you’ll use. I removed all the connectors and redundant wiring just to clean up behind the dash. It was just a mater of hardwiring everything in versus using connectors. I do have connectors between the dash and harness so I can easily remove that.

A lot of this will make sense once you get started. Don’t be afraid to ask questions once you get to this part of your build.

[maclonchas]

Jim,

Thanks. I am still months from getting my kit and appreciate the guidance. I am setting up folders for each section with build tips and threads specific to each portion of the build. I hope this helps me in the long run so I am not chasing ghosts on the internet looking for the information I read months before and cannot locate it with a google search.

Bill

[Its Bruce]

174809174810

I ended up raising my engine about an 1/8” for bell housing clearance. I added washers behind the spacer provided with the kit. That may or may not be needed with your build.

Just a quick update after stabbing the engine and trans today - I need to raise it about 3/4" to get the steel blast shield closer to the frame rails. I'm not entirely sure how to it but I see there are 3/8" aluminum spacers made for Coyote swaps and I may be able to use washers between the block and the mount to gain another 3/8". The good news is that my crank pulley and accessories do not interfere with my front-mounted ABS module.

[Jim Frahm]

Just a quick update after stabbing the engine and trans today - I need to raise it about 3/4" to get the steel blast shield closer to the frame rails. I'm not entirely sure how to it but I see there are 3/8" aluminum spacers made for Coyote swaps and I may be able to use washers between the block and the mount to gain another 3/8". The good news is that my crank pulley and accessories do not interfere with my front-mounted ABS module.

My kit came with spacer plates that fit between the block and motor mounts (see post 29). How about your kit?

[Its Bruce]

My kit came with spacer plates that fit between the block and motor mounts (see post 29). How about your kit?

FFR wasn't supporting the LS engines when I bought my kit (2014). I used Dirty Dingo LS Mustang swap mounts.

For reference:

175251

[Springsyeti]

Looking good!

[VKannan]

Reviving this thread quickly to see if you can give me some guidance. Do you think this accessory drive will fit based on your experience?

https://paceperformance.com/i-6485405?q=19421445

This is the motor I have:
https://paceperformance.com/LS3-430HP-Pace-Performance-Crate-Engine-with-Tremec-TKO-600-5-Speed-Transmission-Package-GMP-TK6LS430.html

Appreciate your input!


It looks like the alternator and power steering pump will be in the way of the steering linkage. The LS instructions don’t mention anything about the accessory drive, you have to work that out yourself. If you buy a LS engine from Blue Print motors I’m sure they have the correct setup. However, they don’t make it easy for those of use going the DIY LS route.

[Jim Frahm]

Reviving this thread quickly to see if you can give me some guidance. Do you think this accessory drive will fit based on your experience?

https://paceperformance.com/i-6485405?q=19421445

This is the motor I have:
https://paceperformance.com/LS3-430HP-Pace-Performance-Crate-Engine-with-Tremec-TKO-600-5-Speed-Transmission-Package-GMP-TK6LS430.html

Appreciate your input!

I checked the measurements and I believe your PS pump will be in the way of the steering linkage. My PS pump sits higher and next to the water pump pulley and there’s about 2” of clearance.

Hope that helps.

[VKannan]

Very helpful, thank you!


I checked the measurements and I believe your PS pump will be in the way of the steering linkage. My PS pump sits higher and next to the water pump pulley and there’s about 2” of clearance.

Hope that helps.

[Jim Frahm]

Time to brake in the cam and run through a heat cycle.


https://youtu.be/m095W16TeKo

[Jim Frahm]

I finally got the E Stopp installed. It took me a couple of weeks to finish this task mainly because I couldn’t decide on where to mount it. I settled on mounting it to the transmission brace. I machined a stand-off for the front mount and used aluminum L brackets for the rear mounts. This lifts the E Stopp 1 1/8”. This puts less of a bend in the cable and easier routing over the 4” round crossmember tube. I welded a bracket to the tube to support the cable exiting the E Stopp. I use the term “welded” loosely as I am not a welder. Anyway, now that this task is complete I can finish installing the parking brake cables and close up the parking brake handle opening.

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[Jim Frahm]

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[Jim Frahm]

The E Stopp is installed and working. I added a piece of Phenolic to prevent the parking brake coupler from rubbing the trans tunnel brace.

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After that I worked on the rear wiring harness. I removed all the plastic wire loom and installed the split mesh loom which matches what I did to the rest of the wiring. I also made a bracket to support the fuel lines going into the fuel filter/pressure regulator. Now I’m ready to install the final piece of aluminum in the trunk.

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[BRRT]

Hey Jim,

Great progress, the E-Stopp fits in there nicely! Are your rear brakes the Ford 13" Mustang setup? Did you get them from FFR?
I didn't specify brakes on my order, trying to figure out what I'm going to do there.

[Jim Frahm]

Hey Jim,

Great progress, the E-Stopp fits in there nicely! Are your rear brakes the Ford 13" Mustang setup? Did you get them from FFR?
I didn't specify brakes on my order, trying to figure out what I'm going to do there.

I bought a complete rear end from a 2019 Mustang GT and that came with the brake calipers and rotors. I only paid $1K for the rear end (basically a drop out with the subframe) and that included everything I needed that wasn't supplied with the kit. I believe the rotors are 13" and the calipers are a single piston. My feeling is, if it's good enough for the GT then it should be good enough for the MK4. However, it's easy enough to upgrade if needed.

[Jim Frahm]

The trunk aluminum is in and the cubby opening between the seats has been cut. I used a cheap nibbler from Amazon and it worked out well.

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Not sure why the photos rotated 90*?

[Jim Frahm]

178748

[Jim Frahm]

It’s time to install the fuel tank vent “charcoal filter” and I was wandering if this is a good location?


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[Jim Frahm]

The coffee cup holders are cutout and now the trans cover is ready for covering. I think I’m going to go with a leather cover.

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Now that the important job is done I can finally move on to other things…

[460.465USMC]

Right on, Jim. As the bumper sticker says, "Outta my way. I need a Latte"! Looking good.

Did the circle cutter work okay?

[Jim Frahm]

Right on, Jim. As the bumper sticker says, "Outta my way. I need a Latte"! Looking good.

Did the circle cutter work okay?

Yes sir! I'm finished with it so if you need it back in a hurry I can bring it by anytime. If you're not in a hurry then let's plan on meeting at Five Guys some Saturday and I'll buy you lunch?

Thanks!

[Jim Frahm]

Being able to machine your own parts is a lot of fun and it’s also very satisfying. It doesn’t matter if you use a hacksaw and file or a bench top lathe and 3 axis CNC machine. I needed a bracket to hold my oil catch can to the back of the engine head on the passenger side. I didn’t want to mount it on the firewall because that’s tucked under the body and I wanted easier access. So, I drew up a simple sketch after some measurements and then drew it up in CAD.

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After that I mounted the angle aluminum in the vise and hit cycle start.


https://youtube.com/shorts/NqIpY0r6gRk?feature=share

[Jim Frahm]

Here’s the final results. I made the 1/2” aluminum standoffs on my mini lathe which is perfect for this task.

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All I need now is another piece of hose and this job is done.

[Jim Frahm]

Why do the photos turn 90 degrees after adding them to your thread?

[OB6]

Jim - really nice build. Quick question - did you use the FFR firewall or a firewall forward from FFMetal (or similar)? I can't tell. Asking because I'm interested in the space between the back of the LS and the firewall.

[Mike.Bray]

Why do the photos turn 90 degrees after adding them to your thread?

The short answer is because you're taking them with your phone.

One way to correct them is copy to your computer, open in Paint, and resave them. Your computer will fix the orientation for you.

[Jim Frahm]

Jim - really nice build. Quick question - did you use the FFR firewall or a firewall forward from FFMetal (or similar)? I can't tell. Asking because I'm interested in the space between the back of the LS and the firewall.

Thanks!

Im using the firewall forward kit from FFMetal. I like the thicker metal and the extra room behind the dash, especially with the glove box. There’s still plenty of room behind the motor too.

[OB6]

Thanks!

Im using the firewall forward kit from FFMetal. I like the thicker metal and the extra room behind the dash, especially with the glove box. There’s still plenty of room behind the motor too.

Awesome, great to know. Thanks.

[Jim Frahm]

https://youtube.com/shorts/h5stuWbX4e8?feature=share

I got the first test drive/GoCart out of the way today and it was every bit as exciting as I thought it would be. I did an eyeball alignment and I could tell early on that it wasn’t that good. I’ll have a four wheel alignment done before the next outing.


https://youtube.com/shorts/V0ylIAsG-WY?feature=share

Sorry for the poor video quality. I was filming with my cell phone.

[BRRT]

Congratulations Jim! Very cool, quite an achievement!

[OB6]

Looks and sounds great Jim. Question... it looks like you altered one of the cross members on the top of the trans tunnel. Yes? Are you running a midshift on the TKX? Curious abiut what your setup is.

[460.465USMC]

https://youtube.com/shorts/h5stuWbX4e8?feature=share

I got the first test drive/GoCart out of the way today and it was every bit as exciting as I thought it would be. I did an eyeball alignment and I could tell early on that it wasn’t that good. I’ll have a four wheel alignment done before the next outing.


https://youtube.com/shorts/V0ylIAsG-WY?feature=share

Sorry for the poor video quality. I was filming with my cell phone.

Love that sound, Jim. Keep up the good progress. I look forward to the day when we can drive our Roadsters together on some of our local windy roads.

[Jim Frahm]

Looks and sounds great Jim. Question... it looks like you altered one of the cross members on the top of the trans tunnel. Yes? Are you running a midshift on the TKX? Curious abiut what your setup is.

I’m running the TKX trans with the shifter in the forward position of the stock location. I removed the interfering cross member then welded mounting tabs on it and then relocated it slightly aft. I don’t think it’s necessary to re-install it but why not if it’s easy enough.

[OB6]

I’m running the TKX trans with the shifter in the forward position of the stock location. I removed the interfering cross member then welded mounting tabs on it and then relocated it slightly aft. I don’t think it’s necessary to re-install it but why not if it’s easy enough.

Great solution. Makes me wonder if I should remove that piece before sending the chassis to powder coat. And then bolt it back in when and where I need it.

[Jim Frahm]

WOW! I let this thread fall all the way back to page 5..... YIKES.

Okay, so I spent too much time playing with the C6 convertible and no time on the Roadster. However, I recently sold the C6 and now it's time to get the Roadster on the road. I started by making a simple clutch pedal stop bracket and got it mounted. I added a piece of rubber hose to the 1/2" post to prevent metal on metal contact.

192107192108192109192110

Now that the C6 is gone I have room for the body and chassis in the garage. I was thinking about doing the body work but have since started looking for someone local to take on that task. My hope is to find someone that will knock the seams off, fill, sand, and then get the body in primer. Then I'll mount the body, doors, truck, and hood so I can drive the car while waiting for a painter. Anyway, there's still lots of little things to do on the chassis before I can all it finished.

192111

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jim,

Wowsers! No one responded to your post...but I really like your pedal stop bracket! Simple, effective, and well done :)

Did you weld your round tube to your angle "iron" piece? Or drill, tap, and bolt?

Craig C

[460.465USMC]

Great to read you're back on the build, Jim. Very nice clutch stop! One of these years I need to learn how to weld. That skill opens up a whole new horizon of possibilities on a build.

[Jim Frahm]

Hi Jim,

Wowsers! No one responded to your post...but I really like your pedal stop bracket! Simple, effective, and well done :)

Did you weld your round tube to your angle "iron" piece? Or drill, tap, and bolt?

Craig C

Thanks!

I drilled a hole in the L bracket and then welded it on both sides. I'm thinking about making another one that is even easier to install and doesn't require holes in the 3/4 square tube; that was a bit of a pain to drill because of it's location. Anyway, thanks again.

[cc2Arider]

Hi Jim,

"clamp" design instead?

Craig C

[OB6]

I was thinking "clamp" as well, similar to how I mounted my gas pedal (and actually how the Breeze gas pedal is setup). See post #28 in my build thread.

[Jim Frahm]

Hi Jim,

"clamp" design instead?

Craig C


I was thinking "clamp" as well, similar to how I mounted my gas pedal (and actually how the Breeze gas pedal is setup). See post #28 in my build thread.

I like what you did with your pedal. I ended up using the factory pedal because I’m also using a cable.

Anyway, I’ll build a test piece and show you what I’m thinking. 🤔

[Jim Frahm]

Here's the clamp on pedal stop I came up with. It's super easy to install and adjust with just one hand/tool.

193372193373193374193375

I just test fitted it on the trunk hoop because I didn't want to take mine off. I would use this one if I hadn't already drilled the holes for mine. This one is on it's way to OB6.

[OB6]

It's a great design, simple and effective. Thanks Jim!

[Jim Frahm]

I'm sure this is a Happy Milestone for everyone building a FFR kit!!!!!

THE CARPET IS DONE!

It was actually a lot more fun than I anticipated plus there's a lot of instant gratification after every piece. I'm still waiting on additional carpet to finish the cubby divider but all the kit carpet is in.

I also swapped out the kit seatbelts for something a little smaller and easier to get in and out of.

198097198098198099198100198101

I'm in the process of machining seatbelt flanges where they pass through the rear bulkhead. They will be my own design with no hardware seen once mounted.

I also trimmed the wheel arches and filled in the lip behind the arches. Once the weather warms up I'll pull the body outside and sand and undercoat the underside of the body. Once that's done I'll be ready to fit the body.

[GoDadGo]

Well Done Fellow Dark Sider!

[ggunter]

Jim your build looks great. Nothing like having an analytical mind to figure out the speed bumps of a build. This is a bit off topic, but we have a common hobby. I noticed in your opening page a large RC plane with canisters hanging from the ceiling. Do you fly much? If your buying planes of that size with canisters you have been flying for a while. They are not cheap. It's very easy to take a 35 or 40% plane out for flying and have something go wrong or a mechanical failure and have a $5000 day. But as all fellow RC pilots know if you're going to fly, you're going to crash. Some days you hang your head and do the walk of shame with trash bags in hand to the crash sight. I too like large scale RC and have been flying successfully since 2008. I don't fly nearly as often as I used to since I got my car. But this year I have promised myself to get back into flying. Can't wait to see your car all done. 198173

[460.465USMC]

Looking good, Jim. I like the border around your cubby opening. I’ll need to get a closer look at that when I see it in person next time. I assume you fabricated it? Also intrigued to check out your seat belts. Let’s go for a drive….soon! :D

[Jim Frahm]

Looking good, Jim. I like the border around your cubby opening. I’ll need to get a closer look at that when I see it in person next time. I assume you fabricated it? Also intrigued to check out your seat belts. Let’s go for a drive….soon! :D

Check this out!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?47933-How-to-finish-off-the-Cubby-Hole&highlight=cubby

[ggunter]

Looks like another niche market for Cobra parts. People would buy that cubby trim.

[Jim Frahm]

Jim your build looks great. Nothing like having an analytical mind to figure out the speed bumps of a build. This is a bit off topic, but we have a common hobby. I noticed in your opening page a large RC plane with canisters hanging from the ceiling. Do you fly much? If your buying planes of that size with canisters you have been flying for a while. They are not cheap. It's very easy to take a 35 or 40% plane out for flying and have something go wrong or a mechanical failure and have a $5000 day. But as all fellow RC pilots know if you're going to fly, you're going to crash. Some days you hang your head and do the walk of shame with trash bags in hand to the crash sight. I too like large scale RC and have been flying successfully since 2008. I don't fly nearly as often as I used to since I got my car. But this year I have promised myself to get back into flying. Can't wait to see your car all done. 198173

I’ve been flying a little bit of everything for decades but now I fly mostly contest gliders. The large scale Wilga you see hanging in my garage is a plane used to tow scale gliders.


198197

[ggunter]

The club I belong to has a segment of the club that likes and fly's gliders. They use a 40% cub as a tow plane. I myself have a couple of powered gliders. No tow plane needed but of course they aren't as light so shorter flight times, at least the unpowered time. But then power back up and do it again. I find gliders so relaxing.

[Jim Frahm]

I came up with my own design for the shoulder seat belt trim rings. I like the "No Hardware" look. What do you think?

These are photos of the first two ops.

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[Jim Frahm]

Here I've added the belt slot and drilled and counterbored the holes for the rivets. As you can see I'm using a tab mounted to the 3/4" tube to hold them in place.

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[460.465USMC]

Awesome, Jim! Those turned out really nice. Even better to have seen them in person. Very nice touch, and will complement your Breeze cubby trim surround. I'm jealouse.

[Jim Frahm]

I have had the body on and off a few times trying to get the correct fitment. I even enlisted the help of a fellow builder Chris. The first thing I learned is; the body is not symmetrical so don't try to make each side fit exactly like the other. The second thing is; I'll have to adjust the radiator mount to get the spacing correct for each front wheel arch. I also had to trim the back and side trunk panels so the body could slide forward a bit to get the correct fitment of the door opening and striker plate. My question is: does bulb seal get added to the lowest step on the trunk floor between the trunk side pieces? If I missed that in the manual then by all means tell me to look again!

Here's the progress so far. The underbody is painted and the side louver opening are cut to the proper size and location; for the most part. 200991200992200993200994

Thanks Jeff K for providing a side louver pattern so I could make a router template.

Jim

[Jeff Kleiner]

...My question is: does bulb seal get added to the lowest step on the trunk floor between the trunk side pieces?

Yes, it gets bulb seal.

Jeff

[Jim Frahm]

Here's the body progress so far:

1. The body is moved forward for the correct spacing of the door opening and door striker plate.

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However, moving the body forward and opening up the factory holes for the roll bars has produced a large gap forward of the roll bars. Is this normal?

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2. The front of the body was moved over. Measured from the upper shock tower to the wheel arch. The difference now is less than a 1/16th".

The hood opening is not centered on the upper 3/4" tubes. I believe this is normal and a non issue with all the adjustment you have with the hood hinges.

3. Light wiring is almost complete. I'm using Deutsch connectors.

201653

[Jim Frahm]

Now it's on to the most feared part of the build, or dreaded part of the build...... Fitting the doors, hood, and trunk.

[Jim Frahm]

It’s now ready for the body shop and paint.


https://youtube.com/shorts/LZDPuiz9fNs?feature=shared

I’m still undecided on a color.

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, Jim! Amazing how many small details at the end have to be worked through to get to this point. Looking good!

[OB6]

Looks great Jim. I have to say that's the part of the build I'm looking forward to least. But seeing yours all fitted gives me some inspiration.

[Jim Frahm]

Congrats, Jim! Amazing how many small details at the end have to be worked through to get to this point. Looking good!

So true. I think you actually build this car twice because of how many times you take something off and then put it on again.


Looks great Jim. I have to say that's the part of the build I'm looking forward to least. But seeing yours all fitted gives me some inspiration.

I hear ya! Just knock it out one piece at a time and before you know it,,, it’s done. I decided to wrap the headers with heat shield tape so shortly after that video I have the car back on jacks and I’m removing the exhaust system. It’s much easier to do with it out of the car.

[Jim Frahm]

I finally picked a color and I dropped the car off at a local paint shop here in Spokane. It’s called Shark Gray Metallic.

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[egchewy79]

congrats! you just completed the most difficult part of the build! ;)

[Jim Frahm]

The car is finally painted and ready for final assembly. HOWEVER, after picking it up from the paint shop I noticed they moved the sides of the car outward from where I initially set it up. That meant my side pipes where a little too close to the body. I ended up adding a 1/4" spacer in-between the header and side pipe. I also machined new side pipe brackets that not only moved the pipes away from the body but also filled the gap between the bracket and exhaust hanger. BTW, mine where spaced different from left to right so I made different size spacers. I know the rubber hanger can handle the flex but why not make them to fit if you're making them anyway.

First, a sneak peek of the color.

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Here's a look at the original bracket and the new brackets I machined.

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[Jim Frahm]

Short video of the car after final buff and polish.


https://youtube.com/shorts/JOKQp21Ofwo?si=Z4oi6Z2P9QrBrgMJ

[TrackDay17]

That looks really nice ! I love that color !

[danmas]

Amazing!

[OB6]

Jim, that looks outstanding. What color is it?

[Jim Frahm]

Jim, that looks outstanding. What color is it?

For the GM folks it's called Shark Gray Metallic and for the blue oval folks it's called Fusion Gray. I'm so close to being done,,,, kind-a sad really.

Winter is just around the corner here in the PNW so there's no graduation until next Spring.

[OB6]

For the GM folks it's called Shark Gray Metallic and for the blue oval folks it's called Fusion Gray. I'm so close to being done,,,, kind-a sad really.

Winter is just around the corner here in the PNW so there's no graduation until next Spring.

Well I think that color may have entered my short list, and given my build, I'll go with Shark Gray. I've been looking at different gray or gunmetal colors, and this one is stunning. Can't wait to see it in natural light.

[Jim Frahm]

I'm about 95% there. I still need to set the final ride height, finish the lower door trim, and some minor trim work around the hood opening. For now, I have it on rollers and pushed next to the wall in the garage so I can park my daily driver during the winter months.

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Awaiting Spring.

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[Jim Frahm]

I know why I like viewing some threads more than others,,,, it's the larger photos that you don't have to click on to open up. Those pesky little photos are a pain and they interrupt your viewing pleasure.

It's taken me three years to finally figure out how to increase the size of your photos. Now I'm going back through my thread and changing all the photos.

:cool:

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[460.465USMC]

Agreed, Jim. It's a time commitment to post the link to the picture instead of attaching, but worth the effort IMHO. Looking goooooood!

[OB6]

Wow Jim, that looks soooo good.

[Jim Frahm]

Wow Jim, that looks soooo good.


Agreed, Jim. It's a time commitment to post the link to the picture instead of attaching, but worth the effort IMHO. Looking goooooood!

Thanks guys! I can hardly wait until it's parked out in the sun, the garage photos don't do it justice. I'm so close to finishing this car that I'm already looking for another project. Not necessarily a kit car project either.