Order Of Assembly / Aluminum

[GT53]

Hi All…….Do any of you experienced builders out there have any suggestions regarding the order in which the aluminum panels are installed? I am in the process of fitting, trimming, drilling the aluminum, and as such I have put on and taken off some of the aluminum pieces a few times and it seems that I always end up struggling to get a panel into place. I’m not the brightest bulb in the chandelier so even when I take note of how a panel goes on, or off for that matter it becomes an exercise in frustration all the while scratching up the powder coat on the frame.

I searched around the forums but wasn’t able to locate any documentation as to the best order to install aluminum so if any of you guys have such a list or any input I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance for all the assistance.

Greg

[Al_C]

The FFR manual offers an excellent guide on panel order. I know, I know, lots of folks go off on their own, but for aluminum panels I believe it's best to follow the sequence laid out in the manual.

[facultyofmusic]

I agree with Al_C here. To add on to that, use a sharpie to trace out all the overlapping edges and place of contact with frame vs other aluminum panel. Personally I've shaded in all panel-to-steel regions and left all panel-to-panel regions with just the outline. It's helpful down the line when you'll want to distinguish between the two. The sharpie wipes down easily with acetone, so no worries about permanent stain there.

[CaptB]

I had mine powder coated. Just take your time, step back before you rivet and look at the manual and ask yourself does this look right?

For instance there are some overlaps that look better one way over another but the book as far as looks are the best, that is except here. If you're not sure just come back and ask this group.

[Tbev]

I did as previous posts have said and followed the manual. I did leave off the tranny cover, drivers side footbox outside piece and footbox top. Those, especially the footbox pieces, should go on much later in the build to give you access. I also ran all of my brake and gas lines before installing the aluminum.

[Scott Zackowski]

As others have stated, I found these helpful:

1) Build manual instructions very helpful.

2) Use painters tape to protect the powdercoated frame while fitting the Aluminum panels. Also useful to prevent scratches on the Al panels that will be exposed after the build is complete. These will be in the engine compartment.

3) Use Clecos to temporarily hold panels in place. You will need several 1/8" and a few 3/16" size. These are very helpful in fitting and mocking up the panels before and during riveting.
The clecos are strong. You can even Go Kart the build with panels still cleco in place.

4) Some of the Al panels should not be riveted in place until the end of the build. Being able to remove the panels is very helpful to gain access to the drivers footbox and under the trunk floor, for access to the pedal box and when running wiring, brake, and fuel lines.

5) Panels I remember not permanently attaching until near the end of the build (remember you can just temporarily hold them in place with clecos include:

Top and Outside of driver footbox
Top of transmission tunnel
Large rear panel behind seats
Top and Lower trunk floors

Pictures to follow!

[Scott Zackowski]

When you click on them they should orient properly.


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[txboiler]

When you click on them they should orient properly.



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Scott. Like the photos and the drop trunk mod you did on the trunk. I was looking at the brake reservoirs in the last photo. Are those the final position? They look high. I have my caps sitting flush with the 3/4” tube they are mounted to. They gravity feed the master cylinder good but I wish mine were bit higher for ease of removing cap. Will yours clear the the body?

[Scott Zackowski]

Scott. Like the photos and the drop trunk mod you did on the trunk. I was looking at the brake reservoirs in the last photo. Are those the final position? They look high. I have my caps sitting flush with the 3/4” tube they are mounted to. They gravity feed the master cylinder good but I wish mine were bit higher for ease of removing cap. Will yours clear the the body?

No drop trunk mod. Early Mk4's came with the trunk as you see it.
Brake and Hydraulic clutch reservoirs were just temporarily raised to give better clearance for engine and header installation. Mine are flush with the 3/4 tube as well. But in reality once the body is on there is plenty of clearance. See pic shot thru the hood scoop opening. The most important thing is to place the reservoirs as close as possible to the driver foot box, inorder to clear the hood strut, which can be seen in the pic as well.

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Another pic of the temp position

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Also the above pic shows the overflow tank in a temporary position as well. Its final position was on the cross member.