MB750's MKIV Roadster build thread

[Jeff Kleiner]

Are you sure that the flywheel and starter tooth count are compatible? Ford used a couple of different combinations.

Jeff

[MB750]

Are you sure that the flywheel and starter tooth count are compatible? Ford used a couple of different combinations.

Jeff

I'm pretty sure, but not 100% sure. Dead battery, so we push started it, and a bad throwout bearing so he did clutchless shifts. Technically I never heard the starter crank the engine over.

I know I've got it all torn apart, and parts are on the way, but in the meantime I'm gonna slap the spacer plate, flywheel, and bellhousing back up, install the starter, and physically observe what's happening when I hit the key. I just did a bench test on the starter and the bendix certainly shoves the gear out.

Oh, and I also ordered a new spacer plate. Since I watched a few videos of swapping out flywheels in the Windsor it's cheap enough to warrant "while you're in there" mentality. That and mine's kinda beat up, which can cause a bad starter alignment apparently.

[MB750]

Did a little troubleshooting today. With my hat in my hand I have to admit, it was working fine. Turns out, cranking over a Ford Windsor with absolutely no sound deadening or paneling to block noise, they are substantially louder than when I cranked over the 302 in my Mustang (or my current Coyote in my F150). I put the bellhousing spacer, flywheel, and starter on and watched the starter engage through the trans hole. Sure enough, it was spinning the flywheel like a boss, I just wasn't expecting it to sound so clanky and metallic. There's a chance the marred up teeth on the flywheel are adding to the metallic sound.

Oh well, it's not like I didn't need a new flywheel and hi-torque clutch anyway, and now I'll have a spare starter. And now I know how to remove the trans. Live and learn.

[MB750]

Starter and flywheel swap testing video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PDax0RRGqs


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PDax0RRGqs

I am so glad I swapped out these parts!

[MB750]

Since I had the tranny out, might as well get that parking brake out of the way:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184502&d=1684102676

Had to fab up a few bits to make it work:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184503&d=1684102676

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184504&d=1684102676

That location makes much more sense to me. Thanks Jeff for the inspiration.

[MB750]

New clutch, spacer plate, and flywheel installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184592&d=1684273880

[MB750]

Getting that mess back in the chassis, needed a little help opposing Newton's latest invention:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184633&d=1684363238

I figured this crane is good for 500 lbs at full extension, so 2X full extension would pic 75 lbs.

I used ratchet straps on the front and rear of the trans so I had the option to adjust its level as it was raised:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184634&d=1684363238

Both at level, bellhousing loosely bolted into place:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184635&d=1684363238

Transmissions always slide in better when the clutch plate is free:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184637&d=1684363238

Yahtzee!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=184636&d=1684363238

I have to admit, that worked really well. Way better than muscling it into place with a friend. This Craigslist shop crane has paid for itself multiple times over!

[MB750]

https://youtu.be/Wdaj3qNNxQk


https://youtu.be/Wdaj3qNNxQk

[MB750]

It's Alive !!!!!

https://youtu.be/zw2A0ZPrHvY


https://youtu.be/zw2A0ZPrHvY

I hurt my lumbar last week so I'm moving around kinda weird.

For some reason I couldn't go through the gears. I'm not gonna stress over that right now though. It ran, I'm happy.

[zarnold]

Nice, Very Nice! Congrats!

[MB750]

Thank you. I'm gonna fiddle with it some more today. I think the trans wouldn't go into gear because the synchros never had a chance to slide in because there was nothing stopping the output shaft from spinning. Right now it'll go through all the gears, but for some reason it wouldn't when it was running.

Ill put the rear wheels on and run it again.

BTW, that smoke is the crappy headers I bought. "Heat-resistant" paint my backside... I certainly got what I paid for there...

[Morrisett]

Looking good, pretty common from my experience for new headers to smoke as the paint initially bakes in. Not sure what brand you bought but i am betting it clears up after you let it get up to operating temp.

[MB750]

The brand is "no-name knockoffs from eBay", and yes they're starting to smoke less. There's one spot on the bend in the #2 cylinder exhaust tube that must have had thicker paint because it's bubbling a bit. I retrospect I should have bought the chrome ones from LMR.com for a little bit more cash.

[MB750]

Today I monkeyed around with that clutch a bit. Turns out it was never fully disengaging, which is why I couldn't get it into gear. I grossly underestimated how much preload you need to put onto a throwout bearing. Now I'm at the point where I have full disengagement with the pedal on the firewall, then about 2" up it starts to catch. I'd like it higher, but I'm damn near out of threaded rod to adjust.

I also might look into a smaller slave cylinder. I'd like the linear actuation distance to be greater. To get that you need a smaller cylinder on the slave side. I know I'll have to push the clutch pedal harder. I just like a narrower friction zone in the pedal travel.

I won't do anything until I get some miles on it though. Right now the clutch mating surface to the flywheel is brand new so it's gonna feel weird.

Oh, and I had a nice surprise. Completely cold engine, a couple pumps of the throttle, and hit the key. It barely got one revolution and was running!

[MB750]

Now I'm certain what the issue is with my clutch.

Yesterday I did some research. Turns out, having a slightly larger master cylinder (MC) on the clutch is a very good idea to get good linear stroke out of the slave cylinder (SC). My clutch MC was a freebie during my inventory. It was just tossed into a random box. When I dug into it yesterday, that freebie has a 3/4" piston. The SC I got from Daze Cars is a 7/8". Referencing hydraulic theory, no wonder I have to adjust the threaded rod like I do! The smaller MC piston is making clutch lever action really easy, but the friction zone in the pedal sweep is almost the entire sweep and the SC barely strokes an inch.

So I ordered a Woodward 1-1/8" MC from Summit (and some spark plug cables). Should have those in later this week, and that should make quick work of my lazy clutch issue. I know it'll be harder to press the lever. I'm not worried about that. I want a narrow friction zone.

[MB750]

Guess which one feeds the clutch now:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185306&d=1685740821

[MB750]

Got the new clutch MC plumbed up and bled. Now when I push down the clutch pedal the seat slides back! :p

[Jeff Kleiner]

Originally Posted by MB750
Now when I push down the clutch pedal the seat slides back!

That doesn't sound like it'll be much fun to drive in traffic.

Jeff

[MB750]

That doesn't sound like it'll be much fun to drive in traffic.

Jeff

LOL, yea. I'll bolt them down after I get the body and doors on. From what I've gleaned off this forum, don't bolt the seats down until you know exactly where the top edge of the door and body are.

I might drive one bolt through during go-kart, just to be safe.

[MB750]

May 2023 Progress Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlBKtxmYWoY


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlBKtxmYWoY

[Fman]

Nice update, not sure if you are aware but Boig Motorsports makes a really nice upper and lower cooling pipe, far superior to the FFR hose they give you, highly recommend.

https://boigmotorsports.com/product-category/cool-tubes/

[Mike.Bray]

Nice update, not sure if you are aware but Boig Motorsports makes a really nice upper and lower cooling pipe, far superior to the FFR hose they give you, highly recommend.

https://boigmotorsports.com/product-category/cool-tubes/

I used the upper coolant pipe from Boig and it fit & worked very well. For the lower I used one from Breeze along with his support. Could not recommend going to these over the FFR ones more.

[MB750]

Thanks for the link. I may go that route in the future, to clean up the engine bay, but for now I'm getting tired of expenses outside the scope so I'll stay the course for the time being.

[MB750]

I fabricated an idler pulley for the engine this weekend:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185667&d=1686516284

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185668&d=1686516284

I know I probably wouldn't get any belt slip on the water pump, but now there's zero chance of it.

I should have worked on the dash, but this was more fun.

[MB750]

The position of the brake switch was always irritating me. It's too close and activates the light too late. I know I could move the brake lever, but I like where it is and don't want to move it. So I drilled a small hole in the plastic end, drive a small wood screw in there, and now it's perfect.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185679&d=1686529838

Similar issue with the clutch switch, so I stole this idea from the Coyote design:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185680&d=1686529838

I was a little inaccurate with the angle iron so I had to do the wood screw thing there as well. :o

[MB750]

Had a fun weekend with paint. Got all the new brackets I fabricated over the last couple weeks painted:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185994&d=1687118198

Made a new oil pressure tap with a tee. The one from the donor engine was too large, and ugly. And this one has an extra tap for the turbo:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185995&d=1687118198

I brought the throttle pedal mount off the firewall about 2.5" for better articulation and feel. MUCH better now:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185996&d=1687118198

And I finally got around to finishing the carbon fiber dash skinning project. This is the clear coat drying. Today I sanded out all the holes, wet sanded with 400 grit, and laid down the two-part clear for UV protection:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185997&d=1687118198

[MB750]

Here's the full thread on the carbon fiber dash skinning project:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46558-Skinned-my-vinyl-dash-with-carbon-fiber

[MB750]

June 2023 Progress Video:

https://youtu.be/21qMP9fo-Nc


https://youtu.be/21qMP9fo-Nc

[MB750]

I was sick and tired of these crappy "high temp painted" headers smoking me out of the garage every time I started the car. It may have burned off eventually, but I'm not interested in putting up with it anymore. This is what they looked like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187269&d=1689552230

That black coating flakes off in really little pieces that get all over. It's not removable either. I tried everything, even aircraft stripper that works on 1995 vintage Ford Mustang paint. Nothing put a dent in it. So, in the garbage they went and were replaced with the chrome version:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187270&d=1689552230

These new ones fit perfectly too. No grinding or modifying the holes anywhere. Can't say that for the black ones too.

[danmas]

That looks much nicer. Well done.

[MB750]

Did a crude alignment today. Diggin' the clearance around the caliper with these 18's:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187521&d=1690064751

Then this happened...

https://youtu.be/DhwmQd1jP7I


https://youtu.be/DhwmQd1jP7I

[MB750]

I could buy some 18x8" wheels, have them powder coated, get some 225's, and have a couple spare tires for the rear for around $1000 in total. That's probably the route I'll go, but I'm not letting this stop me from go-karting. I'll barely be going 40, and God only knows how much the previous owner beat on these wheels in this condition. They'll hold, but I don't want to live with it for very long.

[BRRT]

what a disappointment....

[Jeff Kleiner]

Where did the wheels come from?

Jeff

[MB750]

Where did the wheels come from?

Jeff

They came off the donor. They had a little curb rash, but nothing I couldn't sand down to clean up. This was just me trying to reuse as much as possible. Saving a couple grand on wheels made sense. At least the other three are true.

The solution can go down two roads:

As I mentioned, get some of the same wheels only this time I'll get a pair of the 8" ones just for the front, have them powder coated the same color, and use them on the fronts with 225 width tires for good clearance.

OR, just go all in. Completely new and different wheels, narrower front, 10.5" rear, 17" diameter, Fox length axles, and all new rubber. Cruising around the LMR website and I kinda fell in love with those Mach 1 wheels:

https://lmr.com/products/mustang-sve-2003-2004-mach-1-syle-wheels-94-04

[Jeff Kleiner]

225 isn’t much tire.

Jeff

[MB750]

That's true. Initially I was under the impression that anything larger than 225 would rub. As I'm finding out:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=187781&d=1690283638

This is my 255 on a 9" wheel. I suppose maybe under the stresses of use on a road at speed might tweak this a little, but at least it's only rubbing on a flat, smooth surface. Not like it's the edge of a panel or chassis member that could cause tire damage.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Don't make more of this than necessary Matt. 245/45 will kiss the F panels...as will 255/40 and 275/40 but we're talking only when you are at pretty much full lock. I run 275/40-17 on the front of mine without rack limiters and can't remember the last time I felt them touch. It's just not an issue in everyday use unless your everyday use involves lots of parallel parking in tight spaces or making about a 10 point turnaround inside your garage (which I have done :D). Ride height and alignment will change the tire to panel interface by a little but again, it's really not an issue and not something that I'd let dictate a decision on tire size. If it really concerns you just snap a couple of rack limiters on it.

Jeff

[MB750]

Thanks for the feedback Jeff. I've got peace of mind now that I can maintain my current wheel and tire width up front, which means I'll only need to buy one wheel instead of two. Assuming I don't trip over a few grand for those Mach 1 wheels.

And if I swapped them all out I could get the 10.5" wide rears (and the Fox axles kit) to give me maximum rubber contact out back.

[MB750]

1st Go-Kart!!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188051&d=1690757399

1.5 miles around the neighborhood. Barely got out of 2nd. I'm still having trouble figuring out the starting sequence. It's always warm, but the last two times I've tried starting a cold engine I've flooded it. Easy fix (half open throttle, crank starter, VROOM!!!) but I'll get it eventually.

I was taking a video, but the mount wobbled around a lot and there's lots of wind noise so I'm not even uploading it. I fixed the mount, and I'll figure out a way to reduce wind noise then try again.

[MB750]

July Progress Update Video:

https://youtu.be/lTiJE5TEs08


https://youtu.be/lTiJE5TEs08

[MB750]

Some of you may have caught my comment in the video about having a coolant leak in the block. It's a head stud, I'm sure of it. I drained the whole system (and pulled the block plugs) and jerry-rigged up this pressure testing thingy to see if the cooling system holds air:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188394&d=1691343388

Completely pulled the bottom studs and just loosened the upper ones:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188395&d=1691343388

This should be enough:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188396&d=1691343388

Now air it up and see what happens:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188397&d=1691343388

The only concern I have is if the cap isn't 100% air tight it might let some air weep out. We'll see.

[Peeker]

I’ve heard you mention it a couple times but apologize, I haven’t followed your entire build, if you are gonna swap to Fox Body Axles, contact Richard at NorthRace Cars. I bought his axles and caliper re-locators. I have 10.5 inch wheels and 315’s on the rear.

[cv2065]

Hey Matt. I'm on the west side of Orlando if you ever need a second hand. We'll have to hook up sometime.

[MB750]

I’ve heard you mention it a couple times but apologize, I haven’t followed your entire build, if you are gonna swap to Fox Body Axles, contact Richard at NorthRace Cars. I bought his axles and caliper re-locators. I have 10.5 inch wheels and 315’s on the rear.

I'll probably buy that kit (and new wheels and tires as well) but that's down the road a few miles. As of right now it's mobile and I want to completely finish the car under the original design before any large and expensive changes.

[MB750]

Hey Matt. I'm on the west side of Orlando if you ever need a second hand. We'll have to hook up sometime.

Thanks for reaching out. Coming up this winter I'll be putting the body on to begin the fiberglass work. I'm certain I could use some experienced assistance in that regard. I can pay in smoked BBQ and beer if you'll take that as payment.

[cv2065]

Thanks for reaching out. Coming up this winter I'll be putting the body on to begin the fiberglass work. I'm certain I could use some experienced assistance in that regard. I can pay in smoked BBQ and beer if you'll take that as payment.

Sounds like a plan. Hit me up!

[i.e.427]

This should be enough:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188396&d=1691343388



From experience, it may not be. After going through that 4 times..................... I went with Gordon's advise and used red RTV instead of thread sealant. Hasn't leaked a drop in 10 years. Used that on every SBF ever since.

Frank

[MB750]

From experience, it may not be. After going through that 4 times..................... I went with Gordon's advise and used red RTV instead of thread sealant. Hasn't leaked a drop in 10 years. Used that on every SBF ever since.

Frank

Thanks for the tip Frank. Time will tell, I've only idled the car til the fan came on after this fix and there's no coolant on the floor, but the last time it leaked I was out go-karting for a couple miles. My garage has been so hot lately I haven't done much work on the Cobra. At least I've got this process down and can bang it out in a few hours without removing the intake manifold.

I've used RTV before on certain locations in the Harley world, mostly around the primary. Yes, it's an outstanding thread sealant.

[MB750]

I bought these cool momentary buttons from an outfit in Australia called Billet Automotive Buttons:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189959&d=1694433797

These buttons have an internal light behind the white graphic. They're momentary, which means they're only conducting while you hold the button down. For the horn that's obvious. For the turn signals...

For my turn signals, I'll be jumpering the flasher relays and using a custom motorcycle style flasher module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203142845467

They work by holding the button down for a certain length of time to get the turn signals to flash for a certain length of time. Hold for 1 sec, they flash for 5 sec. Hold for 2 sec and they flash for 10 sec. Etc... I don't like the idea behind accidentally leaving the signals flashing. This increases my chances of being pulled in front of. Auto-cancelling is something I'm familiar with and am used to.

[Mike.Bray]

I bought these cool momentary buttons from an outfit in Australia called Billet Automotive Buttons:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189959&d=1694433797

These buttons have an internal light behind the white graphic. They're momentary, which means they're only conducting while you hold the button down. For the horn that's obvious. For the turn signals...

For my turn signals, I'll be jumpering the flasher relays and using a custom motorcycle style flasher module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203142845467

They work by holding the button down for a certain length of time to get the turn signals to flash for a certain length of time. Hold for 1 sec, they flash for 5 sec. Hold for 2 sec and they flash for 10 sec. Etc... I don't like the idea behind accidentally leaving the signals flashing. This increases my chances of being pulled in front of. Auto-cancelling is something I'm familiar with and am used to.

I used several of their 22mm buttons. https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/

They are really nice pieces. You can order them without the pigtails, they will send you the connectors you can wire them directly. Eliminates a lot of butt splices.

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20220801162441mediumrotated.jpg

https://www.imagecoast.com/images/MichaelBray1/20220730135157mediumrotated.jpg

[Blitzboy54]

I bought these cool momentary buttons from an outfit in Australia called Billet Automotive Buttons:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189959&d=1694433797

These buttons have an internal light behind the white graphic. They're momentary, which means they're only conducting while you hold the button down. For the horn that's obvious. For the turn signals...

For my turn signals, I'll be jumpering the flasher relays and using a custom motorcycle style flasher module.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203142845467

They work by holding the button down for a certain length of time to get the turn signals to flash for a certain length of time. Hold for 1 sec, they flash for 5 sec. Hold for 2 sec and they flash for 10 sec. Etc... I don't like the idea behind accidentally leaving the signals flashing. This increases my chances of being pulled in front of. Auto-cancelling is something I'm familiar with and am used to.

I had the exact same setup on the turn signals. I ended up converting to locking buttons and removing the module. Some still use it, but for me I found bouncing around in the car I kept inadvertently double tapping the button which of course initiated then canceled the buttons. You may also need to install diodes. It's a slick setup but it ultimately didn't work for me.

Your wheels are so slick. I really like them.

[MB750]

It's been a few months due to the Florida heat and some other hobby interests but today I fired her up and toured the neighborhood:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPIG1Oq-zdQ


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPIG1Oq-zdQ

I really need to buy a remote microphone.

[cv2065]

Looking good Matt. FFR will be stopping by my house tomorrow or Tuesday. We'll have to hook up once I catch up to you.

[MB750]

Looking good Matt. FFR will be stopping by my house tomorrow or Tuesday. We'll have to hook up once I catch up to you.

Congrats on delivery! It's an exciting time, for sure. This is the best time of year around here to get the ball rolling on a build too, the garage isn't a sweat lodge.

[MB750]

Well, at least I got the engine coolant leak taken care of...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=191934&d=1699276973

After about 5 miles yesterday I need to see where this is coming from. I'm guessing differential, but I've got a hunch it's trans. I'll take a video next time I start it but I noticed my driveshaft not only rotates as the trans output spins it, but it also has an eccentric wobble of sorts like the trans output shaft is bent.

I might have saved some cash using donor parts but damn if it's not giving me a lot of opportunities to learn every facet of these used parts. Trying to look at the silver lining here.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I'll take a video next time I start it but I noticed my driveshaft not only rotates as the trans output spins it, but it also has an eccentric wobble of sorts like the trans output shaft is bent...

.

As I recall you cut and welded your own driveshaft, right? Without a jig even with your best efforts consider that it may not be running true. I'd remove it and then watch the output without the shaft to see if shows a "wobble".

Jeff

[MB750]

Yes I did, but what's happening is the yoke is spinning and "orbiting" around a centerline of the output shaft at the same time, like the trans output shaft is not perfectly straight. I put the driveshaft in V-blocks and it's within 10 thou on each end before I painted it.

I'll fire it up and get a video this afternoon when I get it back up on the stands.

[MB750]

Here's the vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZhMonO1b5g


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZhMonO1b5g

It's maybe 1/16" out of round at the yoke.

[MB750]

BTW, the leak is certainly coming from the pinion seal. I think I can pull it without removing the whole pinion, but my wife isn't gonna like what the garage smells like...

I just watched a video and read an article. Apparently I was supposed to put some RTV on the nut threads and face before installing in on the pinion gear to completely seal it. I most certainly didn't do that. :(

[MB750]

It's been a while since I've done anything with the Cobra. I was immersed in motorcycle stuff, having shoulder issues, but also a bit disappointed with that transmission output shaft runout. The more I think about it, the more I know deep in my core that I need to fix it. It's just the disappointment of having to pull the transmission and tear it apart again that has me bummed out and apathetic towards the job.

Regardless, I got off my duff and this happened today:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193671&d=1703536185

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193672&d=1703536185

[MB750]

Making the most of some time off over the holidays:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193719&d=1703616399

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193720&d=1703616399

[MB750]

And here's the smoking gun:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEDOGsqcUBU


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEDOGsqcUBU

[John Ibele]

Man, you sure ran into some hard-used donor parts. Glad you’ve got the combination of skills and perseverance to take it all in stride.

[MB750]

Man, you sure ran into some hard-used donor parts. Glad you’ve got the combination of skills and perseverance to take it all in stride.

Thank you. At least now I can say with 100% confidence that I've inspected every part in the entire drivetrain, from the crank pulley to the rear brake calipers, and made repairs accordingly.

At least this main shaft is only $200. I'd feel like a real piece of $#!T if I sold this Cobra to a new owner only to have the trans crap out in a year or two because I didn't fix it like I should have.

[MB750]

While I've got it apart (again) I'm gonna swap out the tailshaft bushing. I just did the seal before, but since the mainshaft had so much runout I'm sure that bushing is worn.

I used my press and a large socket to get it out:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193726&d=1703696144

I also noticed something weird with my pinion seal leak. There's a grey dust ring. Some videos show it, some don't. The ones that do show it have the dust ring physically connected to the pinion flange. Mine was certainly not like that when I took it apart, so when I put it back together I just set the dust ring back onto the seal and cranked down the flange nut.

Turns out that may have led to the leaking, so now the dust ring is physically connected to the flange and I'm off to buy a new pinion seal:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=193727&d=1703696144

[BRRT]

That old Mustang had been used hard

[MB750]

Amp Distributing for the win!


https://youtu.be/YupPSCvaERo

Maybe a thousandth out. Much better.

[MB750]

That old Mustang had been used hard

Yea, hard life indeed. At least now I can say everything I used from that car has been inspected and what was out of spec has been replaced. Or in the case of the wheel dent, on the docket for replacement in due time.

[MB750]

Build Update video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5sEUkTVGcw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5sEUkTVGcw

[MB750]

And a nice go-kart session today in the Florida sun:

https://youtu.be/K2mC-VPa-Gc


https://youtu.be/K2mC-VPa-Gc

Sorry the audio sucks. I've gotta figure out a better microphone. This one is remote but cheap.

[Railroad]

Depending on your physical build, you might want to sit in the seat and see how the dash button locations work out ergonomically. Things to the left and under the steering wheel are not the most accessible for me.
Good job on the trans.

[MB750]

Depending on your physical build, you might want to sit in the seat and see how the dash button locations work out ergonomically. Things to the left and under the steering wheel are not the most accessible for me.
Good job on the trans.

Thank you. Since you mention it, I've chosen that location for the turn signal buttons because I'm used to using my left arm for turn signal action, and in manual cars I tend to keep my right hand on the shifter. BUT, do you think there's a chance the top of the door will be in the way for my left arm to comfortably access those switches?

Clearly I don't have the door installed so I wouldn't know the difference. Why was it an issue for you?

[Railroad]

I thought I would mount something on the left side of the steering wheel, forgot what it was.
I must have had the body and doors on, when I found out the reduction of area and access.
I ended up putting the horn button on the dash, to the right of the steering wheel.
My headlight dimmer is on the Russ Thompson turn signal lever.
I must not have a pic of the my dash. I do have a panel on the trans tunnel to dash support. I have a power outlet, 4 way flasher and wiper switch on it.
Too cold to go to barn for pic taking, today.
Maybe others will chime in.
good luck,

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've built several cars using a self cancelling Signal Dynamics module (which uses momentary switches for activation) rather than a Russ Thompson style column mount and on all of those located the controls to the left of the wheel. It works and as you say seems more natural.

On my own car I used a 2 position momentary rocker switch (actually a power window switch). The toggle is high/low beam and the momentary push button is "flash to pass:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194283&d=1704825729

The customer for this car preferred a long stem momentary toggle; up=right, down=left. Again the other toggle is high/low beam:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194282&d=1704825650

The customer for this one preferred two momentary push buttons to the left of the wheel but asked me to put the low/high beam toggle on the right.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=194281&d=1704825554

Hope that helps!

Jeff

[MB750]

I like the idea of putting them to the left of the tach, I just figured the curved nature of the dash wouldn't allow for a 19mm diameter momentary switch. I'll take a closer look. I also like the idea of putting a hi-lo toggle over there as well.

[MB750]

I've built several cars using a self cancelling Signal Dynamics module (which uses momentary switches for activation) rather than a Russ Thompson style column mount and on all of those located the controls to the left of the wheel. It works and as you say seems more natural.

Jeff

Hey Jeff, I'm curious, but did you just use a jumper wire in place of the OEM flasher relay that goes into the fuse block? Since the Signal Dynamics module does the flashing, I'm guessing you'll have to feed it 12 VDC constant through that circuit.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I set them up with keyed and fused 12 volts, just like conventional turn signals. That can come from the turn signal feed or wherever else you care to grab it. I prefer keyed power rather than constant hot so that people can’t activate them while the car is parked.

Jeff

[MB750]

I'm too excited to not share this, but I just spent $700 at Spintech for all my low-profile exhaust components. I'll be sure to post pics of the fabrication and assembly, and definitely sound clips.

[MB750]

I installed a smaller clutch MC today. The last few times I went out I grew annoyed how touchy the clutch was. Wilwood sells a bunch of different sizes, so I did some quick math and went with a 15/16" MC. The clutch onset is so much smoother now, less grabby, and easier to leave the line and go backwards up my driveway.

[MB750]

Gonna have a fun couple a weekends:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195165&d=1706657077

[maclonchas]

Wow that is definitely a different mod for the MK4. I will be interested in your install and see how it looks.

[MB750]

Wow that is definitely a different mod for the MK4. I will be interested in your install and see how it looks.

The design intent is to run the oval tubing and muffler right under the seats, then ditch out in front of the rear tires. I'm gonna put a 1/4" strip of wood on top of the mufflers and jack them up firmly before welding the hangers so they're actually hanging a bit, but up as high as possible. Then a buttload of insulation under the seat.

There's a fella on here who's done the same thing. The end game here is the "Gentleman's Cobra". Metallic BRG paint with an under exhaust, but since I'm solid axle doing tail pipes would be difficult.

[jab351w]

Gonna have a fun couple a weekends:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195165&d=1706657077

This may be of interest:

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/624642-undercar-exhaust-halfway.html

I'm the current owner of the car shown in the thread above--exhaust was fabbed by the prior owner/builder.

[MB750]

This may be of interest:

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/624642-undercar-exhaust-halfway.html

I'm the current owner of the car shown in the thread above--exhaust was fabbed by the prior owner/builder.

Hand built headers? Amazing!

I went with the oval inlet/outlet 7000 series. My goal was the lowest profile mufflers available. These are only 2.5" thick.

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195409&d=1707311126

Drivers side. Went together pretty easily. Some custom cuts to adjust angle, but for the most part not bad. It's just tacked together with the Flux Core, but I'll TIG it for the finish welds. And I'll whip up a hanger on the back end. I got started on the passenger side but dinner was calling before I got to the J pipe.

It'll all get a coat of high temp paint, and header wrap from the O2 sensors down to the muffler to try keeping heat inside the pipe.

[Mike.Bray]

I find this interesting. On the original 260 & 289 Cobras the exhaust ran under the car and out the back. The 427SC had the sidepipes we all know. What you're doing is under the car but exiting at about the same place as the sidepipes. Is it just to eliminate the big sidepipe and clean up the lines of the car? I'm guessing with those mufflers it will be quieter than with the sidepipes.

I hope you're able to insulate well enough to keep from roasting your butt. When I was looking to buy a Viper I looked at a few Gen III that had the exhaust under the car and out the back. The heat from the exhaust in the cockpit was noticeable. I ended up buying a Gen IV where they went back to the sidepipes and no heat in the interior.

Looking good so far!

[MB750]

That's interesting Mike, I always thought the 427 had the full under exhaust and the 289 had the side pipes.

Regardless, my end game is the Gentlemen's Cobra. British Racing Green and no pipe to sting your lady's leg.

I'll definitely post a sound video when they're done

[MB750]

Spintech exhaust fabricated, but not yet painted and insulated:

https://youtu.be/59DJ5jZvCo0


https://youtu.be/59DJ5jZvCo0

I'll be painting, then wrapping the pipe up to the muffler, then partially wrapping the top and inside of each muffler with some aluminum backed fiberglass to keep heat off my bum and the fuel/brake lines.

[MB750]

From the "Took long enough..." department, exhaust is done and installed:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196822&d=1710362267

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196823&d=1710362267

Header wrap down to the muffler, then fiberglass backed aluminum around the top and inside of each muffler. Hopefully that'll keep the heat at bay (somewhat).

[MB750]

After a few more miles go-karting around the hood I decided I wasn't much of a fan of the pedal positioning, so I made some modifications. Firstly, the brake needs to be further out, but there's a frame member in the way:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197130&d=1711069536

I didnt' want to push the seat forward because I like the positioning the way it is, so I made some adapters.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197129&d=1711069536

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197131&d=1711069536

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=197132&d=1711069536

I finally got to use those Harbor Freight letter stamps too. Now it's perfect!

Next up, raise the gas pedal a scootch, and scoot the clutch over as far as possible, just to make the pedal flush with the Wilwood arm.

[MB750]

I've had heartburn over that panel bend on the throttle side of the footbox because my toe kept hitting it, so I picked up some sheet aluminum and a metal brake from Harbor Freight and went to town. First with some cardboard, then the final product. Two pieces later:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198026&d=1712701788

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=198027&d=1712701788

I also scooted the clutch pedal over one hole space and used a metal plate to distribute the load. It looks a bit goofy but works great. Now I can wear normal shoes and not worry about my foot hitting anything unintended (like the gas when I'm hitting the brakes...)

[MB750]

I know I had to shorten the driveshaft to work better with the SN-95 bellhousing and input shaft I used from the donor, but I've had heartburn about it since I did it. Yes, technically it worked, but I wanted it to be just a smidge longer, and not welded in the center. So, I took the universal joints out of the driveshaft, took some measurements to see what size yokes I'd need, and ordered some. I already had some 3" tubing lying around, so I got the correct yokes for a 3/32" tubing wall and got to cuttin'.

The process was pretty straightforward, until I got to the point where you have to have the yokes indexed correctly. This was my way of making sure they are perfectly in phase"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199548&d=1716145268

Then I used my 20T press to drive the loose yoke home.

I then checked roundness, which was less than .005"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199549&d=1716145268

The garage was plenty hot so I called it quits before firing up the TIG to finish the job. When it's all done I'll bring it in for balancing.

I also worked on the dash a bit. From go-karting, I know I'll want my left hand on the wheel all the time so my right hand could be busy with switches and shifting. I moved the turn signals over to the right, bought a larger horn button, and also bought the 16A "brights" button to toggle those on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=199550&d=1716145268

[MB750]

FYI, they're size 1330 universal joints.

[MB750]

From the "Unnecessary but neat stuff" department, I'm putting an electronic E-stop on. Difficulty: I'm building and fabricating the kit myself. No way that E-stopp kit is worth $570 when it's just some electronics and a linear actuator. Those linear actuators are only around $50.

First, I need to know the stroke minimum requirement, and the power required. Stroke length is easy. I held a ruler down by the mechanism and pulled the E-stop. 3/4", good, next.

Get out the luggage scale, hook it up to the handle and give it a yank:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203170&d=1724699901

And now that I know how much force is needed to fully set the parking brake, I've got some math to do. There's quite a large mechanical advantage on the brake handle. 8.3 times in fact. Since Work = Force X Distance, and with levers it's a ratio, it's just a little math. Knowing this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=203171&d=1724699901

So, I need an actuator that has 300 lbs of force (or 1334 Newtons if you swing metric).

[Mike.Bray]

My wife's luggage scale has a higher capacity:)

[Dash]

Hey, I think I may be able to assist! I did the same thing, as I was having a difficult time of getting enough leverage to engage the brakes mechanically. So, like you, looked at the E-stop, but could not understand or comprehend the total cost and well, I am always looking for a challenge. I wanted it to engage like my old e-brake by pulling the handle. Here is my parts list:

Actuator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Relay
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T12WLMT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ9NVMS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

And wiring diagram (it was actually for a chicken coop door actuator!)203236

I mounted and connected the switch to a spring and hooked that to my e-brake handle. Works really good, can hold on hill. I would say my only drawback, is that the stroke is 2 inches and it does not have any limit switches, so I have to wait for the entire until to release and then tighten up which takes approx 4 - 5 seconds. good luck!

Chris

[MB750]

Hey, I think I may be able to assist! I did the same thing, as I was having a difficult time of getting enough leverage to engage the brakes mechanically. So, like you, looked at the E-stop, but could not understand or comprehend the total cost and well, I am always looking for a challenge. I wanted it to engage like my old e-brake by pulling the handle. Here is my parts list:

Actuator
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Relay
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T12WLMT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ9NVMS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

And wiring diagram (it was actually for a chicken coop door actuator!)203236

I mounted and connected the switch to a spring and hooked that to my e-brake handle. Works really good, can hold on hill. I would say my only drawback, is that the stroke is 2 inches and it does not have any limit switches, so I have to wait for the entire until to release and then tighten up which takes approx 4 - 5 seconds. good luck!

Chris

Thanks for the feedback and links. I see you went the relay route. I'm just gonna keep it simple and go with the DPDT switch on the dash and omit the handle completely to clean up the transmission tunnel cover. I'm going with this actuator too, simply because it's claimed power is plenty high enough for my needs:

https://www.amazon.com/Justech-Actuator-Actuators-Relocation-Wheelchairs/dp/B0CPY34MCW/ref=sr_1_16?crid=VIYX3X2PZAEA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7bpPsWlcdfHEvIP5yaugx9Gg4bg0RHLrP 6uf0-S7kbRNjKiZJfh2Tedy6cM52Xzxr1esEtJdJircKn0AXGnQuaSb Bwts0nk41NhPpxCag53AGaPczawjAIi4w5XaaAsVlKDZrsyUx2 kvebplWGg2rohk_0MSZslPeWO0471wgeozncenHgGbdqTO0kfb _T9DbiLuCLvZQygUo8o3Rh60B16C8Kx5UK4Ri1Mr19cH0BE.0q dfiT_ylrJ17CRnNI74oVTTKxS3Y9iqUCaawjfs-TU&dib_tag=se&keywords=Linear+Actuators+3000N&qid=1724701825&sprefix=linear+actuator+3000n%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-16

Also, those actuators do have limit switches. They're just internal to that barrel that's around the pushrod, and you need some soldering skills to make it happen. Here's a video on it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ls4zv-nhBUU

[MB750]

Hey...

Chris

One other question. Could you please share a pic of your mounting? I've got some ideas, but I'm always looking for further inspiration.

[Blitzboy54]

Your exhaust is a work of art. I am both impressed and a little jealous. I was always skeptical of under frame exhaust on these and you have proven it can be done and be awesome.



Great job.

[MB750]

Cooler garage, no cervical pain, no excuses, back to work!

Got the lighting wiring squared away and tested. Had to make a jumper for where the flasher relay goes to feed my special signal module constant 12 VDC.

Test lamp:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205341&d=1729037683

Rat's Nest:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205340&d=1729037683

Procedure:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jozii051uCo

And finished. The switch in the middle is for the E-parking brake:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205342&d=1729037683

[cv2065]

Looking good Matt. Cooler garage temps finally here!

[MB750]

Oh, and one other thing...

Someone at Ron Francis must have dropped the ball in the Quality department because my rear turn signal wires are swapped somewhere in the harness.

Fortunately I was able to just swap them at the switch. It still bugs me though. I mean they're clearly labeled, and color coded!

[Mike.Bray]

Rat's Nest:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205340&d=1729037683




FYI, you can order the Billet Buttons without the pigtails, they will send you the connectors and housings loose so you don't have all those splices. That's what I did. Or after the fact they will sell you loose connectors and housings.

[MB750]

FYI, you can order the Billet Buttons without the pigtails, they will send you the connectors and housings loose so you don't have all those splices. That's what I did. Or after the fact they will sell you loose connectors and housings.

Huh, that's good to know. I did end up swapping all those wire nuts out with butt splices, but the extra length would have been nice to get rid of.

A few of those terminations, like the grounds, and the bundle of wires for each turn signal path, had 5 conductors under each so I still would have had some bulk, but I still would have cleaned it up a bit.

[MB750]

Got the mechanical and some of the electrical side for my DIY E-brake done:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205835&d=1730067784

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205836&d=1730067784

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=205837&d=1730067784


I did have to reconfigure the internal limit switches to reduce the stroke from 2" to 1". The whole sweep is 3/4", that extra 1/4" will just be sag in the mechanism. I'll be driving it with a DPDT momentary switch in the dash. Up engages it, down releases it. You just gotta hold it for a few seconds. I can live with that.

[MB750]

Wrapped up the footbox and the glove box:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206189&d=1730940393

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206191&d=1730940393

I didn't like the F5R way of just using epoxy to hold the glove box cover bits together so I added a few SS fasteners to hold things together better.

And from the looks of the manual, it's time to start fiddling with the body! :o

[MB750]

Initial body installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206337&d=1731368105

And I've devised a way to get the body in and off myself.

[MB750]

Changing it up a little in the wheel department:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206727&d=1732450092


There's a few reasons for this. Firstly, I just wasn't feeling the "busy-ness" of those other wheels. Second, the front wheels had too little backspacing and were too wide, which would have put the tire into the body pretty easily on bumps. Third, that one wheel had a dent. These are off a late model Mustang and half my current rubber spooned right onto them. I got some 225's on order for the front. I did have to buy some longer studs and a 3/8" spacer for the front spindles though. That caliper is too meaty for a clean swap.

[MB750]

Some of you might remember my shenanigans to the roll bars. I though they stood just a bit too tall, so I shortened them and modified the 3rd leg accordingly. It all worked nicely, slid in and out, and was easily removable. In the back of my mind I always knew the challenge of getting a custom hole lined up for that 3rd leg would be a chore. Well.....

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206784&d=1732503645

Nailed it! My trick was to hold a laser on the hoop end of the 3rd leg receiver at a few points around the diameter while marking the laser dot on the fiberglass. After an oval was created, I blasted a couple 1.75" holes right next to each other, then took a drum sander on my drill to smooth it out.

Color me surprised it worked perfectly with no extra fiberglass work needed from a screw up.

[MB750]

Got the longer studs today. I tried installing them via a way the internet shows, by drawing them in thru a sleeve of some kind. Many used an old lug nut, but I had some 1/2"x20 nuts lying around from the build so I used one of them. I also anti-seized everything and gave it hell with my impact:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206799&d=1732577036

The two nuts between the washers are drilled out to 1/2".

Aaaaaaand the nut stripped at this point:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206800&d=1732577036


I love having a 20 Ton press in my garage. Made quick work of the rest:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206801&d=1732577036

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=206802&d=1732577036

Now I need either deep lug nuts, or cut 1/4" off the ends of those lugs. Since that end isn't threaded I'm gonna think about it.

[MB750]

It's been a while and I've done quite a bit since my last video so here's an update.

***Parental Advisory - Explicit Language***


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lIdy6K5SQ8

[MB750]

Trunk struts done:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207368&d=1733842853


I fished some solid conductor thru a couple holes in the trunk so I could easily pull the wires thru.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207369&d=1733842853

This is where I cut the door panels to reduce the gaps. I'm waiting on the vinyl ester resin, which should come in today:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207370&d=1733842853

LED head lights too. Those incandescent ones from FFR draw almost 11A each when both filaments are on. These are 5.8A each.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207371&d=1733842853

[MB750]

I was also playing around with the latches and the striker. I made an offset for the striker so I could get the door fully closed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207374&d=1733843211

But what I noticed is the striker just barely fits into the latch, so I ground down the latch where the striker falls into. Now there's a bit more play and it's smoother.

I also noticed FFR expects me to drive a few rivet nuts, and compassionately supplies a single 1/4"-20 bolt, nut, and fender washer to install it. Yea......... Looks like an opportunity to make a rivnut installer!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207372&d=1733842853

1/2"-13 left hand thread bolt and coupling nut. My mill drilled it out to 17/64" and Bob's your uncle.

[MB750]

Fun fact: I just discovered that if you put fiberglass under tension, then heat it up really hot with a heat gun (but don't melt it), and then let it cool, when you remove the shims it'll pretty much stay where is was previously being held.

[MB750]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_Y2XXQWMpQ


Now I shouldn't need a few cubic yards of Bondo to smooth out the transitions.

[MB750]

Put this affair together:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207532&d=1734206869

And installed the passenger seat and lap belt:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207531&d=1734206869

Then me and the wife went for a spin! Just out around the neighborhood, 7 miles. All systems go, but I do have a little drip of antifreeze somewhere. I'll investigate that later. For now I had a great Saturday with the Cobra.

[Nigel Allen]

Nice work Matt. Are you still grinning?

It's been fun following along.


Cheers,

Nigel.

[MB750]

Nice work Matt. Are you still grinning?

It's been fun following along.


Cheers,

Nigel.

Thanks Nigel. Actually yes, occasionally my mind will go back to Saturday morning with my wife riding shotgun and the car running smoothly. It was a great Saturday.

Then again last night when I stepped into the garage to pull a beer out of the fridge. When I turned the light on and saw it just sitting there my mind pulled back to Saturday.

I think we're gonna have some memorable times going forward.

[MB750]

I made a charcoal canister out of PVC and some brass fittings. One end takes a 1/4" hose, the other is a cap with a bunch of small holes drilled in it, and the insides is packed full of charcoal bits that I bought from Petsmart that are intended to be used for fish tanks or something:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207669&d=1734521464

[MB750]

Here's some recent photos for levity's sake:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207670&d=1734521464

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207671&d=1734521464

[MB750]

I just realized over the course of this build there's a few different motorcycles in the background. :o

This one I'll be keeping around for a while. I inherited it from my dad. It's a 2022 Heritage. My garage only has room for one and this is it.

[egchewy79]

I made a charcoal canister out of PVC and some brass fittings. One end takes a 1/4" hose, the other is a cap with a bunch of small holes drilled in it, and the insides is packed full of charcoal bits that I bought from Petsmart that are intended to be used for fish tanks or something:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207669&d=1734521464

Don't know if you did this, but putting some filter elements in either end will prevent the dust/small bits from falling out either end. I used some scotch brite pads cut to size.

[MB750]

Don't know if you did this, but putting some filter elements in either end will prevent the dust/small bits from falling out either end. I used some scotch brite pads cut to size.

I made that thing months ago, and I'm pretty sure I did something, but now I really should to take it apart and see what I did. Otherwise, I've got scotch brite material around here somewhere. That's a good idea.

I do know I crammed it in there and tamped it a bunch of times to really settle the charcoal. I also made it so tightening down the top cap the last 1/8" would compress the charcoal as well.

[MB750]

Steel wool:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207751&d=1734641507

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207752&d=1734641507

I know it may rust in time, so I'll check it again at the break-in oil change (500 miles).

[MB750]

Somebody wants to go for a pup cup:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=207753&d=1734641507

[Dave Tabor]

And after I got them both torqued down I had a gut feeling I didn't double-check something. Gold star or free beer to whoever can call out my snafu:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170652&d=1659833073




That head gasket is not oriented correctly, front to back. The rear of the block should have the larger water passages.

Dave
Gen III Coupe #17
FRPP Boss 302 w/AFR heads

[MB750]

That head gasket is not oriented correctly, front to back. The rear of the block should have the larger water passages.

Dave
Gen III Coupe #17
FRPP Boss 302 w/AFR heads

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=170662&d=1659842341

As of today 42 miles and she's parked right at 78C.

[MB750]

In a move that will surely polarize everyone, I modified the Breeze battery box to take a larger battery:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208413&d=1735826441

I had the group 51, and there's been a couple times a hot engine and a fully charged battery gave for some labored cranking of the engine. Since I'm carb'd, I expect some occasional extended cranking in my starting future so I wanted to upgrade.

That's a (n)EverStart AGM from Walmart, group 35 size. 650CCA and a 4-year warranty. Since I've got the SN-95 style water pump and pulleys I had a couple extra inches up there. It fits perfectly in the width of the Breeze box but about 1.5" forward. What I did was cut the front corners out and bent the flange down, then I reinforced the bottom with 1/8" steel strips. The straps go up the back 1.5" and rivet right on the top of the 4" cross member so the weight is distributed well. It's also riveted to the X-bars up front just like the Breeze originally was.

I know they're not Optima, but at least now I can deal with any Walmart if this thing fails in the next four years.

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208414&d=1735826441

And no, that's not the broomstick test for racing. What I'm doing here is seeing how easy it would be to get into the car with a tonneau cover.

From my research, nothing exists. There's the soft tops, and the forthcoming hard tops (or the 427 Hardtops option every once in a while), but nothing just covering the top. Like a dodger for a boat, but more easy on the eyes than canvas.

There's been a few people on here who have fabricated something. That's my route. I'll make a mold out of plywood and foam, shave it to shape, then start laying down fiberglass until it's as thick as the body. Then one layer of carbon fiber to make it look cool, and clear coat.

I'll put some type of mounting affair together. Something to fix it to the windshield and tops of the roll bars. TBD on when I get the ball rolling on this, but after my ride yesterday I need to get the sun off my dome if I'm to have any lengthy trips in this car.

[MB750]

Today I fiddled with the ride height, and stuffed some foam between the foot boxes and body to keep heat from cooking my sides:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208511&d=1735953197

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208512&d=1735953197

[MB750]

Worth mentioning, I set the ride height at 5" in the front, 5.5" in the back. Mostly due to the exhaust being a bit lower than the frame rails. To get there I had to do a lot of back and forthing from each side in the front. Too much on one side and the other side would move as well. Regardless, I got it with the following measurements:

All measurements taken was the distance from top of adjustment ring to the top of the threaded cylinder:

Drivers side front: 2-5/8"
Passenger side front: 2-11/16" (battery is on that side)
Both rears: 2"

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208513&d=1735953197

[MB750]

Also, being cheeky:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208514&d=1735953197

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=208549&d=1736031528

I gotta say, if ever there was an "Easy Button" for registering anything for the road this is it.

Suffice it to say, I'm going for a drive tomorrow. :cool:

[Mike.Bray]

Interested to see how you go with that plate, we've heard stories.

There was a car on BAT the other day that the bidding was pretty low for what it was. Looking at the details it had a Montana registration with an LLC and this was keeping a lot of bidders away according to the comments.

Mike

[MB750]

Interested to see how you go with that plate, we've heard stories.

There was a car on BAT the other day that the bidding was pretty low for what it was. Looking at the details it had a Montana registration with an LLC and this was keeping a lot of bidders away according to the comments.

Mike

For what it's worth, I'll eventually "sell" it to myself to get a name on the title, but not until I either leave Florida, or they recognize FFR in their database.

[MB750]

Interested to see how you go with that plate, we've heard stories.

There was a car on BAT the other day that the bidding was pretty low for what it was. Looking at the details it had a Montana registration with an LLC and this was keeping a lot of bidders away according to the comments.

Mike

If you're referring to this one:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/era-427-cobra-replica/

Somehow it ended up selling for a crazy, 6-figure amount!

[Mike.Bray]

If you're referring to this one:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/era-427-cobra-replica/

Somehow it ended up selling for a crazy, 6-figure amount!

It wasn't a Cobra.

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you're referring to this one:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/era-427-cobra-replica/

Somehow it ended up selling for a crazy, 6-figure amount!

Six figures are not crazy for an ERA. The description on the car said---



This 427 Cobra replica is now offered with build documents, a tonneau cover, a knockoff tool, and a Montana title in the name of the seller’s LLC describing it as a 2020 ASVE.



Apparently that Montana title still called it an assembled vehicle and not a 1965...so pretty much the same as if it had been titled in Florida. But it did allow the owner to avoid paying a significant amount in taxes.

Jeff

[MB750]

It wasn't a Cobra.


Ok, have you got a link to the one you're referring to?

[MB750]

Six figures are not crazy for an ERA. The description on the car said---



Apparently that Montana title still called it an assembled vehicle and not a 1965...so pretty much the same as if it had been titled in Florida. But it did allow the owner to avoid paying a significant amount in taxes.

Jeff

So a 427, build docs, a lead hammer, and a tonneau cover. Is that what makes it a 6-figure replica? What's so special about the ERA cobras?

Genuinely asking here, I'm new to the Cobra game.

[Mike.Bray]

Ok, have you got a link to the one you're referring to?

I don't, I didn't save it. Don't even remember what it was for sure, may have been an S2000 as I've had a couple of those and usually look at them on BAT thinking I might get another one someday. For me personally I would not buy a car with a Montana LLC registration, too much risk for my hard earned money. But that's me, the guy who's been to Vegas more times than I can count and not gambled one nickel.

I am curious to see how it goes for you, like I said before I seriously considered going the Montana LLC route until I read up on the (potential) drawbacks. Of course a little different situation for me as it seems the title process is a little more clear here in Texas and we're not obligated to pay any sales tax on initial registration since no "sale of a motor vehicle" has occurred.

Mike

[Mike.Bray]

What's so special about the ERA cobras?

I've wondered the same thing. I had a chance to crawl all over and under a Superformance one time and was not very impressed. Lots of washers being used for spacers and such, just seemed a little sloppy for what they're supposed to be. Saw a Shell Valley one time being built and could not believe what I was seeing. I'll stick with my Factory Five.

[MB750]

I've wondered the same thing. I had a chance to crawl all over and under a Superformance one time and was not very impressed. Lots of washers being used for spacers and such, just seemed a little sloppy for what they're supposed to be. Saw a Shell Valley one time being built and could not believe what I was seeing. I'll stick with my Factory Five.

Yes, exactly! I recently watched someone's video on their Superformance Cobra after one year of ownership and it really highlighted the (in my opinion) poor design features of those cars.

This video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJjH3L_dxMo

[Kbl7td]

I’ll say it here for the last time, have you guys ever owned a business? Ever had equipment, cars, tractors etc in a business name. It’s literally the same sh+t. As he said he will likely “buy” it from his Montana LlC, then transfer to Florida. He is the sole business owner of his Montana LLc, just like you’d be the sole owner of an LLc in your own state (unless you have other shareholders) and you would sell that piece of equipment etc out of your LLc to anyone else.

[MB750]

Fiddling with the carby, tuning and whatnot:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2W9h2itp5iw

[MB750]

And learning a thing or two about mechanical secondaries:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=184MDOJZI6c

[MB750]

More carb tuning, and learning some stuff. Believe it or not this is actually very fun for me:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P59iG-TxOlA

[MB750]

OOOOOoooooooohhhhhhhhkkkkkkkkkaaaaayyyyyy..... THAT was a massive step in the right direction. Using the 70 needle had me so lean at cruise it was misfiring. The wideband was reading in the 17's.

Well, I wanted an over-correction, and I got one. I turned around after less than a mile and went with one of the 68 needles. Now it's mostly showing 15's at cruise with the occasional 14 showing up every now and then. Deep and WFO throttle is still dropping into the 10's tho.

Stay tuned.

[MB750]

Pretty successful weekend of tuning. Below is all the combinations I tried while chasing the stoichiometric dragon:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209032&d=1736719537

I also completely removed the bar driving the secondaries just until I get the primary circuit dialed in. The thing still pulls like a raped ape at WFO.

[MB750]

One of the things I really love about this part of the project is being extremely granular when it comes to understanding how something does what it does. Topically, everyone knows what a carb does (meters fuel into the engine). But there's TONS of design and testing that goes into flow rates and whatnot that all happens behind the scenes during the design phase that nobody sees. That's the stuff I love. It's the "why" aspect of taking a deep dive.

Case in point, here's how I'm tuning my carb. I know there's a relationship between AFR and jet/needle size. At cruise, constant throttle, the metering rod is down and there's only two sources for fuel into the engine (the idle mixture screws, and much more applicable is the thick part of the metering rod and main jet). If the jet and rod have a relationship where the more area available to flow fuel, the richer my burned mixture will be. I discovered there's a sweet spot, and that seems to be around .0028 in^2.

My notes below:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209122&d=1736859681

Jet, rod, clearance between the two, and one thing I was missing was the difference in area between those two. The clearance might be the same, but as you reduce the diameter of an orifice you're inherently reducing the area as well so that clearance measurement wasn't the most accurate.

Now, knowing this I can see what "delta area" works best to get me the best cruise AFR. Then it's just swapping jets and needles to get me there.

Here's more notes. It's me calculating the area of each needle and jet, and also at the bottom proposing a few different combinations that are in the "sweet spot" of flow area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209121&d=1736859681

I also made a spreadsheet in Excel for quicker math:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209120&d=1736859681


For what it's worth, I'd be doing the exact same type of stuff for an EFI conversion.

[MB750]

I also watched a really interesting video from David Vizard about vacuum advance tuning optimization. Basically what you do is hook a vacuum gauge up to the carb and fix it to the windshield so you can see it on the fly. You also disconnect the vacuum advance from the carb and hook it up to a mighty vac hand pump. (Stay with me here...)

Set your initial timing to something where the car can go down the road. Then when you're out, maintain a speed and RPM on a flat road (set cruise if you have it). Let's just say 50 mph is 2000 rpm. As your speed is locked in, start drawing a vacuum on the mighty vac. This will slowly advance the timing. Consequently, you will also need less throttle input, which will cause the engine vacuum to increase.

The goal here is to keep drawing vacuum on the advance until your throttle is as light as possible and your engine vacuum is as deep as possible. Then, note that data (RPM and engine vacuum level). Then back in your garage, adjust the vacuum advance so it mimics those values. Many vacuum advance devices can be adjusted internally with a 3mm allen wrench.

I need to do some fiddling with my timing anyway. I initially set it at 10 degrees advanced, but that was during engine cranking and I haven't touched it since. I know I can spice that up a little as well.

[Windsor]

Did you connect your distributor vacuum advance to manifold vacuum (back of carb) or the purpose-built port vacuum on the side of the carb?

[MB750]

Did you connect your distributor vacuum advance to manifold vacuum (back of carb) or the purpose-built port vacuum on the side of the carb?

Manifold vacuum, not port (or timed) vacuum. The AVS2 has two ports on the front of the carb, one of each.

I've done the research, manifold vacuum makes the most sense for me.

[MB750]

Over the last few days I got the timing squared away. Lemme explain something...

I've tuned quite a few vehicles in my day. Mostly motorcycles, but they all operate under the same combustion theory. I've never messed with ignition timing before, except on my 88 GT back in high school.

On this build, the timing was set to 10 degrees BTDC during cranking. Once I got it started I just left it alone because the car started fine and ran fine, although it was running fat almost everywhere. I've been tweaking jets and needles to lean it out, which has helped, but this week I tuned the timing.

I know how my distributor works. Vacuum and mechanical advance, RPM ranges, ramp rates, vacuum levels and whatnot. I started with a suggested 14 degrees BTDC (disconnected vacuum adv) but noticed my total advance only went to 30. So then I had my wife hold the throttle at 3500 rpm (where I was certain the mech. adv. was done) and locked down the dizzy at 35 degrees BTDC. Then I hooked the vacuum back up, lowered the idle, and went for a spin.

With the jetting untouched my AFR's somehow automatically were much more ideal. My cruise got a little leaner, WFO was in the high 11's on just the primaries. That all made more sense than I was seeing before. Now it's back to the drawing board on the jetting.

TL;DR - set timing first, then tweak fuel.

[MB750]

Testing LS coils for my eventual Megasquirt Coil-near-plug ECM conversion (because this carby isn't difficult enough...)


https://youtu.be/pZDNR9N7H1Q

[MB750]

Nailed it!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209620&d=1737927764

That's how many trials I needed to get the jetting nailed perfect. Steady cruise is right at stoich, WFO with the secondaries involved is in the low 12's, and when I switched to the silver spring (stiffest one to push the rod up quicker) that got rid of my lean light throttle acceleration. The accelerator pump was helping, but getting the needle up at 8" rather than at 5" was a treat thanks to driving around with a vacuum gauge taped to my windshield. Low speed cruise was at 16", and high speed cruise was 11". The needle didn't start rising until 5", so any light acceleration in that window led to a lean surge because the needle was still being held down.

Another neat aspect is my gas gauge moves a lot slower now. I'm at 190 miles total on the car so I haven't actually done any MPG testing, but anecdotal evidence has me eager to go for a long cruise with the tank topped off just to see what my mileage is.

[MB750]

Finished my tunnel cover. I'm proud of the e-brake thing. It's just some aluminum pieces welded, sanded, machined, and painted. Then I bought some 1/16" silicone rubber sheet to make the gasket and cut a slot for the handle to move thru its sweep.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209913&d=1738443744

I should probably paint the trim ring on the shifter black now.

[MB750]

Put a healthy 50 miles on her today, now I'm up to 240. Mostly 55 zones with a short blast on the interstate for a couple miles. Everything went swimmingly.

[MB750]

Good times this weekend... I moved the Cobra out of my garage to do some work on my Heritage and noticed that it marked its territory on the garage floor. Cursory inspection showed oil dripping down the spacer plate between the bellhousing and the engine. Any SBF owner knows what that means:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210801&d=1740416623


Turns out there's a bit of black magic when it comes to rear main seals. For starters, just go with the Ford one. I've got both, and now I can see why:

Fel-Pro:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210802&d=1740416623

Ford:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210803&d=1740416623


That's the sealing surface of each brand. The Fel-Pro one feels like cardboard and isn't very pliable at all. The Ford one feels just like every other seal I've ever installed. Also there's been a few reports of people doing the whole job with the Fel-Pro seal and it still leaking. A few suggestions to prevent this (aside from using the Ford seal) is to install a "seal saver" around the crank with loctite, and use teflon sealant on the flywheel bolts. I don't think the leak was from the bolts since I used red loctite on them, but I cleaned the threads and bolts and when I put it all back together I'll use that PTFE paste I bought for the head studs.

On the plus side, I'm getting pretty good at taking that trans out.

[Mike.Bray]

Interesting. I have a Dart SHP block and they recommend a FelPro #2921 or 2942, I used the 2921. It seemed like a fine seal to me and has worked so far.

[MB750]

I suppose there's a chance a freshly assembled engine with a brand new crank wouldn't object to the FelPro seals. But mine, with 131K miles, and I got the mating surface as smooth as I possibly could, had an issue with the FelPro because it wasn't an absolutely perfect circle. It felt smooth to the touch, but I'm sure it's grooved and has ridges from seal wear over time that could have upset the FelPro. That's why I'm putting a seal saver on when everything goes back together.

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210914&d=1740662714

At least I got a peek at the bores while I was down there. Nice and smooth.

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211292&d=1741520792


Yea, I went there. Mainly because I've never done a gearing swap and wanted to see how much of a PITA it is, but also because I'd like a bit more pull in the midrange. I know 1st will be sort of useless. If it bugs me enough, I kept the 3.27's. My tranny probably isn't long for this world anyway. My near term plans for this project are to do an EFI/Megasquirt conversion with coil-near-plug LS coils on the valve covers, and then boost it with a GT45.

[MB750]

One thing I'd like to add regarding the gearing swap, for levity's sake.

It was certainly a pain in the a$$. Not so much the mechanics of it, but the many times I repeated the exact same steps trying to get the pattern right. I'm not joking, I pulled the carrier around 30 times and changed pinion bearing shims another 6 times. I bought a large bearing puller so I wouldn't damage the pinion bearing, and I've got a 20T press to make quick work of it, but after a few times it got old.

The reason I did so many tests is to see how the pattern responded each time. Yes I watched youtube videos of people explaining it and what each pattern means, but there's an infinite amount of variables in how each gear pattern looks it's impossible to get the exact football shape right in the center of the drive face of the tooth.

I kept chasing my tail. I'd get the football shape on the drive side, but it was always down by the toe of the ring gear. Not touching the toe, but that end of center. According to my research, adjusting the pinion shim moves the pattern up or down the tooth (from the peak to the valley, technically called the Face and Flank), and adjusting the backlash between the ring and pinion gear moves the football pattern from the toe to the heel of the tooth. Tight backlash puts the pattern towards the toe, wide backlash moves it towards the heel.

My problem, which I experienced MULTIPLE times using various pinion shims, is that anywhere within the backlash tolerance of .008" to .012" and the stupid pattern was always closer to the toe than the heel. I went into this thinking, "I'm patient, I'll get it perfect..." Then 6 hours later I learned that the only way to get a perfect pattern on this assembly is to live with .012" clearance and the football pattern being a bit towards the toe from center.

During my experimenting I tried backlash measurements in the 20's and low and behold, the drive side pattern was dead nuts perfect. It didn't matter if I was at .020" pinion shim, or .038, or no shim at all, the stupid backlash dictates where that football shows up on the tooth. All changing shims behind the pinion did was move the pattern up and down the tooth face. .026" centered it vertically, but backlash sets it horizontally, and forcing you to stay in the backlash tolerance also forces you to live with a pattern that's "good enough" apparently.

I didn't take pics of my current patterns, but here's the ones from 131K miles as a 3.27:1 and my new patterns look really close to these so I'm gonna run it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211297&d=1741534273

[Mike.Bray]

Sounds like a fun day, Not! I'm sure you'll be fine.

When I was in school I worked in a large machine shop which was truly a great learning experience. Even today as an engineer I'm always thinking about how I would make something I design. Wire cut EDM took awhile for me to put at the front of my thought process, starting to get there with 3D printing.

Anyway, I digress. We had a good size gear shop I was able to work in for a couple of years. We didn't make hypoid gears but we made just about everything else including spiral bevel. Testing patterns and making adjustments to the Gleason grinders was slow and meticulous to say the least so I can relate to your pain. I bought a hob one time for resplining Ford 9" axles which came in very handy when I was narrowing rear ends. If you ever wonder the 28 & 31 spline 9" axles have a 24/48 45 PA spline. I still remember it. Can't remember my wife's name but I got that spline down:)

[MB750]

Sounds like a fun day, Not! I'm sure you'll be fine.

When I was in school I worked in a large machine shop which was truly a great learning experience. Even today as an engineer I'm always thinking about how I would make something I design. Wire cut EDM took awhile for me to put at the front of my thought process, starting to get there with 3D printing.

Anyway, I digress. We had a good size gear shop I was able to work in for a couple of years. We didn't make hypoid gears but we made just about everything else including spiral bevel. Testing patterns and making adjustments to the Gleason grinders was slow and meticulous to say the least so I can relate to your pain. I bought a hob one time for resplining Ford 9" axles which came in very handy when I was narrowing rear ends. If you ever wonder the 28 & 31 spline 9" axles have a 24/48 45 PA spline. I still remember it. Can't remember my wife's name but I got that spline down:)

Huh, I had no idea what hobbing was until you said it. I had no idea how splines were machined. Now I do. Thanks!

[MB750]

Just some notes from my test drive last weekend.

I really like the 3.73's! Yea 1st is a bit short, but if you do a rolling stop just keep it in 2nd. It's much more snappy going thru the gears too. And 70 is around 2400 rpm.

[MB750]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atjpIiYDIPA

It's not that I regret going with them, but that I'm disappointed so far. I've done a negative feedback blast everywhere I know how, let's see if anything happens.

[MB750]

Got this fun little ditty in my email inbox this morning:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=211708&d=1742578108

[Jeff Kleiner]

Maybe they needed the additional time so that the state of Florida could be notified that the Montana title was being sent to a Florida address :p

Jeff

[gbranham]

Did you really expect this to go well? What is your motivation for not simply registering in Florida, the state you live in? Trying to avoid property tax? Hope you have an LLC in Montana, and plan on keeping your FFR there the majority of the year, or you're in for some heartache. Most states are clamping down on the Montana tax loophole. Several of my friends here in KC are in a local exotics club, and many have run away from this Montana shenanigan, based on the contact they've received from our friends in the federal government over the affair. Good luck!

Greg

[Mike.Bray]

Maybe they needed the additional time so that the state of Florida could be notified that the Montana title was being sent to a Florida address :p

Jeff

That's funny! :o :o

[MB750]

Did you really expect this to go well? What is your motivation for not simply registering in Florida, the state you live in? Trying to avoid property tax? Hope you have an LLC in Montana, and plan on keeping your FFR there the majority of the year, or you're in for some heartache. Most states are clamping down on the Montana tax loophole. Several of my friends here in KC are in a local exotics club, and many have run away from this Montana shenanigan, based on the contact they've received from our friends in the federal government over the affair. Good luck!

Greg

I have an entirely separate thread on this, explaining everything.

Robbin already knows everything, my insurance is on the level.

[MB750]

For transparency's sake, I got my title on Saturday.

Still waiting for the man to come down on my hard like everyone around here seems to think will happen.

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216762&d=1753393067

Boredom struck me last weekend. Somehow I miscalculated the CR. I think I got bad data on my heads because all my math was based on a 58cc chamber when it's actually 64cc. That's annoyed me ever since I discovered it, and since I'm not using the car all that much this summer I ripped the heads off and dropped them off at an engine machine shop for milling. According to AFR, I can take .060" off them, which will put me at 10.5:1. I'll take it. I may even go with some 1.7:1 steel roller rockers too for even more snus.

[Mike.Bray]

216763

[Jeff Kleiner]

So I guess you're not going to sell it...at least not right away.

Jeff

[MB750]

So I guess you're not going to sell it...at least not right away.

Jeff



Man, I keep waffling about that. On one hand, this thing is fun in multiple ways. It keeps my hands and brains busy in the garage, which I love, but I don't really see an end game with it. Driving around, sunday joy-rides, occasional car shows and club meetings (if I were to join one). I've also put some neat little design features into it that I'd like to see if they last the test of time. Maybe I need to quit looking at everything like there needs to be a start and a finish and just enjoy it. There's really no financial need to get rid of it. I just want more room for the next project (which I'd probably just end up finishing and selling, then starting another project).

I could focus more of my energy inside the home. Those countertops aren't gonna upgrade themselves.

[MB750]

216763

I also pulled those damn drain plugs out of the block and will be replacing them with something I can easily drain the coolant out of the block without making a god awful mess if I ever have to take the heads off again.

MAN does that piss me off... I lose a quart of coolant every time just from mopping it up. It's not like I'm planning on taking the heads on and off every year, but just in case I'd like to make it as clean a process as possible.

[MB750]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216845&d=1753570552

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=216846&d=1753570552

[MB750]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHlfVmYqSi4

3.08 swap details.

[Mike.Bray]

This is how I set the backlash on mine. Turned out pretty good.

222563

[MB750]

This is how I set the backlash on mine. Turned out pretty good.

222563

Hope you mic'd them shim stacks. ;)

UPDATE:

In case anyone cares, I'm moving my build progress over to the other FFR forum. It's clearly obvious that I don't fit in here anymore.

Yes, I'm sure some of you old farts will find countless reasons to give me $hit for "taking my ball and leaving" but I have a rule in life; it's too short to have to deal with a##holes.