302/5.0L Alternator Bracket - March 30025-09

[JDFinley]

Installing a new alternator bracket is the first change I've made to my new to me Mk3.1 Roadster (introduction (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41962-New-Member-in-New-Mexico)). This has probably been discussed a thousand times, apologies if that's the case. I'm always pleased when a product fits, includes everything needed to install, and actually works - so I thought I'd mention this one.

My engine (302/5.0L) had the stock/OEM alternator bracket - the big, ugly aluminum piece that uses an idler pulley for belt tension. However; mine did not have the idler and there was no way to adjust belt tension. The belt was just loose enough that under high electrical load, the belt would squeal a bit (at the alternator pulley). Obviously, something had to change.

http://jdfinley.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/20220113_171215-450x600.jpg

http://jdfinley.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/20220124_141300-600x450.jpg

Some research indicated that the March 30025-09 was the bracket/kit to use (for an aluminum/silver appearance). Summit had them in stock and delivered it very quickly. The bracket was VERY well packed and protected from scratches - nice to see!

Installation was quick and easy. However; getting the correct belt required three trips to the auto parts store (a 16 mile round trip). That one's too short, that one's too long, that one's just right!! :p The winner was a MasterPro K060675 (or 6K675 or 68" O.C. or 1727mm O.C.) - that's the brand available at O'Reilly's. Fyi… that belt length is with power steering.

http://jdfinley.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/20220124_141230-600x450.jpg

The new setup looks much better and belt adjustment works just like you'd expect so a nice upgrade. I didn't break anything or create any unnecessary work so I'll call it a success!! :)

http://jdfinley.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/20220124_141225-600x450.jpg

[Avalanche325]

Definite improvement. Nothing worse than firing your cool car up and having a squeaky belt. That looks similar my CFR bracket. They make a full pully and bracket set for less than $300. In case you want more shiny stuff.

[JDFinley]

No doubt!! Yeah - definitely more shiny stuff planned but I have to pace myself. ;)

[swwebb]

Hope you have better luck than I did!! I had a similar bracket and tension rod arrangement. The bolt on the water pump sheared off, and it was a LOT of fun drilling the bolt out! We had to helicoil the threaded hole. I got a new one where the tension rod is between the alternator and the bracket so the bolt on the water pump is not stressed.

[JDFinley]

Hope you have better luck than I did!! I had a similar bracket and tension rod arrangement. The bolt on the water pump sheared off, and it was a LOT of fun drilling the bolt out! We had to helicoil the threaded hole. I got a new one where the tension rod is between the alternator and the bracket so the bolt on the water pump is not stressed.

Oh no.... didn't consider that. Thank you for the heads-up! Looks like I'll be doing a little fabrication. :(

[mburger]

Nice upgrade. Yep it’s nice when you get what you ordered, you ordered the right thing, it fits, it went in without creating more projects, it does what it was supposed to do and no trips to the ER! Good job!

[JDFinley]

Right - NO ER Visit! Forgot about that!!! :)

I am a bit concerned about the problem raised by Steve. There is a good bit of sideways 'push' on that one single bolt that is threaded into the water pump casting. The following crude image is my idea at a solution (the hand drawn red item). I'm imagining a bit of aluminum bar stock between the existing water pump bolt and the next one to the right (in this image). My thinking is that this will spread out the forces from one bolt to several (all of those connected to the power steering bracket). It will require a little fabrication, trimming one spacer and splitting/trimmer the other. I don't think that is a negative, other than adding to the assembly puzzle.

Anyone have comments on this and/or a better idea??

http://jdfinley.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/AltBracketTensionBoltSupport-600x450.jpg

Thank you!!

[narly1]

Anyone have comments on this and/or a better idea??
Thank you!!

How about taking the spacer at the water pump end of the turnbuckle out? That would allow you to use a shorter bolt, ideally short enough that the face of the turnbuckle eye is tight against and thus it and the bolt are better supported by the water pump against bending.

Then take that same spacer and put it on the bolt at the alternator end of the turnbuckle. (Note that you will likely need a longer bolt there.)

Earl

[rich grsc]

There is no reason to run the belt so tight that you break that bolt. I had a similar setup on my old car that I ran for years and never had an issue.

[Papa]

I agree with Rich. Here is what mine looks like:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161315&d=1643300047

Seems pretty similar to your setup. Sorry for the disgusting looking mess -- still cleaning up after the radiator leak and replacement. :o

[JDFinley]

Thank you all! It's comforting to hear that the bolt isn't breaking on everyone. I've got about 100 miles on it and all is well, so far.
Your photo is very helpful Papa - thank you! I think I'll make a couple small changes that I see in your photo. 1) Move the turnbuckle to the forward side of the alternator which will get me a little more space around the coolant neck and may allow the spacer to be shortened slightly. 2) Replace the OEM water pump bolt/stud with a bolt.