oil pan selection??

[Ford & Jeep Fan]

are there Any crossmembers under the engine in a FF roadster?? I know the fox chassis engines are popular but will an older front sump work just as well.

[GoDadGo]

No, there is no cross-tube under the oil pan; however, the tail of the transmission is very close to the rear 4" cross-tube.

The link below will let you see the chassis from various angles:

https://www.factoryfive.com/galleries/mk4/mk4-roadster-chassis/

Good Luck!

[Salty Chief 35]

Factory five recommends a rear sump oil pan. For the 351c here is a good link.
https://kevkoracing.com/products/f608-br-ford-cleveland-cobra-kit-car-pan
Respectfully
Jeremie

[egchewy79]

Biggest concern is choosing a pan that isn’t too deep. 7.5” is about all the room you have before it starts dropping below your frame rails. My stock pan was about 0.5” too deep

[Avalanche325]

If you are going to do autocross or track days, you want a pan with baffles. And, as stated, you don't want it below the frame. Gordon Levy has a good one that fits.

[rich grsc]

Kevco makes good pans that are VERY well priced, and they don't leak at the welds.

[Jeff Kleiner]

... and they don't leak at the welds.

I see what you did there Rich ;)

Jeff

[Fman]

If you go 7" deep you will never have an issue with being below the frame regardless of what engine mounts you are using. I contacted Gordon Levy and ordered the Champ 7" 8qt pan from him for my Dart 427. Has not leaked a drop yet and with solid engine mounts is up inside the frame. Would recommend to call Gordon he is very familiar with Factory 5 cars and will get you going in the right direction. A nice bonus with the Champ pan is the extra bung hole which will easily accommodate a speed hut sending unit for oil temp.

https://www.champpans.com/products/p/cp351lt-rr/

[egchewy79]

If you go 7" deep you will never have an issue with being below the frame regardless of what engine mounts you are using. I contacted Gordon Levy and ordered the Champ 7" 8qt pan from him for my Dart 427. Has not leaked a drop yet and with solid engine mounts is up inside the frame. Would recommend to call Gordon he is very familiar with Factory 5 cars and will get you going in the right direction. A nice bonus with the Champ pan is the extra bung hole which will easily accommodate a speed hut sending unit for oil temp.

https://www.champpans.com/products/p/cp351lt-rr/
no one's ever going to complain about an extra bung hole :) lol

[phileas_fogg]

x whatever on the Champ pan sold by Gordon. Comes complete with the oil pickup. More pictures & installation tips here: https://www.ffcars.com/threads/john’s-excellent-oil-pan-adventure.637338/


John

[davashcow]

The fifth post in that link is a bit worrisome.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

No issues with the baffles in my 8qt pan. These cars can generate pretty significant side loads when cornering. Front loads when stopping & rear loads when accelerating. This is the pan I chose for the Coyote, comes with an extended oil pickup. The pan gasket FORD is also a windage tray.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161299&d=1643227952

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161295&d=1643227564

[Railroad]

I did not get to test what the results might be, but my Moroso Coyote pan instructions, advised installing the pan with the engine in the upright position.
I suspect this would have to do with the trap door being flipped wrong and not hanging properly, if that makes sense.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I did not get to test what the results might be, but my Moroso Coyote pan instructions, advised installing the pan with the engine in the upright position.
I suspect this would have to do with the trap door being flipped wrong and not hanging properly, if that makes sense.

Might be a plan but over time have installed it on an engine stand & in the car. Picture is with original top baffle panel over the sump which was installed on the stand.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=161308&d=1643260329

This is a modified baffle panel that Moroso sent with a slot for the factory dipstick. They all come this way now.

This one was installed from the bottom as the engine was in the car. Both ways installed OK. Important thing is to make sure the trap doors in the sump swing freely

[burchfieldb]

Factory five recommends a rear sump oil pan. For the 351c here is a good link.
https://kevkoracing.com/products/f608-br-ford-cleveland-cobra-kit-car-pan
Respectfully
Jeremie

I just put that on my 351C. It was a bit of a choir to get the pickup set right, if you are using studs. ARP makes a stud with the smaller 3/8 threads at the top. If you decide to go this route, I can send you some pics and information on it. So you don't have to try and stumble through it. Kevco was unaware of the stud from ARP.

[rich grsc]

sorry wrong info

[Salty Chief 35]

I just put that on my 351C. It was a bit of a choir to get the pickup set right, if you are using studs. ARP makes a stud with the smaller 3/8 threads at the top. If you decide to go this route, I can send you some pics and information on it. So you don't have to try and stumble through it. Kevco was unaware of the stud from ARP.

Absolutely would like to see your pictures. I plan on starting going through my engine by the end of summer. I have already stripped and repainted the valve covers and replaced the water pump. My next project will be the oil pan and pump (did you go with the standard flow or high flow?) or the intake manifold. Currently my intake has nitrous ported directly into the manifold. It looks cool but is very old and the nitrous outlet guys said I shouldn’t try and use. I know an air gap would be way better for driving around town, but the old one looks proper on a hot rod. So I have that internal debate going on in my head. I’ll send you an PM with my email for those pictures.
Thanks
Jeremie