View Full Version : Test fititng the shell / What next?
Alex_V
01-23-2022, 11:20 AM
My build is slowly progressing. Got the radiator fan working, car runs without codes, no visible leaks, driveshaft is in....
I was going to test fit the shell, doors, hood and trunk next. But should probably put sound deadening material in the cockpit, carpet, install seats, seat belts...etc. Can I go ahead and put exhaust manifold gaskets and finalize exhaust pipes, or will I need to remove them in the future.
Any tips on a logical order of things after car passes initial gocart stage?
phileas_fogg
01-23-2022, 12:31 PM
I recommend a couple of test fits. The first test is to find out if the trunk or rear cockpit aluminum needs any trimming, and to make sure you've trimmed the forward and rear cockpit cowls enough to position the body forward enough AND get the rear cowl down into place. For this test, no bulb seal. Check the space between the aluminum and body where it gets bulb seal; you'll see if you've got enough space for it.
Second test is to try & fit the body permanently. Bulb seal in place for this one. See post #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?27617-Rear-body-mounting. Measure side-to-side position fore & aft using a steel ruler with the end against the shock mount out to the lip of the wheel opening. You should easily get left-right to match within 1/4", and with a bit of work to 1/8", though front will be different from rear.
You'll probably find the front outriggers need "adjusting" so that the front quick jack bolts don't pull the body to one side when you tighten them. You can either take the body off & whang away with a BFH, or use a 2"x4" in the front wheel well & BFH to move the offending outrigger. I put some tape on the floor & use a carpenter's square (one edge on the tape, the other tight against the 3/4" framing) to measure how far over I've moved the outrigger.
You'll also find that the front of the hood opening is about 1/2"-3/4" high off the framing at the front. This is what you want. You'll also notice that the top radiator support is not parallel to the hood opening. It may not be what you want, but that's how it is.
Once you're happy with the body, fit the doors & splash panels. Then you can open up the exhaust cutouts so that the pipes will fit (note that you have to remove the side pipes to remove the body, so get the body sorted first). At that point, you're on the downhill run towards tags & title.
John