Replacement Door

[HVACMAN]

I gave up on the drivers side door and FF is sending a replacement. Are there any problems I need to look for when installing the current generation door on my Gen1? Thanks in advance for any help.

[FFinisher]

Yes, I Gen 2 door is very different than a gen 1.

[sread]

Just a suggestion here, but have you tried fitting the door to the cutout without the frame? I can just about guarantee that the real issue is the frame. It seems the drivers door in particular had the frames welded up using a bad jig or fixture. Don't be afraid to twist, bend, or do whatever is needed to make the frame fit the door.
On the other hand, if the door won't fit flat in the cutout all by it self, then most likely you will have to cut/re glass the door or even try a different one. It is still quite likely that the frame it self will need to be massaged. Yes, you can shim it to a point but then you run into the issue where it hits some where else like you have seen.

[FF33rod]

Yes, I Gen 2 door is very different than a gen 1.

Not really. The inner and outer shells are different but once bonded together (as FFR ships) the Gen 2 doors fit fine on a gen 1 body. AND all the gen 1 internal structure for the door fits fine into the gen 2 door. You still end up dealing with issues of twist, lining up with the dash, etc no matter which version you have....

Steve

[HVACMAN]

Just a suggestion here, but have you tried fitting the door to the cutout without the frame? I can just about guarantee that the real issue is the frame. It seems the drivers door in particular had the frames welded up using a bad jig or fixture. Don't be afraid to twist, bend, or do whatever is needed to make the frame fit the door.
On the other hand, if the door won't fit flat in the cutout all by it self, then most likely you will have to cut/re glass the door or even try a different one. It is still quite likely that the frame it self will need to be massaged. Yes, you can shim it to a point but then you run into the issue where it hits some where else like you have seen.

Thanks sread. I will check it when I remove it to see if it fits flush. If it turns out to be the door frame, how would you tweak it? That is a pretty stout assembly.

[sread]

Lay it flat on a smooth surface and it should be pretty apparent that there is a twist in it. Basically you will want to twist it in the direction you are having to shim it now, i.e. bring the bottom front corner inboard. Clamp it down tight at one end and just use a piece of pipe (about 5 or 6 ft long) and it will be pretty easy to tweak it as needed. If I remember right, I think I just put a pipe wrench on the other end. Once you get it close, you should then be able to fine tune it with some shims along with the adjustment available using the slotted holes at the latch mount bracket as was mentioned by someone on the other thread.
BTW, I realize that this is all easier said than done - it is a real pain trying to assemble/disassemble the frame multiple times inside the door but once you do it enough times and you will kind of get it down to where it goes a little quicker.
As far as the top of the door being too low by 1/4 inch , again, I think they are pretty much all like that. It will just have to be built up. Mine was about 1/4 in at the front and maybe half that at the rear. I was fortunate enough to be able to secure some very heavy glass mat from a boat maker down the street that it only took one good layer followed by a skim coat of Rage to get it pretty close. Yes, the top of the door will now be quite thick , and the supplied dew wipes or whatever you want to call them from FFR will not work but they pretty much sucked anyways. Several others have posted better alternatives to use. I haven't tackled that part either yet on mine as I just wanted to get a few miles on it before starting on the top and windows.

[JimLev]

I also had the drivers door replaced. It wasn't much better than the original.
This is what I did to get the bottom to pull in.

160681

[HVACMAN]

I also had the drivers door replaced. It wasn't much better than the original.
This is what I did to get the bottom to pull in.

160681

Thanks Jim. That is where I had a 0.625 shim, which forced the frame bracket into the outer door skin deforming it. I have a house full of grandkids this weekend so it will be Monday before I get back to it. I'll try sreads and your suggestions.

[JimLev]

Mine was hitting the door too so I cut some of this part off.

160747

[HVACMAN]

Mine was hitting the door too so I cut some of this part off.

160747

Is that bracket used for the window install?

[FF33rod]

Is that bracket used for the window install?

Yes, that's to mount some of the power window hardware.

Steve

[HVACMAN]

Yes, that's to mount some of the power window hardware.

Steve

Thanks Steve. I thought it was the window chanel bracket, but I have been wrong before. lol

[FF33rod]

Yes, you are bang on - for the forward window channel guide. (A more accurate description than my generic power window comment)
From the manual:
161326

Steve