Struggling - newer version of Vintage Gauges

[Alex_V]

I am at a stand still, again.

Wired up my newer version of Vintage Gauges. The one with a three wire power distribution cable. I connected it black to black, white to white, and red to brown Gauge Feed from RF harness.

When I turn on the ignition nothing happens, start the car nothing happens. But when I pull down on lights switch, they all light up but no reading or motion on the needles. Speedometer LED display lights up, but nothing on it. Clock is only thing working cause I wired the red to a constant hot to keep it running all the time. I think Gauge Feed brown is what I got wrong. There are a bunch of them, I thought I just take any and connect to red on the daisy chain. Perhaps I shouldnt wire the Gauge Feed to the distribution chain? Something just doesnt connect in my brain.

Seems like I am missing out on something. Any pics or advice?

[Norm B]

Not quite understanding what you did. Each gauge will require the gauge feed to be wired to the proper sender/sensor. That would be why there are multiple wires available on the RF harness. One each for oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, fuel level, tach, amps or volts and maybe speedometer (not required for GPS speedo). Make sure the gauge is connected to the correct sender. You can damage some gauges with the wrong connection.

HTH

Norm

[Alex_V]

I have three wires that are part of power distribution cable - Black (ground), White (lighting), Red (Accessory power) - I think I am struggling with that one.

Speedo has - wires to blinkers, high beam, and speed memory.

What is the correct wire that goes to red power distribution wire? I am thinking I am getting that one wrong.

[edwardb]

Speedhut red should be gauge power. On the previous versions of the Speedhut gauges, lighting was white. I'm assuming the same for the newer ones you have. Speedhut changed all the FFR supplied gauges to LED backlighting. Which unfortunately doesn't agree with the instructions. Discussed in this thread a little while ago. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?38593-Vintage-gauges-and-wiring

[Alex_V]

Thanks, I believe I saw that thread. And mine certainly are newer LED gauges. I am content with not having a dimmer at the moment. Figuring out how to power the gauges on "key turn on" is what I struggled with yesterday.

I assume Red daisy wire is asking for a 12V source on "key turn" event, but the brown Gauge Feed (per original instructions) doesnt seem to do the trick. I am wondering if I made a mistake on how I wired the ignition, or perhaps just add a new wire from ignition direct to "Red" on the distribution cable.

I knew wiring will be frustrating, but this is beyond my expectations.

[edwardb]

Thanks, I believe I saw that thread. And mine certainly are newer LED gauges. I am content with not having a dimmer at the moment. Figuring out how to power the gauges on "key turn on" is what I struggled with yesterday.

I assume Red daisy wire is asking for a 12V source on "key turn" event, but the brown Gauge Feed (per original instructions) doesnt seem to do the trick. I am wondering if I made a mistake on how I wired the ignition, or perhaps just add a new wire from ignition direct to "Red" on the distribution cable.

I knew wiring will be frustrating, but this is beyond my expectations.

The brown gauge feed is an "accessory" circuit. You can see that on the Ron Francis wiring diagram in the Chassis Wiring Harness manual. So it won't be powered if you're turning the ignition key to the left (accessory) position. Turning to the right (run) it will be active. But shut off when in "start" mode fully to the right. Unless you're turning the key to one of the locations where accessory isn't powered, check the wiring on your ignition switch. Make sure the large brown acc feed wire is on the ACC post. Also you can check the fuse in the panel. The brown gauge feed wire in the dash harness is absolutely the right wire for your gauges.

[Papa]

Double check which "brown" wire you have connected to the ignition switch. There are two in the bundle (ACC Feed and Alternator IGN). Be sure you have the ACC Feed wire connected to the ACC lug on the ignition switch.

[Papa]

If you have the correct wire connected, check for +12v at the connection where you tied the brown wire to the gauge wiring. There should be power at that connection in either the ACC or run key positions.

[Alex_V]

Thanks, I will check my ignition wiring this afternoon. Car starts and runs, but its very possible I made a mistake on wiring. I recall not connecting one of the Alternator wires to ignition, since I am using stock mustang single wire alternator and those were the directions.

[edwardb]

Thanks, I will check my ignition wiring this afternoon. Car starts and runs, but its very possible I made a mistake on wiring. I recall not connecting one of the Alternator wires to ignition, since I am using stock mustang single wire alternator and those were the directions.

In your case you only need to connect the acc feed wire to the ignition switch. For your single wire alternator, you don't need the brown alternator wire at the switch. You can either remove it or tie it out of the way. Doesn't influence how the gauge wiring works BTW.

[Alex_V]

Double checked - the ignition Brown wire is on AC position. It gets power when turning the key, so lock mechanism is functioning. But no power at any of Gauge Feed brown wires coming out of RF harness. Therefore gauges are not getting power, but lights are working since they are powered by white wire. Is there more then one fuse? The one under the driver side floor box seems good.

[Papa]

Double checked - the ignition Brown wire is on AC position. It gets power when turning the key, so lock mechanism is functioning. But no power at any of Gauge Feed brown wires coming out of RF harness. Therefore gauges are not getting power, but lights are working since they are powered by white wire. Is there more then one fuse? The one under the driver side floor box seems good.

The fuse for the gauges is in the center section of the fuse block (three ACC fuses, one for heater, one for wipers, and one for the gauges). It's the one closest to the two flasher relays.

[Alex_V]

Wow. What a weird thing to chase.

1. my Gauge fuse was missing. I had a fuse for lights working, but didnt realize there was another one. I now have GPS speedo, clock, and Volts. Going to test all others tomorrow.

Thanks for all the support. I was almost ready to set the car on fire yesterday.