Spraying POR15

[Namrups]

Has anyone sprayed POR15? If so what did you use for a thinning agent. I know that there is a specific POR15 thinner but it is expensive. Just trying to see if there are alternatives.

[J R Jones]

I bought the thinner.
Failure and compromise is expensive to correct.
FWIW the thinner looks and smells like mineral spirits.
jim

[Jacob McCrea]

I understand that their thinner works the best; I wouldn't use anything else if I had to thin in. It may just be mineral spirits as Jim says. That said, I can't imagine any situation where I would recommend spraying that stuff on an automobile, especially a tube frame. I would anticipate profoundly toxic and damn-near permanent overspray, along with a lot of wasted product. If you are putting it on a bare frame, and are concerned about brush strokes in the frame, maybe brush it on at the lowest recommended temperature and hope it flows out nicely in the cold.

[Namrups]

I bought the thinner.
Failure and compromise is expensive to correct.
FWIW the thinner looks and smells like mineral spirits.
jim

How did it spray? Would you recommend spraying or brushing? I can understand Jacobs concerns just trying to get info from someone who has done it. Pros and cons.

[Jeff Kleiner]

What are you considering spraying the POR15 on?

Jeff

[Namrups]

What are you considering spraying the POR15 on?

Jeff

My Challenger is black with silver strips. On the edge of the silver strip is a narrow stipe of red. My vision is to paint the coupe the same. To help "bring out the red" I am going to coat all of the "normal" parts (front and rear suspension parts, spindles, IRS, steering rack, etc) with the POR15 safety red. Most coat these black. Having never used POR15 before I am just wondering what application method will give the "best" appearance.

[J R Jones]

namrups, Years ago I did a Mazda spring tower support with POR semi-gloss black and a touch-up gun. It came out fine with POR thinner. Pic attached.
I have done a lot of POR by brush, the primers are very tough and flow-out with little brush marks. As you know they are not UV stable and fade in direct sun.

I did my street rod suspension with POR primer and gloss black rattle can Top Coat. It looked great but I got two runs in the last two shock absorbers. I wet sanded them out and before the subsequent Top Coat I wiped them off with wax/silicone remover and the Top Coat melted off on the rag. I was upset and contacted POR customer service but they blew me off.
I had to top coat all the POR painted parts with urethane clear. I will not accept that POR top coat vulnerability. I do not know if the non-aerosol top coat is solvent safe or not.
If I had it to do over I would use epoxy primer and urethane top coat.

BTW I tried POR engine paint (brush-on) on a vintage 327 SBC. It was fine on castings but I had to do the stampings with spray due to brush marks.
jim

[Namrups]

namrups, Years ago I did a Mazda spring tower support with POR semi-gloss black and a touch-up gun. It came out fine with POR thinner. Pic attached.
I have done a lot of POR by brush, the primers are very tough and flow-out with little brush marks. As you know they are not UV stable and fade in direct sun.

I did my street rod suspension with POR primer and gloss black rattle can Top Coat. It looked great but I got two runs in the last two shock absorbers. I wet sanded them out and before the subsequent Top Coat I wiped them off with wax/silicone remover and the Top Coat melted off on the rag. I was upset and contacted POR customer service but they blew me off.
I had to top coat all the POR painted parts with urethane clear. I will not accept that POR top coat vulnerability. I do not know if the non-aerosol top coat is solvent safe or not.
If I had it to do over I would use epoxy primer and urethane top coat.

BTW I tried POR engine paint (brush-on) on a vintage 327 SBC. It was fine on castings but I had to do the stampings with spray due to brush marks.
jim

After reading the documentation on their web site I am under the understanding that the Rust Preventive base coat (in my case gray) is not UV stable but the Top Coat (in my case the red) is UV stable. If that's not the case, oh well, because I've already purchased it.

[jts359]

use the best respirator you can buy when spraying this stuff ! A remote air supply would be best , Ed

[Jeff Kleiner]

After reading the documentation on their web site I am under the understanding that the Rust Preventive base coat (in my case gray) is not UV stable but the Top Coat (in my case the red) is UV stable. If that's not the case, oh well, because I've already purchased it.

It's usually best to listen to the manufacturer rather than chatter on the interwebs ;)

Jeff

[Namrups]

It's usually best to listen to the manufacturer rather than chatter on the interwebs ;)

Jeff

:cool: