Can't get car to first start, need some help.

[BeePea]

Team,

I've had my engine in for a couple of months now and I am unable to get a first start out of her. I got the fuel pump to kick in once or twice, but not even that for awhile. I figured I would chunk out some of my wiring with you all and hopefully you can help me diagnose where my issue lies. My engine is a 363 from Forte with a Holly Sniper.

For my first chunk I figured I would detail out my ignition. I am running the Digital Guard Dawg (DGD) PBS1 ignition system. To confirm, the ignition does light up and I can hear it "click" when I push the button. The "click" comes from the DGD box and will continue until I turn the ignition off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159845&d=1641577563

My wiring from the diagram top to bottom:

DGD Red +12V Battery connected to Ron Francis (RF) Red-HDLT SW 1 Feed & Red-Ign SW-> SOL
DGD Black Chassis Ground connected to the frame, second image below
DGD Purple Starter/Crank connected to RF Lt Blu-EFI Crank Power & Lt Blue-Ign SW->NW SW (note: I have performed the clutch bypass for now and connected these two together instead of the clutch switch)
DGD Pink Ignition connected to RF Org-Ign Feed -> IGN SW & Pink Ignition wire from Sniper
DGD Pink/Black Accessory 1 -- not used
DGD Brown Accessory 2 connected to RF Brn-Acc Feed -> Ign Sw & Brn-Alternator Ign Sw
DGD Brown Brake connected to brake petal switch, third image below
DGD Purple Ground upon Disarm connected to chassis ground location, second image below


Main wires:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159842&d=1641577189

Ignition Ground:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159843&d=1641577196

Ignition connection to brake:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159844&d=1641577203

Thank you so much for helping me troubleshoot this journey! After this will be the Sniper wiring, then a final post for engine wiring; those grouping should cover me off for getting the engine to come to life.

[Rdone585]

I can't really tell for sure but the first thing that catches my attention is your ground connection. You indicate it's shown in the second image. All the surfaces appear to be painted or have a black coating. Did you grind away so the ground has a direct connect to metal? Poor ground connections can lead to issues that are difficult to track down or to diagnose, so check those carefully. As a quick check you could run a ground wire jumper directly to the battery as a test. If you have one a good ohm meter will help you to track down what works and what doesn't. You could use it to checkout the brake switch and make sure it hasn't prevented the circuit from activating. Are you also running a neutral safety switch, or a clutch engaged switch. If you are those could also be evaluated to make sure they are in the proper state. Another culprit for me in the past is the inertia switch. If had it go off and prevent the fuel pump from running. Every car is wired differently with different components so it takes diligence to cover all the possibilities.

[BeePea]

I can't really tell for sure but the first thing that catches my attention is your ground connection. You indicate it's shown in the second image. All the surfaces appear to be painted or have a black coating. Did you grind away so the ground has a direct connect to metal? Poor ground connections can lead to issues that are difficult to track down or to diagnose, so check those carefully. As a quick check you could run a ground wire jumper directly to the battery as a test. If you have one a good ohm meter will help you to track down what works and what doesn't. You could use it to checkout the brake switch and make sure it hasn't prevented the circuit from activating. Are you also running a neutral safety switch, or a clutch engaged switch. If you are those could also be evaluated to make sure they are in the proper state. Another culprit for me in the past is the inertia switch. If had it go off and prevent the fuel pump from running. Every car is wired differently with different components so it takes diligence to cover all the possibilities.

I did grind the paint away, yes. The clutch switch is bypassed. Inertia switch shouldn't be an issue as the fuel pump is wired directly to the sniper, I have also checked and confirmed that fuel pump wire works by jumping it at the sniper end to the battery and the fuel pump starts. I certainly think something is up with the Sniper, likely wiring related, but I wanted to start at the top first.

[sread]

I'm no electrical expert but a couple things caught my eye - first, those pre-insulated hardware store butt splices and terminal ends are notorious for for making poor crimps that are not easy to spot... second, in the second picture, the purple wire that joins into the large black cable appears to be pinched about 1/2 inch from the terminal end - may just be the picture, but worth looking at

[BeePea]

I'm no electrical expert but a couple things caught my eye - first, those pre-insulated hardware store butt splices and terminal ends are notorious for for making poor crimps that are not easy to spot... second, in the second picture, the purple wire that joins into the large black cable appears to be pinched about 1/2 inch from the terminal end - may just be the picture, but worth looking at

I'll check the purple one in the second picture, the other ones should be good. This is actually my second round, I had it this way at first, then undid it all and put in the normal turn key, got the same, no response, so I put the push button back in.

[phileas_fogg]

Two thoughts: Call DGD and confirm the unit is supposed to click. On my very early version of the PBS-1, a click indicates a system malfunction.

Second, I seem to recall that the DGD accessory 1 is hot at start, and accessory 2 is not. If you are powering the RF harness via accessory 2, then you are interrupting power to the Sniper computer & it won't run. To verify the computer remains on during start, look at the Sniper handheld; it will go dead if power is interrupted.


John

[BeePea]

Two thoughts: Call DGD and confirm the unit is supposed to click. On my very early version of the PBS-1, a click indicates a system malfunction.

Second, I seem to recall that the DGD accessory 1 is hot at start, and accessory 2 is not. If you are powering the RF harness via accessory 2, then you are interrupting power to the Sniper computer & it won't run. To verify the computer remains on during start, look at the Sniper handheld; it will go dead if power is interrupted.


John

I have had the sniper computer come on, in the beginning (when the fuel pump also worked) the screen came on clearly. Now the screen fades in and out like the volts to it isn't strong enough.

[edwardb]

Two thoughts: Call DGD and confirm the unit is supposed to click. On my very early version of the PBS-1, a click indicates a system malfunction.

Second, I seem to recall that the DGD accessory 1 is hot at start, and accessory 2 is not. If you are powering the RF harness via accessory 2, then you are interrupting power to the Sniper computer & it won't run. To verify the computer remains on during start, look at the Sniper handheld; it will go dead if power is interrupted.

John

Don't know about the clicking. But that's correct. Both accessory circuits are hot with the first push of the button. Acc 2 turns off during starter cranking. But that's exactly how the RF wiring setup works. There are three sections in the RF panel. Battery, ignition, and accessory. Each are powered by separate wires. Red direct from the battery, brown for accessory, and orange for ignition. The connection between the DGD and RF wires in post 1 looks OK. I have the DGD in my Coupe wired the same way and it works perfectly. If the same wires on the ignition switch, wired exactly like the RF wiring diagram shows, don't work then something else is wrong beside the DGD. For my Coupe build, I did all the initial wiring without the DGD and just the ignition switch. Including first starts, etc. Once I was convinced everything was working properly, then replaced the ignition switch with the DGD. Eliminates dealing with too many variables at the same time. I'd recommend the same here.

[BeePea]

Don't know about the clicking. But that's correct. Both accessory circuits are hot with the first push of the button. Acc 2 turns off during starter cranking. But that's exactly how the RF wiring setup works. There are three sections in the RF panel. Battery, ignition, and accessory. Each are powered by separate wires. Red direct from the battery, brown for accessory, and orange for ignition. The connection between the DGD and RF wires in post 1 looks OK. I have the DGD in my Coupe wired the same way and it works perfectly. If the same wires on the ignition switch, wired exactly like the RF wiring diagram shows, don't work then something else is wrong beside the DGD. For my Coupe build, I did all the initial wiring without the DGD and just the ignition switch. Including first starts, etc. Once I was convinced everything was working properly, then replaced the ignition switch with the DGD. Eliminates dealing with too many variables at the same time. I'd recommend the same here.

Thanks for the review of the photos and mapping. This is actually my 2nd time with the DGD, I already removed it once for the standard key setup.

Sounds like the ignition is set up correctly. I'll put up another round with my sniper wiring next.

Thank you!