Cockpit's finally done!

[Smada001]

After much 'fun', I finally got the cockpit 99% done. All that remains for me to install are the bezels for the ebrake/shifter, get boots made for ebrake/shifter, and put the side door carpet on after body is dropped on.

Mods made:
Carbon Fiber dash (it was literally the last one FFR had on the shelves, found behind a box)
Digital Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition system
Dead pedal extension for driver footbox
Under dash panel w/ two 12v outlets
Rocker switches under dash for lights/hazards
Interior LED strip lighting under dash
Quick-release steering wheel
Vinyl trans top (removable)
Driver seat front/back slide (7deg recline for both)
Cup holders
Glove box between seats on back of cockpit w/ vinyl covered door
Duck clutch on/off switch by driver's thigh on trans tunnel
- hand control shifting system for clutch pedal
Brake bias knob hidden behind extinguisher

Granted not the nicest cockpit that's been on these forums, but I'm happy with the result. Tomorrow I'm wiring up all the lights for one more check as well as drilling the bolt holes in the roll bar and its mounting bars. Final body mounting is planned for Wed.

Any big tips for drilling/aligning holes for the roll bar? Yes the roll bar was test fit with the body on and holes were opened up, I just forgot to drill the roll bar bolt holes at the time.

[bil1024]

Fantastic

[AC Bill]

Coming along nicely! Always feels good to finally get the dash wired and on.
Is that a reverse lock out button, or perhaps a line lock on your shifter knob?

Will the MKIV body, now having the pre-rolled area above the dash, cover the upper part of your dash, where the frame protrudes above it? Not sure how the MKIV body now rests at that spot, you may have the dash just a little bit low on the frame.
On the MKIII there was sometimes a bit of a gap in that area. A material covered dash would fill that gap in, if some of the material was left loose at the top, and tucked back. On the carbon fiber or solid type dash's, the mounting of the dash was often left until the body was first fitted, so it could then be tucked up higher if needed.
Some builders actually made adjustable mount brackets for the dash, to allow for any variance needed.

Just a thought..

[Ray]

Any big tips for drilling/aligning holes for the roll bar? Yes the roll bar was test fit with the body on and holes were opened up, I just forgot to drill the roll bar bolt holes at the time.

Are you talking about the bolt holes that attach the hoop to the straight leg? I used these (http://www.tangentkits.com/Roll_Bar_Kits.php) from Tangent. No visible "Frankenstein" looking bolt through the roll-bar and a really nice clean look. Plenty strong enough for street use. If you need to drill the holes to attach the bars to the lower mounts, I think you'd be safe just to slide the bars down as far as you need/want, mark the hole and drill them. Blow the holes out with some air and install the bolts.

Hope this helps. The car look good and the dash is beautiful. There are boots already made for the e-brake and shifter if you'd rather not go to the trouble of having them made. Check with the vendors....

Ray

[AJ Roadster NJ]

Looks very nice. One comment -- I don't believe you are supposed to use the black foam along the top of the cockpit wall, only along the two sides. Based on how mine fits, having the foam there may cause two issues; first, the body will not settle properly towards the rear, and second the foam will force the body too far forward (and may actually be visible under the cockpit edge).

HTH.

AJ

[riptide motorsport]

Sweet! what if you took a cup holder that match's the ones you have and cut it just under the lip and mounted it as a bezel around the shifter.? Then they all would match.

[jakester888]

Very nice - like the carbon fiber look.

Noticed you have a go-keyless system... any comments on this? Are you planning to hide that forever behind the dash? Does it work as you expect?