Dash issues

[Doug er]

I'm building my first car, a MK4 complete kit with the vintage gauges. The dash that was supplied was pre drilled with knockouts for the larger vintage gauges.

Question 1) If I put the dash where the steering column is centered I cannot get the left gauge in place do to the frame. If I move the dash down to where I can get the gauge in I think the dash is too low, barely above the steering column and not being able to get a screw into the top of the dash into the arched 3/4" tube. See photos attached.159406159405159404159403

Question 2) It seems like the holes for the gauges are too big. Mind you, I don't have any material on the dash yet. Please let me know if you have had the same issue and if it worked or not.

Please let me know if you need anymore information. Thank you for any insight you may have.

Doug S.

[Chadillac]

I noticed the same thing with mine. I'm not sure what the solution is, or if this is a new problem or not.

The only solution I could think of (besides getting a blank dash and re-drilling holes) is to make little 90 degree brackets that hang underneath the arched 3/4" tube that I can screw my dash into. However, this leaves a good portion of the arched tube exposed at the top and I'm not sure if the body will cover that up or not. I was going to test fit my body as soon as my wheels come in to check.

[cob427sc]

My 2 cents would be to get a blank dash and drill new holes for your gauges wherever you want them. Not sure on how quick you can get one out of FFR but you could easily cut your own out of a sheet of aluminum.

[txboiler]

I am running into the same issue. I was thinking about the 3/4” angle bracket approach. I think it was Gtbradley that did this in his build thread. The added advantage of that is being able to remove the dash screws with the body on. I plan to use the dash sent with cutouts for go karting and then possibly make a new one over the winter.

[egchewy79]

corners of the dash should be about 1/4"-1/2" BELOW the frame. manual has it above the frame but this interferes w/ the hoop frame behind it as you've noticed. I centered my steering shaft left/right in the hole but it sits in the upper 1/3rd of the cutout.
I attached my dash using angled pieces of aluminum that I bolted to the underside of the hoop dash and 3M dual lock velcro-type material. the lip of the body cowl will hide the visible dash hoop above the center of your dash.

[Doug er]

Thanks for all the information above. This Forum is a great resource for all information FFR. Egchewy79, I did some more research today also and found a post by Jeff K stating that both the passenger and drivers side should be 3/16" below the top of the 3/4" hoop. There is no way I can lower my dash that far without drastically filing the steering slot. My issue is if I put the drivers side at 3/16" below the hoop top, my steering shaft is touching and if I set the passenger side at 3/16" it is a good 1/2" to high looking at the 2" frame below. In order for the 2" frame to look parallel the passengers side needs to be 9/16 below the top of the hoop and that leave a good 1/2" below the hoop in the middle. See pictures.

So now the question is: 1) is it OKAY to make the steering slot longer? Will I be able to cover it up? 2) Should I trim off the dash that is above the 3/4" hoop on the drivers side? 3) maybe COB424sc has the right idea, get a blank dash and start over.

Thank you all for your input, it is appreciated.

Doug S.

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[CDXXVII]

I think your best bet is to wait until you set your body on. Everything will become clear at that point. I don’t see any reason to open up the steering opening.

I will try and find some good photos for you.

[frankeeski]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159551&d=1641011823

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159551&d=1641011823

Hey, that photo looks familiar :) :) :)

The only time I have ever needed to open up the upper portion of the shaft hole was when I spaced the pillow block up to provide extra legroom under the wheel for a customer who is very tall.

Jeff

[CraigS]

If you search for dash install info you will find it is very common to use brackets like chewy described. If you were to run screws through the dash into the 3/4x3/4 frame tube they will be covered when the body is installed. So that explains some of your question. Why you seem to need to open up the steering column hole I will leave for others who have had more recent experience than I have to discuss.

[egchewy79]

do you have washers under your pillow block bearing causing the upper steering shaft to sit at a higher angle? Some of us needed to put some washers under the bearing to keep the steering shaft from rubbing on the frame. if so consider using a thinner washer to still get clearance but drop the angle of the upper shaft a bit. you pic looks like you dash is pretty much sitting on the steering shaft. you could also open it up a bit and get a bezel trim piece from replicaparts.com to hide it.

[Doug er]

Thank you all for your input. I did not need any washers under the steering block and yes, to get the dash to 3/16" below the top it will sit on the steering shaft. So for now....I have a friend that is local and has built a few FFR roadsters. He has volunteered a blank dash he has laying around. I'll see if that has the same issues. Also, I think CDXXVII has a great idea of fitting the body over to see how it fits. If the body covers all the inconsistencies of the top of the dash that will also help me lay out where to fasten the dash for a symmetrical pattern. I'll post the outcome.

Thank you all for the help. It amazes me the amount of support this forum has.. This is one of the main reasons I bought FFR. Thank you!

Doug S.

[Norm B]

I had the same issue with the blank dash but it was easily solved. The dash was put in the position I wanted it and then marked on the back side along the top of the frame dash hoop. To get the dash parallel with the 2 inch frame about 3/4" had to be removed on the drivers side tapering to nothing by the middle of the hoop. Life size pictures of the gauges were printed and used during one of the body fittings to decide on gauge placement. With the steering wheel in place and the seat located where I wanted, I sat in the car and stuck the pictures on the dash with two sided tape mimicking the comp dash layout. I think the speedometer is the only gauge that is exactly located according pdf file I have of the comp dash.
Note, I didn't come up with any of this by myself. A forum search and a couple of questions answered by the guys that actually know what they're doing solved my problem.

Happy New Year Everyone

Norm

[Doug er]

Well I have procrastinated on the dash for as long as I can. I didn't need any washers for spacers and have almost a 1/4" gap between the shaft and the frame. With the dash sitting on the steering shaft you cannot get the left gauge into it's cavity the back ring won't clearance the frame. My guess is possibly the bracket welded to the frame for the steering mount may be at an incorrect angle or my steering shaft hole is miss placed? Either way this dash won't work on this car. I checked the Factory five web site and didn't see any blank dashes with out the steering hole. And none were in stock. So I guess I need to make a dash. If you have any suggestions, please, I would love to hear them. 170570170571

I have attached 2 photos, one with the body set on and the other with the gauge in place with the dash sitting on the steering shaft, note the gauge is pushed as far down as possible to get it in. (No turning of the lock nut in back.)

[Ted G]

There are many issues with the FFR dash boards. I really think they need to address this issue....especially because so many builders use the Russ Thomson turn signal (which poses even more steering shaft issues). I have a carbon fiber dash and almost made the mistake of using the dash template for the steering wheel hole; if I did, I'd be buying another $500 dash from FFR.

Good luck but I'm sure you can enlarge that dash and then fill in the gap below with some sheet metal.

Ted

[phileas_fogg]

The bottom of the steering shaft opening is 1" from the bend at the bottom of the dash, and the opening is 2 1/4" tall. Do these dimensions match what you've got on your dash?

Just checking to see if perhaps the steering shaft opening was cut too low.

I never used the stock dash; If you find your dash has the opening lower than mine, you're welcome to it. Just send a DM.

And if you decide to make your own, check out https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/material?q=%3Aprice-asc%3AMaterial%3AAluminum%3AShape%3ASheet%252FPlat e%3AAlloy%3A6061%3AThickness%3A0.04%2522. They've got the 6061 Aluminum sheet in 0.04 thickness that F5 uses for their panels. You can select "Create A Custom Cut" to get the dimensions you want.


John

[Chopper]

W Either way this dash won't work on this car. I checked the Factory five web site and didn't see any blank dashes with out the steering hole. And none were in stock. )

I don't think this will help your issue, but Factory Five's online inventory is not the best. If you want to check stock, call or email them.

If you're covering the dash, you could try elongating the hole as suggested, and make a two piece filler for hte bottom, a piece on the back for support, and then a piece of .040 aluminum to fill the void and make it flat so the covering doesn't show anything.

[chjort]

You might consider switching to the S/C dash layout. I CAD'd the dash, with the S/C layout and had a local metal shop laser out a new dash. It was less than 200 bucks if I recall. PM me if you want the CAD.

[Doug er]

phileas_fogg, thanks for the offer, mine measures 7/8" from the bottom but the length of the hole is 2 3/8" Equates to the same top dimension of the steering column hole. I'm going to the Metal Supermarket to see if they carry the aluminum needed. If not I'll be using your link. Thank you!!!

chjort,, Thanks for the offer Ill check out a couple of local shops to see if they can process this material and shape. Thank you!!!

As always this forum is a great recourse, thanks all and I'll let you know what and how I end up making the dash.

[Doug er]

So I finally almost finished my dash. Many thanks to everyone who responded to this thread. It is an accumulation of all the above that got me to where I am now. Thank you all!!!

I started by purchasing a sheet of T6061 .040" aluminum. I trimmed the ends to match the original, then took it to a local sheet metal manufacturer to add the bottom bend. I then made the steering hole larger in the original dash and temporally attached to the car. I used masking tape to create about a 1" hole. Transferred that hole to the new dash and made a 1 1/8" hole with a hole saw for the steering column. Next I added the steering wheel and seat and sat in the car with gauge sized cardboard cutouts for all the gauges. I Moved the large gauge from the left and moved the gas gauge to the left. (I wasn't happy with how close the large gauge was to the frame and how close the body comes to touching the gauge.) I then drilled all the gauge and switch holes. Covered with an auto grade leather which brings me to the next issues....173478173479173480

The Vintage Air heater that comes from FF comes with only 1 nut for the switch to attach to the dash. With only 1 nut the threads stick out too far into the interior of the car. So at the very least I need a nut but would prefer a knurled check nut in chrome. Does anyone know what size that thread is? I have attached a picture of the switch with a knurled check nut next to it. 173477

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you, Doug S.

[Scott L]

Hey Doug er - A confession of sorts... I can't tell you how often I have taken a part like this to Ace hardware and tried nuts till I found the right one. At my ace, they also have chrome. Good luck.

[Nigel Allen]

If you can't find a nut, then pack it out with a couple of washers behind the dash.

[Doug er]

Scott L Thanks I've already tried Hectors and they have a pretty good selection but none of these. I'll venture out to Ace to see what they have. Thank you!!

Nigel, Sometimes I'm just an idiot, thanks that will work if I can't get a knurled/decorative nut to fit. Thank you!!!

Thanks everyone for the help and support.
Doug S.