FFR power steering and lower shaft?

[sohcrates]

I recently put my FFR supplied power steering rack in and then moved on to the steering shafts and bearings. I assembled it as instructed, but it seems the lower shaft is too long. Has anyone run into this, or is there something obvious I am missing? The lower U-joint is on the steering rack shaft as instructed, with the set screw landing in the smooth portion of the shaft between the two sets of splines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158847&d=1639920916

The upper u-joint is attached to the upper shaft with the upper shaft flush in the joint, as instructed. The u-joint is right up against the flange bearing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158849&d=1639920916

If the lower shaft is flush in the upper u-joint, it protrudes into the lower u-joint by about 1/2", which definitely interferes with the lower u-joint. If I slide it up a bit, it protrudes into both u-joints by about 1/4" and seems not to interfere with either u-joint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158850&d=1639920916

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158851&d=1639920916

Is this OK? The manual is pretty specific about the lower shaft being just flush...

[Indy Shu]

Others have moved the upper bearing flanges to the inside of the foot box to gain a little space.
Or, since it’s known to be a little long, I don’t see a problem trimming it to length.

[sohcrates]

I thought of trimming it too, but didn't know if it was necessary. I'll test fit it with the bearing on the other side and see how I like that. Thanks for the tips.

[FFinisher]

Turn that upper bearing around so the collar with the set screws is inside the footbox. reassemble and you'll be all set.


Also. you will have to take it apart to install the footbox front panel anyway

[rich grsc]

As others have said, turn the bearing around AND move the flanges to the inside. I've been doing it that way on my builds and for the friends I've helped

[sohcrates]

Thanks guys. Yes, I didn't tighten everything down, knowing I would still have to finish the footbox. That is on hold right now while I resolve my brake issues. I had intended to do Forte's hydroboost, but he can't get the required spacers from FFR and they are telling me that part is 6+ months away from being available, so I'm not sure I'll do that. I might consider the whitby vacuum booster, but don't really want to cut the frame, and don't know what kind of vacuum I'll have available yet. I might just get the wilwood front brakes and stick with the non boosted brakes. I have a decision to make there.

[CraigS]

Moving the bearing to inside the footbox will also be real nice when you need to adjust the shaft by a spline or two at the rack to get the wheel centered. W/ the bearing on the engine side you have to remove the rack to get the shaft to come off the splines. With it inside it is much easier since you just remove the bearing bolts and slide the shaft toward the driver.

[sohcrates]

Beautiful CraigS. Thanks for that!

[egchewy79]

FYI if moving the bearing to the inside of the footbox, you'll need to trim a bit off the top to clearance it from the wilwood pedal box assembly.

[sohcrates]

The top of the bearing needs to be trimmed?

[egchewy79]

The top of the bearing needs to be trimmed?

if you put it on the side of the footbox, then yes. or you could trim the bottom of the pedal box assembly. you'll see once you try installing the pedal box.

[rich grsc]

The top of the bearing needs to be trimmed?
No, not the bearing, the flanges. They are just stamped steel, no issues cutting the edges off. Very easy to do, much easier than the pedal box

[egchewy79]

No, not the bearing, the flanges. They are just stamped steel, no issues cutting the edges off. Very easy to do, much easier than the pedal box

correct. not the actual bearing but the flange that holds it in place.

[sohcrates]

Rich, how did you do power brakes?

[rich grsc]

I used a vacuum booster from a Geo Metro. It is a small diameter booster, so no cutting of the frame tubing, but it requires some back yard engineering.
Here is where I got the idea from: https://www.ffcars.com/threads/my-booster-mod-new-pictures.153915/

[sohcrates]

Thanks for that Rich. I'm really struggling with this brake decision and it is paralyzing me, along with progress on my build. I'm hesitant to cut the frame to make room for something like the whitby booster, and I'm not sure I'm up for the engineering required to make something like your solution work with the wilwood pedal box. Forte's hydroboost will require a spacer from FFR that is at least six months out. I'm leaning towards ponying up for the wilwood front brakes and sticking with the unboosted wilwood pedal box. I'll ask Mike Forte what he thinks about fabricating that spacer without FFR's help.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Honestly there is nothing to fear with cutting the frame. On every car that I have built using a Mustang pedal box I have done so and incorporated a Fox vacuum booster. I make my own simple replacement for the removed section but if you’re more of a “buy it” rather than “build it” sort of guy you can use the Whitby frame piece.

Jeff

[FFinisher]

Honestly there is nothing to fear with cutting the frame. On every car that I have built using a Mustang pedal box I have done so and incorporated a Fox vacuum booster. I make my own simple replacement for the removed section but if you’re more of a “buy it” rather than “build it” sort of guy you can use the Whitby frame piece.

Jeff

100% agree with Jeff!

[Norm B]

Here is a picture of the frame mod Jeff mentioned. It was suggested to me by either him or Mike Everson when I did my power brake upgrade. You can see the SS pet dish mod in the splash panel at the top right of the picture. This is required for master cylinder clearance.
Making the brake hole bigger in the foot box front is more challenging but, still easily accomplish with common tools.


HTH

Norm

[sohcrates]

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm sure you all remember how much your attitudes and comfort levels have changed since you were only ankle deep in your first build. I was so paralyzed by this set of decisions. After a great deal of agonizing and lots of looking for other opinions, I decided to stay with manual brakes and upgrade to the Wilwood front big brake setup. I'll try it that way and change course if needed after I drive it.

After having success chopping up the rear spindles for the IRS I guess I'm a little less hesitant to cut into things. Sometimes the sheer volume of work ahead of me makes me want to take the easiest way through a particular task, even if its not the best, or cheapest way to do it. I've been busily gathering up parts lately, and am looking forward to some actual assembly...

[nucjd19]

As an aside I love your username :) Keep on eating that elephant. You will look up sooner than you know with a finished build.

[sohcrates]

Thanks for the encouragement!