Eastman Kids Cobra Build - Complete Kit [Archive]

Serenity

12-20-2021, 05:31 PM

We have 6 kids and unfortunately I had been sick for a long time and was unable to get a diagnosis. 5 years ago I was finally diagnosed with Celiac Disease which is an auto-immune disease. I haven't been able to do as much with my kids as I would've liked, so I was looking for a project to make memories with them - something they would remember. My older sister passed away from cancer shortly before I was able to receive a diagnosis. My uncle also passed away from Covid relatively early on in the pandemic. I desired to build a Factory Five Roadster for a number of years, but never saw this becoming a reality. During a dark time, my wife was OK letting me accelerate this project so we could build it together (me and the kids). We have 6 kids with ages between 4 and 15 (we homeschool). My job requires a lot of travel, so I'm generally not around a whole lot, but due to Covid, there is a narrow window that my traveling will be reduced (for a bit).

Here is what we are going to build -
Complete Kit
IRS
Engine TBD
Powder Coated Chassis
Power Steering
Stainless Side Exhaust
Vinyl Dash w/ Glovebox
Heated Seats (Cobra Heat)
Russ Thompson Turn Signal
Russ Thompson Gas Pedal
Breeze Cockpit Storage Cubby
Breeze Radiator Fan Shroud + upper/ lower mounting kit
Breeze Engine Compartment Battery Box
Breeze offset mounting for Power Steering Rack
Breeze Installation Kit for Classic Seats
Mechanical Throttle from Mike Forte
....plus lots more that I'm forgetting...
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Since I live in Southern California, I opted not to do air conditioning or heat, however I will add heated seats. I was debating whether or not to create a build thread since there are so many excellent ones, but since I'm enjoying following so many other builds right now, it seems like a good thing to do. My intent is NOT to build a show car, but something fun, and something my kids can help with. For me, this is about making memories with them. I couldn't think of a username, and since I'm a fan of the tv series Firefly, I opted to use Serenity for my name.

Kit was ordered on 4/28/21 and took delivery on 11/18/21.

Serenity

12-20-2021, 06:38 PM

On September 29th, we decided it was time to get the jack stands ready and to build the body buck. I wanted the jack stands to be on wheels so I could move the car around as needed and I saw someone else build something similar, so I decided to do the same thing. Reagan helped me get the jack stands ready and yes, we did strap them down for safety as seen in later pictures.
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Carter was ready to tacks the Body Buck, and since this qualified for his math lesson for the day, I let him go for it. Reagan helped, too!
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Nigel Allen

12-20-2021, 06:39 PM

G'day Serenity,

That build sheet ticks all the boxes for me, if I was to build again. Plenty of fun times ahead. :)

I just saw your modified jack stands in your second post. I am concerned about the casters not being spread wide enough. In the picture, the caster is rotated so that it is pretty much directly under the stand, indicating that the stability is poor. Modifying jack stands is risky and although the idea has great merit, I just don't think they are safe.

Cheers,

Nigel

Serenity

12-20-2021, 06:45 PM

In following some of the other builds, I saw that some attached wheels to the body buck, and that seemed like a good, idea! Reagan tackled that project using the casters from a moving dolly we no longer needed:
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I went and looked at the body buck the following day and the foam around the top was melted... It took me another week to figure out what happened, but the window on the side of my house reflects the sunlight directly where I had the car positioned. Thankfully I saw this and moved the car into a different position so the fiberglass shell wouldn't endure this reflection for an extended period of time. I'm not sure if it would hurt the body or not, but regardless, I'm thankful to have caught this early-on.
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Fman

12-20-2021, 06:50 PM

Congratulations, looking forward to following your journey. What a great experience for your kids they will definitely learn a lot during the process.

Serenity

12-20-2021, 06:51 PM

G'day Serenity,

That build sheet ticks all the boxes for me, if I was to build again. Plenty of fun times ahead.

Cheers,

Nigel

Thank you, Nigel! I saw you went with the Coyote. I gave that some serious consideration and would have loved that, but in the end I decided to go with the 347. I think it will be more inline with my skill set....well see...

Serenity

12-20-2021, 06:59 PM

On October 22nd, we decided that the body buck should be painted, so everyone pitched in. The younger ones helped for about 2 minutes until they decided it wasn't so fun anymore, but the other kids stuck with it until it was finished. I started with just black spray paint, but wasn't happy, so we primed it and then used Behr house paint "Race Car Red". Seemed appropriate....
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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:05 PM

The car was finally delivered on 11/18, and we were pretty excited. It was either going to be delivered on the 17th or 18th, and unfortunately I had video conference calls scheduled for most of the 18th, but this was the perfect excuse to miss those calls. My kids, dad, and neighbors were there to help, so it was great! The driver was fantastic and couldn't be happier.

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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:14 PM

On November 20th, it was time to remove the body, and Kadence helped remove the necessary hardware for this. This required the help of my wife, Kadence, and Carter. Yes, having some extra hands for this process was very helpful.
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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:19 PM

Kadence & Carter helped me label and identify all of the panels. This is helpful familiarizing ourselves with the different panels, but in the end I don't think we needed to label everything. We labeled everything with the panel item# as well as whether it was "over" or "under" another panel. I took a lot of pictures so I can reference them later and maybe this will be a good thing. We completed this as part of our inventorying....

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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:25 PM

Well, there was a lot of reasons that I couldn't do this prior to the car arriving, but if we are going to build a car, we definitely needed to look like we knew what we were doing. My neighbor's garage is soooo clean and organized and he has 2 classic cars and a lot of neat neon lights & decor. My garage has been, well, a garage. It's where I used to park our cars, but I never spent much time in the garage other than for small projects. On December 8th we decided it was time to make some changes.
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I even put up some Christmas lights:
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Regan has been spending a lot of time with me going to Home Depot and just running errands. It's been great spending some time with her, too! That's what this project is about - making memories.

It wasn't all roses. In addition to setting up the pegboard, I also painted the garage, patched the holes in the drywall, and ran conduit, installed 4 new outlets and 4 overhead lights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGBKDKZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Unfortunately when I was installing the conduit, I sliced my finger and ended up at Urgent Care. I was told it was a 2hr wait, but a surgeon called me within minutes of me sitting down. Apparently I was the only patient with a laceration, so he had me on my way in about 20min. He gave me option of 4 stiches or he could glue it back together. I opted for the glue, but typing was truly difficult for the next week.
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Overhead lights finished:
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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:39 PM

Since there were a lot of back-orders, we decided to start on the aluminum panels. I had never used cleco's before, so it was kinda fun. I've seen picture of them, but never knew how they worked. Carter, Marcus, and Reagan all helped with drilling, cleco's, etc. I'm sure I'll make some mistakes along the way, but this isn't going to be a show car, so I'm good with everyone helping! All of us are learning as we go...

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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:45 PM

Kadence has been helping quite a but, so it's been an enjoyable project.

Kadence marked the Firewall panel and picked the location for the rivets:
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Center punch & drilling the panels:
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Drilling the chassis while Carter removes the screws holding the panels:
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Looking good so far:
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Transmission tunnel....ok, mabe we got a little carried away with the drilling and cleco's.....
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Serenity

12-20-2021, 07:55 PM

I had really toyed with either powder coating the panels or using a bedliner type spray. I really did like the raw aluminum and didn't wan't to cover it all up, so I experimented with different patterns, etc.... I had already scratched up the panels pretty good by being careless, and I swear, Aluminum scratches just by looking at it. I knew I would have my work cut out to clean up my carelessness....
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In the end I decided that I really like a brushed look. It was relatively easy to do and then I would coat the panels with Shark Hide. We used a large piece of wood as a guide for brushing the aluminum so the strokes were consistent:
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F Panel test - to see if we liked the finished look:
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This is with the Shark Hide coating and I think it looks great. Now only about a dozen more panels to do....
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Serenity

12-20-2021, 08:02 PM

Well, we received a backorder for the Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms and Toe Adjustment Arms. I'm still missing part of the Toe Adjustment Arms, so Kadence helped me identify and assemble what we could:
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Serenity

12-20-2021, 08:09 PM

Kadence ran over to Home Deport with me where we purchased 7/16-14 threaded rod, nuts, jam nuts, and coupling nuts. Unfortunately they didn't have any 1" or 1.5" bolts, so I used 1.5" threaded rod with a jam nut + nut. For final assembly I was thinking about using blue loctite on the nuts, but let me know what you think. This seem like it should work OK, but who knows, maybe I'll just buy a bolt from McMaster.

Cleaning up the threads:
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Rear view:
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Under the car view:
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Any concerns regarding this installation?

Serenity

12-20-2021, 08:18 PM

Kadence was my big helper for this project and it was more difficult that I anticipated. Yes, I read that I should probably have installed the rear differential first as the control arms might get in my way, but I'm a glutton for punishment, so we pressed on. I'm still waiting for the bushings to mount the rear differential anyways.

As you can see below, things don't exactly line up and I'm not strong enough to flex this steel to make it work:
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I also purchased threaded rod for this exact scenario which I had read about from other informative builds. Unfortunately, every time I would expand the opening, the wrong side would expand:
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It just took a little more creativity to make everything align just right:
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I was concerned about the zerk fittings being sheared off if the lower control arm dropped all the way, so while it is kinda difficult to see, I zip tied the other & lower control arms for the time being. I had read some build threads where these were installed upside down, so between constantly checking the manual & pictures, I also made sure the zerk fittings were facing down.
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Everything pretty well until I got to the upper control arm on the passenger side and I could only get the bolt (closest to the cockpit) "most" of the way in. I was just misaligned enough that I could NOT make it align. I ended up using a wratchet strap to pull it down just enough so I could hammer it in. Again, it just took a little but more creativity and finesse.

jts359

12-21-2021, 09:08 AM

Hi, just friendly advice "Safety Glasses " Ed

John Ibele

12-21-2021, 10:49 AM

Hey Serenity, welcome to the fun, and kudos for doing a build thread and most of all, including the kids in the build. What a great idea! If you get tired of doing the build thread you could always share that duty with the kids ... although with 15 posts in 2 days I think it's pretty clear you don't tire easily.

I have to make a comment about safety, and please understand it's well intended and written out of concern for you and the kids. I'm new to this kind of work but I've spent plenty of time under my car on a creeper by now, and I would never do what you've done with the floor jacks. I'm gonna cringe whenever I see a photo with one of your floor jacks in the picture. One recent example - I was using a pickle fork to pick up the tail of my transmission to put spacers under it. I needed leverage. After a few attempts I realized I had braced my foot against the base of the rear PS floor jack, and was pushing pretty hard on the bottom. It wasn't budging but the point is I did it without thinking, and I shudder to think of what would have happened with wheels below the jack.

Just my opinion, and far from the most experienced opinion on this forum. No one will be bashful about chiming in if they think I'm off base.

Back to the good stuff ... good choice with the SharkHide. Painting the panels is something I wouldn't do if I were building again. And your threaded rod "convincer" ... only needed for a brief time in the build, but when it's needed there's no substitute!

Keep those updates coming ... you'll be done by the time I post my next build update :)

Serenity

12-21-2021, 09:26 PM

Hi, just friendly advice "Safety Glasses " Ed

Thank you, Ed! Yes, I actually went out and bought 6 pairs of safety goggles and 50 dust masks!
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I think I look pretty good, too! We'll be wearing masks/ goggles when drilling from now on.
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Serenity

12-21-2021, 09:32 PM

Serenity

12-21-2021, 09:44 PM

OK, I decided to was time to order some of the other components I'll be needing:
http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/russ_garage.htm
Ordered the Drop-Trunk Mod from Russ Thompson

https://www.breezeautomotive.com/
Ordered the following from Breeze Automotive:
70648 Big Bore Vent Check Valve Kit
70772 Radiator Fan Shroud
70551 Lower Radiator Support Kit
70558 Heavy Duty Hinged Radiator Shroud
70561 Engine Compartment Batter Mounting Kit
70602 Installation Kit for New Steel Frame Classic Seats
20360 1/8" All Aluminum Rivets

I also bought a LockNLube Pistol Grip Grease Gun, too! I've never had great luck with zerk fittings and I really like how this attaches to the zerk fittings and how it is easy to remove. I had an older grease gun that I've had for years, and when I pulled it out of my drawer, it had leaked grease everywhere making a huge mess. I didn't want to buy another cheap one, and this seemed to have good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SVGHNPV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My radiator also arrived from Factory Five today, so I'm pretty excited about that, too! It's looking like I'll be needing to add another pegboard to my garage to hold additional tools as I've pretty much maxed out my existing space, but I'm loving how I can see all of my tools and grab what I need when needed. It also makes cleanup so much easier.

John Ibele

12-21-2021, 09:46 PM

Classic shot with the headlamp and safety gear! Nice!

Relieved to hear the background on the Quick Jacks. Sounds like a solid plan.

jts359

12-22-2021, 08:12 AM

GoDadGo

12-22-2021, 08:17 AM

Welcome Aboard & Welcome To The Factory Five Family!

.................You all just embarked on an amazing journey!

Serenity

12-22-2021, 12:12 PM

My Daughter used to help me restore cars and at 31 years old if I need help she will come over and give a hand , Anyway she would autograph unseen parts of the car and years later I have got a couple of calls from people who now own the cars who found the autographs , Ed

I love that! I'm hoping that I'll have the same relationship with my kids as they grow up!

Serenity

12-22-2021, 01:13 PM

Welcome Aboard & Welcome To The Factory Five Family!

.................You all just embarked on an amazing journey!

Thank you! I've enjoyed following your build and different threads. You've had quite the experience and I've learned a lot just by following your threads...

GoDadGo

12-22-2021, 02:43 PM

Thank you! I've enjoyed following your build and different threads. You've had quite the experience and I've learned a lot just by following your threads...

Take a look at Edwardb's (Sir Paul B.) two MK-4 build threads and you'll see how things really should be done.
Any advice given to you by Mr. Paul, 65 Cobra Dude, Erik Treves, or Jeff Kleiner is advice worth taking.

Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!

Serenity

12-22-2021, 04:57 PM

Take a look at Edwardb's (Sir Paul B.) two MK-4 build threads and you'll see how things really should be done.
Any advice given to you by Mr. Paul, 65 Cobra Dude, Erik Treves, or Jeff Kleiner is advice worth taking.

Good Luck & Happy Wrenching!

Thank you! Yes, I have so much respect for you as well as the other's you mentioned. I've been following Edwardb's build thread, and it has been helpful. I probably shouldn't have installed the rear upper/ lower control arms until I installed the rear differential, but I'm a glutton for punishment. I'll stick to primarily working on the aluminum until I get more parts...

Serenity

12-26-2021, 12:44 AM

12/23/21
I haven't had as much time as I would've liked, so progress is slow. Was trying to wrap up some work projects before Christmas and spending more time in the evening with the kids. We took the kids to Bainbridge Circle last night to see the Christmas lights, and it is impressive as always. I'm taking my time working on the aluminum panels since there is little else I can do right now. I should have some parts arriving next week that I'm looking forward to.

The kids also helped me organizing the tools again. I installed more pegboard since I ran out of room, and unfortunately I managed to make that project twice as hard as it should've been, but it came out pretty well....just had to do some extensive drywall repairs....🙄. There are a few more tools I'm looking to add to my collection, including a welder...

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Serenity

12-26-2021, 12:56 AM

12/24/21
Received the Drop-Trunk Mod from Russ Thompson today and Carter and I decided to go tackle it. If I didn't over think it so much, it would have been relatively straightforward. I was hesitant to cut into the trunk, but after measuring 3x, we started it. Hopefully we'll finish it tomorrow or over the weekend. We had an earlier Christmas Eve dinner tonight, so I wasn't able to work on the car as much as I would've liked, but trying to err on family time! Carter did just about all of this project with my supervision, so far!
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Serenity

12-26-2021, 01:00 AM

I finished assembly of the Drop-Trunk using silicone and riveting the box together. I've always enjoyed fabrication, and this was no exception. On the other hand, I also managed to make this the most difficult install ever. Russ Thompson's directions are great, but add the human factor, and there I am. In the end, I'm actually quite happy and I'm glad I did this....it'll be well worth it once the car is finished. I still need to trim the opening a little more, but maybe I'll tackle that tomorrow.

Let's see...Carter and I greased the Rear Upper/ Lower control arms using my new LockNLube grease gun and I LOVE it, as much as you can love a grease gun. Night and day difference from other grease guns I've used.

I was lamenting awhile ago how some garages have cool neon lights/ decor, but my garage is pretty plain. Knowing I would never buy it myself, my wife and the kids bought me an awesome neon light and a neon clock for Christmas. I didn't take a picture of the cool clock, but I'm sure it'll show up in a future post.

Anyways, I hope you have a Merry Christmas!

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jiriza84641

12-26-2021, 01:09 PM

Build is looking great, The kids are doing an outstanding job.

WIS89

12-27-2021, 09:22 AM

My Daughter used to help me restore cars and at 31 years old if I need help she will come over and give a hand , Anyway she would autograph unseen parts of the car and years later I have got a couple of calls from people who now own the cars who found the autographs , Ed

Ed-

Thanks for sharing this story; I love it!! What a cool thing for your daughter to have done, and pretty cool that folks call you about it years later. Kids are awesome!!

Regards,

Steve

WIS89

12-27-2021, 09:31 AM

Serenity-

I have enjoyed reading about the progress of you and your family! What a wonderful experience to share with your kids, and I know they will become cherished memories!

Thanks for allowing us to follow along, and I wish you nothing but continued success. I know the memory of this build will sustain you long after the build is complete!

Awesome!

Regards,

Steve

Serenity

12-27-2021, 02:57 PM

12/26/21
Drop-Box Adjustment & Mounting Panels

I squared up the opening for the Drop-Box trunk. Everything is more square and better aligned....that section is done for the time being.
Siliconed and riveted both F Panels, A-Wall (transmission), firewall, and started assembling the passenger footbox. It doesn't look like we accomplished much because I probably spent half the time cleaning up and double-checking things. To start with, I applied silicone to the wrong side of the first F-Panel....😳. Cleaned it all up and started again. I've learned that Windex and alcohol are excellent for cleaning up wet silicone.

The instructions are slightly vague as to using 1/8" short or 1/8" long rivets. From what I can tell, people are using 1/8" short rivets for panel to panel and small cross member attachments and 1/8" long for attaching panel to larger metal beams. I've generally been using 1/8" short rivets with a few exceptions.

I'm loving my pneumatic riveter! So much fun.

Carter spent quite a bit of time with me today and Kadence popped out for a bit, too! Everyone else has been sick for the last few days with fevers, sore throats, and runny noses. Levi was 103.5 last night with Tylenol, so no one is sleeping great.

As I'm following some other builds, I was every slightly discouraged at the quick progress of some of the other threads, but then I reminded myself that this isn't a race, and my goal is to spend quality time with my kids on this project. My goal is for my kids to do as much of this build as possible....hence the slower progress...and I'm ok with that. I also have very limited time during the week and weekends to work on this. With 6 kids + homeschooling + working full time, I don't have a lot of free time.

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Serenity

12-29-2021, 01:19 AM

Passenger Footbox is almost done. Carter is sick with a fever and Kadence is better, so she helped me tonight. Did some work on the passenger footbox, so slowly making progress. Oh, I also picked up a 20 ton hydraulic shop press, too! This will come in handy later in the build. There is something satisfying looking at cleco's 😎 and who doesn't love riveting? There won't be any rattles in this car 😂. I might need to buy some more rivets though...lol...jk...

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Serenity

01-17-2022, 11:39 PM

January 13, 2022
We'll, I'm returning to the land of the living. Rough day yesterday, pretty severe joint/ muscle pain and fatigue, but finally well enough to make it back to the garage. Still working on aluminum panels, and Kadence and Reagan helped drill holes, cleco, silicone, and rivet. Reagan's learning the tools and how to cleco and rivet, too! So cool!!! I get to supervise! Carter had a bit of a relapse and spent most of the day in bed with fatigue.

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Serenity

01-17-2022, 11:52 PM

1/15/22
Kadence, Carter, Marcus, and Reagan all spent quite a bit of time in the garage helping button up the passenger seat aluminum. We are ready to start working on the driver's seat area, too. We spent quite a bit of time measuring/ marking the driver seats floor so we are ready to start drilling/ riveting. We also tentatively mounted the front upper/ lower control arms. I know a lot of people have had difficulty installing the ball joints, so I wire brushed the paint off the threads as noted and had no issue threading it in. Applied blue loctite to the ball joints. My girls picked up some signage for the garage at Hobby Lobby while they were shopping today. Made me happy 😁. We'll be spending tomorrow with my parents/ nieces/ nephew. We haven't gotten together since Thanksgiving due to illnesses, so glad we're all recovered and can spend some time together.

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egchewy79

01-18-2022, 07:01 AM

i think the manual calls for red loctite on the upper BJs. just make sure you put a witness mark on the BJs so you can see if they're backing out or a tack weld if you have that available.
glad to hear that you and the fam are recovered.

Qballz

01-18-2022, 08:04 AM

egchewy79

01-18-2022, 09:23 AM

Build manual shows a picture of blue loctite being applied to the UBJs.

interesting, my manual called for red. i only remember b/c I didn't strip the anticorrosive coating off the threads and had to remove it with heat/impact gun. They must have changed it. regardless, put a witness mark with a paint marker so you can see if it starts unthreading over time.

ggunter

01-18-2022, 11:55 AM

That is the nicest body buck I've seen. Nobody paints a buck. And with all that help you should be driving by Easter. Great job, I can't think of a better family project.

Serenity

01-19-2022, 02:12 AM

Thank you! I thought we were supposed to use the red permanent loctite, too, but here is a picture from the manual showing blue medium strength.
I included the tube that I used - placing it next to their picture in black/ white:
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I did mark ALL bolts with a paint marker so I can check this, too!

Serenity

01-19-2022, 02:33 AM

Reagan helped me torque down the front suspension (and mark all torqued bolts) and start drilling the holes in the aluminum for the drivers seat. Kadence & Carter had karate tonight, but afterwards they helped drill holes, too! I finally developed enough courage to cut the rear spindles and they turned out OK. Used my new 20 ton press to press out the wheel studs and insert the new ones. All in all, tonight was good. I'm sure the neighbors are glad when I finally call it a night, too!
Some of the other builders thought I should have used red permanent loctite for the ball joints, but the manual showed blue medium strength. Either way I marked it with a Sakura solid paint pen so I can see if it starts to back out at all.

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ggunter

01-19-2022, 03:12 PM

Yea red lock-tite is for stuff you never want to come apart again because it usually take a torch to heat it up to release it.

Fman

01-19-2022, 11:44 PM

Serenity, you are making some nice progress!

Are you planning on cutting the rear UCA sleeve? Highly recommend it with or without power steering. Just had a friend complete his mk4 without power steering and had to pay alignment shop $500 to cut them down because they could not properly align front end without them being cut. If you were not aware of this or how to do it reference first page pics of my build thread.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35778-Fmans-Dart-427-build-9818

Serenity

01-20-2022, 12:12 AM

You have no idea how glad I am that you shared this. I had been reading up on this but I was a little confused. I just read your build thread and your pictures were unbelievably helpful! Yes, I will be trimming my sleeves/ bolt this weekend. Thank you again!

Serenity

01-22-2022, 01:18 AM

I close friend of mine recently visited the Shelby American Museum and bought me something special :)

Drilled the rear spindles, mounted the hubs, torqued and marked the bolts. Marcus, Kadence, and Carter all helped mark/ drill holes. Assembled the Emergency Brake handle, but had a few extra parts left over. I'd like to use some of the small washers to shim a gap between the push pin & ratchet teeth, but I'm going to go back to the forums as I know some people had difficulty with this. All in all, a great day!

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Serenity

01-22-2022, 11:37 PM

Let's see....trip to AutoZone to pick up some hydraulic fluid for my 20 ton press... I checked the fluid level when I first got it, but apparently didn't snug up the fill port very well. Ok, Carter drilled a few more holes. We trimmed the front upper control arm sleeves/ bolts (back ones) just to make sure I wouldn't have any issues during final alignment. I used a hack saw for the sleeves and a tabletop grinder for the bolts. The bolts should have been coated with anti-seize, but there was little evidence of it, so after cleaning up all the parts, I decided to apply it liberally ��. Ok, I used a lot less for the other bolts. I'm always amazed at how that stuff makes a mess. Disassembled the emergency brake and painted the steel parts with Rust-Oleum. I'm contemplating making some changes during assembly, so doing a bit more homework on that.

Here is what I'll be attempting to follow for the emergency brake:
http://www.sunshinegaragemkiv.com/build-blog/e-brake-modification.html

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Serenity

02-07-2022, 12:27 AM

1/29/22
Just over a week ago my left eye developed acute iritis and I ended up at urgent care and then saw an opthalmologist at Kaiser hospital the following day. It started exactly 14 days after I felt recovered from Covid. Related? I don't know. Some research suggests there might be a correlation (hhttps://www.scientificamerican.com/article/covid-can-cause-strange-eye-and-ear-symptoms) but hopefully I'll know more this coming week. The steroids help until they wear off, but really hoping this resolve itself soon. I see the opthalmologist next week and he'll be doing more testing.

That being said, I had ordered some parts for the emergency brake and they finally came in so Carter and I spent some time fabbing it up. Here is what we need to do:
http://www.sunshinegaragemkiv.com/construction-steps/emergency-brake.html

So far it's coming out ok! Loved spending time with Carter today.

Here are the parts I ordered + a few misc. bolts and spacers that I picked up at Lowes tonight.
---
Lokar S-8070 Parking Brake Connector; QTY: 1ea
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lokar-S-8070-Parking-Brake-Connector-Block,274778.html...
* NOTE: the thread for this is 5/16-24

3434T24 Pulley for Wire Rope for Horizontal Pull, with Bearing, for 1/4" Diameter, 1-3/4" OD; QTY: 2ea
https://www.mcmaster.com/3434T24/

91259A622 Alloy Steel Shoulder Screw, 3/8" Shoulder Diameter, 3/4" Shoulder Length, 5/16"-18 Thread; QTY: 1ea
https://www.mcmaster.com/91259A622/

8910K393 Low-Carbon Steel Bar, 1/8" Thick, 5/8" Wide, 1 Foot Long; QTY: 1ea
https://www.mcmaster.com/8910K393/

I just ordered the below tonight:
92620A616 Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw, Grade 8 Steel, 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 4" Long, Fully Threaded; QTY: 1ea
https://www.mcmaster.com/92620A616/

5/16-24 Stainless Steel Stop Nut (Nylon Insert) (10-Pack); QTY: 1ea
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAVLBMM

I also picked up some steel at Lowes and heated it with my torch to bend it to make my clevis.

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Serenity

02-07-2022, 12:31 AM

Saw the ophthalmologist last week and steroids are helping with inflammation. Will continued steroids for another 3 weeks due to some inflammation as well as to taper offer the steroids. The current consensus is this was a side effect from Covid.

Alright, finished up the emergency brake and I’m overall happy with how it turned out. I received the bushings for the rear differential on Saturday, so I was pretty excited to get this into position, too. I saw that some people needed to trim the metal insert for the forward bushing 1/8”, so I fitted them and realized I needed to trim mine too. My hacksaw made light work of them and then I put them back together. All good! I used my QuickJacks to help lift the rear differential into position. I mounted it PERFECTLY, only to realize I hadn’t chased the forward bolt openings with a larger drill bit yet, so I took it back out, used my drill to chase the bolt mounts, and then lifted it back into position again. Considering I did this part of my own, it really wasn’t to bad. Levi kept me company and held my tools while we started the assembly of the pedal box.

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Serenity

02-14-2022, 12:36 AM

I had some concerns when I first assembled the pedal box, so we took a closer look and made a slight modification to hopefully prevent any issues down the road. So far I'm happy with this and then we re-assembled it.

It was a bit of a rough weekend, and due to back-ordered parts, and incorrect mounting hardware, didn't do too much. The bolts for the Steering Bearing hardware were the incorrect bolts (wrong size/ length). I checked almost every bolt/ hardware, when I received the kit, but this was in a sealed plastic pouch, so I partially assumed they would be correct. I've since ordered the correct bolts on mcmaster.com.....25 of them...lol... I only needed 4, but since they come in a pack of 25, I guess I'm getting 25. I do have some stainless steel bolts that would probably work just fine, but I opted to order the exact replacement bolts/ lock nuts.

The Steering Arm "bolts" are back-ordered and I need to mount the Steering Arms before I mount the hubs/ rotors/ brakes, etc.... Factory Fives Specs. for this hardware is 12.9 Grade Bolts, which is the highest grade and generally used for heavy equipment. Since Steering is a critical component, I ordered these from mcmaster.com, too. Mcmaster.com only offers the receptive nuts in a grade 10.9, which is significantly stronger than anything Home Depot might have, so I bought those too, another bag of 25...lol. I had been waiting to order enough hardware to justify the freight costs, but that's been accomplished.

Factory Five provides a single reservoir for brakes and a single reservoir for hydraulic clutch. The brake pedal is attached to 2 master cylinders (front brake & rear brake). They provide a Y pieces to connect both master cylinders to a single reservoir. If there was a failure, then you'd potentially lose front/ rear brakes. Alternatively, if you used a separate reservoir for front brakes and rear breaks, you've built redundancy into the system so in the even of a failure, you'd still have some braking power. While I'd love to have a triple aluminum/ chrome reservoir, I opted for the below plastic one to try and keep within budget:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TQ0D18

I'll fab up a mounting bracket/ plate for this, but it should work just fine.

I was reading another forum where an aircraft engineer uses Loctite 290 (medium strength wicking grade for bolts up to 1/2") on fighter jet applications AFTER the hardware is torqued down. This is applied afterwards and wicks into the threads. I might try this on bolts that do not have a designated torque spec...we'll see... I don't think it will hurt anything...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FCH82C

Loved spending time with Kadence & Carter working on this!

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John Ibele

02-14-2022, 03:17 PM

Good updates, glad to see your progress. Tough bounce with the eye problem, hope that's well on the recovery trail. Couple observations - looks like you're on a path you like with emergency brake, and there are a lot of ways to address the limitations of what comes with the stock kit and setup. Some simple tweaks can make it workable, including the Lokar piece and cable pulleys you included. Just remember you lose some of the designed mechanical advantage with any extension of the lever used below the pivot point on the brake lever itself. That's one argument for limiting that extension to the bare minimum you need. Second, glad you went to the dual brake reservoirs - in any form or price point - over the single one. That's a safety item, plain and simple, and probably the first 'upgrade' people should consider. Such a large % of builders do that, its sometimes hard to remember it's not part of the standard build.

Serenity

02-20-2022, 12:27 AM

In addition to some prep-work for installing the battery box & radiator, we primarily worked on the Tilton Triple Reservoir Mod. As noted in previous posts, we elected to not use the Factory Five Reservoir and went with the Tilton Triple Reservoir. This presented some initial challenges since the hoses that connect the master cylinder to the reservoir are 1/4" and the attachment to the Tilton Reservoir is I believe 3/8". No problem. Trimmed the attachment points on the Tilton, drilled it out with a 5/16" drill bit, and then tapped it with a 1/8" NPT tap. We then used 2 of the Edelmann 831240 (Fitting, Adapter, NPT to Hose Barb, 90 Degree, Brass, Natural, 1/8 in. NPT, 1/4 in. Hose Barb) and threaded it in (using teflon tape to help seal it. These adapters were included with the Factory Five supplied reservoir, so I just needed 1 more which I purchased from Summit Racing and it will be coming sometime soon... I'm planning to rivet the aluminum bracket with rivets to the chassis, near the footbox.

We then installed the rear axle shafts and mounted the the rear spindles/ hubs. The axle shifts inserted perfectly, no issues. We're still missing a few parts for the rear suspension, so we just did what we could. With the rear spindles installed, we were able to torque down the rear upper/ lower control arms.

Was all of this necessary (reservoir mod) - maybe not. To my family, this project is more than just building a car. It creates teachable moments for my children, so they can learn how to use tools/ build things with their hands. For me, it is a needed outlet for dealing with some health issues (Celiac Disease & some related complications). Some people have purchased the Tilton Brake & Clutch Fluid Hose (74-221) and connected them to the Factory Five supplies lines using an adapter. Had I done it this way, it wouldn't have been as clean of an install, and the brake and clutch lines (where they attach to the reservoir) would have been significantly lower than the master cylinders. It probably would have been ok, but not preferable.
Parts:

Tilton Reservoir (72-576 RESERVOIR, 3-IN-1,Plastic, Push-On)

Edelmann 831240 (need 3ea)
Fitting, Adapter, NPT to Hose Barb, 90 Degree, Brass, Natural, 1/8 in. NPT, 1/4 in. Hose Barb

1/8" NPT Pipe Tap

5/16" Drill Bit, but if you have a High Speed Type R, drill bit, I think it would have been easier.

5/8" Grommet for the 1/4 hoses; 3ea

1/8" Sheet of aluminum trimmed to size; 1ea

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Nigel Allen

02-20-2022, 02:55 AM

Nice job adding the right angle barbs. Exactly how I did my reservoirs. Still perfect 10 years later.

facultyofmusic

02-20-2022, 03:39 AM

Sir Enity, you are FLYING through your build! Fantastic progress for just a few months. Thanks for the notes on pedal box hardware interference with the master cylinder boot. I'll have to go check mine...

Serenity

03-06-2022, 04:02 PM

The kids bought me some coveralls for my birthday and a cobra patch which they'll sew onto it. I almost look like I know what I'm doing. Carter, Kadence , Madison, and Reagan helped me install the battery box. This is one of the mods that I picked up from Breeze Automotive. The benefit is having the battery in the engine compartment vs. in the trunk. It is easier running the power cables and some people have had issues running a long power cable from the trunk to the starter. This frees up much needed space in the trunk compartment, will make it slightly easier to run the power/ ground, and it will be better using a shorter power feed to the starter. To install the battery box, we needed to measure, drill, and tap the 4" main cross beam, so Carter did most of the drilling and Reagan/ Madison helped tapping the threads. We used medium strength Loctite on the 2 bolts going into the 4" beam for added security. Pretty happy with this decision so far.

Started running the brake lines (Carter helped me with this, too!). I'm not entirely happy with how we ran the front brake lines, and I may redo this, but for now it's fine. We'll re-evaluate this as the build goes on. We used Dot 3 brake fluid to coat the threads of the brake lines before tightening. This is supposed to help them seat properly and reduce any chance of them leaking. We'll see! Ran the front brake lines to the master cylinder. We drilled a hole through the aluminum patch (cleco'd in the picture) and used a grommet for stability.

I've never made my own brake lines before so it it was a good learning experience. I need to redo the brake lines on my Jeep at some point, so I'm feeling more confident in tackling that project, too!

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Railroad

03-06-2022, 04:17 PM

If you have any issues bleeding the brakes, it might be the loops higher than the master cylinder. Others have said, they had no issues?

Serenity

03-07-2022, 12:54 AM

If you have any issues bleeding the brakes, it might be the loops higher than the master cylinder. Others have said, they had no issues?

Thank you, Railroad! I was thinking the same. With the Tilton reservoir, a bike pump needle can fit into the vent on the top of the reservoir and use some pressure to help bleed the brakes. I think that will help. I'm hoping to attempt to bleed them in the next week or so... I'm planning to run the rear brake lines this coming weekend and then start bleeding them.

Serenity

03-13-2022, 06:47 PM

Alright, we spent Saturday tying up a bunch of loose ends. Reagan and I took apart the rear brakes and checked the torque setting of all Rear IRS components & rear brake components. I was missing the hardware to attach the rear calipers to the rear spindle, so I ordered those from McMaster on Saturday morning and they were delivered a few hours later....remarkable!

We marked/ drilled the drivers side aluminum and Carter and Reagan applied the brushed look to it. I think it looks great! We also started running the rear brake line and I'm ready for the next section, too!

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JB in NOVA

03-13-2022, 09:59 PM

Just caught up with your build. So cool how you've gotten the whole family involved. Looks great, and I love the brushed aluminum look!

Serenity

03-20-2022, 09:32 PM

OK, we finished the rear brake lines (running them from the master cylinder, through the footbox, along the chassis, and up to the drivers side to the brakes. It didn't look like it would be that hard, but it took me considerable time and effort to run the brake lines between the rear brakes. Overall it looks pretty good! Yes, I used Dot 3 Brake Fluid to lube all fittings before assembly. I'm going to hold off on adding brake fluid or bleeding the brakes until I get the power steering (I may need to make some adjustments once that is installed), and until I get the rear 400lb springs (back-ordered). You can see my first attempt mock-up followed by the actual lines that I used in some of the pictures. Reagan reminded me that the brass fitting needs to come AFTER the bends....oops...maybe I was working too late into the night for that one.

Erica and Kadence marked the hole cutout for the Breeze Cockpit Storage Cubby (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/cockpit-storage-cubby-kit-for-mk4-roadster/), and then Carter cut it out. Reagan helped the whole time, too, and then Carter and Kadence deburred the edges so they weren't as sharp. Since we had everything out, we went ahead and widened the hole in the floor of the trunk to make the fuel pump more accessible. I wanted this to be just big enough to easily change out the fuel pump if needed. The fuel filter will be mounted under the car, so the cutout didn't need to be much larger. We'll fab up a cover for it and rivnut this down so it will be easily accessible.

The older 4 kids tested for their Green Belt (3 1/2 hour test) in karate and passed, so I killed some time working working on the radiator while they were testing. By the time they got back, they were pretty exhausted, and the radiator took a LOT of time, so I just kept on going. I used the following Breeze Products:

Radiator Fan Shroud:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/radiator-fan-shroud/

Heavy Duty Hinged Shroud Mounting Kit:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/heavy-duty-hinged-radiator-shroud-mounting-kit

Radiator Support Kit:
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/lower-radiator-support-kit

The materials in the kit probably would have been fine, but these items have a lot of great reviews and there are quite a few benefits to doing these upgrades. Some builders have experienced the radiator mounts breaking after several thousand miles (top), and the Breeze kit eliminates this issue. The radiator is also supposed to be installed at 52 degrees, and it is exactly 52 degrees. Erica Eastman helped me with this, too! I felt like I kept putting everything together and then taking it apart again, but it's finished!.

Part of installing the radiator involved cutting the factory five mounts from the chassis as the Breeze Automotive kit doesn't use them (and they would have been in the way). That was a lot of work removing those mounts, and then cleaning it up and painting it. Overall, I'm happy with how this turned out. I think it looks great! We used the grinder until late at night, and then used the hacksaw to clean it up a bit. I really do have some of the best neighbors and they've been supportive of this project, too!

The Power Steering Rack is on it's way, so next weekend we'll probably get that tackled and start working on the fuel tank. I mocked up the fuel tank, but haven't started putting that together yet.

Another good weekend!

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Fman

03-21-2022, 12:52 AM

Looking good, really cool to see all your kids helping you what a great experience for them.

If you want a little more stopping power with Mustang brakes plus add a little bling behind the wheel I have been really happy with the PowerStop kit. Simple to install and they claim it increases braking by 20%. Just something to consider or you can always add them later down the road.

Front:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-K1301-26

Rear:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-AR-85160XPR

Rear PS pads:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-Z26-347

Serenity

03-22-2022, 04:59 PM

Hi Fman
I'm glad you shared this! I'm not going to do this yet, but I saved this for reference because I may very well do this down the road. I love it when people share actual links to products so it is easy for me to reference. I really appreciate this.

John Mark

Serenity

03-27-2022, 09:56 PM

The power steering rack arrived and I mistakenly thought this would be one of the easier parts of the build, but I may have been mistaken - then again, maybe not. The bushings included with the power steering rack need to be removed and I opted not use the ones from FF5 and to instead use the solid offset Aluminum bushings from Breeze. In looking at the picture of the bushings, the ones on the left are included with the power steering unit, and ones in the middle are provided by FF5, and the ones on the right are from Breeze. The offset bushings lower the rack further reducing any bump steer and improve the alignment of the rack with respect to the front geometry. To start, the Factory Five supplied bolts wouldn't go through the Breeze bushings and the power steering mounts were misaligned on the vehicle. The bolts had an anti-corrosive coating, and once this was sanded off, they fit through the Breeze Bushings. It wasn't quite that simple, but we managed. After spending considerable effort trying to use the mounts as-is, I finally broke out the drill and widened the opening to allow the bolt to slide through. Since the Breeze bushings lower the power steering rack maybe 3/4", this inadvertently caused the boots to come into contact with the bracket (see pictures). It seems most builders don't need to grind down the brackets, but I did since I didn't want the boots rubbings or coming in contact with the bracket. All good now! Oh, remember that radiator I installed the previous weekend - well pulled it off for this project and then put it back on. The end result being that I'm finally very happy with the install of the power steering assembly.

The brake/ clutch reservoir had subtle movement when mounted with 5 rivets, so I ran 2 stainless steel bolts through the mounting plate, and it is now solid. I also trimmed the hoses slightly for a better fit. There was a concern that the subtle movement of the triple reservoir + the engine vibration might cause the fluid to become frothy/ agitated and create problems, hence it was decided to make it more solid.

We hadn't "officially" mounted the front drivers side footbox panel, but it was apparent that I probably should have done this already. Having disassembled the triple reservoir, this seemed like a good time. Took as much apart as possible, and then siliconed and riveted this in place. Was harder than it looks, but glad this is done.

Having installed the Power Steering, it seemed prudent to now install the Steering Shaft. Having mocked it up, we decided to remove 1/4" of the lower steering shaft for a better fit. The kids put the steering shaft brackets on backwards....but it's not entirely their fault. In one of the pictures in the manual, I believe they showed it installed backwards, too. Fixed this and everything else was pretty self explanatory. The steering is completely solid and feels good.
I thought I had received the steering tie rod ends, but searched all boxes 3x, and they weren't there. Ugh.... It's ok, EdwardB (a prominent builder) used MOOG Tie Rod Ends on his last few builds and has been very happy with them. So, I bought the same MOOG ES2150RL Tie Rod Ends (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59VR6). When I went to install them, I realized I also didn't have the 9/16 jam nut that was probably included with the Tie Rod ends that I didn't get. Unfortunately, Home Depot, Lowes, and Autozone don't stock anything over 1/2". One the other hand, Home Depot DOES sell specialized and a complete list of hardware on their website in eaches and they ship it directly to your house free freight. So I bought 9/16 nuts for $2.00 + Free Freight. I just need to wait 2 weeks to receive them - that's fine. I'm not in a hurry.
Lastly, we decided to drill/ cleco the large Aluminum Panel that sits behind the driver/ passenger area. Reagan and Kadence were my big helpers this weekend.

In anticipation of installing the fuel tank next weekend, I decided to swap out the 7/16" Coupling Nuts that I had previously picked up at Home Depot which I will be using for the Quick Jacks. I took a picture to show you what I had bought from Home Depot vs. what I picked up from McMasters. The smaller/ stainless steel ones are from McMaster and they fit much better and I also picked up Stainless Steel bolts/ hardware, too! I needed to get this taken care of before I could install the fuel tank.

Loving spending time with the kids working on this! They're learning all sorts of fun skills (and problem solving) as well as using their hands to build/ make things. Also, stainless steel is difficult to cut/ drill/ saw through. I've learned some techniques, but it is just a hard metal.

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Serenity

04-03-2022, 09:58 PM

Mounted a few more aluminum panels in the driver/ passenger area, and then focused on the aluminum in the rear of the car (sides/ trunk). I wanted to drill/ clean up these panels before I mount the fuel tank to minimize any metal shavings. I've covered up all important parts (IRS components) with towels before I started drilling in the rear of the car. I used rivnuts for the first time to create an access panel for the fuel sending unit, and they are really cool! How have I gone this long without using rivnuts before? We also drilled and cleco'd the Breeze Cockpit Storage Cubby Kit (https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/cockpit-storage-cubby-kit-for-mk4-roadster/). I'm really glad we did this mod....it will come in handy with just everyday use of the car.

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Ted G

04-03-2022, 11:05 PM

Enjoying watching your progress! I just started mine this weekend. I will surely post some pics with my kids too!

Serenity

04-04-2022, 08:00 PM

Enjoying watching your progress! I just started mine this weekend. I will surely post some pics with my kids too!

Hi Ted - That's great! I'm going to look for your build thread and I'd like to follow your build, too! That's great you'll be involving your kids, as well! We have 6 kids and 5 of them are pretty excited about this project and 1 of them wasn't a fan, but he's slowly come around and has spent some time in the garage with me, and that's been fun. He prefers the look/ luxuries of more modern vehicles, but once he's ridden in it with me, I know he'll love it!

Ted G

04-05-2022, 01:29 AM

I'm in Temecula about 4 times a year as my company is headquartered there (QuietCool). Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Ted

ggunter

04-05-2022, 08:49 AM

Serenity

04-05-2022, 11:06 AM

I'm in Temecula about 4 times a year as my company is headquartered there (QuietCool). Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Ted

That's awesome! I'm a big fan of QuietCool! We installed the QC-5400 Classic Whole House Fan almost 2 years ago now and it's fantastic in the Summer. My parents and uncle also installed QuietCool fans. Couldn't be any happier with their products! If you ever want to stop by, let me know. We are right across the street from French Valley Airport and there is another local builder down the street that's been a big help to me.

Serenity

04-05-2022, 11:15 AM

You better be careful, you might go to work one day and come home to find your kids riding around the neighborhood in you Cobra. You are making fantastic progress. I only wish my dad would have been cool enough to do a project like this with me when I was a kid. With him it was ALWAYS, don't do that you'll hurt yourself. I'm glad I didn't listen to him that much. Don't get me wrong he was a good dad but really, really overprotective.

Thank you, sir! With 6 kids, it's a fine balance on being protective, but also letting them learn and experience the world in a semi-controlled environment. As a kid, I had a hairline fracture in my wrist from a biking incident, but most of my kids have all had broken bones from climbing, biking, and just playing hard. We've spent more time at the ER or Urgent Care than I'd like to admit, but they're all healthy and active. They recently had a karate tournament at Cal State Fullerton and they LOVE working on the car. I have no doubt my kids are going to want to drive this, even just down the street. I've always wanted to go to the Bonneville Salt Flats, and hopefully we'll make it there and I can let the older ones drive it (once finished).

nucjd19

04-05-2022, 08:28 PM

What an awesome family experience. My girls enjoyed the post work results more than the middle of the build work. Now they just love cruising around in it. While I did not have the input that you have had they feel like they are a part of it and have a connection. That is a really special aspect of doing something like this. I have really enjoyed catching up on your build. Great job!

Serenity

04-17-2022, 10:30 PM

OK, I was traveling for work but I am now back and still progressing....

We installed the the fuel sending unit and mocked up the fuel tank. Reagan and Cater were my big helpers. I decided to upgrade the gasket for the fuel fill tube to the OEM from Ford. The one from Factory Five would probably have been fine, but I've read some posts where this has leaked, so I decided to purchase this from Ford to minimalize any issues down the road. It looks very similar to the one provided by Factory Five, but the one from Ford is slightly more robust. We also installed the Breeze Big Bore Vent Check Valve, too! I meant to take a picture comparing both check valves, but the Breeze is noticeably larger. This allows the tank to be filled faster by allowing displaced air to escape without backing up the filler neck.
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/big-bore-vent-check-valve-kit

Gas Pedal.... I wasn't thrilled with the pedal provided by Factory Five, and Russ Thompson makes an upgraded all aluminum gas pedal. Don't get me wrong, the pedal provided would have worked just fine, but I needed to order the upgraded Turns Signal System from Russ anyways, so it was easy to just add the gas pedal to this order. Russ Thompson has designed a Turn Signal System which allows these vehicles to have a "normal" blinker switch (mounted to the steering column) as opposed to a button to activate the blinkers on the dash. Russ does a great job and we did get this installed...although I'll have to remove it to install the dash once it arrives (still back-ordered). I did need to grind down a weld to make it fit. There is no question that the tolerances are very TIGHT, but we did manage to get this mounted/ installed. While it is not in the manual, if you decided to use the pedal provided in the kit, you should use medium strength loctite on the bolt that secures the 2 pieces together. http://www.norcal-cobras.com/store/russ_garage/mk3/mk3tss.html

Fuse Box. The Fuse Box is designed to be held into place with a few self-tapping screws, which again, is probably just fine. This is not a structural component and it has little weight, but yeah, I have to do everything overkill. In reading different builds, I didn't see anyone else that needed to trim the fuse box mounting plate, but once I started asking around, it was apparent that others needed to trim it, too. Well, I didn't need too, I suppose. A bolt from the pedal box bracket is in the way, but you could drill a hole in the fuse box mounting plate and use the existing bolt from the pedal box to hold that corner. I slept on it, but decided to trim around the bolt/ washer, and to use 6 rivnuts/ bolts to hold the fuse box. I wanted it to be semi-easily removable if needed, and this is perfect. I'm happy with this install.

Lastly, Carter and I applied FatMat sound/ heat (mostly sound) insulation to the firewall and then we ran a little bit of electrical through the firewall and then we installed a ground for the fuse box.

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Serenity

04-30-2022, 09:26 PM

While it doesn't look like I accomplished much since my last update, it's the little stuff that counts, right?

Tie Rod Ends installed although I haven't torqued them down yet or put in the cotter pin. Not ready to torque them down just yet.

Sniper Fuel Pump (12-345) installed. This is what Mike Forte suggested and it is capable of 340 LPH (which is up to 700HP EFI). https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/efi_in-tank_pumps/parts/12-345

Does anyone know if I can cut the fuel pump electrical end from the Ron Francis Wire Harness and wire the Black/ Red wires directly to the Sniper Fuel Pump (12-345)?
If you have any suggestions on this, please let me know. I'm thinking about putting a Weatherpack end on the Sniper Fuel Pump & Ron Francis Wiring Harness so I can plug it in/ remove if needed.

Emergency Brake hooked up and functional! This took considerable more time than it looks, but overall I'm very happy with this. It works perfectly and 1-2 clicks pulling up and it locks the read end. Very happy with this mod, but it did take quite awhile to get this 100%.

Put the little plastic plugs in-place near the fuel tank (see picture). I forgot to put these in and dropped the fuel tank to get these in.

Drained and re-filled the rear differential. The good news is that it was FULL of new fluid + additive fresh from Ford, BUT, it did have quite a bit of debris (mostly silicone from the rear differential gasket. I'll post a shot video if I can showing the debris, but glad I drained this and am starting fresh!

Adjusted rear upper control arm. I was reading up on EdwardB's build and he said to have equal thread showing on the rear upper control arm. I don't entirely understand why, but I adjusted this on both sides. Took the bolts out and then retorqued them down. Re-checked rear alignment (made some adjustments) and it looks good now.

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edwardb

05-01-2022, 05:36 AM

Does anyone know if I can cut the fuel pump electrical end from the Ron Francis Wire Harness and wire the Black/ Red wires directly to the Sniper Fuel Pump (12-345)?
If you have any suggestions on this, please let me know. I'm thinking about putting a Weatherpack end on the Sniper Fuel Pump & Ron Francis Wiring Harness so I can plug it in/ remove if needed.

With that pump, you’ll want to cut off the Ford style connector on the RF harness. But personally I wouldn’t hard wire it. Obviously would mean cutting the wires if service or replacement required. A Weatherpack might work. But the standard version is only rated for 20 amps max. So probably a little light for a fuel pump. Saying that without knowing first hand what the draw is for that particular pump. I’d pick a connector set with a higher current rating. Lots of choices.

Adjusted rear upper control arm. I was reading up on EdwardB's build and he said to have equal thread showing on the rear upper control arm. I don't entirely understand why, but I adjusted this on both sides. Took the bolts out and then retorqued them down. Re-checked rear alignment (made some adjustments) and it looks good now.

The reason to center those adjusters is so that you get maximum adjustment available each direction. You have a RH thread and LH thread on the adjuster. When the jam nut is loosened, you can turn the adjuster in or out. If you didn’t have equal threads from the start, you would limit how much it could be adjusted in one of the directions. My experience is that connection doesn't need a lot of range to get the right alignment spec. But still would ruin your day if you ran out of adjustment and had to take it all apart to correct.

JeffP

05-01-2022, 06:18 AM

edwardb

05-01-2022, 08:36 AM

I have the same pump from mike and did exactly this.. installed a weatherpack. the website has conflicting data - 10amp and 16amp @60psi. either way should be fine and given the gauge of wire on the pigtail it ships with is pretty small it must not be a huge draw.

That's information I didn't check for and no experience with that pump. Should be fine with a Weatherpack. Unlike my previous response. Interesting they're able to get that much fuel to flow at those currents. Pretty efficient.

Serenity

05-01-2022, 06:54 PM

With that pump, you’ll want to cut off the Ford style connector on the RF harness. But personally I wouldn’t hard wire it. Obviously would mean cutting the wires if service or replacement required. A Weatherpack might work. But the standard version is only rated for 20 amps max. So probably a little light for a fuel pump. Saying that without knowing first hand what the draw is for that particular pump. I’d pick a connector set with a higher current rating. Lots of choices.

The reason to center those adjusters is so that you get maximum adjustment available each direction. You have a RH thread and LH thread on the adjuster. When the jam nut is loosened, you can turn the adjuster in or out. If you didn’t have equal threads from the start, you would limit how much it could be adjusted in one of the directions. My experience is that connection doesn't need a lot of range to get the right alignment spec. But still would ruin your day if you ran out of adjustment and had to take it all apart to correct.

Makes perfect sense! Thank you! I'm glad I went back and corrected the adjustment on the rear upper control arms. I reference your build all the time - so thank you! Yes, I'm not going to hard wire the fuel pump. I'm most likely going to use a WeatherPack here. The wiring gauge is identical to the Ron Francis Wiring Harness. I'm going to check the current rating for the pump as well as the WeatherPack. Thank you, again!

Serenity

05-01-2022, 06:56 PM

I have the same pump from mike and did exactly this.. installed a weatherpack. the website has conflicting data - 10amp and 16amp @60psi. either way should be fine and given the gauge of wire on the pigtail it ships with is pretty small it must not be a huge draw.

Perfect! This is exactly what I'm going to do. I was thinking the same. I also saw conflicting information, but yes, the pigtail is the same gauge as Ron Francis wiring harness so I think a WeatherPack would be fine. I'm feeling more confident about this now.

Serenity

05-08-2022, 07:28 PM

Installed the Fuel Inertia Switch. This called for self-tapping screws, but we have rivnuts and I'm not about to pass up an opportunity to use them.
Started wiring up the dash. I'm not entirely happy with how it's all wired up - it's just messy. I'm probably going to buy a WeatherPack set to clean this up. For now, it's coming along fine.
Installed the horn. You can see I used Rivnuts for this, too! Overall I'm pretty happy with how this wired up. I spent way too much time on this part, but it looks good. You'll notice I used 2 Rivnuts side by side to keep the horns in position (so they don't shift).

I purchased the Breeze Installation Kit for the Classic Seats and so far I'm very happy with this decision, too! We mounted the bases to the seats, but we'll permanently mount it in the car later. I've also ordered the Cobra Seat Heaters from Mike Forte, and we'll get those installed once they arrive. The Breeze installation kit slightly reclines the seats and makes them adjustable (move the chair forward if needed depending on the driver). Since I'm 6' 1", I think the Breeze kit will make the vehicle just a bit more comfortable.
https://www.breezeautomotive.com/shop/installation-kit-for-new-steel-frame-classic-seats/
https://fortesparts.com/product/cobra-seat-heaters-waterproof-regular

Installed the drive shaft adapter. Factory Five includes hex bolts to install the drive shaft adapter (with red Loctite), but I opted to purchase 12 point bolts from Mike Forte, too! It is easier to torque 12 point bolts vs. hex, and if I ever needed to remove these, I'll be glad I used the 12 point bolts. Factory Five says to torque these down to 41 ft lbs., but Mike Forte suggested 60-64 ft lbs, so we torqued them to 62 (with red Loctite). I included a picture of this if anyone wants to see it. I used the emergency brake to hold the drive shaft adapter in place while I torqued it down, and it didn't budge. I'm feeling more confident in my emergency brake, too!

Kadence Eastman started the sound proofing in the trunk area. Love having my kids helping me with this! Making so many memories and everyone is pitching in.
Installed the rear wiring harness and secured it in place. Hopefully I won't regret this later. I had a difficult time seeing how other people ran/ secured the rear harness. I played with it - slept on it - made some adjustments - and riveted it in place today. Once this is done, I think I can start permanently riveting the aluminum panels in the trunk/ rear of the car.

Semi-prepared the Transmission Mount. I purchased the spacers from Mike Forte for this, too. Does it look like I did this right? I'm sure it will be more clear once the engine/ transmission arrive, but I was just trying to prepare for the upcoming installation.

Likewise, if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!

John Mark

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Serenity

05-15-2022, 09:46 PM

I've also created a private/ closed Facebook group documenting this build and it has a lot more pictures and additional information. It is a small group that includes a few other builders that I've met along the way, too! If anyone is interested, in following on Facebook, you can join here: https://fb.me/g/p_fuEJVzTR3Tq9RiAc/02htwdmG (link is only good for 48 hours, but if you PM me I'll resend it to you). I'm planning to keep this updated, too!
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All of the kids helped with various parts this weekend but Reagan has been spending a lot of time in the garage with me and that's been really fun! Love spending time with her.

Glove Box:
We installed the Glove Box. The Glove Box includes an aluminum plate that sandwiches the door hinges against the cover. We used an epoxy glue to hold this together. To ensure correct alignment, we clamped a piece of wood against the other side of the dash & Glove Box door to make sure it is flush with the dash once glued. Reagan ran over to Lowes with me to pick up the glue & clamps for this. I did have clamps, but these ones are better than what I had and I’m sure I'll use them again before this project is finished. The actual alignment of the hinges was off and no matter how I tried to bend things, it didn't work. I ended up using 4 washers on one side to improve alignment, and then I added one more support screw in the middle. Perfect!

Engine Lift -
One of my neighbors had an engine lift that he had purchased to unload a cast iron table saw from his truck a few years ago and brought it over for me to use. It had some surface rust from sitting on the side of his house for the last few years, but once cleaned up it works great!

Seat Heaters -
I opted not to install AC/ Heat, BUT I did decide to install seat heaters for those cool nights in Southern California 😊. The installation was pretty straightforward and they came together pretty easily. I’ve decided that I’m going to mount the controls on the side of the Breeze seat mount. Some people mount the controls on the side of the transmission tunnel or the top, but this involves additional wiring inside the transmission tunnel, and I’d prefer to have the controls concealed. We used 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive to re-attach the seat base/ foam back together and this worked great!

Trailer Converter –
Since the rear lights are LED, and require 4 wires instead of 5 that are in the harness, we need to splice in a 5 wire to 4 wire trailer light converter to make them work properly (correct brake logic). The manual calls for splicing this in behind the dash, but some people splice it in near the rear of the harness by the fuel tank. This can occasionally fail, and if it is behind the dash, it will be difficult to replace without removing the fiberglass body. After taking apart the rear harness, I ultimately decided to splice this in near the driver’s side tire tucked up against the frame. This provided me an opportunity to use a 5-5 Weatherpack for one side and a 4-4 Weatherpack for the other side. Perfect – now it can be easily replaced if needed. Why did I take apart the rear harness you might ask? Well, in one of the pictures of wires, you’ll see 3 pink wires, and I was looking for 2. 2 of those wires for the rear lights and 1 of them is the power for my fuel pump. After identifying which one was for the fuel pump, I put everything back together and I think it came out pretty well!

Fuel Pump –
Installed a Weatherpack on the fuel pump connection.

Rear Brakes –
When I had assembled the rear brakes, I had the sliding clips (for the pads) but didn’t see where they went, so I set them aside, knowing I would need to revisit this later. In reading other build threads, I saw someone else mention this and then I knew exactly where they went. They are now installed, but that was a real bother….super tight tolerance, but Kadence Eastman helped me with this!

Seats & Breeze Mounts –
Painted up the Breeze Seat Brackets as they are made of steel, and I would like to avoid rust if possible. Lowe's is running low on spray paint paint and didn't have ANY Rustoleum Flat Black, so we bought a hammered spray paint (no one will see these anyways, and it actually looks good). The Breeze seat mounts include a piece of wood that is screwed under the seat pad to provide additional support for longer drives. This is an MDF wood, and it can break if you press down on the end of it too hard. I’ve ordered an aluminum plate (1/8”) which I secure over the wood for added reinforcement (or might replace the wood with the aluminum plate, we'll see). Rather than using self-tapping screws for installing the wood, I decided to use rivets. Since the electrical for the seat heaters will be under this, I’d like to make this accessible for service later. We counter sunk the drill holes in the MDF so it will late flat over the rivnuts and then we sealed the MDF with a waterproof sealant.

Fuel Filter –
I’ve spent the last few weeks looking at this and really struggled with placement. I wanted to make this accessible to service later, but also secure. I didn’t like where the manual suggested to mount this, and unfortunately my rear brake lines would have been ever slightly in the way. I attached this to the frame near the fuel pump using 2 rivnuts for added security with 2 button head hex bolts. This is now easy to remove/ service using access for the fuel pump.

Rear Shocks -
I had been waiting since November for Rear Shocks. They had always been out of stock when I inquired, but I finally received them. It turns out the shipping department at Factory Five lost my paperwork and the Sales Department needed to re-print the pick ticket and ask the shipping team to send those out. We now have a roller - if I had my wheels 😎. Hopefully we'll get the wheels in June.

Family visiting -
My in-laws are visiting, so took some time off the build and replaced the thermostat on their truck. They are visiting from Tennessee and unfortunately their truck over-heated on their drive to see us. Since this is the original thermostat and the truck has 200k miles, this seemed the most likely. About 1 year ago, their mechanic suggested installing a “stop leak” additive since they seemed to be losing coolant. Apparently, this resolved the coolant leak, but I think this may have created a new issue as the thermostat and inside of the engine was coated with this gelatinous substance which I’m assuming was the “stop leak” additive. It also made it difficult to drain the coolant from the radiator. We did test the old thermostat and unfortunately it opened right at 180F. Hoping that installing a new thermostat (all clean) will resolve the issue.

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Serenity

05-23-2022, 12:07 AM

This was another working weekend, so we only had limited time to work on the car, but we made some progress!
---
As noted in my previous post, I have a closed/ private facebook page which includes a lot more images if anyone wants to follow along there, too! This is limited to 10 pictures, which is generally ok, but I end up taking quite a few pictures so I can reference them later. Here is the link if you'd like to follow-along on Facebook. It is only valid for 48 hours, but you can PM me and I can send it to you. https://fb.me/g/p_sQot6M4iLdfvsiFd/Q8lgfbEr
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Aluminum Panels:
Installed and riveted the rear panel, trunk drop box, inside trunk panels, and outside rear trunk panels.

Secured Rear Right/ Left Electrical:
We riveted the electrical to the chassis.

Electrical for Seat Heaters:
I ran 2 hot wires and 2 ground wires from the firewall in the existing rear wire harness to the rear of the seat boxes. The wire harness/ fusebox has extra hot/ ground wires that I wasn't planning on using. Example, since I'm not installing a heater, I'm going to use the hot lead for this which has a 20amp fuse for the seat heaters. According to the instructions, the seat heaters each require a maximum of 10 amps. People smarter than me have tested the amp draw with both seat heaters on HIGH, and indicate that the combined draw is 15 amps, so we'll be just fine. The seat heaters include their own 10amp fuses that I could wire in-line, but I'm opting to NOT use them since this will have a 20amp fuse for BOTH seat heaters. If anyone feels differently, about this please let me know. I attached pictures so you could see how I ran the electrical for this.

Rear Springs:
Rear Springs installed. This week Reagan helped me torque them down to specs and mark the bolts indicating they have been properly torqued. We now officially have a roller - just no wheels yet. Hopefully we'll get these in June.

Seats:
As mentioned in one of my earlier posts, one of the weak spots with the Breeze Installation Kit for the Classic Seats is the included MDF panels. The MDF panels are designed to provide additional support to the seats. I had planned to use the aluminum to reinforce the MDF, but decided to just replace the MDF with the 1/8" aluminum panels. They are plenty strong! We only needed to trim them width wise as the length was perfect! I also used stainless steel button head screws and stainless steel rivnuts to secure the aluminum panels to the frame of the chair. I also used split wire loom and a grommet to pull the electrical through the aluminum panel. Lastly, we installed the switch for the seat heaters into the frame of the Breeze Seat Brackets. I might come to regret this later, but we'll see. I don't see any reason this won't work. We did need to trim one of the securing bolts that interfered with our switch location, but Carter took care of this. Kadence, Reagan, and Carter all helped get the seats ready. Seats are DONE and ready to install. I'll need to fit the body before we find the permanent spot for the seats, but for now they're OK. An added benefit is that all electrical is easily accessibly from right under the Breeze Mount.

Supplies used:
12"x18"x1/8" Aluminum Panels for the seats:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GCRN3Z6
1/4-20 x 3/4" Button Head Screws:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TJN6L2J/
1/4-20 Rivnuts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077GQLQZ8/

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Serenity

05-29-2022, 10:45 PM

I also have a private/ closed Facebook Group documenting this build with a group of other builders, too! I generally include more images/ photos in the Facebook Group. Anyone is welcome to follow along on FB (https://fb.me/g/p_yxpkejsurnXBPeW2/3JHhi07W) or here. I always welcome any critical feedback.
---
Here is an update for this past week -

Dash Electrical -
Electrical doesn't come naturally to me, so I spent a few nights reading the wiring diagrams and taking the wire harness apart to make sense of it. Since I bought a pretty large Weatherpack set, we used Weatherpacks for all connections. In order to make the flashers work properly, I needed 2 diodes, so I put those together and wired everything up. I bought the IDIDIT Headlight Dimmer Module so I could wire up the "flash to pass" feature on the Russ Thompson Turn Signal. It's called flash to pass, but it really just switches between hi-beams & low-beams. Ron Francis makes something similar (https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/142) called the RP-3. The different between the RP-3 and the IDIDIT, is that the IDIDIT requires it's own power supply whereas the RP-3 uses the power form the headlight switch. This means that if I wanted to use the "flash to pass" feature, then I would need to turn the headlights on first before my hi-beams would activate. With the IDIDIT, I can activate my hi-beams anytime the ignition switch is on, which is a nice feature. Was this necessary? No, of course not, but then again, neither is the car. If I'm building a vehicle with the feature, I'd like it to work.

After we wired up the blinkers (left/ right/ front/ rear), brake lights, running lights, headlights (low beam/ high beam), and hazard lights, we decided to test everything before moving forward. The front wiring harness has a battery feed (to the fuse box) and an ignition switch/ accessory lead and BOTH are wired to the starter along with the power from the battery. Since I don't have the engine/ starter yet (coming soon), I hooked up these 2 leads directly to a battery that I have laying around. I also have a 15amp fuse wired inline in case I run into trouble. I also wired up my battery cut-off switch so I could kill the power if I ran into trouble. I threw the switch, and no smoke or blown fuses. I then turned the ignition switch. EVERYTHING WORKS - PERFECTLY! Almost couldn't believe it. This was a real confidence booster and a landmark objective for me. I made a short video, but I neglected to show the brake lights + blinker switch working at the same time, but we tested thoroughly and everything works! My wiring isn't as neat/ organized as some other builders, but I'm OK with this. My Weatherpacks are solid. I did clean things up and used split loom wire tubing to tidy things up. I included pictures of the electrical diagrams that were most helpful for me.

I also added a ground bus bar which is visible in one of the pictures beneath the IDIDIT box. This just makes it easier for me to add another ground box for the wire harness, accessories, etc....

Aluminum Panels -
With the dash electrical now working, we can mount the rear aluminum panels and start applying sound/ heat resistance material to the panels. We also put in the little panel that goes around the fuel tank strap.

Vinagaroon -
Vinagaroon is just steel wool + vinegar. This creates a chemical reaction with leather turning it black, but it isn't a dye so the black can't rub off. I've seen a number of other builders doing this, so we're going to do it, too! I attached a picture of a mason jar beginning to ripen ��. You need to put a hole in the lid to let the hydrogen gas bleed off. The gas bubbles are quite explosive - don't ask how we know...lol... Once you dip your leather into the Vinagaroon, it needs to be neutralized in a baking soda solution, too. My solution wasn't quite ripe enough, so we'll do this next week. We'll be using this on the door check straps. Here are the instructions for this: https://www.instructables.com/Vinegaroon-Black-Leather-Dye/

I believe we've also settled on the final color, too! More information coming on this, but it'll be awhile before we move to painting.

Here is a video showing the blinkers, headlights, running lights, flash to pass, etc...:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RRpuFrSgvjSUY9Ng6

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Fman

05-30-2022, 09:09 AM

Serenity

05-31-2022, 10:23 AM

Nice work! While you have good access to electrical I would consider adding a buzzer/indicator lights to let you know your turn signal is on. The FFR indicator lights in the speedo are almost impossible to see in daylight. Watson street works sells a nice beeper that is not over annoying loud but lets you know your signal is turned on and also have really nice LED indicator lights. The clock IMO is also useless, it never really kept the time correctly. I ended up going with oil temp gauge from Speedhut but there are also other gauges you could install that would be helpful to monitor engine. Just something to consider, really enjoying watching your progress and very cool your kids are part of the build.:cool:

https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/small-chrome-low-profile-led-indicators/

https://watsons-streetworks.com/product/reminder-buzzer/

Thank you! I'm giving this some thought. I really like the dash as clean as it is. If I lived in any state other than California, I'd likely add the buzzer/ indicator lights, but in California we don't use blinkers. It's really a safety issue. As soon as you turn your blinker on, any vehicles next to you slam the gas to close the gap. So, why did I install the Russ Thompson blinker switch you might ask? Well, I do like everything to be functional and clean. The Russ Thompson switch certainly makes the vehicle more usable and there are times I might use a blinker, which is why I'm rethinking this..... I really appreciate you including the links. Thank you!

Fman

05-31-2022, 11:07 PM

Thank you! I'm giving this some thought. I really like the dash as clean as it is. If I lived in any state other than California, I'd likely add the buzzer/ indicator lights, but in California we don't use blinkers. It's really a safety issue. As soon as you turn your blinker on, any vehicles next to you slam the gas to close the gap. So, why did I install the Russ Thompson blinker switch you might ask? Well, I do like everything to be functional and clean. The Russ Thompson switch certainly makes the vehicle more usable and there are times I might use a blinker, which is why I'm rethinking this..... I really appreciate you including the links. Thank you!

I also live in CA (northern), not sure how much time you have in one.... I will say these cars are not like driving a regular vehicle. They are very low to the ground, people don't see you easily and turn signals IMO are a must use with them. These cars are not safe at all to begin with and using a turn signal gives you some more visibility. Leaving your signal ON and not realizing it is blinking is also another issue in itself. Just my .02 after 3500 miles of driving in one... but you gotta do you, so hopefully you find a solution that works for you. Those Watson components are all top of the line and very good quality.

Serenity

06-01-2022, 12:45 AM

I appreciate the feedback. Would you have a picture of your dash showing where you mounted them? You're probably right and this is a good time to do it. Thank you!

JeffP

06-01-2022, 06:03 AM

I appreciate the feedback. Would you have a picture of your dash showing where you mounted them? You're probably right and this is a good time to do it. Thank you!

Like you, I appreciate the clean look and how I went with my dash. I didn't add any additional indicators and opted for using the ones in the speedometer. I haven't had any issues seeing the indicator in full sun, granted its not exactly a strobe light to catch my attention. The RT turn signals are very effective at cancelling so I haven't found myself driving around with the blinker on yet.. only 115mi on it so far.

When I laid out my dash I went back and forth quite a bit on where to place the speed/tach. I really wanted what seems to be the more traditional with the tach on right like yours, but knowing it was a daily driver and not a track car - I knew I'd be much more interested in speed over RPM so I put my speedometer on the right. So far I don't regret that decision at all because its virtually impossible to see my tach on the left and thats with the FFR leather steering wheel. I'm not sure if the wood wheel would give more visibility but just wanted to pass that along for thought.

Serenity

06-01-2022, 10:03 AM

Thank you, Jeff! That makes me feel a little better. I'm also glad you suggested swapping the position of the speed/ tach. Someone else had suggested that to me awhile ago, but I was pre-occupied with something at the time so I'm glad you brought this up again. I'm planning to get this done soon. Yes, this will be a daily driver for me too, and not a track car.

Serenity

06-01-2022, 10:21 AM

I'm looking for some guidance on this, so I welcome all feedback.

I was test fitting the body over the weekend and ran into a couple issues -
1. If the outside edges of the dash are flush with the square tube, the top center of the dash barely makes contact with the square tube as seen in the picture below. 167511

2. In theory I could move the dash up slightly, but look how close the tachometer gauge is to the body here.
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3. With the body on, it 100% covers the top of the dash. You can see more pictures with measurements here:
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4. I did trim the back of the dash on the edges where it makes contact so it lays completely flat. The body pushes up 100% against the dash, and the original screw that attach the body to the chassis are mis-aligned by the same thickness as the dash.
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5. With the body on, the doors do open, but the clearance with the hinges is VERY close as noted below:
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All this to say, I'm assuming I should leave my dash in the current position and is it ok to secure this in place now?

Thank you!

Serenity

06-06-2022, 12:20 AM

Here is the progress since my update last week!

Vinagaroon
This stuff is really pretty cool! Vinegar and steel wool turns leather black within a few seconds, and the black spreads through the entire leather! Afterwards we soaked it in a baking soda/ water solution to neutralize the acid.
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Panels
Cater drilled and mounted the last little side panel on the far right of the firewall.
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Blinker Grounds
Since I do everything totally overkill, we redid front wiring harness ground and connected the blinker ground wires permanently. Not going to have any ground issues here. I already have another redundant ground for the wiring harness, too!
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Battery Cut-Off Switch
Mounted above the transmission tunnel. I debated whether to use this or not, but it will be a nice safety feature if ever needed. I did not use the cheaper one with a removable key. This is pretty hefty/ solid, and honestly I could make the red handle removable easy enough.
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Sound Deadening/ Heat Resistance
Installed most of the sound proofing/ heat resistance material. This is all Fatmat + Dynamat Aluminum Seam Tape.
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Body Mounting - We test fitted the body to take some measurements for the seats.. I'm using the classic seats, and as long as they are centered between the seatbelt mounts, they don't come close to interfering with the body/ doors, so no worry there. I wasn't able to make the body fit perfectly on the drivers side, so we'll be revisiting that soon. The dash has a little lip on it, maybe 1/4". It looks like if I sand that down, then the body can shift just a little and then everything will align. I'm still researching this, You can see how low my dash sits on the hoop, and if I leave my dash exactly as-is, the top is 100% covered up by the body. I'm going to cover the dash with blue masking tape and refit the body again, using a sharpie to mark on the blue masking tape so I can see much the body covers the dash.
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Replica Parts- http://www.replicaparts.com/
Michael Everson is a professional builder and also sells some components! He's created a lot of aftermarket add-ons that complement the vehicle. I specifically wanted to use his Under Dash Filler Panel, but since he's located on the East Coast, I might as well order anything else I might from him at the same time. Here are the components that I've ordered from him

Rear Quick Jack Plates
Under Dash Filler Panel
Front License Plate Bracket
Seat Belt Trim Plates
Roll Bar Trim Rings
Windshield Post Trim Plates
Russ Thompson Turn Signal Bezel
Weather Stripping Package

Engine - The engine & transmission arrive early next week, so stay tuned!

I have a lot of work events/ traveling coming up for most of June, so progress will be slowed... We'll I'm just hoping the kids don't finish this without me 😂. Love having them in the garage with me and this has been an incredible journey so far.