Sitton build thread

[sittonb]

Well it's here, showed up sooner then expected. Dropped of at 1:00PM, had it in the garage and due to space limits, spent the next couple hours getting the body off, onto the buck, the buck back in over the chassis...OOPS chassis to tall on the dolly. Remove dolly, place chassis on jack stands, re-work dolly (lowering about 7 inches) replace dolly, now everything fits..

Of course had to start inventory. Doing well until I got to the box of aluminum pieces....

Can someone help me out and tell me what these are? I have more open inventory items then I do pieces, so it got a bit challenging
158587


I'll post a complete "Kit setup" in a day or so....

Oh also, how does everyone determine what "Number" they are? All I can find is an order number. Is that something that FF5 should tell me?

As always TIA

[Todd Baumann]

From left to right.
Front of the drivers foot box around the 3/4" tubing that comes out on the right next to the pedal box.
End of the firewall all the way over on the end on the right. Small extension piece. Donor harness goes thru the hole.
This one is used to cover the hole on the front of the drivers foot box also if not using donor harness.
This one drops down over the tank strap mount exposed on the right side in the trunk.

HTH,
Todd

[edwardb]

Your chassis number is engraved on the 2" square tube just above where your left knee would be if sitting behind the steering wheel. Something like F5R100XXXXRD. From that, XXXX is your sequential chassis number. That's the one people always reference. It will also be on your Certificate of Origin when received.

[sittonb]

great, thank you both. Once again such a pleasure to be part of this community

[sittonb]

So kit arrived last Monday, inventory complete.. Here is my setup;

MkIV Complete Kit w/body cutouts
Powder coated frame
Solid Rear Axle
Power Steering
Blueprint 347 w/sniper
Hydraulic clutch
Windshield wipers
Glovebox dash
Vintage Gauges
17” Halibrands
Wilwood brakes
Chrome DS roll bar w/grommets
Assembled side louvers
Chrome side pipes
Trunk Strut kit

And these modifications
Breeze Front mounted battery box, radiator mounting, seat mounts, storage cubby
RT Drop Trunk, turn signal set
Dash switches etc
Boig Cool tubes
Tonneau cover

I'm gonna try something different with this thread. There are so many EXCELLENT threads out there, I really don't think I could add to anything. So I thought I'd center mine around little hick ups, gotchas, etc. Such as the previously mentioned body buck/dolly issue. I will post pictures every now and then, mostly for other sets of eyes to make sure I've got things correct.

So item 1... If you're going to use a body buck that rolls over the top of the chassis (for storing of course). There are some really good plans out there btw, just be sure the chassis will fit under the buck. You've only got 10-10.5 inches of clearance from the ground to the bottom of the main tubes, so your dolly needs to be no taller... Mine was, so it added some time to get everything put away.

Item 2... The body arrives with the doors, hood, and trunk taped shut. When it comes time to remove the doors, double check that the bolts haven't vibrated loose in shipping. My passenger door literally fell out of the car when I removed the tape and turned to grab a wrench. Luckily it hit me in the eg and I was able to catch it before it hit the floor. The DS bolts were loose but still in. BTW I was able to find the bolts in the car so nothing was lost.

Item 3... Number your inventory pages, they tend to get put here and there, and numbering helps ensure you don't misplace any or have one slide off the bench.

Build has started, nothing great, so no pics. Working F panels and will begin sheet metal removal today.

[sittonb]

Made progress, like many others the ball joints gave me fits, they would go in half way and stop, thought maybe I could dremel wire wheel the threads in the UCA to remove a bit of paint/finish. No joy. luckily this was on Saturday, and after searching the forums, ordered a set of Moog units from Amazon, and hoped they would fit. Arrived Sunday and went right in.

Did come up with a question, the 7.375 measurement from the pivot bolt to the zerk fitting on the balljoint. Is it from the center of the bolt to the center of zerk, or is it from the center of the bolt along the arm to a point what looks like 45 degrees from the zerk, like the diagram shows. Or should I just follow the recommended all the way in and the opposite are about 1/2 way in?

[Dan Marcantonio]

Sitton check your inbox

[Serenity]

Made progress, like many others the ball joints gave me fits, they would go in half way and stop, thought maybe I could dremel wire wheel the threads in the UCA to remove a bit of paint/finish. No joy. luckily this was on Saturday, and after searching the forums, ordered a set of Moog units from Amazon, and hoped they would fit. Arrived Sunday and went right in.

Did come up with a question, the 7.375 measurement from the pivot bolt to the zerk fitting on the balljoint. Is it from the center of the bolt to the center of zerk, or is it from the center of the bolt along the arm to a point what looks like 45 degrees from the zerk, like the diagram shows. Or should I just follow the recommended all the way in and the opposite are about 1/2 way in?

Can you share the Amazon link to the Moog parts?

[sittonb]

sure , here it is
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59YZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and if you're looking for a good rivet gun (manual), I ended up with this one today (after an older Stanley broke), it works very well, and it's easy....and pivots
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrow-1-Handed-Swivel-Riveter-Kit-RT187SHK/304679379

[sittonb]

158975
So here is the PS side, shock isn't tight as it'll have to come off for the LCA, and I need to mark the torqued bolts (they are) but how does it look? Believe I've got it all correct.

[sittonb]

So a quick question, hung the pedals today, along with the MC's... When the brake pedal is at rest, should it hit the cross bar?159082

[Todd Baumann]

Depending on how you set it up it can. Thread the rod into the clevis just a tad more and it will keep it from banging on the tubing then if it does now.
Just depends on how high up you prefer your pedals. Lots of adjustment.

[edwardb]

Just to reinforce what Todd said, adjust it away so it's not touching. Then where you want it. If touching, it's possible the Wilwood MC isn't being allowed to close all the way against its internal stop. Don't want that. Affects the operation.

[sittonb]

Thanks to Edwardb, I was able to adjust the brake pedal so I have about 3/8 inch or so of clearance. The manual doesn't really speak to this and I couldn't find any comments on other build threads, but again the forums come through. Was also able to finish the passenger side foot box and floor. Please forgive my pics, still learning159315.
I'm quickly finding two things... 1. Even though I'd read the manual 2-3 times, and reviewed 8-10 build threads, I wasn't quite ready for how long things take, especially the aluminum panels. Guess thats good, and I'm not in a hurry, but wow, it hardly looks like I've done anything. 2. Due to supply chain issues etc, I have just enough major components missing to not really be able to "compete" anything, so I am taking caution not to "lose my place".

[sittonb]

This showed up today, unannounced but a pleasant surprise anyway
159724

Need a sanity check. I don't have my brakes yet, any reason I can't mount the rear end, and after the brakes arrive, remove the cover, pull the pin etc and remove the axles?
From what I understand I can fill the rear end through a plug???

[edwardb]

This showed up today, unannounced but a pleasant surprise anyway
159724

Need a sanity check. I don't have my brakes yet, any reason I can't mount the rear end, and after the brakes arrive, remove the cover, pull the pin etc and remove the axles?
From what I understand I can fill the rear end through a plug???

No reason you couldn't install now IMO. Not sure what brakes you're using that require removing the axles to install. Wasn't the case for the Wilwood brakes I installed on mine. Obviously, if you do, you'll add the fluid after that and the cover is back on. The fill plug is on the front RH side. Look closely and you'll see it. Requires a hex tool to remove. Note that for Moser rear axles, a whole bunch of us have had trouble with them leaking at the back cover. The one in my truck build started dripping several weeks after I filled it. Contacted Moser and they sent a new gasket. But figured it would just be more of the same. I removed the gasket completely and used Permatex’s The Right Stuff gasket maker applied per their directions. No more leaks. There are other approaches as well. Just something to be aware of.

[sittonb]

I'm using the Wilwood brakes. Just viewed the FF5 build video and assumed it would be the same for the Wilwoods, but good to know. If I don't have to remove the axles for the Wilwoods, then I can fill from the back cover, and based upon your comment, I'll remove the gasket and use the Permatex gasket maker.

[egchewy79]

yup, my Moser 8.8 leaked with the supplied paper gasket too. I had to drain the fluid into a clean pan, reseal with permatex, and then refill the gear oil through the tiny fill hole using a turkey baster since the rear end had already been installed on the frame. that oil is as thick as honey and that takes a while.

[sittonb]

Productive day. Got the rear end hung without much effort. We used an ATV instead of a floor jack, which allowed a fair amount of "wiggling" without fear of it falling off. Also took the suggestion and removed the paper gasket and used permatex as mentioned above. Seems tight as can be. And yes my pan hard bar is on the POL list so..
159907

[egchewy79]

congrats. it took 3 of us at least a hour trying to the the bolt holes to line up for the rear control arms. starting to take shape!

[sittonb]

Odd or my imagination? After hanging the rear end, I realized that unlike what the manual said, it isn't resting on the pan hard mount, it's being fully supported by the shocks. I thought that's probably not the best, so I placed a floor jack under it to take some of the weight. I expected the shocks to compress a bit and to see the unit raise but the chassis to stay in place. The entire chassis rose, is that odd? seems the shocks should have moved, but then again, there is no weight on the chassis, no engine, no cockpit etc....

[sittonb]

Haven't got a lot done, but did manage to get the fuel tank in, mostly.... Still missing a few parts, but using Breeze Automotive fuel filter/regulator, which means only one fuel line running up front.
161225

And of course, way before planned, this showed up
161226

With 429 HP!!!
161227

[zee]

With 429 HP!!!
161227

I think it's 429 ft lbs of torque, 410HP.

[jiriza84641]

Build is looking good, keep it up!

[sittonb]

Wiring question, as I look at the wires and diagrams, oh I'm using the vintage GPS gauges. I think I can remove the sender unit harness and just run the wire set ups that come with the gauges, ie oil pressure, water temp.
The harness itself has leads for oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, 3 grounds, and two wires for electric choke (using a sniper) so seem like I can remove them.

Am I thinking correctly?

[sittonb]

POL is starting to come in, got the front brakes and LCA's. pretty straight forward until I tried to mount the calibers. Seems the hole for the bolt on the calibers was to small. The bolt fit the bracket but no way was it going through the caliber.. Email off to Wilwood, now just waiting.
163879

[Indy Shu]

I used the bolts that came with the Wilwood kit. Big bolts for the adapter bracket to spindle, and smaller bolts for bracket to the caliper.

[sittonb]

Well Thank you John, couldn't see the forest for the trees, had the brackets on backwards... And was so sure they were on correctly. Swapped them around and everything went on correctly!!!! Luckily I hadn't locktited everything...

[John Ibele]

Wiring question, as I look at the wires and diagrams, oh I'm using the vintage GPS gauges. I think I can remove the sender unit harness and just run the wire set ups that come with the gauges, ie oil pressure, water temp.
The harness itself has leads for oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, 3 grounds, and two wires for electric choke (using a sniper) so seem like I can remove them.

Am I thinking correctly?

Hey, I don't think you got an answer to this question. But yes, you have two paths to get from gauges to sensors, and a choice you have to make. I chose the path of connecting the gauges into the harness, and then clipping off the connector for the sensor and soldering it onto the sender harness on the other end of things in the engine compartment. Alternatively, you can use the wires that came with the gauge set - you just have a few more individual connectors in places that don't line up with the harness connections. Both approaches have been used often and with perfectly good results both ways, so pick the one that suits you better.

Before clipping wires out of the harness, though, do think about what you might want to save for the future. I dieted my harness, but with an eye on what fused power was available and still unused. You might think of things you want to add later, and its handy having a fused power source sitting right where you need it.