DLJ's build thread [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

driveslikejehu

11-17-2021, 12:02 PM

Greetings,
I bought grabera7's just started 818r, complete with donor parts, so now I guess I'm in the game...
The work he completed- mostly front and rear hub carriers, suspension arms and steering- are first rate. Since he's already stripped the donor, a 2006 STI, I get to do the fun part...

A recently retired engineer, and always car guy, I'm enjoying it already. Though figuring out what has to be modified, changed, or adapted since its an STI gets me head scratching occasionally.

I'm located in the western suburbs of Chicago. I really hope to connect with other 818 builders located within an hour or two; what's the best venue for that? The Regional Discussion forums seem pretty sparse.
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David Hodgkins

11-17-2021, 12:22 PM

That's a sweet kit!

Best of luck with the build. I upgraded your account to full rights so you can post pics, update your profile, etc.

Welcome to the forum!

:)

roadrashrob

11-17-2021, 12:51 PM

Welcome to the club!

blomb11

11-17-2021, 03:01 PM

Welcome to the madness! I started my kit recently so I am still early on in the process, but also am building an 818R in "Brandon's 818R Build." Lots of learning and head scratching.

Sgt.Gator

11-17-2021, 04:18 PM

Welcome to the forum. The first head scratcher is to figure out if you need to worry about the "broomstick test." If you are tall you won't pass the test at many tracks, and certainly won't in the organized racing bodies. If you won't pass now is the time to make the frame mods so you can pass. Which means either raising the rear roll bar or fabricating a full HALO cage. If you are shorter be glad!

driveslikejehu

11-17-2021, 05:32 PM

I didn't say but I don't plan on actual racing. I do track days- last year about 8; probably 12+ next year. Currently using a Porsche Cayman, Hopefully 2023 season will be with the 818. Still, the broom stick test is relevant. In August, saw a car doing a slow roll over at VIR. The driver- and his instructor- tried pretty hard to make it happen but, "there but for the grace of God go I." So need to be ready...

My plan is to visit folks, if possible, and check the forum and see what seats are popular. But yeah, I want to get seats fitted in to check this, and before setting up the shifter, steering column, etc.

Rob T

11-18-2021, 06:23 AM

Welcome aboard. It's nice to have another R that will be tracked. I used to live in the West Suburbs of Chicago as one of my 10 locations during my career:rolleyes: But now live in SC.

driveslikejehu

01-30-2022, 01:43 PM

This is my first build report, so be gentle...
As noted, I bought an already started kit. The previous builder had- very expertly- completed the 4 corners, the front firewall, and Wilwood pedal assembly.
It took a while to get a few supporting items completed before dropping in the "lump." Figuring things out like the STI axles, getting the frame modified for the 6spd, getting some aluminum and cut for a firewall. Anyway, got it in.
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While waiting for stuff, got a few other things done; rebuilt the brake calipers, a few engine items- timing belt, cyl 4 cooling kit, and started routing brake lines. Since I wanted to play with brake lines, I needed to locate the remote cylinders, which meant locating the windshield bases, which meant cutting both R and S bases for the R frame members. The best thing about that profanity fueled effort was the smell of cut fiberglass; forgot how much I like it...
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Up next: I'm not really doing much with the engine before getting it all together and determining where I want to go with it. BUT, a friend just had a nice little fire in his daily STI, when that rubber oil return hose behind the turbo burst and, yeah, you can imagine. So gonna replace that with a higher temp version.

blomb11

01-31-2022, 12:16 PM

Nice work and progress!

You are bringing up something I have not looked at yet running the S windshield on an R. Looks like I need to look into this and how you would fill the master cylinder with the S windshield surround installed. I am thinking you would have to cut in some access holes to allow for a funnel or something. Do you have a side view picture of the master cylinders under the windshield surround? I am going to start routing my brake lines are well in the next couple of weeks.

driveslikejehu

01-31-2022, 01:40 PM

My kit has the Wilwood pedal assembly which uses separate master cylinders and remote reservoirs. You can see the 2 bright chrome cans in the 3rd pic. I don't necessarily love these particular reservoirs, but in any case, remote units can be mounted away from the master cyl. Otherwise, yeah, I think you'll need to cut some access.

blomb11

01-31-2022, 04:12 PM

I am looking at getting a Tilton tri master cylinder rather than using the Wilwood chrome ones. I missed them in your pic, but it is nice to see what the windshield surround looks like on the R chassis. Getting thinking about how things will fit down the line.

driveslikejehu

02-21-2022, 03:59 PM

Got the first draft of the fuel hose system installed. I have a bunch of things still to figure out. I know I need a pressure regulator, but don't yet comprehend what exactly; a bypass type?, compensated? Where and how to connect? Do I need an aftermarket pump regulator?
I'll be digging into the Fuel System thread...
I enjoy messing with the AN hoses, gotta say. Takes me back to helicopter mechanic days.
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driveslikejehu

09-04-2022, 04:47 PM

Its been quite a while since I posted, but got a lot done before a summer break, and now I'm back at it...
Pretty happy with the wiring. I probably left more than is needed but wanted to get it started before cutting more. And it cranks!
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I decided as others have to leave the M/B fuse box forward as it many serves the lights, rad fan, etc. It meant adding a couple of hefty wires back to the alternator, but it allows spreading out the fuse boxes.
Also happy with the e-brake solution and the position relative to the ZDB shifter and cables.
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with the stock firewall in place
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Should be go-karting in the next day or so.
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A little concerned about adjusting the ZDM shifter/cables. For now its feels pretty crunchy

driveslikejehu

11-21-2022, 05:18 PM

I've been pretty pleased with the wiring layout I ended up with. I have the brown F/B fuse box and one relay bar inside and the black M/B fuse/relay box in the front area closer to what its connected to; headlights, fans, horn, etc.
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I reworked the console aluminum to fit the ZBD shifter layout and allow for some extra gauges. I made a little door to access the F/B.
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I was stoked to find this gauge; intake air temp measured at 2 places; I put before and after the IC. Should useful to check airflow tweaks. Is anybody else using this?
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I modified the passerger side "interior" firewall since I have a Boyd fuel tank. It allows mounting the passenger seat back further.
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I made a version of the bicycle lever reverse lockout. Probably will tweak this as it's over complicated.
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Hoping to kind of wrap up the cockpit soon and start trying to fit body panels.

driveslikejehu

01-07-2023, 08:58 AM

Positioning the seats and harness mounts before final cockpit sheet metal install. I lowered the driver's seat as much as possible and still have to scrunch a little to pass the broom stick test.
Trying to figure out the shoulder harness mounts. As others have noted, the seat belt bar in the R is higher than the harness manufacturers recommend. The belts should go straight back to slightly down, not up.
Didn't know this would be an issue when looking at seats, but the shoulder belt opening might interfere a little. Nothing for it now.
Belt going up to the R bar
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Belt going to ?
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I'm considering a bolt in bar in the over the engine. Don't want to weld it in and permanently hurt engine access. Needs to be stout though; might have to find a calculator and commit an act of Engineering!
Also needs to fit in and around the engine cover and block off plates; ugh
Am I over thinking it? Maybe okay around town, but I'm setting up for track day work

Shawn818c

01-07-2023, 09:20 AM

I think the belts in the engine bay will lead to premature failure of the webbing.

driveslikejehu

01-07-2023, 09:30 AM

I think the belts in the engine bay will lead to premature failure of the webbing.

I agree in general. I was thinking of the area shown in red, above the close off aluminum, or somehow shielded.
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Hobby Racer

01-07-2023, 02:29 PM

I also needed the shoulder belt mounting position to be lower. It's a good idea to keep them out of the engine bay. I welded the shoulder eyelets to the lower section of the 1.5" main cross bar that the roll hoop ties into. I also added some thick steel plates for added strength since the square tube is only 0.095" thick.

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driveslikejehu

01-07-2023, 02:53 PM

Yeah, H.R. that's a solid solution. The height I need would put my attachment pieces on top of that square tube, which would make it easier. I will have little room to implement it, as the seat is far back, but may work. I thought I saw something about the shoulder belt anchorage not being too close to the seat/shoulder but I don’t find it mentioned in my Sabelt instructions.
Welded options are a pain as I have to take the whole rig to my guy. Not fun in a Chicago winter. ( I need to learn to weld…)

driveslikejehu

01-20-2023, 02:59 PM

When its warmer (30+) I'll heat up the garage and work a while. When its colder I'm in the basement cutting out body vents.
Got the FFR mono wiper installed. Not adjusted, gonna need a windshield for that. At least got the electrical handled.
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Also working on trimming out the shifter and e-brake areas a little. Needs a bit more work, but getting there. I like the idea of covering this aluminum with wrap material. Hides a few hammer marks.
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Still figuring out the shoulder harness anchoring. Thinking of a bolt-in bar across the whole width behind the rollbar legs, sitting on the square tubes back there. Puts it about the right height. The HANS device actually raises where the belts head thru the seat and so helps the angle a little.
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I forgot to mention; I made a little boot for the ZBD shifter from a steering rack bellows. Is there a better solution?
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driveslikejehu

01-28-2023, 02:26 PM

I installed the wiper motor a few weeks ago; easy, good instructions, all parts as expected.
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Finally laid the windshield in place temporarily to check arm and hood clearance. Using the provided hood support it fits well. I will trim the return flanges on the hood, but will trim in this area as well.
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3 tweeks to the wiper arm. The little button screw in area A hit the arm, I just reversed its orientation.
At B, I bent it down a bit as recomended in the instructions
At C, I bent it the other way to ensure the base come close to the glass, and under the hood.

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driveslikejehu

02-19-2023, 06:10 PM

As others have noted, fitting the fenders and hood is quite a 3-d puzzle. After a few trys, I backed off and measured everything (nearly).

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I found the hood to be even and square. The significant thing I found was the left fender was between 1/2" and 5/8" longer. I measure along the path shown in green and point to point
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So a nice looking fit in that area is future John's problem...

I was pretty happy with cutting down the hood flanges.
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I tried a few tools; a body saw, an oscillating tool, dremel, then ended up using a hack saw blade in a pull to cut configuration. Used the oscillating tool for a few plunge cuts along the path, then the hacksaw. A little slower, but lots of control and not a ton of dust. See the little bit I cut off in the top of the tool pic
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The rear is coming along as well. I found one fender was slightly over 1/8" wider and the opposite flange was wider. After measurring to a center, I got them positioned within 1/16" at fender to shock tower, and a good fender to eng cover gap.

driveslikejehu

02-21-2023, 02:38 PM

A friend who builds boats and does a lot of fiberglass work, recommended an oscillating tool for cutting the composite body panels. There may be a less clunky name for these things but that's what I see everywhere.
They work well with the right blade; goes thru the panels with less violence than a body saw and way less dust than just sanding them down. I’m only getting started with these, so my first cuts on the hood I used the oscillating tool to plunge in a few places along the cut line.
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Then I cut the rest of the way manually with a hacksaw blade
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goes pretty fast

aquillen

02-22-2023, 02:28 PM

driveslikejehu

02-22-2023, 05:12 PM

The helmet is a hoot. BUT the shifter really looks great - guts all visible and at the same time has a simple elegance in showing them. Boot rigged up is my kind of thing - repurposed instead of landfill - love it.

Thanks! My daughter does my helmets. She's a graphic artist and uses a technique called gesture drawing that I really like. It’s a little scary to give her a white helmet and see what I get back.

driveslikejehu

03-18-2023, 05:14 PM

Big shout out to Blwalker105 for his headlight mounting method; at least that's where I saw it first. It worked well. I used his strings and weights concept to try to keep the screws parallel. This is IMPORTANT for fitting the buckets up.
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I didn't read his write-up thoroughly so had to add heat later to make the bucket fit better. Aluminum foil and an old shirt make a pretty good insulating blanket, lol.
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Also, made some doo-dads to make the nut fit easier.
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driveslikejehu

03-23-2023, 10:31 AM

Pictures of the dash cut outs for R frame.
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another R dash; sorry, I fogot whose it is...
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blomb11

03-23-2023, 02:21 PM

Thanks for sharing this will help me a lot. Pretty standard for the R to require some cutting and mods ;)

I just found that other picture from Mitch Wright and his R dash. These help to provide context where the manual falls short.

driveslikejehu

03-31-2023, 02:19 PM

I used RomRaider and the Tactrix cable to clear the DTC codes. Thanks and props to mcamera for the how-to. I ain’t gonna lie, it’s a pucker up moment when you hit return to upload your modified code to the ECU.

Then I realized the other dash lights weren’t related to the ECU; ABS, Airbag, Rear Diff, parking brake/level lights. Gathering info from various other posts, here’s what I ended up doing. This is for my 2006 STI based car. Based on what I've read its applicable to other post 2004 cars; not 100% sure though.
A couple of notes: I’m using the nomenclature from the manual referring to the 3 green connectors to the gage clustering; A=i12, B=i10, C=i11. Also, power to the dash; the RW wire going to C7 on the cluster is powered when switch is On. BW wire going to B1 is powered when engine is running.

ABS light: LgY wire from B3; shorted to ground. Light stays out.

Rear Diff light: YR wire from B4; shorted to ground. Light goes out when engine is running.

Airbag light: GR wire from B18; jumpered to RW wire for switched power. Light stays out

Brake light: Sb wire from A2; shorted to ground, light stays out

I fretted a while about the DCCD text thinking it was a warning light. Then I realized its just text for the DCCD control area of the dash.

From this
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To this.
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Now for some Four Roses…

driveslikejehu

04-08-2023, 10:52 AM

driveslikejehu

04-24-2023, 05:08 PM

Like some other folks, I don’t like the idea of the air coming out of the radiator just being uncontrolled in the under-dash area. (tho this is the case in most road cars- air exiting the rad just finds its way under the engine and car).
So, I added an additional aluminum wall and fab’d ducts to extract more air. These increase the exit area by close to 50% over the hood vents. Can go more if needed.
Had fun with my first epoxy fiberglass effort
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Installed these in the blocking panel. They vent to the wheel well, which has openings to the extraction area between door and fender.
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I'm concerned that the one small opening in the front bumper feeds enough air to the radiator. I posted about it in the general discussion thread.

Bicyclops

04-24-2023, 10:27 PM

So I when I did my beautiful brake line work 14 months ago, I put the proportioning valve on the rear line. I guess I relied on the Wilwood instructions or old experience. Now I realized the manual as well as forum discussion indicate it should be on the front. I get it, potentially too much braking on the front with the weight bias change.
Feel free to tell me I’m wrong, before I redo it, lol.

A front engine car weight shifts a lot more than a mid car. They come with much bigger brakes on the front. The FFR Wilwood setup, if I understand it correctly, is the same - larger brakes on the front than the rear and dial the front brakes back. The 818 has about 65% weight in the rear, at least mine does, and being so low isn't going to dive much under braking. I went with equal size (large) brakes front and rear and put the valve in the rear line. I haven't adjusted it yet, but so far it seems OK.

Ed

driveslikejehu

05-01-2023, 12:27 PM

The vestiges of curved fiberglass on the R engine cover always bugged me
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So I cut them out, leaving enough of the panel to weaken and bend into shape
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When doing this on the humps area, I filled in the unneeded rollbar hole and extended down to meet the aluminum with some cut-off bits
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Will have to fill and finish before paint prep, but I feel better about it, lol

driveslikejehu

05-18-2023, 09:47 AM

When loading the windshield glass and frame to take for installation, I found I had cracked the glass somewhere along the way. FFR has them for $250 which isn’t bad, but shipping is $280. I was able to get a 2002 MR2 windshield and installation locally for $300. I’ll show the number in case it might help anyone.
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blomb11

05-18-2023, 12:17 PM

Nice great deal you found! Car is starting to come together for your first track day too.

driveslikejehu

05-18-2023, 01:54 PM

I attached the headlight “glass” with .045" VHB tape. There are few bubbles in the joint but- kit car.
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As others has done, I epoxied 8-23 screws in the fenders to allow removing the headlight buckets. I used adhesive backed 3/16” EPDM foam to form the seal.
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May seal around the glass with black silicone, but generally okay with the result.

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driveslikejehu

05-26-2023, 05:28 PM

I needed a few shots to use in the registration process. Couldn't stop taking pics...
Don't mind that some bits are held on by tape..:)
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Hobby Racer

05-27-2023, 06:10 AM

It's a great feeling when you see it all together for the first time. Nice job.

driveslikejehu

05-27-2023, 06:19 AM

It's a great feeling when you see it all together for the first time. Nice job.

Thanks! It's sort of a team effort with you folks on the forum that inspire and inform.

The pictures somehow don't do it justice; its seems lower and leaner in person.

driveslikejehu

06-02-2023, 04:41 PM

Another one of those little STi gotcha moments is that the Intercooler won't fit under the engine cover. I'm still not 100% decided about how to deal with it ( a whole new engine cover design...?), but experimented with a couple of solutions.
I made some vertical supports for engine cover to rest on and give about 3/4" clearance.
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The normal cover pin locations pull down okay, though with added cover to side gap.

In the front I lowered the aluminum block plate in the front of the engine cover and added some slide in catch features. This will allow fairly easy one person handling and raises the front of the engine cover about 1-3/4".
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All this raising caused the vestigal "wings" to be elevated. I didn't want screws or anything that would require a tool and inhibit quick cover removal. I ended up with old school Dzus fasteners (I won't tell which service I stole them from many years ago if you don't). These will be down in a couple of yet to be developed scoops in this area to grab air for the IC.
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Finally I installed the rear wheel tubs. This was by far the most difficult part of assembling this car. Nothing fit as expected, when I finally got one in position with all the hands and clamps I have, drilled a hole and it would move out of position. Finally completed with suitable amount of sweat and profanity .
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Sunday is the first outing beyond up and down the block. Going to a small club auto cross as a first shake down.

lpmagruder

06-03-2023, 10:26 AM

I'm with you on the rear tubs. My car is almost complete and that has by a decent margin been the most frustrating and time consuming part. They still don't fit well, I hear them banging around like crazy when I drive so there's some trimming I still need to do, and I plan to add some more support/triangulation to keep the big flat areas from vibrating.

idf

06-03-2023, 12:17 PM

driveslikejehu

06-03-2023, 04:03 PM

Consider the mounting tabs from Zero Decibel Motorsports.

I wasn't aware of that; it's a good idea. Thanks

driveslikejehu

06-05-2023, 06:46 AM

Quite pleased with the car’s first outing, an autocross in an old ¼ mile banked oval in Rockford Il. First autocross in a few decades but took a good suggestion for a shakedown before a track day in a few weeks.

So far, handling seems okay. I was concerned about and tried to induce snap oversteer with a big lifts mid-corner. The car was like, “Yes, and…?,” wasn’t bothered. Has the expected push on corner entry but neutral thru the corners; steerable with the throttle like my Cayman.
And it’s a hot rod… When the boost comes in- with lots of whooshing noises- it gives a nice taste of power-to-weight ratio.

But mainly… nothing fell off, nothing smoked. Beyond a small yet to be identified coolant leak. Still needs work on the brake bias; the rears have barely scuffed the rotors.
And it’s a crowd pleaser; everybody stops by to check it out…
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some in-car on Youtube
https://youtu.be/docdrIc-SYs

driveslikejehu

06-26-2023, 07:08 AM

Finally got the 818 on the track. First real drive after a year and half build.

First, my setup:
Stock 2006 STi drive train, all electronics and all 4 corners
Falken RT-660 tires; 215/45-17 and 245/40-17
Springs: 400# front/ 300# rear; running 17mm front sway bar

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First impressions: Its a racecar; its stiff, raw, lots of NVH, but lots of go. Easily hitting speeds on the straights comparable to my Cayman, though laps time were much slower as I’m trying to learn it and not push too hard. Fun to heel and toe once again.

Learnings/ things to fix: My temporary IC air flow was inadequate. I have a 2 sensor IAT gage and “cooled” air wasn’t much cooler. I’m working on scoops and better ducting to get air to/thru the IC, but didn’t get them finished. Then we’ll see if another option is needed.
Shifting got tight, locked up. I’ll post more detail in the trans section. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?46505-Shifter-locked-up

Handling was pretty great. I’m still getting use to the idea of no nannies, but every drive builds confidence. I noticed definite understeer turning in to corners at first. This seemed to improve when the tires got a bit of heat. Thru the corners seemed very stable, plenty of grip. Any power oversteer seems modest and controlled, though I wasn’t really booting it out of corners.

Brakes are strong but need more rear bias. I used about half the adjustment in the Wilwood dual MC setup and a turn or two on the proportioning valve, but still lock up a front on occasion. Rear brakes aren’t in the game much.

Cooling seemed adequate. On a sunny 92deg day I never got the temp gage in the stock dash out of the middle. I plan to verify if this working properly but seems to be. Oil temp got to maybe 240. Not too concerned about this but I’d like to hear thoughts on it.

Overall successful first outing I think.

driveslikejehu

07-30-2023, 02:43 PM

I’ve been working on IC scoops that go where the stock ones did, are a bit bigger and can help to clean up the awkward area caused by the R rollbar.
I cut off the forward reaching arms of the engine cover and used these to build on. I glassed on a floor and some side pieces, then started making the shape with polystyrene foam. This stuff works well with the epoxy and glass.
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When I got pretty close to the shape, I added 2 layers of 6oz glass. I cut out the pink foam with a repurposed long filleting knife.
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I added brackets on the frame and upper side area as shown with yellow arrows. I worked out a way to attach the forward side end of the engine cover with a dzus fastener that is reached down in the scoop.
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Pretty happy with how this is looking and early testing suggests I’m getting decent delta-T thru the IC. Next track day will really tell the tale on that.

driveslikejehu

09-12-2023, 10:16 AM

After application was 8 weeks in the bureaucracy, the State Police came and inspected my car. Approved! Got the Illinois VIN to prove it. Easy peasy; the only thing that had me worried was how the parking lights don't get enough volts unless the engine is running. He didn't ask, so okay...
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blomb11

09-12-2023, 11:12 AM

Heck yea that is awesome congrats! And secretly super jealous :p

driveslikejehu

09-12-2023, 11:37 AM

Heck yea that is awesome congrats! And secretly super jealous :p

Thanks! The benefits of being retired; plenty of project time

FFRWRX

09-12-2023, 12:31 PM

Very nice work on those scoops!

Maybe tape some strings in front of them and go for a drive just to make sure air is flowing in. I remember reading that the rear/side scoops on the original Cobra Daytona worked in reverse due to the windshield causing a huge dead spot. They added the deflectors to the sides of the windshield to keep the airflow attached.

driveslikejehu

09-23-2023, 03:24 PM

Got the tags and title in the mail! Just in time to take the wife out to celebrate our 35th anniversary.
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Just like a real car...

driveslikejehu

02-03-2024, 09:06 AM

Don't know if I need a splitter, but I did need a winter project I could do in the basement. Plywood core with 2 plys of 6oz glass epoxied on either side. Didn't try to make it perfect as I expect it'll get damaged.

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blomb11

02-03-2024, 01:13 PM

Looks awesome!

driveslikejehu

04-11-2024, 12:47 PM

I decided to make a diffuser to partially close off the parachute like rear bumper. Made the mold using insulation foam and plywood with a couple of layers of epoxy filler. Then laid it up with 2 layers of 6oz woven around 2 layers of mat. Very flexible but came out pretty well.
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Now that its warmer, time get back in the garage.

blomb11

04-11-2024, 02:30 PM

Nice! I want to do the same thing rather than buy the FFR one which they probably don't sell anymore anyways.

driveslikejehu

04-30-2024, 03:07 PM

I've been waiting on warmer weather to do some testing (yes, in Chicagoland that means late April). I could see that I was getting about 30* temperature drop across the IC, but wanted to make sure the scoops are doing something. We'll I'm not sure what's happening, but I'll take it.
The first test showed air coming up from the side of the car, heading to the scoops, but very confused flow at the inlet.
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But as noted, under boost I could see a good temp drop. I thought either flow is confused at the surface, or air is coming up around the engine and stopping the scoop flow...?
Anyway, I ended up adding 4" flex ducting to see what woud happen. Also added a couple of tufts in middle of the opening.
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In the area in the white oval flow seems very confused or even reversing. Over by the inboard wall it seems good; blue arrow.
Putting around I see a little temp drop. Under boost in that last configuration I get better than 40*. I'll take it.
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driveslikejehu

05-18-2024, 07:56 AM

First full track day and wow! Lots of grip, plenty of brakes and great torquey power. It is a very participatory experience. Have to work a lot harder having fun than in my Cayman. And like the Cayman, the car has more capability than I do, so it pulls you along.
For reference, mine is an 818R, street setup, using a 2006 STi donor; stock engine and drive train. The only aero I have is a homemade splitter (grass cutter) and sorta diffuser.
Other than one off due to poor brake balance, no issues noted. Good cooling, oil temps stayed in line, no low oil pressure warning.
It will take more track time to figure out what to tweak next. I didn’t notice any odd behavior. My IC scoops were less effective than on the street, but I have more than enough power for now. Like the man said, before spending the next thousand dollars on the equipment, learn to drive faster.
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Youtube link to my "off": https://youtu.be/9DNGw06aMS0

driveslikejehu

06-23-2024, 01:49 PM

Another track day; more development.
I think I’ve settled on an Intercooler air flow system. The scoops I fabricated in place of the standard FFR worked around town but not much at the track, even with dedicated ducts. Following inspiration in some old forum posts, I added pusher fans to the IC. I wired them to the ACCY relay using an unused Subaru switch.
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Now I’m getting a good 60+deg delta when pulling down the straight. IC inlet about ~200* and outlet about 135*. A little testing in the shop showed the fans pulled air from the scoop area- and wherever else. Sorry for the low rent “data acquisition.”
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After my shifting locked up last year on a hot day, I suspected heat- though never understood why/how. I installed a heat shield between the exhaust/cat and transmission. A doubled it for grins and radiation transfer thoughts. This time I saw reasonable trans temp- never above ~150deg. Using an IR probe, I measured 460+ on the exhaust side and ~170* on the trans side of the shield.
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Still getting use to the car; learning to trust the grip and balance. This time I really noted turn-in is very impressive; I find I can always tighten the line. The front seems to stick like crazy. Never any understeer.
Mid-80’s and no cooling or oil pressure issues.

driveslikejehu

07-08-2024, 10:08 AM

Unloading after last track day, I noticed I could hear the turbo spooling up and down; hadn't noticed that before. Also, some rattling in exhaust area. I pulled the downpipe off to see how the cat looked, and... its all gone! So I guess sorry? for spraying folks with cat bits?
I've had no comments about loudness with just the cat, now it's a bit louder, not much. I'll see how long I can get away with it...
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Bicyclops

07-08-2024, 12:37 PM

At least it wasn't in the up-pipe. I bet you would have really noticed new turbo noises.:(

Ed

driveslikejehu

07-08-2024, 01:49 PM

At least it wasn't in the up-pipe. Ed
Some have a catted up-pipe? Yeah, Cuisinart

Bob_n_Cincy

07-10-2024, 11:41 PM

Some have a catted up-pipe? Yeah, Cuisinart

I'm running a catted up pipe and a catted downpipe on a 2.5L TD04 turbo and no muffler. I meet the sound requirement at NCM Motorsports park. It is quiet enough for the street as long as I keep my foot out of it.
If mine goes it will give me an excuse to go to a bigger turbo. Probably go to a stock STI vf39 or vf48. Then get it tuned for 300 WHP. If I remember correctly I'm about 195 WHP now.
Bob

driveslikejehu

11-06-2024, 08:21 AM

In celebration of forum activity, I want to add also
Figuring it's time to start winter projects and also help plant the rear, I've started the rear wing. Thanks to HobbyRacer and Blomb11 for structure ideas
Figuring anything worth doing is worth doing twice, I mocked it up first.
Maybe it wood work?
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driveslikejehu

12-13-2024, 04:34 PM

A little reel of my wing project
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Couldn't embed the vid so here's a link

https://www.facebook.com/1810434077/videos/968628041748464/

Dave 53

12-13-2024, 05:56 PM

Nice! Now you can mount an oil cooler to your framework.

driveslikejehu

12-14-2024, 08:33 AM

... Now you can mount an oil cooler to your framework.

Oil cooler already on one side to try to catch air from the side vent. But yeah, the structure makes it convenient.
Next project is more openings in the rear "bumper"

driveslikejehu

04-10-2025, 12:33 PM

Another winter project complete. I made some Cayman GT4 inspired scoops for the side vents.
Made a plug from foam then glass/epoxy over the final shape.
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blomb11

04-10-2025, 05:44 PM

Looks good! And simple. How did you mount them to the side pods? I bought a set from a forum member they developed but have been debating about installing them or not. I have noticed my intake temps are kind of high with the filter right behind the passenger firewall. I have been thinking about extending the intake piping to put the filer right next to the side pod opening to try and get the cooler air.