Russwood's Coyote Powered Mk IV - Build Progress Updates

[Russwood]

Russwood's Coyote Powered Mk IV

So here we go! After following several threads of incredible builds, I've decided to chronicle mine.

I will admit openly that I've made a ton of choices based on what I've seen on this forum. I suppose that's what its supposed to be about, so a huge THANK YOU to all of those that have blazed the trail before me. It has definitely bolstered my confidence, and I've learned tons. Special thanks to EdwardB and his multiple build threads. His details and explanations are excellent, and if you haven't spent a day (or more) going through those, you should. I spent several Saturdays down that rabbit hole, and better for it!

I've always wanted to do a kit car. Growing up in the 70's/80's, I'd stare at the ads in magazines for the latest "supercar" kit that could be mine. I'd bug my dad relentlessly, and he always would just smile and tell me we'd look into it. But at 13 or 14 years old, reality hasn't yet been fully understood, so it always stayed a dream, right up there with playing professional sports or becoming a world champion race car driver (neither happened by the way). Fast forward 35 years or so, and as a 50-something electrical contractor with the means (finally) and the experience to forge into this world, I began the process of finding out just how far the kit car world had come. Along came Factory Five Racing, and I've never looked back.

The biggest problem I had was which one to build! So after months of back and forth in my mind, and a quick conversation on this forum with EdwardB, I chose the Roadster. But still some questions bugged me: Is the body stiff or floppy? Can my big offensive lineman type body fit? How solid is the the car? None could be answered by looking at photos or hours on the website.

Then providence happened. My son-in-law is a big Red Sox fan. I grew up a Braves fan. While eating lunch one day, he texts me that the Braves are playing a 2-game set in Boston, and wouldn't it be cool to go see them play. He's never been to Fenway, and I hadn't been to a Braves game in years, so my mind started to move past "what if...". I did my research, and a few weeks later we had a plan. In May of this year, we all (wife, son, daughter, son-in-law) flew to Boston for 10 days. What a blast! Got to do a tour of Fenway before the game, and had a great time (Sox won :mad:, but the Braves won the World Series, so :p). But beyond the bucket list event of the Fenway visit, I secretly (not so secretly really) planned a full day to drive from Boston down to Wareham to visit the mother ship. Stupid COVID kept us from a full factory tour, but Mad Dog was awesome and we sat in just about every car in the showroom except for the Joe Legano roadster - I just didn't feel like having the embarrassing moment when the fire department would have to use the jaws of life to get my old fat tail out of it. I did squeeze into the famous blue '65 Coupe in the R&D area, and decided that I needed to lower my goals some after that exercise of amateur yoga. We were also able to visit for a while with Dan Galub and drool over his LSX twin turbo powered Coupe (he even started and revved it for us!). He's such a great source of advice and knowledge - just wish he'd finish his video build series, but he tells me he can't keep a car long enough to get them filmed! Good problem to have.

Came home and promptly ordered my Mark IV. With a November 20 completion date, it's been the longest 6 months of my life. But only days away from being picked up by Stewart Transport, so looking like I'll receive it shortly after Thanksgiving. One more thing to be thankful for.

Ok - enough of the build up.

So here's the plan:

From FFR:

Mark IV Complete Kit

Uncoated Chassis

Hydraulic Clutch

Body Cut-outs

Front Sway Bar

2015 IRS

IRS Sway Bar

12.88" Wilwood Brakes (Front & Rear)

Power Steering Rack

EFI In-Tank Fuel System

Diamond Stitched Seats

Vintage Gauges

Vinyl Dash w/ Glovebox

Wind Wings

Sun Visors

Wipers

Brake Duct Wire Mesh Inserts

Leather Steering Wheel

Trunk Gas Strut Kit

Sourced elsewhere (gotta love the internet!):

Coyote 5.0L Gen 3 Crate Engine from Ford Performance

Billet Polished Aluminum "WRAPTER" Serpentine Belt System from CVF Racing w/ Polished Alternator and Power Steering Pump

Billet Aluminum Valve Covers from MMR

Tremec T56 Manual Transmission

Tilton ST-246 Twin Disc Clutch w/ Matched Billet 164 Tooth Flywheel

Tilton 6100 Series Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing

Quicktime RM-8080 Steel Bellhousing & Backplate

Ford Torsen 3.73 IRS Center Section (gently used from a wrecked 2020 Shelby GT500)

Ford Performance Rear IRS Knuckles & Hubs

GasN Polished Side Pipes

GasN Polished Coyote Long Tube Headers

So I hope you enjoy what I share, and please be generous with your tips and tricks when you see me headed down the wrong path.

Cheers!

Russ

[JohnK]

Looks like a great build plan. With D-Day (delivery day) only a few days away now, you must be going crazy with anticipation.

[Russwood]

It's killing me for sure. My wife has already started referring to herself as the "project widow".

[Russwood]

Getting started

Need to catch up to the present with what I've already done, so this and a few following updates will do just that.

With the kit ordered (early June) and the summer ahead, I began the process of collecting & preparing for the build. Because my buddy has recently taught me to weld (Grandpa tried, but I was a horrible student back then), along with the investment in a multi-process rig, I've been practicing on small projects and growing my skill set. After getting some confidence, I started the first big project - a shop crane.

First, some back story. I hope this doesn't come across as bragging or anything, but I am truly blessed. My father, who was a machinist and worked at Tinker AFB for most of my life, taught me just about everything I know about cars and mechanics. I became a commercial electrician, and with that training and dad's (and granddad's) weekend lessons, I've learned to do quite a bit of fabrication. Through all of that, we did most of our work either in the driveway or in my grandpa's old garage (it had a big crack in the floor that would flip your creeper over and dump you on the ground). We never had enough light, worked under jack stands, and would be all twisted up at the end of a long day fixing something. Dad always wanted a first class shop with a lift to make things easier, and nearing the end of his life he finally realized that dream. He built the most awesome shop building on his place, which is conveniently next door to my house, with 14' ceilings, a 12' high oversized overhead door, another oversized bay next to it, heating and air conditioning (yep - I'm spoiled), and a loft for storage with permanent stair access. We epoxied the floor, painted stripes on the walls, and being an electrician, I lit it up like Time's Square. We put in a central compressed air piping system, wired for welders, the works. It's got a TV, WIFI, a microwave, fridge (obviously), coffee machine, the works. Shortly after it was finished, my brother and I installed a 10K Eagle two-post lift. We called it the "Race car shop without the race car". He made it so nice, we even have family get-togethers in there for Thanksgiving & Christmas. The saddest part was that he lost his battle with kidney failure and heart disease before it was complete, and he never got to see it in it's final full glory. Our first event was my oldest child's high school graduation party, and we knew we'd be thinking of him every time we used it. Considering having a sign made for mom to put over the door - "Roger's Shop". He would have loved everything we've done in there since he built it, and I know he'd be super excited to help me build this car. Love you Dad - miss you every day.

Here's the lift after we finished:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156440&d=1637171673

Here's the shop - looking from my garage:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156443&d=1637171673

We tested the limits of the lift right away - had to rewire the big gooseneck trailer from work:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156444&d=1637171673
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156445&d=1637171722

And the completed shop...drumroll...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156442&d=1637171673

Here's how we set it up for fellowships & dinners (this was my daughter's graduation party, complete with my mom taking a quick break):
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156441&d=1637171673

Ok - on to the crane.

[Russwood]

Shop Crane

So my idea was to make something that was big enough to pick up whatever I wanted, but would tuck away neatly so it wouldn't be in the way too much. I liked the idea of how we move & set large equipment at work, so using that inspiration and some repurposed scrap iron, I set out to make an I-beam gantry with a stance wider than my lift so it would sit against it with the legs straddled around it.

I started with fabricating the legs out of 4" square tube welded to a 5' long piece of 4" x 8" rectangle tube - all 1/4" thick wall. I cut angled braces out of 2" square tubing to stiffen the post. I made the vertical as long as possible while still being able to roll it out of my 12' tall overhead door in case I needed to use it out on the driveway. After welding everything together, I cut a top plate from some scrap sheet steel I snagged from the recycle bin at a jobsite and welded it on.

Here's a pic of the first leg nearly done (please pardon the messy shop). You can see the I-beam in the picture below the leg. Pretty rusty and dirty, but it cleaned up pretty good. This is also proof that a car lift is useful for more than lifting cars.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156456&d=1637171856

And after big casters are fitted:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156457&d=1637171856

One down, one to go. Still need to paint it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156458&d=1637171856

For the main beam, I used a 10' long piece that's pretty heavy duty. I burned holes in the ends to match the ones in my top plate, and after a solid day of the angle grinder with a wire brush, it was clean enough to paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156446&d=1637171792

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156447&d=1637171792

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156448&d=1637171792

[Russwood]

Shop crane continued...

With some help from my brother, using the lift (again - more than for lifting cars!), we rigged a set of scaffolding to gain some height and lifted the beam up enough to roll the legs under it and bolted everything together with 1/2" bolts and locking nuts.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156449&d=1637171792

All done! Borrowed a trolley from work (gotta take that back someday) and hung my chain hoist. I have plans to replace that with an electric hoist, but manual for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156459&d=1637171856

We put my brother's Pathfinder on the lift and raised it up to make sure we didn't hit the beam with a car all the way up. It's not all the way up in this picture, but you'll have to take my word that it clears. Good to go!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156451&d=1637171818

[CaptB]

Boomer Sooner!

[Russwood]

Rah Oklahoma!

Didn't do so great this past weekend though...

[Russwood]

IRS Center Section

Now to the actual build!

After we got back from Boston and I placed my order, the urge to do something was killing me. I originally ordered a new center section from FFR with my kit. After reading EdwardB's build thread (I think it was his 20th Anniversary Roadster - could've been his Coupe, can't remember), I caught that Ford Performance wasn't offering the Torsen 3.73 center section any more, and only a few still in stock at places. Since his thread was a little older, when I looked, they were wayyy long gone. Nothing wrong with the clutch style locking version Ford is offering, but it's a 3.55 ratio, and if you can find a Torsen, I'm told it's the way to go. Reading that the 3.73 ratio matches nicely with the T56 gears, I set off to find one. Good old eBay. Found one from a 2020 Shelby GT500 that had under 10K miles for $700. Too good a deal to pass on, so I ordered it. After $125 in shipping, I had it in 2 days. Can't beat that. So even after buying the rear knuckles and hubs from Summit Racing (the FFR option comes with those along with the center section), I'm under the $1499 that the 3.55 would cost me from FFR.

The unit was pretty nasty, which is to be expected coming from a parts farm out of a wrecked (presumably) car. I cracked it open to see what it looked like, and it sure looks like it's not got a lot of miles on it. The ring gear looks nearly new, and the pinion did as well. No chips, wear patterns, nothing. Even so, I planned to replace the bearings and seals just to be 100% sure. Tore it down pretty quickly, and after some time in the blast cabinet to get all the rust off the iron case, I painted it with a few coats of the POR top coat gloss black. Unit looks brand new.

Here's some pics of the process. First few are of the "walk around" after unboxing it, then a look at the ring & pinion gears. Last photo is the iron case after painting.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156462&d=1637176597

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156463&d=1637178250

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156464&d=1637178250

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156465&d=1637178250

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156466&d=1637178250

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156467&d=1637178250

[Tbev]

156491156491
Your garage is almost as impressive as the 13ft x 23ft man coffin that I'm building mine in!
:)

[Russwood]

IRS Center Section continued...

Had to wait for the bearings and seals to show up, so I turned to the cover. This isn't really that visible after installed, but details matter, so I'm trying to decide what to do with this. My first idea was to polish it since it's aluminum. Problem 1 - it's a cast piece, so there's countless tiny pinholes that show up once you start to sand it. It was pretty evident that this was a horrible idea and would take me forever. On to plan B.

I thought about sandblasting it and "shortcutting" the polishing process. Using some 80 grit aluminum oxide media, it cleans up nice and really sparkles. Problem 2 - how to keep it that way. I sprayed it with some Dupli-color ceramic clear engine paint, and it immediately turned gray. Still shiny, but looks like I painted it primer gray then used clear over it. Not at all what I hoped. So I'm back to the beginning, and not really sure what to try next. I may just do some experimentation with some chrome paint or something, but it bothers me that it won't be that true aluminum look. Something will come to me.

So the seals & bearings came in, so after pressing the bottom bearing on the pinion gear, its time to put it all back together. Since the unit was pretty new and I was reusing the original ring and pinion, I used the same shims. All is going well until its time to tighten that pinion nut and set the pre-load on the crush sleeve. Way harder than I expected it to be. Impact wrench wouldn't touch it - wouldn't even take up all the slack. I have to do most things by myself, so how in the world am I going to do this? My uncle tells me "I always did them in the car, so the car holds everything". Problem is that I don't think he ever worked on a IRS version - he's been out of the business for a while. If you don't know what I'm talking about, the IRS center section cover is half of the mounting, so you can't remove it while it's installed. At least I'm not clever enough to figure out how.

My solution was primitive but effective. Back into the scrap metal bin - grabbed a beefy piece of angle and clamped it to the work bench. After notching a spot for my socket to pass through, I bolted the pinion flange to the angle so it was all locked down. Using a breaker bar and a section of pipe for a cheater, I was able to tighten it up and could control the amount in small increments to get the pre-load right. The only flaw is you have to unbolt the thing from the angle to check the pre-load with the torque indicator. After a few tries, got it right in the middle of the zone. Ford says the pre-load for new bearings should be 16-28 lb-in, and I hit it at 23. Good enough.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156468&d=1637178266

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156469&d=1637178266

I installed the new axle bearings and seals, and she's ready. I put the cover back on without any sealant for now - I plan to remove it once I decide on what the finish should look like. No oil in it either until final assembly of the car - sure don't need that stuff all over everything.

On to the Coyote and friends...

[Russwood]

156491156491
Your garage is almost as impressive as the 13ft x 23ft man coffin that I'm building mine in!
:)

I like your set up. Can't wait to see mine in the shop. The problem with a big shop is that it is really easy to mess up, and then takes forever to clean! In fact, this weekend is pretty much booked to get it all cleaned up and presentable for Thanksgiving. So the fun will have to wait.

[Russwood]

Coyote and Friend

So, I have to brag on Summit Racing. I know all of you will tell me that they've been doing this for years, but I'm new to buying from them. After shopping around, they had the best price on the engine and transmission. Free shipping on the engine, so after a little back and forth with my bank on the charge (they flagged it as fraud - I suspect my wife may have put them up to it), it shipped the next day. I expected several days since it obviously ships by truck, but I got a call from the freight carrier that it was showing up the very next day along with the transmission. So ordered on Monday, shipped on Tuesday, at my work warehouse on Wednesday. I was blown away. It did help that it came out of the Arlington, TX location and I'm in OKC, but a win is a win.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156471&d=1637178266

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156470&d=1637178266

Had to clear out the truck to get it all home, then had to work out how in the world to get it out of the truck. After some creative problem solving, my handy gantry and chain hoist made quick work.

On the ground and off the pallet. She sure is pretty except for all that plastic.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156472&d=1637178266

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156473&d=1637178284

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156474&d=1637178284

[Tbev]

I guess there is one benefit to having such a small space to build in, you have no choice but to keep it clean. Your shop is awesome and will be so user friendly when it comes to your build. Enjoy every minute of it, I sure am!

[Russwood]

Coyote and Friend Part 2

So, next order of business is to get it up on the stand. The thing about the Coyote is how wide it is with those big heads. It's hard to pick up using the traditional chain method because you have to go around the plastic valve covers to get to something stout, and I'm worried I'll break something. I could make some bracket that would extend it out to clear everything, but then I caught a series of YouTube videos of some guys building a Coupe from a wrecked Mustang. They were using a lifting plate that doubled as a cover for the intake ports made by Motion Raceworks. I found their website and ordered one - about $80. I know chain is cheaper, but not if I break something I can't fix. It also makes a pretty handy work surface while tinkering on the engine. The other clever feature is that the lifting portion has 5 large holes that allow you to pitch the angle and/or balance it once the transmission is installed. It also has tapped holes to store the bolts in when you aren't using it so they don't get lost. More cleverness. I'm sure there's others out there, but I was pleased.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156475&d=1637178284

So my first item was to change the flywheel out and get the backplate installed before it went onto the stand. I didn't realize just how heavy that dual-mass flywheel is, and nearly dropped it on my foot when it came off. Oh, and beware if you do one of these - that thing isn't very hard to get off. I expected more resistance after the bolts came out, but it didn't take much at all and she was headed for my toes. Plan ahead - set up something to catch it or get some help. I got lucky and didn't drop it, but my heart jumped for sure.

Old flywheel and pilot bearing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156476&d=1637178284

Removed - you can see the crank position sensor and wheel. No more pilot bearing - it's actually installed in the old flywheel. Hence why FFR tells you to get a new one to go in the end of the crankshaft.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156477&d=1637178284

New pilot bearing installed:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156478&d=1637178354

All going well...until it wasn't. I opened the Quicktime bellhousing box to get the backplate since it has to go on before the new flywheel. Ask me how I know this. It wasn't because I was paying attention, so I got practice on installing the new flywheel. No laughing. So off with the new flywheel to put the backplate on. Only it wouldn't fit. Color me puzzled, so I check the part number on the box - it's right. RM-8080. Check the bellhousing, same number. I test fit the bellhousing and it fits perfectly. Now I'm really irritated. After a close look at the backplate, I find the part number scribed on it - RM-8080. Took a quick break and grabbed a soda, then back to solve the mystery. Looking closer, the number on the backplate was actually RM-8030. The 3 looked a lot like an 8, so I can see how it happened. Just the wrong backplate packed in the box. I looked up the RM-8030 for curiosity and found that it's for a different Ford motor. Texted customer service at Summit, and they responded in seconds. Shipped out a full replacement kit same day and they arranged for UPS to pick up my wrong one. I packed everything back up and put it on the porch with the instructions written on the box like the robot at customer service said, and UPS took it yesterday. New one is sitting on my porch now according to tracking. Can't beat that speedy Summit service.

So with no backplate, no flywheel. Back in the box it went. On to something else - I'll tackle the oil pan swap!

On to the stand goes the Coyote. One sidebar and another shout out to a cool product. I've never been crazy about the way engine stands attach. I know they are secure enough, but the width and bulk make me nervous about only having 4 bolts on the stand. By accident I came across a billet aluminum plate from ICT Billet made specifically for nervous nancies like me. Apologies for all the name dropping, but I figure someone out there may think the same way. It's a little pricey at $109, but again, when dealing with a motor worth close to $9K, it's cheap insurance. It has two specially milled spacers for the two locations that have the alignment dowel and five others so you get a solid 7 connections to the block. The plate bolts directly to the stand with some beefy hardware. This thing is stout and there's no way it's falling unless a weld breaks.

Here's a pic of the part. The motor is all stripped down for clear coat prep, but its the only one I have at the moment that shows the plate well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156484&d=1637178377

So with the engine on the stand I drained the oil into a new 5 gallon bucket so I can reuse it. After it dripped for a good half hour, I flipped the motor and off comes the plastic oil pan. I've got the Moroso pan and pick up, so this should be straight forward enough. Now for another confession...I had the windage tray/gasket part on my list to buy, but after reading some posts, I kept seeing "just use the old one - it's just fine". So I scratched it off the buy list. I thought, "Hey, I just saved $60". Wrong. All the posts about reusing the old windage tray are motors that have the factory metal oil pan, so basically Gen 1 & Gen 2 versions of the Coyote. Gen 3 has a plastic pan, which has the windage tray and pickup permanently attached, so there's no reusing anything. So now I have the oil pan off, new head bolt with the stud and spacer installed and torqued, and can go no further. So you will see in future pictures what looks like a finished installation of the new oil pan, but it's only hanging there by a few bolts to keep the engine from dripping onto the floor. Got to follow those instructions!! Windage tray and gasket ordered from an online genuine Ford parts outfit (none of the local dealers had one), and it will maybe be here next week. Not holding my breath. Summit doesn't carry it, so I'm stuck with the old and slow method.

Oil into a clean new bucket for use later:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156479&d=1637178354

Engine inverted and sans oil pan. Ignore the rubber gasket in the oil pump pickup - it's gone with the Moroso pick up installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156481&d=1637178354

More to follow...

[Nigel Allen]

Welcome aboard from a fellow electrical contractor.

Cheers,

Nigel

[edwardb]

Thanks for the shoutouts! Glad my meanderings were helpful. Did mention about needing a pan gasket/windage tray piece for the Gen 3 because of the 1-piece OE plastic pan. But hey. There were a lot of words... Crazy shop. Congratulations. I thought mine was pretty OK. But now feeling a little puny. You're making great progress with your build and very nice writeups. You're adding some interesting parts to your Coyote. I looked at pictures of the front runner system you've picked out. At first was a little concerned about clearance for where the alternator ends up. It's further out and lower than the OE alternator. But I think it will fit. Potential interference is the steering column. Looks nice though.

Just a comment regarding the rear cover on the center section. First I totally get it. You want it to look as nice as possible and meeting your expectations. FWIW, it gets pretty buried when the car is on the ground. The chassis mount covers much of the bottom half. The fuel tank covers most of the whole rear view. I've had guys crawling on the ground trying to look at the rear suspension and admit they can't see much. On the lift, up the air, of course much more visible. Again, FWIW. This is the best picture I could find that shows what I'm talking about. Will be cool when your kit arrives. Hopefully the backorder (POL) situation will leave you room to keep making progress.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_3420.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/bb9829e6-c7f8-430e-ac38-96acbdd162f0/p/b73e56c9-9fe9-412f-86f7-8a02eb92a0c4)

[Russwood]

Coyote and Friend Part 3

Almost caught up to the present with these posts. It's actually fun to go back through my pictures and re-live the experiences that get me to today.

So to recap, can't install the flywheel because of the wrong backplate. Can't finish the oil pan swap because I tried to outthink FFR (stupid, I know). What to do...

I moved on to the rest to get ready for the new serpentine system that is due to be here tomorrow. Super excited to see that thing - looks amazing in the photos and videos. I originally planned to paint the engine to something closer to what my frame will be to tie the theme together, which is currently planned to be a metallic graphite silver. But, after I got all the black plastic and other clutter off the thing, the bright shiny aluminum just looks too nice to cover up. I picked up some different colors of engine paint to do some tests on other parts, but I just couldn't get bought in to covering up the aluminum. Finally decided to just clear coat the whole thing and leave it natural. With what I'm putting on the front in that serpentine system and what's on the wish list for machined billet aluminum valve covers, I'm sticking with the bare aluminum look. I'm actually considering some hidden accent lighting for when it's at a show, which should make all that bright aluminum sparkle, but we will see.

After some research, I settled on the same Dupli-Color Ceramic Clear engine paint that I used on the IRS cover. After testing on the back, I was ok with what it did. I guess when aluminum is sandblasted and then coated with clear, it loses its sparkle (see previous post about the IRS center section cover), but if its already bright/shiny, the clear doesn't affect the look, just makes it more shiny. So I taped everything off and put 3 coats of the clear on everything aluminum, and it really looks good (at least to me).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156485&d=1637178377

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156486&d=1637178377

While I watched my Sooners croak at Baylor (and the clear coat flashed off), I started experimenting with painting the plastic valve covers. I don't plan to keep them in the build, but I had some time and all those cans of paint I bought to sample, so one thing led to another. It could have been the paint fumes, but it happened. I started with some VHT paint for plastic that was supposed to mimic raw aluminum. It doesn't. I hated the finished look. So after it dried enough, I went with the Ford red over it. Three light coats and I was ready to call it a day. After flashing and curing some overnight, everything was good enough to reassemble. I read somewhere that this paint needs to actually be cured to work, but the heat cycles of the engine accomplish that. I don't know if that will hold up if the engine doesn't get started for a long time, but its too late now.

I installed the newly painted plastic valve covers stood back to take it in. I'm not in love with the red, but it will do for now. I've emailed the company making the billet covers, MMR, and asked for some photos of the actual product. Currently, they only have a picture of the CAD design, so its not an awesome representation. I do like how the Gen 1 & 2 version looks in the photos they have for that model, so I'm assuming that these will look just as good. They offer several different colors of adonizing, but I'm pretty sure (99%) that I'm going with the bare machined look. If they aren't already coated with a hard clear, I will be doing that. Aluminum is really easy to scratch and then hard to fix, so I think they need something to help with the little bumps and dings that are inevitable.

Anyway, here is the current state of things:

OG black plastic valve covers with all the coils and sensors removed.

Passenger side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156483&d=1637178377

Driver side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156482&d=1637178354


Newly painted red versions, with all the coil packs and sensors reinstalled.

Passenger side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156488&d=1637178398

Driver side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156489&d=1637178398


I guess in retrospect, the red doesn't look that bad. My son-in-law tells me likes the red, but he's only seen it in pictures. One thing for sure, that yellow dipstick will not stand! I ordered what I thought was a chrome replacement, but it's only the ring and actual dipstick, not the dipstick tube. I've turned the internet upside down, and I can't find anything aftermarket to replace the yellow appendage sticking out of the valve cover. My only option may be to paint it and live with it until someone comes out with something better. First world problems, I know.

One other thing off the list was the front coolant plastic tee that sits between the thermostat and water pump. That thing is outta here! Have I mentioned that I loath the black plastic look? Dorman makes a cast aluminum replacement (626-541), and while there's nothing technically wrong with the original, it just comes down to aesthetics for me. Got one from Amazon and three coats of clear later, it's on the thermostat housing. No photo, but you get the idea. I also ordered a billet part from Power By The Hour (part #ACC-1073) that snaps onto the port where the Ford factory top radiator hose connects. This transitions from the o-ring type connection to a standard 1.5" hose connection so I can use a more upgraded stainless braided hose when the time comes. Again, not trying to give free advertising per the forum rules, but the part looks sharp. If you can't find the part I'm talking about, message me and I'll send you the link.

I just realized that I've spent three posts on the engine, and nothing on the friend. If you haven't guessed, that's the Tremec T56 (or Magnum depending on who you are talking to). It's already pretty much good to go, so nothing really to show (and I failed to take any pictures during the process - rookie mistake). I originally planned to paint it like the engine, mostly because the shop that assembled it wrote all over it with paint pens that I had a terrible time getting off. Wound up giving up. Not even lacquer thinner made much difference on them. They are all on what will be the top, so you can't see them once it's installed. The bottom is thankfully clear of graffiti. It also looked really dirty and dingy, but after getting it out of the cardboard crate and blowing it off, it looked better. Guess it was just a lot of dirt & dust from living in a warehouse somewhere. I also scraped some of the gasket maker that had squeezed out and hardened at the seams of the pieces. After that I went over the whole thing with a rag and lacquer thinner, and it looked even better. I know that I want the shifter in a more forward position, so went ahead and flipped it around. Once I get it in the car, if I want to go even farther forward I'll have to get the mid-shifter conversion kit, so not doing anything more with that for now. Since it's dry (no fluid), I mounted it vertically on some blocks of wood and then to a carpet dolly so it's mobile. It also takes up a lot less space like that. Three coats of the same clear as used on the engine, and it's ready to be mounted to the engine when the time comes.

Here's the pair all covered in plastic and staged for their big moment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156490&d=1637178398

Now just need that car...

[Russwood]

Thanks for the shoutouts! Glad my meanderings were helpful. Did mention about needing a pan gasket/windage tray piece for the Gen 3 because of the 1-piece OE plastic pan. But hey. There were a lot of words... Crazy shop. Congratulations. I thought mine was pretty OK. But now feeling a little puny. You're making great progress with your build and very nice writeups. You're adding some interesting parts to your Coyote. I looked at pictures of the front runner system you've picked out. At first was a little concerned about clearance for where the alternator ends up. It's further out and lower than the OE alternator. But I think it will fit. Potential interference is the steering column. Looks nice though.

Just a comment regarding the rear cover on the center section. First I totally get it. You want it to look as nice as possible and meeting your expectations. FWIW, it gets pretty buried when the car is on the ground. The chassis mount covers much of the bottom half. The fuel tank covers most of the whole rear view. I've had guys crawling on the ground trying to look at the rear suspension and admit they can't see much. On the lift, up the air, of course much more visible. Again, FWIW. This is the best picture I could find that shows what I'm talking about. Will be cool when your kit arrives. Hopefully the backorder (POL) situation will leave you room to keep making progress.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_3420.JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/bb9829e6-c7f8-430e-ac38-96acbdd162f0/p/b73e56c9-9fe9-412f-86f7-8a02eb92a0c4)

Great point about the IRS center section. I know I'm overthinking it a LOT, but OCD is real. I'll likely just give it a fresh coat of aluminum paint and move on. Better things to do and all.

Thanks a ton for the good words. I know I read about that windage tray but it got lost in the noise. Not a big setback, just an annoyance.

I've done as much research as I can without the car on whether the CVF front runner system will fit. The dimensions they publish look ok, but you're right about that alternator location. I did read their return policy (twice), and if I don't install anything and/or scratch anything, they will take it back for a full refund. My plan is to carefully and loosely mount the alternator mount bracket and test fit. If the steering column clears, I think I'm in good shape. If not, then back to the drawing board. I'm not running the electric PS, so hoping everything will clear. Not totally in love with using a 1-wire alternator instead of the Boss 302 kit that connects to the harness, but I don't think it's a huge issue. The Cobra doesn't use some of those features anyway (I think). Could be wrong.

Glad you found my build. You are for sure one of the guys that inspired me, so it's cool to have you checking it out.

Full disclosure, I can only take a small bit of credit for that shop. It's technically mom's. But its literally 80ft from my driveway, so it's like it's mine. I like to pretend anyway.

[Russwood]

Welcome aboard from a fellow electrical contractor.

Cheers,

Nigel

Thanks for the welcome! Wow - you are literally on the other side of the world friend! We need to chat about all things 'lectric some day. I used to be a Clipsal dealer when Schneider Electric (Square D) tried to integrate it here in the States, but it really didn't catch on. I know it's big in Australia, or at least used to be.

[Russwood]

Finally to the present day...

So I've posted a lot today, but probably shouldn't have waited this long to get the build thread started. As I go back and read what I've put out there, I want to take a second and make sure everyone knows that I can't take credit for the incredible shop I am blessed to get to work in. That was my dad's final gift to the family, and the entire family uses it. We've done more oil changes, tire rotations, repairs, and just about everything else that could be done over the past several years. I get the most use because of sheer geography. My brother lives about half an hour away, so most of the time it's not worth driving down to do small things, so he only comes down for big things. I live next door, so yeah me!

We've also started to move the blessing out into new and extended family, and I know that Dad would love that even more. Earlier this year we put a Borla Attack exhaust upgrade on my son-in-law's 2019 Mustang GT, and a couple weeks ago we surprised his dad with an upgrade on his Mach 1. Nothing huge - cut out the resonator and put in a Sneeda H-pipe. Sounds much better. I honestly think there may be a bit of a competition between them on who's 'Stang is louder. Just wait until this Cobra bites them!! Muahaha (diabolical laugh)

Back to the matter at hand.

I've caught up on pretty much everything that I've done so far. Been bugging Sally at FFR for a pic when my kit is complete. Guess what I got in my email yesterday...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156438&d=1637163218

It's getting close now!

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard, Russwood. Your shop is A.M.A.Z.I.N.G!! Did I mention it's amazing? Looks like you are off and running, and bring a valuable skillset to the forum. Looking forward to your contributions. Welcome!

[Russwood]

Welcome aboard, Russwood. Your shop is A.M.A.Z.I.N.G!! Did I mention it's amazing? Looks like you are off and running, and bring a valuable skillset to the forum. Looking forward to your contributions. Welcome!

Kind words Chris, and thank you for them. I'm blessed for sure to get to work in Dad's shop. As I've said many times, he would ABSOLUTELY love the project and I wish I hadn't waited so long to move forward. I'm definitely doing this in his memory.

If I read your user name right, then I want to thank you for your service.

[460.465USMC]

If I read your user name right, then I want to thank you for your service.

Thanks, Russ! Yes, I was in the Marines for five years--avionics repair. When I joined the forum I quickly created a user name, not giving much thought to where all this would lead--that I would order a kit, write a build thread, and that my user name would appear every time I comment. Though I am very thankful and proud of my Marine heritage, there are so many in the armed forces who sacrificed far, far more than me, and who really deserve our gratitude. I am thankful for good folks--like you--who appreciate and support our military service members!

I'm looking forward to your next build update. I sense a good amount of creativity coming in your build. Thanks for sharing.

[Fman]

Subscribed. Killer shop, seriously completely B.A. and I think that lift will be able to handle the Cobra :cool: That lift is going to make your build so much more enjoyable and easier. Nice build plan, looking forward to watching you on your journey!

[Russwood]

More Engine Work

So back at it this weekend - running out of stuff to do before the kit arrives. Still haven't heard from Stewart Transport, but I fully expected nothing to happen until after Thanksgiving. My short list is to install the flywheel, install the front pulley system, build the body buck, and finish the frame cart. I'll post those mini-projects on their own as I'm able.

In an earlier update, I mentioned how the Quicktime bellhousing backplate was shipped wrong. The replacement arrived and everything is right, so I can proceed with the installation of the flywheel. I want to get this on so I can use it to help lock the crank during the installation of the front pulley system since the balancer bolt has to be changed to a longer one.

The flywheel went on without drama (this time), so I applied the thread locker and snugged it up:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156704&d=1637602050

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156705&d=1637602050

I stuck the bellhousing on just temporarily so I can use a flywheel holding tool to torque the flywheel and remove/replace the balancer:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156707&d=1637602050

Here's the flywheel holding tool - got it from ICT Billet. This is pretty handy for us solo working guys. It bolts up where the starter goes and came with the hardware needed. I've seen these in service bulletins for previous projects, but never actually got one. I know the old pry bar trick works, but this frees up both hands using the torque wrench which is a safer method.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156699&d=1637602005

View from inside the bellhousing at the tooth engagement:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156706&d=1637602050

Next up is the front pulley system install.

[Russwood]

Serpentine Pulley System

I mentioned in my build plan that I plan to use a single belt serpentine system from CVF Racing. I spent a lot of time considering this, and looked at systems from every maker I could find that offers something for the Coyote. There are definitely cheaper ways to do this, but one of my intentions is to show this car, so this is a good way to add some jewelry along with the accessories I need.

I chose the CVF Racing version over the March Performance for a couple reasons, mostly aesthetics. Both were similarly priced and offered the same options for accessories. CVF is a single belt version with a pulley added to the front of the balancer where the March Performance version is a two-belt system with no balancer pulley. They both add about the same depth to the front of the engine. In the end, I prefer the single belt system and personally liked the look of the CVF pulleys and pulley covers over the March. I have friends who recommended the March, so I know it's a solid system.

After making that decision, I reached out to the manufacturer to verify its fitment for the Gen 3. They don't right out say it doesn't fit the Gen 3, but do say it needs a 4-bolt water pump pulley and a 2017 or older balancer. That means Gen 1 or 2. However, since Ford went back to a two-piece balancer over the original fluid version, I felt good that it would work on the Gen 3. The two-piece is essentially the Gen 2 balancer. The only issue left in my mind, apart from the system's width (which may bite me later if the alternator conflicts with the steering shaft - fingers crossed EdwardB), was the water pump. Ford changed the water pump sometime during the Gen 2's run from a 4-bolt to a 3-bolt pulley, and carried that into the Gen 3's design. I initially considered making an adapter since I have to space the water pump pulley out (see below on why), but after studying what it would require a lot closer, including making some cardboard templates to experiment with, and then consulting with my buddy at work who runs our field crews (he's the best mechanic I've ever known, and that's saying a lot), he suggested just changing the water pump. Well duh, why didn't I think of that? Did a little research and it looks like the two are interchangeable, at least from pictures. I found one for $60 on RockAuto and placed the order. Since these use O-rings instead of gaskets or silicone to seal to the block, it's pretty easy to swap out to make sure. If it's wrong, then back it goes and I'm back to square one. I'll know more later this week when it shows up. Fingers crossed. Last issue would be the steering shaft vs. the alternator, but if there's a conflict, I'll either modify the steering shaft with some knuckles or figure out a modification on the alternator location.

The kit arrived on Thursday, and like Christmas morning, of course I had to open it. Everything is machined from solid billet aluminum, so no cast parts. Very solid and the finish is beautiful. I got the option for the ceramic clear coat finish, so they should stay bright for a long time.

The first order was to install the balancer spacer. It came with a longer crankshaft bolt, but the instructions clearly say this is for an LS balancer. My buddy, who's a big LS guy, says the Ford Coyote balancer looks just like the LS style, so that made sense. The only issue was the shoulder on the CVF part was a little bigger than the balancer pocket, but a few minutes with a file and it fit perfectly. The LS balancer pocket is probably a few thousands bigger.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156701&d=1637602005

After I bolted the spacer in, I noticed that it doesn't come all the way to the front of the balancer. This tells me that the Gen 3 balancer is about .28" thicker than the Gen 2. I went ahead and bolted the pulley on, but it's pretty obvious that I need to do something to make this stronger than just bolts. After some test fitting and studying, I determined that everything needs to be moved out about .35". For the balancer, I'll have to machine a piece of aluminum to bring the front out flush so the pulley sits as it was intended.

Here's the two brackets mocked up:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156702&d=1637602005

Power steering pump, AC delete pulley, and idlers added:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156703&d=1637602005

Chrome alternator, tensioner, and all the pulley covers bolted up for a final measuring. Looks pretty nice:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156697&d=1637601993

The water pump pulley is missing from this view - I've got it on the bench to work out the spacer/adapter.

Last - a side view of the chrome alternator. Notice how close it is to the oil filter - just enough.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156696&d=1637601993

It's a little funny to me that both the power steering pump and the alternator are GM models, but it should all work. I'll have to make a slight mod to the alternator wiring since the Ford factory plug obviously won't work, but there's lots of stuff out there showing what I'll need to do. The kit came with a billet aluminum remote power steering reservoir, so with custom hoses I'll be able to plumb it all up. The only other issue may be the pressures, so I'll likely have to change the valve to work with the Ford rack, but again, lots of previous builds to steal modifications from.

After I took a couple dozen measurements, I think I have a plan on what spacers & custom parts I need. I won't go into the weeds now until I get it figured out and made. I'll update down the road once I have some pictures to share.

Here's a view from the top showing the difference that I need to correct. The water pump pulley is the top one in the center of the photo - I've just got it on there with one bolt to check the spacing. I used a 2' level as a straight edge to verify everything is aligned and to determine the distance to move out. You can see the balancer pulley is the one sticking out the most:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156694&d=1637601993

This "problem" is a perfect excuse to finally buy a mini-lathe. I've ran into several instances where I wished I had one, but with the real possibility of having to experiment with different shapes & thicknesses, this is the time. I could go to a machine shop and try to explain what I need, then likely have to go back one or more times to tweak the design. With this prototype approach, it just made sense to do it myself. After some research on the myriad of different models, I pulled the trigger on a 7" x 14" version. Went with a middle of the road unit from Amazon, just a little step up from the Harbor Freight version. Ordered a tail stock chuck and some C2 and C6 carbide cutters so I can do both soft and harder metals, and will see how things go. Placed an order with McMaster for some 6061 aluminum billet discs to machine the pulley spacers and some solid 3/4" diameter 6061 rod to make the bolt spacers. Once everything is cut, I'll see what bolts need to be replaced with longer versions and get those ordered.

With Thanksgiving this week and no car yet, I should be able to finish my to-do list over the long weekend. The oil pan gasket is tracking to arrive today, and I need to build the body buck and finish my frame cart. I'll share my finished work with some photos this weekend.

Hope everyone has a safe and blessed holiday. God bless!

[Russwood]

Delivery Day!!

The day has finally arrived. The wait is the worst. I've read on so many threads how it's like Christmas morning as a kid, but to be honest, I don't know if that's even close.

I want to give a huge "atta-boy" to Stewart Transportation. They told me they were picking up on Monday and would be in Oklahoma on Saturday morning, and the driver hit the target time on the dot. He hit some crummy weather on his northern leg (I know - it's wintertime, what do you expect?) so there was concern he might be a couple days late, but the driver called me on Friday evening and said he'd be at my place between 8 and 8:30 Saturday morning. Truck pulled up at 8:10. Can't beat that!

My buddy from work came by with his son to help us with the unload - we had a pretty long and steep driveway to navigate to get to the shop, but we were unloaded and he was on his way in under 30 mins or so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158900&d=1640031733

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158901&d=1640031733

With the help I had, we got the body off the frame and onto the body buck. Marked and removed all the aluminum panels so the frame is ready to start assembly. My frame cart fit perfectly, so I'm really pleased with that. It will make maneuvering the car so much easier, especially when it goes to powdercoat. My build plan is to assemble all the major components, install the body panels with clecos, and get everything fitted/drilled/welded/etc., then tear it all down and paint/powdercoat everything. I'll also take the time after tear-down to grind/wire-brush the frame to it's got a nice foundation for the coatings. They media blast everything before coating to prep the metal, so I'm not too worried about surface rust during the first assembly. The plan is to powdercoat all the underside items (frame, suspension parts, etc.) with a high gloss metallic graphite color similar to the 20th Anniversary cars only darker, so the pre-finished control arms, adjusters, etc. that FFR powdercoated flat black will get re-done. I'm not greasing anything during the first build, so those parts will be easier to prep. Since one of the goals is a show-quality build, I'm being sort of picky on the finishes. I'm still debating the engine/trans colors, but right now they are staying clear-coated. By doing it this way, I can go through and mark all the parts that are visible as to what gets painted, what gets PC'd, and what might get either chromed or polished. It will also help me visualize what doesn't need to be coated, like areas that will get covered in heat shielding or sound dampening. In my mind it's like a pencil sketch before the color goes on. I know it's more work this way, but it also allows me to make any modifications or changes before finished coatings, which should reduce or remove any re-coating or damage to the finishes. If it fit once, it should (in theory) fit the second time. I know holes will need to be chased, but that's easy and minor compared to stressing about scratching an expensive powdercoat job.

I did a close inspection of the frame fit and welds, and everything looks pretty good. Some of the welds weren't the best, but all the ones in the critical load bearing areas look really good. The ones I don't like are in places where strength isn't important, so I'm not concerned. I may do some touch-up on a few to get a little better looking result, but it's more of a picky thing and not a safety issue at all. It's pretty clear that by not paying for the pre-finished frame, I also didn't get the clean-up that gets done prior to coating so there's a lot of grease, spatter, and really sharp points/edges from grinding that I will address before getting too deep in the assembly. A couple of them would leave a pretty nasty scar if not addressed now. There are also some places that will get a foam pool noodle stuck on to keep me from getting hurt - mostly the front bumper mounts. There's nothing worse than walking past and banging into them - the steel is pretty unforgiving to human flesh :p.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158902&d=1640031733

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158903&d=1640031733

But before we can build, we must inventory.

The POL wasn't too bad all things considered with the supply shortages. I was prepared for a huge list after reading posts on this forum and watching the Facebook Live videos from Dave Smith - so many discussions about waiting on parts. But only two pages, and since the kit was completed back on 11/20/21 and wasn't picked up by Stewart Transportation until 12/13/21, a lot of the parts were already marked off. The major items I expected to be missing - windshield, shocks, bushings for control arms, front spindles, and front hubs were all there, so I was pleasantly surprised.

But (there's always a but), there are a few that I didn't expect to be missing that didn't make it, and they are killers. First were the bushings & pivot sleeves for the upper (rearward) IRS center section mounts, so I can't install that. No idea when they will be here, so I measured the frame tubes that they go into and ordered some from an online source. They may be a little long and a little big (probably less than .050), but that's easily fixed with some sanding. If nothing else, they can work as stand-ins until the correct ones get here from FFR. Also missing is the power steering rack and tie rod ends, so even though I can assemble most of front corners since I got the control arms, shocks, spindles, and hubs, I won't be able to do the initial alignment, so I'm at the mercy of FFR on that one. I could try to order one from another source, but I'm not sure I want to risk getting the wrong one, so I'll wait for the one from FFR.

The other major items I'm short are:

Radiator
Coolant overflow tank (not a big deal - I'm using the Moroso aluminum one anyway)
Silicone elbow for the Coyote intake
Vintage Gauges
Short shifter
All of the aluminum panels that are boxed together (Box #6 didn't make the truck for some reason)
Fuel pressure gauge
Various fittings
Steering wheel center boss & center section
Door latches
Hood and trunk gas struts
Wilwood front and rear brakes - I expected this since they ship directly from Wilwood


The last item to gripe about that is missing is the entire Coyote engine and transmission mount kit. It's on my order, but wasn't packed in any of the boxes, doesn't show up on the POL, and there wasn't a packing list for that option in the packet. I suspect that it's just an oversight on someone's part since it's completely missing, but without it my major mockup activity of the engine/trans is dead in the water. I noticed someone in another thread posted a link to their packing list (I believe it was on a 20th Anniversary build), and the #15440 Coyote engine/trans mount kit is shown to be packed in box 18. I got box 18, but nada. That one is the most frustrating item I'm missing. FFR's website says that no parts are being shipped this week (at least on the online parts store), so I don't think I'm going to see it anytime soon. I emailed FFR with my handful of inventory issues (missing a battery cable, the 7/8" jam nuts for the rear alignment adjusters, and the fuel level sending unit) and highlighted the missing engine mount kit. I've taken some vacation time for next week between Christmas and New Years and planned to get a lot accomplished, but without the engine mounts, I'm probably not going to get as much done as I hoped.

It is what it is. I've seen folks on here with much bigger lists of critical items, so I'll count my blessings and just roll with it.

So after all the inventorying and digging through boxes, my OCD kicked in and I had to get organized. So off to the store for some new plastic bins. Spent a few hours Sunday afternoon organizing the parts into groups, labeled the bags of parts with what system they belong to, and sorted everything into the bins. I've read others have done it this way, and it makes sense to me to do it this way as well. I could have used the cardboard boxes I suppose, but what I learned is that there is a lot of empty space in those boxes for packing padding, so by sorting and consolidating into the bins, the amount of space taken up by the parts is significantly less. The clear bins also make it easy to see what's inside, so even if it's not marked on the outside, it makes searches a little quicker. I'll use the bins when I disassemble to pack the parts in to send to powdercoat so they stay somewhat organized. Whether the coating outfit puts them back organized is another whole thing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158904&d=1640031733

The boxes with the windshield, seats, dash, and carpet all go up to the loft so they are out of the way until needed. It sure is nice having that luxury (not-so-humble brag). I'm probably going to add some boards to the bottom of the body buck to make some shelves to stack the doors, truck lid, and sheet metal panels so they are close at hand but not in danger of being damaged. Keeping them all together seems logical to me. Being such odd shapes, they look like they'd be perfect under the body and not taking up a ton of room on the parts shelves.

And so the odyssey begins...

[Nigel Allen]

G'day Russ,

good to see you back again. You mentioned about banging your legs on the front bumper mounts. I screwed a piece of wood between the two mounts. This protected me and also the radiator. A fellow builder here in Oz crunched his radiator when moving his partially completed car around. Doesen't look so 'race car' with a wooden bumper, but is effective. While you have the grinder out, remove those two mounting points for the radiator and instead mount the upper section of the radiator with SS piano hinge.

Merry Christmas!

[Russwood]

Good suggestions Nigel. I'm seriously considering the Breeze lower radiator support to rest it on, but will for sure take a closer look at the hinge approach. I like the idea of a brace on the bumper horns during assembly - will for sure be doing that.

Have a great Christmas down under!

[Russwood]

Rear Suspension

So given the critical missing parts, I chose to start on the rear suspension. The only parts I'm missing are the IRS center section rear mounting bushings, but I found a set with the pivot sleeves from an online source in Texas, and they will be here in a couple of days. So while I wait for those, I hung the upper and lower control arms along with the toe adjuster bars, then trimmed the spindles and mounted those. I did grind the cut portion flat and then smoothed it out with a die grinder and stages of finer grit discs until it was a nice shine instead of the nasty looking band saw marks. I saw others do that on other posts but would probably have done it anyway since it just makes for a much nicer finished product.

I did cheat a little and used the press at work to swap out the rear wheel studs. The lug nut method works fine, but the press made it super easy and quick. It sure is nice having access to some of those types of tools when you need them. Picked up some cheap lug nuts from a local auto parts store - mostly just to help protect the stud threads during assembly.

Not much to get too excited about yet, but here's a couple shots of the two sides:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158976&d=1640096102

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158978&d=1640096136

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158977&d=1640096111


I realized that I didn't share a pic of the frame cart that I made, so here's one:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=158979&d=1640097167

The metal is all repurposed from leftovers from other projects, and the casters were an Amazon deal. I know wood is easier to build with, but I like how solid this is (it was also an excuse to practice my welding), and it will be strong enough to support the finished car should the need arise. I glued some squares of indoor/outdoor carpet that I had in the loft into the angle pieces on top, and it makes a nice, cushioned cradle. That should help keep the coated frame from getting scratched down the road. The center bar is also in a perfect position to help me set the motor/trans if I have to do it alone since I can put a little trolley on it to guide the trans tail as it lowers into place. That's my plan anyway, so it may not work as well in practice as it does in my head, but I'm going to try it anyway when the time comes - just need to sort out how the trolley needs to be configured.

Probably nothing more this week to work on, but plan to get back on it this weekend and have all next week off work, so I hope to make some good progress.

Hope everyone has a great Christmas!

[Kmcallahan]

It's killing me for sure. My wife has already started referring to herself as the "project widow".

When I head to the garage, my wife asks me if I am going toe the mistress for a ride!

[Straversi]

It’s been said before but, wow! Shop envy for sure. Enjoy the build and thanks for posting your progress.
-Steve.

[Russwood]

Thanks Steve. All the credit to my late father. I enjoy the journaling I suppose. I tell myself I'm doing this to give my kids something to remember me by, besides the car as an heirloom!

[Russwood]

So true Kmcallahan. She smiles when she says it, but I suspect there's a little bit of jealousy in there.

[Blitzboy54]

That is honestly one of the prettiest Coyote engines I've ever seen on here. It looks great!!!!

[Russwood]

That is honestly one of the prettiest Coyote engines I've ever seen on here. It looks great!!!!

You are too kind. Glad you like it. Hope I can keep the quality at this level, but I've got a long way to go!

[Russwood]

IRS & Rear End Mockup

Back at it. Have got the next week+ off work, so in between the holiday gatherings, I hope to make some good progress.

I got the IRS center section in place after several different attempts to rig it with my hoist - the balance isn't great on this thing and as it's been covered by other build threads, it's a dance of angles and contortions to get it up and in place. The trick is to get the nose as high up as possible and then alternate between lifting the entire thing and slightly lowering the pinion end until it's above the mounts and level. After a couple of failed attempts, I found the right place to attach the brackets so they didn't get in the way. With that and some multiple different placements of some straps to help with the pinion end's angle, I got it into position. It would have been a lot easier without the sheet of steel above it that is part of the trunk deck, but I'm sure most lift from below instead of from above. These were for sure some valuable practice runs - this will be super critical to perfect when it's time to do the final assembly to keep from damaging those expensive finishes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159234&d=1640535769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159235&d=1640535769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159238&d=1640535769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159237&d=1640535769

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159239&d=1640535799

After tightening things up snug (not torquing anything until final assembly), I got the CV axles installed. These would be a lot easier before the spindles (obviously), but because I was missing the IRS top mount bushings until a couple days ago and I was chomping at the bit to start something, I got the cart in front of the horse a bit. Not a huge deal in reality though, just needed to take the toe adjuster loose and then drop the assembly by taking the bottom shock mount loose. After that, there's just enough room to get the hub end in after seating the axle into the center section.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159241&d=1640535799

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159240&d=1640535799

Snugged up the hub nuts and then dropped the frame back onto the cart so I could turn it around to mock up the engine/trans next.

[Russwood]

Engine/Transmission Mockup

Frame with the rear end installed down on the frame cart - ready for the engine & transmission.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159242&d=1640535799

I put the bellhousing on the engine, but no clutch yet. No reason to do that until final assembly, so just line up and bolt the transmission to the bellhousing. It took some doing to find the right hole in the lifting plate to balance it right, but got it right eventually.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159243&d=1640535799

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159244&d=1640535838

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159245&d=1640535838

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159246&d=1640535838

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159247&d=1640535838

This took a couple different steps between lowering the engine/trans, then pushing the trans tail down, then pulling the frame forward. Sort of like using an engine hoist but in reverse since the crane/hoist are stationary (actually could be moved but it takes a couple people). This worked pretty well by myself, which surprised me. I thought it would for sure take a helper, but it went pretty easily. I wound up taking the shifter off since it's probably going to have to move forward to the mid-shifter location. The shifter kept getting caught on the tunnel top framing, so I removed it and taped over the opening for now. This is the Tremec T-56 Magnum, so it's pretty long, but it fits really well, and the transmission A-frame mount works perfectly. I have read others have experienced some issues with it fitting, but so far, the only issue I have is the driveshaft length - which I'll cover in the next post.

Here it all is sitting in position, with the motor mounts fully seated in the frame mounts. One thing that I didn't want to risk was the serpentine pulley system getting damaged during install, so I pulled it all off until the engine is in place. After this first practice run, it's a good thing I did, because the crank pulley just does clear the front X of the frame, so the pulley system would have been in the way. There's room to install after the engine is installed, so that's the sequence I'll follow during final assembly for sure.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159249&d=1640535852

I did learn that once the engine/trans is in place, the bottom of the bellhousing hits on the frame cart, so the transmission tail is up off the rear frame. I had to pick the car up with the lift to get the transmission down into position, so I'll need to rig up a spacer for the cart to raise it up a little. That was something I was unsure about when I built it, but now I know...

[Russwood]

Driveshaft Issue

After the engine & transmission install, I wanted to go ahead and install the drive shaft to make sure everything lines up right and also to learn how to get it in place. I've read that there's a sweet spot to doing this after the transmission is in place, but after a look at the tail vs. the pinion flange, there's no way this is fitting.

I did install the transmission mount A-frame, install the spacer/adapter onto the transmission polyurethane mount, and dry fit everything. Can't find the 3/4" spacers that the manual shows to go on the bolts between the adapter to the transmission, but will dig out the inventory sheets and look for the part number - it's probably in a bag somewhere. I've also got a shortage of the larger bolts that attach the A-frame to the chassis, or I'm missing the transmission mount bolts. Probably the latter and I'll find them with the spacers somewhere, LOL.

I installed the pinion flange adapter but had to grind the edges of the socket head bolts down a little - they must have been deformed during manufacturing because they wouldn't fit into the recesses, but it didn't take much. Since these are just zinc coated, now that I've ground off the finish, they will want to rust, so I'll order some stainless replacements for final assembly.

Next comes the drive shaft, and where the issue occurs. Now that both the transmission and pinion flange are in place, the space between them is only a little over 9". The driveshaft from flange to flange is 9-3/4". I went to the box and the part number is #60375, which is the 9.75" for the Coupe. That seemed odd, so I checked the inventory sheets, and I was supposed to have gotten the #60175, which is the 10.5". That would have been a bigger problem than I already have. I'm really not sure how I missed that when I did the inventory, but probably saw drive shaft, had a drive shaft, and stopped looking. Stupid mistake. Regardless, neither would work. I think what I need is the #16038 - 31 Spline Roadster 8.375" version.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159233&d=1640535590

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159231&d=1640535590

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159232&d=1640535590

I was curious why my inventory showed a driveshaft that wouldn't work to start with, and I've noticed that the kit configuration on the website lists an option for the Coyote with a TKO, but no T-56/Magnum, so as I learned that the TKO is shorter than the T-56, it makes sense that the one that would by default come with the TKO configuration would be too long. I thought I communicated my transmission as a T-56 when I confirmed my order, but that was many months ago, so I'm hoping that I won't have trouble getting them to swap me out.

If FFR is listening, and the 8.375" driveshaft is the right one, please update your configuration to list the 5.0 Coyote with the T-56 (Magnum) for the #16038 so the next guy/gal doesn't have the same lesson to learn. If it's not the right one, or can't be made to work, I guess my only solution will be a custom made one. Man, I hope that's not the case.

I'll place a call tomorrow to FFR to check on the email I sent last week regarding the POL and inventory incorrect items and dig into this issue with them. Hopefully, they have one in stock, but the parts website says they don't. If not, it won't kill me since this is all coming back apart, so there's nothing stopping me from proceeding without a driveshaft in place. At least until it's time to tear down and paint since I want the driveshaft to match the other underside parts.

So, that's all for now. I'll lower the car and see what I can do with the front suspension, and then on to the foot box & fuel tank so I can start running the hard lines for fuel and brakes now that the big parts are in place.

[edwardb]

Nice progress. Couple of quick comments. You mention using SS bolts for the pinion flange adapter? Unless you're planning something exotic with SS, wouldn't recommend that. The kit comes with metric class 12.9 alloy steel bolts. Typically SS isn't near that strength, and the driveshaft isn't a place to be using something less. I personally haven't had to do anything to the hardware they provided. But if you ground the plating off of it, maybe just shoot it with some clear and you could still use. I understand you don't want it rusting or corroding.

As far as your driveshaft, hopefully you can work something out there. Officially, a T-56 isn't a supported transmission for the Roadster. So there's no entry for it on the order form. Guys obviously are installing them in the IRS setup with some minor mods. Not surprised the #60375 Coupe driveshaft you received won't fit. The Coupe has a longer wheelbase and more space. I used that one on on my Gen 3 Coupe with a Coyote and T-56 and it fit perfectly. But that doesn't help you of course.

Finally, you mention removing the shifter on the trans during installation. That's something I always recommend. It almost always gets in the way.

[Russwood]

That's a good point - hadn't thought of the bolts they sent being stronger than SS. I didn't have to take much off, but they were probably about .010 to tight going into the recess and there was no way they would tighten, and if they did, they'd never come back out nicely. It seemed easier to grind the heads some than enlarge the recess. I'll get some replacements from McMaster and stay in the 12.9 alloy you mention instead of SS. Thanks for catching that.

I suspected long ago that the shifter would be an issue, and I'm not a big fan of the bent shifter handle either, so moving it forward was likely happening no matter what. Just got too anxious to set the motor that I didn't stop long enough to think about removing the shifter before plunging in. Excitement won.

On the driveshaft, if FFR gives me any grief, it's probably cheaper to just buy the shorter one than having this one modified, but I don't know that for sure. I've got a call in, hopefully they will just swap it out. I'm 99% sure the 8-3/8" long unit will work. It looks like that will give the perfect length of slip yoke to move after install. Right now, there's about 9-1/4" of distance between the face of the trans tail and the pinion flange, so once installed, it should leave about 3/4"-7/8" of exposed slip yoke. Will see what they say.

I really appreciate your comments. This forum is so helpful and all you guys that have been down this road are such a huge resource. Please keep the advice coming.

[Duke]

Not sure if this is helpful or not, as I did a Gen2/T56 Mag:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?20496-Introducing-the-worlds-shortest-driveshaft!&highlight=worlds+shortest+driveshaft

I had to install the drive shaft as the transmission/motor went in. I'm not sure if the Gen3 sits forward on the frame or not making it a little longer.

[Joe Campbell]

Awesome build and shop! I'd recommend you put some kind of bright reminder tag on the diff and anything else you intend to fill with fluid later. Very easy when you get to the excitement of the first start and gocarting to forget what you have or haven't. Burned up a perfectly good center section that way, and on another build forgot I didn't have the fill plug in and left a trail of transmission fluid around the block. :D

[CraigS]

At least check w/ a local drive shaft shop. When I did my IRS retrofit, I needed a shorter shaft w/ a different end to match the IRS bolt pattern. A local shop shortened it and installed the new flange for just under $100. While I was talking with them it became obvious that what seemed maybe a bit complicated to me was simple daily work for them.

[Russwood]

Great advice from all. I hadn't considered the tag idea, but it makes perfect sense. Thanks for that Joe! Everything is coming back off the car before everything gets painted/coated, so that's the time to do it for sure.

Someday, hopefully soon, I'll get a reply from FFR on my missing/wrong parts and I'll find out if the driveshaft I think I need will work for my build. If it won't, I'll find a shaft shop locally and see what they can do for me. It's been total radio silence for the past 2+ weeks from FFR, so I'm wondering if they closed for the holidays or are just too backlogged to call or email me back. I'll keep bugging them though.

Apologies for no updates lately - been making good progress, and have pretty much hit a wall until some of the missing parts arrive, but I'll get my pics together and get a couple big updates posted this week. Now that I had to return to work (can't stay on vacation forever I suppose), my daytime is full, but I should be able to get something out one evening this week. Without the parts, I'm down to fitting and drilling the aluminum panels that I have. I've also started a mod to the trunk area for more space and a hidden battery compartment, so there's lots to cover there. Have ordered some .04" aluminum to make my custom panels, so I should be able to get those pretty much done this coming weekend. Apart from that, it's become a waiting game.

Hope all had a great Christmas and New Years!

[Russwood]

Front Suspension

I've took the week between Christmas and New Years off work, so the plan was to get as much assembled as time allowed. With so many critical parts missing, the next few updates will jump around some since so far there's been no system that I can actually take to full completion. It's frustrating for sure, but not much I can do about it.

So I left off with the motor and transmission set in place, and the driveshaft being too long. No update on that front - still haven't heard back from FFR. Nothing. Zip. Nada.

I do have front suspension parts, so on with the build!

I've read that some have had trouble with the upper ball joints and some have even gone to a different part altogether to remedy this. I started to install the upper ball joints by following the instructions, less the thread locker since I'm taking everything apart to paint. It didn't take long to realize that these ball joints were not going to thread in nicely at all. I assume that's why some have gone to a different part, but for the sake of the budget, I was determined to try to make these work. After some studying them, it seemed like the issue may just be the extreme level of powder coating on the FFR part as with the ball joint itself. So with a radial wire brush in the drill, I got all the coating off the inside of the control arm and the threads of the ball joint. After that, it threaded nearly all the way by hand, so I assume that when I do final assembly, the same approach should work (only taking off the coatings at the threads) and the thread locking compound should help with any corrosion that may happen on the ball joint side (the control arm looks to be aluminum, so no worry there). I did scratch the control arm some at the ball joint socket, but since these are getting new coatings, I wasn't too worried. When final assembly happens, these will get some protective tape to keep them scratch free during cleaning of the threads.

Here's an example of the ball joint socket and ball joint after cleaning off the coatings along with the radial wire brush:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159624&d=1641255838

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159625&d=1641255838

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159626&d=1641255838

After getting the ball joints installed, I went to set the initial rough geometry of the upper arm per the dimensions provided in the manual. As it's been documented in other discussions, the rearward adjustment is too long if running power steering, so per the suggestions I've read, I cut about 1/4" off each end of the coupling and the rod ends. After cleaning the threads up, I reassembled the upper arms and get them hung along with the lower arms. I highly recommend the allthread or bolt approach to spreading out the tabs - it makes the install so much more enjoyable.

Right side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159627&d=1641255838

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159628&d=1641255838

Left side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159629&d=1641255914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159630&d=1641255914

[Russwood]

Front Suspension (cont.)

Next was the spindles. Nothing unique on these, they went on pretty straight forward. I am a little curious about the connection to the upper ball joint. It looks like the hole for the cotter pin will be above the castle nut when torqued. The bottom gets a spacer to correct this situation, but nothing is provided or mentioned for the upper. I've just got them hand tight with a gear wrench for now, so the position will be even more dramatic when the torque wrench does its job. I may add a washer or thin spacer during final assembly to make sure there's enough bite for the cotter pin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159631&d=1641255914

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159632&d=1641255914

I bolted up the steering arms, but didn't get any pics. Again, nothing much to show anyway.

I don't have the hub nuts, dust covers, or steering rack, so this is pretty much all I can do on suspension until some parts arrive. Also don't have the rod ends for the sway bars, so those won't get installed at this point either.

[Russwood]

Removable Steering Wheel

After the front suspension assembly, I started on the steering and pedals. Started by setting & drilling the firewall, but the plan is to replace this with one I'll cut from .09" thick aluminum using this one as a template. It's held in place with Cleco fasteners for now, and after all the fabrication is done, and I'm sure I've moved some or all of the stuff on the firewall around a few times, I'll take it and use it as a template for the thicker version. I could order one from FFMetal.com, but I have some material, so I'll save a few $$.

Set the firewall and footbox front panel:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159633&d=1641255914

Next to the pedals, master cylinders, etc. for the DS foot box. And didn't take a single picture of that process. Some photo-documentation fail, huh?

Anyway...

Pretty typical initial install of the Wilwood pedal box. I'm pretty sure I'm going to experiment with moving these forward but won't make any cuts or final decisions until I can verify the proper pedal travel can be maintained and may not be able to do that until I bleed the brakes and clutch TOB, so will just hold off. Any cuts/welds to do this would be hidden behind the aluminum panels, so I can do that even during final assembly if necessary. I won't set the reservoirs or do any of the plumbing on the low-pressure side until the body goes on to fit & gap the doors, hood, and trunk lid so I can pick a spot that has good access but not in conflict with anything. I've seen them on the left side rail and on the firewall, so I'm not set on any location quite yet.

Without the U-joint between the upper and lower steering shafts, and no steering rack to attach to (more missing parts), I shifted to fabricating the removable steering wheel. I ordered the kit from Mark @ Breeze Automotive, and I'm really impressed by the quality. Really good outfit that he's running. Mark even includes a new bit and tap to use to drill & tap the billet piece to make it a perfect fit to the FFR steering wheel. It did take me a minute and several read throughs of the instructions to get it clear in my head (some pictures would have helped, but that's likely just my inexperience with these), but did come to understand the process of getting the steering wheel perfectly centered on the shaft and all the run-out gone. One suggestion, at least from my experience, is to use some good grease when doing the centering since you have to rotate the aluminum billet section on the upper steering shaft, and the close fit makes the aluminum part start to seize some. Since I didn't use any grease, by the time I had the steering wheel centered and marked, I couldn't get the aluminum section to come off the steel shaft. I didn't want to use any force or hammering, so I put it in the freezer for 15 or 20 minutes and it came right off. The aluminum contracts more than the steel when cooled, so that created the necessary space to get the parts separated. It's a neat trick for bearings, so I figured it might work here, and sure enough, it did.

Mark's instructions do tell you to cut the shaft off some if your shaft is tapered at the end to keep the spline part centered. My shaft is tapered, but I'm working on some modifications to lengthen the distance between the pedals and the seat so my taller frame fits the car better, so I was reluctant to lose any length on the steering shaft. If I need to shorten it, I can do that on the middle hollow shaft section, but I don't expect that will be necessary. My solution to the centering issue was to use several layers of tape below the spline piece to make a sort of shoulder that helped hold the spline where it needs to be, and after small adjustments to get it right, I put a couple tack welds to lock it into position. Before I fully welded the top part, I removed the tape and welded the bottom of the spline to the shaft. I could have probably stopped there, but I wanted the spline & shaft to look nice when the wheel is removed, so I puddle-welded the top to completely fill the cup. I welded it a little proud, and then ground it down to a snug fit and then polished it smooth. I plan to chrome the steering shaft, so this will be a nice, finished piece at each end when completed.

Full disclosure, this process took me a while, and in my hyper-focus, I forgot to take any progress pics during the work. I promise I'll do better. It was one of those days I guess.

The shaft before welding with the tape shoulder:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159637&d=1641255984

And with the spline in position:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159638&d=1641255984

And no pics of the welds (stupid!).

Here's the upper shaft in place in the pillow bearing:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159639&d=1641256038

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159640&d=1641256038

And with the hub, billet section, and steering wheel attached:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159641&d=1641256038

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159642&d=1641256038

[egchewy79]

looks good. you're making short work of this considering you just received the kit 2 weeks ago.
FWIW, you might find it difficult to transfer your rivet holes from the thinner to the thicker firewall. very slight differences in hole location will make everything else misalign. you may need to drill all new holes once you get your new firewall or open up the transferred holes with a larger bit.

[Russwood]

Kit Number #10204

Every once in a while, I have these "Aha!" moments, and then after the joy of the epiphytal moment fades, I wonder how I'm able to tie my shoes.

My kit number is one of those moments. I emailed FFR some many weeks ago (before the kit shipped) when I started this thread to see if they knew the kit number. I like how many builds are identified by the kit number, so I wanted to include that in my signature line. They told me that they wouldn't have that number until the kit shipped and they then created the MCO and ID plate and that those would be mailed later. With that news, I resigned to leave my signature with the "TBD" until I got those documents.

Then, while fabricating the removable steering wheel, I noticed the engraved number on the frame right beside the steering wheel mount. I knew it would be somewhere on the frame, and even remember reading on this forum where it was and how to determine the kit number from the serial #. But I never looked for it. Now that I noticed it, it's hard to not see it every time I'm working in that area. I'll blame it on the excitement of the kit arrival and my eagerness to bolt stuff together.

Anyway, in case some newbie like me does a Google search, the kit number is the last 5 numbers before "RD" in the serial number. The last two letters are different for different kit types, but the serial number, as best I can tell from research, is pretty much consistent at this point. I know there were several different versions of how FFR did these in the past, but it seems fairly consistent now.

There's the number just to the left of the steering wheel - bright and shiny!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159642&d=1641256038

And a close-up for those interested:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159645&d=1641256073

My frame is un-coated, but I've read that on the coated frames they leave this area un-coated. I have no idea if that is true or not, so someone else will have to chime in if anyone needs to know.

So, even without the MCO or the serial number nameplate, I can unofficially update my signature line to identify this build as #10204. At least it's a number that is pretty easy to remember, and I like the symmetry of the number sequence - takes me back to grade school LOL.

Sorry for the side-trip down the rabbit hole of insignificant items, but thanks for indulging me.

[Russwood]

Fuel Tank Installed & Trunk Aluminum Panels

I moved to the rear and hung the fuel tank. Right out of the gate, I got too rough with the vent bushing and broke it while threading in the vent. I knew better, but honestly thought I hadn't bottomed out, but clearly had and the nylon bushing just snapped. I've got the part number down on my needs list once FFR calls me back, but looked online to see if I could just find one somewhere else, and I've either got no internet kung-fu, or the part isn't offered on any outlet I can find. That, or I'm calling it the wrong thing. Both could be true. Doesn't matter at the moment since the rubber grommet that it installs in is on the POL list, so wouldn't be able to install it anyway.

I did learn that the tank straps are not well shaped for a new install. There's no way you can hang that tank with those straps with the supplied hardware on the first attempt. At least I couldn't. After trying and failing a couple times (and having a moment of shouting at inanimate objects), I got some 3/8" threaded rod pieces long enough to get the straps in place and start the nuts and used them to pull the straps tight the first time. After that, the supplied socket head screws worked for the second attempt. Keep this in mind for that first hanging attempt and save the blood pressure spike.

Fuel tank installed with the filler neck. Don't have the fuel level sending unit, so just taped over that hole for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159643&d=1641256038

Moved on to rear aluminum panels. Nothing really exciting about these, but here's some progress pics:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159649&d=1641256154

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159650&d=1641256154

Also shown in these photos is the dividing panel from Breeze to make the cockpit cubby.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159651&d=1641256154

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159652&d=1641256154

One thing I'm doing to help me keep track of the panels is that once I've fitted, marked, and then removed and drilled the panel, I clean off all my marks and the mill stamps with some solvent and then go over the panel with some 320 grit on my orbital sander. This removes the burrs and evens everything out, and is a visual reminder that the panel is done and can be left in temporary position with Clecos until the area is done. Then they will come off and go to either the storage box if they aren't getting coated, or to the powder coat pile. Since the cockpit and trunk are getting covered in heat shielding, sound dampening, and carpet, no reason to coat those. Anything in the engine bay and on the underside of the car will get powder coated to match the frame - basically anything that isn't covered by the carpet. I know this isn't a critical step to the build, especially the sanding, but it's what I like to do. The light sanding also takes off all the surface scratches and makes the panels look somewhat finished. Again, it's purely an aesthetic thing.

I've also started a couple modifications to the trunk area, including a hidden battery compartment. I'll update those in detail later when I've got them more complete, but this pretty much is as far as I can take things until more parts show up. I'll keep progressing with the remaining aluminum panels that I have left to do, and after all the panels are in place, I'll raise the car up and start plumbing the fuel, clutch, and brake lines. I'll use the steel lines that came with the kit for the mock-up assembly, then transfer those to stainless steel lines so I can reduce the number of joints. The supplied lines are 60" sections, but the stainless lines come in 25' coils, so I'll try to make these as long as possible while still being able to install them. I also intend to replace the hoses that came with the EFI fuel package with hard lines for a long portion to better protect them under the car. All the hard lines will be flared with 37deg flares and I plan to use -AN fittings to transition from hard lines to other fittings & hoses. The intent is to try to reduce or remove all the brass plumbing parts - while they work fine, I don't care for the look. Too much like the plumbing section from the hardware store got raided instead of a high-end car build. Again, just my preference - there's nothing functionally wrong with the supplied lines and fittings.

That's it for now.

[Russwood]

looks good. you're making short work of this considering you just received the kit 2 weeks ago.
FWIW, you might find it difficult to transfer your rivet holes from the thinner to the thicker firewall. very slight differences in hole location will make everything else misalign. you may need to drill all new holes once you get your new firewall or open up the transferred holes with a larger bit.

I'm curious about the possibility of the transferred holes not aligning like you mention. My plan was to actually drill the new holes through the old panel and not just marks or scribing, but I do see how minute movement when drilling might create the situation. Best I can do is clamp the two pieces together so they don't move, or may even just start with a couple then Cleco both panels to the frame so they are in position with the .09" panel in the middle of the sandwich. That's probably the method with the best chance of everything working. I'll report back with my success or failure when the time comes.

Thanks for the head's up - that's not something I'd considered. These pointers are great. Keep em coming!

[CaptB]

I powder coated my frame (ordered bare), I didn't find panel assembly much of a challenge. Just take your time and look at pics and the manual. I've not had to re-rivet yet and I've got 90% of the panels either riveted or temp'd in.

[Russwood]

The panels have been pretty easy, just time consuming. I'd leave them all on but I run out of Clecos. Just takes $$ to get more, LOL.

[Russwood]

Trunk Modification and Battery Box

So this will be a short update by my standards. I've spent the past weekend and some the weekend before working on a modification to the trunk as well as a battery location. Since I'm running an accessory package on the engine, the front area is pretty crowded, so I'm not sure the Breeze front battery box will fit, but I haven't honestly tried either. I'm also using the Breeze cubby kit, so the top deck is cut in half, so that's out unless I want to put the battery right between the trunk hinges, and that's not ideal in my opinion. On New Year's weekend, by work buddy was over and we were looking for a spot, and we think we found one. I considered a serious modification to put it in the left side rear fender space, similar to what 520 Speedworks did on the wrecked Cobra project (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-JMRz2Q2vA&list=PL0gUQnIRIYSepWrC9DwUOw8k-Kn3FnC2V&index=9), but we noticed that there's room above the IRS mount. After looking through Optima's list of battery sizes and taking about a million measurements, we determined that a fabricated box could live there if we dropped the truck deck down. I planned to do that anyway, kind of a variation on Russ Thompson's kit and what 520 Speedworks did, so that's what I'm in the middle of.

I've cut the two angled braces out, and welded in some new ones that run front to back above the lower part of the tank, and then a couple more at the top to support the sheet metal changes. Once that was in place, I've built a small platform attached at the front just over the IRS mount.

Before I started the modification:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159649&d=1641256154

After the braces were cut out:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159654&d=1641256176

The bottom tubes are all set & welded, and the target area:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159968&d=1641843287

The battery platform as it was put together:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159969&d=1641843287

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159970&d=1641843287

The platform in place along with the upper tubes - this finished the welding portion:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159972&d=1641843836

Sheet metal started, along with a posterboard mockup of the battery:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=159974&d=1641844240

That's where I left it last night - nearly 3 days of planning and fabricating. I'm pretty slow at the custom stuff - I'm too much of a perfectionist, so it takes me longer than a lot of others might.

Anyway, I'll pick it back up this coming weekend. I hope to finish the sheet metal on the battery box and then start the plumbing for the brakes and fuel.

[phileas_fogg]

Have you backed yourself into a maintenance nightmare? In other words, can you remove and/or service the differential if you need to?


John

[Russwood]

Yes, the diff can be removed. I made sure the top bolts can come all the way out - the space between the bolt head and the new tubes is more than the OAL of the bolts, so they will clear. These IRS diffs can't be serviced in place other than a fluid change since the cover is part of the mounting, and the drain and fill plugs are all still accessible. There's nothing above the frame mount other than the vent, and that will get its final routing during final assembly, so where I've put the box doesn't block anything.

Glad you guys are looking out for me though.

[Russwood]

Trunk Mod & Battery Box - Pt. 2

Not a lot of major progress, but progress. The battery box has snowballed into a little more work than I anticipated it might, but if you know me, that's pretty typical. I have a knack of being able to see the vision of something, but usually then underestimate how long it will take. In this case, I don't want to rush it and get a poor result, so I'm taking my time.

Most of the weekend was spent making the rest of the sheet metal parts to enclose the box so it can be sealed - not so much to protect the battery, but more to keep the water/dirt out of the area since it's actually part of the trunk space. Lots of small panels - really a 3-D puzzle of sorts. But in the end, it came out pretty good.

Here's the floor, back, and sides mocked up (the back panel is just sitting in the area so the top row of holes are visible - obviously not when it's in position):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160340&d=1642427142

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160341&d=1642427142

Here's the semi-completed assembly. I've temporarily riveted some pieces together - I've got to get some more Clecos:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160342&d=1642427142

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160343&d=1642427142

There's two small panels that close the sides at the opening. Those are hard to photograph, so you'll have to take my word that they are there. The top deck metal rivets to the top flaps on the back and sides, so that fully encloses the box.



I've settled on the Optima Redtop 78, which is a front post, so I finalized my cardboard mockup to actual dimensions to test final fit:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160344&d=1642427142

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=160345&d=1642427150

That's where I stopped. The battery body fully fits under the deck, but the front terminals will be sticking out a little. The space I've left on each side in the front will be where the battery cables come up from underneath. The plan is to either modify an existing part or fabricate a battery terminal that will wrap around the front to the sides where there's room to make connections, fused links, etc. There will be an insulating material of some kind to keep the positive terminal from shorting against the cover, and the cover will be lined with a thin sheet of rubber for additional protection. The cover will have to made to protrude out some to give the room needed, and it will be fastened with a row of screws into rivet nuts on the two sides and top. I plan to attach the carpet piece that covers the floor with velcro so it can come up easy for removal of the cover to access the battery. I will also find a spot for either remote jumper posts or a place to plug in a battery minder, or both, so the cover will only need to come off for service or replacement.

I ran out of aluminum, so the cover will have to wait for another day, but apart from some clean-up of panel edges and grinding of some welds that will happen after tear down, this is effectively complete.

In the end, it was a pretty extensive modification, and the most ambitious in my build plan. Since I've not seen anything like this on any other builds that I've followed, I had to figure it out pretty much from scratch, so that always takes more time. There was also quite a bit of standing and staring trying to work it out, and in full disclosure, the first attempt at the frame of the box got cut out and scrapped, but that's part of the process. Failures lead to successes and are usually the best lessons learned.

[rich grsc]

Cut the top floor back to the battery box rear wall, (front of car), put a piano hinge on that floor piece, the you could then open up section of the upper floor to get easier access to the battery. I know there is a part of the 3/4" fame there, but it might be worth the effort

[Russwood]

rich grsc
Cut the top floor back to the battery box rear wall, (front of car), put a piano hinge on that floor piece, the you could then open up section of the upper floor to get easier access to the battery. I know there is a part of the 3/4" fame there, but it might be worth the effort

I like the idea, but the problem that I see is that there's a 1" frame member running horizontal right over where I've put the battery box, so while I know I could overcome that with frame modifications, I'm concerned that it could create a problem that isn't obvious now. I don't know if that is only there to support the back edge of the platform, or if it is critical to the frame rigidness or something. Since it's a 1", it feels like it is doing something more than just deck support, but since it's a 3'+ span, it could be sized that way to keep from sagging with weight over that distance. I'll take a closer look when I get the panels back off.

Thanks for the feedback.

[zee]

I like the idea, but the problem that I see is that there's a 1" frame member running horizontal right over where I've put the battery box, so while I know I could overcome that with frame modifications, I'm concerned that it could create a problem that isn't obvious now. I don't know if that is only there to support the back edge of the platform, or if it is critical to the frame rigidness or something. Since it's a 1", it feels like it is doing something more than just deck support, but since it's a 3'+ span, it could be sized that way to keep from sagging with weight over that distance. I'll take a closer look when I get the panels back off.

Thanks for the feedback.

I am getting IRS too so I've been following your battery plans very closely :-D.

Since I don't have my kit yet :-D, does the battery fit in the upper section of the trunk, on the passenger side? The default FF position is in the middle but I want to use that for cockpit storage. I am going to see if I can put the battery behind the passenger, laying down (sealed battery). I am used to doing long multi-day trips on my motorcycle, so a small trunk is not a major deal breaker for me.

Out of curiosity, why not put the battery in the front? My default option is the breeze front mount.

[Russwood]

I am getting IRS too so I've been following your battery plans very closely :-D.

Since I don't have my kit yet :-D, does the battery fit in the upper section of the trunk, on the passenger side? The default FF position is in the middle but I want to use that for cockpit storage. I am going to see if I can put the battery behind the passenger, laying down (sealed battery). I am used to doing long multi-day trips on my motorcycle, so a small trunk is not a major deal breaker for me.

Out of curiosity, why not put the battery in the front? My default option is the breeze front mount.

My preferred location would be the front, but I'm putting an accessory drive on the engine that sticks forward quite a lot, like a couple of inches. It doesn't sound like much, but it's enough in an already tight space with the Coyote that there's not room for the front battery box, or even a custom one that I can tell. I don't yet have my steering rack or radiator, so until those are in place and then the pulley system added, I won't know 100%, but with any chance at all of not having the room, I chose to go ahead and do the modification now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156697&d=1637601993

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=156694&d=1637601993

On your first question, I believe it would, but it would have to be installed/serviced from a pretty tight opening between the trunk hinges. That's not a big deal with the body off, but looks terribly difficult to me with the body on. I also am installing the Breeze cubby kit, which cuts the upper area in half side to side, so that eliminated the ability to put a battery up there and still have any usable space. If you used a sealed really skinny battery, you could probably put it on the RH side. If you know your battery dimensions, message those to me and I'll be glad to take some measurements and pictures for you.

[phileas_fogg]

Forgive me if I'm speaking out of turn, but I think Rich is suggesting an access panel to get your hand (or a cat's paw) behind the battery to help skooch it forward until you can get hold of it from the front. If I'm correct, you wouldn't cut the 3/4" frame.

Another way to get the same advantage is to run some paracord over the top, down the back, and under the bottom of the battery so you can pull the battery forward.


John

[Russwood]

Forgive me if I'm speaking out of turn, but I think Rich is suggesting an access panel to get your hand (or a cat's paw) behind the battery to help skooch it forward until you can get hold of it from the front. If I'm correct, you wouldn't cut the 3/4" frame.

Another way to get the same advantage is to run some paracord over the top, down the back, and under the bottom of the battery so you can pull the battery forward.


John

Ahh, I see what you mean. Yes, that would work. I tend to overthink stuff - product of my occupation.

[Ted G]

Russel, Nice documentation and thank you! I too am getting my chassis bare and will do some modifications and assembly before I PC it (however, probably not as much as you). I like your battery option and I may consider that. I saw somewhere where someone built a battery box just behind the driver side rear wheel. That may have been an MK3 where there is more room. This is a nice option as I too do not want my battery in the engine bay. Again, thanks for the details as I'll be watching your build as I'm about 60 days behind you.

Ted

[Russwood]

Russel, Nice documentation and thank you! I too am getting my chassis bare and will do some modifications and assembly before I PC it (however, probably not as much as you). I like your battery option and I may consider that. I saw somewhere where someone built a battery box just behind the driver side rear wheel. That may have been an MK3 where there is more room. This is a nice option as I too do not want my battery in the engine bay. Again, thanks for the details as I'll be watching your build as I'm about 60 days behind you.

Ted

Thanks for the compliment. I tend to over-share, so this is a good outlet for that!

I think the battery in the LH rear fender well you are thinking of was done by the guys in Tucson, AZ that rebuilt the wrecked Cobra and put air-ride on it. I think I referenced it in an earlier post, but can't recall if it was a Mk3 or Mk4. https://520speedworks.com/ did it and are a supporting member on this forum. The video series on YouTube is pretty neat to watch - the car turned out amazing. They even reworked the geometry of the front suspension to tuck the tires all the way up and set the frame nearly on the ground. I'm not brave enough to attempt that. They also have a slick bolt-less roll bar kit that eliminates the bolt that attaches the angled brace to the roll bar by using an internal clamping mechanism. Makes it really clean looking. It's on my wish list for when the time comes.

I started out with the battery in the wheel well location in mind, inspired by that build. But as my buddy and I studied what it would take and began to plan, he pointed out that there may be room where I wound up doing it. I think it's a much easier modification (as in not easy at all), and 520 Speedworks had the trashed rear fenders and a fully built Cobra to use as a template during fabrication for their location. I didn't like the idea of having to take the body off and on several times to make sure I had clearance, shape, etc., so the current spot looked less complicated. Jury is still out though, when I'm done and done, then we can judge whether or not I'm nuts for trying this. Good thing is, nothing I've done so far can't be reversed.

[zee]

On your first question, I believe it would, but it would have to be installed/serviced from a pretty tight opening between the trunk hinges. That's not a big deal with the body off, but looks terribly difficult to me with the body on. I also am installing the Breeze cubby kit, which cuts the upper area in half side to side, so that eliminated the ability to put a battery up there and still have any usable space. If you used a sealed really skinny battery, you could probably put it on the RH side. If you know your battery dimensions, message those to me and I'll be glad to take some measurements and pictures for you.

*IF* I put the battery in the trunk, the thought was to modify the Breeze storage so instead of using the entire width, it only uses the 2/3rd on the left and leaves the RH for the battery.

May be I am overthinking it since the Breeze front battery works just fine for me :-).

[rich grsc]

Forgive me if I'm speaking out of turn, but I think Rich is suggesting an access panel to get your hand (or a cat's paw) behind the battery to help skooch it forward until you can get hold of it from the front. If I'm correct, you wouldn't cut the 3/4" frame.

Another way to get the same advantage is to run some paracord over the top, down the back, and under the bottom of the battery so you can pull the battery forward.


John
John you are 100% correct. I would not cut ANY rear frame supports. They are simple, basic crumple zones in my opinion. By removing braces and tubing, you really don't know how that changes the effects of being hit from behind.
I don't understand why the resistance to putting the battery up front, as long as you have the space? My 1st car, a MkII had the battery in the rear under the upper floor, worst place you could imagine, had to jack up the car to remove the battery from under the car. My 2nd, I put it on the right rear truck floor, easy to get too, but used up a lot of space. Now it's on the top of the passenger foot box, the perfect place.

[Russwood]

John you are 100% correct. I would not cut ANY rear frame supports. They are simple, basic crumple zones in my opinion. By removing braces and tubing, you really don't know how that changes the effects of being hit from behind.
I don't understand why the resistance to putting the battery up front, as long as you have the space? My 1st car, a MkII had the battery in the rear under the upper floor, worst place you could imagine, had to jack up the car to remove the battery from under the car. My 2nd, I put it on the right rear truck floor, easy to get too, but used up a lot of space. Now it's on the top of the passenger foot box, the perfect place.

What I've cut out are just trunk floor supports, nothing structural as they relate to the frame itself. They may have some value as crimple zone elements which is probably why they are at angles from the center point, but I haven't found anything that confirms that 100%. Not saying there's not something out there, just that I haven't found it. The tubing I cut out looks like 11ga thickness, which is pretty stiff. The tubing I used to fab the trunk is much thinner, so it bends relatively easily. I'm not an engineer and don't claim to be, but in my mind, if the car gets hit from the rear, there's still plenty of empty space to help absorb the energy.

I've gotten lots of comments/questions about why I don't just put the battery in the front. I've said why in other posts, but it boils down to not having the room in the front with the accessory drive pulley system I'm installing. I'm of two minds on the front location anyway, but would have probably put it up there if I were running something other than what I am. By doing this modification, it's not in conflict with the pulley system, and it's easier to get in and out than the drop box method I've seen. In that mod, the battery sits essentially in the same place that mine does but is loaded from the top instead of the front. That requires lifting the battery up and out of the box before getting it off the top deck. That looks wicked difficult to me. My design allows the battery to just slide out of the compartment, then can just be lifted out of the trunk from a position that is much easier to handle the weight. When it's done, it is fully hidden and doesn't take up any room in the trunk area. I considered the top of the RH foot box, but I've got plans for other stuff to live there. And I would agree that having to access the battery from underneath would NOT be my desired location.

[rich grsc]

I certainly understand your reason for not putting the battery up front.

[Russwood]

I certainly understand your reason for not putting the battery up front.

After the past two weekends of nothing much more that this battery/trunk mod, there's been a few moments where I wish I could put it up front!

[Ted G]

John you are 100% correct. I would not cut ANY rear frame supports. They are simple, basic crumple zones in my opinion. By removing braces and tubing, you really don't know how that changes the effects of being hit from behind.
I don't understand why the resistance to putting the battery up front, as long as you have the space? My 1st car, a MkII had the battery in the rear under the upper floor, worst place you could imagine, had to jack up the car to remove the battery from under the car. My 2nd, I put it on the right rear truck floor, easy to get too, but used up a lot of space. Now it's on the top of the passenger foot box, the perfect place.

I like that spot and have seen it on your build. If I have a heater, will that eliminate that spot for me?

Ted

[rich grsc]

I like that spot and have seen it on your build. If I have a heater, will that eliminate that spot for me?

Ted
That's a question I can't fully answer, I think if you plan for it, you can make it work. the battery is really small. My heater is 100% behind the dash, even the heater hoses route out the far right side, right next to the windshield bolts, so they are behind the battery.

[Russwood]

Small World...

Not much of consequence to share build related. I started working on the fuel & brake lines, but I'm taking my time to get them right, so when I'm happy with the end result, I'll share some pics. I'm using the provided soft steel lines from the kit to make templates, then transferring those into stainless tubing.

Did get a couple of boxes Thursday from the POL, so the radiator, gauges, and a few odds & ends are now off the list, so that's good. Still missing the steering rack & brakes of the major items, along with the entire box of sheet metal pieces. I did get some response to my email about that missing box and the drive shaft length, but no ETA on either.

I did want to share what was a somewhat surreal moment though. As I'm working on the car yesterday (Sunday) and it starts getting dark, a strange truck pulls down the driveway. The weather was nice so I had both doors open and all the lights on, so I'm sure the shop was like a beacon in the dark, but my neighborhood is very quiet and traffic is pretty rare. As it stops, a guy opens the window and asks me if the car is a Factory Five. Now I was sure he was just a guy who saw the lights and the bright red body sitting there and came down to see, but when he asked me about it being a Factory Five, it took me by surprise. Every person so far has had to ask me what the car is, so this question was clearly different. Of course I answered that it was, and he follows up with "my car is being delivered next week"! Now I was sure I wasn't the only one with a FFR in the OKC area, but I hadn't met anyone yet, and haven't found any local clubs or the like. The conversation went on, and I learned that he lives less than a mile from me! So not only is there another build going on in town, its within walking distance. Absolutely never saw that coming.

We talked for a while sharing build plans, ideas, engines, etc. It absolutely made my entire weekend.

Welcome to the family Merv (aka MLong on this forum). It's cool to have another one close by. I'm looking forward to the shared experiences as we progress through these builds.

[Russwood]

Parts, Parts, & More Parts!!

It's been a little while since I did an update, so there may be a few in a row here. Work has been progressing, but with missing parts, the work I've been doing is hit and miss.

I started running the fuel lines, and wasn't too proud of the first couple of attempts, so no pictures. I'm probably being too picky, but being an electrician who's bent tens of thousands of feet of conduit in my career, I have a high personal standard. The sad part is that I've thrown away about as much tubing as I've installed. Guess I've been in the office too long!

I'll get some pics of the fuel side taken and uploaded into the albums.

While I spent a couple weekends on the fuel lines and other little items, parts starting showing up. I got two big boxes from FFR from my POL that had my gauges, odds and ends, and the radiator. Also, my Coyote control pack finally arrived after almost 4 months of being on backorder. Since I was still waiting on the forward firewall metal from FFMetal, I moved to finding a home for the ECU. Man is that thing big!

I wound up pretty much where the FFR manual says to put it, but I didn't like the flimsy sheet metal part that was sent with the kit for mounting it, so I fabricated some small steel bits and welded them to the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163265&d=1646264246

I drilled and set some rivet nuts so it can be removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163266&d=1646264246

Computer mounted. I've stripped the loom off the engine harness - that thing is getting reworked with some better looking loom, so I took the opportunity to adjust where it comes off the engine so the finished location and look will be cleaner. You can see the two fuel lines sticking out in the bottom of the picture - they still need to be bent and routed up the right foot box to meet the fuel regulator.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163267&d=1646264246

I started opening up the other harnesses to get them more cleanly routed, so there's a wad of wiring that needs to be shortened, lengthened, etc. to make a harness that better fits the car. These harnesses are designed for a Mustang and/or F150, so they don't make any sense in the roadster. Once I've got everything where it goes, this will look a lot cleaner, especially after the body is in place. (Ignore the fuel regulator where it is shown in this picture - that is getting relocated once the forward firewall part gets here.)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163268&d=1646264246

Decided to put the engine bay fuse block on top of the right side footbox. It makes a nice clean install and gives the wiring a more hidden route to the dash area. I've got some rivet nuts playing the part of temporary fasteners until I can get to the hardware store for the right items.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163269&d=1646264246

That's all I have time to share tonight - got to get the kiddo to karate practice.

[Russwood]

Pedal Box Modification

I have been concerned about being comfortable in the car, and leg room is a big one for me. I'm not especially tall (6'-1"), but my legs were really cramped when I sat in one of the cars in the Wareham showroom. When I first installed the pedals, I noticed how much room there is behind the brake and clutch pedals, so I did some experimentation on moving them forward. My measurements indicated that there was an easy inch that could be gained, and when I factored in the Coyote DBW accelerator pedal, it was pretty obvious that this was possible.

So out came the Wilwood pedal box and other associated stuff.

I laid out the move on the pedal box mount, and just in case going for the full inch of move was too ambitious, I also laid out a 1/2" set of holes just in case.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163270&d=1646264347

Here's the finished piece after the new holes were drilled and the material removed to let the pedal box assembly shift forward. The portion at the dash end had to be removed to get the Wilwood assembly far enough forward, so you can see the remaining portion of the original rear hole.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163271&d=1646264347

Last, the assembly back together and in the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163274&d=1646264347

One thing that I was concerned about were the rear support pieces that go down to the angled frame member. I thought I would have to remake those, but somehow they fit perfectly, just needed new holes. I haven't spent the time to try to understand the geometry, but for some reason it just fit. I'll take the win!

The next pic shows how well the pedals line up now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163275&d=1646264379

One thing I had to really struggle with was the Coyote pedal. I mounted it to the provided bracket, and trimmed down the pedal exactly like the instructions indicated, but it wouldn't fit. No way possible. There was interference at least two places. So after trimming every part of the pedal to contour exactly to the frame, it still wouldn't fit. I wound up having to raise it more than an inch to get clearance, but then that prevents the connector to be plugged in, so the harness has to be plugged in, then the pedal mounted. The easier way would have been to install this first, then put in the Wilwood pedals in. That's the sequence I'll follow when final assembly happens. One happy accident after moving the accelerator up and making new holes, it lines up better at the bottom and actually gives a little more foot space. Again, I'll take the win.

To those wondering, yes, there's plenty of room for pedal travel on both brake and clutch. Since I'm using a hydraulic release bearing on the clutch, I'll have to fabricate and install a pedal stop anyway. The pedals run almost 100% of the master cylinder max travel before hitting the footbox metal or the frame, and I can't believe that the last few millimeters will be an issue. If they are, there's the 1/2" set of holes to gain some. I also drilled holes in the frame below in case that needs to happen, but I'm pretty sure things are where they will stay.

[Russwood]

Radiator

So the POL list shrinking - down to about a dozen little items and a couple major ones. Still out there is the steering rack, and those have been well documented elsewhere, so I won't add to the list of griping. Also lacking the fuel tank vent grommet keeping me from finishing the fuel tank, some misc. plumbing fittings, and the Wilwood brakes.

I will share a little discovery on the steering rack subject. Since my build plan is show/cruiser, I've been on the lookout for upgrades to parts that add to the overall look. With the shortage of steering racks, I called a friend in the automotive world and he pointed me to AGR Performance (aka Steerco, LLC) not far from here in Fort Worth, TX. I initially emailed them asking if they had any in stock and the owner, Josh replied. After a subsequent phone call, I learned a lot about steering racks (probably more than I ever thought I would), and he tells me that there is a real shortage of new housings, which are cast in China. His theory is that FFR probably orders from Unisteer in large quantities, so with housing shortages, it obviously takes longer to fulfil the big order. The other option is to buy a rebuilt one, but I really am trying to stay as true to an all new parts car if at all possible (I know - the rear end center section isn't, but so far that's the only thing). I wound up ordering a new rack from him that is a polished case version which adds to the jewelry box under the hood. Same specs - 15:1 ratio, same dimensions, same tie rods, 15.5" center to center mounting bolts, etc. Model #715583. He offers another model with a larger torsion bar, but he said with wider tires that unit would transmit too much road feel and wouldn't be enjoyable to drive - it's more for the pure track car. He even through in urethane bushings, even though FFR included those with my kit - so I'll have a spare set. He extended the warranty out to 3 years when I added his PS fluid, so while the fluid costs more than I can buy from a local parts store, the warranty is worth the difference IMO. I'll try to sell the FFR rack when it shows along with the growing pile of stuff I don't need.

Being the nerd I am, I researched his product before emailing. There are very mixed opinions/reviews on the internet, mostly on Mustang forums, and as with anything, you can't please everyone. That said, there were enough good ones for me to feel comfortable to pull the trigger, and with the 3-year warranty and them being so close, I don't expect I'll have any issues getting taken care of if I have a problem. He told me he's been lurking on this site because he really likes the cars and the builds, so I told him he should contact our administrators about becoming a contributing vendor. We will see if he does!

To the radiator.

I ordered the top and bottom mounting kits from Mark at Breeze, so the short tube sections had to come off first. I cut them off using my sawzall, then ground down the remaining welds.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163291&d=1646264545

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163292&d=1646264545

Ground smooth:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163293&d=1646264545

After pre-assembling the hinge, spacers, etc. - then marking, drilling, and tapping the frame tube, I bolted up the unit. The kit came with the bit and tap, and the bolts are just long enough to grab threads at both sides of the tube. I suppose if this wasn't firm enough, you could replace the bolts with longer ones and add a nut for additional strength. Will go with the instruction's method for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163294&d=1646264545

The bottom kit is essentially a 1/2" square tube with some pre-cut rubber hose pieces to serve as vibration dampening, and then some laser cut brackets that allow for angle adjustment. I don't yet have an angle finder, so this is best educated guess using a level and square to find the angle (51deg?) from horizontal the instructions call for. I erred on the lower angle side of things so I've got some adjustment both ways if I'm off. It really will depend on the fit with the body once it goes on in order to make the supplied bottom aluminum panel fit. The kit instructions call for that piece to be riveted to the radiator and the body, but Mark's kit removes need to do that, so it really just means making that panel either tuck under the nose opening, or something like that. Will see when the time comes, but there's adjustment to make it work.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163295&d=1646264567

Here's a couple of pics showing the view from the top. This shows the Breeze fan shroud too - really like all the stuff I've bought from Mark @ Breeze so far. Still have the top cowling piece from him to install.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163296&d=1646264567

Here's a side view. The wiring and coolant plumbing are further down on the build to-do list. Need to get the steering rack in and plumbed first.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163297&d=1646264567

More to come...

[Russwood]

Firewall, Brake Reservoir, & Hard Lines

I mentioned in a previous post that I had ordered a forward firewall from FFMetals, and it arrived. I got it in place, and laid out & mounted the fuel regulator & a billet triple fluid reservoir from Scott's Hotrods. I had already installed the fuel hard lines, so I got the AN hoses fitted and in place. I'll secure the hose between the regulator and engine fuel rail with some billet clamps once I'm sure I have everything where it needs to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163278&d=1646264379

The reservoir I planned to use is the one that several builds have had good results from, but it's out of production or something, because I couldn't find anyone selling them. This one doesn't have the volume, but it will be adequate. I do like how it has outlets on the bottom and the back, so I found some threaded plugs and closed the bottom ports since I'm using the rear locations. This fits perfectly into my plan for as clean as possible, so there won't be any of the hoses in the engine bay as they will be routed behind the firewall.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163282&d=1646264422

Below the reservoir are the bulkhead fittings that the front & rear brakes and the clutch lines leave from.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163281&d=1646264422

Here's a view from the back, you can see the mounting and the fittings from the reservoir, and below them are the 90deg bulkhead fittings for the brake and clutch lines.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163283&d=1646264422

I routed the hoses around and to the master cylinders, and then bent and installed the hard lines. You can also see some of the wiring harnesses in place, but haven't gotten fully into wiring quite yet. The concern I had was getting the under-dash fuse block in place and the big harness out so I could plan routes and get things out and headed to where they go. Now that the hard lines are done, the rest of the dash wiring can be routed when the time comes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163285&d=1646264442

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163286&d=1646264442

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163288&d=1646264442

[Russwood]

Hard Lines Cont...

I'll get some better pictures of the hard lines this weekend, the engine is out so I can finish all of those and get some of the engine wiring harness from the Coyote controls pack routed/extended/shortened/etc. since they weren't made with the roadster in mind.

I opted to not use the supplied parts from FFR on the brakes since I'm using the Wilwood upgraded brakes, and they have a supplied stainless line that has -3AN on each end. I ordered some 90deg bulkhead fittings in -3AN (McMaster I think it was), and an adapter to go up to a -4AN on the car side since I'm running 1/4" stainless steel hard lines for the brakes & clutch.

On the fronts, I drilled holes in the sheet metal near where the manual shows the little brackets. The bracket's holes were too big for these fittings, and it doesn't need to be bulletproof, just secure, so these should be ok. I ran the line on the engine side of the front X part of the frame, and then followed the vertical frame members to each side. On the LH side, I fitted a tee for the line back to the master cylinder.

Here's the RH side and the crossover:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163272&d=1646264347

And the LH side with the tee (the panel is off so I could work the lines easier):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163273&d=1646264347

I did get the rear crossover line started, but ran out of energy, so I didn't take any pics. I'll post an update with some of all the lines when done.

I did get a pleasant surprise on Monday - the front brakes from Wilwood arrived! Even my dog was excited (you can't tell in the photo but she's wagging her tail).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163731&d=1646939752

I really want to get these installed, but I'm shooting in my first registered skeet event on Saturday, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to. Fingers crossed I can find some time.

[460.465USMC]

Nice looking tube work, Russel. Almost like you've done it before. :p

Looks great!

[Russwood]

Thanks. The truth is that it's taken way longer to do the lines that I expected. I've been in the office a long time, and while the hands start to remember what to do, it's been many years since I ran conduit in any quantity. My biggest problem is me - I expect more from myself that I can deliver, so I'm getting some humbling lessons through this experience. Probably exactly what I needed.

[TBull]

I really like your attention to detail. Looks like a fantastic build. I used multiple items from FFMetal in my build(Bent F-Panels for Larger tires, new thicker firewall, trans tunnel cover, and their Battery box). They make good products. Can't wait to see what else you have in store for the car.

[Russwood]

Hard Lines pt. 3

Nearly done with hard lines (I hope!), and promised some pics of previous work I didn't document.

Here's the fuel lines from the engine bay:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163920&d=1647267354

They run straight back along the RH 4" tube, then turn back up right behind the passenger seat:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163921&d=1647267354

From there, I transitioned the 3/8" line to AN hose to the fuel filter then on to the fuel pickup, and the 1/4" line transitioned to hose and then straight to the return port on the pickup. I used the fuel line quick-connect adapters to AN fittings on the fuel pickup. The 1/4" size came with the EFI option from FFR, but I had to order a 5/16" to 6AN version. The EFI package contained the hoses I used, but it came with plastic fittings for the pickup connection on the supply side, so all of the parts that were plastic I changed to aluminum so all the hoses are AN.

Here's some more photos of the brake lines now that the engine is out.

A better view of the lines leaving the bulkhead fittings - the far left is the clutch:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163919&d=1647267354

From the front:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163924&d=1647267368

LH front inside:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163925&d=1647267368

LH front outside:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163923&d=1647267354

Looking forward:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163922&d=1647267354

I have the rear crossover done, but it's a straight run, so nothing much. I need to figure the bend on the transition from under the car to the tee, so once I get that sorted, I'll take the piece from the front and then the rear and re-bend a continuous run so there's no coupling in the middle. It's OCD and unnecessary, but it will eliminate one possible leak point.

[Russwood]

Front Brakes

Didn't get to work on the car much Saturday - was out at the OKC Gun Club for my first experience in a registered skeet shoot (another expensive hobby). I had a great time, and learned where I need to concentrate my practice, which is pretty much every station LOL.

I did get some time in the shop on Sunday, and tackled the front Wilwood brakes. The rears aren't here yet, but I did get an email that the electronic parking brake calipers and control pack shipped and will be here Monday. I expect the rear brakes aren't far behind.

The Wilwood brakes have been well documented on this forum, so I won't repeat the blow by blow. Like nearly everyone, it was my first experience with safety wire, so slow at first, and did cut a few out and redo because I either went too far past the second bolt, or overtwisted and broke the wire. After the first few pair, I got a rhythm and it went well.

Assembly of the hat to the rotor:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163926&d=1647267368

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163927&d=1647267368

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163928&d=1647267368

Safety wire:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163929&d=1647267382

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163930&d=1647267382

I installed the rotors and calipers on the car, but didn't install the brake pads. Since I'm going to tear everything down to paint before I get it road-ready, there wasn't any reason to.

LH side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163932&d=1647267382

RH side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=163931&d=1647267382


That's where it stands. I did get the permanent hub nuts from FFR off the POL this weekend, but won't install those until the final assembly - I've got some temporary nuts from McMaster on there for now. Ideally, if Wilwood ships the rear brakes this week, I'll get those on and complete the brake mockups. If they don't, I'll get into wiring pretty deeply until I get more backordered parts. Hoping the steering rack will ship soon from AGR too, which will let me complete the front end and steering shaft installation. It was about 40 calendar days from when I ordered, which would be mid-March. I need to review the POL, but there's not many items left on it, so there won't be much keeping me from getting things finished but time.

[Russwood]

Wiring

Short parts update - if you are waiting on a steering rack, you may be getting one soon. I got mine Friday, so watch for the FedEx man! I also received my electronic parking brake kit from Wilwood, but still waiting on the actual rear brakes, so that will have to wait. I'm down to the driveshaft and door latches on the POL.

I have been working on the wiring here and there, but dove deeper into it this weekend. I'm not rushing through this part, so not a massive amount of progress, but I got the wiring from the computer cleaned up and the upgraded loom installed where it's going to be visible from the engine compartment. I realized that I needed to get the wiper motor in place so the engine bay fuse block could be put in a final position and mounted, so I dug out the motor and got it in a suitable location and angle so the drive cable is in a good routing to reach the wipers when the time comes. I'll remove this and put it away. I'm using the supplied bolts but installed some 5/16" rivet nuts instead of the locking nuts so it can be removed without taking the body off if the need ever arises. I'll use some Loctite during final assembly to ensure it doesn't work loose under vibrations when the wipers are operating. I got the wiring from the motor routed, hidden, and staged for connection later behind the dash.

Once that was done, the fuse block got set and mounted, and the wiring all cleaned up. I've got more to do, but until the Gas-n headers and side pipes get here, I'm holding off the O2 sensor harness routing so I can find a pathway that hides as much as possible. I also got the horns mounted and hooked up, and mounted the LH front harness with the supplied padded clamps. I did change out the radiator fan connector to a water-proof version, but that's it for the front until the body goes on.

View from LH side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164323&d=1647885973

Horns:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164321&d=1647885973

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164322&d=1647885973

Computer, fuse block, and wiper motor mounted and cleaned up - Back side (will be covered by the body):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164320&d=1647885973

Front side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164319&d=1647885973

[Russwood]

More Parts

This update won't have much build related - I worked on more of the wiring harness clean up and some odds and ends. Nothing photo worthy.

The big news this week was the arrival of more backordered parts. Wilwood and FFR both emailed that shipments were going out. So Thursday came with another big box from Wilwood, which are the rear brakes. Friday brought the box from FFR, which I suspect is the drive shaft, but haven't yet opened to verify. At least that's what I'm hoping it is! LOL

Getting deliveries is so fun!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164849&d=1648836188

The other exciting arrivals were the long-awaited aluminum valve covers for the Gen 3 Coyote from Modular Mustang Racing (MMR). These have been on order for almost a year, and they were worth the wait.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164851&d=1648836352

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164852&d=1648836352

It's going to be hard not to put these straight on, but there's other items more urgent. Still don't think I'll be able to restrain myself!

The other cool arrival were the heat shields for the side pipes. I caught a discussion on another thread about heat shields vs. no heat shields, and after studying the pros & cons, I'm opting for them. Wasn't sure what I wanted until one of the members posted what he got from https://steelshields.com/cobra, and I was hooked. These are a little pricey, but they are absolutely beautiful and worth the cost to save some scars. Ordered on a Monday, received on Thursday. They came complete with the stainless-steel clamps and some high heat wraps to keep the clamps from scratching the side pipes. Seems like good quality materials and craftmanship from the first examination. These will have to stay in the box until final assembly, so that will be a while.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164857&d=1648836389

I am still waiting on the upgraded & polished front steering rack from AGR, the headers and side pipes from Gas-N, and the front aluminum F panels from FFMetals for the wider tires. Hadn't originally intended on using those panels, but after reading some threads where guys went with the standard F panels but with wider tires and experienced restriction of turning radius, I went ahead and ordered them. Bill Dane emailed that they have shipped and are tracking to be here Tuesday. I haven't checked with Josh @ AGR in a couple of weeks, so I plan to shoot him an email to see where the rack is, and after some back and forth with Georgie @ Gas-N, he tells me that my order should ship out around the end of April.

Once those last items are here, I'll be down to wheels & tires for major parts, but with my build progress, I'll hold off for a bit to order those since they'd just be sitting in the corner in the boxes.

That's it for now. The plan is to try to wrap up the wiring that can be done and get the rear brakes done this weekend.

[Russwood]

Rear Brakes

With the rear brake package finally here, that was the agenda item to get off the to-do list. I've had the Wilwood electronic parking brake set for a while, so I've been anxious to get that installed so the wiring can continue as well since it has a pre-made harness that needs to route from the rear to the dash area.

The rotor assembly was exactly like the fronts, so nothing new to add there. The rears went on straightforward, and the initial shimming per the instructions was perfect. The fronts had taken a few attempts to get centered, so I expected the same on the rears, but pleasantly surprised to not have to take them on and off a few times.

Right hand side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165054&d=1649097659

Left hand side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165055&d=1649097659

On to the electronic parking brakes.

[Russwood]

Wilwood Electronic Parking Brakes

I've known for a while that I wanted an alternative to the cable actuated parking brakes for a couple of reasons, but mostly because I wanted to lose the e-brake handle. I know lots of builds have made them work, but I wasn't sure the cable routing would work with the bigger T-56 transmission, and I really wanted to clear up as much cockpit room as possible. I had stumbled across the Wilwood electronic parking brakes while doing my research. After debating the pros & cons, I decided to go for it.

The instructions on Wilwood's site seemed to show that they'd bolt right up to the supplied brackets from the rear brake kit, so I was fairly certain these would be simple, and for the most part, I was right.

Here's the items in the kit:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165056&d=1649097659

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165057&d=1649097659

The calipers were two different part numbers, so there's a specific left hand and right hand version of these. Visually inspection just shows the electromagnet part rotated 180 degrees, but otherwise they are identical. I was moving right along until I went to bolt up the first one, and my heart sank.

This is what I found:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165061&d=1649097673

If you are noticing that the magnet portion is conflicting with the spring, you are correct. These are no where close to the mounting position, and there was no way they were going to fit. I was crushed. My mind was reeling. I feared that I'd have to fabricate some way to make the cable actuated calipers work, but with the larger T-56 transmission, there's no room for the e-brake handle where shown, and the only option would be to go with the electronic actuator that is big and slow. It wouldn't be the end of the world, but I'd also be out the $$ for the Wilwood kit, and while I could probably have returned it (bought through Jegs), it was a big moment of disappointment.

But, after a few seconds of panic, I walked around to the other side, and it fits!!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165063&d=1649097673

There's not a huge amount of clearance, but its more than 3/8" of an inch, and unless I see some interference once the car is down on the suspension and aligned, I feel pretty good about them working.

After test fitting the wiring connector:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165060&d=1649097673

I will dress up the wiring and zip-tie it back to itself to keep it from getting fouled in the spring during final assembly, but it was a huge relief when it all fell into position. I honestly don't know the reason why the left hand caliper as designed won't work on the left side, but I'm assuming it's probably because this was originally intended for a factory street car (Mustang??), or perhaps the design had a forward positioned shock. In any case, simply switching sides was the solution. Since both of these are identical parts - just assembled in reverse positions, they will operate the same no matter what side it is installed on. The wiring connectors are identical, and the only way you know what side is what is the wiring is marked "Left Side" and "Right Side" respectively. I routed the harness like normal, so I don't anticipate an issue.

Here's the overall after both sides were completed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165058&d=1649097659

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165062&d=1649097673

I've got the harness routed along side the Ron Francis rear harness tucked up in the top corner of the trans tunnel and then up through the bottom of the forward firewall metal. I'll share some pics once I get that front area done. Just waiting on a couple more grommets to finish that part.

[JeffP]

I'm a bit jealous on these. I really wanted to use them but they don't work with the brakes for the 3-Link. They haven't developed the bracket for it yet. They look awesome, nice work!

[Russwood]

Yeah, that stinks. Don't the 3-link brakes from Wilwood use the standard cable type parking brake calipers?

[JeffP]

They do (drum parking brake inside the rotor). I've ordered an e-stopp.. not my first choice but still beats the handle.

[Russwood]

Update (or lack thereof)

Haven't posted in a while, but got some messages checking on me, so I do appreciate the thoughts. All is well, just nothing much to report as far as build progress.

Two major parts issues are making me a bit crazy at the moment. One is a well-respected vendor, the other not so much. You can take the information for what you feel it's worth.

First, the negative. My build plan is a cruiser/show car, so I'm adding as much visual pop as I can afford where it matters, and so I opted to buy an aesthetically upgraded steering rack from AGR Steering (aka Steerco, LLC). I posted previously about this decision and how there was mixed reviews online, mostly from Mustang groups. Well, I placed the order in late February with an expected lead time of 4-5 weeks depending on when the housings were available. I felt ok about the deal after talking at length with the owner, but in the recent weeks/months, there's been no movement. I've emailed him several times, and called them in late April to find out status. No replies to the emails, even though the website says that's the preferred method (probably so they can be ignored easier). During the call, I was told the order was shipping the next day and that they had been waiting on a shipment of fluid (they extend the warranty if you use their fluid). Well, you can guess that I've not yet gotten the order. Another threatening email sent last week with an end-of-business today deadline to respond, so I'll see today if they are planning to do anything or not. It may be too late, but if I can't get shipment confirmation, I'll be getting with my CC company to file a fraud claim. I'll keep you posted.

Second, the not-so-great news (but not negative). So many builds have used the Gas-N headers and pipes, and nearly everyone has good or great things to say about the product. It's definitely a more expensive option, but the reviews make it seem worthy. The order was placed in late January, with an expected lead time of 10-12 weeks, depending on material availability. Yesterday made 17 weeks, but there's been several emails back and forth between me and Georgie Arnos, the owner. He's been super professional, honest, and has responded quickly. He tells me the pipes are at the polisher, which is behind on getting orders turned around, so he's telling me that he hopes those will be ready to ship by the second week of June (next week). I was a bit surprised to learn from his last email that he headers are just now being built this week, but should ship by this Friday. I supposed materials have been harder to get than I expected, and it could also be that they've been waiting on components to do final welding. All in all, I knew this would take time and I'm ok to wait given that the typical experience from Gas-N has been excellent.

So, with the last major parts still not in hand to allow me to finish the engine mockup, wiring, plumbing, etc., I'm pretty much on hold. Once I do get those parts (at least the headers), I can't do very much. If the steering rack falls through, I may look at just making the standard FFR rack look better and move on. It's not a deal breaker if that's what I need to do. I do need both in place to complete the engine bay plumbing, tank locations, etc. before I start the tear-down to start painting & coating everything for final assembly.

I'll update as soon as there's something to show.

[orangecruz]

Update (or lack thereof)

Haven't posted in a while, but got some messages checking on me, so I do appreciate the thoughts. All is well, just nothing much to report as far as build progress.

Two major parts issues are making me a bit crazy at the moment. One is a well-respected vendor, the other not so much. You can take the information for what you feel it's worth.

First, the negative. My build plan is a cruiser/show car, so I'm adding as much visual pop as I can afford where it matters, and so I opted to buy an aesthetically upgraded steering rack from AGR Steering (aka Steerco, LLC). I posted previously about this decision and how there was mixed reviews online, mostly from Mustang groups. Well, I placed the order in late February with an expected lead time of 4-5 weeks depending on when the housings were available. I felt ok about the deal after talking at length with the owner, but in the recent weeks/months, there's been no movement. I've emailed him several times, and called them in late April to find out status. No replies to the emails, even though the website says that's the preferred method (probably so they can be ignored easier). During the call, I was told the order was shipping the next day and that they had been waiting on a shipment of fluid (they extend the warranty if you use their fluid). Well, you can guess that I've not yet gotten the order. Another threatening email sent last week with an end-of-business today deadline to respond, so I'll see today if they are planning to do anything or not. It may be too late, but if I can't get shipment confirmation, I'll be getting with my CC company to file a fraud claim. I'll keep you posted.

Second, the not-so-great news (but not negative). So many builds have used the Gas-N headers and pipes, and nearly everyone has good or great things to say about the product. It's definitely a more expensive option, but the reviews make it seem worthy. The order was placed in late January, with an expected lead time of 10-12 weeks, depending on material availability. Yesterday made 17 weeks, but there's been several emails back and forth between me and Georgie Arnos, the owner. He's been super professional, honest, and has responded quickly. He tells me the pipes are at the polisher, which is behind on getting orders turned around, so he's telling me that he hopes those will be ready to ship by the second week of June (next week). I was a bit surprised to learn from his last email that he headers are just now being built this week, but should ship by this Friday. I supposed materials have been harder to get than I expected, and it could also be that they've been waiting on components to do final welding. All in all, I knew this would take time and I'm ok to wait given that the typical experience from Gas-N has been excellent.

So, with the last major parts still not in hand to allow me to finish the engine mockup, wiring, plumbing, etc., I'm pretty much on hold. Once I do get those parts (at least the headers), I can't do very much. If the steering rack falls through, I may look at just making the standard FFR rack look better and move on. It's not a deal breaker if that's what I need to do. I do need both in place to complete the engine bay plumbing, tank locations, etc. before I start the tear-down to start painting & coating everything for final assembly.

I'll update as soon as there's something to show.


Build looks feaking awesome pal , bad news on the delays and poor customer service but hope your getting it sorted and back on it soon :cool:

[Straversi]

Love those MMR valve covers. I used their intake manifold and was tempted to get the valve covers. They are a fraction taller than the stock and just wouldn’t fit in a Mk-IV. Can’t wait to see yours come together.
-Steve

[Russwood]

Signs of Life

For those wondering (and for those who aren't) - No, I have not sold the car nor stopped the build - but life has been busier than anticipated and has kept me from the project for a while. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has experienced this.

I last left things with waiting on parts, and I'm pretty much down to only needing wheels & tires at this point.

I punted on the steering rack from AGR. Wound up filing a fraud claim with my CC and they refunded the money. I have no idea what happened to that outfit but suffice it to say I won't be using them nor endorsing them, no matter what I may have shared previously. I'll look closer at the one FFR supplied and see what I can do to "bling" it up a bit.

GasN came through like I knew they would, and the sidepipes are absolutely gorgeous. After I stood and stared at them for a while, I lovingly wrapped them in soft blankets and have them stored in a spare bedroom until it's time to fit them. The headers also arrived with them, and they are solid. I opted for brushed finish on those after counsel from Georgie @ GasN - they can always be polished later if I change my mind. I don't have any pics yet of those, but they will show up as they get installed.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174767&d=1668183103

I did get the valve covers assembled with the spark plug gaskets & sleeves, cover gaskets, cam sensors, etc. from the stock covers and installed on the engine.

Here's the assembly:


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165047&d=1649097612


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165048&d=1649097612


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165053&d=1649097627


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165049&d=1649097612


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=165050&d=1649097627

One thing I didn't get a pic of that needs to be covered for anyone considering these on their build - the high-pressure fuel line from the mechanical fuel pump to the direct inject fuel rail needs to be modified since the billet covers are so much taller than the factory plastic ones. I could not find one on the market to buy, so I did what MMR recommends which is to re-bend the factory one. Since I can obviously replace it if I were to mess it up, I went ahead and attempted it. It's slightly larger than 1/4" but not quite 5/16" (maybe metric?), but the 3/8" bender worked ok. It took several attempts at straightening, bending, changing the angles, etc. until it fit like I wanted, but in the end I'm pretty happy with the result. I couldn't make a new one because there's a mount welded onto the factory line, and the end fittings are not the same as my flaring tool. I'll have to fabricate a spacer for the mount to fit, but that's a minor thing - getting this ever-growing beast to fit is the first priority.

There were two things that I was stressing about (apart from the front pully system fitting - that's for a later post when I get back to it), and that was the dipstick clearing the frame and the now wider engine fitting. It was a bold move to order these with no prior evidence I could find with anyone trying this, so I expected to get a little bloody being the first through that wall.

Good news & bad news. Good news: the dipstick just clears. Couldn't have been a fraction of an inch farther back or it would hit the footbox. I'll get a picture of that and share it in a future post.

Bad news (really not that bad actually) - the driver side valve cover is touching the side of the footbox sheet metal. It's tight - really tight, but it fits (sortof) and is sitting down into the motor mounts. I had a blanket over the covers when I test fit the engine back into the car, and it got stuck between the valve cover and the footbox. I've got it sitting there for now, but the next thing I've got to get done is to make a modification to the side of the footbox to give the engine some flex room. I've looked it over and it appears that there's some room to gain, but it will take notching the front steel plate of the foot box on the engine side, and then making some aluminum panels to close it off. I'll document that modification once I get it perfected. The passenger side is clear and has plenty of room.

Anyway, I think I proved the concept is possible, at least for now. Here's a pic of the engine back in the car with the new covers:


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174764&d=1668183021

My next task will definitely be the modification to get the valve cover to clear, then I will test fit the headers so I can finish the wiring to the O2 sensors, which is about the last pre-wire thing to finish on the body wiring. I still need to rebuild the engine harness to try to hide as much of it as I can, and the valve covers and headers were a big piece needed to start that in earnest. After that I'll get the steering rack installed so the power steering tank can be located and plumbed, then the front pulley system needs to be reinstalled and finalized since there's still a concern with the steering shaft clearing the alternator. Once that is in place, the overflow coolant tank needs to be located so the coolant lines can be fabricated/plumbed.

That's about all for now. With weather cooling off and my schedule hopefully slowing, I hope to get some weekends in the shop to get the build to the point where it can be torn back down and start sending things for painting/coating. Lots to do.

Last thing - As I was driving into work this morning, I saw a FFR semi-truck headed south on I-35 through OKC, so someone is getting their kit delivered soon! Congrats to them!

[Russwood]

Love those MMR valve covers. I used their intake manifold and was tempted to get the valve covers. They are a fraction taller than the stock and just wouldn’t fit in a Mk-IV. Can’t wait to see yours come together.
-Steve

Oh, they are for sure taller - and wider, which is something to say given the Coyote is already so wide with those huge heads. Will take a mod to the DS footbox to get clearance but the PS is ok. I kept thinking I had made a huge mistake, but it looks like it may work out. I just absolutely hate the stock plastic covers and with the Gen 3 there aren't many dress up parts yet. I still have to figure out a way to make the stock intake look better, but I may opt to go with MMR's later.