Body Work Noob

[MyBucketList]

Happy to say my MK4 kit finally arrived... not to imply it was late because it was not... just anxiously anticipated after placing the order back in May.

Managed to get the inventory done with my son this past weekend and am anxious to settle up with FFR for what I don't have enough of... and what they shipped too much of.

Unfortunately, supply chain shortage created a pretty decent size Parts Outstanding List which included many of the critical suspension parts to prevent really get going on the chassis build. So, I have done a bit of a pivot and have already started with the body before I remove it from the chassis. My hope is to use the Michigan Winter to smooth, gap, contour, fill, and prime her so she looks like a beautiful gray bullet by the Spring. Then I can put the primed body on the body buck my son and I built with the FFR plans and start going after the chassis. Feels like a good plan anyway. Managed to already knock down the mold seems without too much difficulty (though a lot of red dust) thanks to a new air compressor and tools. Will start gaping the the doors, hood, and truck in the coming week. Thanks to the FFR videos on body work, I feel pretty confident I can manage to do some of the basic early work correctly. I am concerned about being a first time user of body filler as well as good techniques for sanding a vehicle that has no straight lines. If anyone out there in Forumland has great advise or could direct me to some good videos or literature that helped them... I would greatly appreciate the nudge. I guess I could learn to use the forum search function as well, but I'm going to claim being a rookie for now and learn as I go. :o

First time attaching images... hope I'm doing this right.

Note: Hats off to Stewart Transport. Did an awesome job. Thanks to Mark for getting in and out of a tight neighborhood with a huge truck and achieving an almost perfect delivery (Mother Nature was the only hiccup).

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Greg

[Otee453]

I just finished my body & paint. I’m reluctant to answer your post because I’m not anywhere close to being an authority, but I can tell you my experience and what I learned.

Most people essentially finish the car with all the lights, windshield and accessories fitted prior to starting the bodywork. I suppose lights and such can be fitted without wiring hooked up. The windshield could probably be installed. Rollbar also.
Sidepipes need installed and body openings adjusted/enlarged. That will be an issue without your engine properly installed.

I just wonder if your looking at more hassle trying to do the body first.

I found that the best commercially available sanding blocks were the soft-sanders. The durablocks kit was virtually worthless... too rigid. I also used the ultra flex Linearblocks (be certain to get the ultra flex). They are acrylic and worked very well for the less aggressive curves.

Best tip I can add that’s not already discussed extensively on the forum regarding body filler is PINHOLES. Mix your filler properly and don’t add too much hardener (most fillers call for 2% hardener... that’s not much). When you think you have your bodywork done or near done, inspect every millimeter of the car, particularly any filler, with a magnifying glass. Press glazing body filler into the pinholes with a razor blade. Any pinholes that you don’t fix or find will show up like a sore thumb when you shoot the grey stuff (polyester & primers). You can still fix them when you shoot primer (and guaranteed you will still find some) but it’s so much easier to fix them before shooting primers.

Last thing... body work and paint is a HUGE undertaking. I was lucky that I had a local pro (who does these cars almost exclusively) inspect my work and advise me. Paying to have it done professionally is not just paying for the work, but also paying for their knowledge and experience that you can never duplicate by watching YouTube and reading forums. Read EVERYTHING you can on this forum about bodywork. There is a lot of info available.

[edwardb]

Congratulations on your kit delivery. Unless you have the body mounted on the frame with all the finished panels, etc. you can't finish the body to the level you're describing. Especially things like gapping doors, hood, trunk, etc. I know of at least one body shop (Whitby in NC) that has a frame they use as a fixture and can do it this way. But for the home DIY job, obviously not an option. You need the assembled chassis to fit your body and do the subsequent fitting. So no, I don't think that's a good plan. You're liable to be very disappointed with the results. Each one fits just a little differently. Don't be fooled because the body is mounted for shipment. That may/may not be the final location when finished.

I get you have a lot of POL (Parts Order List) items. That's the way the kits are being delivered these days for reasons discussed multiple times. But unless you're a very fast builder, there's a whole lot of things you can do and make continuous progress. Starting with drilling panels, brake lines, fuel lines, wiring, building your instrument panel, lots of things on the list. As you're doing those, the parts will start arriving.

BTW, where in Michigan are you located?

[MyBucketList]

Great feedback. I guess perhaps I am too anxious and overconfident in my abilities. That was good gut check.

Will take the time to read as much as I can on the body work before I get there. I do have a source who used to work at an autobody shop as well. He has never done one of these, but he did mention their shop doing an Avante (which I believe he said was a fiberglass body). He might be good source of advice when I do get to that point.

So... I guess this week I'll start planning to get the body to the buck and going after the chassis as recommended. That will make my son happier. He can help with mechanicals much better than body stuff. :D

To edwardb... I'm located just South of Holland over on the "West Coast" of Michigan. Saw snow in the air this morning. Winter is coming. :(

[edwardb]

To edwardb... I'm located just South of Holland over on the "West Coast" of Michigan. Saw snow in the air this morning. Winter is coming. :(

Nice part of the state. Cold temps starting here in the SE but no snow forecast. Yet. Took an extended fall color cruise in the Coupe with my bride yesterday and it was really nice. But those days are ending I'm afraid. I've had multiple experiences with the Michigan title and licensing process when you get to that point. Not too bad but several steps. Good luck with your build.

[MyBucketList]

Quick update... body is off and moved to the buck to sit. Moved to that chassis based on great advise above.

Due to inventory shortages, started on Pedal Box this weekend. Installed a Whitby Power Brake kit as well... which moved me "off manual" a bit. Not too problematic except for destroying 4 - 2 1/2 bi metal hole saws while trying to cut through the Willwood mounting bracket. That plate fought us every inch of the way, but in end we won. Everything cleanup and snugged in place. Not happy with the brake pedal position at the moment, but my guess is that is pretty easy to resolve. If I can't find ideas on the forum, I'll reach out to Whitby directly. The install instructions from Whitby did not seem to address pedal height adjustment.. that I saw anyway.

You might also see in the image that I am going to run a hydraulic clutch. Hence, the cylinder mounting area of the pedal box is pretty empty... at least until I get to the point of running fluid lines.

My son and I also did out first panels this weekend. Pretty straight forward. Mark... drill panel... wipe... scrub to rough surface... coat (spray on bedliner)... add silicone... drill frame... rivet. Rinse and repeat. :)

Next weekend we will likely tackle some brake hard lines. Gonna take that slow a try not to kink any. Wish me luck.
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