Gas Tank install

[Doug er]

I'm building a Roadster MKIV and just finished installing the in-tank fuel pump and the sender for the gas gauge. I also have the filler tube installed. My issue is the straps, they hit the bottom of the vertical 3/4" tube prior to swinging into place. (They are just past pointing straight down) Are we suppose to force/bend these straps around the 3/4" tubes? Is it possible that I have the wrong straps? FF special ordered them from Ford for me because the tank didn't come with the straps. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Doug S.

[egchewy79]

Any pics? I do remember needing to massage the straps a bit to fit. Longer bolts helped as well

[edwardb]

Pretty unlikely you have the wrong straps. The last couple of sets I received had to be bent around. But I'm not exactly understanding your issue. Yes, pictures would help. BTW -- You did flatten the rim around the edge of the tank per the manual? That will cause the tank to not fit properly. Also, pretty common to need longer bolts for the front attachment. You'll have a nearly impossible job starting the bolts with what's provided.

Also, for the record, you'll get probably better responses posting in the regular Roadster forum. Factory Five will very occasionally post here. But it's not something that's actively monitored if that's what you were expecting from them. Just the way it is...

[Doug er]

Thank you both for your help. Yes, the tank lip is slightly bent up where the straps go. 3 of 4 were factory bent the last one I bent. My hangers are not even close to where the bolts will fit. The main issue I see is the drivers side has a rivet right where the strap meets the vertical 3/4" tube which is where it will be bent. I'll attempt to add a picture.3[/ATTACH]155123155125155124155126

Sorry the pictures are not right side up. I'll strive to do better. Again, thank for all the help, it is appreciated.

Doug S.

[edwardb]

Personally, I don't think it's a problem to bend to fit around the tank just like you have them. I don't recall where the rivets were on the ones I've done. But there weren't any issues. If they had been like that (may have been) I would have bent them anyway. That rivet isn't going anywhere.

Point of clarification: The flanges on the tank should be bent flat in the areas of the straps. Check the manual. You should see that's what's described. You want the flange to sit flat against the plastic bumpers. Not bent up so only the edge contacts the plastic. The tank won't install properly that way.

[Doug er]

EdwardB, Thanks I'll make sure I bend the tank flanges all the way up. OK, I guess I'll do just that and bend them over the 3/4" down tubes and over the tank at the same time. Wish me well!!! Also, I will try the regular roadster forum for future questions. I was thinking it was just for building posts because that is what I've been reading. Speaking of that, thank you for your build thread it is inspiring and greatly helpful in making my decision to attempt this adventure.

Thank you for you time, it is appreciated.

Doug S.

[edwardb]

EdwardB, Thanks I'll make sure I bend the tank flanges all the way up...

Maybe this is what you mean, but just to make sure... the tank flanges have to be flat. Not bent. So the flange is flat all the way around. The factory puts a bend in the flange at the locations where the straps go past the tank. These need to be straightened so the flange is the same all the way around. As I mentioned before, for this installation the flange goes against the plastic bumpers on the bottom of the chassis mounts. You want the flat of the flange on the bumper. Not the bent section as it comes from the factory. Hopefully you're following the gas tank instructions in the build manual. It's described in the build manual ("At the locations on the tank where the tank straps come near the tank, use a pair of pliers and bend the bent parts flat.") and there's a picture of the tank going into the chassis. But admit it's a little hard to see exactly what they're describing.

[Doug er]

EdwardB, thanks for being persistent.....I was confused and thought I needed to bend the flange up where the straps were. After reading your last post I reviewed everything and realized that I was wrong, again....And the straps actually don't hit the 3/4" down tube, due to the tank. Thank you for the help.

Now I have another issue with the tank. 155266155267

These pictures show the vertical frame hitting the gas tank on both the front and rear. This is on the passenger side. I'm wondering if I should gently dent the tank where they are hitting so I can seat the tank properly. Maybe grind down the 3/4" vertical posts? I don't like either idea. Thoughts?

Thank you for your help,
Doug S.

[GWL]

These pictures show the vertical frame hitting the gas tank on both the front and rear. This is on the passenger side. I'm wondering if I should gently dent the tank where they are hitting so I can seat the tank properly. Maybe grind down the 3/4" vertical posts? I don't like either idea. Thoughts?

Thank you for your help,
Doug S.

I've got a very early MK IV and had the same problem. I did a bit of both, 2 x 4 and moved the 3/4" tube a bit and did some grinding/cutting. The square plastic piece would not fit so I ended up using some neoprene to protect the tank and tightened it up so the loose neoprene would stay in place. I did not indent the tank for fear of causing a leak.

George

[JohnK]

You should be able to push the 3/4 tube forward enough so that it's sitting on the flat flange of the tank. It's a pretty long unsupported piece so it won't take much force to position it properly. I would definitely not recommend denting the tank, as you might inadvertently puncture it or pop a weld at the seam.

[edwardb]

Agree with JohnK. That 3/4" thinwall tubing is pretty easy to "reposition." I'm usually not a fan of getting out the hammer. But in this case a couple bumps with a dead blow hammer and that tubing will move enough to properly engage the flange. Don't do anything to the tank. Not necessary.

[egchewy79]

you'll probably be just fine once you tighten up the bolts. I tightened to the point where the plastic end caps were just starting to deform a bit. If you wanted to really move the 3/4" tubes, another option could be putting a ratchet strap to the forward tube, connecting it to somewhere on the frame in front of it, and flexing the support a bit while you tighten your tank strap bolts.

[Doug er]

Thank you all, I looked again and tried using a strap to pull the 3/4" vertical tube forward with little success. I carefully pried between the tank and the 3/4" vertical tube and seem to get it to move more. I'll need a second pair of hands to tighten the bolt while pulling the strap when it is time. I believe it will be OK.. Thank you all, I'm thankful for this forum and the expertise that comes with it.

[TriPower]

I have broken two straps in 53000 miles. I did not build it, but bought it at 3800 miles. The front bolt was replaced with a slightly longer bolt I believe. This bolt was not treaded all the was to the head and I found I could push the tank upward about 1/16 of an inch once I installed a new strap. This strap broke at about 5000 miles.

The next failure was due to the flange of the tank contacting the strap on the back of the tank, similar to one of your photos. This failure happened at about 48000 miles. I had a thicker strap made out of SS and ground the flange to create clearance. I now run with plumbers metal hanging straps, if I need to make a repair again.

Lee

[Doug er]

Lee, thanks for your input. The longer bolt I used was not threaded all the way to the head. I'll replace it when mounting the tank for the last time. (After the trunk aluminum is installed.)

Thank you all for your advise it is all valuable. I did manage to bend the 3/4" vertical tube about a 1/16" towards the front of the car, I believe with someone holding a pry bar while I tighten the bolt, it will be OK.

Thank you!!

Doug S.

[PhilO]

Just watched a youtube video from i.e.427 describing the same issue on a roadster he is working on. He just "massaged" the front vertical tube with a hammer towards the front of the car a bit to widen the distance and allow the tank to fit.

I don't see why that couldn't work for you and be alot less work than cutting and grinding or denting.