Clutch/transmission issue [Archive]

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cfriedman67

10-31-2021, 10:40 AM

Just got my car titled last week and was driving fine yesterday. New Coyote gen 3 and New TKO 600 with clutch cable. This morning when I wentto start it the pedal felt much harder to press on to the point where the engine almost wouldn’t start because I couldn’t depress th pedal far enough. Got the engine to start but I can’t get it into any gears. Any thoughts on what the issue is? Before this the clutch shifted smoothly in all gears. Maybe 50 miles in total driven.

Thanks
Craig

GTBradley

10-31-2021, 11:30 AM

My clutch cable got very stiff over a short amount of time. Then I remembered the long past days of motocross and how we used to drip oil into the brake and clutch cable sheaths. I pulled the clutch cable out of the roadster and dripped oil through it over the coarse of a day and it worked! Very smooth and easy to actuate after that.

cfriedman67

10-31-2021, 11:38 AM

So stiff that you couldn’t get into hear? Either way I will try that.

cfriedman67

10-31-2021, 01:00 PM

GTBradley that was not the problem. Thanks though.

cob427sc

10-31-2021, 01:31 PM

GTBradley

10-31-2021, 02:12 PM

My guess it has something to do with the clutch fork/throw out bearing. Either the fork has come off its pivot point or somehow the bearing is no longer in the fork. Keep us informed what you come up with.
Totally agree, pull the cover at the transmission and try to get some pictures. Check the routing of the cable too.

johnnybgoode

10-31-2021, 02:29 PM

Could the sheath have melted to the cable if it was too close to the header? Just a thought of something easy to check. Scott

cfriedman67

10-31-2021, 04:05 PM

It seems like the fork came off the pivot. I loosened the cable and push the fork in and seemed to have done it. The clutch know feels nice. How do I avoid that from happening I’m the future?

edwardb

10-31-2021, 05:08 PM

It seems like the fork came off the pivot. I loosened the cable and push the fork in and seemed to have done it. The clutch know feels nice. How do I avoid that from happening I’m the future?

Shouldn't come off. Are the fingers on the pivot end of the clutch arm under the pivot ball? Positive the TOB is also installed correctly? Right orientation and fingers in the right places? It's not hard to get either wrong.

cfriedman67

10-31-2021, 09:44 PM

edwardb

11-01-2021, 05:37 AM

155099

Thanks for the advice. Here’s the best picture I could get without pulling things apart. The day before I drove the car for about 40-50 miles with no issues. Clutch shifted beautifully with no issues. If either the clutch fork or TOB was installed incorrectly would it be possible to have had trouble free driving and shifting the day before?

These are pictures I've had on file for a long time showing the correct orientation and installation of the TOB. Yours looks correct based on the picture you posted. Goes back to the clutch arm coming off the pivot. The fingers that need to be under the pivot are visible in this pic. Hard to imagine it would go together without those being in the proper place. Plus it's pretty obvious what they are when assembled. So kind of doubt that's the issue either. But have to ask since that's where it apparently failed. I can't explain why it would work OK for awhile and then come loose. But in my experience (!!!) problems don't typically heal themselves. It shouldn't have come loose and you need to figure out why.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/.highres/T536.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/620f87db-89b1-405d-aa3a-a69d2f6be87a/p/eb34d062-9b18-4c5b-a326-09bcba78b69d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/.highres/T535.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/620f87db-89b1-405d-aa3a-a69d2f6be87a/p/745fbebd-c306-4303-94aa-e4aca5fb112d)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/.highres/T534.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/620f87db-89b1-405d-aa3a-a69d2f6be87a/p/8bde171f-a48f-4140-b94a-61f583275e6c)

Bob 5.0

11-01-2021, 06:48 AM

Did you add an extension on your clutch fork? If so make sure your cable is pulling perpendicular to the clutch fork and not pulling out ward on the pivot!! Just a thought!!

cfriedman67

11-01-2021, 10:07 AM

I do have one from Mike Forte. The block that that the clutch cable runs though and attaches to the clutch fork extender is parallel to the four inch round tubes. If that makes sense.

cfriedman67

11-01-2021, 12:51 PM

Talked it though with Mike Forte and I m comfortable in the fact that I did not have the clutch cable tightened enough. Towards the end of the drive there was slight vibration in the clutch pedal (chatter) and I think it was because the clutch cable either stretched slightly or was just not tight enough. I remember when I was putting the car together (first start etc..) that when he clutch cable was not adjusted and loose the clutch pedal also vibrated around but when tightened correctly it did not vibrate at all. I'm going to assume that the issue is solved.

J R Jones

11-01-2021, 01:11 PM

c, I expect that Mike described an amount of free-play in the clutch linkage so that you do not have a constant load on the TOB.
Cables do not, as they say, "stretch" or you would be condemned to adjustments until the cable became too long.
What actually happens is wear. If you have bends in the cable, the core rubs the plastic liner on the inside of the bends and gets loose. Eventually the core seats, the cable takes a shape-set and the wear / adjustment becomes less frequent. Hydraulics are an alternative.
jim

cfriedman67

11-01-2021, 01:17 PM

Hi Jim,
Stretch was my word not his. Appreciate the explanation. Hopefully not to many more adjustments.

Craig