Stainless Steel Bed With Wood Floor?

[edwardb]

Getting to the part of my build where I'm starting to fit and mount body parts, the truck bed, etc. The kit comes with a big sheet of SS over the entire bed area as everyone knows. I ordered the optional wood bed kit. But based on availability, Factory Five later changed my order to the Smokey Road Rod Shop extruded aluminum boards. Which I really like. But I'm confused about the installation and wondered what others are doing.

The build manual references the SS floor. But seemingly in the context of it being the only thing used. There's also no mention of how to attach it. It's heavy for sure but still needs to be attached or it's going to rattle.

When the build manual describes the optional wood floor, it appears they're installing it without the SS floor. I know that's how traditional wood floors are installed. But is there any reason why the SS floor can't be left in place? Would add minimal height and make the underside much cleaner. Yes, would add some additional weight. But like most trucks I'm guessing a little extra weight in the back would be a good thing. Plus I'm not necessarily looking for the lightest highest performance final result.

I'm thinking of leaving the SS sheet in place and mounting the cross pieces for the wood (aka aluminum) bed kit on top, with attachments through both into the frame. Then mount the slats in the cross pieces per the instructions using the provided T-bolts and screws.

Thoughts?

[Robodent]

I installed the stainless sheet and cut a hole in the battery area to access it if needed. I layed the cross tracks down on the bed floor then installed the the ss strips which gave me the location of the cross member mounts .
However my fuel sending unit went out the float fell off and I had to replace it. Now do I drop the gas tank or R&I the bed floor? I removed the bed floor and this time I did not install the big SS sheet it leaning up against the wall in my garage .
I guess either way is ok. Yes cleaner looking from the bottom for sure. I just didn’t put it back in cause it was big awkward to reinstall with the truck all built and painted . I’m looking down the road it’s much easier to get back into anything that’s underneath it by removing the aluminum bed floor only. Rob.

[Pat Landymore]

I have the wooden floor in mine without the stainless. I used cross straps of 3/16” x 1” flat bar to tie the stainless strips to. And then wood screws fired upwards through holes drilled in the ends of the straps to make it all a bit more rigid. Have luggage catches at the rear and two over centering hold downs at the front to keep it from banging around.

I’ll give myself full points for access as I can have it out in around 1 minute. My solution to holding it down is a bit ugly even in my eyes but very practical. Would definitely do it this way again but execute differently…

My 5 cents for what they’re worth.

Cheers!

[VIRGIN MIKE]

My solution, wood will be held by rails; tacked welded bed together,
copper pipe bonds bed to sides, fab brass end pieces to finish

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[edwardb]

Thanks for the input guys. Found a set of instructions on Factory Five's instruction website for the aluminum bed option. Right at the top of the first page its says "The stainless-steel bed floor is not used with the aluminum bed kit." Hmm. Mocking things up right now. Just not sure why not to use it. Still leaning towards leaving the SS floor in. I'm not too worried about access from the top, e.g. battery, tank, etc. Guess I'm spoiled with the lift.

[RuffShod]

I am going to use my sheet of stainless, but I feel like it is an inch too long.

Has anybody cut theirs?

[Robodent]

I did not have to cut mine. The sheet tucks under the rear of the cab. Maybe that’s where your getting the inch from. Rob

[FFinisher]

I have not done aluminum. I have used the stainless floor and had it painted and put slats on it. (looked pretty cool I thought.), I have used the stainless floor and put wood on top of it, I have done wood without the stainless floor and used oak slats side ways. If I were doing it I would use the stainless floor, mount it to the chassis, then mount the aluminum floor to it. But we all know there are many ways to accomplish the same thing.

[edwardb]

I did not have to cut mine. The sheet tucks under the rear of the cab. Maybe that’s where your getting the inch from. Rob

That was the first thing I thought of. Mine fit the bed perfectly. I riveted it to the frame and installed the aluminum wood set over it.

[RuffShod]

My sheet of stainless seems wider than the throat of the cab in the back. Plus.....I want to be able to take it out.

[VIRGIN MIKE]

160595 160596

Tack welded stainless bed box together (floor, sides and front); trimmed sides to about 1 ½ inches below floor and cut a hole for battery access -used cut off disk on edge grinder, much easier than sawing - used aircraft rails between wood for securing load and with sling (shown) can easily lift out with engine hoist. bed is secured to truck by slotted copper pipe (refrigeration pipe from Granger- 1 ten foot length cut in half). Finished end pieces are brass, made from a strip of salvaged brass, formed by bending around a socket using a vise and hammer and professionally welded. rails screw into threaded bed holes. used foam insulation strips on frame. Hardest part of the project was cutting the slot in the pipe. - used a skil saw
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[Namrups]

Cannot view your attachments.

[VIRGIN MIKE]

fixed