View Full Version : Cockpit Floor Intall Question
SirAustin
11-09-2011, 12:38 PM
I am looking at pictures online of peoples cockpit floor panel installs and everyone has a x pattern of rivets.
My question of the day (I dislike asking so many questions) is it appears that if I used this pattern I would be riveting into nothing in some areas?
5924
And yes this is a harsh photoshop example of where the rivets are put.
Anyone have photos of their mk4 rivet layout for the cockpit floor panels? And how many drill into the main frame tube?
Thanks!
bil1024
11-09-2011, 12:44 PM
I riveted exactly where your pattern is
the earlier cars didn't have the plate, they actually had cross braces
David Hodgkins
11-09-2011, 12:45 PM
First of all, ask all the questions you like!
The floor of the MKIV is different from previous versions. There is a big plate there now instead of the x-pattern 3/4" tubing that used to be there. I'll try to dig up a pic of my frame for you.
HTH,
:)
David Hodgkins
11-09-2011, 12:51 PM
Here's a bad pic, but in it you can make out the floor cross members. They are behind the footbox, which is in the front of this photo.
http://ffroadster.com/images/aluminumpanels/AluminumPanel033.jpg
:)
PaulW
11-09-2011, 01:19 PM
I have a Mark 4 and although I did use an "X" pattern it was within the plate area only.
SirAustin
11-09-2011, 01:27 PM
Thanks for the responses! I was confused because I was looking at someone’s Mk4 build thread and they had used a large x pattern which I was having a hard time understanding!
Thanks for the image David, I was picturing that it must have been that way now I can visually have a reference.
Going with what Paul said and keeping with not drilling into the main tube here is my plan of attack.
5925
I was also thinking for overkill I could do both and X and Square pattern like this...
5926
If no one says to go with the overkill I will stick with Pauls suggestion.
Thanks again for the advice!
jlfernan
11-09-2011, 03:00 PM
First photo with just the X will be plenty.
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/9124/jorge.jpg (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/private.php?do=newpm&u=111)
David Hodgkins
11-09-2011, 03:22 PM
BTW you ARE putting Silicone between the frame and aluminum, right? I ran a bead of it along the line of holes just prior to putting the panel in and then cleco'd the outer holes to hold it in place, then riveted. That does a good job of keeping moisture out of the frame tubes. It might be a good idea to also put it anywhare you have large areas over a plate, like the area you've shown. It can keep the panel from rattling. Also, a good sound deadener before carpet helps even more...
:)
SirAustin
11-09-2011, 03:46 PM
I am clecoing everything on first then will put silicon on for the final install.
Stay clear of the main round tube though?
David Hodgkins
11-09-2011, 03:55 PM
I am clecoing everything on first then will put silicon on for the final install.
Stay clear of the main round tube though?
I don't think you will drill into the 4" round tube, just the floor and tranny tunnel.
Another suggestion would be to drill and cleco to the tunnel diagonals 1st then the floor. I had a gap between the tunnel and the panel on one side because I did the floor 1st. Don't be afraid to do a little "massaging" to get the panel where you want. You might also want to put the tranny tunnel top piece on and drill it at the same time as the floor/tranny side panel so you don't end up drilling twice (ask me how I know). :(
Thinking back, I believe the only holes I drilled in the 4" tubes were for the fuel lines. I ran the rear brake line down the tranny tunnel, which is open to debate. My front and rear lines are independant so I figured if the tranny blows and severs a line (highly unlikely, but theoretically possible) I would still have front brakes. (Sorry for the tangent)
HTH,
:)
SirAustin
11-09-2011, 04:04 PM
Thanks David! You are a great resource! Driver side panel seems to fit prefect the passenger side on the other hand.. Fits fine just needs some slight trimming by the tranny tunnel one side is higher then the other. Mocked very thing up and it appears that's all that is needed.
Thanks again for all the awesome advice!!!
Richard Oben
11-09-2011, 06:43 PM
Other than the top of the tunnel no rivets go in the tunnel from the floors. There is supposed to be a gap at the diagonal braces on the tunnel.
On the floor, drill one line on the rear one on the front, one on the outside WITH THE UNDER DOOR PANELS and one line on the front and rear of the plate with the X in the middle. 2 inch spacing will be fine. JMHO, Richard.
SirAustin
11-09-2011, 11:19 PM
Richard I thank you! You saved me from drilling my holes for the under door panels off. I even had them lined up and center punched before work was going to drill them today but didnt have time. Glad I didnt!
Thanks again for everyone who has helped, I hope this thread serves well for others with questions on this step of the build.
E-Ticket Ride
11-11-2011, 12:51 PM
More information is always good.
My Mk IV is due for completion 9and hopefully pick-up) tomorrow.
A little trip across the country, then my turn to start drilling!
Bumping up an old thread with a question.
Going with what Paul said and keeping with not drilling into the main tube here is my plan of attack.
5925
If you drill through this metal plate, won't you see the back of the rivet from underneath the car? Is that okay and is there a risk of water coming up through there?
For reference, this is what the back of the rivet looks like:
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Rivet-Install-8-768x390.png
Thanks.
Zee
GTBradley
12-09-2022, 01:35 PM
Man, you know how to dig up the past!:) Yes, you do see the unsightly rivets if the car is on a lift, but I don't have any trouble with water. I used too many by using the standard pattern and wish I'd thought more about placement, but it is only the bottom side of the car, so...
JohnK
12-09-2022, 01:38 PM
When I installed my floors, I didn't put any rivets into the plate in the middle of the floor. I laid a bead of silicone on the 2" frame tubes and a generous amount of silicone on the plate, and then riveted only the 2" frame members. I set a large heavy weight on the center of the floor over the plate for 24 hours to let the silicone cure. I'm using the Breeze seat bases, so when I'm ready to install the seats I'll locate the seat bases and drill the holes through that plate, cleco, and then install rivets from the bottom of the car. This way, when you look at the floor from under the car you see rivet heads and not the ***-end of the rivets. Probably overkill, but I have a lift so it's fairly easy to do and the ugly end of the rivets is hidden between the two halves of the Breeze seat bases.
On the passenger side, I did not drill the plate.
On the driver side, I wasn't paying attention and ended up drilling a line over the plate as well. But I don't want an unsightly look at the bottom.
One option is to rivet from the bottom, but I am wondering if lizard skin + carpet is enough to cover the back if I rivet from the bottom:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=176558&d=1670617561
(Yes, I know I am overthinking it. As I mentioned to others, I am a senior ranking member of the Department of Overthinking and Overplanning).
edwardb
12-09-2022, 03:37 PM
Put me in the camp of no rivets in the seat pan. As referenced by JohnK above. Good beads of silicone, cleco/rivet everywhere else, and place a large weight on the seat pan area overnight. I have a cider block that is just right weight and size. With the seat or seat tracks bolted into place, provides plenty of added mechanical strength. Without those ugly rivet tails.